From Tuscany to Notre Dame

PART 150: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way.

We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life!

We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then return again in the Spring, and spend the rest of the time in California (as I explained in a previous blog, we only live in Italy part of the year).

Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. 

This week, let's embark on a journey from Tuscany to Paris and visit Notre Dame in that glorious city.

Step 2: About six months ago, we had a bold idea: why not drive to France and create a big loop that includes Nice, Lourdes, Paris, and Carcassonne? However, after calculating the driving distances, we realized that it would be too much for the 8- to 9-day period we had set aside for the trip. Eventually, we devised a more manageable itinerary that suited us.

Step 3: Our itinerary

What we came up with as our itinerary was this:

1. Friday: Drive to Nice and spend the night exploring the old city.

2. Saturday: Drive to Lourdes to volunteer.

3. Sunday to Tuesday: Continue volunteering in Lourdes.

4. Wednesday: Take a train to Paris, arriving in the afternoon for a stroll through the city.

5. Thursday: Visit Notre Dame and the Louvre in Paris.

6. Friday: Take a train back to Lourdes, pick up the car, and drive to Carcassonne.

7. Saturday: Drive to Nice to explore, eat, and enjoy.

8. Sunday: Drive home to Arcidosso.

Step 4: Our focus

While I could focus on various topics, including the impactful volunteering experience in Lourdes, today, let's explore our visit to Notre Dame in Paris, which was truly extraordinary.

Step 5: First impressions

On the afternoon of our arrival in Paris, after settling into our cozy Airbnb, we decided to take a 30-minute walk to the Notre Dame Cathedral. We had tickets to visit the inside the next day, so we just wanted to admire it from the outside and soak in its grandeur.

My first impression was one of magic. Notre Dame feels almost mythical; it's very real, but it has an enchanting quality. The sight of its flying buttresses reminded me of my first visit at the age of 20. Back then, the stones appeared darker, and the building seemed harsher and colder from the outside than it does now. I recalled those two days in Paris when I didn't have enough money for a meal, yet I was profoundly grateful to witness something so magnificent. As a smaller-town boy from Sacramento, being in such a great city was overwhelming.

My second impression was the surprise at how unfinished the exterior still is. From the interior photos I had seen, the restoration efforts were complete, and for the most part, they are inside. However, the outside still requires significant work, with scaffolding on one side and workers climbing up on the other. I found this surprising.

Step 6: Background

Notre-Dame de Paris, meaning "Cathedral of Our Lady of Paris," is a medieval Catholic cathedral located on Île de la Cité in Paris, France. It serves as the cathedral church for the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Paris.

Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, Notre-Dame is considered a prime example of French Gothic architecture. It is renowned for its ribbed vaults, flying buttresses, large rose windows, and intricate sculptures. The cathedral also houses three pipe organs and impressive church bells.

Construction began in 1163 under Bishop Maurice de Sully and was largely completed by 1260, although it has undergone modifications in subsequent centuries. The cathedral suffered damage during the French Revolution but later hosted significant events, including the coronation of Napoleon.

As a symbol of both Paris and France, Notre-Dame was granted honorary status as a minor basilica in 1805. It attracts approximately 12 million visitors each year, making it the most visited monument in Paris.

Step 7: The fire

On April 15, 2019, a fire broke out under the eaves of the Notre Dame Cathedral's roof at approximately 6:30 PM local Paris time. The blaze rapidly engulfed the spire and most of the roof, continuing to burn until the following morning.

Investigators believe the fire may have been caused by a discarded cigarette or an electrical short circuit. While the wooden spire and roof were destroyed, the vaulted stone ceiling helped contain the damage and prevented extensive harm to the interior. Many works of art and religious relics were moved to safety, although some suffered from smoke damage. Fortunately, the altar, two pipe organs, and three 13th-century rose windows sustained little to no damage.

Firefighters managed to bring the blaze under control, saving the main structure, including the bell towers and rose windows. Fortunately, no injuries were reported. In the aftermath of the fire, the international community pledged hundreds of millions of dollars for reconstruction efforts.

Step 8: The Restoration

On April 16, 2019, the flames that devastated Paris's Notre-Dame Cathedral were finally extinguished. French President Emmanuel Macron promised to rebuild the iconic monument within five years, stating that it would emerge "more beautiful than ever."

The restoration involves carefully reconstructing the areas damaged by fire, particularly the roof and spire, using traditional methods and materials. This process includes repairing the stone walls, restoring the stained-glass windows, and revitalizing the interior. The project engages around 2,000 craftspeople and 250 companies, with an estimated budget of $900 million. Although the site reopened before the end of the year, restoration work is ongoing.

Step 9: Stepping inside

To ensure we could enter Notre Dame in the morning, I reserved free tickets the day before.

As soon as we stepped inside, the first thing I noticed was the light. The entire interior of the church seemed to be bathed in a soft glow, reflecting off the white stone walls and soaring ceiling.

It's difficult to describe the experience of being in the "new" Notre Dame. I was standing inside a church that dates back to 1163, yet it appeared remarkably fresh. The light streaming through the massive stained glass windows illuminated the white stone walls, creating a warm, majestic space that felt both welcoming and cozy.

We arrived early enough to explore the church's perimeters, entering side chapels, admiring the restored paintings, and marveling at the craftsmanship. My favorite part was the exterior of the choir enclosure, adorned with carvings that depict the stories of Christ's life. I was among the few who paused to appreciate these intricate images, which made the events of Christ's life accessible to both the literate and the illiterate. What I love most about this section of Notre Dame is the human quality of the carvings, which express emotions such as surprise, joy, sorrow, and triumph.

After completing our tour around the cathedral, it became increasingly crowded, so we sought refuge in the enclosed areas reserved for prayer at the front and took a seat. Rather than merely touring the cathedral as a visitor, I wanted to experience it like a pilgrim. Sitting there, allowing the sacredness of the place to envelop me, and enjoying the tranquility was a crucial part of our visit.

We spent a long time in reflection and began to understand the purpose behind the construction of Notre Dame. We found ourselves in a different world, with a new perspective and feeling, removed from our daily lives yet still connected to them.

By the time we left Notre Dame, we felt a joyful transformation, as everything outside seemed to be illuminated with the warm light that had filled the interior.

Insights: We started our visit to Notre Dame as mere tourists but ended up experiencing it as a sacred place. As we gazed at the artwork, marveled at the restoration process, and admired the architecture, we found ourselves drawn into the peace and serenity that embody the heart of Notre Dame—a place where everyone is welcome. Sitting in the cathedral and allowing its history, architecture, and artwork to "speak" can uplift you, transport you elsewhere, and then gently guide you back, ready to continue your day.

That's what Notre Dame meant to me.

More next time.

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