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  • How to move from dreaming about living in Italy to actually doing it

    PART 152: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's explore how I can change my dream of moving to Italy into a reality. Step 2: What I learned from my students I learned a lot from my students during my 25 years of teaching social studies in Los Angeles. I favored project-based learning over test-driven methods, and my students often enjoyed the sense of accomplishment that came from completing a poster about World War II, a booklet on the history of Rome, or a class presentation on the French Revolution. However, at the beginning of my teaching career, I faced some challenges. Many students would say, "Mr. T, this is too hard! It's too much. I can't do it!" For a 16-year-old, creating a booklet or an extensive informative poster can seem like a monumental task, leading some to give up before they even started. I found myself wondering, "What am I doing wrong?" Eventually, I realized I needed to break projects into smaller, manageable steps so that students could feel a sense of mastery by tackling them bit by bit. Thus, I introduced the concept of "chunking" into my classroom. Instead of announcing at the beginning of class, "Today you will work on your informative poster on the history of Rome!" I switched to a more structured approach: "Today you will use your notes to write six sentences about the beginnings of Rome, including the legend of Romulus and Remus." This particular poster had six written components and three artistic ones. By working on it in the classroom over seven days, my students were able to complete it successfully. Chunking. Establishing a life in Italy can seem impossible, daunting, or confusing. However, if we "chunk" the process into smaller steps, it becomes entirely doable. We navigated these steps on our journey to Italy, sometimes out of order and occasionally backtracking. Here, I will lay them out logically. Step 3: Non-committal first steps The initial steps are exploratory. This means I am conducting research from home, and this phase starts not with Italy, but with self-reflection. Step 4: What am I looking for? The very first step is to reflect on myself and my interests. We initially skipped this step when we moved to Italy, thinking that simply being in the country was enough. However, we later realized we needed to reassess our direction. Let me explain. We initially moved to Puglia, where our friends lived, as it seemed like a logical starting point. We rented an apartment from a friend and stayed there—first for two weeks, then for a summer, and eventually we leased for a year, returning twice a year for 2-3 months each time. While in Puglia, we hadn't really focused on what we were looking for in Italy. Puglia felt comfortable for us since its beach lifestyle was similar to life in Southern California, where we are from. However, it started to feel like we were replicating our California life instead of embarking on something new. A local friend in Puglia pointed this out to us: "I see you guys as more interested in cultural and historical sites than in beach life. I think you should consider moving further north, perhaps to Tuscany, which is closer to the things you are interested in." This comment resonated with us because it was true. We found ourselves more attracted to the hilltop towns of Tuscany and cities like Florence, Siena, Assisi, and Pienza rather than spending our days lounging on the beach. We realized it was essential to take a moment to ask ourselves, "What are we really looking for?" The first step in planning a life in Italy is to determine what I am looking for. This will guide my choices of destinations. Am I interested in culture and history, or do I prefer nature and mountains? Do I enjoy beautiful beaches or vibrant cities? Clarifying my preferences will help me identify the areas in Italy that would suit me best. My interests may evolve and change throughout this journey. After living in Rome for eight years as a student, I desired a city bustling with street life. However, I soon realized that vibrant street life was primarily found in larger cities, which were beyond our budget. Consequently, my desire for bustling streets diminished in importance as other priorities took precedence. From the beginning, I knew I wanted to live in a town where I could walk to get coffee or a meal, but some of our friends preferred places outside of town, in the countryside, because that aligns with their lifestyle. Determining whether I want to live in a town or city versus the countryside is also an important consideration in this process. Step 5: Renting or buying? When we began our experience of living in Italy, we chose to rent a place from a friend. This decision turned out to be fortunate, as we eventually decided to leave Puglia and settle in Tuscany. If we had purchased a property in Puglia, the transition would have been much more complicated. However, we have known others who took the plunge and bought homes in Italy rather than renting. There is no right or wrong choice here. Reflecting on whether to rent or buy a property in Italy is an important, non-committal second step in the process. I spent a significant amount of time exploring real estate websites, looking at both properties for sale and rental listings. After living in Italy and gaining insight into how the market operates, I've realized that connecting with a local, trusted real estate agent makes navigating the rental and home buying process much more manageable. A good agent often has knowledge of rental options that are not widely advertised and is more familiar with the intricacies of the real estate market. If you're uncertain about whether to rent or buy, that's completely fine. We had similar doubts when we first visited Tuscany. We kept both options on the table and maintained an open mindset about what our experience there would reveal. Perhaps keeping both options—renting or buying—open, is a wise next step. Step 6: Limitations If I haven't addressed this before, now is the time to reflect on my limitations. Do I want to live in Italy full-time or part-time? What obstacles might I face with either option? If I choose to live part-time, am I familiar with the regulations of the Schengen zone? If I opt for full-time residency, have I researched the requirements for obtaining residency? This is the moment to do my homework. Initially, we believed we would live in Italy full-time and conducted extensive research on how to make it work. However, we faced numerous obstacles due to our commitments here in California that we couldn't escape. Eventually, we realized that it didn't have to be an all-or-nothing scenario. We could follow the Schengen zone rules while retaining our residency in California, allowing us to stay in Italy for up to 90 days within 180 days. Step 7: Budget To save time, the next step is to create a budget. Whether I am renting or buying, establishing a budget at this stage can be very beneficial. For renting, I need to determine how much I can afford to pay each month. I should also consider the cost of utilities. A trustworthy local realtor can provide valuable information on this. For buying, I need to identify my price range and consider whether I could make an all-cash purchase. Having a budget in mind will help me avoid wasting time exploring cities or areas that are beyond my financial means and may highlight other potential locations that I hadn't previously considered. So, the task is to come up with a budget for what I can afford for housing in Italy. Step 8: Areas or towns that fit my criteria This step is still part of my homework, and I can begin it now, even before visiting Italy. Once I have clarified my interests and worked out a budget, the next step is to identify which areas meet those two criteria. I will come up with three towns or areas to consider. To start, I can explore real estate websites to see which locations fit both my budget and interests. There are several sites available, but I prefer https://www.casa.it/ . Since there isn't an MLS in Italy, I will need to contact individual realtors for properties I am interested in. At this stage, reaching out to individual realtors for more information can provide insight into the real estate market in my chosen areas and help me find a reputable realtor to work with. It's important to remember that a town that seems perfect on paper may not be the right fit for me in reality, so it's essential to keep an open mind. There was a town in Tuscany that I felt confident about: it met our budget, was located in our desired geographical area, and had all the necessary amenities. However, when we visited, we sensed a "vibe" that didn't feel right, and we noticed some shabby areas that I hadn't anticipated. As a result, we decided to remove it from our list. Nevertheless, I'm glad we explored this town because it helped clarify what we were looking for. Step 9: Expat forums This step involves connecting with real people who live in the area I'm interested in to learn about their experiences. By learning from others' experiences, I can save time. Joining expat forums for the town or area is a beneficial next step. Through these forums, I can gain insights into the local amenities, the mindset of the residents, the expat community, local festivals, hiking or sports activities, cultural sites, and more. Step 10: Time to visit! This non-committal micro-step involves planning a vacation of one or two weeks in an area of interest. It's important to select a base town and be open to visiting at least three surrounding towns for comparison. The purpose of this visit is to gain a sense of the town, its people, and the quality of life, as well as to explore the housing options available (both for buying and renting). This step also includes reaching out to real estate agents in advance to schedule visits to properties that are for sale or rent. Even if I am not ready to make a decision yet, gathering information is beneficial. What if I really love a town that fits my budget, but the housing options are subpar? In that case, I can save time and emotional energy by letting go of that option early. Becoming familiar with the town, meeting locals and expats, visiting housing options, and getting a feel for the vibe of the area are all essential parts of this step. Step 11: Start over: re-evaluate After visiting the town or area I am interested in, it's time to start over with a re-evaluation. Experience is the best teacher—this is a lesson I learned from my students. When we approached the social studies unit on the Renaissance, my students seemed disinterested in events that happened so long ago. We took turns reading from their history books, but it was boring for them—and honestly, it was boring for me too. Using a series called "History Alive!", I created a virtual tour of Florence for my classroom. We developed 7-8 stations that small groups of students could visit to complete tasks or gather information. One station focused on "Brunelleschi's Dome," where students stood in a circle, supporting one another to form a dome. This hands-on activity helped them understand the engineering principles behind the dome's construction. At another station, students watched a two-minute video about Michelangelo's Statue of David, followed by a quick drawing activity in their notebooks based on what they had seen. Another station showcased some of the art found in the Uffizi Gallery. By the end of the class period, students had virtually visited the main sites of Florence, and in the days that followed, their interest in the subject grew. History had truly come alive for them. This engaging approach is similar to the process one might experience when discerning the idea of living in Italy. Do I still want to live in Italy full-time, part-time, or has my perspective changed? After experiencing a few towns or areas, has my focus shifted, or do I still want to concentrate on the same location? Has my budget changed? Has my idea of the type of house I am looking for evolved? Am I considering a free-standing home, a condo, a historical property, or a modern one? What other needs have emerged? These are all questions worth considering now that I have some experience, which will provide me with a clearer idea of what I am looking for. Step 12: Stay in my chosen area for 1-3 months I am ready to take a bigger step, which will feel natural after I have gone through the previous stages. Once I identify an area that might suit me, I plan to visit and stay there for 1 to 3 months. During this time, I will make an effort to get to know the locals and become familiar with the day-to-day aspects of living there over a more extended period. The dynamics of living in a town are entirely different from vacationing there. Staying for an extended period will clarify whether the amenities of the town will work for me. For example, since we go to the gym every day, we want to ensure that our home is no more than 15 minutes away from a gym. When we travel, we often skip the gym, don't cook, and don't consider access to medical care, supermarkets, or long-term parking. All these factors come to the surface when one stays in one place for at least a month. Will this town work for me? Could it feel like home? Does it have what I am looking for? Only the experience of living there for 1 to 3 months will provide the answers to these questions. Step 13: Ready for the next step If I have clarity about where I want to live, and it aligns with my interests and budget, then it's time to take the next step. I will find a trustworthy realtor and discuss options for renting a place for 12 months or purchasing a property. Even if I am a non-resident and can only stay in Italy for 3 months at a time, having a stable place for an extended period allows me to start establishing a life there. I'll be able to bring items over and leave them in Italy, allowing me to immerse myself in the daily life I have longed for. This will be a natural progression rather than a leap, as it is merely the result of the steps and experiences I have had up to this point. Will I always be a part-time resident, or will I eventually live in Italy full-time? It's okay not to know the answer to that question. The experience will reveal the path. Step 13: Trusting my experience No one can dictate the kind of life, town, or house that I should prefer in Italy. While others, especially expats, may offer suggestions and advice, I need to find a situation that aligns with who I am and what I desire. Breaking down the decision to live in Italy into "chunks" makes it manageable and builds on my personal experiences. Trusting my own experiences is how I know I am making the right decision. Step 14: Summary Let's summarize the steps to this journey towards a life in Italy: Discernment: What am I looking for? Deciding whether to rent or buy (or being open to both) Limitations: Live in Italy full or part-time? My budget? Which towns fit my criteria? Expat forums Short visit Re-evaluate my criteria More extended visit: 1-3 months Sign a 12-month lease or buy More next time. If you have enjoyed reading about our life in Italy, my memoir goes deeper into where it began. Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy — the memoir of finding our way through the towns, food, and people of the deep south. "This book elevated my trip. Well written and fun." — Amazon reviewer https://a.co/d/0340l3Ak

  • Living in an Italian Town Without a Train Station

    PART 156: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then return again in the Spring, and spend the rest of the time in California (as I explained in a previous blog, we only live in Italy for part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, we will explore whether living in an Italian town without a train station is a viable option. Step 2: When deciding where to live in Italy, transportation was a major factor. Should we choose a location near a train station, or would we feel comfortable driving? Once we moved to Italy, would we have a car, and if so, would we buy, rent, or lease it? How reliant did we want to be on public transportation, and how much would we depend on a car? These were all important questions to consider as we evaluated our options for living in Italy. Step 3: Beginning in Puglia and transportation As many followers of this blog are aware, we started our journey by living in Puglia. We were situated in a smaller town about a half-hour drive from Lecce, a major city well connected to Rome and other cities by train. Although we didn’t need a car to get from Rome’s airport to our home in Puglia, we quickly learned that having one was essential to truly experience the region. Whether it was seeing the thousand-year-old mosaic floor in Otranto’s cathedral, attending a festa in a hilltop village, or visiting friends who lived in the countryside, a car turned out to be our lifeline. During our time in Puglia, we got comfortable with driving and found some affordable car rental and leasing options (see our blog about having a car in Italy: link). Although our town in Puglia has a local train station that connects to Lecce, we never used it. We relied on our car for most travel, except for our arrival (from Rome to Lecce) and our departure for California (from Lecce to Rome). Step 4: Next step: Tuscany and transportation Before buying in Tuscany, we’d visited often enough to know that exploring areas like the Val d’Orcia without a car is nearly impossible. Cities like Florence or Siena don’t require driving—if anything, it’s a headache—but our hearts were in the smaller towns: Pienza, Montepulciano, San Quirico, Montalcino. We wanted to wind our way through the rolling hills, vineyards, and medieval villages that buses and trains can’t easily reach. By the time we began house hunting in Tuscany, we were completely comfortable with the idea of driving here. Even living near a train station wouldn’t have changed the fact that most of what we wanted to see would require a car. Step 5: Our Decision: Living Near a Train Station or Not? I understand the appeal of living along a major train route, as it offers easy access for travel, simpler visits from friends, and the option to avoid renting a car. We explored various towns with train stations in the areas we were interested in, but either we didn't like the towns or the housing options were outside of our budget. However, when we removed the requirement for a train station from our housing search, the possibilities expanded significantly. Ultimately, we chose the Monte Amiata area in Tuscany, where the nearest train station, Grosseto, is about 45 minutes away. This area appeals to us due to its proximity to cultural and historical sites, easy access to the Val d'Orcia, and opportunities for an active lifestyle, including hiking, cycling, skiing, and a well-equipped gym. Additionally, the housing options were within our budget parameters. In terms of our town itself, everything we need—shops, supermarkets, a post office, and historical landmarks—is within walking distance from our home. Still, for adventures beyond our immediate surroundings, having a car is essential. Step 6: Regrets? Do we have any regrets about not living near a train station in Italy? It's not that we oppose the idea of living near a train station; it simply never aligned with the towns we were interested in or could afford. Once we found our home in Monte Amiata, we knew it was the right choice for us. Our time in Puglia had already made driving feel natural, so the transition was seamless. We have no regrets at all. Step 7: Should you live in a town without a train station? What works for one person may not work for another, so I can't say whether someone should live in a town in Italy without a train station. If fear of driving is preventing someone from exploring this option, I recommend practicing driving abroad to overcome that fear. If the cost of owning a car in Italy is a concern, consider leasing or long-term rental options. If someone absolutely wants to live in a town along a train route, it’s important to find a town or city that has a train station and also meets their budget and personal criteria. For some individuals, living near a train route is essential, while for others, it is less critical. We have discovered that by letting go of the need for a train station, we have opened ourselves up to many more options, especially in Tuscany, where we are settling down. Insights: Whether or not to live along a train route in Italy depends on personal priorities: budget, lifestyle, travel habits. Our experience is just one example, but I hope it’s helpful for anyone weighing the options. More next time. If you have enjoyed reading about our life in Italy, my memoir goes deeper into where it began. Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy — the memoir of finding our way through the towns, food, and people of the deep south. "This book elevated my trip. Well written and fun." — Amazon reviewer https://a.co/d/0340l3Ak

  • The Art of Packing for Italy

    PART 149: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems that are worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's explore how purchasing a home in Italy changes how we pack. Step 2: My Goal Once we decided to establish a life in Italy, I set a goal: I wanted to travel between California and Italy without a suitcase. To achieve this goal, needed to stock our home in Tuscany with enough clothes and other supplies to avoid transporting items across the Atlantic. It seems like a realistic goal. How are we progressing? Step 3: Supplies Last year I was traveling to Tuscany to our completed home, and I wanted this to be the only trip during which I would need to bring two large suitcases. The first step was to decide what items I could buy in Italy and what I needed to bring from California so that I could leave all my clothes and supplies I would need at our home in Italy. Here are the steps I went through to figure out what I would or wouldn't need to bring: Clothing: Can I find my size in shoes and apparel in Italy? The short answer is no. No matter what store we went to in Italy, my feet were too big, and Italian men's clothing was too small, so I had to bring summer and winter clothing from the U.S. Toiletries: We all have our favorite toiletries, whether a specific deodorant, soap, face moisturizer, or other products that help us feel clean, fresh, and prepared for the day. I explored various pharmacies and online stores to see if I could find the toiletries I wanted while in Italy. If I couldn't locate the same brands, I discovered equivalent products. This approach allowed me to reduce the number of toiletries I needed to pack in my suitcase. Kitchen Supplies: Most kitchen supplies available in California can also be found in Italy, although some measurements may differ. During the cold months, we like using a crock pot, so we purchased one locally in Italy. We also found the rest of our kitchen supplies there, and having an IKEA nearby was very helpful. Food: While some expats bring food from their home countries to Italy, we chose not to do that—except for brownie mixes. We love our local fruits and vegetables, which taste fresher than we can find in the U.S. The local bakeries are fantastic, the coffee bars are excellent, and the poultry and beef are exceptional. So, why bring any food from the U.S. into Italy? (Except brownie mixes, of course). However, there are times when we crave something familiar... When I lived in Rome in the 1980s, peanut butter was rare, but now it's available in many Italian supermarkets. My partner and I love peanut butter, particularly the thicker variety, which isn't easily found in Italy. Instead, we often spend a little more on an American brand that doesn't run or drip from the bread. "I think I'm going to bring a Costco-sized jar of peanut butter next time," my partner recently said. "That would be great," I replied. However, I'm not planning to pack it in my suitcase. If he brings it over and the jar just sits in our kitchen in Tuscany, I might indulge a little... We haven't really felt the need to bring other foods to Italy. We did bring a box of See's candies for our Italian friends, but they found them too sweet. Brownie mixes are the only exception (the ones with walnuts!). Step 4: The challenge Supplies for Rome It would be simple to travel without any luggage if we were headed straight to our house in Tuscany after landing at the airport. However, since Rome holds a special place in my heart and always draws me back, I always arrive about a week before and spend some time in Rome before and after our stay in Tuscany. This means I have to make do with my small suitcase for about 7 days while I'm in Rome. Supplies in Tuscany The challenge is to carry as little as possible from California to Italy while ensuring I have enough supplies at our place in Tuscany. To help keep track of the supply items I already have in Tuscany (the things I brought over in my 2 huge suitcases last year) and those that I want to bring from the U.S., I've created a Google spreadsheet to organize my packing list. This sheet has columns for items that are "already in Italy" and those I "need to bring." It lists items such as medications, clothing items and some products that are difficult to find in Italy. This list evolves as I run low of supplies in Tuscany and need to bring an item or two. Check list for a week in Rome I have also created a checklist in Google Docs for my travel bag, which will serve as a carry-on for my week in Rome. This checklist includes every item I need for that week, detailing the exact number of socks and shirts to bring. By mapping everything out in advance, I can avoid the time-consuming process of staring at my suitcase and wondering how many pairs of pants to pack. I use this same list for every trip I take. I then add the items from my spreadsheet for Tuscany to my carry-on list, and I am set for the next trip! As our return to Italy approaches, I've streamlined my packing to just one carry-on. I included enough essential clothing for a week and basic toiletries to last a couple of days until I can shop in Rome for the rest. Additionally, I'm bringing a few items from my spreadsheet that I plan to leave in Tuscany, as I'm running low on them. There's no longer a need to check a bag. Step 5: Mission accomplished? Although my goal was to bring nothing back across the Atlantic, I couldn't achieve that due to my week-long stopovers in Rome. However, fitting my CPAP machine, clothing, and a few essential toiletries into one carry-on bag is a significant step forward. Exiting the plane without waiting for checked baggage is a fantastic feeling. Step 6: Having confidence in our life in Italy Learning to travel lighter is closely linked to building confidence in our life in Italy. Things will be different, and that's perfectly okay. We will find what we need and learn to adapt; it's all part of the adventure. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

  • Am I a dreamer or a doer?

    PART 153: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then return again in the Spring, and spend the rest of the time in California (as I explained in a previous blog, we only live in Italy for part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing.  This week, let's explore whether I am someone who dreams of moving to Italy or someone who actually does it. Step 2: Qualities of a Dreamer Visionary Thinking: Dreamers envision possibilities and possess a broad outlook on the future. They see the bigger picture and set long-term goals. Strong Vision: They have a vision of what they want to achieve in the future. Creative and Imaginative: Dreamers often have vivid imaginations and draw inspiration from new and innovative ideas. Motivated by Passion: They are driven by a desire to create something meaningful and impactful. Step 3: Qualities of a Doer Action-Oriented: Doers focus on taking action and accomplishing tasks. Detail-Oriented: They focus on the specific steps and details required to achieve their goals. Persistent: Doers are willing to put in the effort and work hard to overcome challenges. Practical: They concentrate on making things happen in the real world. Step 4: Living in Italy: Dreamers and Doers I can't count how many times friends and acquaintances have said, "I wish we could do what you're doing!" I always feel like responding, "You can; just take a small step." Many of us aspire to a bigger life. I remember when I worked for a nonprofit in Washington, DC, sitting in my cubicle and dreaming of a different life in a different place. Back then, I had no idea how to change my circumstances, so dreaming helped me cope. Two significant events shifted me from being a dreamer to becoming a doer: 1. I became increasingly determined to have a bigger life. I had my career, friendships, routines, and a stable life in the U.S., but that wasn't enough. I wanted more. 2. I lost several close friends who passed away before their time. This made me recognize that life is short, and if I keep postponing my dreams, I may never achieve them. Step 5: Is anything wrong with dreaming? Dreaming is often the first step toward taking action: I can't reach a goal or complete a task without first envisioning it. There's nothing wrong with dreaming, and it can sometimes help us navigate difficult circumstances. However, dreaming becomes an obstacle when it replaces taking action. Unless I am willing to turn my dream into reality, it will remain only in my mind. So, how can I take the next steps toward something as daunting as moving to Italy? Step 6: Baby steps and chunking I taught high school social studies in Los Angeles for 25 years, and one important lesson I learned from my students was the practice of "chunking." "Mr., I can't do this! It's too hard!" was a phrase I often heard during my early years of teaching. Since my approach was project-based, some projects were extensive, such as creating an illustrated booklet about World War II. Many students felt intimidated and believed they couldn't master the task. Then, I discovered the technique of "chunking." This involves breaking the project into smaller, manageable parts. "All you have to accomplish today is to write two paragraphs about the beginnings of World War II, using the outline I will provide and your notes." By dividing the larger project into bite-sized pieces and setting daily goals, rather than facing the entire assignment at once, my students completed their booklets with ease. In fact, we even visited a middle school where the students presented their booklets individually to the younger students. This same method can be applied to establishing a life in Italy. Eventually, we realized that we didn't need to understand every aspect of living in Italy right away. Instead, we could take small steps and learn along the way. We could "chunk it." Step 7: All or nothing Our journey began with a two-week trip to Italy during my winter break. This allowed us to explore different areas of interest, and we decided to start our Italian adventure in Puglia, where our friends live part-time. We later returned for two months during the summer, and then we leased a place for a year. During this time, we realized two important things: First, it didn't have to be all or nothing; we could live in Italy for part of the year while maintaining our residency in California. This arrangement better suited our commitments than a complete move. While our time in Puglia was wonderful, primarily because of our local friends, it felt too much like Southern California for us. We didn't travel all the way to Italy just to replicate our Californian lifestyle. Therefore, we searched for an area in Tuscany that better aligned with our interests and desires for history, culture, and more, and ultimately, we decided to buy a house there. Step 8: Making it happen and learning along the way Stepping out of the dream and into reality meant taking a small step: coming to Italy for two weeks and staying in the area we were interested in. The next step was to stay for an entire summer. During our first two years of establishing a life in Italy, we rented a place. Purchasing our home in Tuscany felt like a logical next step rather than a radical leap. Taking it one step at a time worked for us, helping us turn our dreams into reality. Could this approach also work for you? More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

  • Lessons Learned During Our Tuscan Home Renovation Journey

    PART 151: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's stay closer to home and reflect on some things we are learning as we renovated our house in Tuscany. Step 2: Contractor and architect and local codes We began our renovation project in Tuscany, thinking that, similar to our previous renovation in California, we simply needed a contractor to start the work. As the house is in a historical center, we assumed that we wouldn't need any approvals or permits as long as we didn't alter the exterior. We soon realized we were mistaken; we had to file paperwork before we could begin. Our contractor mentioned, "I have an architect I've worked with for years. He can handle the paperwork and obtain the necessary approvals for you." We learned that either an architect or a "geometra" , is essential for researching local building codes and managing the paperwork needed to initiate major renovations on a property. We also discovered that working with an architect with a good relationship with the contractor can significantly streamline the process. Our architect was reasonably priced compared to the costs in California. He conducted inspections before, during, and after the work, ensuring everything complied with local codes. The paperwork was submitted to government office in Grosseto, and he got it approved within a few days. When it comes to finding a reliable architect, "geometra" or contractor, recommendations from realtors or local friends are the best resources. Fortunately, we were referred to an excellent architect and contractor who performed quality work at a reasonable price. Remember: things work more smoothly and quickly in Italy through relationships. Step 3: Looking for materials: Speciality shops versus big box stores like Tecnomat When we started renovating our house in Tuscany, we asked our contractor to source all the materials for us, including tiles, vanities, showers, and lighting, as we were unfamiliar with where to find supplies in Italy. After spending a few days on-site, we discovered a mix of specialty shops and big-box stores in our area of Tuscany. It seemed that in Italy, at least in our part of Tuscany, there were either expensive specialty shops offering a wide range of products—from tiles to custom bathrooms—or large big-box stores, with little in between. We decided to refine some of our contractor's choices and see if we could build our renovation project around a selected color palette and theme while keeping in budget. Initially, we visited the specialty shops and found some unique tiles for our kitchen backsplash that complemented our chosen decor color of green. However, we noticed that some of the smaller specialty stores dramatically increased our budget for showers, bathroom vanities, faucets, lighting, and other renovation materials. We set out to find sources for general renovation materials, such as showers, faucets, sinks, toilets, and more. We discovered Tecnomat, which is Italy's closest equivalent to Home Depot. We drove to the location near Florence to explore their selection and look for shower tiles that we needed for the next day. To our pleasant surprise, we found a wide variety of options and were able to select the right color and size. Additionally, we came across good-quality toilets, mirrors, vanities, and faucets that could be useful for future renovation projects. We concluded that Tecnomat is an excellent source of essential renovation materials. Step 4: Swapping out a kitchen We found that we could replace our kitchen, including all the appliances, for less than it would cost in the U.S. In Italy, it's common to purchase a complete kitchen package that includes cabinets and appliances, often with installation included. Deciding to install a new kitchen was an easy choice for us. Step 5: Ordering materials and waiting In our region of Tuscany, several independently owned home and builder supply stores exist. Most materials, such as tiles, showers, sinks, and toilets, must be ordered rather than readily available in stock. We initially assumed that everything displayed in the stores would be in stock, but this was often untrue. As a result, work sometimes had to stop while we waited for orders to arrive. In the future, understanding this situation will help us submit orders well before we need the materials from local suppliers. Step 6: Visiting Ikea is helpful During our renovation, we realized that the bathroom we were designing lacked sufficient storage. The existing bathroom had no drawers or cabinets, and the flat wall mirror provided no extra space for our bathroom supplies. We visited a local builders' supply store to explore various vanities and storage options, but we couldn't find anything that suited our design or needs. "I don't want to step into an IKEA in Italy!" I told my partner months earlier. However, we needed storage ideas and didn't know where else to go. Fortunately, the trip was helpful, as it gave us ideas even if we decided to purchase elsewhere. While exploring the model bathrooms at IKEA, we came up with great solutions to create more storage in our space. In fact, we decided to cancel the order for the bathroom vanity we had initially placed with our local building supply store and found a different option elsewhere that offered ample storage. Whether you choose to purchase or not, visiting IKEA is a fantastic way to browse and gather ideas for a renovation. Step 7: Local stores and Amazon I prioritize supporting local stores over big box retailers or Amazon. Down the street from us in our town, there is an electronics store where we bought our clothes dryer, toaster, and a shop vacuum. When we need materials for our renovation, we first explore local businesses. If they don't have what we're looking for, we head to Tecnomat. If we still can't find it there, we go to Amazon. We recently needed to replace the lighting fixtures in our home but couldn't find anything that matched the modern Tuscan style we were trying to achieve at our local stores. The options available either appeared too old-fashioned or too "space age" modern. In the end, we turned to Amazon, where we easily found lighting fixtures that suited the style of our house. If anything arrived and looked different than expected, we returned it to Amazon through our local post office. Our rule of thumb is to first check local businesses, then big box stores, and lastly, Amazon. As we embark on our journey of building a life in Italy and renovating our house in Tuscany, we are learning valuable lessons along the way. One of the most important discoveries we've made is that relationships matter and referrals are essential. We now view this process as an adventure rather than merely something to endure. More next time. SECOND EDITION NOW ON SALE FOR $2.99! "She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome." https://a.co/d/4Bx0Eh3 . Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

  • How Long Should We Stay in Italy?

    PART 3: I thought it might be of interest to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We are in Puglia until the end of September, then back again in the winter. The title of this posting is: citizenship, Visa or Passport? Step 1: Our first step was to decide how long we want to be in Italy initially. From our research, we discovered that, with a US passport, the formula is, more or less, 90 days in and then 90 days out. Step 2: But should we want to stay longer what are our options? Since neither of us qualify for Italian citizenship, our next option was applying for a visa. Since I just recently retired, I could qualify for the elective visa, which we will look into in the future. Step 3: How long? Our choice is to remain in Italy for part of the year and in California for the other part, due to our ties and obligations. But how long would we stay each time? This was the nagging question. Step 4: Decisions. We decided to do a trial run of three months, a little shy of 90 days, as our initial stay. This seems wiser to us than a complete plunge. For this, we would only need our passports and not a visa. Step 4: Future questions. We decided to take our life in Italy one step at a time. So far, our life here has been amazing. I may apply for a visa in the future, but for right now, coming on a passport for 90 days is a great beginning way to experience life here as a resident. Watch for my book coming out later in the year: "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy". More next time.

  • Searching for American Foods in Italy

    PART 46: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the Summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: I lived in Italy for eight years in the 1980s, and now we are returning, living in Puglia following the 90 days in/out model (see previous blog). Peoples, cultures, and practices evolve, including the emergence of American foods in Italy. Examining some foods that have entered the Italian mainstream might be fun. Step 2: The pancake. I was in our grocery store in Puglia recently, looking at all the packages of cookies that I shouldn't be buying. One package caught my eye since it was labeled "pancakes." Of course, I picked it up and squeezed it. Yep, cooked pancakes inside wrapped in cellophane. I called my partner over and showed him with a curious expression. We went for coffee the following week, and I saw pancakes on the menu, so I ordered them. A few minutes later, I had a nice stack of 3 pancakes with maple syrup, nuts, and bananas in front of me. When I squeezed the bag of pancakes in the grocery store and then ordered them at our cafe, the pancakes had a similar feel of density. The pancakes were not light and fluffy but were much firmer than what I am used to, having been made beforehand. I have seen cooked pancakes stacked up and pre-prepared, in fact, in several cafes. In conclusion, the pancake has entered the mainstream in Italy, but it is a different take. I don't find pancakes in Puglia better or worse than the fluffier type I am used to since they are a different type of product adapted to another kind of taste. I am glad that I can appreciate both. Step 3: Peanut butter. I love my peanut butter but hate the kind that separates into a layer of oil. Personal preference. When I lived in Rome in the 1980s, the seminary supplied us with peanut butter (shipped in from Africa) because of the number of Americans. But then, one day during a conference, the priest in charge claimed it caused cancer, so the peanut butter stopped. We suspected the real reason was the expense; he wanted to reduce the budget, so he made a story to cover his tracks. Fast forward to now; we can find peanut butter in just about every supermarket we have set foot in here in Puglia. But in our experience, stores tend to carry less expensive Italian brands with a layer of oil, or Skippy, which spreads easier. What is the downside? Skippy peanut butter is expensive. Our solution: buy the Skippy but stop putting gobs of it on a sandwich as we do back in California. If I have to spread thinner to keep getting my Skippy, I will do that! Step 4: Doughnuts. When I lived in Italy in the 1980s, I saw donuts at most bars and cafes; they were always sugar donuts. I am not a big donut eater, but occasionally, I would enjoy a fresh Italian donut with a crunchy sugary crust. What about the American version of donuts, covered with maple, vanilla, pink, blue, and almost every other color and flavor of frosting? Back in California, there are so many choices that sugar donuts get hidden by the maple bars and strawberry-filled jellies. Back to Italy: I've always felt a sense of pride that Italy seemed to have stood fast and stuck with the simple but fresh sugar donut. But alas, all things change. I counted at least five different frosting colors on the donuts at the bakery in our supermarket. I saw the increased variety as a setback rather than progress. Why can't we stick to the delicious fresh sugar donuts, which depend more on simple, fresh ingredients rather than crazy-colored frostings? Give me my plain sugar donut, please. Step 5: Coca-cola and milk. Years ago, a family I knew invited me to a formal lunch at their home in southern Italy. When we sat down, everyone except me had a wine glass on the table. In front of my dish was placed a can of Coke. Since I was friends with this family, I laughed out loud. "But don't you always drink Coca Cola?" one of my hosts asked. "I haven't drunk a Coke in years!" I replied. "What do you drink with your meals?" they asked. I thought for a moment. "Well, water, juice, or sometimes, when I have a sandwich for lunch, a glass of milk." You can guess what happened next. "Milk! Milk???? Milk with a meal????" I still hear about that one. Coca-cola has been mainstream in Italy for decades; the first bottle produced in the country was in 1927. It is a popular beverage, as evidenced by various varieties in stores. The stereotype that Americans drink Coke a lot still has some remnants here. Some do, but others stick to water, juices, and other beverages. I have to make a confession: recently, the longer I am in Puglia, the more often I ask for a Coke Zero, whereas in California, I rarely touch it. Why is that? As far as drinking a glass of milk with a sandwich for lunch…well, my local friends still think I'm crazy when I do that. But I like my milk. What can I say? Insights: American foods working their way into Italian culture can be gratifying, amusing, or regrettable. (I hope junk food doesn't replace the incredible cuisine here.) It can be interesting to trace the influence of cultures through foods and appreciate what is unique to certain areas; it helps one understand that the intermingling of cultures can have many positive, negative, or neutral effects. More next time. SECOND EDITION NOW ON SALE FOR $2.99!  “She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome.” https://a.co/d/4Bx0Eh3 .  Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

  • Do I need an Italian bank account to purchase a house in Italy?

    PART 84: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: We recently bought a house in Italy (Tuscany) and were given unclear information about whether we needed a bank account in Italy to purchase a house. I am not setting myself up as an expert in this area, but I am happy to share some of our experiences. Step 2: Do I need a bank account in Italy? The simple answer is: No. Down payment: I can wire the down payment directly from my bank to the seller's bank to purchase a house in Italy. Balance of purchase: When it comes time to pay the balance, I can wire the remainder to the bank of the Italian Notary handling the sale. Step 3: What about the Fiscale Code (codice fiscale)? IIt is mandatory to have an Italian tax code for several activities, such as opening an Italian bank account, starting an Italian court dispute, buying or inheriting an Italian property, registering a preliminary contract for a property purchase, getting Wifi installed, applying for a utility connection or applying for an Italian mortgage. When my partner and I decided to purchase a property in Italy, I had already applied for my fiscal code through an Italian consulate in the US. However, after a month, I still hadn't heard anything back. I started to get nervous because the purchase date was approaching. Our realtor told us that they could obtain a codice fiscale much quicker. We decided to let the realtor take over the process, and we obtained our fiscal codes within a week. Step 4: Is it BETTER to have an Italian bank account set up before purchasing a home in Italy? The overwhelming answer is: YES! We returned to the United States after our offer on the house was accepted without opening an Italian bank account. We chose to wire the money to a notary and let him handle the transaction. However, we soon discovered that the process of closing the sale on the house can be more complicated without an Italian bank account. Here are some of the challenges we faced: Firstly, we had to wire money to several banks: The down payment to the owner's bank The balance of the cost of the house to another bank The taxes and notary expenses to another bank Each wire from a US bank would have fees and/or lower than market exchange rates. Secondly, I wanted to wire the balance of the house payment from my investments instead of directly from a bank. However, I found out that it can take weeks to get approval from an investment firm for a third-party payment (wiring the money to a bank account that is not mine). I had to change my strategy since I only had a few weeks before the closing. I had the investment firm wire the money to my US bank account, and then I had my bank wire it to Italy. However, like most others, my bank didn't give me a great exchange rate, and I didn't have enough time to learn how to use services like Wise or other transfer services. Finally, fees are attached to a notary handling the final payment for the house rather than the buyer bringing a certified check from the bank. Despite these challenges, we overcame them all and successfully closed on the house. Step 5: How to open an Italian bank account: Can I do it online? It has been said that opening a bank account in Italy online is possible. Before purchasing our house, while we were in Rome a few days before returning to California, I visited the bank's website and filled out the questionnaire. I thought it would be an easy process and that we would have our bank account before buying the house. However, I encountered a question that required me to scan in my Tessera Sanitaria, or Italian health insurance card. Since we were not residents, we did not have one. Fortunately, there are branches of this bank all over Rome. I took my computer, walked to the branch and explained the problem. "You don't need to be a resident of Italy to open a bank account. However, you do need to be a resident to open an account online. You just need your passport to open an account in person," they told me. Therefore, to open an online bank account, you must be a registered resident of Italy. Otherwise, you must do it in person. One requirement of opening up a bank account in Italy is supplying the bank with an Italian address of residence. Since we had been renting a home in Puglia, this wasn’t a problem for us. In fact, the bank told me that I could supply the address of the home we were purchasing, even though we hadn’t closed on it yet.  Step 6: Opening an account in a different city. At the same bank in Rome, I asked, "So can I just open an account here and then access it from Tuscany, where we will live?" The bank employee shook her head. "In theory, yes, you can access your funds anywhere. But I would strongly suggest you open your account in the town where you will be living. Otherwise, you will not have access to some of the bank services you may need." In California, my bank is in Los Angeles, and I live in Palm Springs; I have access to all bank services everywhere. But, according to the banks in Italy that I consulted, opening one's account in the city of residence is always recommended to access all of the bank's services. Step 7: What about utilities? Based on what my expat friends have told me, there are a few options to pay for utilities in Italy. You can pay in person, use PayPal, or pay through your bank. However, the most convenient way to manage your utility payments in Italy is by connecting them to your Italian bank account and setting up automatic payments. This will help avoid any issues that may arise from missed payments due to an oversight, such as a lost email or a mistake made while using PayPal. To avoid any potential issues with our utility payments, our realtor has helped us set up automatic payments. Step 8: Opening the account in our town We just arrived in Tuscany to finalize the purchase of our house. We transferred the money for the purchase to the Notary, who did an excellent job guiding us through the closing process. The next day, I visited a local branch of Intesa San Paolo, a well-known Italian bank, to open my first bank account in Italy. The account opening process took two days but was effortless and straightforward. The day after opening the account, I wired money from the US to the account to make paying for home renovations more manageable. Having an Italian bank account has made money transfers, bill payments, and obtaining euros much more convenient. I regret not having done it sooner. Insights: We are gradually discovering what life in Italy is like and adapting as we go. Despite making mistakes along the way, we try to learn from them. We always seek guidance from locals and draw insights from our experiences. The process would have been smoother if we had opened an Italian bank account before buying a house. Now that we have a local bank account, paying bills and handling other expenses has become much easier. More next time. Now on sale for $2.99: My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRKMKPWF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_X2WRQ3PTG2ZDD7AVF6GH Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

  • Is It Worth Buying a Home in a "Dying" Italian Town?

    PART 139: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing.  This week, let's explore our experience of deciding whether to buy a house in a dying Italian town. Step 2: What is a dying Italian town? With the emergence of "1 euro homes" for sale, reflecting on the advantages and disadvantages may be worthwhile. The first step to gaining clarity is to define our terms: A "dying town" may refer to several factors, including: - Population decline - Economic decline, such as the loss of jobs and businesses - Deterioration of infrastructure, including roads Thus, the definition of a "dying town" can encompass all or just one of these characteristics. Step 3: My experience In my experience, the most common reason for an Italian town's decline is a decrease in population, often linked to economic factors. A town that may appear charming to an American can feel like a dead end to a local young person seeking career or job opportunities. So they move away. Another phenomenon is a lively town with a declining historical center. Locals might shy away from living in the historical area due to narrow streets and other inconveniences. In contrast, foreigners may be drawn to the historical center's history and charm. Step 4: Plus factors Suppose one is a foreigner looking to establish a life in Italy. In that case, whether full-time or part-time, there are several advantages to renting or buying property in areas with declining populations. These advantages include: More affordable housing options Economic incentives offered by the local government The chance to live in a historic and charming area Greater opportunities to connect with locals in smaller towns Many smaller historical towns feature beautiful centers and houses full of character Step 5: Negative factors What may be a negative factor for me might not be for someone else. Positive and negative aspects depend on what one is looking for in establishing a life in Italy. For example, some might prioritize enjoying wine on a balcony every evening, or having easy access to cultural and historical sites, or mountain biking along the rolling hills. For me, some of the negative factors of living in a declining town include: There isn't anything going on. In some towns I have visited, there hasn't been much going on. Years ago, I stayed in one such town while looking at housing. It was a beautiful, charming historical area. However, after a few days, I realized the place felt deserted. I was often the only person on the streets, and if we moved to a town like that, we would likely just spend our evenings watching TV—something we can already do in California. Lifestyle challenges. We desire a more active lifestyle, whether in California or Italy. Whether it involves going to the gym, hiking in nature, or exploring new areas, we want to be near these opportunities. Some of the places I have researched and visited lack some of these options nearby. Accessibility to cultural and historical sites Both of us are interested in history and culture, so being within a short distance of multiple historical and cultural sites is important. Some (not all) charming villages in decline can feel isolated from these attractions. Accessibility Some declining towns require comfort when driving in Italy and might not have nearby train connections. Abandoned or empty houses Abandoned houses are a sign of decline, which may or may not be an obstacle, depending on what one is looking for. Step 6: Big city or smaller town Many expats or individuals looking to establish a life in Italy often consider living in large cities like Rome or Florence. However, some may find themselves priced out of these metropolitan areas. This leads to an important decision: what type of town should I consider for living within my budget? That was our experience as well. We were priced out of the larger cities, and my partner doesn't enjoy city living. As a result, we shifted our focus to smaller towns that offer charm and a sense of community. Step 7: What we found We settled in Arcidosso, a lively town with a fascinating historical background. It is linked to the Knights Templar, the Via Francigena pilgrimage route, and features an 8th-century castle. Arcidosso is a vibrant community with schools, shops, festivals, easy access to cultural sites, and various sports activities. Additionally, we are located next to Mount Amiata, which offers skiing, hiking, and mountain biking opportunities. Before finding the right fit for our lifestyle, we visited many towns, some in decline and others not. We started in Puglia and had a great time there, but we felt the lifestyle was too similar to Southern California for us. Ultimately, we ended up in Tuscany because of our love for the outdoors and the easy access to historical and cultural sites. Our town, Arcidosso, is ideally situated for exploration, new experiences, and starting a new life. Insights: Finding a place to live in Italy can feel like taking a personality test; it largely depends on your interests and desired lifestyle. Determining what constitutes a "dying" town versus a vibrant one also relies on the experience I seek. Being close to cultural landmarks and historical sites may attract some people to areas where the towns are small and picturesque, with museums and history within driving distance. Quiet evenings on the terrace and the opportunity to connect with locals might entice someone to another town experiencing population decline, even if it lacks vibrant street life, as that might not be what they seek. Being close to hiking trails, biking paths, and stunning views may attract nature lovers to a different, less populated, town. Some people are attracted to the historical center of a town, even when a newer and more vibrant area is nearby. They often appreciate the charm and history of the old buildings despite the presence of abandoned houses and signs of decline. For many, the appeal of the past and the excitement of taking on a renovation project in a historical area outweigh the challenges involved. As we explored more towns, we began to understand the unique vibe of each place, which helped us clarify what we were looking for. This journey happily led us to our current home. I hope your journey leads you to a town that fits what you are looking for. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

  • From Tuscany to Notre Dame

    PART 150: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then return again in the Spring, and spend the rest of the time in California (as I explained in a previous blog, we only live in Italy part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing.  This week, let's embark on a journey from Tuscany to Paris and visit Notre Dame in that glorious city. Step 2: About six months ago, we had a bold idea: why not drive to France and create a big loop that includes Nice, Lourdes, Paris, and Carcassonne? However, after calculating the driving distances, we realized that it would be too much for the 8- to 9-day period we had set aside for the trip. Eventually, we devised a more manageable itinerary that suited us. Step 3: Our itinerary What we came up with as our itinerary was this: Friday: Drive to Nice and spend the night exploring the old city. Saturday: Drive to Lourdes to volunteer. Sunday to Tuesday: Continue volunteering in Lourdes. Wednesday: Take a train to Paris, arriving in the afternoon for a stroll through the city. Thursday: Visit Notre Dame and the Louvre in Paris. Friday: Take a train back to Lourdes, pick up the car, and drive to Carcassonne. Saturday: Drive to Nice to explore, eat, and enjoy. Sunday: Drive home to Arcidosso. Step 4: Our focus While I could focus on various topics, including the impactful volunteering experience in Lourdes, today, let's explore our visit to Notre Dame in Paris, which was truly extraordinary. Step 5: First impressions On the afternoon of our arrival in Paris, after settling into our cozy Airbnb, we decided to take a 30-minute walk to the Notre Dame Cathedral. We had tickets to visit the inside the next day, so we just wanted to admire it from the outside and soak in its grandeur. My first impression was one of magic. Notre Dame feels almost mythical; it's very real, but it has an enchanting quality. The sight of its flying buttresses reminded me of my first visit at the age of 20. Back then, the stones appeared darker, and the building seemed harsher and colder from the outside than it does now. I recalled those two days in Paris when I didn't have enough money for a meal, yet I was profoundly grateful to witness something so magnificent. As a smaller-town boy from Sacramento, being in such a great city was overwhelming. My second impression was the surprise at how unfinished the exterior still is. From the interior photos I had seen, the restoration efforts were complete, and for the most part, they are inside. However, the outside still requires significant work, with scaffolding on one side and workers climbing up on the other. I found this surprising. Step 6: Background Notre-Dame de Paris, meaning "Cathedral of Our Lady of Paris," is a medieval Catholic cathedral located on Île de la Cité in Paris, France. It serves as the cathedral church for the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Paris. Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, Notre-Dame is considered a prime example of French Gothic architecture. It is renowned for its ribbed vaults, flying buttresses, large rose windows, and intricate sculptures. The cathedral also houses three pipe organs and impressive church bells. Construction began in 1163 under Bishop Maurice de Sully and was largely completed by 1260, although it has undergone modifications in subsequent centuries. The cathedral suffered damage during the French Revolution but later hosted significant events, including the coronation of Napoleon. As a symbol of both Paris and France, Notre-Dame was granted honorary status as a minor basilica in 1805. It attracts approximately 12 million visitors each year, making it the most visited monument in Paris. Step 7: The fire On April 15, 2019, a fire broke out under the eaves of the Notre Dame Cathedral's roof at approximately 6:30 PM local Paris time. The blaze rapidly engulfed the spire and most of the roof, continuing to burn until the following morning. Investigators believe the fire may have been caused by a discarded cigarette or an electrical short circuit. While the wooden spire and roof were destroyed, the vaulted stone ceiling helped contain the damage and prevented extensive harm to the interior. Many works of art and religious relics were moved to safety, although some suffered from smoke damage. Fortunately, the altar, two pipe organs, and three 13th-century rose windows sustained little to no damage. Firefighters managed to bring the blaze under control, saving the main structure, including the bell towers and rose windows. Fortunately, no injuries were reported. In the aftermath of the fire, the international community pledged hundreds of millions of dollars for reconstruction efforts. Step 8: The Restoration On April 16, 2019, the flames that devastated Paris's Notre-Dame Cathedral were finally extinguished. French President Emmanuel Macron promised to rebuild the iconic monument within five years, stating that it would emerge "more beautiful than ever." The restoration involves carefully reconstructing the areas damaged by fire, particularly the roof and spire, using traditional methods and materials. This process includes repairing the stone walls, restoring the stained-glass windows, and revitalizing the interior. The project engages around 2,000 craftspeople and 250 companies, with an estimated budget of $900 million. Although the site reopened before the end of the year, restoration work is ongoing. Step 9: Stepping inside To ensure we could enter Notre Dame in the morning, I reserved free tickets the day before. As soon as we stepped inside, the first thing I noticed was the light. The entire interior of the church seemed to be bathed in a soft glow, reflecting off the white stone walls and soaring ceiling. It's difficult to describe the experience of being in the "new" Notre Dame. I was standing inside a church that dates back to 1163, yet it appeared remarkably fresh. The light streaming through the massive stained glass windows illuminated the white stone walls, creating a warm, majestic space that felt both welcoming and cozy. We arrived early enough to explore the church's perimeters, entering side chapels, admiring the restored paintings, and marveling at the craftsmanship. My favorite part was the exterior of the choir enclosure, adorned with carvings that depict the stories of Christ's life. I was among the few who paused to appreciate these intricate images, which made the events of Christ's life accessible to both the literate and the illiterate. What I love most about this section of Notre Dame is the human quality of the carvings, which express emotions such as surprise, joy, sorrow, and triumph. After completing our tour around the cathedral, it became increasingly crowded, so we sought refuge in the enclosed areas reserved for prayer at the front and took a seat. Rather than merely touring the cathedral as a visitor, I wanted to experience it like a pilgrim. Sitting there, allowing the sacredness of the place to envelop me, and enjoying the tranquility was a crucial part of our visit. We spent a long time in reflection and began to understand the purpose behind the construction of Notre Dame. We found ourselves in a different world, with a new perspective and feeling, removed from our daily lives yet still connected to them. By the time we left Notre Dame, we felt a joyful transformation, as everything outside seemed to be illuminated with the warm light that had filled the interior. Insights: We started our visit to Notre Dame as mere tourists but ended up experiencing it as a sacred place. As we gazed at the artwork, marveled at the restoration process, and admired the architecture, we found ourselves drawn into the peace and serenity that embody the heart of Notre Dame—a place where everyone is welcome. Sitting in the cathedral and allowing its history, architecture, and artwork to "speak" can uplift you, transport you elsewhere, and then gently guide you back, ready to continue your day. That's what Notre Dame meant to me. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

  • Transforming Our Italian Dream: Before and After Renovating Our House

    PART 119: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems that are worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week let's explore how our house renovation is going. Step 2: We fell in love with our Tuscan home as soon as we saw it, but we knew some changes were necessary to fit our lifestyle. We didn't want to remove walls or make structural alterations, but we hoped to make it more "user-friendly," especially for American tastes, so we would feel more comfortable. Here are some before and after images of our home renovation in Tuscany. Step 3: The Kitchen The original built-in kitchen was beautiful but not practical for us. It had minimal storage and no dishwasher, and the stovetop relied on a propane tank under the sink. The sink was also tiny, and there were no drawers for silverware and other utensils. Before/After We decided to remove the old kitchen and purchased and installed a new one featuring an electric stove/oven, a dishwasher, a large sink with a dish sprayer, and plenty of drawers and storage options. The new kitchen actually occupies less space than the original and gives the room a more sleek and modern feel. Since our pantry adjacent to the kitchen is too small for a refrigerator, we knew the fridge would need to be placed in the main room. To make it visually interesting, we chose a 1950s-style refrigerator and microwave. Step 4: Converting the Dining Room into a Living Room In our house, one main room was originally furnished with a large dining table in the center, which occupied most of the space. This room functioned as both a kitchen and dining area, leaving no room for a living space. We didn't want a room dominated by a massive table with a sofa pushed against one wall. Our goal was to create a genuine living room with a sofa, chairs, a rug in front of a fireplace, and a smaller table for meals. To achieve this, we explored space-saving furniture options and discovered a wooden dining table that folds up against the wall, resembling a mantelpiece. We also found some space-saving living room furniture with a mid-century modern design. To maintain unity between the kitchen and living room, we decided to continue with the green theme of the kitchen cabinets. As a result, we now have a cozy living room with a fireplace and a dining area that we can open up during mealtimes. We chose not to place a TV in the main room but created a snug TV area upstairs. Before/After Step 5: Lighting We frequently bumped our heads on the house's lighting fixtures, most of which were pendant lights. We desired a more modern industrial aesthetic for the lighting, so we searched extensively for rustic fixtures that would sit closer to the ceiling. Our initial attempt to create an industrial lighting effect on the beams didn't turn out as expected, so we decided to redo the lighting by installing cable lighting between the rustic ceiling beams. The new lighting perfectly complements our home's Tuscan, mid-century modern, and industrial design themes. We ended up replacing all of the lighting in the home, using fixtures with a Tuscan/industrial theme. Step 6: Bathrooms Initially, we had only one bathroom but realized we needed two. Thankfully, our realtor referred us to an excellent contractor and architect who assisted with designing, selecting materials, and obtaining the necessary local government approvals. We decided to use part of the guest bedroom to create the new bathroom while preserving the rest of the room for a TV snug and a sofa bed for guests. We opted for a sleek, modern design for the new bathroom that maximizes utility and storage. Once we completed the new bathroom, we realized that the original bathroom also needed renovation. The half bathtub was inadequate for our needs, the sink and vanity were too large, and there was no heating. The hot water heater was about the size of a shoebox, which meant we had a lot of work ahead. We chose to keep the original white wall tiles and created a shower area using similar tiles. We removed the vanity, built a wall between the shower and laundry area, and installed new lighting and a large mirror. We also installed an electric towel drying rack that functions as a room heater during the winter. The result is a clean, sleek design that retains the original flooring and wood beam ceiling. Before/After Step 7: Bedrooms For the main bedroom, we knew we wanted a king-sized bed, ample storage, and a TV. We aimed for the room to feel spacious and uncluttered. To achieve this, we rearranged the furniture to accommodate the larger bed, added a dresser that doubles as a TV stand, and installed a metal industrial locker under the stairs for extra storage. We also added a carpet to give the room a warmer atmosphere. We wanted a multi-use space in the guest bedroom: it needed to serve as a sleeping area when we had guests, and a TV room and study/work area when it was unoccupied. We found a comfortable chaise sofa that could be used as a bed, included a dresser that could serve as a TV stand, and purchased a desk and lighting to create a study/work space in the window nook. Before/After Step 8: Work Areas Whenever my partner or I need to work on our computers, we utilize a dedicated workspace in the guest bedroom and another in the living room. Additionally, we can have a third workspace in the attic, although we have not started that project yet. Step 9: Other Improvements In addition to the improvements mentioned above, we also made the following upgrades: - Installed a clothes washer and dryer - Replaced all the windows with double-paned glass - Installed a large-capacity water heater - Installed heating downstairs and in the bathrooms - Created much-needed (hidden) storage Step 10: The Result The outcome of our renovation project is a Tuscan-style home that incorporates industrial and mid-century modern design elements. It is functional for both living and working and is equipped with the amenities we are accustomed to as Californians. Video of main room : Video . Insights: Renovating a house in Tuscany has been a learning experience. Our patience was tested during the months we spent living amidst the renovation, but now it feels genuinely worth it. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

  • Mixing Italian Charm with American Comfort: Renovating a House in Tuscany

    PART 136: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's stay close to home as we continue to renovate our house in Tuscany according to American preferences. Step 2: Kitchen priorities When we purchased our house in Tuscany, we didn't want to recreate our house from California. Instead, we aimed to preserve the Tuscan character, embrace the Italian lifestyle, and adapt to the new culture. However, we also wanted to make renovation choices that reflected some aspects of our Californian background. We began our renovations in the kitchen. Rather than just calling it a kitchen, we viewed it as the house's main room. Previously, it functioned mainly as a dining room, featuring a large table at its center, a kitchen against the back wall, and a small refrigerator next to the window. A large pellet stove was positioned near the window, with a few scattered chairs and a small TV was mounted on the wall near the fireplace. While we needed a space for dining, we envisioned our main room as a place to relax, entertain, and enjoy our life in Tuscany. Our first step was to remove everything. We requested the removal of the pellet stove, which took up a lot of space, as well as the previous owner's furniture. Next, we reimagined the room to create a space where Californians like us would feel comfortable. We decided on a midcentury modern design theme that would incorporate Tuscan elements. The original kitchen had a cool, historical look but occupied too much space, offered little practical storage, lacked a dishwasher, and relied on a propane tank under the sink. It didn't take us long to decide to replace it. We found an integrated kitchen with an electric stove and dishwasher, which took up less space and had a sleeker look. We then purchased a 1950s-style refrigerator and microwave, organizing the kitchen along the room's far wall. Rather than a dining table that would dominate the space, we chose a wood foldable dining table that could comfortably seat up to six people. When folded and not in use, it resembles a sideboard. We placed it next to the fridge and mounted a large Tuscan-style clock above it. Since the main room features a large fireplace, we wanted it to be the focal point. We decided against having a TV in our main room and instead focused on creating a living area around the fireplace. We bought a vintage-style rug to delineate the living space and found a midcentury-style sofa and chair to provide seating. Modern wire-supported ceiling lights were installed on the wooden beams, and we positioned a lamp with Edison-style lighting in the corner where the pellet stove used to be. Lastly, since we didn't want to haul wood but desired the ambiance of a fireplace, we found a realistic-looking electric log set (from Germany) and installed it in the fireplace, which can also provide heat if needed. Now, when entering the main room, the cozy midcentury living area draws the eye, as well as the Tuscan style stone walls and wood beam ceiling. Behind the sofa is the simple and sleek kitchen, and on the opposite wall is the concealed dining table, which we extend each evening for our meals together. Transforming the dining room into a living space allowed us to create a main room that fits our Californian taste while preserving Tuscany's charm. Step 3: A second bathroom We made an offer on our house in Tuscany, contingent upon whether a second bathroom could be created. Although there are only two of us, we're accustomed to having our own bathrooms, and when guests stay over, we want them to have their own space as well. The only location where a new bathroom could fit was against the wall of the second bedroom. However, several questions arose: Would there be enough space for a shower, sink, and toilet? Could this be done under local building codes? Would the design have a modern and sleek feel? Fortunately, our realtor employs a skilled designer who was able to help us. We provided her with the measurements, and she spent just one day researching the codes, crafting a design, and presenting us with a 3-D mockup. A week after we took possession of the house, work began on the new bathroom. Our contractor, an expert in renovations, skillfully created the new plumbing and electricity. The final look is sleek and modern. The bathroom was completed a few days before we left for California. When we returned in the Fall, we were amazed that he transformed an empty wall space into an impressive second bathroom. Step 4: Main bathroom priorities What is a bathroom according to American taste? Have you seen those short bathtubs in Italy where you are meant to sit? They often have two levels (your butt on one level, your feet on the other), and we had one of those in the main bathroom. Taking a shower without getting water everywhere and avoiding slips was quite a balancing act. Our main bathroom also featured a bidet, a huge vanity with a jutted-out sink, a washing machine, and a tiny water heater. In our renovated main bathroom, we wanted to include a full shower, a large water heater, a hidden area for the washer and dryer, ample storage, a space-saving vanity, and a toilet positioned against the wall rather than in the corner. Additionally, we wanted a towel rack to dry towels and keep the room warm in winter. Our incredible contractor explained how he could realize our vision while staying within our budget. We had to live without a shower for a while but removed the old bathtub, sink vanity, bidet, and toilet. We then built a shower with the dimensions as the previous tub, constructed a wall to house the plumbing, installed a larger water heater, relocated the toilet, and found a modern vanity with plenty of storage. We also replaced the lighting with something more industrial in style. Later on, we had a clothes dryer installed on top of the washer, which we located in a less visible space. This work also was completed just a few days before we had to leave for California. Now, we have a bathroom that aligns more closely with American preferences: a "bigger" shower, a modern vanity with storage, a designated area for the washing machine and dryer, and more floor space for storage cabinets. All this, while preserving the Tuscan style with the wood beam ceilings. Step 5: Privacy choices Every couple has common interests, and some don't align. Sometimes, I want to work on my computer while he prefers to phone his friends back in the U.S. Other times, he wants to watch TV, but I would rather have some quiet. Occasionally, he likes to reflect on a future work project while I want to play some music. In California, we are accustomed to spending quality time together and having private spaces. So, how can we create those private spaces in our smaller house in Tuscany? We decided to convert the second bedroom into a cozy "snug" TV room with an office nook in the corner. Instead of filling the space with a large bed, we chose a chaise sofa that can also serve as a guest bed. We added soft lighting and placed a TV on the opposite wall. Now, we have a warm and inviting space that works for both of us, whether relaxing or doing desk work. Initially, we considered creating an office in the attic and almost purchased a desk for that purpose. However, after living in the house for a while, we realized it wasn't necessary. As a result, we now use the attic solely for storage. The foldable dining table in the kitchen can also serve as a desk, and I frequently work there when writing a blog like this one. The third private space is still a work in progress. The main bedroom can accommodate a lounge chair or a desk, providing a spot to work, relax in front of the TV, or listen to music. We haven't finalized the design for this space yet, but we are actively working on it. Americans generally prefer having private spaces in their homes, and that is what we aimed to achieve in our renovation. Step 6: Increasing storage As a Californian, one of our mottos is, "You can never have enough storage." Therefore, one of our first tasks in our house renovation was to increase our storage options. Fortunately, a kitchen pantry was built under our staircase, complete with some already installed shelving. The existing kitchen was spacious but lacked the storage we needed. After researching various kitchen designs that would meet our needs and blend with the style of the house, we ultimately installed a fantastic new kitchen. It features a dishwasher, induction stove, oven, ample storage, and a large sink. We also added more shelving units and containers to the existing pantry. We also aimed to create more storage in the two bedrooms. We found a dark wooden six-drawer dresser for the main bedroom, but we needed additional storage. To maintain our industrial and mid-century modern design aesthetic, we eventually opted for a tall metal industrial-style locker/storage unit that fits perfectly under the attic stairs. Now, we have plenty of storage in the main bedroom; it also looks great and fits with the overall design. We incorporated storage within the sofa bed in the second bedroom and added another six-drawer dresser. If we need more storage, we are on the lookout for an additional industrial-style metal cabinet, but everything seems to have its place. For the bathrooms, we selected vanities with ample storage areas, a free-standing metal cabinet in the main bathroom, and a shelving unit. Our storage dilemma has been resolved! The attic also serves as a great storage space, where we have infrequently used items in plastic bins. Step 7: Tuscan character Our house has a lot of Tuscan character, featuring wood-beamed ceilings and exposed stone walls. When we show our home to our American friends, the phrase we often hear is, "Wow, this is so cool!" We explored a variety of homes for sale in Puglia and Tuscany and were consistently drawn to those with historical features. As we began renovating our home in Tuscany, we aimed to preserve and highlight its historical aspects. Visitors notice the wood-beamed ceiling first, and it was what initially attracted us to this home. One of my first tasks was to apply wax to the wooden beams to refresh and nourish the wood. This was more challenging than I had anticipated; the rough-cut beams would snag the cloth, leaving little pieces embedded in the wood. I had to change my approach and tools, so what was meant to be a quick job took a long time. Eventually, I managed to wax the beams, and ended up applying bees wax to all the wood features in the house. Another prominent Tuscan feature is the exposed stone on the walls. We recently had the home's interior painted, and our incredible painter took great care to preserve the embedded stonework. The stone walls stand out even more against the freshly painted plaster. The third important aspect is the flooring. The original travertine flooring is still intact in the upstairs bedrooms, while the travertine in the two bathrooms and the main kitchen/dining/living area was covered with tile at some point. Instead of removing it, we decided to thoroughly clean the existing flooring. This choice proved wise, enabling us to complete the renovation in just a few months and the existing tile goes with our Tuscan theme. Step 8: Being flexible We didn't come to Tuscany to replicate our life in California; instead, we aim to be flexible and adapt to local customs while also incorporating elements of our background into our renovation. This is an ongoing learning process. Our hope is that the house will showcase the history of our area while providing the comfort that two Californians are used to. And it will be a place we can eventually pass on to someone else who desires an authentic Tuscan experience blended with American and British tastes. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

© 2013–2026 Mark Tedesco

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