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- How to Live in Italy for Part of the Year
This is a bonus blog this week! It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I'll post some steps and what we've learned along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is now our life. We live in Tuscany in the fall, then return in the spring, and spend the rest of the year in California (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). As we explore different areas, we discover gems worth sharing—some are well-known tourist magnets, others are lesser-known but always worth the visit. Step 1: This week, let's explore how to live in Italy for part of the year (like us!). Step 2: Background When my partner and I first discussed living in Europe after retirement, we assumed our only option was to move there full time—establish residency and cut ties with the US. But obstacles got in the way. We had obligations in California, and my partner wasn't fully sold on the idea of a permanent life abroad. It took us a while to learn about the Schengen Zone ( https://www.marktedesco.com/post/the-schengen-shuffle ) and its guiding principle: one can remain in the EU (countries that are part of the zone) for 90 days out of every 180. Eventually it became clear that living in Italy part time—twice a year for two to three months—was the best fit for us. I don't claim to be an expert on relocation, but in this blog I'll share some of our experiences. Step 3: Budget The first step in our journey was defining our budget. After accounting for our mortgage, car insurance, and other expenses in California, how much could we actually afford to spend on housing and transportation in Italy? Working through those numbers kept us from wasting time on cities and areas where housing was beyond our reach—and it had an unexpected side benefit. It forced me to take a hard look at unnecessary spending back home. Too many Amazon orders, for one. For anyone considering a part-time life in Italy, getting clear on the budget early makes everything that follows more manageable. Step 4: Housing We found that renting in Italy can be much cheaper than in California, especially outside major cities. We started out in Puglia, where we rented a two-bedroom, two-bath apartment for 2,000 euros a year, plus utilities. In our current area of southern Tuscany, rents typically run 400–500 euros a month. We rented in Puglia for about 18 months before deciding to buy in Tuscany ( https://www.marktedesco.com/post/our-italian-adventure-housing-from-renting-to-buying ). Our budget put us in the 70,000–80,000 euro range, with a little left over for renovations. We didn't think we could find anything in that range in Tuscany until our friends in Puglia encouraged us to visit the Monte Amiata area, in the southern part of the region, where historical homes could still be found at affordable prices. We planned a trip and realized the area would be a great fit: near the cultural and natural sites Tuscany is famous for, and accessible to miles of hiking trails, ski runs, and mountain biking. Culture and nature together drew us there. On that visit, we found a house, made an offer, and it was accepted. We took a 15th-century home and upgraded it with modern amenities while preserving its character. We've since sold that house and bought another in the same area, which we are renovating now. I've written about that journey in earlier blogs. The lesson in all of this: once you've established a budget, it becomes much easier to decide which areas fit and which to rule out. Our local friends helped steer us toward areas they thought matched what we were looking for, and we ended up with a great realtor team who have since become friends. For anyone ready to begin, the process looks something like this: research on sites such as Casa.it , then reaching out to a local realtor to get a feel for their service and availability, and finally visiting the town in person. There's no other way to get a sense of a place than going there. Step 5: Transportation When we started out in Puglia, we quickly realized that a car was necessary to see the things we came to Italy for. Our local friends told us about a rental service, run by friends of friends, where one could rent used cars — insurance included — starting at 15 euros a day. We used their services the entire time we were in Puglia. The only downside was that the lower-end cars weren't reliable for long trips, so when we drove to the Amalfi coast, for example, we rented a different car. We haven't found a similar service in Tuscany. Our area isn't well served by trains — the closest major station is in Grosseto, about a 50-minute drive — so a car here isn't optional. And for much of Tuscany, that's the reality. Public transportation simply doesn't reach the places that make this region worth living in. I've written a few blogs about renting and leasing in Italy ( https://www.marktedesco.com/post/our-italian-adventure-updates-on-reducing-the-cost-of-renting-a-car-in-italy ), so I won't repeat all of that here. But no matter how one goes about it, having a car is a major expense — and the options are limited. Registering a car is tied to residency, so purchasing one while maintaining residency elsewhere isn't possible. That leaves leasing (which can be cheaper for stays of two months or more) or renting (daily or long term). We go back and forth between the Renault lease program and the long-term rental option from Sicily By Car. Both have drawbacks, but they're the best options we've found so far. Calculating transportation costs early is essential. It's one of the less glamorous parts of planning a life in Italy, but it shapes daily life more than most people expect. Step 6: Relationships Relationships are what make life flow in Italy. Whether we've been baffled by bureaucratic procedures, cultural differences, or access to services, our local friends and acquaintances have smoothed the way. How do I pay the property taxes? How does recycling work? What's the easiest way to get to Florence? Where can we find tile in our area? Every one of these questions has been answered by someone we know, not by a guidebook. But relationships here go beyond solving problems. We come from a culture of "getting things done," and sometimes we forget to pause and experience the people around us. Living in Italy is helping us slow down, enjoy the moment, make time for friendships, and reconsider what matters most. Taking the time to cultivate those connections has been one of the most important steps in building a life here. Step 7: Experience I'm a retired high school teacher, and my students taught me that experience is the best teacher. When they became glassy-eyed as I explained the glories of the Italian Renaissance, I knew something was wrong. The subject was fascinating to me — so why not to them? Because it was abstract. They had nothing to connect it to. So we organized a tour of Florence in the classroom, setting up seven or eight stations that students would visit in groups and complete a task. One station was Brunelleschi's dome, where students had to figure out how to create a dome with their bodies, using their hands to balance the student on the other side, and then write about the engineering principles at work. At another, they watched a two-minute video on Michelangelo's David and made a quick sketch in their notebooks. The next day, their boredom had turned to interest — because now they had experience to reflect on, not just ideas. Living in Italy has worked on us the same way. For example, our Italian friends tend to be more spontaneous than our American friends, often inviting us to a local festival or a pizza outing only hours beforehand. We learned to stop resisting and say yes. Each invitation became its own kind of lesson — not just about Italian culture, but about ourselves. The more we experienced life here, the more we began to question assumptions we'd carried from home. What we thought was the "right" way to do things turned out to be just one way. That openness has changed how we see other cultures, and it's changed how we see our own. Insights Living in Italy part time didn't happen all at once—it came together in steps, each one building on the last. It started with a practical question: could we afford it? Defining our budget gave us clarity and kept us from chasing places that were out of reach. That single step narrowed the field and made everything that followed more manageable. Housing taught us to be flexible. Renting first gave us time to learn the rhythms of a place without the weight of ownership. When we eventually bought, it was because the right opportunity appeared—not because we forced it. And when we sold, we discovered that a home can be a chapter rather than a final destination. Transportation is one of the less glamorous realities, but it shapes daily life more than people expect. In much of Tuscany, a car isn't optional—it's essential. Building that cost into the budget early saved us from surprises later. Of everything we've learned, relationships have mattered the most. Our local friends have guided us through bureaucracy, connected us with services, and invited us into a way of life we never could have accessed on our own. Investing in those friendships hasn't just made logistics easier—it has changed how we experience Italy. And finally, experience itself has been our greatest teacher. Every step—renting, buying, renovating, selling, starting over—taught us something we couldn't have learned any other way. The willingness to say yes, to be spontaneous, to trust the process, has made this life possible. For anyone considering a part-time life in Italy: start with your budget, rent before you buy, invest in relationships, and trust that each step will teach you what you need for the next one. More next time. Something new: for those who prefer video (Vlog) rather than this blog, here is a video version: https://youtu.be/I7lt1U5nULc My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! Onward: A Life on a Sailboat is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE
- Navigating Utility Services in Our Italian Home
PART 165: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then return again in the Spring, and spend the rest of the time in California (as I explained in a previous blog, we only live in Italy part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's explore dealing with utilities and other similar issues that foreigners in Italy might have. Step 2: I often receive suggestions from my blog readers, and I genuinely appreciate them. This week, I received a suggestion that I'd like to address (at least parts of it): "Could you write about all aspects of dealing with local utilities? Topics could include trash collection, tips for managing water shortages, the use of public water spigots, and the use of wells on private property. Additionally, please provide information about average electricity usage and whether it's advisable to disconnect services when away for three months." I am no expert on these issues, but will share some of our experience. Step 3: Utilities: Gas, electricity, and water The energy efficiency of each house varies, making it challenging to estimate energy costs for a specific property. In Italy, the standard household power capacity is typically 3.3 kilowatts (or 3,300 watts). This is often the default setting for residential electricity contracts and is generally sufficient for running common household appliances. When we lived in Puglia, 3.3 kilowatts met our needs. The energy systems in our house relied on both gas and electricity. While we couldn't run the washing machine and dishwasher simultaneously without tripping the circuit breaker, it was easy to stagger our use of energy-intensive appliances. Living within the 3.3 kilowatt limit was manageable. Upon moving to Tuscany, we purchased a house that relied solely on electricity, as there were no gas lines in the 16th-century building. We underestimated the impact this would have until we turned on the oven and used the hot water, causing a power outage. After resetting the breaker, we attempted to use the microwave and television, only to experience another shutdown of the circuit breaker. We were hesitant to even attempt using the washing machine. We contacted our realtor for assistance, and he arranged for an increase in our electricity capacity to 6.6 kilowatts. Since making that change, we haven't faced any electricity issues. Since we are not currently relying on gas in our home in Tuscany, I will leave it at that. Step 4: What about electricity averages and rates? The average cost of electricity in Italy for a small 70-square-meter apartment in 2025 is estimated to be between €70 and €120 per month. If you are on the government-regulated market, the cost of energy per kWh is approximately €0.16053/kWh. However, by switching to an energy company on the free market, you might find more affordable rates, with some offers starting as low as €0.107/kWh. It's essential to note that rates can vary based on several factors, including daily consumption and billing methods. Choosing a more advantageous supplier in the free market can often lead to significant savings. Our realtor introduced us to a more cost-effective and environmentally friendly energy alternative in the free market: "Italia Gas e Luce". This company provides energy services throughout Italy and relies predominantly on clean, wind energy. Since we made the switch, our electric bill has decreased. As of June 2025, their electricity tariff is: June Electricity Tariff: €0.1415/kWh "Italia Gas e Luce" is a 100% renewable energy company operating across Italy. They currently offer excellent promotions, allowing you to sign up for free in just five minutes with no activation fees. Additionally, for every person you refer, you can earn €30! You can sign up here: https://www.plank.global/plank/attivaonline/IGL/index.php?custarea=1&refcode=E473309&lang=italian In summary, you can lower your energy bills by switching from your regulated energy provider in Italy to a free market company like "Italia Gas e Luce". Step 5: Water Factors Affecting Water Bill Costs in Italy: Your location, specific water provider, and personal water usage habits all influence your final bill. According to Statista ( https://www.statista.com/statistics/867875/water-price-index-in-italy/ ), the average annual water bill for a household in Italy is approximately €487; however, ours is much lower than this figure. For accurate information about average water costs in a specific area, consulting a knowledgeable real estate agent is recommended. Our agent has guided us through all these issues. Is the Water Safe? Europe is known for having some of the cleanest drinking water globally, and Italy ranks high on this list. The Environmental Performance Index (EPI) places Italy second in the world for sanitation and drinking water, following only Singapore. In areas where water is not safe to drink, there will typically be a clear sign indicating this, often displaying phrases like "acqua non potabile" (non-potable water). Most tap water in Italy is sourced from springs and wells, similar to the sources used by ancient Romans. The sources of freshwater can vary significantly across different regions in Italy. For example, Rome obtains its drinking water from springs and wells, while Northern Italy benefits from the abundance of fresh water from the surrounding mountains. Italy adheres to the EU's Water Framework Directive and regularly monitors tap water treatment. The Italian National Institute of Health (ISS) is responsible for ensuring that all Italians have access to safe and clean drinking water. The ISS conducts regular checks for contaminants and evaluates the effectiveness of water treatment processes. Step 6: Trash collection In Italy, the cost of trash collection is covered by a local tax called TARI (Tassa sui Rifiuti). This municipal charge must be paid by all property owners and tenants for solid waste collection and disposal services. In a previous blog, I explained how recycling works in Italy; however, this time I want to focus on the TARI tax and its relationship to trash collection payments. In our municipality, TARI bills are sent exclusively through regular mail to be collected from our mailbox upon our return. A helpful official at our city hall (Comune) explained this to me. When I asked about any potential missed payments while we were back in California, he reassured me, saying, "Don't worry. You can always settle your account when you return." So, we didn't worry about it. We paid our bill upon returning to Tuscany by visiting the bank, and settling the amount due using our local account. I make it a point to visit our local government office when we return to Tuscany to confirm that trash and property taxes have been fully paid for that period. As for trash disposal costs in Italy, they vary by municipality and depend on factors such as property size and waste generation. On average, annual fees can range from €122 to €529, with some cities exceeding €300 per year. The efficiency of local waste management and the presence of recycling programs also impact the cost. Just like with electricity costs, it's a good idea to consult a trusted local realtor about specific trash disposal costs in a given region. Step 7: "Water shortages, public water spouts and wells on private property" I haven't experienced any water shortages in Italy, so I can't provide any insights on that matter. In fact, I don't know anyone in Italy who has faced a shortage. Regarding public water fountains, I have had great experiences, especially in Rome on a hot day. The icy cold water flowing from the fountain into my mouth is something I always look forward to. My advice: drink it! Regarding wells on private property, I have no knowledge or experience in this area. Consulting a trusted professional real estate agent is the best way to gather information on this topic. Step 8: Disconnecting services while away or not? When I leave my house in Italy for three months or more, should I disconnect my services? If "disconnect" means canceling your energy services while you're away, the simple answer is: NO! That can lead to a bureaucratic nightmare when it comes time to reconnect electricity, gas, water, and any other interrupted services. Instead, we have budgeted to keep all services connected and operational while we are away. This is the most practical option. Utility and water bills decrease when we're not in Italy, and the internet bill remains at about 30 euros per month, so the cost of keeping everything running is manageable. But if "disconnect" means safeguarding your home while you're gone, read on. Before we leave for an extended period, we close the shutters and cover the furniture and bed with plastic to keep the dust off. We turn off the main water valve to prevent leaks and unplug the water heaters. Then we unplug any lamps near the bedspread, switch off everything else, and leave the circuit breakers alone. The first time we left, we unplugged the refrigerator and left the door ajar, which seemed like the right move. When we came back, though, dust and dirt had settled inside and it needed a thorough cleaning. The second time, we just left the fridge running and plugged in — that worked much better for us. We have now returned to the house twice after leaving it vacant for months, and fortunately, we encountered no other issues. Step 9: Geothermal energy Geothermal energy uses natural heat from deep underground to provide steady warmth for homes and hot water, and on Monte Amiata (our area) this heat comes from the volcanic systems beneath the mountain itself. In towns like Santa Fiora and Piancastagnaio, that heat is distributed through a district network managed by Amiata Energia, replacing the need for natural gas or electric heating. When I asked how the cost of it actually works, I learned there are two options: a yearly contract for unlimited use, or a metered system where you pay only for what you consume. Either way, the energy comes from geothermal fields that have been operating here for decades. Residents told me a typical household might spend roughly €1,200 to €1,800 per year, depending on the size of the home and the plan chosen, which is generally cheaper and more predictable than natural gas or electric heating, where annual costs can easily climb into the €2,200–€3,200 range. What people seem to appreciate most is the stability—no gas hookups, no surprise winter spikes—and the quiet satisfaction of relying on a renewable resource that’s literally beneath their feet. Insights: If there's one theme running through all of this, it's that managing utilities in Italy doesn't have to be overwhelming, but it does require a willingness to ask questions and lean on people who know the system. We learned early on that our 3.3 kilowatt limit wasn't going to work, and it was our realtor who helped us fix that. We switched energy providers on his recommendation and saved money. We figured out — through trial and error — how to shut down the house when we leave and what not to do (leave the fridge door open, for example). And we discovered that our area runs on geothermal energy, which turned out to be one of the pleasant surprises of living on Monte Amiata. None of this came from a guidebook. It came from asking our realtor, talking to neighbors, and making a few mistakes along the way. That's how it works here — and honestly, that's part of what makes it worth it. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Exploring the History of the Abbey in Abbadia San Salvatore, Tuscany
PART 164 It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas and towns in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's explore the ancient Abbey in Abbadia San Salvatore in Tuscany Step 2: History and Experience We had visited the Abbey at Abbadia San Salvatore before, but only briefly. Without the historical context, we hadn't fully grasped what we were seeing. So when Sandro, an excellent realtor and good friend, invited us on a guided tour with a local historian, we eagerly accepted. The Abbey sits at the edge of the town's historical center. Our guide was already waiting when we arrived—young, knowledgeable, energetic. After a warm welcome and some small talk about California, we began the tour. What followed brought the stones alive. It started with a tree. Step 3: Origins In 743, King Ratchis of the Lombards reported having a vision of Christ above a white fir tree. He ordered a monastery built on the site to commemorate it. The Abbey was constructed around the tree itself, and the stone opening from which it emerged is still visible today. A painting in the right transept's side chapel depicts this founding moment. The location proved strategically important. It sat near the Via Francigena, the major pilgrimage route from Canterbury to Rome, and the steady flow of pilgrims and merchants led to settlements growing up around the Abbey. Step 4: Some history The Abbey is a significant historic monument with a rich and complex history. Adjacent to the church is a mysterious crypt featuring 32 unique columns of unknown origin (more information below). The Abbey of San Salvatore underwent renovations in 1035, with additional restorations occurring in the 1930s and 1970s. The interior of the Abbey follows a classic Latin cross layout with a single nave. In the two transepts of the cross, there are two chapels: the Chapel of the Madonna della Pieve on the left and the Chapel of the Holy Savior on the right. Notable works within the church include: A polychrome wooden crucifix from the late 12th century. A painting depicting the Legend of Duke Ratchis (1652-1653) by Francesco Nasini. A painting representing the Martyrdom of Saint Bartholomew (1694) by Francesco Nasini. Older than the church, the crypt likely dates back to the 7th century. It features thirty-two columns adorned with beautifully crafted capitals. These unique capitals showcase various designs, including animals, plants, and geometric patterns. For nearly a thousand years, the Abbey housed the Codex Amiatinus, also known as the Amiatina Bible, the oldest manuscript copy of the Bible in Latin. A museum preserves and displays liturgical furnishings from the Abbey and nearby churches in the cloister. One significant artifact is the reliquary bust of St. Mark the Pope, along with several reliquaries containing relics of other saints, which can be viewed up close. Step 5: Cool things. The crypt is the coolest feature of the Abbey. Each column is unique—human figures, natural motifs, and one carved with the mysterious "knot without beginning or end." Beyond the architecture, the space carries a palpable sense of sacredness. What struck me most was the round hole in the ceiling where the fir tree once grew. The monks built the entire monastery around it, preserving the legend in stone. The tree is long gone, but its absence feels almost as powerful as its presence must have been. Upstairs in the church, I found myself drawn to the 12th-century crucifix. Our guide pointed out something I might have missed: "Note that this is not a suffering Christ but a triumphant one. In fact, this is one of the very first depictions of Christ triumphant on the cross that we have." Once he said it, I couldn't unsee it—the peacefulness in Christ's expression, the calm instead of agony. Insights. We often drive to distant corners of Tuscany and beyond, chasing historical and cultural sites. But this visit reminded us that some of the richest experiences are right in our backyard. With a guide's help, we discovered the story behind the stones—and that's what gives a place like the Abbey its meaning. More next time. SECOND EDITION NOW ON SALE FOR $2.99! "She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome." https://a.co/d/4Bx0Eh3 . Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Should I Buy This Farm in Tuscany?
Wine, Olives, and 12 Acres Near Montalcino This week we're doing something different. A friend of mine, Sandro Marucci ( read my interview with him here ) from Eco Casa Immobiliare in Abbadia San Salvatore, is representing a property that caught my attention—interesting enough that I wanted to write about it. It's a working farm in Tuscany, in Montenero d'Orcia, a quiet village perched between the Val d'Orcia and the Maremma—off the tourist trail but close to everything that makes this region famous. The listing price is €750,000. The Property Here's what you get: two renovated apartments totaling 238 square meters, with five bedrooms and two bathrooms between them. One apartment has three bedrooms, the other has two bedrooms plus a study. Both have porches with views of the surrounding countryside. Below the living quarters are production rooms for wine and oil, set up for both making and selling. The property sits on 12 acres of land including woods and—here's the interesting part—500 olive trees. Energy class G, which is common for older rural properties in this area. Many buyers in this market budget for efficiency upgrades as part of their plans. The Location Montenero d'Orcia is a frazione of Castel del Piano, in the province of Grosseto. Population around 250 people. It sits on a rocky spur of volcanic origin at the intersection of three distinct landscapes: the Val d'Orcia to the north, the Maremma to the west, and Monte Amiata to the east. The village is about 14 kilometers from Castel del Piano and 44 kilometers from Grosseto. More importantly for wine lovers, it's only about 14 kilometers—a 25-minute drive—from Montalcino. The River Ombrone is all that separates this property from some of the world's most famous Brunello vineyards, including Castello Banfi. Transportation: Nearest airports: Perugia (85 km), Florence (100 km), Rome Fiumicino (145 km) No train station. The closest useful one is Grosseto, about an hour away Buses exist but are limited You need a car. No way around it. The Wine and Oil Angle This is what makes the property special. Montenero d'Orcia sits within the Montecucco DOC, a wine region that's been quietly gaining respect. The DOC was only established in 1998, with a DOCG for Sangiovese added in 2011. It's sandwiched between Brunello di Montalcino and Morellino di Scansano—good company. The wines here share a lot with Montalcino: volcanic and sandstone soils, Mediterranean climate moderated by Monte Amiata's cooling influence, and Sangiovese as the primary grape. Critics note Montecucco Sangiovese tends to be darker and slightly more tannic than its famous neighbor. About 68% of production in the zone is organic. The olive oil situation is equally compelling. This area produces Olivastra Seggianese DOP, an indigenous cultivar that grows only at the foot of Monte Amiata. Five hundred olive trees is a serious grove—enough to produce oil commercially, not just for personal use. The Museum of Vine and Wine is actually located in Montenero d'Orcia itself, which tells you something about the village's identity. The Village Montenero d'Orcia has Etruscan origins, but it became strategically important in the medieval period. The Aldobrandeschi family built fortifications here, and later it became a battleground between Siena and Florence. You can still see the 10th-century walls, a 13th-century Sienese fortress (the Cassero Senese, rebuilt in the 15th century), and the 12th-century Pieve di Santa Lucia, which contains a wooden crucifix attributed to Ambrogio Lorenzetti. It's intimate. A cluster of stone houses on a rock, looking out over three valleys. The kind of place where neighbors become friends, where community still means something, and where the nearest shops are a short drive away in Castel del Piano. Who This Property Is For The listing puts it well: "ideal for those dreaming of a residence in Tuscany, for agricultural entrepreneurs, lovers of oil and wine, or for those who wish to change their life and combine residence with a hospitality or production activity linked to the territory." This property makes sense if you want to: Run an agriturismo. Two apartments means you can live in one and rent the other. The production facilities give guests something to experience beyond just sleeping in the countryside. Location near Montalcino helps with marketing. Produce wine and oil commercially. The infrastructure exists. The terroir is legitimate. Montecucco is an up-and-coming denomination with room to grow. Five hundred olive trees can produce real quantity. Live in authentic rural Tuscany. The genuine article, with the peace and tranquility that comes with it. This property is best suited for those who value peace and privacy over walkable amenities, and who are comfortable with agricultural life or willing to arrange management for the olive grove. The Price For €750,000, you're getting two livable apartments, production facilities, and 12 acres of productive agricultural land near one of Italy's most prestigious wine regions. Properties with serious olive groves in this area don't come up often. For comparison, you'd pay significantly more for something similar closer to Montalcino proper, and you'd be buying into a saturated market. Here you're in Montecucco—less famous, but that also means less competition and lower land prices. The Verdict This property makes sense for: Serious agricultural entrepreneurs. Someone with capital and interest in wine/oil production. A buyer who wants to run an agriturismo with authentic local products. Anyone who appreciates the charm of a close-knit community. Consider your lifestyle: This property rewards those who enjoy solitude, have flexibility with agricultural commitments, and appreciate the rhythms of rural life. Best suited for: Those seeking authentic rural Tuscany rather than a more urban or tourist-oriented experience. The listing talks about "slowing down" and "letting yourself be guided by the authentic rhythms of the land." That's exactly what you'd find here. Montenero d'Orcia offers a genuine change of pace for those ready to embrace it. More next time. For more information on this property: https://www.ecocasaimmobiliare.it/web/immobile_dettaglio.asp?cod_annuncio=2532676&language=eng&force=1 Video tour: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8xPRFKH4G4k
- Understanding the Costs Involved in Renovating a House in Italy
PART 163: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then return again in the Spring, and spend the rest of the time in California (as I explained in a previous blog, we only live in Italy part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's examine the costs associated with renovating a house in Italy. Note that the focus of this blog is primarily on the cost of materials rather than contractor or labor costs. Step 2: Occasionally, blog readers send me suggestions for future posts, and this is one of them. I appreciate these suggestions. Here is the reader's question and context: "I am open to renovations, especially since I come from a family of builders. However, I would like to gain an understanding of the actual costs involved. For example, I'm interested in the cost per square meter to replace tiles, install new roofing, or add a small bathroom in my apartment. Additionally, I'd like to know how plumbers charge—do they bill by the hour or by the job? I'm also curious about the costs of replacing windows and shutters. Even rough estimates would be helpful." Step 3: I do not know the precise numbers for most of these questions, but I can share some of our experiences that may clarify some of the answers. Step 4: Cost of materials The cost of materials for a home renovation varies based on the specific choices made. Recently, we completed a home renovation in Tuscany, gaining valuable insights throughout the process. One of the most significant lessons we learned was that we wasted a lot of time searching for materials. This was mainly because we were unsure where to find tiles, faucets, bathroom vanities, kitchen cabinets, and other essentials. We visited numerous small businesses, big-box stores, and unique shops, and consulted with many people about where to source these materials. I want to share some of the lessons we learned during this journey. Step 5: Start from the basics and work your way up If I'm starting a house renovation with a fixed budget and looking for materials, I would begin at Tecnomat, similar to Home Depot in the US. The advantage of pricing materials at a store like Tecnomat is that I can establish a baseline for the costs of basic materials. The store offers a wide range of products, including tiles, showers, and staircases. We are about to begin our second renovation and have already completed the following step: I created a spreadsheet listing all the materials I need, such as toilets, sinks, mirrors, faucets, paint, and more. Then, I visited Tecnomat to input the prices of these materials into the spreadsheet. This process provides a clear understanding of the baseline costs. However, this method may not be effective if I'm renovating a space that requires new walls, plumbing, electrical work, or structural changes. This may also not apply if a contractor is purchasing the materials and including them in his charges. More on that later. Link to Tecnomat: https://www.tecnomat.it/it/prodotti/?srsltid=AfmBOooG6nUyMvm-FNL59F73mjg4MfPUHmRxT6O5FKXgu2IJJgFIflqq Step 6: Working my way up Once I have my baseline materials from Tecnomat, I will be able to assess how much of my budget remains. This allows me to start substituting the basic materials selected at Tecnomat for more specialized items that may be more expensive. Step 7: Purchasing a Kitchen Buying a kitchen in Italy can be a straightforward process, as kitchens are typically sold as complete units that include appliances. Many larger kitchen distributors also offer installation services and plumbing connections to ensure everything is properly set up. Similar to other countries, the cost of a kitchen varies based on the type and manufacturer. To estimate the cost of a kitchen, one can start by exploring options at big-box stores in Italy. Mondo Convenienza offers a variety of affordable choices.: https://www.mondoconv.it/cucine.html?srsltid=AfmBOooS1_uHo7YpR590BYXmnpX9VLp4Gkx-NQ3P75W2tv0BDnMaFBuO Next, consider mid-range or higher-end options like Scavolini, which provides more stylish designs: https://www.scavolini.com/it/cucine IKEA is another popular option; however, our experience with their kitchen planner in Florence was disappointing. The planner did not listen to our preferences and presented a design that did not meet our needs. https://www.ikea.com/it/it/customer-service/services/planning-consultation/#db2b95d0-e7e0-11ec-a0d5-e1fc3d38e3c9 Additionally, Italy boasts numerous upscale kitchen showrooms that feature modern and sleek designs, typically located in major Italian cities. All of these retailers offer kitchen planning services and will provide an estimate once you've chosen your cabinets and countertops. Step 8: Contractor Costs The cost analysis for renovations can be quite complex, especially when it comes to larger projects such as roof replacements, adding a bathroom, or major renovations involving walls, drywall, plumbing, and other elements. The costs for these projects can vary significantly based on location and the specific type of work being performed. In our experience, the plumbing work we had done was paid by the job rather than by the hour, which is a different practice from that in the US. The costs in Italy were generally lower for similar work compared to the US. We undertook several renovation projects, including adding a bathroom, demolishing our old kitchen to install a new one, replacing a bathtub with a shower, and other related work. One of the key factors that contributed to the smooth progress of our renovations was having an honest, knowledgeable, and professional realtor. He has lived in our area his entire life and genuinely cares about his work and the relationships he builds. He referred us to two trusted contractors and an architect, with whom we initially met over Zoom and then in person to discuss, finalize, and agree upon a budget and timeline for the work. I can't emphasize this enough: in Italy, everything relies on relationships. This principle is essential. Surprisingly, the cost of adding a bathroom, swapping our windows for double-pane models, installing a new kitchen, and painting the entire interior of the house turned out to be less than what it would have cost in the US. Sometimes my partner would express disbelief, saying, "How can it cost that little? Are you sure?" However, it's essential to note that we reside in the Monte Amiata region of Tuscany, which is situated outside the major tourist areas. As a result, costs for housing, labor, and services, etc, tend to be lower than in more tourist-heavy locations. Step 9: Where does that leave me? The reader might be wondering, "You're not providing any facts or numbers. What does that mean for me?" That's a great question. It means that both the reader and future home renovators have a starting point to begin their journey. While I can't predict labor costs or material prices for various regions in Italy—or even within our own area—I can share our experiences which can help illuminate ones first steps. Here's a summary of the steps one could follow: 1. Price out materials at large home improvement stores. 2. Visit specialty stores to replace some basic items with higher-end options, like special tiles. 3. Seek referrals from trusted locals for contractors, architects, and laborers. 4. Interview the referrals, either in person or via Zoom, using Google Translate if needed. Direct contact is essential. Step 10: Being Present I have known a few people who delegated their house renovations to a local contractor, returned to the US, and found that the renovation was moving slowly or not progressing at all. We decided to be present during our renovation. In fact, we lived in the house while it was happening, which I wouldn't want to do again! However, we found that being present was essential. It kept the work moving, allowed us to resolve issues quickly, and ensured that the flow of materials continued without interruption. For example, during the renovation of our main bathroom, we suddenly realized that the tile chosen by the contractor for the shower would not match the existing wall tile. Since tile installation was scheduled to begin the following afternoon, we woke up early, drove two hours to Tecnomat, purchased the matching tile, and returned just in time for the contractor to install it. This is how renovations go—unexpected issues arise that need to be addressed. If I am not present, things take longer, and problems are not resolved promptly. Being present during the renovation helps move it forward. Insights: I am no expert on home renovation in Italy, but hope that our experiences can benefit others and that they will join us on this adventure. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Outdoor Sports Activities in Southern Tuscany
PART 158 It might be interesting to share how we managed to live in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We spend the fall in Tuscany, then return in the spring, and spend the rest of the time in California (as I explained in a previous blog, we only live in Italy for part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's explore sports and Monte Amiata. Step 2: Our home We purchased a home in the Monte Amiata region and are discovering various sports activities in our area. Since we love an active lifestyle, here are some of the sports activities we have found so far. Step 3: Walking and riding Besides daily gym workouts, walking, hiking, and biking have become my most consistent forms of exercise. In California, I ride my bike most evenings; in Tuscany, I take an hour-long walk before or after dinner. Both clear my head, get my heart rate up, and never feel like a chore. Even in our own town, the views and small details along the way keep each outing interesting. I almost always lose weight when I’m in Italy, and all that walking is surely part of the reason. Step 4: Skiing and snowboarding Monte Amiata offers 10 kilometers of alpine ski slopes and features 8 lifts. Additionally, trails are available for both cross-country skiing and snowshoeing, offering excursions that can be enjoyed during the day or at night. The ski resorts at Monte Amiata typically operate from late December to mid-March. We haven't had the chance to go skiing or snowshoeing in our area yet, but it is on our bucket list. We both prefer cross-country skiing. Step 5: Hiking and Nature Trails During the summer, the mountain offers numerous hiking and nature trails that lead to panoramic viewpoints, lush forests, and unique volcanic formations. There are 19 signposted routes throughout the woods, covering a total of about 210 kilometers. These trails can be explored on foot, horseback, or by mountain bike. Recently, the trails have been renovated, offering options for all levels of fitness, from easy to challenging. We haven't yet attempted the most extended and most demanding route: the Anello del Monte Amiata (The Ring of Mount Amiata). This trail is over 27 kilometers long and takes approximately 12 hours to complete. However, there are many shorter trails and walks through the beech tree forests. Longer walks in the woods provide an excellent opportunity to connect with nature, especially in the Monte Labbro Nature Reserve, the Amiata Wildlife Park, and the WWF Bosco Rocconi Oasis. We enjoy taking the ski lift to the top of Amiata and then hiking back down, which is a very easy hike. In the heart of the Monte Amiata park, a nature trail extends north-northeast from the Podere dei Nobili. This path is rich in vegetation and is crossed by the Onazio stream. It features wooden guides, fords, and signposts indicating the various plant species found along the way. Step 6: Cycling and Mountain biking For cycling enthusiasts, Monte Amiata offers a wide range of experiences, from challenging climbs to relaxed rides through lush countryside. You can pedal beneath the canopy of beech trees or follow roads that wind through sun-drenched valleys. The Monte Amiata Bike Park is especially popular with mountain bikers, offering trails for all skill levels, along with chairlift and shuttle access to the upper slopes. One of the most striking mountain bike trails runs directly beneath a chairlift near Hotel Le Macinaie. It’s common to see riders heading up the lift with their bikes, then racing back down the trail. While it looks a bit too demanding for me, it’s hard not to admire how much fun it seems to be. For those who prefer road cycling, the mountain is equally rewarding. Scenic routes such as the Strada della Castagna and the Strada del Vino di Montecucco wind through areas rich in natural beauty and history, passing chestnut forests, vineyards, and small villages scattered across the slopes. Step 7: Camping Whenever we drive through Monte Amiata, we come across campgrounds where locals and visitors spend their days or weekends. While camping might not traditionally be classified as a "sport," it certainly encourages an active lifestyle, so I am including it here. There are numerous local campgrounds available online where you can set up a tent, park a trailer, or rent a cottage. Step 8: Hot Springs Is sitting in a hot spring a sport? Let's say yes because it's possible to swim. The area around Monte Amiata is famous for its natural hot springs, including Bagni San Filippo, where visitors can enjoy a relaxing soak in thermal waters. But where does this steam and hot water come from? Monte Amiata has not erupted in approximately 300,000 years, making it a dormant volcano. However, volcanic activity still bubbles away 3 to 7 miles below the surface. This underground process provides southern Tuscany with some of its most well-known hot springs, such as Saturnia, Bagni San Filippo, and Bagnore. At Bagno Vignoni, visitors can admire a 16th-century collecting basin filled with water containing a mix of sulfur compounds, bicarbonates, and sulfates. It takes approximately ten years for this water to percolate underground and travel over forty kilometers from Monte Amiata before it reaches the surface. Whether for sport, health, or historical reasons, the hot spring areas in Monte Amiata are definitely worth a visit. Step 9: Gyms Gyms are practically everywhere in Italy. Even though we live in a fairly small town, there are two gyms in our area, with another one soon to open. Working out regularly is a great way to consistently focus on fitness, participate in sports, set goals, and stay in shape. Exercising is a sport in itself, as it emphasizes the development of one's physical abilities. One of the added benefits of regularly going to the gym in our area of Tuscany is that we have met and developed relationships with many interesting people, both locals and expats, who we would not have met otherwise. Insights: We are only beginning to explore life in the Monte Amiata area. Since we aim to maintain an active lifestyle, exploring the sporting activities available in Amiata is one of our first steps. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- City or Village? Choosing Small-Town Life in Italy
Part 161: This week, let's explore some of the advantages of living in a small town in Italy. It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I'll post some steps and what we're learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is now our life. We live in Tuscany in the fall, return again in the spring, and spend the rest of the year in California (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: Discovering Italy As we explore different areas, we continue to find gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, while others are small, quiet surprises that reveal themselves slowly—but all of them are amazing. Step 2: Big City Life I lived in Rome for eight years and loved every minute of it. Coming from Sacramento, the city felt like an entire universe—alive with history, art, and possibility. I still return often and feel a deep affection for its chaos and beauty. When my partner and I chose Italy, we debated whether to live in a big city or a smaller town. Since my partner preferred something quieter, I agreed to give small-town living a try—a compromise that took some adjustment, but has since become a gift. Step 3: Small-Town Living in Puglia We wanted to build our life in Italy around friendships, so we chose Galatone in Puglia—home to several friends who had already made the move. We rented a recently renovated house from a local friend and began navigating daily life, one surprise at a time. Spontaneity: In the small town in Puglia where our friends lived, life ran on spontaneity. An invitation to pizza or a festival might come just hours before it started. I'm not naturally spontaneous, but we learned to say yes—and that openness gave us some of our most unforgettable experiences. A base for exploration: We'd imagined our home as a base for exploring Italy and beyond. A car was essential—we grew comfortable navigating narrow streets and roundabouts. We came to know southern Puglia well, driving its coast and countryside, and flew to Budapest for a taste of somewhere farther. But tucked into Italy's heel, the rest of Europe was a long way by road. The beach: In the warmer months, life in Puglia revolves around the beach—our friends went nearly every day. The coastline is stunning, but after a while we grew restless. It all felt too familiar, too much like southern California. We'd come to Italy for something different. Step 4: Small-Town Living in Tuscany When we moved north to Tuscany, small-town life took on new shades. Mountains: Monte Amiata rises above the quaint villages of southern Tuscany—an extinct volcano cloaked in one of Europe's largest beech forests. In summer, hiking trails wind through chestnut and beech woods to the summit, where the views stretch across the Val d'Orcia and all the way to the Maremma. In winter, the mountain becomes Tuscany's unlikely ski destination, with downhill and cross-country slopes threaded through the trees. It's modest compared to the Alps, but it's ours—and it's fifteen minutes away. We love to hike there whenever we can. Santa Fiora: Like in Puglia, we're settling in a small town—Santa Fiora, in southern Tuscany. It's a quiet medieval village perched on the slopes of Monte Amiata, with a history that stretches back centuries; Dante mentions it in the Divine Comedy. The central piazza sits in the shadow of the old Sforza castle, and at the edge of town, the Peschiera—a Renaissance garden built around the springs of the Fiora River—is one of the loveliest spots in all of Tuscany. It's a quiet and lovely place, but its position opens up much to explore beyond its borders. Our days here have a rhythm: coffee at our local hangout (after the gym!), a stroll through the historical center, and in the afternoons, a walk down to the Peschiera. A base for exploration: France is only five hours by car; the Dolomites and northern lakes an easy drive. Closer to home, weekend trips to Pienza or Siena remind us that Tuscany itself is an endless museum. Step 5: Advantages of Small-Town Living For us, the main draw of small-town living is feeling connected to other people—and making friends here has been far easier than it ever was in Rome. Just as in Puglia, we found that community here isn't unique to one town—it runs through all of Tuscany. From our local priest to our neighbors to our workout buddies at the gym, friendliness and openness run through everything. Shop owners remember your name; contractors become friends. Even the dreaded bureaucracy that many expats lament has gone smoothly for us. Local friends and tradespeople all know each other, and those connections helped our renovation approvals glide through. When we renovated our kitchen, the store owner and our contractor already knew each other—trust is simply built into the way things work. I always tell people thinking of moving to Italy: everything here runs on relationships. Here, community isn't an abstract idea—it's the person at the post office who helps you fill out a form, or the realtor who calls your contractor directly when something breaks. It's the faces you see every day at your coffee hangout, acquaintances who slowly become friends. Your neighbors take an interest in your life, and the lady at the checkout counter tells you about her adventures in New York. These relationships make daily life easier, but more than that, they make it richer—and here, we've found they come naturally. Step 6: Limits of Small-Town Living Of course, small-town life has its limits. A car isn't optional—it's your passport to everything beyond the piazza. A hospital, mall, or train station will probably mean a drive, and for those accustomed to everything being nearby, that takes adjustment. Cultural life requires effort too. In Rome, I loved stepping outside my door and stumbling onto a concert in a grand church, or a world-class exhibition near Piazza Venezia. In Florence, the Uffizi is a walk away. In a small town, these things mean a drive, and that was hard for me at first. Many small towns also face a demographic challenge: younger people often leave for larger cities in search of work, leaving behind an older population. Some towns feel quiet during the week, a few almost deserted. And the quiet itself can take getting used to. After Rome's noise and energy, a Tuscan or Pugliese evening at first felt almost too still. Local festivals bring the streets to life, especially in warmer weather, but between them, the calm is real. Insights After years in Rome, I've come to value the slower pace, the familiar faces, the way things get done through trust rather than pressure. And the big city is never far. Occasionally I want to immerse myself in Roman life again—the culture, the street life, the excitement—and a train ride later, I'm there. But I'm always content to return to our town, where I breathe deeper in the air of peace and beauty. More next time. My new novel, "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat," is now available for $2.99 — a tale that carries readers from the Amalfi Coast to the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond . https://www.amazon.com/stores/author/B00A504PO2?ccs_id=1c4c55aa-ab34-4f92-a017-a5299f59f0c5
- Surprising Moments on Our Hike in Tuscany
PART 160: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then return again in the Spring, and spend the rest of the time in California (as I explained in a previous blog, we only live in Italy part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, I will share our adventure as we hiked to the Vitaleta Chapel in the Val d'Orcia in Tuscany. Step 2: Iconic One of the most iconic places in Tuscany is the Vitaleta Chapel, perched atop the rolling hills of the region. I had seen it on postcards, in paintings, and in photographs, but experiencing it in person felt like stepping into another world. During our first visit to Tuscany several years ago, we stumbled upon the chapel by chance. We had left the main street and were exploring small dirt and gravel roads without any particular agenda, eager to discover what lay ahead. Then, in the distance, we spotted it. "Very cool! Let's go see it!" my partner exclaimed. We turned around and made our way toward the picturesque sight of cypress trees surrounding the old stone chapel. On the day we visited, there were no other tourists around; the chapel was closed, and the adjacent building's restaurant was not yet open. We parked the car, took a short walk, and stood on the hill next to the chapel. And then we listened. Looking around, we found ourselves surrounded by golden rolling wheat fields swaying gently in the breeze. It felt like a sacred moment, a beauty so overwhelming that we dared not disturb it with words. "This is so beautiful it's almost ridiculous," I finally said, breaking the silence. "It's like we've stepped into another universe," my partner added. I had seen photos of Tuscany before and often wondered what the hype was about. But now, standing in that place, I understood. Step 3: An unexpected encounter Yesterday, we decided to return to the Vitaleta Chapel, but instead of just parking nearby, I wanted to go for a hike. As soon as we spotted the chapel in the distance, we pulled over near a few cars parked by what seemed to be a trailhead. The hike looked to be about 45 minutes long. There was a weathered sign indicating an agriturismo nearby, although we didn't pay much attention to it. We started down the cypress-lined gravel road, encountered a few tourists taking photos, and took some pictures of our own. We continued on, going down and then up toward the Vitaleta Chapel in the distance. At one point, we lost the path and found ourselves on the grounds of the agriturismo we had seen earlier. (For those unfamiliar, an agriturismo is an independently owned farm that the owners have chosen to use, at least partially, for accommodation purposes.) We stood in front of a beautiful rustic brick and stone house with stunning views across the hills, with the Vitaleta Chapel visible in the distance. "Wouldn't it be amazing to stay here, watching the sun rise and set over these hills and seeing the stars appear above the chapel?" I blurted out. Before my partner could respond, we turned to see an older woman coming down the stairs, looking down at us. "Buon Giorno!" she greeted us warmly. "Give me a minute, and I will be right down!" she said. We introduced ourselves and mentioned where we were headed. She kindly showed us where the path continued around the agriturismo and then onward toward the chapel. Before we left, she shared her story with us. https://www.agriturismopoderino.it/ Step 4: The family and the Agriturismo Poderino There was a profound connection between us and the owner of Poderino as we inquired about her history, family, and business. At one point, she was in tears as she shared the tragic stories of losing both her husband and one of her children. It might be best for me to convey her thoughts in her own words: "We have been running this farm for over 40 years, and my husband and I started the agriturismo together. After he passed away, my son took on many of the responsibilities, but then he unexpectedly passed away as well. This is a beautiful location, and we love it here, but now it's just me. My daughters have gone off to college and started families of their own. In this area, I have been unable to find anyone to hire to help me, not even on a part-time basis. My greatest fear is that this agriturismo will end up abandoned. We produce oil and other farm products, but there really isn't enough money in agriculture to sustain us, so we rely on agriturismo. It is truly a beautiful place, and I hope that you will return." Our 15 minutes together were filled with emotion, and we continue to carry her hopes and dreams with us. This is the link to this incredible agriturismo: https://www.agriturismopoderino.it/ Step 5: The hike onward We left the agriturismo and hiked toward the chapel, traversing fields, crossing a small creek, and ascending toward our destination. The hike was a bit more strenuous than I had anticipated, and my knee was sore the next day, but it was definitely worth it. The Vitaleta Chapel area has undergone changes since our last visit: the chapel is now often open to visitors and is frequently used for weddings. The previously closed beautiful buildings now house a modern café run by a group of young people, serving sandwiches. On the upper floor, an exclusive gourmet restaurant with just six tables is located, open by reservation only. The area has become increasingly well-known and is often filled with visitors. When we arrived, it seemed that a wedding had just taken place, as well-dressed guests were lingering and taking photos. I stepped into the chapel, which had a plain and somewhat disappointing interior. Afterward, we bought a €5 soda at the café and sat facing the rolling hills of Val d'Orcia. It truly is a fantastic place. Step 6: Our return We embarked on the rocky path leading back to our car, taking care to pace ourselves as the ups and downs of the hike left me feeling winded. Before long, we arrived at our car and paused to gaze back at the agriturismo, surrounded by the cypress trees near the Vitaleta Chapel. "That was an amazing and unique experience," my partner remarked. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Our Italian Renovation: Tips and Tools
PART 166: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. Step 1: Getting Started This week, I want to share what we learned during our renovation journey in Italy and a few online resources that helped along the way. I hope they help you also! A blog reader recently asked for recommendations on resources for renovating a home in Italy. What follows is a mix of what worked for us and what we wish we’d known sooner. This isn’t an exhaustive list, but rather a collection of the most practical and time-saving lessons from our own experience. If you have others, please share them in the comments! Step 2: Wise.com Many expats we’ve met swear by Wise.com for transferring funds to Italy, but what we didn’t expect was how helpful their research-based articles would be. I first came across Wise while trying to understand the financial side of our renovation project, and it turned out to be a great resource. Wise is one of the most reliable platforms for moving money to Europe, but beyond its banking features, it also offers valuable guides for anyone planning a move or already living abroad. One particularly helpful article from 2024 breaks down typical renovation costs in Italy. Though written for a UK audience, it’s broadly applicable and provides useful ballpark figures for flooring, roofing, and interior work. It also covers hiring contractors, understanding taxes and fees, and estimating the costs of a new roof, kitchen, or bathroom. Link: wise.com/gb/blog/renovating-property-italy Step 3: Protected Structures Before we began any work, we checked whether our property was classified as a protected structure ( immobile vincolato ). It turned out it was—which meant we had to obtain special permits and approvals before doing anything. Our architect took care of everything—from paperwork and permit requests to coordinating inspections—and, to our surprise, secured all the necessary approvals within a week. The experience reminded us that in Italy, as in many places, strong relationships can make the process flow more smoothly and efficiently. If you’re planning a similar project, check early whether your home falls under historical protection laws. You may need special permits even for small changes like painting shutters or replacing windows. Step 4: Labor As in any country, labor costs in Italy vary depending on region, demand, and project scope. We learned to always get referrals and multiple estimates before hiring. Our realtor introduced us to a trusted contractor, and after several Zoom meetings, he visited the property, provided detailed quotes, and finished everything within budget. Our contractor and architect already had a close working relationship, and because of this, the work went smoothly. Having local professionals who were well connected to the resources in our community really helped the whole process. Depending on your renovation, you might work with: Architect (architetto): Required for major renovations that change structure or layout. They design the project, manage permits, and oversee work to ensure compliance with building codes. Surveyor (geometra): A blend of engineer and building supervisor. They handle smaller renovations, technical drawings, and local approvals. In small towns, a good geometra often knows everyone at city hall—a big help when you need signatures fast. Contractor (muratore): The person or team doing the physical work. A reliable contractor can make or break a renovation. Ours also connected us to local suppliers we would never have found on our own. Some contractors handle everything—from electrical to plumbing and construction—streamlining the process. Electrician (elettricista): The electrician installs and updates electrical systems, ensuring they meet Italy’s strict safety standards. After completing the work, they issue a Dichiarazione di Conformità , a certification that the system complies with national codes. In many renovations, they also connect heating or solar systems. Plumber (idraulico): The plumber installs and maintains all water, heating, and sometimes gas systems in the home—from bathrooms and kitchens to radiators and boilers. They also issue a Dichiarazione di Conformità certifying that their work meets national safety standards. In some cases, the contractor is also a qualified plumber, which can simplify coordination and keep the project moving smoothly. Hiring professionals from your local area helps enormously—they know the regional rules, suppliers, and how to navigate local bureaucracy. Step 5: Materials and Tecnomat When we first began our renovation, we spent weeks driving from one small specialty shop to another, looking for tiles, faucets, and fixtures. Only later did we discover Tecnomat —Italy’s equivalent of Home Depot or Lowe’s. “Wow, we could have saved so much time if we had come here first,” my partner said as we explored the aisles. Tecnomat carries everything from toilets and showers to tiles, lumber, and lighting. They also have specialty items you can custom order. Even if you’re not in Italy while planning your renovation, browsing the Tecnomat website can be a great starting point. Checking prices for items like toilets, showers, and sinks helps you estimate costs and set a realistic materials budget. Now that we are beginning our second renovation project in Italy, starting at Tecnomat is giving us an even clearer sense of pricing and helping us refine our budget with confidence.. Link: tecnomat.it Step 6: Specialty Items Once the basics were decided, we wanted to find some distinctive pieces—unique tiles for the kitchen backsplash, bathroom vanities with good storage, and a particular kitchen faucet. Many specialty shops in our area are small, family-run businesses without websites, yet they offer treasures you won’t find elsewhere—antique furniture, hand-painted tiles, and artwork perfect for old stone walls. Visiting them became part of the fun, as each shop revealed something unexpected. When all else failed, we turned to Amazon Italy, where we found a few light fixtures we couldn’t locate in any store. Combining these online discoveries with local finds gave our renovation a blend of practicality and personality. Step 7: Historical Center Challenges Our home, built in the 16th century, is located in the historical center of our town—a setting full of charm but also challenges. Because cars can’t reach our narrow street, we had to hire workers to carry materials by hand—from cabinets to bathroom fixtures—which added time and cost we hadn’t anticipated. Living and renovating in a historical center also means adapting to its rhythms—limited access, narrow passageways, and the need to work around centuries-old walls. Delivery access is another factor to consider; even small logistical issues can impact labor time and expenses. Step 8: Learning from Others Talking to locals and others who have renovated before us was invaluable. People who have already gone through the process often share insights you won’t find online. Even a simple renovation can become complicated in Italy’s maze of regional rules and traditions. One helpful guide we found is here: propertyguides.com/italy/news/7-steps-to-a-stress-free-renovation Renovating a house in Italy has been a journey of discovery for us at every step. While this post doesn’t list every online resource, I hope these insights help anyone planning their own Italian renovation—whether from abroad or right here in Italy. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Driving Through Tuscany Without a Goal
PART 155: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then return again in the Spring, and spend the rest of the time in California (as I explained in a previous blog, we only live in Italy for part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's explore some of the discoveries we've made in Tuscany by following our instincts. Step 2: Planning and Spontaneity Although I like to think of myself as a free spirit and a spontaneous person, I have to admit that I am more of a planner. At the beginning of each day, I prefer to have a clear plan for what I want to accomplish. My partner, on the other hand, is the more spontaneous type. When he suggests an impromptu activity, he often says, "I know you're going to say no at first, but please just think about this…" When it comes to exploring Tuscany, we sometimes plan our activities, but other times we embrace spontaneity. Let's focus on the spontaneous side of our adventures. Step 3: Dirt roads "I've never seen a dirt road that I wouldn't turn onto," my partner often says. Another one of his expressions is, "I would never pass up a road that says 'private road'; it means there's something good to see." Sometimes I've clutched the seat in fear as we ventured down those roads, but I have to admit we have encountered some incredible sights. Step 4: The first time You can't truly experience Tuscany without a car; that's just a fact. When we visited the region for the first time a few years ago, we rented a car in Rome and drove north. I had done some research and had a list of the main towns and sights to see. However, on the second day, my partner, true to form, suggested, "Let's just drive and see where we end up." I reluctantly agreed. We started on the main roads for a while, but then he spotted a dirt and gravel road off to the right. He swerved onto it, and we bumped along the rural path through the Tuscan hills. After a few minutes, we encountered no cars or people (it was summer), and we continued on until we reached the top of a hill. We parked the car on the side of the road, got out, and walked across the fields to the summit. Turning in a circle, we took in the breathtaking view: swaying golden fields, cypress trees, and distant farmhouses. "Listen!" I said. The breeze flowing through the fields created a calming, almost magical sound that I can't quite describe. It felt as if we were inside a grand church or cathedral; we looked around but didn't want to speak. After a few moments, my partner remarked, "Now I see why so many people want to come to Tuscany! Photographs don't do it justice." He was right. We were isolated on that road, enveloped by the beauty of Tuscany, experiencing what makes this place unique in the world. Step 5: Discovering towns Sometimes these dirt roads lead us to towns, while other times we stay on the paved road, see a cool town on a hilltop, and drive over to investigate. Some of the towns we have discovered are: Step 6: Montemerano We had never been to the thermal spas at Saturnia, so we decided to drive there after our morning coffee. It was a spur-of-the-moment decision, and we didn't know where the famous thermal spas were or if the town was worth visiting. We found a parking spot in the historical part of Saturnia and started to follow a path down towards the spas, but it looked like a long way. "Is this the way to the thermal waters?" we asked an Italian couple walking on the same path. "Yes, you can walk down this path; it is about a 45-minute walk, and then you have to come back up again. It's better if you drive; there is a big parking lot there." That seemed reasonable. I then asked, "Is the town of Saturnia worth exploring?" The kind woman shrugged her shoulders. "There is nothing very special about the town of Saturnia; if you want to see an incredibly charming place, go to Montemerano. It is very close by, and you won't regret it." We thanked them, jumped in our car, and drove down to the thermal spas. When we arrived at the parking lot, it was packed. Cars circled like vultures, waiting for someone to pull out. While my partner hunted for a space, I got out to pay for a few hours of parking. At the machine, a small group ahead of me was struggling to figure it out. When they finally moved on, I stepped up and tried my luck—but even after feeding in my coins three times, the screen flashed the same message: payment rejected. The rate was 2.50 euros an hour, and I had enough coins to cover it, but the machine refused every one. Frustrated, I walked back to the car. "Do you want to just go to the town that couple mentioned instead?" I asked. I hopped in, and we were on our way to Montemerano. After we parked and walked through the stone entrance, it felt like we had stepped onto a movie set. We were surrounded by breathtaking views, charming stone buildings, and cobblestone streets. It reminded us of Montichiello but without the crowds of tourists. We visited the Church of San Giorgio, a 14th-century parish church located in the village. Restored in 1980, it features remarkable artworks, including Sano di Pietro's "Madonna on a Throne with Child and Saints" and the intriguing "Madonna della Gattaiola," attributed to the anonymous Maestro di Montemerano. The village dates back to the Middle Ages. It was originally owned by the Aldobrandeschi family in the 13th century, then passed to the Baschi family from Orvieto in the 14th century, before being conquered by the Republic of Siena in the 15th century. We had an amazing time and stopped to eat at an outdoor restaurant, where we enjoyed fantastic tagliatelle with ragù. Step 7: Montefollonico We decided to visit Montepulciano one day since we had only been there once and wanted to explore the town more thoroughly. However, we didn't realize that a festival was taking place that day, and we soon found ourselves stuck in a massive traffic jam, surrounded by people searching for parking. Although it was only 10 in the morning, we realized we would never find parking and made it our goal to escape the overcrowded town. We ignored Google Maps, which kept trying to direct us back into traffic, and headed toward San Quirico. Once we got out of the traffic in Montepulciano, we discovered an incredible country road with sweeping vistas of farms, vineyards, and rolling hills. At one point, we spotted an interesting historical church on a hill, surrounded by a charming stone village. "Let's go see what it is," I suggested. We drove along the road, turned right, and parked our car. By chance, we had found Montefollonico. Monetfollonico is a peaceful village that remains largely undiscovered by tourists. Its ancient walls encompass charming examples of beautiful architecture, including the Romanesque Church of San Leonardo and the 12th-century Church of San Bartolomeo, which is possibly the oldest in the region. The Palace of Justice and the entire village are also worth a visit. As you wander through this town, you'll be inspired by its medieval character, stunning views, and the absence of large tourist crowds. We promised ourselves that we would return. Step 8: Sant'Angelo in Colle (Hamlet of Montalcino) We had passed through this town multiple times on our way to Montalcino, and each time, we agreed we needed to learn more about it. So, two days ago, we decided to jump in the car and drive over. Sant'Angelo in Colle is a stunning medieval village located in the Val d'Orcia Natural Park, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. At an elevation of 450 meters above sea level, it offers breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape and Mount Amiata. The village began as a border castle for the Municipality of Siena in 1265. It has retained its original layout, featuring circular streets. At the center of the village is the Romanesque Church of San Michele Arcangelo, which boasts impressive entrances and several old frescoes from the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. The large tower at the entrance once served as a military fortress. We parked at the bottom of the hill and walked along Via del Sole to Piazza Castello, taking in the sights along the way. We enjoyed a delightful lunch at Trattoria Il Pozzo, where the service was excellent, the food was fantastic, and the views of the piazza were incredible. Step 9: Castello di Poggio alle Mura (Banfi Castle) As we drove home from Sant'Angelo in Colle, we spotted a stunning castle rising from a hill amidst the vineyards of the Banfi wine company. Intrigued, we turned around and headed toward the fairytale-like building. Located in the beautiful Montalcino region, just 16 kilometers from the center of Montalcino, Castle Poggio alle Mura, or Castello Banfi, was built in 1438 on a hill overlooking the Orcia and Ombrone rivers. Although there are no records confirming its origins, it is believed to have originally been the site of a Lombard watchtower, with its first fortified structure dating back before the year 1000. Today, the castle houses a luxury hotel, restaurants, and a wine shop. It is renowned for its impressive wine cellars and high-quality wines that reflect its medieval charm and rich winemaking tradition. We chose not to participate in a wine tasting or have lunch, instead opting to explore the grounds and soak in the stunning views, promising to return. Although there is a glass museum on-site, we found that no tickets were being sold that day. Unexpectedly, while other places were crowded that Sunday, the castle grounds were mostly empty. Visiting this castle is definitely worth it. Insights: Exploring Tuscany aimlessly opens one up to new experiences and discoveries. We will continue to take gravel roads and, occasionally, the "private" streets! More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Unlocking Eco-Sustainable Living: A Dive into Italy's Green Real Estate Market
PART 162: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is now our reality! We live in Tuscany in the fall, then return again in the spring, and spend the rest of the time in California. As I explained in a previous blog, we only live in Italy part of the year, but it's become an integral part of our lifestyle. As we explore different areas in Italy, we discover gems worth sharing—some are well-known tourist magnets, others are lesser-known but always extraordinary. Interview: The Future of Sustainable Real Estate in Italy This week, we explore why our Tuscan realtor has pivoted to focus on environmentally sustainable real estate markets in Italy. Step 1: Introduction We conducted an exclusive interview with Sandro Marcucci, founder of Sustainable Real Estate Agencies and President of the Sustainable Real Estate Agents Network. Sandro helped us navigate buying and selling our home in Tuscany—he's an exceptional English-speaking agent with extensive experience helping international buyers find their perfect Italian property. Step 2: Understanding Sustainable Real Estate Question: Sandro, what exactly is the sustainable real estate market? Can you explain the concept and provide some examples? Sandro's Response: Thank you for that question, Mark. First, let me clarify what "sustainable" means in real estate. Traditional real estate focuses primarily on location, price, and aesthetics. Sustainable real estate goes far deeper—it considers a property's long-term impact on three interconnected areas: Environmental Sustainability : How does this property affect the planet? This includes energy efficiency, renewable energy systems, sustainable building materials, water conservation, and minimizing the carbon footprint. Economic Sustainability : Is this investment financially sound long-term? We look at energy cost savings, property value retention, maintenance costs, and how sustainability features affect resale value. Social Sustainability : How does this property benefit the community? This covers supporting local economies, preserving cultural heritage, enhancing neighborhood livability, and ensuring housing accessibility. Our Sustainable Real Estate Agencies network focuses on revolutionizing the real estate profession itself, not just selling "green" buildings. We're not simply marketing energy-efficient homes or Class A properties—our vision is transforming how real estate agents view their role in sustainable development. In our program, agents receive specialized training beyond standard certification requirements. This enhanced education covers these three sustainability areas in depth, and upon completion, our association awards a certificate recognizing them as "Sustainable Real Estate Agents"—a new professional designation. We integrate ESG (Environmental, Social, and Governance) principles into daily practice, applying these concepts to all property types through our innovative "Real Estate Sustainability Report." This holistic approach is groundbreaking—nothing comparable exists in Italy or internationally. Step 3: Market Transformation Goals Question: What changes in the real estate market do you hope to achieve through this program? Sandro's Response: Our project has two primary objectives: First, to elevate the reputation and professionalism of Real Estate Agents as a career category. In Italy, our profession often faces negative stereotypes and lacks the professional recognition it deserves—something I'll explain more about later. Second, to drive practical change—encouraging property owners to make energy-efficient improvements while educating both clients and professionals about the full scope of sustainability: environmental protection, economic benefits, and social responsibility. These goals reflect a larger shift happening in business today. We're moving away from the old model of "profit at any cost" toward what I call sustainable profitability—where companies succeed financially while also benefiting society and the environment. In economic terms, we're transitioning from Homo Economicus (the idea that people are purely self-interested) to Humanistic Capitalism (where business considers human welfare and environmental impact alongside profits). Our program aims to be part of this vital transformation. Step 4: Broader Impact and Vision Question: Beyond agent training, what other objectives does your program have? How will this impact buyers, sellers, and properties? Sandro's Response: Excellent question! Our vision extends far beyond training. We've established a non-profit association that creates and participates in sustainability-focused events, collaborating with organizations that strengthen local communities and social cohesion through awareness campaigns. For real estate transactions, we help both sellers and buyers understand that a sale isn't just a transaction—it's a step toward improving quality of life. Our ultimate goal is reducing environmental impact while fostering community connections and promoting well-being in the neighborhoods where these properties are located. Step 5: Personal Motivation for Change Question: What prompted you to change your approach to the industry? Sandro's Response: Two key factors drove this transformation. First, the real estate profession lacks sufficient respect in certain Italian circles. Media portrayals often depict us negatively or mockingly, and unprofessional behavior from some colleagues damages our reputation and undermines our work's value. Second, I've always prioritized environmental respect, energy conservation, ethics, and social-economic equity in both my personal and professional life. These factors combined inspired me to develop this revolutionary project for the Italian real estate sector—creating a model we can eventually export internationally. Step 6: Italy's Sustainable Real Estate Landscape Question: Can you describe the current sustainable real estate market in Italy? Sandro's Response: Italy has a unique challenge: we have a vast stock of beautiful, historic buildings that consume significant amounts of energy to heat and cool. The Scale of the Problem: Currently, 60-70% of Italian homes fall into the lowest energy efficiency ratings—think of buildings that require high heating bills in winter and can be difficult to keep comfortable in summer. Most of our housing stock consists of either historic buildings or structures built before 1976, when Italy first enacted energy-saving building codes. Why Improvements Are Difficult: Many of these properties are challenging to retrofit for energy efficiency. Historic buildings face technical obstacles—you can't simply add modern insulation to a 15th-century palazzo. There are also legal restrictions: buildings protected by cultural heritage laws (what we call "fine arts" constraints) have strict limits on what modifications are allowed, even for energy improvements. The Positive Changes: Despite these challenges, there's real momentum building. The Italian government has introduced substantial tax incentives in recent years to encourage energy renovations—these programs are still active and provide significant financial support for improvements. For example, the "Superbonus" program has offered up to 110% tax credits for qualifying energy efficiency improvements, meaning homeowners can actually receive more back in tax benefits than they spend on renovations. While the percentage has been adjusted over time, substantial incentives remain available for improvements like solar panels, heat pumps, and building insulation. For new construction, the standards have dramatically improved: since 2021, all new buildings must be constructed as "nearly zero-energy buildings" (NZEB), meaning they produce almost as much energy as they consume. Step 7: International Appeal Question: What attracts foreign buyers to Italy's sustainable real estate market? Sandro's Response: Foreign buyers come to Italy primarily for the beauty, culture, and lifestyle—energy efficiency isn't usually their first concern. However, our sustainable approach appeals to a growing segment of international buyers who are becoming more environmentally conscious and financially savvy. What These Buyers Value: Many foreign clients, especially from Northern Europe and North America, are already familiar with energy-efficient building practices in their home countries. When they see our sustainability certifications and energy reports, they immediately understand the long-term benefits: lower utility costs, better comfort year-round, and higher property values. These buyers also appreciate working with professionals who demonstrate expertise beyond just showing properties. They want agents who can explain technical aspects, understand renovation potential, and guide them through Italy's complex building regulations—particularly when historic properties are involved. The Broader Appeal: There's also a values-driven component. Many international buyers are motivated by the desire to make responsible choices that benefit both the local community and the environment. They see sustainable real estate investment as a way to contribute positively to the regions they're choosing to call home. Our comprehensive approach gives them confidence that they're making an informed decision, not just an emotional one based on a beautiful view or charming village. Conclusion: The Future of Italian Real Estate Sandro's vision represents more than just a business model—it's a blueprint for transforming how we think about property ownership in one of the world's most historically rich real estate markets. By weaving together environmental responsibility, economic wisdom, and social consciousness, his Sustainable Real Estate Agents Network addresses the unique challenges of Italy's ancient building stock while meeting the evolving expectations of modern buyers. For international buyers considering Italian property, this approach offers something invaluable: the ability to fall in love with Italy's timeless beauty while making choices that align with contemporary values. Rather than forcing buyers to choose between charm and efficiency, or between personal dreams and environmental responsibility, Sandro's model shows how these elements can work together. As Italy continues to balance preservation of its magnificent architectural heritage with the demands of sustainable living, pioneers like Sandro are proving that innovation doesn't mean abandoning tradition—it means honoring it more thoughtfully. For anyone considering property investment in Italy, whether as a primary residence or vacation home, the sustainable approach offers not just a house, but a conscientious way to become part of Italy's ongoing story. The future of Italian real estate isn't just about finding the perfect property—it's about finding the perfect way to be responsible custodians of this remarkable landscape for generations to come. Further Information Learn More About Sandro's Work: Sustainable Real Estate Agents Network Sustainable Real Estate Agent Program EcoCasa Real Estate Sandro Marcucci on LinkedIn Ready to explore sustainable real estate opportunities in Italy? These resources provide a deeper look into the innovative approach that's transforming how we think about Italian property investment.
- Exploring Our Second Home Renovation Journey in Italy
PART 157: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then return again in the Spring, and spend the rest of the time in California (as I explained in a previous blog, we only live in Italy part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's dive into our second house renovation project in Italy, which we are about to start. Step 2: Background If you follow this blog, you are already up to date on our first house renovation in Italy. Our life in Italy has evolved naturally over time. Initially, we rented a place in Puglia for a few weeks, where our friends lived. This turned into another rental for the summer, and eventually, we stayed there for a year. After much soul-searching, we concluded that Tuscany would be a better fit for us. While we loved the beach life in Puglia, we found it too reminiscent of Southern California, our home. We ultimately decided to move closer to the historical and cultural sites that interest us, as well as to other European countries that are easily accessible by car. We purchased an incredible 16th-century house in Tuscany, where we lived until recently. We have now sold that property and are preparing to embark on our second renovation project in the area. Step 3: First reno project When we decided to renovate our historical home in Arcidosso, we wanted to preserve its charm while updating the amenities to suit the needs of two Californians. We had no intention of flipping the house; we planned to enjoy it ourselves. Having renovated two houses in California, we had some understanding of the process. However, we were unfamiliar with sourcing materials in our area and contracting trustworthy workers for the project. Fortunately, we had two excellent realtors—who are now our friends—who connected us with a contractor, architect, and other skilled craftsmen. One aspect of the renovation that went smoothly was the quality of the workmanship. Our contractor took charge and was determined to complete the project before we returned to California. Our architect was knowledgeable about local codes, enabling him to submit the necessary paperwork for the renovation and obtain approval within a week. Meanwhile, our realtor assisted us with additional connections, like internet services, green energy companies, etc. But our main challenge was sourcing materials. In any renovation, the number of decisions can be overwhelming: Which tiles should we choose? What appliances do we need? Where should we place the outlets? How do we address various issues? What shower base and door should we select? What type of water heater is best? I could go on and on. Although our contractor had his own sources for materials, their selections didn't always align with our vision. For instance, his choices for the two showers were perfect, but the options for bathroom vanities did not provide the storage space we required. Additionally, we had a specific type of tile in mind that would harmonize with the existing wall tile in one of the bathrooms, which we couldn't find among his suggestions. Early in the renovation, we realized we needed to visit stores almost daily to explore materials and bring our preferences to our contractor's attention. This was where we lost a significant amount of time. We scoured small specialty shops for tiles, faucets, electric outlet covers, lighting fixtures, shelving, mirrors, and countless other items. After searching local shops, we drove to Florence and visited Technomat, a store similar to Home Depot, where we discovered renovation materials that weren't available in our area. For lighting fixtures, however, we hit a dead end. We envisioned a rustic Tuscan industrial style, but only found super modern or overly traditional options. Eventually, we turned to Amazon in Italy and found the exact look we were looking for. By the time the renovation was halfway completed, we had figured out where to find materials: specialty stores for some items, Technomat for others, and online retailers for specific needs. We hadn't planned to replace the kitchen when we bought the house, but once we started using it, we realized it didn't meet our needs. We asked around and traveled many kilometers to visit kitchen stores until we found one that fit our design and budget. Ordering materials at the last minute often led to delays. For instance, it took a month for our kitchen to arrive and a week for our shower doors to come. When we ran out of materials, work had to stop until the deliveries arrived, which wasn't an efficient way to move the project forward. We learned a great deal during this renovation, and as we begin our second reno project, we can approach it more efficiently. Step 4: The question When my partner asked me, after the renovation was completed, if I would consider selling the house, buying a bigger renovation project, and starting all over again, I said, "No way!" However, after a couple of weeks, I began to reflect on the idea. We could put our knowledge to good use, tackle a larger renovation project, and end up with a bigger house. At a certain point, I said, "Well…maybe." That "maybe" eventually turned into a "yes," and now we have sold that house and are starting our second renovation project in Italy! Step 5: What is it? We are about to buy (as of this writing) and renovate a property located near our current home. This property is part of a six-unit building and is conveniently owned by one of our contractors, who will be working with us on its renovation and subsequent purchase. What does the property look like? It resembles a large, empty cement box with windows and no charm. The space has been completely gutted and is awaiting someone to breathe new life into it. With our first property, the challenge was to maintain its charm while updating the amenities. In contrast, the challenge with this new property will be to infuse it with charm while installing the necessary amenities. Currently, it lacks a kitchen, bathrooms, and showers; it simply consists of rooms and windows. Can we take on this project? Will it be too much for us? I believe we can handle it. Step 6: Our method I tend to be quite methodical. I developed this approach as a teacher; it was essential for managing grading, correcting papers, meeting with students, and handling numerous assignments. I established a system to ensure I covered all my bases. As we embark on this new renovation project, even before making a purchase, we took measurements and created a floor plan. We used this plan to visit our local kitchen cabinetry store with our contractor to design the kitchen. We also digitally arranged the furniture on the floor plan to determine the best locations for outlets. Additionally, we figured out a solution for the washer and dryer. We even revisited some of our favorite stores to select tiles for the kitchen and bathroom, as well as lighting fixtures and faucets. Now, instead of scrambling, we have each room planned out along with all its materials before we have even closed on the house. We know where to source every piece of material we will need. With the materials chosen and lined up, the contractor in place, and the permits secured from the local government office, we are ready to proceed. This renovation should go much more smoothly than our first one. And if it doesn't, you will be the first to know. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .











