top of page

Search Results

187 results found with an empty search

  • Living in an Italian Town Without a Train Station

    PART 156: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then return again in the Spring, and spend the rest of the time in California (as I explained in a previous blog, we only live in Italy for part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing.  This week, we will explore whether living in an Italian town without a train station is a viable option. Step 2: When deciding where to live in Italy, transportation was a major factor. Should we choose a location near a train station, or would we feel comfortable driving? Once we moved to Italy, would we have a car, and if so, would we buy, rent, or lease it? How reliant did we want to be on public transportation, and how much would we depend on a car? These were all important questions to consider as we evaluated our options for living in Italy. Step 3: Beginning in Puglia and transportation As many followers of this blog are aware, we started our journey by living in Puglia. We were situated in a smaller town about a half-hour drive from Lecce, a major city well connected to Rome and other cities by train. Although we didn’t need a car to get from Rome’s airport to our home in Puglia, we quickly learned that having one was essential to truly experience the region. Whether it was seeing the thousand-year-old mosaic floor in Otranto’s cathedral, attending a festa in a hilltop village, or visiting friends who lived in the countryside, a car turned out to be our lifeline. During our time in Puglia, we got comfortable with driving and found some affordable car rental and leasing options (see our blog about having a car in Italy: link ). Although our town in Puglia has a local train station that connects to Lecce, we never used it. We relied on our car for most travel, except for our arrival (from Rome to Lecce) and our departure for California (from Lecce to Rome). Step 4: Next step: Tuscany and transportation Before buying in Tuscany, we’d visited often enough to know that exploring areas like the Val d’Orcia without a car is nearly impossible. Cities like Florence or Siena don’t require driving—if anything, it’s a headache—but our hearts were in the smaller towns: Pienza, Montepulciano, San Quirico, Montalcino. We wanted to wind our way through the rolling hills, vineyards, and medieval villages that buses and trains can’t easily reach. By the time we began house hunting in Tuscany, we were completely comfortable with the idea of driving here. Even living near a train station wouldn’t have changed the fact that most of what we wanted to see would require a car. Step 5: Our Decision: Living Near a Train Station or Not? I understand the appeal of living along a major train route, as it offers easy access for travel, simpler visits from friends, and the option to avoid renting a car. We explored various towns with train stations in the areas we were interested in, but either we didn't like the towns or the housing options were outside of our budget. However, when we removed the requirement for a train station from our housing search, the possibilities expanded significantly. Ultimately, we chose the Monte Amiata area in Tuscany, where the nearest train station, Grosseto, is about 45 minutes away. This area appeals to us due to its proximity to cultural and historical sites, easy access to the Val d'Orcia, and opportunities for an active lifestyle, including hiking, cycling, skiing, and a well-equipped gym. Additionally, the housing options were within our budget parameters. In terms of our town itself, everything we need—shops, supermarkets, a post office, and historical landmarks—is within walking distance from our home. Still, for adventures beyond our immediate surroundings, having a car is essential. Step 6: Regrets? Do we have any regrets about not living near a train station in Italy? It's not that we oppose the idea of living near a train station; it simply never aligned with the towns we were interested in or could afford. Once we found our home in Monte Amiata, we knew it was the right choice for us. Our time in Puglia had already made driving feel natural, so the transition was seamless. We have no regrets at all. Step 7: Should you live in a town without a train station? What works for one person may not work for another, so I can't say whether someone should live in a town in Italy without a train station. If fear of driving is preventing someone from exploring this option, I recommend practicing driving abroad to overcome that fear. If the cost of owning a car in Italy is a concern, consider leasing or long-term rental options. If someone absolutely wants to live in a town along a train route, it’s important to find a town or city that has a train station and also meets their budget and personal criteria. For some individuals, living near a train route is essential, while for others, it is less critical. We have discovered that by letting go of the need for a train station, we have opened ourselves up to many more options, especially in Tuscany, where we are settling down. Insights: Whether or not to live along a train route in Italy depends on personal priorities: budget, lifestyle, travel habits. Our experience is just one example, but I hope it’s helpful for anyone weighing the options. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

  • The Art of Packing for Italy

    PART 149: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems that are worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's explore how purchasing a home in Italy changes how we pack. Step 2: My Goal Once we decided to establish a life in Italy, I set a goal: I wanted to travel between California and Italy without a suitcase. To achieve this goal, needed to stock our home in Tuscany with enough clothes and other supplies to avoid transporting items across the Atlantic. It seems like a realistic goal. How are we progressing? Step 3: Supplies Last year I was traveling to Tuscany to our completed home, and I wanted this to be the only trip during which I would need to bring two large suitcases. The first step was to decide what items I could buy in Italy and what I needed to bring from California so that I could leave all my clothes and supplies I would need at our home in Italy. Here are the steps I went through to figure out what I would or wouldn't need to bring: Clothing: Can I find my size in shoes and apparel in Italy? The short answer is no. No matter what store we went to in Italy, my feet were too big, and Italian men's clothing was too small, so I had to bring summer and winter clothing from the U.S. Toiletries: We all have our favorite toiletries, whether a specific deodorant, soap, face moisturizer, or other products that help us feel clean, fresh, and prepared for the day. I explored various pharmacies and online stores to see if I could find the toiletries I wanted while in Italy. If I couldn't locate the same brands, I discovered equivalent products. This approach allowed me to reduce the number of toiletries I needed to pack in my suitcase. Kitchen Supplies: Most kitchen supplies available in California can also be found in Italy, although some measurements may differ. During the cold months, we like using a crock pot, so we purchased one locally in Italy. We also found the rest of our kitchen supplies there, and having an IKEA nearby was very helpful. Food: While some expats bring food from their home countries to Italy, we chose not to do that—except for brownie mixes. We love our local fruits and vegetables, which taste fresher than we can find in the U.S. The local bakeries are fantastic, the coffee bars are excellent, and the poultry and beef are exceptional. So, why bring any food from the U.S. into Italy? (Except brownie mixes, of course). However, there are times when we crave something familiar... When I lived in Rome in the 1980s, peanut butter was rare, but now it's available in many Italian supermarkets. My partner and I love peanut butter, particularly the thicker variety, which isn't easily found in Italy. Instead, we often spend a little more on an American brand that doesn't run or drip from the bread. "I think I'm going to bring a Costco-sized jar of peanut butter next time," my partner recently said. "That would be great," I replied. However, I'm not planning to pack it in my suitcase. If he brings it over and the jar just sits in our kitchen in Tuscany, I might indulge a little... We haven't really felt the need to bring other foods to Italy. We did bring a box of See's candies for our Italian friends, but they found them too sweet. Brownie mixes are the only exception (the ones with walnuts!). Step 4: The challenge Supplies for Rome It would be simple to travel without any luggage if we were headed straight to our house in Tuscany after landing at the airport. However, since Rome holds a special place in my heart and always draws me back, I always arrive about a week before and spend some time in Rome before and after our stay in Tuscany. This means I have to make do with my small suitcase for about 7 days while I'm in Rome. Supplies in Tuscany The challenge is to carry as little as possible from California to Italy while ensuring I have enough supplies at our place in Tuscany. To help keep track of the supply items I already have in Tuscany (the things I brought over in my 2 huge suitcases last year) and those that I want to bring from the U.S., I've created a Google spreadsheet to organize my packing list. This sheet has columns for items that are "already in Italy" and those I "need to bring." It lists items such as medications, clothing items and some products that are difficult to find in Italy. This list evolves as I run low of supplies in Tuscany and need to bring an item or two. Check list for a week in Rome I have also created a checklist in Google Docs for my travel bag, which will serve as a carry-on for my week in Rome. This checklist includes every item I need for that week, detailing the exact number of socks and shirts to bring. By mapping everything out in advance, I can avoid the time-consuming process of staring at my suitcase and wondering how many pairs of pants to pack. I use this same list for every trip I take. I then add the items from my spreadsheet for Tuscany to my carry-on list, and I am set for the next trip! As our return to Italy approaches, I've streamlined my packing to just one carry-on. I included enough essential clothing for a week and basic toiletries to last a couple of days until I can shop in Rome for the rest. Additionally, I'm bringing a few items from my spreadsheet that I plan to leave in Tuscany, as I'm running low on them. There's no longer a need to check a bag. Step 5: Mission accomplished? Although my goal was to bring nothing back across the Atlantic, I couldn't achieve that due to my week-long stopovers in Rome. However, fitting my CPAP machine, clothing, and a few essential toiletries into one carry-on bag is a significant step forward. Exiting the plane without waiting for checked baggage is a fantastic feeling. Step 6: Having confidence in our life in Italy Learning to travel lighter is closely linked to building confidence in our life in Italy. Things will be different, and that's perfectly okay. We will find what we need and learn to adapt; it's all part of the adventure. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

  • Am I a dreamer or a doer?

    PART 153: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then return again in the Spring, and spend the rest of the time in California (as I explained in a previous blog, we only live in Italy for part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing.  This week, let's explore whether I am someone who dreams of moving to Italy or someone who actually does it. Step 2: Qualities of a Dreamer Visionary Thinking: Dreamers envision possibilities and possess a broad outlook on the future. They see the bigger picture and set long-term goals. Strong Vision: They have a vision of what they want to achieve in the future. Creative and Imaginative: Dreamers often have vivid imaginations and draw inspiration from new and innovative ideas. Motivated by Passion: They are driven by a desire to create something meaningful and impactful. Step 3: Qualities of a Doer Action-Oriented: Doers focus on taking action and accomplishing tasks. Detail-Oriented: They focus on the specific steps and details required to achieve their goals. Persistent: Doers are willing to put in the effort and work hard to overcome challenges. Practical: They concentrate on making things happen in the real world. Step 4: Living in Italy: Dreamers and Doers I can't count how many times friends and acquaintances have said, "I wish we could do what you're doing!" I always feel like responding, "You can; just take a small step." Many of us aspire to a bigger life. I remember when I worked for a nonprofit in Washington, DC, sitting in my cubicle and dreaming of a different life in a different place. Back then, I had no idea how to change my circumstances, so dreaming helped me cope. Two significant events shifted me from being a dreamer to becoming a doer: 1. I became increasingly determined to have a bigger life. I had my career, friendships, routines, and a stable life in the U.S., but that wasn't enough. I wanted more. 2. I lost several close friends who passed away before their time. This made me recognize that life is short, and if I keep postponing my dreams, I may never achieve them. Step 5: Is anything wrong with dreaming? Dreaming is often the first step toward taking action: I can't reach a goal or complete a task without first envisioning it. There's nothing wrong with dreaming, and it can sometimes help us navigate difficult circumstances. However, dreaming becomes an obstacle when it replaces taking action. Unless I am willing to turn my dream into reality, it will remain only in my mind. So, how can I take the next steps toward something as daunting as moving to Italy? Step 6: Baby steps and chunking I taught high school social studies in Los Angeles for 25 years, and one important lesson I learned from my students was the practice of "chunking." "Mr., I can't do this! It's too hard!" was a phrase I often heard during my early years of teaching. Since my approach was project-based, some projects were extensive, such as creating an illustrated booklet about World War II. Many students felt intimidated and believed they couldn't master the task. Then, I discovered the technique of "chunking." This involves breaking the project into smaller, manageable parts. "All you have to accomplish today is to write two paragraphs about the beginnings of World War II, using the outline I will provide and your notes." By dividing the larger project into bite-sized pieces and setting daily goals, rather than facing the entire assignment at once, my students completed their booklets with ease. In fact, we even visited a middle school where the students presented their booklets individually to the younger students. This same method can be applied to establishing a life in Italy. Eventually, we realized that we didn't need to understand every aspect of living in Italy right away. Instead, we could take small steps and learn along the way. We could "chunk it." Step 7: All or nothing Our journey began with a two-week trip to Italy during my winter break. This allowed us to explore different areas of interest, and we decided to start our Italian adventure in Puglia, where our friends live part-time. We later returned for two months during the summer, and then we leased a place for a year. During this time, we realized two important things: First, it didn't have to be all or nothing; we could live in Italy for part of the year while maintaining our residency in California. This arrangement better suited our commitments than a complete move. While our time in Puglia was wonderful, primarily because of our local friends, it felt too much like Southern California for us. We didn't travel all the way to Italy just to replicate our Californian lifestyle. Therefore, we searched for an area in Tuscany that better aligned with our interests and desires for history, culture, and more, and ultimately, we decided to buy a house there. Step 8: Making it happen and learning along the way Stepping out of the dream and into reality meant taking a small step: coming to Italy for two weeks and staying in the area we were interested in. The next step was to stay for an entire summer. During our first two years of establishing a life in Italy, we rented a place. Purchasing our home in Tuscany felt like a logical next step rather than a radical leap. Taking it one step at a time worked for us, helping us turn our dreams into reality. Could this approach also work for you? More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

  • Lessons Learned During Our Tuscan Home Renovation Journey

    PART 151: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's stay closer to home and reflect on some things we are learning as we renovated our house in Tuscany. Step 2: Contractor and architect and local codes We began our renovation project in Tuscany, thinking that, similar to our previous renovation in California, we simply needed a contractor to start the work. As the house is in a historical center, we assumed that we wouldn't need any approvals or permits as long as we didn't alter the exterior. We soon realized we were mistaken; we had to file paperwork before we could begin. Our contractor mentioned, "I have an architect I've worked with for years. He can handle the paperwork and obtain the necessary approvals for you." We learned that either an architect or a "geometra" , is essential for researching local building codes and managing the paperwork needed to initiate major renovations on a property. We also discovered that working with an architect with a good relationship with the contractor can significantly streamline the process. Our architect was reasonably priced compared to the costs in California. He conducted inspections before, during, and after the work, ensuring everything complied with local codes. The paperwork was submitted to government office in Grosseto, and he got it approved within a few days. When it comes to finding a reliable architect, "geometra" or contractor, recommendations from realtors or local friends are the best resources. Fortunately, we were referred to an excellent architect and contractor who performed quality work at a reasonable price. Remember: things work more smoothly and quickly in Italy through relationships. Step 3: Looking for materials: Speciality shops versus big box stores like Tecnomat When we started renovating our house in Tuscany, we asked our contractor to source all the materials for us, including tiles, vanities, showers, and lighting, as we were unfamiliar with where to find supplies in Italy. After spending a few days on-site, we discovered a mix of specialty shops and big-box stores in our area of Tuscany. It seemed that in Italy, at least in our part of Tuscany, there were either expensive specialty shops offering a wide range of products—from tiles to custom bathrooms—or large big-box stores, with little in between. We decided to refine some of our contractor's choices and see if we could build our renovation project around a selected color palette and theme while keeping in budget. Initially, we visited the specialty shops and found some unique tiles for our kitchen backsplash that complemented our chosen decor color of green. However, we noticed that some of the smaller specialty stores dramatically increased our budget for showers, bathroom vanities, faucets, lighting, and other renovation materials. We set out to find sources for general renovation materials, such as showers, faucets, sinks, toilets, and more. We discovered Tecnomat, which is Italy's closest equivalent to Home Depot. We drove to the location near Florence to explore their selection and look for shower tiles that we needed for the next day. To our pleasant surprise, we found a wide variety of options and were able to select the right color and size. Additionally, we came across good-quality toilets, mirrors, vanities, and faucets that could be useful for future renovation projects. We concluded that Tecnomat is an excellent source of essential renovation materials. Step 4: Swapping out a kitchen We found that we could replace our kitchen, including all the appliances, for less than it would cost in the U.S. In Italy, it's common to purchase a complete kitchen package that includes cabinets and appliances, often with installation included. Deciding to install a new kitchen was an easy choice for us. Step 5: Ordering materials and waiting In our region of Tuscany, several independently owned home and builder supply stores exist. Most materials, such as tiles, showers, sinks, and toilets, must be ordered rather than readily available in stock. We initially assumed that everything displayed in the stores would be in stock, but this was often untrue. As a result, work sometimes had to stop while we waited for orders to arrive. In the future, understanding this situation will help us submit orders well before we need the materials from local suppliers. Step 6: Visiting Ikea is helpful During our renovation, we realized that the bathroom we were designing lacked sufficient storage. The existing bathroom had no drawers or cabinets, and the flat wall mirror provided no extra space for our bathroom supplies. We visited a local builders' supply store to explore various vanities and storage options, but we couldn't find anything that suited our design or needs. "I don't want to step into an IKEA in Italy!" I told my partner months earlier. However, we needed storage ideas and didn't know where else to go. Fortunately, the trip was helpful, as it gave us ideas even if we decided to purchase elsewhere. While exploring the model bathrooms at IKEA, we came up with great solutions to create more storage in our space. In fact, we decided to cancel the order for the bathroom vanity we had initially placed with our local building supply store and found a different option elsewhere that offered ample storage. Whether you choose to purchase or not, visiting IKEA is a fantastic way to browse and gather ideas for a renovation. Step 7: Local stores and Amazon I prioritize supporting local stores over big box retailers or Amazon. Down the street from us in our town, there is an electronics store where we bought our clothes dryer, toaster, and a shop vacuum. When we need materials for our renovation, we first explore local businesses. If they don't have what we're looking for, we head to Tecnomat. If we still can't find it there, we go to Amazon. We recently needed to replace the lighting fixtures in our home but couldn't find anything that matched the modern Tuscan style we were trying to achieve at our local stores. The options available either appeared too old-fashioned or too "space age" modern. In the end, we turned to Amazon, where we easily found lighting fixtures that suited the style of our house. If anything arrived and looked different than expected, we returned it to Amazon through our local post office. Our rule of thumb is to first check local businesses, then big box stores, and lastly, Amazon. As we embark on our journey of building a life in Italy and renovating our house in Tuscany, we are learning valuable lessons along the way. One of the most important discoveries we've made is that relationships matter and referrals are essential. We now view this process as an adventure rather than merely something to endure. More next time. SECOND EDITION NOW ON SALE FOR $2.99! "She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome." https://a.co/d/4Bx0Eh3 . Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

  • How Long Should We Stay in Italy?

    PART 3: I thought it might be of interest to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We are in Puglia until the end of September, then back again in the winter. The title of this posting is: citizenship, Visa or Passport? Step 1: Our first step was to decide how long we want to be in Italy initially. From our research, we discovered that, with a US passport, the formula is, more or less, 90 days in and then 90 days out. Step 2: But should we want to stay longer what are our options? Since neither of us qualify for Italian citizenship, our next option was applying for a visa. Since I just recently retired, I could qualify for the elective visa, which we will look into in the future. Step 3: How long? Our choice is to remain in Italy for part of the year and in California for the other part, due to our ties and obligations. But how long would we stay each time? This was the nagging question. Step 4: Decisions. We decided to do a trial run of three months, a little shy of 90 days, as our initial stay. This seems wiser to us than a complete plunge. For this, we would only need our passports and not a visa. Step 4: Future questions. We decided to take our life in Italy one step at a time. So far, our life here has been amazing. I may apply for a visa in the future, but for right now, coming on a passport for 90 days is a great beginning way to experience life here as a resident. Watch for my book coming out later in the year: "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy". More next time.

  • Searching for American Foods in Italy

    PART 46: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the Summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: I lived in Italy for eight years in the 1980s, and now we are returning, living in Puglia following the 90 days in/out model (see previous blog). Peoples, cultures, and practices evolve, including the emergence of American foods in Italy. Examining some foods that have entered the Italian mainstream might be fun. Step 2: The pancake. I was in our grocery store in Puglia recently, looking at all the packages of cookies that I shouldn't be buying. One package caught my eye since it was labeled "pancakes." Of course, I picked it up and squeezed it. Yep, cooked pancakes inside wrapped in cellophane. I called my partner over and showed him with a curious expression. We went for coffee the following week, and I saw pancakes on the menu, so I ordered them. A few minutes later, I had a nice stack of 3 pancakes with maple syrup, nuts, and bananas in front of me. When I squeezed the bag of pancakes in the grocery store and then ordered them at our cafe, the pancakes had a similar feel of density. The pancakes were not light and fluffy but were much firmer than what I am used to, having been made beforehand. I have seen cooked pancakes stacked up and pre-prepared, in fact, in several cafes. In conclusion, the pancake has entered the mainstream in Italy, but it is a different take. I don't find pancakes in Puglia better or worse than the fluffier type I am used to since they are a different type of product adapted to another kind of taste. I am glad that I can appreciate both. Step 3: Peanut butter. I love my peanut butter but hate the kind that separates into a layer of oil. Personal preference. When I lived in Rome in the 1980s, the seminary supplied us with peanut butter (shipped in from Africa) because of the number of Americans. But then, one day during a conference, the priest in charge claimed it caused cancer, so the peanut butter stopped. We suspected the real reason was the expense; he wanted to reduce the budget, so he made a story to cover his tracks. Fast forward to now; we can find peanut butter in just about every supermarket we have set foot in here in Puglia. But in our experience, stores tend to carry less expensive Italian brands with a layer of oil, or Skippy, which spreads easier. What is the downside? Skippy peanut butter is expensive. Our solution: buy the Skippy but stop putting gobs of it on a sandwich as we do back in California. If I have to spread thinner to keep getting my Skippy, I will do that! Step 4: Doughnuts. When I lived in Italy in the 1980s, I saw donuts at most bars and cafes; they were always sugar donuts. I am not a big donut eater, but occasionally, I would enjoy a fresh Italian donut with a crunchy sugary crust. What about the American version of donuts, covered with maple, vanilla, pink, blue, and almost every other color and flavor of frosting? Back in California, there are so many choices that sugar donuts get hidden by the maple bars and strawberry-filled jellies. Back to Italy: I've always felt a sense of pride that Italy seemed to have stood fast and stuck with the simple but fresh sugar donut. But alas, all things change. I counted at least five different frosting colors on the donuts at the bakery in our supermarket. I saw the increased variety as a setback rather than progress. Why can't we stick to the delicious fresh sugar donuts, which depend more on simple, fresh ingredients rather than crazy-colored frostings? Give me my plain sugar donut, please. Step 5: Coca-cola and milk. Years ago, a family I knew invited me to a formal lunch at their home in southern Italy. When we sat down, everyone except me had a wine glass on the table. In front of my dish was placed a can of Coke. Since I was friends with this family, I laughed out loud. "But don't you always drink Coca Cola?" one of my hosts asked. "I haven't drunk a Coke in years!" I replied. "What do you drink with your meals?" they asked. I thought for a moment. "Well, water, juice, or sometimes, when I have a sandwich for lunch, a glass of milk." You can guess what happened next. "Milk! Milk???? Milk with a meal????" I still hear about that one. Coca-cola has been mainstream in Italy for decades; the first bottle produced in the country was in 1927. It is a popular beverage, as evidenced by various varieties in stores. The stereotype that Americans drink Coke a lot still has some remnants here. Some do, but others stick to water, juices, and other beverages. I have to make a confession: recently, the longer I am in Puglia, the more often I ask for a Coke Zero, whereas in California, I rarely touch it. Why is that? As far as drinking a glass of milk with a sandwich for lunch…well, my local friends still think I'm crazy when I do that. But I like my milk. What can I say? Insights: American foods working their way into Italian culture can be gratifying, amusing, or regrettable. (I hope junk food doesn't replace the incredible cuisine here.) It can be interesting to trace the influence of cultures through foods and appreciate what is unique to certain areas; it helps one understand that the intermingling of cultures can have many positive, negative, or neutral effects. More next time. SECOND EDITION NOW ON SALE FOR $2.99!  “She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome.” https://a.co/d/4Bx0Eh3 .  Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

  • Exploring the Secrets of Monte Amiata: The Knights Templar and Tuscany

    PART 83: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. This week, let's explore the Knights Templar in the Monte Amiata area of Tuscany. Step 2: Who were the Templars? The Knights Templar was a military order in the Middle Agrs that followed a monastic lifestyle and was trained in combat to protect Christian holy sites and pilgrims in the Middle East and other places. They were a significant and elite part of the Crusader armies, with their headquarters first in Jerusalem and then in Acre, near Haifa in Israel. The Order was founded in 1118 and "stopped functioning" in 1312. They were actually suppressed because of others' jealousy and greed, but that is another story. Step 3: History of Templars in Tuscany Tuscany was one of the wealthiest and most advanced economies in western Christendom, and the trade routes between East and West passed through it, as did the pilgrimage routes to Rome and the Adriatic ports for embarkation to the East. From receiving their first donation in Tuscany in 1138, the Knights Templar built an impressive network of receiving houses connecting the cities of Florence, Siena, Pisa, and the coast. Maremma region in Tuscany Routes to Maremma's hills and the coast from Florence to Poggibonsi and San Gimignano converged with those from Siena at Frossini, north of Massa Marittima. There are eleven verified Templar buildings in Tuscany, four of which are in the Maremma Grossetana area: the Church of Mercy in Grosseto, the Magione of San Salvatore in Grosseto, the Pieve di Santa Cristina and Ospedaletto in Rochette Fazio, and the Pieve Santa Mustiola at Sticciano. Numerous places in Maremma and greater Tuscany are believed to have a connection to the Templars. Local legends and the symbolism that can still be seen today on doors and walls strongly suggest this connection, but there is no solid evidence for many of the sites. Step 4: The Templars and the Maremma The Templars exact location in Maremma is not well documented as they were exempted from paying taxes by Pope Innocent II; thus, their presence is not found in administrative documents. However, as stated above, various symbols can be attributed to the Templars along the main communication routes of that time. These symbols provided reference points for pilgrims, who could receive the message that they were safe and protected and on the right path. Some of the places in Maremma where these symbols can be found include San Rabano in Alberese, San Martino in Magliano, S. Pietro e Paolo in Sovana, the village of Rocchette di Fazio, S. Salvatore in Istia, and throughout Arcidosso. Step 5: Templar symbolism found in the area The primary emblem of the Order of the Temple was the Patent Cross, which had arms that widened at the ends and was used to identify the Templar members. The word ""patent"" comes from the Latin ""patentem,"" which means enlarged. In addition to the Patent Cross, the Templars used various symbols to allude to their mission and beliefs. These symbols can be found throughout the village of Arcidosso and in its parish church. Step 6: The Templars and Arcidosso (our town!) Arcidosso is a village situated on Mount Amiata connected to the Knights Templar. The town is rich in symbols frequently used by the Order of Soldier Monks. Around the year 1000, Arcidosso was ruled by the Aldobrandeschi family, one of the most powerful families of the Middle Ages. During that time, the Maremma territory, like much of Europe, was perilous due to the presence of pirates and bandits. Hence, it was crucial to protect both the population and the pilgrims traveling to the Holy Land. To achieve this, the Templars were established to safeguard the roads the pilgrims used. Initially, the Order consisted of a few knights known as ""Poor companions in arms of Christ and of the Temple of Solomon."" Later, the Templar Order grew, and their protection was extended to the major routes used by pilgrims, such as the Via Francigena and through the town of Arcidosso. Step 7: Hunting for Templar Symbols in Arcidosso Taking a stroll through Arcidosso village, one cannot miss the mysterious Templar symbols on buildings, the castle, and churches like San Leonardo. Church of San Leonardo The Church of San Leonardo is situated in a medieval square, the convergence point of several alleys. On the church's left side is a rectory displaying the coat of arms of the Abbey of San Salvatore. Beside the rectory was a hostel that used to provide pilgrims refuge. The original door is located on the short side of the building, beneath the arch. Even though it is blocked up, the arch of the door bears the symbol of the Agnus Dei (a lamb with a cross), representing Christ. On the right side of the supporting column of the entrance portal of the church, at the height of a person's face, you can see the patent Templar cross. In an alley behind the church, on a cornerstone of the wall, underneath the electrical wires, there is an inscription, believed to be from the 16th century, that contains several alchemical symbols, such as a circle with a point, which represents the sun, and a triangle with the points downwards, which represents water. On the jamb of a window, on the other side of the same building, there is the symbol of a fish and a patent cross. There seems to be a convergence of Templar and alchemical symbols in Arcidosso. Via Talassese and Clock Tower Via Talassese is one of the main streets in the village. Several shops lined the road, as indicated by symbols on the buildings. For instance, a horseshoe can be seen above a former blacksmith shop. On the arch of a window on this street, you can see a circle with rays, an alchemical symbol of the sun. In 1200, the Aldobrandeschi constructed Porta di Mezzo as an entrance to Via Talassese. Later, Porta di Mezzo was remodeled during the rule of the Republic of Siena with the addition of the clock tower. Palazzo Giovannini, the home of one of the families closely associated with the Medici, is located near Porta di Mezzo, or Clock Tower, along Via Talassese. The portal was added in the style of a diamond-pointed symbol to add prestige to this family's important building. A particularly significant alchemical symbol can be seen in the stone coat of arms at the corner of the building: a seven-pointed star or the heptagram. The heptagram on the Palazzo Giovannini The heptagram represents Venus in cosmology. However, the number seven is also seen as the number of perfection and the number of life, where matter meets spirit. It is also the alchemical number of the seven elements (air, fire, water, earth, life, light, and magic) and the seven planets (sun, moon, Mars, Mercury, Jupiter, Venus, and Saturn). Seven is also a significant biblical number. The significance of the heptagram here is still under debate, as are many other Templar images found in the area. The intriguing open question is: why is there a convergence of Templar and alchemical symbols throughout the town of Arcidosso? (That could be a great topic for somebody's dissertation!) Step 8: Sources: https://persaperilmondo.com/arcidosso-e-templari/ . World History Encyclopedia. Insights: Uncovering proof of the existence of the Knights Templar in Tuscany sounds like a chapter straight out of "The Da Vinci Code." However, the focus here is on historical facts rather than fiction. Regardless of one's personal beliefs about the Templars, they were an intriguing society of the past whose remnants still exist today for curious individuals to discover. Their symbols and legacy continue to be researched and debated by scholars and enthusiasts alike. More next time. Now on sale for $2.99: My book is ""Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy."" Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRKMKPWF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_X2WRQ3PTG2ZDD7AVF6GH And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/dp/8865318236?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_5KEAN2PWRTHQQ0X1PMTP

  • Do I need an Italian bank account to purchase a house in Italy?

    PART 84: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: We recently bought a house in Italy (Tuscany) and were given unclear information about whether we needed a bank account in Italy to purchase a house. I am not setting myself up as an expert in this area, but I am happy to share some of our experiences. Step 2: Do I need a bank account in Italy? The simple answer is: No. Down payment: I can wire the down payment directly from my bank to the seller's bank to purchase a house in Italy. Balance of purchase: When it comes time to pay the balance, I can wire the remainder to the bank of the Italian Notary handling the sale. Step 3: What about the Fiscale Code (codice fiscale)? IIt is mandatory to have an Italian tax code for several activities, such as opening an Italian bank account, starting an Italian court dispute, buying or inheriting an Italian property, registering a preliminary contract for a property purchase, getting Wifi installed, applying for a utility connection or applying for an Italian mortgage. When my partner and I decided to purchase a property in Italy, I had already applied for my fiscal code through an Italian consulate in the US. However, after a month, I still hadn't heard anything back. I started to get nervous because the purchase date was approaching. Our realtor told us that they could obtain a codice fiscale much quicker. We decided to let the realtor take over the process, and we obtained our fiscal codes within a week. Step 4: Is it BETTER to have an Italian bank account set up before purchasing a home in Italy? The overwhelming answer is: YES! We returned to the United States after our offer on the house was accepted without opening an Italian bank account. We chose to wire the money to a notary and let him handle the transaction. However, we soon discovered that the process of closing the sale on the house can be more complicated without an Italian bank account. Here are some of the challenges we faced: Firstly, we had to wire money to several banks: The down payment to the owner's bank The balance of the cost of the house to another bank The taxes and notary expenses to another bank Each wire from a US bank would have fees and/or lower than market exchange rates. Secondly, I wanted to wire the balance of the house payment from my investments instead of directly from a bank. However, I found out that it can take weeks to get approval from an investment firm for a third-party payment (wiring the money to a bank account that is not mine). I had to change my strategy since I only had a few weeks before the closing. I had the investment firm wire the money to my US bank account, and then I had my bank wire it to Italy. However, like most others, my bank didn't give me a great exchange rate, and I didn't have enough time to learn how to use services like Wise or other transfer services. Finally, fees are attached to a notary handling the final payment for the house rather than the buyer bringing a certified check from the bank. Despite these challenges, we overcame them all and successfully closed on the house. Step 5: How to open an Italian bank account: Can I do it online? It has been said that opening a bank account in Italy online is possible. Before purchasing our house, while we were in Rome a few days before returning to California, I visited the bank's website and filled out the questionnaire. I thought it would be an easy process and that we would have our bank account before buying the house. However, I encountered a question that required me to scan in my Tessera Sanitaria, or Italian health insurance card. Since we were not residents, we did not have one. Fortunately, there are branches of this bank all over Rome. I took my computer, walked to the branch and explained the problem. "You don't need to be a resident of Italy to open a bank account. However, you do need to be a resident to open an account online. You just need your passport to open an account in person," they told me. Therefore, to open an online bank account, you must be a registered resident of Italy. Otherwise, you must do it in person. One requirement of opening up a bank account in Italy is supplying the bank with an Italian address of residence. Since we had been renting a home in Puglia, this wasn’t a problem for us. In fact, the bank told me that I could supply the address of the home we were purchasing, even though we hadn’t closed on it yet.  Step 6: Opening an account in a different city. At the same bank in Rome, I asked, "So can I just open an account here and then access it from Tuscany, where we will live?" The bank employee shook her head. "In theory, yes, you can access your funds anywhere. But I would strongly suggest you open your account in the town where you will be living. Otherwise, you will not have access to some of the bank services you may need." In California, my bank is in Los Angeles, and I live in Palm Springs; I have access to all bank services everywhere. But, according to the banks in Italy that I consulted, opening one's account in the city of residence is always recommended to access all of the bank's services. Step 7: What about utilities? Based on what my expat friends have told me, there are a few options to pay for utilities in Italy. You can pay in person, use PayPal, or pay through your bank. However, the most convenient way to manage your utility payments in Italy is by connecting them to your Italian bank account and setting up automatic payments. This will help avoid any issues that may arise from missed payments due to an oversight, such as a lost email or a mistake made while using PayPal. To avoid any potential issues with our utility payments, our realtor has helped us set up automatic payments. Step 8: Opening the account in our town We just arrived in Tuscany to finalize the purchase of our house. We transferred the money for the purchase to the Notary, who did an excellent job guiding us through the closing process. The next day, I visited a local branch of Intesa San Paolo, a well-known Italian bank, to open my first bank account in Italy. The account opening process took two days but was effortless and straightforward. The day after opening the account, I wired money from the US to the account to make paying for home renovations more manageable. Having an Italian bank account has made money transfers, bill payments, and obtaining euros much more convenient. I regret not having done it sooner. Insights: We are gradually discovering what life in Italy is like and adapting as we go. Despite making mistakes along the way, we try to learn from them. We always seek guidance from locals and draw insights from our experiences. The process would have been smoother if we had opened an Italian bank account before buying a house. Now that we have a local bank account, paying bills and handling other expenses has become much easier. More next time. Now on sale for $2.99: My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRKMKPWF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_X2WRQ3PTG2ZDD7AVF6GH Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

  • Uncovering the Beauty: Exploring the Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore in Italy

    PART 88: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas and towns in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. This week, let's explore an abbey dating from 1319. Step 2: History The Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore, located in Tuscany, is a Benedictine monastery founded in 1319 by three Senese noblemen who decided to embrace the Benedictine way of life. The monastery comprises different buildings from the 1300s to the 1700s and is built around three cloisters of various sizes. The Great Cloister is home to frescoes of the Life of St. Benedict, painted by Luca Signorelli and Giovanni Bazzi (Il Sodoma). The church, which dates back to the 1400s, showcases artworks by Il Sodoma and a magnificent wooden inlaid choir by Giovanni da Verona. The Middle and Small Cloisters are currently not open to visitors. However, the Monastic Library houses around 40,000 volumes and is accessible via stairs decorated with frescoes by Sodoma. The church is designed like a Latin cross and was renovated in the Baroque style in 1772. The main attraction is the amazing wooden inlaid choir, which dates from 1505. Behind the main altar is a painting of the Assumption, dating from 1598, and there is also a dramatic 14th-century wooden Crucifix in the Sacrament Chapel. Step 3: Visiting and what not to miss After parking your vehicle, you can reach the Abbey by walking through a fortified medieval building with a square tower and a drawbridge. The entrance to the building features a stunning glazed terracotta Madonna and Child, which is likely a product of the famous Della Robbia family. The building now houses a restaurant and bar with an outside terrace. After leaving the entrance building, you will proceed down a long avenue flanked by cypress trees. About halfway down the avenue, you will find a sizeable 16th-century fish pool, and at the end of the avenue, you will see the Abbey itself. When you visit the Abbey, be sure not to miss the inlaid choir inside the Abbey church. The great cloister's frescoes are the Abbey's real attraction. Thirty-five frescoes cover the entire surface of the four sides of the cloister. These frescoes depict the life of St. Benedict and are considered masterpieces of the Italian Renaissance due to their incredibly vivid colors and rich details. The paintings offer a fascinating look at the life and landscape of the time. Step 4: Our experience I enjoy living monasteries. It makes me feel empty if I visit an abbey or monastery that has been abandoned, even if it is filled with great artwork. So when our local friend informed us that this monastic community had been present at the Abbey since the 1300s and that about 30 monks were in the community who chanted their prayers every day, with their culminating event, the Gregorian Chant Mass, on Sundays, I was excited to go and visit. I was surprised by the vast grounds, the beauty of the woods lining the path to the Abbey, and the peacefulness of the place. When we entered the church, the organ filled the space with incredible music, the monks were preparing for the service, and the fantastic architecture and the inlaid choir stalls were striking. Regarding the Gregorian Chant service, I realized that it is not entertainment. The music developed in the 9th and 10th centuries and is more subtle than "in your face." I had to settle into it and stop my mind from trying to understand the words. Once I allowed myself to be carried by the chant, I was in another world. On that particular day, we had to go to Florence for an errand, so we skipped the cloister frescos. We had seen them a few years before but resolved to return in a few weeks to give them the focus they deserve. When we walked out of the church, the first thing I said to my partner was: "What do you think if we would come here once a month?" It was that type of experience; it keeps drawing you back. Step 5: Cool things The pharmacy The monastery pharmacy continues its tradition of preparing herbal remedies for body health. One of the liqueurs available at the pharmacy is La Flora di Monte Oliveto, a blend of 23 herbs that have been infused for more than six months according to the recipe of the ancient pharmacy of the Abbey. Wine cellar In the upper courtyard, on the side of the church, there is a shop that sells souvenirs and products from the Abbey's farm. Try the herbal liqueur, which is believed to have curative properties. It's highly recommended that you visit the wine cellar located below the cloister. Here, you can witness giant wine barrels containing wine produced from selected vineyards in the surrounding area and taste the wines with the guidance of an expert. The guest house According to the thousand-year-old Benedictine tradition, the monks at Oliveto provide accommodation at their guesthouse next to the abbey church. The guesthouse has twenty-five rooms and is modern, clean, and inviting. The restaurant/cafe A historic restaurant run by the Giustarini family is located at the main entrance of the Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore. The family specializes in Tuscan cuisine. You can savor a variety of delicious dishes such as ribollita, croutons, cold cuts, cheeses (including the authentic Tuscan pecorino), and flavorful meats. The restaurant's atmosphere is warm and welcoming, making you feel right at home. On sunny days and during summer, you can enjoy your meal at the outdoor tables under the umbrellas. The evening atmosphere resembles the past, with flavors, sounds, and lights transporting you back in time. The land The monastery today is surrounded by picturesque countryside, which boasts cultivated fields, vineyards, olive trees, and woods. The monks residing here have been engaged in agriculture since the 1300s and have produced various products such as olive oil, wines, cereals, and liquors. These products are available at the monastery itself or can be purchased online. The monks generate their income through these activities. The drive to Florence After attending the Sunday service, we had to go to Tecnomat in Florence. So, we put on our GPS and started driving through the rolling hills. I am mentioning the drive because as soon as we left the monastery grounds, it felt like we were driving through some fantasy land for the next hour or so. The rolling green hills and stone houses looked like something out of a dream. We were so enchanted by the beauty of the place that we decided to take our visitors on the same drive after a visit to the Abbey. Step 6: Link https://www.monteolivetomaggiore.it Insights: Experiencing a living monastery is more than touring an ancient series of buildings representing something from the past. Visiting the Abbey of Monte Oliveto was like stepping into another world that still exists today, being renewed by it, and returning to daily life. As we drove through the hills to Tecnomat outside Florence, we knew we would revisit the Abbey because the experience was too beautiful to be had only once. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

  • Buying a Kitchen in Italy

    PART 96: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Let's explore how we bought a kitchen in Italy. Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we are discovering some gems that are worth sharing. Some of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. Previous kitchen/before photo This week, let's focus on living in Italy and what we learned about swapping out our kitchen for a new one. Step 2: At the beginning of our Italian adventure, we thought we would settle in Puglia, where many of our friends live and where the lifestyle is similar to that of southern California. So, after renting for a year, we made an offer on a house. Though the offer didn't work out, we learned a lot, especially about kitchens in Italy. Step 3: We worked with a realtor in Puglia and crafted the offer to stipulate what we wanted included in the sale, including the kitchen. The kitchen was a bit dated, but we couldn't afford to install a new one immediately. The seller responded that they would consider our offer but that they would not leave their kitchen. When we asked the realtor why, she said, "It was a wedding present, so they want to take it with them." We were like, "huh?" The realtor went on to explain that it is common practice to remove the kitchen when a house is sold because it often has sentimental value. "But," we objected, "we can't afford 12-15,000 euro for a new kitchen!" The realtor laughed. "Kitchens don't have to cost that much in Italy!" We learned that she was right. Step 4: Fast-forward to when we bought our house in Tuscany. At a certain point, we realized that the historical kitchen wouldn't work for us and that we needed to find out what a new kitchen would cost. We consulted with our local friends and realtor, who directed us toward a few large national chain stores; the most well-known is Mondo Convenienza. Our friend told us, "There you can find affordable but nice kitchens that include all the appliances!" But we were more familiar with Ikea kitchens, so we went there first. Step 5: Our Ikea experience in Florence There was something comforting and familiar about walking through the kitchen displays at the Ikea in Florence. They seemed so affordable, with signs displaying things like "950 euro, including appliances, "or "All this for 1,500 euro!" We set up the planning appointment at Ikea, provided our measurements, and met with a planner online from our home. She quickly devised a design but didn't seem to hear some of our wants. "We want the stove to be between the sink and the dishwasher because there is a window that we don't want the stove in front of," we said. "Oh, we can't do that," she said as she proceeded. Then she asked if we wanted assembly included and a few other questions about the wood countertop, etc. Previous kitchen Ultimately, we didn't get the kitchen design we wanted, and the price was way over what we wanted to spend. What happened to the "All this for 1,500 euro" kitchen? It wasn't a reality. Step 6: Other kitchen stores We decided to follow our local friend's advice and headed over to Mondo Convienza to take a look. This store has kitchens, furniture, lighting, and other household amenities. We found their furniture bulky and lighting fixtures old-fashioned, but their kitchens looked sleek and modern with prices starting at around 1,700 euro. Within 15 minutes, they accommodated us with a designer. Step 7: Design, delivery, and installation We walked through the store and found a kitchen that we liked. After we provided the measurements, the designer developed a great design with all the basics. But the sink was too small, and the faucet was ugly. We upgraded the sink and stove and said that we would provide our own kitchen faucet. Installation? Yes. Do you need a plumber to do the hookups? No, we have our own. New kitchen So, our sleek kitchen, including a dishwasher, oven with induction cooktop, large sink, and modern cabinets with countertops, cost a fraction of what it would have back in the US, even with the upgrades. We ordered the kitchen, and the following month, it was installed with no glitches. Step 8: What we learned. When buying a house in the US, having to put in a new kitchen is a big consideration in deciding whether to proceed. This mindset is what we brought with us to Italy, but we discovered that swapping out a kitchen for a new one doesn't have to be as expensive as we thought. Doing the leg work helped us discover that buying and renovating a house and establishing a life in Italy can be less expensive than we had imagined. More next time. Now on sale for $2.99: My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRKMKPWF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_X2WRQ3PTG2ZDD7AVF6GH Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

  • Trash and Recycling in Italy

    PART 114: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. So me are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. Let's stay close to home this week and sort our trash together. Step 2: We believed we were recycling in California by putting our plastic and glass in one bin and everything else in another. But when we got to Italy, we realized that our recycling practices were at a basic level. Step 3: How trash is differentiated in Italy The separation of trash in Italy goes something like this: Paper Organic materials Plastic Glass Metals Non-recyclable Step 4: Is it the same everywhere in Italy? The way you recycle depends a lot on your location. The Italian government is eager to maintain its reputation as a leader in sustainability. This is why Italy continues to enhance its waste management systems and services to promote reusing, reducing, and recycling for residents and businesses. Municipalities (comuni) will also impose fines on those who do not comply. Step 5: Trash pick up: At home or down the street. In our town in Puglia, trash was picked up every week on designated days. We had to remember the day each type of recycling or trash was collected and put it out the night before. We frequently had to check our chart because we could never remember! If we were away for a few days or more, the accumulated trash would have to sit until we returned. Now that we live in the historical center of our town in Tuscany, we don't have trash pick-up at the house. Instead, we must bring it down to large color-coded bins a few blocks away. We prefer this method since we don't have to wait until a specific day to dispose of particular trash. These bins are locked but can be opened with a magnetic card obtained at the local government office by showing proof of home ownership. If someone is renting a place, the owner would supply this card. Step 6: Color coding of trash bins. Trash bins are color-coded: blue for paper, brown for organic, yellow for plastic, gray for non-recyclable. Some areas also use green for glass and turquoise for metals. Step 7: The challenge of multiple garbage containers in the kitchen. I'll be honest; having multiple trash containers in the kitchen can be a hassle when you have a small space. In our kitchen in Puglia, we were fortunate to have a larger space, so we could place all of our containers on one side of the kitchen. Although we had to see them all the time, at least we didn't trip over them. We also had an outdoor storage area at the bottom of our stairs, which allowed us to take out the trash and recyclables from the kitchen and keep them in the storage area until trash day. In Tuscany, we have a "soggiorno" or main room that serves as a kitchen, living room, and dining room. Because space is limited, we want to avoid trash containers cluttering the floor. We found some stackable units a few days before we returned to California and put them in our pantry. We had to get small trash cans so they could fit in our pantry. Smaller trash cans mean more trips to the trash bins, but it's worth it. I hate clutter and would prefer to drop off recycling every morning on the way to the gym than having to look at trash containers in our main room. Step 6: Links, sources: https://www.expatica.com/it/living/household/trash-and-recycling-in-italy-84629/#sorting Insights: Italy's recycling program takes some getting used to, but it's an excellent step for the environment. The US is a bit behind on this, but we are heading in that direction. In fact, our local trash disposal company in California recently issued color-coded bins as a voluntary recycling program modeled on the EU. Starting this more differentiated recycling in Italy is good practice for us, and once we've overcome the learning curve, it has become second nature. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

  • Updates on Reducing the Cost of Renting a Car in Italy

    PART 123: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's explore how we manage to control the cost of renting a car for the long term (2-3 months) while living in Italy. Step 2: During our first extended stay in Italy, we followed the advice from several travel forums and decided to lease a car from Renault near the Rome airport ( https://www.autoeurope.com/renault-eurodrive/ ). At that time, it cost us approximately $1,900 for two months, which included a new vehicle, roadside assistance, full insurance, and multiple drivers. While it wasn't cheap, it was still more affordable than a daily rental. We had a great car and faced no worries. However, we noticed that leasing prices skyrocketed; at the writing of this blog I checked the rates, which were over $3,000 for two months for their most economical car. This prompted us to begin exploring other alternatives. (FYI: After posting this blog, I got an email from Renault, stating that their 2025 rates have been lowered. I just checked their rates for when we will be needing a car, and they are comparable to when we first started leasing from them. It is worth checking them out.) Step 3: Many aspects of life in Italy operate smoothly through personal relationships. While living in Puglia, we heard about a company that rents out used cars at low prices. We communicated via WhatsApp instead of through a website and arranged a two-month car rental for our upcoming trip. The company is located not far from Lecce: https://noleggio.lafenicesrl.it/noleggio-auto-usate/14/14/noleggio-auto-usate . Our experience was positive. During the off-season, we found used cars available for rent, including insurance, for as little as 15 euros per day. However, we chose to spend a bit more to get a better vehicle. Pros: Low prices, a local company, and insurance included. Cons: These cars are only for local use and cannot be driven across Italy. For instance, when we traveled to the Amalfi Coast, we rented a new car from a different company for the four days we spent driving along the coast. Step 4: Newest Solution When we moved to Tuscany, our previous car rental service no longer met our needs, so we looked for alternative solutions. I asked a local friend from Rome to accompany me to the Rome train station to gather information from each car rental agency. After collecting details from all the agencies, we found one Italian-based agency that would suit our needs, as they offer monthly rentals during some months of the year. Step 5: Sicily By Car We spoke with Mario, who works at the Sicily By Car desk at the Rome train station, about their monthly car rental options. Here are some important points to keep in mind regarding the monthly car rental: 1. The monthly rate is not available during the high season. You can check their website for specific dates. 2. The monthly rate comes with mileage limits: either 2,500 miles or 4,000 miles per month, depending on the chosen rate. 3. The online rate does not include insurance. More information on this is provided below. 4. For insurance, both employees at the desk advised against purchasing it through the website. Instead, they recommended buying it at the desk. The website offers third-party insurance that requires the driver to pay for any accidents upfront and then seek reimbursement. Make sure to consider these points when planning your rental! Step 6: The link For additional information about this monthly deal, please visit the following link: https://www.sicilybycar.it/en/car-hire/info/monthly-car-rental Step 7: Insurance and rental costs Although the rental car cost on the website was listed as approximately 450 euros per month, additional expenses such as insurance brought the total to around 800 euros per month for the car from Sicily By Car with a 4,000 mile limit, since we were driving long distances during that time. This price is much cheaper than the leasing program we were using and significantly less expensive than a daily rental. Step 8: Drawbacks One drawback for us was the timing of our visit in September. Since we arrived on September 15 and the low season began in October 1, we had to rent a car on a daily basis for two weeks. This increased our expenses significantly. However, we still spent less than we would have if we had leased a car from Renault or other companies. One drawback of the Sicily By Car website is the inconsistency in car availability. Sometimes it displays a wide range of options, while at other times, there are none listed. Occasionally, I can view prices for cars 3 to 6 months in advance, but other times I can only find cars available a month ahead, with no options for later dates. We checked the website two or three times in October to reserve a car for the spring for two months, and on one occasion, it finally allowed us to make a reservation. This approach worked for us in the fall, as the staff at Sicily By Car assured us that starting on October 1, they would have plenty of cars available, and that turned out to be true. When we picked up our car on September 15 (daily rental), they advised us to go on the website and reserve the month-long rental beginning October 1. We had to return to swap cars, but the process went smoothly. In the end, we were also able, with some effort, to reserve a car for the spring for two months. However, we remain uncertain if this will be a permanent solution for us due to the difficulties in securing a car in advance. As we explore more car leasing and rental solutions, I will share additional blog posts. Step 9: Your experience If you have discovered affordable car rental or leasing solutions in Italy, please share them in the comments, and I will look into them. Thank you! I hope that helps! Step 10: Update of May 2025: we just returned from Italy and ended up leasing the car from Renault , as refernced above. The price of leasing with Renault and Sicily-by-car were so close, that we went with Renault . So it is well worth investigating both options for long-term rentals, since Renault’s prices are coming down and Sicily-by-car seems to be marketing their month-long rental options more aggressively. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

© 2013–2026 Mark Tedesco

  • Instagram
  • Facebook
  • LinkedIn
  • YouTube
bottom of page