A Knights Templar Adventure
- Mark Tedesco
- Jun 29
- 5 min read
Updated: Jul 6
PART 146: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way.
We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life!
We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year).
Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing.
Step 2: Every morning, as we drove to get coffee from our home in Tuscany, we often spotted a church on a hill. "We should try to find a road that leads up there," we would say, but we never quite managed to discover how to access the mysterious stone church from the road below.
Curious about the church and its history, I decided to do some research. After finding its name, I entered it into Google Maps and discovered a way to reach an incredible historic site: a Templar Knights church located near Arcidosso!
The church's official name is "Pieve di Santa Maria ad Lamulas at Montelaterone."
Step 3: Some history
The Pieve di Santa Maria ad Lamulas, also known as the Pieve di Lamulas, has historical records dating back to 853 when Emperor Louis II of Italy confirmed its ownership. From the 9th to the 11th century, it served as the main religious and administrative center for the Maremma region, located west of Mount Amiata.
According to local legend, the name "Lamulas" is derived from "la mula," meaning "the mule." It is said that a mule, feeling unworthy, knelt at the church's entrance instead of entering, leaving knee prints in the stone that are still visible today.
By 1070, the Pieve had lost its significance and became a parish church. The Knights Templar reconstructed it between 1267 and 1270. An inscription in the first right pillar indicates that the reconstruction was completed in June 1268 under the reign of Charles I of Naples.
The church is situated along a branch of the Via Francigena pilgrimage route, likely making it a safe haven for travelers.
Step 4: Mysteries inside
We recently found a way to reach it, so we decided to explore and see what we might discover.
As we entered the church, we first noticed a cross enclosed in a circle at the entrance, a symbol recognized by Templar travelers centuries ago.
Behind the main altar, an inverted carved stone block known as a "Seed Stone" confirms the Templars' assurance of safe haven for travelers.
In November 1935, restoration efforts revealed two lancet windows and a door on the left wall. The latter features a carved architrave and fresco, both adorned with additional Templar symbols.
One noteworthy column contains winding black stone steps that connect heaven and earth, referred to as the "Axis Mundi."
At the altar is a wooden sculpture of the Madonna and Child, believed to be the sole survivor of a great fire. The two ram's heads in the sculpture symbolize strength and guidance.
Armed knights on horseback flank each side of the presbytery, facing a fearsome beast. A juggler stands behind one knight while another terrifying creature lurks under the eaves.
All of these were symbols used in the Templar era.
The presbytery has a carved mask that may have Etruscan origins.
Above the left aisle door, a woven lintel features Solomon knots and two symbolic frescoes: one depicts a flower of life with six petals, while the other has eight petals. Additionally, three medieval graffiti symbols can be found: six small balls, a Greek cross, and an octagonal shield with seven spheres, likely left by the Knights Templar during restoration between 1267 and 1270.
Many more treasures await discovery within the church, and I invite you to explore as many as you can before checking the numbered photograph collection on the left wall of the nave, which leads visitors to the interpretation of the various Templar symbols inside.
Step 5: The Rise and Fall of the Knights Templar
The Knights Templar were established around 1119 and received official recognition from the Pope in 1129. This medieval Christian military order combined martial skills with a monastic lifestyle to defend Christian holy sites and protect pilgrims in the Middle East and beyond. Headquartered in Jerusalem and later in Acre, the Templars became a key and elite part of Crusader armies.
Over time, the Knights Templar grew into a powerful organization, controlling castles and lands in the Levant and across Europe. However, French King Philip IV falsely accused them of heresy and corruption, successfully persuading the Pope to disband the order in 1312. Following this, King Philip confiscated many of the lands and castles that the Templars had accumulated, enriching himself and his kingdom.
Step 6: Other signs to look for
Armed knights on horseback facing a monstrous beast
The laughing juggler
The scary beast lurking on the column
The wild cat
The two carved faces in the presbytery
Templar symbols above a door: At the bottom, a stack of six small balls. Above that a circle containing a Greek cross with branched ends. And above that, an octagonal shield containing seven small spheres
Celtic knots
A small dog
Knights templar cross
Step 7: Why it is interesting
I have always found the Knights Templar intriguing due to its controversies. They were an organization that aimed to combine the medieval lifestyles of knighthood and monasticism with the mission of protecting pilgrims traveling to the Holy Land. They began as a group of poor men, which is reflected in their symbol of two men riding on one horse. Over the centuries, their lands and wealth grew as donations increased, making them a powerful force in a fragmented medieval world. However, their success ultimately led to their downfall, as the papacy fell under the control of the French monarchy, resulting in their dissolution so that a wealthy king could amass even more riches.
Their story encompasses themes of idealism, faith, greed, power, and everything in between.
The Pieve di Santa Maria ad Lamulas is particularly interesting because of the history engraved in its stones. This structure initially served as a safe house for pilgrims, complete with a chapel, before evolving into the current church.
This place enabled me to "touch history."
Visiting there was a fantastic experience, connecting me to their world.
Step 8: Sources:
Step 9: See my other blog on the Knights Templar in our area of Tuscany: Link.
More next time.
My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE
Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL.
Kommentare