PART 128: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way.
We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life!
We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year).
Step 1: As we explore areas and towns in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing.
This week, let's explore the castle just above our house in our town in Tuscany!
Step 2: Sights.
While walking through our town of Arcidosso, my feet led me to the castle. The front gate was open, so I strolled in and was immediately greeted by a kind historian at the front desk. "How much is it…" I began to ask, but she waved me through. "No fee for you. Please go in and take a look. Perhaps you can tell others how interesting this castle is." Before I could respond, she said, "I've seen you here. How do you like Arcidosso?" I filled her in on our journey, house renovation adventure, and life in two places. "Please," she said, "explore."
It didn't take much urging. The massive stone walls, dating from 860, spoke to me. There was an art exhibition with pieces I liked, but I was more drawn to the history of the place.
As I strolled from room to room, viewing prison cells, meeting halls, and an armory, I was fascinated by the life that had taken place there. I touched the stones and wondered what others thought when they touched the same places or lived within these walls.
I didn't have much time, so I resolved to explore the significant parts of the structure and return with others to learn more.
I began climbing up the tower but then decided that something important should be shared. So I turned back, intending to wait for my partner and other friends to return another time.
I am discovering that the Aldobrandeschi family dominated this area for centuries, which gives meaning to their coat of arms throughout our town.
The Aldobrandeschi were a noble Lombard family who controlled extensive territories in the Maremma and Monte Amiata region during the Middle Ages. This area lies on the border between Tuscany and Lazio, including the Sienese Val d'Orcia. The family dominated the region from the 9th to the 13th century. The family's origins are uncertain but are believed to be linked to the Lombards. Eriprand I is credited as the founder of the family, and his contributions facilitated their social ascent.
The Aldobrandeschi dynasty finally disappeared in 1438 with the death of the last male representative, marking the end of a dynasty that had ruled the region for centuries.
Step 3: History
The earliest confirmed record of a settlement in Arcidosso dates back to 860 when it was documented as a possession of the Abbey of the SS. Savior. The construction of the initial core of the castle, around which the town later expanded, is estimated to have occurred around the year 1000. From the 12th to the 14th century, the town was controlled by the Aldobrandeschi counts and served as a significant military stronghold, providing the final defense against Siena's expansion into the Amiata region.
In 1331, Guidoriccio da Fogliano besieged Arcidosso for four months with a Sienese army of 4,000 infantry and 400 knights, leading to the town's surrender. Arcidosso came under the rule of the Medici family in 1556 and later the Lorena family in 1786. Historically, it has been the most important political and administrative center of Monte Amiata.
The historic center of Arcidosso (where we have our house), one of the most charming areas of the Amiata region, is shaped like a pyramid along the slopes of the hill dominated by the Rocca Aldobrandesca. The fortress's current appearance results from several expansions of the original Lombard construction from the 11th century.
On the complex's northern side, a tower stands taller than the roofs of the surrounding buildings (Palazzo). The top of the tower is adorned with a series of blind arches supported by brackets, which form the base for the battlements above.
Recently restored, the fortress is now used for cultural activities. For a fee, visitors can climb the tower and enjoy a breathtaking view of the summit of Monte Amiata.
Step 5: Cool things.
One of the remarkable aspects of this castle is its pristine condition following restoration. Its living history resonates from the very stones and is thoughtfully curated with a historian at the entrance. However, what I find most impressive about this castle, which dates back to 860, is that it is right at our doorstep—just a five-minute walk away.
How how cool is that?
I will return to this castle repeatedly because the stories embedded in its stones keep calling me back.
Step 6: Sources
Step 7: History coming alive
Before I recently retired, I taught high school history (social studies) for about 25 years. One lesson I learned from my students is that if history cannot be experienced, it becomes just a collection of names and dates. Therefore, we worked to bring history alive in the classroom. For example, we organized a "Walking Tour of Florence," where students visited stations dedicated to key historical sites in the city. On another occasion, we re-enacted scenes from the French Revolution on the playground.
Discovering our local castle truly brought history to life for me.
What fascinates me about the castle in our town is that it exemplifies history as an experience. As I walk through its corridors and touch its stones, I imagine those who once walked these passageways and touched these walls. This connection allows me to engage with their lives and see history as something that not only reaches back into the past but also extends forward, drawing me into its embrace.
I envision the Aldobrandeschi counts, who used the castle as a military fortress. I can picture them running through the corridors, shouting orders to the archers, as military leaders defended their lands against the Sienese invasion in the 1300s. I imagine the eventual surrender of the town and the subsequent takeover by the Medici family. How many tragedies, hopes, and dreams unfolded within these castle walls? I could almost reach out and touch those moments as I laid my hands on the stones.
After leaving the castle, I felt rejuvenated and gained a deeper understanding of our area's history, as well as a greater appreciation for those who lived, worked, fought, dreamed, and even died within the remarkable Aldobrandesco Castle.
More next time.
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I had no idea you lived in such a cool town. Does the castle have a particular name? Or is it just the "local" castle?