Our Italian Adventure: Our trip to Lourdes

PART 125- It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way.

We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life!

We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year).

Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems that are worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing.

This week let's go to Lourdes together.

Step 2: Why?

When I was a child, my mother was battling cancer, and she expressed a desire to go to Lourdes. As I grew older, I understood the significance of such a trip for her, but I never thought I would have the opportunity to go myself.

One day, after watching a documentary about a yearly gathering of wounded military personnel in Lourdes, my partner—who is not Catholic—said, "I want to go to Lourdes."

That was a few years ago.

Fast-forward to the time we purchased our house in Tuscany. We envisioned using our home as a base for exploring Europe, and France seemed like the easiest destination to reach. I started making plans: Monaco was in 5½ hours, Nice in 6 hours, and Lourdes was a 7½-hour drive from Nice. I suggested, "What if we go to Nice and Lourdes in the fall?" He agreed that it would be a fantastic trip.

Without much effort, everything fell into place for our journey to Lourdes.

As the prospect of driving to Lourdes became a reality, I remembered my mother's longing to go there and her inability to do so. She eventually succumbed to cancer but held on to her faith and hope. In a way, my trip to Lourdes fulfilled her unachieved desire.

Regarding what I hoped to gain from the trip, I decided to remain open to whatever the experience might bring without preconceptions or expectations.

Step 3: The town of Lourdes

Our priest friend from California advised, "Ignore the town and focus on the basilica area. And just be open to whatever the experience brings. " He was absolutely right.

The town of Lourdes gives the impression that it has seen better days. Parts are shabby, featuring shuttered hotels and vacant buildings next to tourist shops and dingy eateries. There is also an abundance of religious goods stores selling everything from plastic statues and resin nativity scenes to cheap T-shirts.

While I've heard some complaints about the religious goods and tourist shops in Lourdes, I don't have any philosophical objections. The residents in this relatively isolated part of France must pay rent, buy food, and support their families. So, who am I to object to their opportunity to sell things tourists want?

We located our Airbnb, found a breakfast spot, stopped by a local grocery store, and then went to the main attraction that puts Lourdes on the map.

Step 4: The basilica area

The first thing that struck me as we entered the Basilica area was its beauty. After making our way through the town, it felt like we had entered a scene from the Wizard of Oz. The bridge leading to the two basilicas in front of us led toward the Grotto of the apparitions. The setting was postcard-perfect, with a hilly forest on one side and a swiftly flowing river on the other.

The area was so vast that we didn't know where to go first. "Let's look at the church with the mosaics," my partner suggested. When we entered the lower basilica, known as the Basilica of the Rosary, we were captivated by the mosaics above the side altars. They had an Art Nouveau style yet felt traditional at the same time. The images depicted stories from the life of Christ, and we were both impressed by the craftsmanship and imagery. I sat down to absorb the atmosphere at one point, feeling a profound sense of peace.

Next, we climbed the stairs to the upper basilica. It was more dramatic on the outside but felt somewhat cluttered inside.

After that, we visited the Grotto of the apparitions, which my mom had longed to see. If you are not familiar with the story of Lourdes, the book and movie "The Song of Bernadette" provide a good overview of the events (https://youtu.be/-6zAoq8tRfI?si=pYtvcgQYPFsRM-rv ).

What I appreciated about the Grotto was that it was still outdoors; anyone could approach it to watch people come and go, participate in a Mass, enter the cave and touch the rock, reflect, pray, or observe out of curiosity. The space is open to all.

We then walked past the crowded bath and spring area, crossed the bridge, and found ourselves in a vast green space. We hiked around and eventually arrived at a series of open-walled chapels where one could light a candle, which I did. I took a moment to remember my mother and my friends who are struggling with illness. I noticed people in wheelchairs around, all bringing their faith and hope to this special spot.

Continuing our exploration, we encountered a gathering of medical professionals, a religious procession, a group of scouts, a large contingent of young volunteers, pilgrimage groups, couples, and individuals.

The amazing thing about the Basilica area is that there is something for everyone, whether religious or not. Visitors can hike up the hill, wander across the green fields, pray at the Grotto, enter the huge underground basilica, or sit by the river and watch.

I believe anyone would feel comfortable at Lourdes, regardless of their background, as long as they are open to the experience.

Step 5: Who was there?

I have a confession: I initially thought Lourdes would be filled with weirdos. However, my stereotypes were shattered as I encountered diverse people during my visit. Some were part of religious groups, others were curious about the experience, and there were many volunteers of all ages.

During the weekend we were there, an international gathering of medical professionals took place, which meant doctors in white coats and nurses were present everywhere.

We also made friends with some of the seasonal employees at our morning café and hotel, who were from Italy.

I was pleased to discover the variety of people at Lourdes. I'm not sure how obvious it was that we're a gay couple, but it didn't seem to concern anyone.

Step 6: What happened at the baths

I wanted to experience the waters at Lourdes but wasn't sure if I could access the bath area. The lines were hundreds of people long, with the sick and infirm taking precedence. By the way, full immersion is no longer the norm. Now, one enters a secluded area—alone or in a group—and is encouraged to say a prayer, wash their hands and face with the water, and drink a bit of it.

Numerous fountains were located next to the bath area, where people filled containers with water or conducted their own private rituals.

After seeing the situation in the bath area, I decided to do my own thing at one of the fountains. However, I remained open to the more formal experience if the line ever got shorter.

The day before leaving Lourdes, I was fighting a cold. After a hike up the hill adjacent to the basilicas, we decided to return to our apartment to rest. I made some hot tea and lay down. Then, around 4 PM, I woke up and looked at the clock, remembering that the baths closed at 4:30. "Do you want to just walk over and take a look?" I suggested to my partner. "Then we can come back here, make dinner, and get ready to leave tomorrow," I continued.

By 4:15, we were approaching the bath area and were astonished to find no line. "It must be closed," my partner said. But we soon realized that, for some uncanny reason, there was no one in line, and the baths were indeed open. "Do you want to come too?" I asked him. "I will come to watch," he replied.

As we awaited our turn, while seated in the waiting area, we started chatting with a volunteer, a man from Minnesota. "It's easy to volunteer here. I usually come for 5-6 days; they put you up in a hotel for 25 euros a night, there's a cafeteria for volunteers, and it's an incredible experience. You might be working next to a doctor on one side and a farmer on the other. Being involved in helping people, especially the sick, really changes your perspective on life…"

There wasn't time to finish the conversation as we were called in and greeted by a kind Australian lady and a Spanish gentleman. She explained the process of washing our hands and face and drinking the water and encouraged us to say a silent prayer. Then, we did it! We decided to be open to the experience, washed in the waters of Lourdes, and both emerged exclaiming, "I can't believe that we got in and were able to do that! It was as if it was meant to be!"

We both felt like we were walking on air as we returned to our apartment. I finally had a sense of completion. What I had unknowingly come to Lourdes for was now accomplished. I could return home with a great sense of peace and fulfillment. My mother's wish was fulfilled.

Step 7: The volunteers

As we were about to exit the basilica area, we noticed the volunteer center on our left. We decided to stop in and ask a few questions before leaving.

We were warmly greeted by two volunteer leaders. We inquired about the logistics of volunteering, and here are some key points they shared:

• They welcome volunteers from all backgrounds and faith experiences. The only requirement is a willingness to help.

• Each volunteer is assigned a team leader, and tasks can range from simple crowd management to accompanying an ill or disabled person seeking to experience the spiritual aspect of Lourdes.

• Training is provided for all volunteers.

• Housing costs approximately 25 euros per night in the on-site volunteer facility, which includes small single rooms with bathrooms. Alternatively, volunteers can arrange their own lodging. There's also a volunteer cafeteria available on-site.

• Volunteers typically help out for 5 to 6 days but they told us that they would be grateful for even 2-3.

• Those who commit to volunteering for 6 days over a period of 4 years (not necessarily consecutive) are offered additional training and greater responsibilities.

The two volunteer leaders we spoke with were professionals: one was a kind Italian man living in Geneva who runs a real estate development company, and the other was a psychologist from Australia. They explained how they had become great friends and made it a point to schedule their volunteering time together.

They shared that volunteering at Lourdes can be a life-changing experience; becoming an integral part of an ill or disabled person's world for several days can profoundly alter one's perspective on life. They recounted some fascinating stories of the various situations they encountered as volunteers.

Many lasting friendships often form among the volunteers. Each of the two leaders brought different motivations to their work: one seeks to help others find meaning in their lives, while the other approaches volunteering from a more spiritual perspective and has already volunteered three times this year, describing the experience as "beautiful." They genuinely encourage anyone interested to become a volunteer, assuring us that it would be an incredible experience.

To sign up or learn more about volunteering, they directed us to this website: https://www.lourdes-france.com/en/benevole/ .

Step 8: Would I return to Lourdes?

The simple answer is yes, as a volunteer.

My experience at Lourdes was filled with unexpected joy. Fulfilling my mother's dream gave me deep gratitude and fulfillment. The opportunity to access the waters more personally at the piscine was a surprising and heartfelt experience that made me feel embraced. Meeting the other volunteers showed me a way to return. Yes, I will be back.

Insights:

Visiting Lourdes can be a unique experience for everyone. For me, the key was to remain open to whatever the journey might bring. My time in Lourdes involved feeling a deep connection to nature as I climbed the hill next to the basilica. I lit a large candle for my loved ones and attended a Mass in French in the beautiful lower basilica. I prayed at the Grotto, walked through the area, and had a personal experience with the waters of Lourdes in the piscine. Sharing all of this with my partner made the experience even more special.

It was…amazing.

More next time.

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