A University City with 3,000 Years of History About This Series: Living part-time in Tuscany has turned us into passionate scouts for towns that could welcome fellow international residents. After years of splitting our time between southern Tuscany and California, we've learned to evaluate places through the lens of someone considering making Italy home. During the following months each blog will be dedicated to a unique town, examining everything from practical conveniences and community life to tourist impact and daily challenges. Our goal is to provide authentic, unvarnished insights for fellow international residents considering making Italy home, whether full-time or part-time. This week, we're exploring Perugia, Umbria's capital. It's a genuine university city with 3,000 years of history, a beautiful medieval center, and a student population that keeps it lively. It's also a working regional capital with real infrastructure—something you don't always find in smaller Italian towns. Our Experience In all my years living in Rome, I never visited Perugia. Then, when we started hunting for areas to possibly live in Italy, Perugia made the list. What struck me immediately was how extraordinary the historic center is. The Piazza IV Novembre, where all roads seem to lead, serves as the heart of the city. It's dominated by the Fontana Maggiore, a pink-and-white marble fountain from the 13th century that art historians consider one of Italy's most important and best preserved. The Gothic Palazzo dei Priori and the Cathedral of San Lorenzo face the square, creating an ensemble that has been the center of civic life since Roman times. The second thing that struck me was how alive the town was. During the academic year, the piazza and the pedestrian promenade of Corso Vannucci were buzzing with students having aperitivi, joking, laughing, telling stories. The energy was infectious—a mix of youthful university spirit and timeless Italian social life that we experienced every day we were there. Perugia proved strategic too. We used it as a base to explore Assisi, Spoleto, and Gubbio. Umbria, with its rolling hills of olives and vineyards, echoes Tuscany's beauty, but housing prices are often significantly lower. I loved Perugia and could easily live there, though we'd probably only afford a place in the newer part of town, which is more practical than beautiful. But as long as you live near the Minimetrò, getting up to the historic center every day is effortless—the perfect compromise between medieval charm and modern convenience. In the end, we chose Tuscany over Umbria, but Perugia still holds a special place for me. It represents what I love about Italian cities: ancient beauty integrated with contemporary life, where 3,000 years of history create the backdrop for something as simple as an evening aperitivo with friends. Location & Accessibility Perugia sits at about 1,640 feet, dominating the hills of central Umbria. Transportation Options: Airports: Rome Fiumicino (2 hours), Florence (2 hours), Perugia's own Sant'Egidio airport (12 minutes) Trains: Central station with connections to Rome (2.5 hours), Florence (2 hours), Assisi (25 minutes) Minimetrò: Automated people-mover connecting hillside neighborhoods to the valley—solves the universal Italian hilltop problem Highway: Good connections to the A1 via E45 Nearby: Assisi (25 minutes), Gubbio (40 minutes), Todi (45 minutes), Orvieto (1 hour) For a town this size, the infrastructure is excellent. Having its own airport helps. Historical Significance Perugia was founded by the Etruscans in the 6th century BC. Massive sections of their defensive walls still encircle the city—among Europe's best-preserved Etruscan fortifications. The Romans conquered it in 309 BC, then came medieval communes, papal rule, and finally unification with Italy. The University of Perugia, founded in 1308, is one of Europe's oldest. The Università per Stranieri (founded 1921) has welcomed international students for over a century. This academic tradition created something distinctive: a working Italian city that has always embraced international residents. Visual Character The historic center is contained within medieval and Etruscan walls, rising like a fortress above the surrounding hills. Gothic and Renaissance palaces line Corso Vannucci, creating an elegant pedestrian promenade that leads to the Palazzo dei Priori, the cathedral, and the ancient fountain. But the visual story changes as you descend from the hilltop. The modern districts below—built mostly from the 1960s onward—are less enchanting. Concrete apartment blocks, strip malls, utilitarian commercial buildings. It's the post-war urban sprawl you find throughout Italy. Functional and well-served by infrastructure, but lacking the architectural harmony of the center. The contrast can be jarring: medieval splendor above, contemporary practicality below. Evening light on Perugia's stone facades transforms the historic center into something golden and spectacular. The modern districts, while livable, simply can't compete. Distinctive Features Historic Center: Palazzo dei Priori: Gothic town hall housing the National Gallery of Umbria, with masterpieces by Perugino and Pinturicchio Fontana Maggiore: Medieval fountain by Nicola and Giovanni Pisano, considered one of Italy's greatest sculptural achievements Etruscan Arch: Massive 3rd-century BC gateway Underground Perugia: Etruscan and Roman ruins beneath modern streets, accessible through guided tours Modern Infrastructure: Minimetrò: Futuristic people-mover connecting hillside to valley University districts with student housing Regional government offices providing public services Multiple theaters, concert halls, exhibition spaces Recognition: Regional capital of Umbria Major Italian university city UNESCO recognition for Etruscan heritage Practical Conveniences Basic Information: Population: 165,000 (city proper); 195,000 (metro area) International students: Over 5,000 annually from 80+ countries Internet: Excellent broadband and fiber throughout Housing Costs (Idealista.it and Immobiliare.it; data current as of June 2026): Historic center rentals: €500–€1,200/month; premium for palazzo apartments with period details Modern district rentals: €400–€700/month; significantly more affordable with contemporary amenities Historic center buying: €1,700–€2,600 per square meter, with the most prestigious palazzo apartments exceeding that Newer areas buying: €900–€1,400 per square meter Student housing: €235–€400/month for shared accommodation Sample purchase prices for two-bedroom, one-bath apartments (June 2026): Historic center, Via Podiani: third-floor trilocale, recently renovated, two bedrooms and one bath — €145,000 Near the center, Via Pinturicchio: 70 m² trilocale, walking distance to the main university faculties and the historic center — €105,000 Modern districts (Madonna Alta, Ponte San Giovanni, Ferro di Cavallo): two-bedroom, one-bath apartments of 80–100 m² typically list between €85,000 and €110,000, with renovation condition driving most of the variation Note: Check Idealista.it and Immobiliare.it for current listings. The Trade-off: The historic center offers an incomparable lifestyle—waking up in a medieval building, walking ancient streets to museums, aperitivo in Renaissance squares. But it comes with premium pricing, limited parking, restricted vehicle access, and the challenges of adapting centuries-old buildings. The modern districts provide contemporary comfort at lower costs—ample parking, modern appliances, easier grocery shopping, better transportation connections. Many international residents, particularly families, find the newer areas more livable day-to-day while still enjoying easy access to the historic center. Services: Historic center: Elegant boutiques, bookstores, restaurants along Corso Vannucci Modern districts: Supermarkets, local markets, practical shopping Major shopping: Centro Commerciale Collestrada, Umbria's largest shopping center Healthcare: Regional hospital and specialists Banking: Full range of financial services Parking: Multiple garages; ZTL restrictions in historic center Community & Social Life The academic calendar shapes everything. September through June, 35,000+ university students create vibrant energy. There's a large expat community including university staff, researchers, and retirees. English is widely available because of the international university presence. The university's impact is mostly positive: youthful energy, cultural events, international atmosphere, excellent restaurants. Considerations include student housing competition, weekend nightlife, and seasonal population changes. Why expats choose Perugia: World-class museums and galleries Year-round concerts, theater, festivals Regional capital services and infrastructure Excellent healthcare Established international community Language exchange programs and cultural organizations Balance of Italian authenticity with international openness The city has welcomed international residents for over 700 years. That tradition shows. Cultural Attractions & Leisure Sites: National Gallery of Umbria Etruscan Museum Underground Perugia tours Medieval churches: San Pietro, San Domenico, and dozens more Festivals: Umbria Jazz (July): World-renowned Eurochocolate (October): Attracts visitors worldwide Perugia Film Festival Classical music throughout the year Day Trips: Assisi (25 minutes) Gubbio (40 minutes) Orvieto (1 hour) Rome and Florence both accessible (2-2.5 hours) Outdoors: Monte Subasio Regional Park Lake Trasimeno nearby Daily Life Through the Seasons Academic Year (September-June): The city pulses with student energy. Bustling cafes, evening aperitivo crowds, cultural events. International restaurants stay busy. This is when Perugia feels most cosmopolitan. Summer: Students leave, and the city quiets but stays active with tourism and festivals. Umbria Jazz transforms the city for two weeks in July. Perfect weather for the surrounding countryside. Winter: Peaceful months with fog in the valleys. University life continues at a calmer pace. Cultural venues maintain full programs. Authentic local life without tourist crowds. The academic rhythm creates a unique lifestyle—international sophistication when students are present, intimate local community during breaks. Tourism Impact Perugia has cultural tourists, festival attendees, and day-trippers from nearby attractions. But as a working university city rather than a museum town, tourism complements daily life rather than dominating it. Major festivals bring crowds but also world-class performances. The historic center can be busy during peak periods, but the modern districts provide quiet residential alternatives. Practical Challenges What to know: Student housing competition: Popular areas can be challenging during enrollment Hillside accessibility: Steep streets and stairs throughout historic center ZTL restrictions: Limited vehicle access in historic center requires parking strategy Academic calendar effects: Some services and social scenes fluctuate with the university schedule Weather: Hilltop location means stronger winds and occasionally harsh winters Parking costs: Historic center parking can be expensive for daily use Bureaucracy: Regional capital status can mean more complex administrative procedures These challenges are manageable and often outweighed by university city infrastructure and international community support. The Verdict: Perugia at a Glance Ideal for: Those who enjoy university and intellectual atmosphere People seeking authentic Italian life with international sophistication Culture and arts enthusiasts International professionals needing solid infrastructure Anyone interested in 3,000 years of layered history Social people who enjoy diverse, educated communities Consider carefully if: You prefer quiet, rural environments without student energy You need affordable housing specifically in the historic center You want to avoid any tourist activity You prefer Italian-only social environments You require sea access or flat terrain Our assessment: Perugia offers something unusual—a genuine Italian regional capital that has welcomed international residents for centuries. The university presence ensures cultural sophistication, practical services, and social opportunities you'd normally find only in major metropolitan areas. Property costs are reasonable compared to Florence or Rome. I could have lived there. We chose Tuscany for other reasons, but Perugia remains a place I think about. The combination of that extraordinary piazza, the student energy, the Minimetrò linking old and new, the reasonable prices in the modern districts—it works. If you want a city that feels authentically Italian but internationally connected, where the infrastructure actually functions and the social scene stays lively, Perugia deserves serious consideration. More next time: We'll continue exploring other captivating towns in our area that caught our attention during our ongoing search for perfect destinations for international residents. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE

Charm versus Convenience It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is now our life! We live in Tuscany in the fall, return again in the spring, and spend the rest of the time in California. In a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year. As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always worth the detour. Step 1: This week let's explore our experience of living in a historical center in Italy — and why we wouldn't do it again. Step 2: We were swept away by the charm of a 15th-century house in the historical center of a town we discovered in Tuscany. Stone walls, wood-beam ceilings, and terra cotta floors gave the home a sense of history that was a world away from our life in California. In other blogs, I recounted how we upgraded the home while keeping its original character — a new kitchen, a second bathroom, an upgraded main bathroom, double-pane windows, and a redone roof. But even with all of that investment, we eventually decided that living in the historical center was not for us. Keep in mind that this blog reflects our personal experience and does not claim to speak for everyone who lives in a historical center. So what were the issues that led us to that decision? Step 3: Parking When we bought the house, we knew we would have to rely on street parking some blocks away — a small price to pay for living in a town that was once a pilgrimage stop under the protection of the Knights Templar, just down the hill from a castle once inhabited by the Medicis. But over time, lugging cases of water, groceries, bags of pellets, and other supplies wore us down. When a festival or market came to town, parking near our place would disappear entirely, and we would end up hiking in from wherever we could find a spot. Parking and hauling goods home became more of a grind as time went on — but it was not the only factor that led us to leave. Step 4: Darkness Most homes in historical centers were built with small windows, and views are often blocked by the building directly across the narrow lane. Ours was no exception. At first, that was part of the charm — think of the history, the people who had lived there, the stories those stones had witnessed. But the reality is that many such homes are simply dark. Buildings packed tightly together mean that direct sunlight rarely reaches inside, and ours was no different. Coming from California, I missed the light more than I had expected. On rainy days especially, the house felt closed in. You might find a home on the edge of a historical center with more open views, but many homes — built surrounded by other historical buildings — live in the shadows. Step 5: Drafts and Heat Our home came with two pellet heaters — one in the main bedroom and one in the kitchen. The kitchen unit took up too much floor space, so we had it removed and replaced with heat-generating electric logs in the fireplace. What we discovered was that no matter how much heat we generated, drafts remained. Many historical homes were never designed to be wind-tight, and we did what we could to address that. Whether the drafts came through the front door area or from some other unknown source, we could never eliminate them entirely. Some neighbors had installed glass wind proof doors over their front entrances, which probably helped — we considered doing the same. We also went to the expense of installing double-pane windows throughout, but the drafts remained. The best we could do was seal off rooms and heat them sufficiently while other areas stayed cold. Step 6: Water Issues Our historic home had a tile roof, and one exterior side of the building was made of exposed stone and mortar — beautiful to look at, but with downsides. Not long after purchasing the home, we had leaks from the roof that sent us into a panic. Our contractor climbed up and found that the tile roof had no sealer or tar paper beneath it — just tiles laid directly on the wood structure. Our realtor told us this was common in historical centers in our area of the Monte Amiata, and that it had generally been sufficient. But with the increasingly heavy wind-driven rains of recent years, such roofs were no longer reliably water-tight. We had the tiles removed, sealed the roof underneath and then replaced them; the roof is now water-tight, but it was a stressful and costly lesson. The stone exterior walls presented a similar issue. The only thing keeping water from seeping through during a driving rainstorm is the mortar between the rocks, which in some cases may be centuries old. We had water dampen interior walls during strong storms, and had to take the necessary steps to resolve it. Step 7: Pellet Heating and Air Quality Nearly all of our neighbors in the historical center relied on pellet heating, as did we. It generates strong heat and is cheaper than most electric or gas options in Italy. But it comes with downsides. The first is practical: keeping a supply of pellet bags on hand means lugging them from the car and finding somewhere to stack them inside. The second issue — for me, the more significant one — is air quality. On cold days, stepping outside sometimes meant walking straight into a cloud of pellet smoke. I have a history of asthma, and the acrid smoke from all those heaters burning at once would irritate my lungs. I learned to carry my inhaler whenever I went out. What seemed like a minor inconvenience at first became a genuine concern: on colder days, clean air in our historical center was simply unavailable. Step 8: Vacant Properties Our historical center, like many others, had a significant number of vacant properties — some listed for sale, others simply abandoned. What we came to understand is that many locals do not want to live in the historical center, for exactly the kinds of reasons I have described here. So properties sit unsold, waiting for a foreign buyer drawn in by the charm. Being surrounded by vacant homes began to concern us. We decided it made more sense to invest somewhere that locals also want to live. Step 9: Delivery Issues Because vehicles cannot enter most of the historical center, getting larger items delivered — appliances, furniture, construction materials — became a real logistical challenge. Our contractor had to hire workers simply for moving materials from the truck to our front door, and for hauling away debris. It is an added cost and complication that comes with the territory. Step 10: Our Solution What it came down to, in the end, was a choice between charm and convenience. We chose convenience. We moved to Santa Fiora, where we live just across the bridge from the historical center in a six-unit, more modern condominium building with a new roof and a restored facade. We are close enough to enjoy all the charm of the centro storico on a daily walk, without actually living inside it. Large windows, lots of light and new electric and plumbing turned out to be the best fit for us. We are grateful for our time in the historical center — we learned a great deal from it. But we are equally grateful to have moved on to something that simply works better for how we live. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" draws the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE

It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. Step 1: This week let's explore the before and after of the second house we purchased in Tuscany, in Santa Fiora. Step 2: Our first house in Italy. Arcidosso. As readers of this blog know, the first house we purchased in Italy was in the town of Arcidosso, in southern Tuscany. The house was built in the 15th century (depending on who you asked) and was full of charm. We decided to upgrade it, adding a second bathroom, new kitchen, double pane windows, washer/dryer and all new appliances. At the same time, we strove to keep the original charm: wood beam ceilings, rock walls, terra cotta floors. (see blog on the before and after of our Aricodosso house here). During the renovation of the Arcidosso house We were pleased with the way it turned out. At its completion, almost as a dare, my partner suggested we put it on the market to see if there was any interest. If there was, we could purchase a larger house and start the renovation process all over. Though I resisted at first, I relented, and we put it on the market. About three weeks later we got an offer and sold the home to an American couple who loved it. We then used the money from that sale to purchase a house in the village next door which was owned by our contractor, who had already started renovating it. Step 3: Our second house in Italy. Santa Fiora. Our contractor had purchased a condo in a 6 unit 1950s building in the welcoming town of Santa Fiora; his original idea was to renovate it and move in with his family. But for various reasons, he abandoned that idea and purchased a larger house nearby. When we looked at the house, it was already stripped down. Unlike the Arcidosso house, which was full of charm but presented the challenge of upgrading a historical property from the 1500s, this house was basically a cement box, cleared to its bare bones. The challenge here would be to complete the house, give it some character, add a second bathroom and not blow our budget. Step 4: The area and the building. When one lives in the historical center of a town or city, sometimes convenience is sacrificed for charm. Parking far away and lugging groceries or water, paying extra for deliveries of furniture or larger items, wore on us after awhile. Dealing with the quirks that older properties always carry, whether it be roof, plumbing or electrical issues, took their toll too. We reached the point where we were ready to trade some charm for convenience. Santa Fiora has the advantage that both the historical and newer areas of the town are lovely, and most of the town is supplied by geothermal heating (discussed below). The part of town we are in is less than a ten minute walk from the historical center, with all its charm, and yet is in the newer part, about a five minute walk to the supermarket and other amenities. Plus there is parking in front and behind our building. The roof has recently been replaced and the facade refinished. Though not architecturally significant, the building is nice, newly painted and well kept up. Our neighbors are amazing and can't do enough for us. In fact, the other day one of them said, "Get some of your friends to move to Santa Fiora too!" Condominium fees in our area are much lower than in California, and are well worth the peace of mind that the building is being taken care of while we are not here. Step 5: Geothermal heating. Santa Fiora is one of the few towns in our area connected to the geothermal district heating system, which is a real advantage. I wrote another blog explaining how geothermal energy works (see post here), but here is the short version: hot water from a geothermal plant beneath Monte Amiata circulates through underground pipes and transfers heat to homes through a heat exchanger. It is efficient, renewable, and the costs are generally lower and more stable than conventional heating. We have ample heat and hot water without the bills that usually come with them. Step 6: The before. When we walked into the house in Santa Fiora, the only thing that was in place was the front door and the tile floors. Everything else had to be done. Our first decision had to be: what type of a home did we want? Did we want to try to imitate the historical charm that our first house had? But that could mean fake wood ceilings and beams and imitation stone. That wouldn't work. But the house was sterile as is. How could we give it character? In the end we decided to reach into two worlds: our Californian roots, where Palm Springs midcentury modern architecture is dominant, and our Tuscan life, with its wood floors and wide windows opening onto the countryside. The furnishings, lighting and wall art we chose echo a vintage feel, with framed travel posters from Palm Springs and Italy, and light fixtures that are more of another era than this one. We got used to the dark tile flooring that resembles wood, but broke it up with lighter carpets. What is special about this house is the light; unlike homes in the historical center, which tend to have smaller windows, this home faces the soccer field in the back and the beautiful town in the front, with large windows bringing in so much light from both sides. Living room: Before and after Step 7: The after. We are not yet in the 100% after phase, since we still have some projects to do and some artwork to decide on but we are almost there. We made the most of every space, and the washer/dryer combo sits on wheels within the utility area that houses the geothermal system components. We have three work areas: a desk in the den, the dining room table next to the window facing the soccer field, and the living room facing the TV. So when one or both of us has work to do on the computer, there are choices. Before and after: the den (with a new second bathroom) The house feels open and spacious. Living in a historical center was a great experience for us and we learned a lot, but we realize that this is a better fit — a place where we can introduce our own charm in a home that works for us day to day: parking nearby, a more modern building, none of the issues an older property brings. Step 8: Next steps. Now we are finishing the house and settling in, developing relationships with our neighbors and locals, and adjusting to living in Santa Fiora and beyond. The next steps include putting healthy routines in place — gym, hiking, keeping active, eating clean — and taking one day at a time. Before and after: kitchen Insights: Upgrading the house in Arcidosso to fit the needs of two Californians, while respecting and highlighting its charm, was the right move for us and for the house. Finding a way to express where we came from and where we are now in the Santa Fiora house, with references to California vintage and our Tuscan adventure, seemed the best way to express the uniqueness of the house with that of our lives. We also learned something about ourselves in the process: living in a historical center was a chapter worth having, but knowing when a chapter is over is just as important as living it fully. A few more before and after photos: Main bedroom; before and after Before and after: main bathroom More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL.

The ideal Renaissance town About This Series: Living part-time in Tuscany has turned us into passionate scouts for towns that could welcome fellow international residents. After years of splitting our time between southern Tuscany and California, we've learned to evaluate places through the lens of someone considering making Italy home. During the following months each blog will be dedicated to a unique town, examining everything from practical conveniences and community life to tourist impact and daily challenges. Our goal is to provide authentic, unvarnished insights for fellow international residents considering making Italy home, whether full-time or part-time. This week, we're exploring Pienza. It's a UNESCO World Heritage site and the first example of planned Renaissance urban design. The town is beautiful, the views are famous, and the pecorino cheese is legendary. But living here means sharing your home with thousands of tourists. Whether that's a dealbreaker depends on you. Our Experience I can still remember the first time we visited Pienza. The stone buildings in the historical center framed views of the Val d'Orcia's rolling hills that seemed almost unreal. It was summer, and the town was packed with tourists, many of them Americans. But that didn't bother me—I was too fascinated by the place itself. Pienza is the Renaissance ideal city, consciously designed by Pope Pius II to embody principles of harmony and balance. It's the first example of planned urban design, and walking through it, you feel that intention in every carefully positioned building and piazza. The cathedral stopped me in my tracks. With its soaring Gothic interior and huge clear glass windows, it felt more Northern European than Italian, flooding the space with light. Yet Renaissance paintings on the walls reminded you exactly where you were. I found it both beautiful and meditative, though the sloping floor and visible cracks in the walls made me acutely aware of time and gravity at work. The floor slopes because the cathedral's rear section extends over unstable clay soil that has been gradually shifting since construction—a reminder that even Renaissance perfection must reckon with geology. We've returned many times since, eating at various cafes—some excellent, others just okay, like any tourist destination. For me, Pienza is about those views over the Val d'Orcia. For others, it's the famous pecorino cheese, and I understand that too. We keep coming back. Even the newer parts of town have their charm. My partner always says he'd love to live here, though it's well out of our price range. Maybe not out of yours though. Location & Accessibility Pienza sits at about 1,755 feet in the Val d'Orcia, in the heart of the famous Tuscan landscape. Transportation Options: Airports: Florence is about 2 hours by car, Rome Fiumicino about 2.5 hours Trains: Chiusi-Chianciano Terme station is 45 minutes away, with high-speed connections to Rome (1h 15m) and Florence (1h 30m) Buses: LFI runs to Montepulciano and Siena, but schedules are limited Nearby: Montepulciano (15 minutes), Montalcino (20 minutes), Siena (1 hour) You'll need a car. The location is central, which makes it a good base for exploring the region. Historical Significance Pienza started as a humble village called Corsignano. In 1459, Pope Pius II decided to transform his birthplace into an "ideal Renaissance city." Working with architect Bernardo Rossellino, he created what UNESCO now calls "the first application of the Renaissance concept of urban design." The pope's idea was that harmonious architecture could create a better society. He died before finishing the project, but the three-year building campaign produced something remarkable—a town designed according to humanist principles rather than just growing organically over centuries. The town was renamed Pienza ("Pius's city") in his honor. Visual Character The Renaissance center is contained within medieval walls. Honey-colored travertine buildings surround Piazza Pio II, which is often called one of Italy's most beautiful squares. The cathedral forms the backdrop. The Palazzo Piccolomini's hanging gardens offer views across the Val d'Orcia to Monte Amiata. Every street, every building, every vista was designed deliberately. Five centuries later, you can still feel it. The main street, Corso il Rossellino, has views of the countryside framed between buildings. It's beautiful. It's also full of tourists. Distinctive Features Architecture: Palazzo Piccolomini: The pope's residence, with a triple-loggia overlooking gardens and panoramic views Cathedral: Gothic interior with enormous windows flooding the space with light. The building is slowly settling—the cracks and sloping floor are part of its character now. Underground: Etruscan and Roman foundations visible in the Palazzo Vescovile's basement Recognition: UNESCO World Heritage site (1996) "I Borghi più belli d'Italia" Practical Conveniences Basic Information: Population: About 2,085 Internet: Reliable broadband in the historic center Housing Costs: Rentals: €600-€900/month average; 2-bedroom apartments from around €700. Higher than surrounding areas because of tourism. Buying: €2,800-€3,500 per square meter—well above regional averages due to UNESCO status and tourist appeal. Small apartments start around €150,000. Houses with views run €300,000+. Note: Prices from Immobiliare.it and Idealista (September 2025). Services: Basic needs met locally: alimentari, pharmacy, tourist shops Major shopping requires trips to Montepulciano or Siena Parking limited in the historic center; residents can get permits UNESCO protections mean any building modifications require extensive permissions. Community & Social Life Pienza has a mix of longtime residents and newer arrivals drawn by the town's beauty. There's an established expat community, though smaller than in larger towns. English is more common here than in most Tuscan villages because of international tourism. But Italian is still essential for real integration. The constant tourist presence creates a unique dynamic. You're never truly anonymous, but you're also not the only outsider. Living here means sharing your daily environment with thousands of visitors during peak season. Tourism Impact This is the reality of Pienza: during peak season (April-October), thousands of visitors come through daily. Streets get crowded. Restaurants book up. Parking disappears. Tourism sustains local businesses and funds preservation. But residents adapt—shopping during off-peak hours, finding quieter routes, accepting that the main piazza isn't really theirs in summer. Winter is different. The tourists leave. Mist rolls across the Val d'Orcia. You can hear your footsteps on the Renaissance stones. Some businesses close or reduce hours, but you get the town back. Cultural Attractions & Leisure Sites: Palazzo Piccolomini state rooms and gardens Diocesan Museum with illuminated manuscripts The cathedral Experiences: Pecorino cheese tastings—Pienza is synonymous with pecorino di Pienza DOP. Shops everywhere offer varieties aged in different conditions. Architecture tours Classical music concerts Festivals: Fiera del Cacio (first Sunday in September): Cheese festival Medieval festivals throughout the year Day Trips: Bagno Vignoni thermal baths (15 minutes) Montepulciano (15 minutes) Montalcino (20 minutes) You're in the heart of the Val d'Orcia—everything is close Photography: Some of Italy's most photographed landscapes are literally at your doorstep. If you're a photographer, this is paradise. Daily Life Through the Seasons Summer: Warm, low 80s°F. Also the heaviest tourist crowds. Tour buses arrive continuously. Restaurants are fully booked. The town can feel overwhelmed on peak weekends. Autumn: Perfect balance. Moderate crowds, ideal weather, the Val d'Orcia at its most photogenic with autumn colors. Winter: The town returns to residents. Mist, quiet streets, some businesses closed. You can actually experience the Renaissance stones without crowds. Spring: Wildflowers, moderate tourists, beautiful weather. Another sweet spot. Living here successfully means embracing this rhythm—enjoying the energy tourists bring while knowing how to find peace when you need it. Practical Challenges What to know: Tourists: You'll navigate daily crowds during peak season. This is non-negotiable. Cost: Housing and some services are expensive because of the tourist economy. Parking: Restricted in the historic center. You'll need a resident permit. UNESCO regulations: Strict requirements for any building modifications. Renovations are complicated. Jobs: Limited year-round employment. The economy depends heavily on tourism. Healthcare: Basic services locally; hospital care requires travel to Montepulciano or Siena. The Verdict: Pienza at a Glance Ideal for: History and architecture enthusiasts who want to live inside a Renaissance masterpiece Photographers and artists Those seeking a central Tuscany location for regional exploration People comfortable with tourist environments Remote workers who thrive in inspiring surroundings Consider carefully if: You prefer quiet, undiscovered places You need affordable housing You want to avoid tourist crowds You require local employment opportunities You value privacy and anonymity Our assessment: Pienza offers something rare—the chance to live in one of the world's most deliberately designed towns, surrounded by the landscape that defines the Tuscan ideal. The tourist presence is real, and during summer it's intense. But it also ensures good restaurants, cultural events, and a community that's accustomed to outsiders. It's out of our price range. My partner would move here tomorrow if we could afford it. The views, the architecture, the cheese, the light—it's genuinely special. But you have to be honest with yourself about the tourists. If sharing your hometown with the world sounds exhausting, look elsewhere. If it sounds exciting, or at least manageable, Pienza might be exactly what you're looking for. More next time: We'll continue exploring other captivating towns in our area that caught our attention during our ongoing search for perfect destinations for international residents. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL. Please check out my blog: https://www.marktedesco.com/blog

A Medieval Town on Europe's Largest Volcanic Lake Part About This Series: Living part-time in Tuscany has turned us into passionate scouts for towns that could welcome fellow international residents. After years of splitting our time between southern Tuscany and California, we've learned to evaluate places through the lens of someone considering making Italy home. During the following months each blog will be dedicated to a unique town, examining everything from practical conveniences and community life to tourist impact and daily challenges. Our goal is to provide authentic, unvarnished insights for fellow international residents considering making Italy home, whether full-time or part-time. This week, we're exploring Bolsena. It sits on the shores of Europe's largest volcanic lake in northern Lazio, right where Lazio, Umbria, and Tuscany meet. Medieval center, working town, clean water, and none of the crowds you'd find at more famous destinations. Our Experience We knew nothing about Bolsena when we set out one morning. Nothing of its history, anyway—we just wanted to see the lake. We parked easily near the historical center and walked uphill through town. When we reached a spot overlooking the lake, I couldn't help myself. "Wow, this is beautiful," I said, looking out over stone buildings, tile roofs, cobblestone streets, and Lago Bolsena stretching beyond. We'd planned to visit the Basilica di Santa Cristina, but it was closed until late afternoon. So we wandered instead—narrow streets, quiet alleys, no agenda. What struck me was the combination: a charming historical center, a newer town that actually works, and a location within easy reach of Orvieto, Viterbo, Rome, and our area of southern Tuscany. The nearest train station is Orvieto, 22 kilometers away. For someone looking to live in Italy, Bolsena offers medieval beauty, lakeside living, and none of the crowds. We'll be back. Location & Accessibility Bolsena sits at about 1,148 feet on the northeastern shore of Lake Bolsena in northern Lazio, where three regions converge. Transportation Options: Airports: Rome Fiumicino (1 hour 45 minutes), Rome Ciampino (1 hour 50 minutes), Florence (2 hours) Trains: No direct rail service. Nearest stations at Orvieto (22 km, 30 minutes) with high-speed to Rome and Florence, or Montefiascone (15 km) with regional connections Buses: COTRAL buses to Viterbo, Montefiascone, and Orvieto, though limited, especially Sundays Road: 120 km north of Rome via A1 (about 1 hour 40 minutes) Nearby: Orvieto (30 minutes), Viterbo (40 minutes), Civita di Bagnoregio (30 minutes), Pitigliano (25 minutes) You'll need a car. But the location puts you at the intersection of three regions, with easy access to two major airports. That's worth something. Historical Significance Bolsena has layers. The town sits on what was once the Roman settlement of Volsinii, itself built on an Etruscan city. Archaeological discoveries continue to surface. The town's position on the Via Francigena made it a stop for medieval pilgrims heading to Rome. But what put Bolsena on the map was the Miracle of Bolsena in 1263—a pivotal Catholic event that led to the establishment of the Feast of Corpus Christi, now celebrated worldwide. The Basilica of Santa Cristina houses the relics of an early Christian martyr and contains Paleochristian catacombs dating back over 1,700 years. The medieval castle, Rocca Monaldeschi della Cervara, dominates the town and now houses the Territorial Museum of Lake Bolsena. Visual Character Bolsena has two parts: the medieval center perched above, and the lakeside district below. Narrow cobblestone streets wind upward through honey-colored stone buildings, many from the 13th and 14th centuries. The lower town has tree-lined promenades, beaches, and a small harbor. The lake itself is the main attraction visually. At 270 square kilometers, it's large enough to have its own weather patterns and wave action. The volcanic origins give it clean, deep blue water. Two islands—Bisentina and Martana—sit in the center. The view from the castle takes in the entire lake and surrounding countryside. It hasn't changed much in centuries. Distinctive Features Basilica of Santa Cristina: Nearly 2,000 years of Christian history in one complex—underground basilica, Paleochristian catacombs, medieval Romanesque structure above. Rocca Monaldeschi della Cervara: Medieval castle built between the 11th and 14th centuries, now housing the Territorial Museum with Etruscan, Roman, and medieval artifacts. Lake Bolsena: Europe's largest volcanic lake, formed 370,000 years ago. Reportedly the cleanest lake waters in Europe. Swimming, sailing, fishing, boating. Hydrangeas: The town has a hydrangea culture—the Festival of Hydrangeas in June fills the streets with color, and there's a local hydrangea liqueur you won't find anywhere else. Practical Conveniences Basic Information: Population: About 3,734 permanent residents; grows to around 20,000 in summer Internet: Reliable broadband in historic center and lakeside areas Housing Costs: Rentals: Very limited long-term rentals; most properties are seasonal/vacation. Airbnb long-term stays may be the only monthly option. Buying: Apartments from €65,000-€130,000 for smaller properties needing work; €140,000+ for renovated with lake views; rural properties and villas from €200,000+ Note: Check Casa.it and Idealista for current listings. The rental market here is a challenge. Services: Co-op supermarket, independent shops, pharmacies, banks, post office Good selection of restaurants and trattorias Ample parking around historic center and lake Healthcare locally; hospitals in Viterbo (40 minutes) and Rome (90 minutes) Community & Social Life Mix of permanent residents and seasonal visitors. Less overwhelming than major tourist spots. Growing expat community, though less established than in Tuscany. English is less common here than in heavily touristed areas. Italian matters for real integration. The community includes longtime Italian families—fishing, agriculture, local businesses—alongside newer residents drawn by the lake and the location. Summers are lively with festivals and lake activities. Winters are quieter, focused on local life. Living here means being part of a working community, not a tourist destination. The lake creates its own culture—seasonal rhythms, outdoor life, a more relaxed pace than typical hill towns. Tourism Impact Moderate seasonal tourism, focused on the lake rather than cultural sightseeing. Summer brings swimmers, sailors, families on the beaches. It gets busier, but it's not overwhelming. The town maintains its character year-round. This isn't a place that exists for tourists. Cultural Attractions & Leisure Sites: Basilica of Santa Cristina with catacombs Rocca Monaldeschi castle and museum Chiesa di San Francesco Lake Activities: Swimming in reportedly Europe's cleanest lake Sailing (school at nearby Capodimonte) Fishing (license required) Ferry trips to Bisentina and Martana islands Festivals: Festival of Saint Christina (July) with costumed reenactments Festival of Hydrangeas (June) Summer lake events Day Trips: Orvieto (30 minutes) Civita di Bagnoregio (30 minutes) Pitigliano (25 minutes) Viterbo (40 minutes) Easy access to Tuscany and Umbria Food: Fresh lake fish: coregone, fried latterini Local wines from volcanic soils Traditional Lazio cuisine Daily Life Through the Seasons Summer: The lake comes alive. Swimmers, sailors, families on beaches. Restaurants extend hours. The evening passeggiata along the lakeside promenade. The lake keeps things cooler than you'd expect. Autumn: Golden light on the water. Perfect weather for hiking and cycling. Quieter. Winter: The town returns to residents. Morning mists rise from the lake. The pace slows. Mild enough for outdoor dining on sunny days, even in January. Spring: Hydrangea blooms. Ideal conditions for exploring. The seasonal rhythm feels natural. Tourism adds life without overwhelming the place. Practical Challenges What to know: Car essential: Public transport is limited, especially weekends Seasonal variation: Some businesses reduce hours in winter; summer crowds affect parking near the lake Healthcare: Local services available; specialists require Viterbo or Rome Shopping: Local services are good; major shopping requires travel Language: Less English than tourist centers; Italian important for integration Rentals: Finding a long-term rental is difficult; buying is more realistic The Verdict: Bolsena at a Glance Ideal for: Those seeking lakeside living with historical character People who want good value in central Italy Lake enthusiasts—swimming, sailing, water sports History lovers interested in Etruscan, Roman, medieval layers Remote workers wanting peaceful surroundings Anyone wanting access to Tuscany, Umbria, and Rome without crowds Families attracted to clean water and outdoor life Consider carefully if: You need established English-language services and expat infrastructure You prefer mountains or cities over lakeside living You require immediate access to major medical facilities You need frequent public transport to major cities You want to rent rather than buy—the market is very limited Our assessment: Bolsena offers a combination that's hard to find: medieval town, volcanic lake, clean water, three regions within reach, and prices that haven't caught up with more famous destinations. Apartments start around €65,000 for properties needing work. The challenge is rentals. If you want to try before you buy, you'll likely need to do extended Airbnb stays. The long-term rental market barely exists. But what we found that morning—walking uphill through the stone streets, reaching that view over the lake—stayed with us. A working town, not a museum. A lake you can actually swim in. Easy access to places we already love. We said we'd be back. We meant it. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL.

PART 161: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then return again in the Spring, and spend the rest of the time in California (as I explained in a previous blog, we only live in Italy part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing.  This week, let's explore how to go green in the energy sector in Italy. Step 2: Our realtor introduced us to green energy through the company "Italia Gas e Luce." They assured us that switching to their services would save us money while contributing to the use of renewable energy. We made the switch, and now we are enjoying the benefits, including reduced energy costs. Step 3: Why go green? Energy is central to the climate challenge and essential for finding a solution. A significant portion of the greenhouse gases that surround the Earth and trap the sun's heat are produced through energy generation, primarily by burning fossil fuels for electricity and heating. Fossil fuels, including coal, oil, and natural gas, are the most significant contributors to global climate change, accounting for over 75 percent of global greenhouse gas emissions and nearly 90 percent of all carbon dioxide emissions. The science is unequivocal: to avoid the most severe impacts of climate change, we need to reduce emissions by almost half by 2030 and achieve net-zero emissions by 2050. To do this, we must eliminate our dependence on fossil fuels and invest in clean, accessible, affordable, sustainable, and reliable alternative energy sources. Renewable energy sources—such as solar, wind, hydropower, waste, and geothermal energy—are abundant and replenished naturally, emitting little to no greenhouse gases or pollutants into the atmosphere. While fossil fuels still account for more than 80 percent of global energy production, cleaner energy sources are making progress, with approximately 29 percent of electricity currently generated from renewable sources. Step 4: What is this company that relies on renewable energy? "American Power and Gas" ( https://americanpowerandgas.com/  ) is the parent company of Italia Gas e Luce . Founded by Tom Cummins and Jim Bridgeforth, the company aims to provide green energy solutions throughout the United States. According to their website, "We have established outstanding rebate programs, renewable energy options, and a strong demand for skilled and experienced live customer care personnel, all headquartered in the U.S." As American Power and Gas expanded internationally, Italia Gas e Luce  was established, bringing with it 30 years of experience in the energy sector from the United States. The company is dedicated solely to offering green energy sourced entirely from sustainable methods that do not rely on fossil fuels. Italia Gas e Luce  also provides competitive rates and efficient customer support. From the company website: "Switching to Italia Gas e Luce  can be advantageous, as we are innovative in every aspect, from our renewable energy supply to our customer service. By choosing Italia Gas e Luce as your energy supplier, you can play a crucial role in helping the planet move toward a better future." The energy supplied by Italia Gas e Luce  is generated entirely from non-polluting, 100% sustainable sources, including energy produced from water, sunlight, and wind. Step 4: 100% Green Energy Italia Gas e Luce  has consistently focused on providing its customers with 100% green energy sourced exclusively from renewable resources. This means no oil or coal—only energy generated from water, sunlight, and wind, all of which are certified as environmentally friendly. The source of this energy is guaranteed through certificates issued by the GSE (Gestore Servizi Elettrici), which confirm that the energy comes from wind, photovoltaic, geothermal, and other renewable sources. Again, from the company: "As soon as you become an IGL customer, this certificate will be sent to you via email. You can use it to demonstrate your commitment to protecting the planet by displaying it in your home or office and sharing it with your customers and friends." Step 5: Financial Incentives For each utility—electricity and/or gas—supplied by Italia Gas e Luce  for 12 consecutive months, the company will calculate the average monthly expenditure based on your invoices. Consequently, you will receive a guaranteed refund of 25% on that average amount, and this offer is valid every year. Step 6: Costs of Italia Gas e Luce The costs associated with Italia Gas e Luce (IGL) are quite competitive, and our expenses in Tuscany are lower than they were before the switch. What distinguishes IGL from many other suppliers is its commitment to providing 100% green and ecological energy, along with one of the best customer service experiences in Italy. According to the company's website, "Customers of IGL are consistently satisfied with the ease and speed of reaching customer service, whether by phone or email. Services such as meter closures, connections, transfers, and new activations with IGL are provided at no additional charge. The only extra costs you will see on your invoice are those charged by the distributor." Step 7: How to Sign Up If you own or will buy a home in Italy, you can sign up! Since we use Italia Gas e Luce  at our home in Tuscany, we enjoy their referral program, and you can too by referring others. This program rewards your loyalty and encourages you to share the benefits of Italia Gas e Luce  (IGL) with your friends and family. Italia Gas e Luce  is a 100% renewable energy company operating throughout Italy. They currently have a special promotion offering excellent discounts. You can sign up for free in just five minutes, with no activation fees. For every person you refer, you can earn €30! You can sign up here, using a special offers referral code E473309. https://italiagaseluce.it/offerta-social-special-30/ More next time.

Where Medieval Tuscany Meets Modern Connectivity NEW BLOG SERIES! About This Series : Living part-time in Tuscany has turned us into passionate scouts for towns that could welcome fellow international residents. After years of splitting our time between southern Tuscany and California, we've learned to evaluate places through the lens of someone considering making Italy home. During the following months each blog will be dedicated to a unique town, examining everything from practical conveniences and community life to tourist impact and daily challenges. Our goal is to provide authentic, unvarnished insights for fellow international residents considering making Italy home, whether full-time or part-time. This week, we're exploring Santa Fiora. This isn't the typical Tuscan hill town that graces postcards—it's a mountain village on the southern slope of Mount Amiata, with medieval churches, a famous fish pond, and Italy's first "Smart Village" fiber optic infrastructure. If you're a remote worker looking for affordable, authentic Italian life with reliable internet, Santa Fiora deserves a serious look. Our Experience Since Santa Fiora is only about 15 minutes from our first house in Tuscany, it didn't take long for us to discover this wonderful town. We first stumbled upon it when our contractor and friend met us for lunch at a local workers' restaurant. The food was excellent, the prices were reasonable, and the friendship was palpable. After our meal, we drove down to central Piazza Garibaldi, where our friend urged us to follow one of the paths through the historic center until we reached the famous Peschiera—the medieval fish pond. Along the way, we discovered several historic churches, including one containing beautiful ceramic artwork by Andrea della Robbia. Once we reached the bottom of the village, we looked back up and saw a beautiful medieval town climbing the hillside. We returned often to Santa Fiora because the town is charming, the people are friendly, and the food is great. When we decided to sell our house in Arcidosso to take on a bigger renovation project, through a series of unforeseen events, we ended up buying an unfinished home in Santa Fiora owned by our contractor friend. By the time this blog is published, the renovation of our home in Santa Fiora should we complete. So our adventure in this remarkable place continues as we make our home there. Location & Accessibility Santa Fiora sits at about 2,250 feet on Mount Amiata's southern slope, in the province of Grosseto. Transportation Options: Airports:  Florence and Rome Fiumicino are each 2.5-3 hours by car. Rome Ciampino is about 2 hours 45 minutes. Trains:  No direct rail service. The nearest major station is Grosseto (about an hour's drive), with high-speed trains to Rome. Buses:  TIEMME runs local buses to Grosseto via Arcidosso, but service is limited—about 3 hours with transfers. Weekend service is sparse. Nearby:  Arcidosso (15 minutes), Castel del Piano (20 minutes), Saturnia thermal springs (45 minutes), Siena (1 hour 25 minutes) You'll need a car. Public transportation exists, but it's designed for locals making occasional trips, not for regular access to airports or cities. Historical Significance Santa Fiora has a long history. First mentioned in 890 AD, it became the seat of the powerful Aldobrandeschi family—important enough that Dante mentioned Count Omberto Aldobrandeschi in the Divine Comedy. The town served as capital of its own independent state, the County of Santa Fiora. In 1439, a marriage between Bosio I Sforza and Cecilia Aldobrandeschi brought the Sforza dynasty to power. Florence eventually absorbed the territory in 1633. What funded all this? Cinnabar mines beneath the mountain. Mercury extraction created the wealth that built the palazzos and churches you still see today. The town also historically welcomed diverse communities, including Jewish families from the 16th-18th centuries. Visual Character The historic center spreads across a volcanic stone hill, divided into three neighborhoods: Castello (the oldest part), Borgo (where artisans worked), and Montecatino (the "newer" section—still medieval). The main landmark is Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, built in 1575 over the original Aldobrandeschi castle ruins, flanked by two surviving medieval towers. Chestnut forests surround the town on the mountain slopes. It's officially recognized as one of "I Borghi più belli d'Italia"—Italy's most beautiful villages. Distinctive Features La Peschiera: The famous 16th-century fish pond, surrounded by gardens. Noble families once sourced their dinners here. Today it's a peaceful park where families feed enormous fish and children play. Churches: Chiesa della Madonna delle Nevi:  Glass floor panels reveal the Fiora River rushing beneath your feet. Parish Church of Sante Flora and Lucilla:  One of the largest collections of Della Robbia terracottas in Italy. Art historians travel from around the world to see it. Smart Village: Santa Fiora is Italy's first official "Smart Village," with fiber optic throughout town and municipal incentives for remote workers. The town has embraced modern connectivity while keeping its medieval character. Mercury Mine Museum: Documents the industrial heritage that funded the town's prosperity. Practical Conveniences Basic Information: Population:  About 2,500 Internet:  High-speed fiber optic throughout town—excellent for remote work Housing Costs: Rentals:  Very limited. When available, basic apartments run €600-€900/month. The municipality offers rent subsidies (up to €200 or 50% of monthly rent for 2-6 months) for remote workers, but finding rentals is the challenge. Buying:  Significantly below provincial averages—about €1,000-€1,200 per square meter versus the provincial average of €2,586. Renovation projects start around €80,000-€120,000. Habitable apartments run €120,000-€200,000. Houses with gardens typically €150,000-€300,000+. Note:  Prices from Immobiliare.it and local sources (2025). Services: Basic needs met locally: supermarket, pharmacy, essential services Major shopping requires trips to larger towns Geothermal district heating available in newer parts of town, which reduces heating costs significantly Community & Social Life Santa Fiora is a small, tight-knit mountain community. About 2,500 people, and you'll quickly become a familiar face. The town genuinely welcomes international residents, particularly remote workers. The Smart Village project includes municipal assistance for housing and integration. Italian is important here. English has limited utility in daily life. But the community is warm, and people appreciate newcomers who make an effort to integrate. There's a calendar of traditional festivals, summer concerts, and seasonal celebrations. Community identity is strong. Tourist Impact Santa Fiora sees minimal tourism. Some visitors come during summer festivals, and weekend day-trippers stop by from the thermal springs at Saturnia. But there's no overcrowding, no strain on services, no inflated prices. The town maintains its genuine character year-round. Visitors tend to be respectful—cultural tourists, not tour bus crowds. This is the ideal balance: enough tourism to support local businesses, not enough to overwhelm the community. Cultural Attractions & Leisure Historic Sites: Palazzo Sforza Cesarini with medieval towers Parish Church with Della Robbia terracottas Chiesa della Madonna delle Nevi with glass floor Mercury Mine Museum The Peschiera: Peaceful walks, fish feeding, a quiet place to sit and think. Festivals: "Santa Fiora in Music" summer concerts Palio delle Sante Flora e Lucilla (July) Autumn mushroom and chestnut celebrations Day Trips: Saturnia thermal springs (45 minutes) Val d'Orcia: Pienza (30 minutes), Bagno Vignoni (25 minutes), Montalcino (45 minutes), Montepulciano (1 hour) Outdoors: Monte Amiata hiking trails Chestnut forest walks Mountain biking Seasonal mushroom foraging Food: Amiata brown chestnuts (PGI designation) Seggiano olive oil (PDO) Local mushrooms Mountain produce Daily Life Through the Seasons Santa Fiora has a real mountain climate—not the mild coastal weather of lower Tuscany. Summer:  Comfortable, reaching about 86°F maximum in August. Festivals bring energy to the medieval streets. This is when the town feels most alive. Autumn:  Mushroom and chestnut season. Rainy—November is the wettest month. Beautiful foliage in the chestnut forests. Winter:  Cold. Lows around 39°F in January, and at 2,250 feet, you'll need proper winter clothing. The town gets quiet. Many businesses reduce hours. Spring:  The mountain wakes up. Good hiking weather. The seasonal rhythm is real. Summers are vibrant; winters are very quiet. Some people love that contrast. Others find the off-season too still. Practical Challenges What to know: Car:  Essential. Public transport serves only occasional local needs. Language:  Italian proficiency matters for daily life and community relationships. Jobs:  Minimal local employment. Remote work is essential for most international residents. Seasonal quiet:  The town gets very quiet outside summer. Some businesses reduce hours or close temporarily. Healthcare:  Basic services locally; hospital and specialized care in nearby Castel del Piano. Shopping:  Daily necessities available; major shopping requires driving. Weather:  Mountain climate means cold, wet winters. Plan accordingly. The Verdict: Santa Fiora at a Glance Ideal for: Remote workers seeking peaceful mountain living with excellent internet Those wanting affordable access to authentic Italian life History enthusiasts who appreciate living among centuries of culture Nature lovers ready for mountain rhythms and seasonal changes People seeking genuine integration where neighbors become friends Consider carefully if: You need extensive English-speaking services You depend on local employment You need frequent public transport to major cities You want consistent year-round activity Cold, wet winters and seasonal business closures would bother you You prefer urban amenities over village simplicity Our assessment:  Santa Fiora works for the right person. The Smart Village infrastructure makes it unusually practical for remote workers—fiber optic internet in a medieval mountain village is genuinely rare. Housing prices are well below the provincial average, making it accessible in ways that more famous Tuscan towns aren't. But success here requires embracing the quiet. Summers are lively, with festivals and community life. Winters are still—very still. The streets empty, businesses slow down, and you're living in a small mountain village that feels like a small mountain village. We bought a house here, so clearly we think it works. The people are friendly, the setting is beautiful, and the food is great. But it's not for everyone. If you need constant activity, or if winter quiet would feel like isolation, look elsewhere. If you find peace in seasonal rhythms and don't mind being the town's international resident, Santa Fiora offers something genuinely special. Since we will be living in Santa Fiora part time, twice a year, it totally works for us. We love it. More next time : We'll continue exploring other captivating towns in our area that caught our attention during our ongoing search for perfect destinations for international residents. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond.   https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma":   https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 167:  It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then return again in the Spring, and spend the rest of the time in California (as I explained in a previous blog, we only live in Italy part of the year). Step 1:  As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's explore some of the towns in Italy that have notable festivals. Step 2: A reader's suggestion I am grateful to sometimes receive suggestions for future blog topics. This week, a reader wrote in asking how to find out which towns and regions host specific festivals. "Is there a 'master list' that can be referenced? This information is important for me in deciding where to live." It's a great question. And if you're thinking about where to live in Italy, festivals actually tell you a lot about a town. Step 3: Is there a complete list? While some websites claim to have a "complete list" of festivals in Italy, to my knowledge, no such complete list exists. There are, however, partial lists that reflect the knowledge and experiences of the writers who created them. So I pulled from several of those, added my own experience, and organized everything by season. Let's take a look. Step 4: Carnevale "Carnevale" originates from Latin and refers to Carnival, the festive season celebrated before Lent in many Roman Catholic countries. This period is characterized by feasting, parades, masquerades, and general merriment — often regarded as the last chance for indulgence before the more austere season of Lent begins. Venice:  The largest and most well-known Carnevale celebration takes place here. https://www.walksofitaly.com/blog/things-to-do/carnevale-in-venice Viareggio:  Located farther south, Viareggio hosts spectacular Carnevale celebrations every Sunday in February, featuring massive man-made floats. The themes range from beautiful scenes to satirical political commentary. https://viareggio.ilcarnevale.com/en/ Acireale, Sicily:  Acireale's Carnevale is considered one of the most beautiful in Sicily. Parades are held in the town's historic Baroque center, showcasing allegorical papier-mâché floats and famous flower floats. https://www.carnevaleacireale.eu/en Putignano, Puglia:  Puglia is home to more Carnival celebrations than any other region in Italy, but special mention goes to Putignano for being Italy's longest and possibly oldest celebration. https://www.carnevalediputignano.it/ Step 5: Spring festivals Once Carnevale wraps up, spring gets going — and the festivals shift. You'll find religious processions, traditions that go back centuries, and some wonderfully odd local events. Ravello:  This popular destination attracts travelers year-round, but it becomes even busier during specific dates in spring and autumn for the annual Ravello Arts Concerts. During this time, music lovers fill the gardens and banquet halls of the historic Villa Rufolo. https://ravellofestival.info/ Trapani, Sicily:  The Procession of the Mysteries is one of the most famous Easter events in Italy. Since 1400, this festival has featured parades and pilgrimages, making it one of the country's oldest. It also lasts an astonishing 24 hours, making it one of the longest. https://www.italia.it/en/sicily/things-to-do/misteri-di-trapani-history-and-route Florence:  Easter Sunday is celebrated with the Scoppio del Carro fireworks — a dazzling spectacle featuring a 30-foot antique cart filled with fireworks, white oxen, a mechanical dove, and a procession of musicians and Florentines dressed in medieval costumes. https://www.tuscanynowandmore.com/discover-italy/essential-advice/scoppio-del-carro La Cavalcata Sarda, Sardinia:  To welcome the arrival of spring, Sardinia hosts one of its biggest events in Sassari — the Cavalcata Sarda, or Sardinian Horse Race — on the second-to-last Sunday of May. https://www.sardegnaturismo.it/en/cavalcata-sarda-festival-beauty Festa dei Ceri, Gubbio:  Every year on May 15th, the people of Gubbio participate in a mystical procession, carrying enormous wooden "candles" from the town center up Mount Ingino to the Basilica of St. Ubaldo. https://www.italyguides.it/en/umbria/gubbio/travel-guides/travel-tips/festival-of-the-ceri Cocullo, Abruzzo:  On May 1st, the Snake Festival takes place in the tiny medieval town of Cocullo. Local snake catchers and charmers, known as serpari, compete to catch four types of harmless snakes. These snakes are then distributed to worshippers, who gently place them on a wooden statue of San Domenico, their patron saint. https://lifeinabruzzo.com/cocullo-snake-festival/ Palio dei Somari, Torrita di Siena:  Approximately 80 km southeast of Florence, the Palio dei Somari (donkey race) takes place on the first Sunday after March 19th. Eight districts compete, with jockeys striving to be the first across the finish line. https://www.visittuscany.com/en/events/palio-dei-somari/ Fermignano, Le Marche:  The Palio della Rana features contestants dressed in historic costumes racing their frogs on wheelbarrows. Yes, you read that correctly. https://www.italy-villas.com/to-italy/2019/events/easter/palio-della-rana Sagra del Pesce, Camogli, Liguria:  Seafood lovers should not miss the Sagra del Pesce (Fish Festival) in Camogli, celebrated on the second Sunday of May and dedicated to all things fish. https://www.tasteatlas.com/la-sagra-del-pesce-camogli Matera:  The Festa della Madonna Bruna is held on July 2nd to honor the Madonna, the city's patron saint. The day begins with a solemn religious procession through Matera's UNESCO-listed stone streets and culminates in the spectacular destruction of a giant papier-mâché float. https://www.lalucana.com/post/festa-della-bruna La Quintana, Ascoli Piceno:  For a taste of medieval Italy, visit Ascoli Piceno for the La Quintana festival, held in July and August. This event transports visitors back to the days of knights and jousting tournaments, with a grand medieval joust as its highlight. https://www.italymagazine.com/featured-story/quintana-ascoli-piceno And there are many more spring festivals to explore! Step 6: Summer festivals Summer is when Italy really comes alive with festivals. Long evenings, open-air stages, and some of the country's biggest competitions. Vogalonga Regata, Venice:  This enormous gondola race was created to protest the use of motor traffic in Venice's canals and to renew pride in Venetian handicrafts and traditions. Each year on Pentecost, approximately 1,550 boats with about 5,800 rowers participate. https://vogalonga.com/en/ Festival of St. Ranieri, Pisa (June 16–17):  On June 16th, the churches and buildings lining the Arno, including the cathedral that houses the saint's remains, are illuminated with over 70,000 lights and candles. https://www.visittuscany.com/en/events/luminara-of-san-ranieri-in-pisa/ International Festival of Arts, Taormina, Sicily (June–August):  Also known as Taormina Arte, this cultural festival runs throughout the summer, hosting concerts, exhibitions, and the Taormina Film Fest. https://taorminaarte.org/ Taormina Opera Festival (June–September):  Coinciding with the art festival, Taormina's Summer Opera Festival starts in April and continues through the summer, with some concerts running until December at the open-air Greek theatre. https://www.italianoperataormina.com/ Verona Arena Summer Opera Season (June 13–September 5):  Each summer marks the beginning of Verona's summer opera season. With affordable tickets and outstanding performances, this is a great way to experience opera in an incredible setting. https://www.walksofitaly.com/blog/art-culture/attending-opera-in-the-arena-of-verona Perugia Jazz Festival (July):  Each July, Perugia hosts a 10-day jazz festival. Music lovers flock to the town's piazzas, gardens, and wine bars to enjoy one of the world's best-known jazz events. https://www.umbriajazz.it/en/ Palio dell'Assunta, Siena (August 16):  This ancient horse race is held twice each year, on July 2 and August 16. The August race tends to be the most famous, as it falls near a national holiday. https://www.visittuscany.com/en/events/palio-di-siena-tuscany/ Step 7: Fall and winter festivals Once the heat dies down, Italy moves into harvest season. That means food festivals, historic pageants, and the slow build toward the holidays. Regata Storica di Venezia, Venice:  Practiced for thousands of years, Venice's Historical Regatta is a grand event featuring a water pageant showcasing costumes and boats from the 16th century. The procession includes the Doge of Venice, his family, and all the officers, traveling up the Grand Canal. https://www.regatastoricavenezia.it/en/ Italy's Sagre Harvest Festivals (October–November):  October and November are prime months for some of Italy's most beloved festivals — known as sagre, or food festivals. These typically focus on a single seasonal ingredient and celebrate the harvest and the changing of the seasons. Some of the most famous are the truffle festivals in Piedmont and Umbria, the chestnut sagre in Tuscany, and the olive sagre in Puglia. There are so many sagre in Italy that the best way to find one near you is to ask locals. Here is a partial list: https://www.visititaly.eu/food-and-flavours/festivals-in-italy-the-most-famous-in-each-region The Chestnut Festival, Arcidosso:  This festival takes place in the Monte Amiata area and celebrates not only chestnuts and chestnut dishes but also the town of Arcidosso itself. Many historical landmarks can be found in and around the area, making the festival a great opportunity to experience them. Festival-goers can even attend tours of the nearby chestnut woods. https://www.valdorciamiata.it/en/the-chestnut-festival-of-arcidosso/ Immaculate Conception (December 8):  This traditionally Catholic holiday celebrates the Virgin Mary's immaculate conception. Italians use this date to mark the official start of the winter holiday season, when trees, lights, and decorations go up across the country, and Christmas markets spring up in cities and towns. https://www.walksofitaly.com/blog/things-to-do/christmas-markets-italy Christmas Day and Santo Stefano (December 25–26):  On Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, you can participate in a midnight mass in any town in Italy and enjoy the various nativity scenes set up in seemingly every spare corner. In some places where locals take pride in their nativity scenes, like Assisi, these displays may even feature real people and animals. https://www.umbriatourism.it/en/-/living-and-artistic-nativity-scenes-in-the-assisi-area La Fiaccolata, Santa Fiora (December 30):  I saved this one for last because it happens in our town. On the evening of December 30th, Santa Fiora holds its own version of New Year's Eve — a torchlight procession that winds through the narrow streets and alleys of the historic center, ending at the base of the town hall tower where a large bonfire is lit. It's a tradition with medieval roots, and the whole town comes out for it. There's something about standing in those stone streets with the flames lighting up the buildings around you that stays with you. If you're in the Monte Amiata area around the holidays, this is one you don't want to miss. https://www.visittuscany.com/en/ideas/10-fire-festivals-in-tuscany/ And many more! Insights: One thing that stands out when you look at Italian festivals as a whole is how tied they are to the rhythm of the year. Carnevale ushers in the end of winter with spectacle and satire. Spring brings processions rooted in centuries of faith and tradition. Summer fills ancient arenas and piazzas with music and competition. And fall circles back to the land itself, with sagre celebrating whatever the harvest brings in. What also strikes me is the variety. In the same country, you'll find solemn 24-hour Easter processions, frog races on wheelbarrows, snake festivals, and world-class opera under the stars. There's no single way Italy does festivals. For those of you considering where to live in Italy, even part-time, festivals matter more than you might expect. They tell you a lot about a town. And as I mentioned, no complete list exists. The websites I've shared are good starting points, but our experience living in both Puglia and Tuscany has taught us that the best festival tips come from the people around you. A neighbor mentions a sagra in the next village. A friend insists you join them for a procession you've never heard of. The longer we live here, the more I'm convinced that life in Italy is built around these connections — and festivals are often where they begin. Sources https://www.walksofitaly.com/blog/things-to-do/italian-festivals-guide#Spring https://bookingsforyou.com/blog/the-most-unusual-festivals-in-italy/ https://issimoissimo.com/blogs/news/italys-weirdest-festivals https://medium.com/@EUBlogshub/underrated-italian-festivals-to-experience-this-year-739212065f51 More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 159: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We spend the Fall in Tuscany, then return in the Spring, and spend the rest of the time in California (as I explained in a previous blog, we only live in Italy part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing.  This week, let's explore the three homes we have had in Italy. Yes, we have one home at a time! Step 2: Puglia as home. Renting We turned to our Italian friends when we first decided to live in Italy. They lived in Rome but returned each summer to homes they owned in Puglia. Where to live was a daunting question. We explored numerous towns and villages before settling on Salento, in southern Puglia, because we already had a sense of community there. During our first visit to the area, we noticed our friend was renovating a property he had just purchased. He had updated it to modern standards, added a second bathroom, and was building an awning for the rooftop terrace. We walked in and wondered: should we ask if we could rent it? He agreed immediately. That's how our life in Italy took shape—two weeks at first, then three months, then a year-long lease. Renting turned out to be an excellent way to start. Rather than committing to one place, we could experience southern Puglia and see if it truly fit. It offered flexibility—the freedom to move on if we wanted, no responsibility for upkeep, no worries about reselling. But it came with trade-offs. If the owner decided to sell, we had no say in the matter, and we couldn't make the place our own. Experience is the best teacher, and ours eventually led us away from Puglia. In another blog, I explained why we left for Tuscany. In short, the lifestyle felt too similar to southern California. We hadn't come all the way to Italy to replicate the life we'd left behind. Step 3: Tuscany as home. Buying, renovating, and then selling. I always assumed Tuscany was out of reach, so I never seriously considered it. But our friends in Puglia kept urging us to visit the Monte Amiata region in the south. Housing was affordable, they said, and they believed we would love it. A year or two passed before we finally made the drive. We assumed we would rent again. Our friends gave us a list of towns to explore, and I scheduled a few property viewings—not because we intended to buy, just to see what was out there. I've written about our shift from renting to buying in earlier blogs. It happened organically. We were comfortable as renters. But when we walked into a home for sale in Arcidosso, full of old stone and beamed ceilings, we looked at each other and had the same thought: this is a gem. Maybe we should buy it. The decision to make an offer was almost impulsive—if they accepted, great; if not, that was fine. We weren't attached to the outcome. They accepted. We bought the house and began renovating. To summarize the renovation: we wanted to preserve what made the house special while updating it so we would feel at home. We accomplished that, and we're proud of the result. When we finished, my partner asked if we might sell and take on something bigger in the same area. We had learned so much from the experience. At first I resisted, but eventually I came around, and we put the house on the market. It sold a few months ago. Now we're ready for what's next. Step 4: Return to Tuscany as home. A bigger project and challenge We're about to take on a larger renovation—and a real challenge. The unit sits in a modern six-unit building, completely gutted. There's no charm to work with. Our task is to create warmth and character while adding modern amenities—a space that feels like Tuscany but works for how we live. We believe it's possible, though we're still working out how. Insights: Each home taught us something different. Renting in Puglia showed us that you don't need to own a home to build a life in Italy. It gave us time to learn the rhythms of a place without the pressure of a long-term commitment. If you're considering a move to Italy, renting first is one of the smartest things you can do. It lets you test your assumptions before they become expensive ones. Buying in Arcidosso taught us that the right home doesn't always arrive on schedule. We weren't looking to buy—but we were open to it when the moment felt right. We made the offer without putting pressure on ourselves, and that made all the difference. Renovating taught us even more: how Italian contractors work, how to navigate permits, and how to balance preservation with comfort. Selling taught us that a home can be a chapter, not a forever commitment. Letting go of something we'd built with our own vision wasn't easy, but it opened the door to something bigger. And now, starting from a gutted shell with no existing character, we face the opposite challenge from Arcidosso. There, we preserved what was already beautiful. Here, we have to create it from nothing. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

This is a bonus blog this week! It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I'll post some steps and what we've learned along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is now our life. We live in Tuscany in the fall, then return in the spring, and spend the rest of the year in California (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). As we explore different areas, we discover gems worth sharing—some are well-known tourist magnets, others are lesser-known but always worth the visit. Step 1:   This week, let's explore how to live in Italy for part of the year (like us!). Step 2: Background When my partner and I first discussed living in Europe after retirement, we assumed our only option was to move there full time—establish residency and cut ties with the US. But obstacles got in the way. We had obligations in California, and my partner wasn't fully sold on the idea of a permanent life abroad. It took us a while to learn about the Schengen Zone ( https://www.marktedesco.com/post/the-schengen-shuffle ) and its guiding principle: one can remain in the EU (countries that are part of the zone) for 90 days out of every 180. Eventually it became clear that living in Italy part time—twice a year for two to three months—was the best fit for us. I don't claim to be an expert on relocation, but in this blog I'll share some of our experiences. Step 3: Budget The first step in our journey was defining our budget. After accounting for our mortgage, car insurance, and other expenses in California, how much could we actually afford to spend on housing and transportation in Italy? Working through those numbers kept us from wasting time on cities and areas where housing was beyond our reach—and it had an unexpected side benefit. It forced me to take a hard look at unnecessary spending back home. Too many Amazon orders, for one. For anyone considering a part-time life in Italy, getting clear on the budget early makes everything that follows more manageable. Step 4: Housing We found that renting in Italy can be much cheaper than in California, especially outside major cities. We started out in Puglia, where we rented a two-bedroom, two-bath apartment for 2,000 euros a year, plus utilities. In our current area of southern Tuscany, rents typically run 400–500 euros a month. We rented in Puglia for about 18 months before deciding to buy in Tuscany ( https://www.marktedesco.com/post/our-italian-adventure-housing-from-renting-to-buying ). Our budget put us in the 70,000–80,000 euro range, with a little left over for renovations. We didn't think we could find anything in that range in Tuscany until our friends in Puglia encouraged us to visit the Monte Amiata area, in the southern part of the region, where historical homes could still be found at affordable prices. We planned a trip and realized the area would be a great fit: near the cultural and natural sites Tuscany is famous for, and accessible to miles of hiking trails, ski runs, and mountain biking. Culture and nature together drew us there. On that visit, we found a house, made an offer, and it was accepted. We took a 15th-century home and upgraded it with modern amenities while preserving its character. We've since sold that house and bought another in the same area, which we are renovating now. I've written about that journey in earlier blogs. The lesson in all of this: once you've established a budget, it becomes much easier to decide which areas fit and which to rule out. Our local friends helped steer us toward areas they thought matched what we were looking for, and we ended up with a great realtor team who have since become friends. For anyone ready to begin, the process looks something like this: research on sites such as Casa.it , then reaching out to a local realtor to get a feel for their service and availability, and finally visiting the town in person. There's no other way to get a sense of a place than going there. Step 5: Transportation When we started out in Puglia, we quickly realized that a car was necessary to see the things we came to Italy for. Our local friends told us about a rental service, run by friends of friends, where one could rent used cars — insurance included — starting at 15 euros a day. We used their services the entire time we were in Puglia. The only downside was that the lower-end cars weren't reliable for long trips, so when we drove to the Amalfi coast, for example, we rented a different car. We haven't found a similar service in Tuscany. Our area isn't well served by trains — the closest major station is in Grosseto, about a 50-minute drive — so a car here isn't optional. And for much of Tuscany, that's the reality. Public transportation simply doesn't reach the places that make this region worth living in. I've written a few blogs about renting and leasing in Italy ( https://www.marktedesco.com/post/our-italian-adventure-updates-on-reducing-the-cost-of-renting-a-car-in-italy ), so I won't repeat all of that here. But no matter how one goes about it, having a car is a major expense — and the options are limited. Registering a car is tied to residency, so purchasing one while maintaining residency elsewhere isn't possible. That leaves leasing (which can be cheaper for stays of two months or more) or renting (daily or long term). We go back and forth between the Renault lease program and the long-term rental option from Sicily By Car. Both have drawbacks, but they're the best options we've found so far. Calculating transportation costs early is essential. It's one of the less glamorous parts of planning a life in Italy, but it shapes daily life more than most people expect. Step 6: Relationships Relationships are what make life flow in Italy. Whether we've been baffled by bureaucratic procedures, cultural differences, or access to services, our local friends and acquaintances have smoothed the way. How do I pay the property taxes? How does recycling work? What's the easiest way to get to Florence? Where can we find tile in our area? Every one of these questions has been answered by someone we know, not by a guidebook. But relationships here go beyond solving problems. We come from a culture of "getting things done," and sometimes we forget to pause and experience the people around us. Living in Italy is helping us slow down, enjoy the moment, make time for friendships, and reconsider what matters most. Taking the time to cultivate those connections has been one of the most important steps in building a life here. Step 7: Experience I'm a retired high school teacher, and my students taught me that experience is the best teacher. When they became glassy-eyed as I explained the glories of the Italian Renaissance, I knew something was wrong. The subject was fascinating to me — so why not to them? Because it was abstract. They had nothing to connect it to. So we organized a tour of Florence in the classroom, setting up seven or eight stations that students would visit in groups and complete a task. One station was Brunelleschi's dome, where students had to figure out how to create a dome with their bodies, using their hands to balance the student on the other side, and then write about the engineering principles at work. At another, they watched a two-minute video on Michelangelo's David and made a quick sketch in their notebooks. The next day, their boredom had turned to interest — because now they had experience to reflect on, not just ideas. Living in Italy has worked on us the same way. For example, our Italian friends tend to be more spontaneous than our American friends, often inviting us to a local festival or a pizza outing only hours beforehand. We learned to stop resisting and say yes. Each invitation became its own kind of lesson — not just about Italian culture, but about ourselves. The more we experienced life here, the more we began to question assumptions we'd carried from home. What we thought was the "right" way to do things turned out to be just one way. That openness has changed how we see other cultures, and it's changed how we see our own. Insights Living in Italy part time didn't happen all at once—it came together in steps, each one building on the last. It started with a practical question: could we afford it? Defining our budget gave us clarity and kept us from chasing places that were out of reach. That single step narrowed the field and made everything that followed more manageable. Housing taught us to be flexible. Renting first gave us time to learn the rhythms of a place without the weight of ownership. When we eventually bought, it was because the right opportunity appeared—not because we forced it. And when we sold, we discovered that a home can be a chapter rather than a final destination. Transportation is one of the less glamorous realities, but it shapes daily life more than people expect. In much of Tuscany, a car isn't optional—it's essential. Building that cost into the budget early saved us from surprises later. Of everything we've learned, relationships have mattered the most. Our local friends have guided us through bureaucracy, connected us with services, and invited us into a way of life we never could have accessed on our own. Investing in those friendships hasn't just made logistics easier—it has changed how we experience Italy. And finally, experience itself has been our greatest teacher. Every step—renting, buying, renovating, selling, starting over—taught us something we couldn't have learned any other way. The willingness to say yes, to be spontaneous, to trust the process, has made this life possible. For anyone considering a part-time life in Italy: start with your budget, rent before you buy, invest in relationships, and trust that each step will teach you what you need for the next one. More next time. Something new: for those who prefer video (Vlog) rather than this blog, here is a video version: https://youtu.be/I7lt1U5nULc My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! Onward: A Life on a Sailboat  is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE

PART 165: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then return again in the Spring, and spend the rest of the time in California (as I explained in a previous blog, we only live in Italy part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing.  This week, let's explore dealing with utilities and other similar issues that foreigners in Italy might have. Step 2: I often receive suggestions from my blog readers, and I genuinely appreciate them. This week, I received a suggestion that I'd like to address (at least parts of it): "Could you write about all aspects of dealing with local utilities? Topics could include trash collection, tips for managing water shortages, the use of public water spigots, and the use of wells on private property. Additionally, please provide information about average electricity usage and whether it's advisable to disconnect services when away for three months." I am no expert on these issues, but will share some of our experience. Step 3: Utilities: Gas, electricity, and water The energy efficiency of each house varies, making it challenging to estimate energy costs for a specific property. In Italy, the standard household power capacity is typically 3.3 kilowatts (or 3,300 watts). This is often the default setting for residential electricity contracts and is generally sufficient for running common household appliances. When we lived in Puglia, 3.3 kilowatts met our needs. The energy systems in our house relied on both gas and electricity. While we couldn't run the washing machine and dishwasher simultaneously without tripping the circuit breaker, it was easy to stagger our use of energy-intensive appliances. Living within the 3.3 kilowatt limit was manageable. Upon moving to Tuscany, we purchased a house that relied solely on electricity, as there were no gas lines in the 16th-century building. We underestimated the impact this would have until we turned on the oven and used the hot water, causing a power outage. After resetting the breaker, we attempted to use the microwave and television, only to experience another shutdown of the circuit breaker. We were hesitant to even attempt using the washing machine. We contacted our realtor for assistance, and he arranged for an increase in our electricity capacity to 6.6 kilowatts. Since making that change, we haven't faced any electricity issues. Since we are not currently relying on gas in our home in Tuscany, I will leave it at that. Step 4: What about electricity averages and rates? The average cost of electricity in Italy for a small 70-square-meter apartment in 2025 is estimated to be between €70 and €120 per month. If you are on the government-regulated market, the cost of energy per kWh is approximately €0.16053/kWh. However, by switching to an energy company on the free market, you might find more affordable rates, with some offers starting as low as €0.107/kWh. It's essential to note that rates can vary based on several factors, including daily consumption and billing methods. Choosing a more advantageous supplier in the free market can often lead to significant savings. Our realtor introduced us to a more cost-effective and environmentally friendly energy alternative in the free market: "Italia Gas e Luce". This company provides energy services throughout Italy and relies predominantly on clean, wind energy. Since we made the switch, our electric bill has decreased. As of June 2025, their electricity tariff is: June Electricity Tariff: €0.1415/kWh "Italia Gas e Luce" is a 100% renewable energy company operating across Italy. They currently offer excellent promotions, allowing you to sign up for free in just five minutes with no activation fees. Additionally, for every person you refer, you can earn €30! You can sign up here: https://www.plank.global/plank/attivaonline/IGL/index.php?custarea=1&refcode=E473309&lang=italian In summary, you can lower your energy bills by switching from your regulated energy provider in Italy to a free market company like "Italia Gas e Luce". Step 5: Water Factors Affecting Water Bill Costs in Italy: Your location, specific water provider, and personal water usage habits all influence your final bill. According to Statista ( https://www.statista.com/statistics/867875/water-price-index-in-italy/ ), the average annual water bill for a household in Italy is approximately €487; however, ours is much lower than this figure. For accurate information about average water costs in a specific area, consulting a knowledgeable real estate agent is recommended. Our agent has guided us through all these issues. Is the Water Safe? Europe is known for having some of the cleanest drinking water globally, and Italy ranks high on this list. The Environmental Performance Index (EPI) places Italy second in the world for sanitation and drinking water, following only Singapore. In areas where water is not safe to drink, there will typically be a clear sign indicating this, often displaying phrases like "acqua non potabile" (non-potable water). Most tap water in Italy is sourced from springs and wells, similar to the sources used by ancient Romans. The sources of freshwater can vary significantly across different regions in Italy. For example, Rome obtains its drinking water from springs and wells, while Northern Italy benefits from the abundance of fresh water from the surrounding mountains. Italy adheres to the EU's Water Framework Directive and regularly monitors tap water treatment. The Italian National Institute of Health (ISS) is responsible for ensuring that all Italians have access to safe and clean drinking water. The ISS conducts regular checks for contaminants and evaluates the effectiveness of water treatment processes. Step 6: Trash collection In Italy, the cost of trash collection is covered by a local tax called TARI (Tassa sui Rifiuti). This municipal charge must be paid by all property owners and tenants for solid waste collection and disposal services. In a previous blog, I explained how recycling works in Italy; however, this time I want to focus on the TARI tax and its relationship to trash collection payments. In our municipality, TARI bills are sent exclusively through regular mail to be collected from our mailbox upon our return. A helpful official at our city hall (Comune) explained this to me. When I asked about any potential missed payments while we were back in California, he reassured me, saying, "Don't worry. You can always settle your account when you return." So, we didn't worry about it. We paid our bill upon returning to Tuscany by visiting the bank, and settling the amount due using our local account. I make it a point to visit our local government office when we return to Tuscany to confirm that trash and property taxes have been fully paid for that period. As for trash disposal costs in Italy, they vary by municipality and depend on factors such as property size and waste generation. On average, annual fees can range from €122 to €529, with some cities exceeding €300 per year. The efficiency of local waste management and the presence of recycling programs also impact the cost. Just like with electricity costs, it's a good idea to consult a trusted local realtor about specific trash disposal costs in a given region. Step 7: "Water shortages, public water spouts and wells on private property" I haven't experienced any water shortages in Italy, so I can't provide any insights on that matter. In fact, I don't know anyone in Italy who has faced a shortage. Regarding public water fountains, I have had great experiences, especially in Rome on a hot day. The icy cold water flowing from the fountain into my mouth is something I always look forward to. My advice: drink it! Regarding wells on private property, I have no knowledge or experience in this area. Consulting a trusted professional real estate agent is the best way to gather information on this topic. Step 8: Disconnecting services while away or not? When I leave my house in Italy for three months or more, should I disconnect my services? If "disconnect" means canceling your energy services while you're away, the simple answer is: NO! That can lead to a bureaucratic nightmare when it comes time to reconnect electricity, gas, water, and any other interrupted services. Instead, we have budgeted to keep all services connected and operational while we are away. This is the most practical option. Utility and water bills decrease when we're not in Italy, and the internet bill remains at about 30 euros per month, so the cost of keeping everything running is manageable. But if "disconnect" means safeguarding your home while you're gone, read on. Before we leave for an extended period, we close the shutters and cover the furniture and bed with plastic to keep the dust off. We turn off the main water valve to prevent leaks and unplug the water heaters. Then we unplug any lamps near the bedspread, switch off everything else, and leave the circuit breakers alone. The first time we left, we unplugged the refrigerator and left the door ajar, which seemed like the right move. When we came back, though, dust and dirt had settled inside and it needed a thorough cleaning. The second time, we just left the fridge running and plugged in — that worked much better for us. We have now returned to the house twice after leaving it vacant for months, and fortunately, we encountered no other issues. Step 9: Geothermal energy Geothermal energy uses natural heat from deep underground to provide steady warmth for homes and hot water, and on Monte Amiata (our area) this heat comes from the volcanic systems beneath the mountain itself. In towns like Santa Fiora and Piancastagnaio, that heat is distributed through a district network managed by Amiata Energia, replacing the need for natural gas or electric heating. When I asked how the cost of it actually works, I learned there are two options: a yearly contract for unlimited use, or a metered system where you pay only for what you consume. Either way, the energy comes from geothermal fields that have been operating here for decades. Residents told me a typical household might spend roughly €1,200 to €1,800 per year, depending on the size of the home and the plan chosen, which is generally cheaper and more predictable than natural gas or electric heating, where annual costs can easily climb into the €2,200–€3,200 range. What people seem to appreciate most is the stability—no gas hookups, no surprise winter spikes—and the quiet satisfaction of relying on a renewable resource that’s literally beneath their feet. Insights: If there's one theme running through all of this, it's that managing utilities in Italy doesn't have to be overwhelming, but it does require a willingness to ask questions and lean on people who know the system. We learned early on that our 3.3 kilowatt limit wasn't going to work, and it was our realtor who helped us fix that. We switched energy providers on his recommendation and saved money. We figured out — through trial and error — how to shut down the house when we leave and what not to do (leave the fridge door open, for example). And we discovered that our area runs on geothermal energy, which turned out to be one of the pleasant surprises of living on Monte Amiata. None of this came from a guidebook. It came from asking our realtor, talking to neighbors, and making a few mistakes along the way. That's how it works here — and honestly, that's part of what makes it worth it. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. 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PART 164 It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas and towns in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's explore the ancient Abbey in Abbadia San Salvatore in Tuscany Step 2: History and Experience We had visited the Abbey at Abbadia San Salvatore before, but only briefly. Without the historical context, we hadn't fully grasped what we were seeing. So when Sandro, an excellent realtor and good friend, invited us on a guided tour with a local historian, we eagerly accepted. The Abbey sits at the edge of the town's historical center. Our guide was already waiting when we arrived—young, knowledgeable, energetic. After a warm welcome and some small talk about California, we began the tour. What followed brought the stones alive. It started with a tree. Step 3: Origins In 743, King Ratchis of the Lombards reported having a vision of Christ above a white fir tree. He ordered a monastery built on the site to commemorate it. The Abbey was constructed around the tree itself, and the stone opening from which it emerged is still visible today. A painting in the right transept's side chapel depicts this founding moment. The location proved strategically important. It sat near the Via Francigena, the major pilgrimage route from Canterbury to Rome, and the steady flow of pilgrims and merchants led to settlements growing up around the Abbey. Step 4: Some history The Abbey is a significant historic monument with a rich and complex history. Adjacent to the church is a mysterious crypt featuring 32 unique columns of unknown origin (more information below). The Abbey of San Salvatore underwent renovations in 1035, with additional restorations occurring in the 1930s and 1970s. The interior of the Abbey follows a classic Latin cross layout with a single nave. In the two transepts of the cross, there are two chapels: the Chapel of the Madonna della Pieve on the left and the Chapel of the Holy Savior on the right. Notable works within the church include: A polychrome wooden crucifix from the late 12th century. A painting depicting the Legend of Duke Ratchis (1652-1653) by Francesco Nasini. A painting representing the Martyrdom of Saint Bartholomew (1694) by Francesco Nasini. Older than the church, the crypt likely dates back to the 7th century. It features thirty-two columns adorned with beautifully crafted capitals. These unique capitals showcase various designs, including animals, plants, and geometric patterns. For nearly a thousand years, the Abbey housed the Codex Amiatinus, also known as the Amiatina Bible, the oldest manuscript copy of the Bible in Latin. A museum preserves and displays liturgical furnishings from the Abbey and nearby churches in the cloister. One significant artifact is the reliquary bust of St. Mark the Pope, along with several reliquaries containing relics of other saints, which can be viewed up close. Step 5: Cool things. The crypt is the coolest feature of the Abbey. Each column is unique—human figures, natural motifs, and one carved with the mysterious "knot without beginning or end." Beyond the architecture, the space carries a palpable sense of sacredness. What struck me most was the round hole in the ceiling where the fir tree once grew. The monks built the entire monastery around it, preserving the legend in stone. The tree is long gone, but its absence feels almost as powerful as its presence must have been. Upstairs in the church, I found myself drawn to the 12th-century crucifix. Our guide pointed out something I might have missed: "Note that this is not a suffering Christ but a triumphant one. In fact, this is one of the very first depictions of Christ triumphant on the cross that we have." Once he said it, I couldn't unsee it—the peacefulness in Christ's expression, the calm instead of agony. Insights. We often drive to distant corners of Tuscany and beyond, chasing historical and cultural sites. But this visit reminded us that some of the richest experiences are right in our backyard. With a guide's help, we discovered the story behind the stones—and that's what gives a place like the Abbey its meaning. More next time. SECOND EDITION NOW ON SALE FOR $2.99! "She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome." https://a.co/d/4Bx0Eh3 . Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .