PART 157: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then return again in the Spring, and spend the rest of the time in California (as I explained in a previous blog, we only live in Italy part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing.  This week, let's dive into our second house renovation project in Italy, which we are about to start. Step 2: Background If you follow this blog, you are already up to date on our first house renovation in Italy. Our life in Italy has evolved naturally over time. Initially, we rented a place in Puglia for a few weeks, where our friends lived. This turned into another rental for the summer, and eventually, we stayed there for a year. After much soul-searching, we concluded that Tuscany would be a better fit for us. While we loved the beach life in Puglia, we found it too reminiscent of Southern California, our home. We ultimately decided to move closer to the historical and cultural sites that interest us, as well as to other European countries that are easily accessible by car. We purchased an incredible 16th-century house in Tuscany, where we lived until recently. We have now sold that property and are preparing to embark on our second renovation project in the area. Step 3: First reno project When we decided to renovate our historical home in Arcidosso, we wanted to preserve its charm while updating the amenities to suit the needs of two Californians. We had no intention of flipping the house; we planned to enjoy it ourselves. Having renovated two houses in California, we had some understanding of the process. However, we were unfamiliar with sourcing materials in our area and contracting trustworthy workers for the project. Fortunately, we had two excellent realtors—who are now our friends—who connected us with a contractor, architect, and other skilled craftsmen. One aspect of the renovation that went smoothly was the quality of the workmanship. Our contractor took charge and was determined to complete the project before we returned to California. Our architect was knowledgeable about local codes, enabling him to submit the necessary paperwork for the renovation and obtain approval within a week. Meanwhile, our realtor assisted us with additional connections, like internet services, green energy companies, etc. But our main challenge was sourcing materials. In any renovation, the number of decisions can be overwhelming: Which tiles should we choose? What appliances do we need? Where should we place the outlets? How do we address various issues? What shower base and door should we select? What type of water heater is best? I could go on and on. Although our contractor had his own sources for materials, their selections didn't always align with our vision. For instance, his choices for the two showers were perfect, but the options for bathroom vanities did not provide the storage space we required. Additionally, we had a specific type of tile in mind that would harmonize with the existing wall tile in one of the bathrooms, which we couldn't find among his suggestions. Early in the renovation, we realized we needed to visit stores almost daily to explore materials and bring our preferences to our contractor's attention. This was where we lost a significant amount of time. We scoured small specialty shops for tiles, faucets, electric outlet covers, lighting fixtures, shelving, mirrors, and countless other items. After searching local shops, we drove to Florence and visited Technomat, a store similar to Home Depot, where we discovered renovation materials that weren't available in our area. For lighting fixtures, however, we hit a dead end. We envisioned a rustic Tuscan industrial style, but only found super modern or overly traditional options. Eventually, we turned to Amazon in Italy and found the exact look we were looking for. By the time the renovation was halfway completed, we had figured out where to find materials: specialty stores for some items, Technomat for others, and online retailers for specific needs. We hadn't planned to replace the kitchen when we bought the house, but once we started using it, we realized it didn't meet our needs. We asked around and traveled many kilometers to visit kitchen stores until we found one that fit our design and budget. Ordering materials at the last minute often led to delays. For instance, it took a month for our kitchen to arrive and a week for our shower doors to come. When we ran out of materials, work had to stop until the deliveries arrived, which wasn't an efficient way to move the project forward. We learned a great deal during this renovation, and as we begin our second reno project, we can approach it more efficiently. Step 4: The question When my partner asked me, after the renovation was completed, if I would consider selling the house, buying a bigger renovation project, and starting all over again, I said, "No way!" However, after a couple of weeks, I began to reflect on the idea. We could put our knowledge to good use, tackle a larger renovation project, and end up with a bigger house. At a certain point, I said, "Well…maybe." That "maybe" eventually turned into a "yes," and now we have sold that house and are starting our second renovation project in Italy! Step 5: What is it? We are about to buy (as of this writing) and renovate a property located near our current home. This property is part of a six-unit building and is conveniently owned by one of our contractors, who will be working with us on its renovation and subsequent purchase. What does the property look like? It resembles a large, empty cement box with windows and no charm. The space has been completely gutted and is awaiting someone to breathe new life into it. With our first property, the challenge was to maintain its charm while updating the amenities. In contrast, the challenge with this new property will be to infuse it with charm while installing the necessary amenities. Currently, it lacks a kitchen, bathrooms, and showers; it simply consists of rooms and windows. Can we take on this project? Will it be too much for us? I believe we can handle it. Step 6: Our method I tend to be quite methodical. I developed this approach as a teacher; it was essential for managing grading, correcting papers, meeting with students, and handling numerous assignments. I established a system to ensure I covered all my bases. As we embark on this new renovation project, even before making a purchase, we took measurements and created a floor plan. We used this plan to visit our local kitchen cabinetry store with our contractor to design the kitchen. We also digitally arranged the furniture on the floor plan to determine the best locations for outlets. Additionally, we figured out a solution for the washer and dryer. We even revisited some of our favorite stores to select tiles for the kitchen and bathroom, as well as lighting fixtures and faucets. Now, instead of scrambling, we have each room planned out along with all its materials before we have even closed on the house. We know where to source every piece of material we will need. With the materials chosen and lined up, the contractor in place, and the permits secured from the local government office, we are ready to proceed. This renovation should go much more smoothly than our first one. And if it doesn't, you will be the first to know. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 154: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then return again in the Spring, and spend the rest of the time in California (as I explained in a previous blog, we only live in Italy for part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing.  This week, let's explore why we decided to start living in Italy before we had figured out all the ins and outs. Step 2: Longing As our lives became stable in Los Angeles, with our careers progressing, our friendships solidified, and our annual vacations planned, we began to wonder: is this enough? The feeling that our established daily life in California might not be sufficient started with a subtle sense of discomfort. Don't get me wrong; we love our life here, our friends, and our healthy routines. However, there was an underlying sense that there must be something more. Eventually, this seed of discomfort grew into a deep longing for an undefined "something more." One afternoon, everything crystallized when my partner asked me, "What do you think about living in Europe after you retire?" I was taken aback; I had never considered it before. But as I reflected on his question, I realized it was the answer to that longing I had been feeling. Step 3: Lost friends I once had a friend whose friendship I treasured. We were certain our bond would last forever—that we'd grow old together, sharing our lives through whatever came our way. Then he died suddenly. His death shook me deeply, and it took time to process the loss. But losing him taught me how precious and fleeting life is. My friend's passing forced me to reconsider everything. If life was this short, I didn't want to wait for the conventional retirement timeline. Instead of working the typical 31 years in the pension system, I decided to retire after 25. This meant I needed to accelerate my career—taking on extra responsibilities and pursuing promotions to boost my salary and, consequently, my pension benefits. Even if early retirement meant a smaller monthly income, I was willing to make that trade-off. My partner and I realized we'd been guilty of the same postponement. We agreed to stop putting off our dreams and start pursuing them immediately. While I was still working, we tested the waters with a two-week winter trip to Italy. The experience was transformative enough that we returned the following summer, renting a place in Puglia for several months to see if we could handle a longer commitment to Italian life. After I retired, we took the leap: signing a year-long lease on an Italian house. Though we only lived there four to six months annually—splitting our time between two extended stays—it felt like the beginning of something bigger. As I've written about elsewhere, we eventually purchased our own home in Tuscany. Step 4: Local friendships We had no idea how anything worked in Italy before we began our long-term stay there. Whether it was getting medical care, signing a lease, or paying bills, we were entirely in the dark. However, we had already established friendships in Puglia, where we started our journey. As we spend more time in Italy, it becomes increasingly clear that many processes rely on relationships. Whether it's navigating bureaucracy, finding a doctor, or discovering an excellent plant nursery, our local friends consistently help us along the way. Although we are often confused by the different ways things are done in Italy compared to California, our local friendships have made the transition smooth and stress-free. We have learned that building relationships is essential for establishing a life in Italy. These connections often begin with simple conversations—whether it's with the checkout lady at the supermarket, fellow expats at the gym, or our local butcher and baker. Taking the time to connect with others is its own reward; building local relationships can also help as we learn to navigate life in another country. Step 5: Learning Our mindset gradually shifted from "We need to have everything figured out before taking the next step" to "Learning along the way is part of the adventure." When we started in Puglia, we had no idea we'd eventually end up in Tuscany. Puglia made sense as our first step—we already had friends there, and the lifestyle felt familiar after Southern California. But after a couple of years, we realized it wouldn't be our permanent base in Italy. Those years weren't wasted time; they taught us what we actually wanted from our Italian experience. Eventually, Tuscany became the obvious choice because it put us closer to the historical sites, cultural centers, and international destinations we wanted to explore. The relationships we've built in Tuscany have proven just as valuable as those in Puglia. Recently, I needed medical care in Italy and had no clue how to navigate the system. Again, figuring it out as we went worked in our favor. I reached out to a friend in Tuscany who's both a doctor and a regular at our local gym. He helped me get the care and medication I needed. This experience reinforced what we've learned: when you're living in Italy—whether full-time or part-time—learning as you go isn't just inevitable, it's part of what makes it an adventure. Step 6: Not all or nothing I've written a few blogs on the "all or nothing" mentality because it was a significant obstacle for us. When we first considered moving to Italy, we spent months trying to figure out how to take the leap. We needed to understand how to obtain residency, buy a home, fulfill our obligations in California, get a visa, and navigate EU healthcare, among other things. We continually hit a brick wall because we couldn't find a way to fulfill our obligations in California while living in Italy full-time as residents. Then it dawned on us: it doesn't have to be all or nothing. We could adhere to the rules of the Schengen Zone (see my blog on this) and spend part of the year in Italy. The solution we came up with was to spend two to three months in Italy twice per year while maintaining our residency in California. This approach simplified the process, allowing us to fulfill our commitments in California. Once we realized that it didn't have to be all or nothing and that we could create a solution for living in Italy that suited us, the next step was easy: purchasing the plane ticket and making it happen! Step 7: Open to adventure Entering a situation without fully understanding all its complexities has tested our need to feel in control, especially when there are many factors beyond our reach. However, learning to let go and trusting that things will unfold as they are meant to has been beneficial. Cultivating local friendships, asking for help when needed, and being willing to adapt our desire to live in Europe to our particular circumstances has allowed us to view this experience as a learning adventure. Rather than trying to control it, we aim to experience it and remain open to whatever comes our way. Ultimately, we hope to be changed by this journey. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 152: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing.  This week, let's explore how I can change my dream of moving to Italy into a reality. Step 2: What I learned from my students I learned a lot from my students during my 25 years of teaching social studies in Los Angeles. I favored project-based learning over test-driven methods, and my students often enjoyed the sense of accomplishment that came from completing a poster about World War II, a booklet on the history of Rome, or a class presentation on the French Revolution. However, at the beginning of my teaching career, I faced some challenges. Many students would say, "Mr. T, this is too hard! It's too much. I can't do it!" For a 16-year-old, creating a booklet or an extensive informative poster can seem like a monumental task, leading some to give up before they even started. I found myself wondering, "What am I doing wrong?" Eventually, I realized I needed to break projects into smaller, manageable steps so that students could feel a sense of mastery by tackling them bit by bit. Thus, I introduced the concept of "chunking" into my classroom. Instead of announcing at the beginning of class, "Today you will work on your informative poster on the history of Rome!" I switched to a more structured approach: "Today you will use your notes to write six sentences about the beginnings of Rome, including the legend of Romulus and Remus." This particular poster had six written components and three artistic ones. By working on it in the classroom over seven days, my students were able to complete it successfully. Chunking. Establishing a life in Italy can seem impossible, daunting, or confusing. However, if we "chunk" the process into smaller steps, it becomes entirely doable. We navigated these steps on our journey to Italy, sometimes out of order and occasionally backtracking. Here, I will lay them out logically. Step 3: Non-committal first steps The initial steps are exploratory. This means I am conducting research from home, and this phase starts not with Italy, but with self-reflection. Step 4: What am I looking for? The very first step is to reflect on myself and my interests. We initially skipped this step when we moved to Italy, thinking that simply being in the country was enough. However, we later realized we needed to reassess our direction. Let me explain. We initially moved to Puglia, where our friends lived, as it seemed like a logical starting point. We rented an apartment from a friend and stayed there—first for two weeks, then for a summer, and eventually we leased for a year, returning twice a year for 2-3 months each time. While in Puglia, we hadn't really focused on what we were looking for in Italy. Puglia felt comfortable for us since its beach lifestyle was similar to life in Southern California, where we are from. However, it started to feel like we were replicating our California life instead of embarking on something new. A local friend in Puglia pointed this out to us: "I see you guys as more interested in cultural and historical sites than in beach life. I think you should consider moving further north, perhaps to Tuscany, which is closer to the things you are interested in." This comment resonated with us because it was true. We found ourselves more attracted to the hilltop towns of Tuscany and cities like Florence, Siena, Assisi, and Pienza rather than spending our days lounging on the beach. We realized it was essential to take a moment to ask ourselves, "What are we really looking for?" The first step in planning a life in Italy is to determine what I am looking for. This will guide my choices of destinations. Am I interested in culture and history, or do I prefer nature and mountains? Do I enjoy beautiful beaches or vibrant cities? Clarifying my preferences will help me identify the areas in Italy that would suit me best. My interests may evolve and change throughout this journey. After living in Rome for eight years as a student, I desired a city bustling with street life. However, I soon realized that vibrant street life was primarily found in larger cities, which were beyond our budget. Consequently, my desire for bustling streets diminished in importance as other priorities took precedence. From the beginning, I knew I wanted to live in a town where I could walk to get coffee or a meal, but some of our friends preferred places outside of town, in the countryside, because that aligns with their lifestyle. Determining whether I want to live in a town or city versus the countryside is also an important consideration in this process. Step 5: Renting or buying? When we began our experience of living in Italy, we chose to rent a place from a friend. This decision turned out to be fortunate, as we eventually decided to leave Puglia and settle in Tuscany. If we had purchased a property in Puglia, the transition would have been much more complicated. However, we have known others who took the plunge and bought homes in Italy rather than renting. There is no right or wrong choice here. Reflecting on whether to rent or buy a property in Italy is an important, non-committal second step in the process. I spent a significant amount of time exploring real estate websites, looking at both properties for sale and rental listings. After living in Italy and gaining insight into how the market operates, I've realized that connecting with a local, trusted real estate agent makes navigating the rental and home buying process much more manageable. A good agent often has knowledge of rental options that are not widely advertised and is more familiar with the intricacies of the real estate market. If you're uncertain about whether to rent or buy, that's completely fine. We had similar doubts when we first visited Tuscany. We kept both options on the table and maintained an open mindset about what our experience there would reveal. Perhaps keeping both options—renting or buying—open, is a wise next step. Step 6: Limitations If I haven't addressed this before, now is the time to reflect on my limitations. Do I want to live in Italy full-time or part-time? What obstacles might I face with either option? If I choose to live part-time, am I familiar with the regulations of the Schengen zone? If I opt for full-time residency, have I researched the requirements for obtaining residency? This is the moment to do my homework. Initially, we believed we would live in Italy full-time and conducted extensive research on how to make it work. However, we faced numerous obstacles due to our commitments here in California that we couldn't escape. Eventually, we realized that it didn't have to be an all-or-nothing scenario. We could follow the Schengen zone rules while retaining our residency in California, allowing us to stay in Italy for up to 90 days within 180 days. Step 7: Budget To save time, the next step is to create a budget. Whether I am renting or buying, establishing a budget at this stage can be very beneficial. For renting, I need to determine how much I can afford to pay each month. I should also consider the cost of utilities. A trustworthy local realtor can provide valuable information on this. For buying, I need to identify my price range and consider whether I could make an all-cash purchase. Having a budget in mind will help me avoid wasting time exploring cities or areas that are beyond my financial means and may highlight other potential locations that I hadn't previously considered. So, the task is to come up with a budget for what I can afford for housing in Italy. Step 8: Areas or towns that fit my criteria This step is still part of my homework, and I can begin it now, even before visiting Italy. Once I have clarified my interests and worked out a budget, the next step is to identify which areas meet those two criteria. I will come up with three towns or areas to consider. To start, I can explore real estate websites to see which locations fit both my budget and interests. There are several sites available, but I prefer https://www.casa.it/ . Since there isn't an MLS in Italy, I will need to contact individual realtors for properties I am interested in. At this stage, reaching out to individual realtors for more information can provide insight into the real estate market in my chosen areas and help me find a reputable realtor to work with. It's important to remember that a town that seems perfect on paper may not be the right fit for me in reality, so it's essential to keep an open mind. There was a town in Tuscany that I felt confident about: it met our budget, was located in our desired geographical area, and had all the necessary amenities. However, when we visited, we sensed a "vibe" that didn't feel right, and we noticed some shabby areas that I hadn't anticipated. As a result, we decided to remove it from our list. Nevertheless, I'm glad we explored this town because it helped clarify what we were looking for. Step 9: Expat forums This step involves connecting with real people who live in the area I'm interested in to learn about their experiences. By learning from others' experiences, I can save time. Joining expat forums for the town or area is a beneficial next step. Through these forums, I can gain insights into the local amenities, the mindset of the residents, the expat community, local festivals, hiking or sports activities, cultural sites, and more. Step 10: Time to visit! This non-committal micro-step involves planning a vacation of one or two weeks in an area of interest. It's important to select a base town and be open to visiting at least three surrounding towns for comparison. The purpose of this visit is to gain a sense of the town, its people, and the quality of life, as well as to explore the housing options available (both for buying and renting). This step also includes reaching out to real estate agents in advance to schedule visits to properties that are for sale or rent. Even if I am not ready to make a decision yet, gathering information is beneficial. What if I really love a town that fits my budget, but the housing options are subpar? In that case, I can save time and emotional energy by letting go of that option early. Becoming familiar with the town, meeting locals and expats, visiting housing options, and getting a feel for the vibe of the area are all essential parts of this step. Step 11: Start over: re-evaluate After visiting the town or area I am interested in, it's time to start over with a re-evaluation. Experience is the best teacher—this is a lesson I learned from my students. When we approached the social studies unit on the Renaissance, my students seemed disinterested in events that happened so long ago. We took turns reading from their history books, but it was boring for them—and honestly, it was boring for me too. Using a series called "History Alive!", I created a virtual tour of Florence for my classroom. We developed 7-8 stations that small groups of students could visit to complete tasks or gather information. One station focused on "Brunelleschi's Dome," where students stood in a circle, supporting one another to form a dome. This hands-on activity helped them understand the engineering principles behind the dome's construction. At another station, students watched a two-minute video about Michelangelo's Statue of David, followed by a quick drawing activity in their notebooks based on what they had seen. Another station showcased some of the art found in the Uffizi Gallery. By the end of the class period, students had virtually visited the main sites of Florence, and in the days that followed, their interest in the subject grew. History had truly come alive for them. This engaging approach is similar to the process one might experience when discerning the idea of living in Italy. Do I still want to live in Italy full-time, part-time, or has my perspective changed? After experiencing a few towns or areas, has my focus shifted, or do I still want to concentrate on the same location? Has my budget changed? Has my idea of the type of house I am looking for evolved? Am I considering a free-standing home, a condo, a historical property, or a modern one? What other needs have emerged? These are all questions worth considering now that I have some experience, which will provide me with a clearer idea of what I am looking for. Step 12: Stay in my chosen area for 1-3 months I am ready to take a bigger step, which will feel natural after I have gone through the previous stages. Once I identify an area that might suit me, I plan to visit and stay there for 1 to 3 months. During this time, I will make an effort to get to know the locals and become familiar with the day-to-day aspects of living there over a more extended period. The dynamics of living in a town are entirely different from vacationing there. Staying for an extended period will clarify whether the amenities of the town will work for me. For example, since we go to the gym every day, we want to ensure that our home is no more than 15 minutes away from a gym. When we travel, we often skip the gym, don't cook, and don't consider access to medical care, supermarkets, or long-term parking. All these factors come to the surface when one stays in one place for at least a month. Will this town work for me? Could it feel like home? Does it have what I am looking for? Only the experience of living there for 1 to 3 months will provide the answers to these questions. Step 13: Ready for the next step If I have clarity about where I want to live, and it aligns with my interests and budget, then it's time to take the next step. I will find a trustworthy realtor and discuss options for renting a place for 12 months or purchasing a property. Even if I am a non-resident and can only stay in Italy for 3 months at a time, having a stable place for an extended period allows me to start establishing a life there. I'll be able to bring items over and leave them in Italy, allowing me to immerse myself in the daily life I have longed for. This will be a natural progression rather than a leap, as it is merely the result of the steps and experiences I have had up to this point. Will I always be a part-time resident, or will I eventually live in Italy full-time? It's okay not to know the answer to that question. The experience will reveal the path. Step 13: Trusting my experience No one can dictate the kind of life, town, or house that I should prefer in Italy. While others, especially expats, may offer suggestions and advice, I need to find a situation that aligns with who I am and what I desire. Breaking down the decision to live in Italy into "chunks" makes it manageable and builds on my personal experiences. Trusting my own experiences is how I know I am making the right decision. Step 14: Summary Let's summarize the steps to this journey towards a life in Italy: Discernment: What am I looking for? Deciding whether to rent or buy (or being open to both) Limitations: Live in Italy full or part-time? My budget? Which towns fit my criteria? Expat forums Short visit Re-evaluate my criteria More extended visit: 1-3 months Sign a 12-month lease or buy More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 156: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then return again in the Spring, and spend the rest of the time in California (as I explained in a previous blog, we only live in Italy for part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing.  This week, we will explore whether living in an Italian town without a train station is a viable option. Step 2: When deciding where to live in Italy, transportation was a major factor. Should we choose a location near a train station, or would we feel comfortable driving? Once we moved to Italy, would we have a car, and if so, would we buy, rent, or lease it? How reliant did we want to be on public transportation, and how much would we depend on a car? These were all important questions to consider as we evaluated our options for living in Italy. Step 3: Beginning in Puglia and transportation As many followers of this blog are aware, we started our journey by living in Puglia. We were situated in a smaller town about a half-hour drive from Lecce, a major city well connected to Rome and other cities by train. Although we didn’t need a car to get from Rome’s airport to our home in Puglia, we quickly learned that having one was essential to truly experience the region. Whether it was seeing the thousand-year-old mosaic floor in Otranto’s cathedral, attending a festa in a hilltop village, or visiting friends who lived in the countryside, a car turned out to be our lifeline. During our time in Puglia, we got comfortable with driving and found some affordable car rental and leasing options (see our blog about having a car in Italy: link ). Although our town in Puglia has a local train station that connects to Lecce, we never used it. We relied on our car for most travel, except for our arrival (from Rome to Lecce) and our departure for California (from Lecce to Rome). Step 4: Next step: Tuscany and transportation Before buying in Tuscany, we’d visited often enough to know that exploring areas like the Val d’Orcia without a car is nearly impossible. Cities like Florence or Siena don’t require driving—if anything, it’s a headache—but our hearts were in the smaller towns: Pienza, Montepulciano, San Quirico, Montalcino. We wanted to wind our way through the rolling hills, vineyards, and medieval villages that buses and trains can’t easily reach. By the time we began house hunting in Tuscany, we were completely comfortable with the idea of driving here. Even living near a train station wouldn’t have changed the fact that most of what we wanted to see would require a car. Step 5: Our Decision: Living Near a Train Station or Not? I understand the appeal of living along a major train route, as it offers easy access for travel, simpler visits from friends, and the option to avoid renting a car. We explored various towns with train stations in the areas we were interested in, but either we didn't like the towns or the housing options were outside of our budget. However, when we removed the requirement for a train station from our housing search, the possibilities expanded significantly. Ultimately, we chose the Monte Amiata area in Tuscany, where the nearest train station, Grosseto, is about 45 minutes away. This area appeals to us due to its proximity to cultural and historical sites, easy access to the Val d'Orcia, and opportunities for an active lifestyle, including hiking, cycling, skiing, and a well-equipped gym. Additionally, the housing options were within our budget parameters. In terms of our town itself, everything we need—shops, supermarkets, a post office, and historical landmarks—is within walking distance from our home. Still, for adventures beyond our immediate surroundings, having a car is essential. Step 6: Regrets? Do we have any regrets about not living near a train station in Italy? It's not that we oppose the idea of living near a train station; it simply never aligned with the towns we were interested in or could afford. Once we found our home in Monte Amiata, we knew it was the right choice for us. Our time in Puglia had already made driving feel natural, so the transition was seamless. We have no regrets at all. Step 7: Should you live in a town without a train station? What works for one person may not work for another, so I can't say whether someone should live in a town in Italy without a train station. If fear of driving is preventing someone from exploring this option, I recommend practicing driving abroad to overcome that fear. If the cost of owning a car in Italy is a concern, consider leasing or long-term rental options. If someone absolutely wants to live in a town along a train route, it’s important to find a town or city that has a train station and also meets their budget and personal criteria. For some individuals, living near a train route is essential, while for others, it is less critical. We have discovered that by letting go of the need for a train station, we have opened ourselves up to many more options, especially in Tuscany, where we are settling down. Insights: Whether or not to live along a train route in Italy depends on personal priorities: budget, lifestyle, travel habits. Our experience is just one example, but I hope it’s helpful for anyone weighing the options. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 149: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems that are worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's explore how purchasing a home in Italy changes how we pack. Step 2: My Goal Once we decided to establish a life in Italy, I set a goal: I wanted to travel between California and Italy without a suitcase. To achieve this goal, needed to stock our home in Tuscany with enough clothes and other supplies to avoid transporting items across the Atlantic. It seems like a realistic goal. How are we progressing? Step 3: Supplies Last year I was traveling to Tuscany to our completed home, and I wanted this to be the only trip during which I would need to bring two large suitcases. The first step was to decide what items I could buy in Italy and what I needed to bring from California so that I could leave all my clothes and supplies I would need at our home in Italy. Here are the steps I went through to figure out what I would or wouldn't need to bring: Clothing: Can I find my size in shoes and apparel in Italy? The short answer is no. No matter what store we went to in Italy, my feet were too big, and Italian men's clothing was too small, so I had to bring summer and winter clothing from the U.S. Toiletries: We all have our favorite toiletries, whether a specific deodorant, soap, face moisturizer, or other products that help us feel clean, fresh, and prepared for the day. I explored various pharmacies and online stores to see if I could find the toiletries I wanted while in Italy. If I couldn't locate the same brands, I discovered equivalent products. This approach allowed me to reduce the number of toiletries I needed to pack in my suitcase. Kitchen Supplies: Most kitchen supplies available in California can also be found in Italy, although some measurements may differ. During the cold months, we like using a crock pot, so we purchased one locally in Italy. We also found the rest of our kitchen supplies there, and having an IKEA nearby was very helpful. Food: While some expats bring food from their home countries to Italy, we chose not to do that—except for brownie mixes. We love our local fruits and vegetables, which taste fresher than we can find in the U.S. The local bakeries are fantastic, the coffee bars are excellent, and the poultry and beef are exceptional. So, why bring any food from the U.S. into Italy? (Except brownie mixes, of course). However, there are times when we crave something familiar... When I lived in Rome in the 1980s, peanut butter was rare, but now it's available in many Italian supermarkets. My partner and I love peanut butter, particularly the thicker variety, which isn't easily found in Italy. Instead, we often spend a little more on an American brand that doesn't run or drip from the bread. "I think I'm going to bring a Costco-sized jar of peanut butter next time," my partner recently said. "That would be great," I replied. However, I'm not planning to pack it in my suitcase. If he brings it over and the jar just sits in our kitchen in Tuscany, I might indulge a little... We haven't really felt the need to bring other foods to Italy. We did bring a box of See's candies for our Italian friends, but they found them too sweet. Brownie mixes are the only exception (the ones with walnuts!). Step 4: The challenge Supplies for Rome It would be simple to travel without any luggage if we were headed straight to our house in Tuscany after landing at the airport. However, since Rome holds a special place in my heart and always draws me back, I always arrive about a week before and spend some time in Rome before and after our stay in Tuscany. This means I have to make do with my small suitcase for about 7 days while I'm in Rome. Supplies in Tuscany The challenge is to carry as little as possible from California to Italy while ensuring I have enough supplies at our place in Tuscany. To help keep track of the supply items I already have in Tuscany (the things I brought over in my 2 huge suitcases last year) and those that I want to bring from the U.S., I've created a Google spreadsheet to organize my packing list. This sheet has columns for items that are "already in Italy" and those I "need to bring." It lists items such as medications, clothing items and some products that are difficult to find in Italy. This list evolves as I run low of supplies in Tuscany and need to bring an item or two. Check list for a week in Rome I have also created a checklist in Google Docs for my travel bag, which will serve as a carry-on for my week in Rome. This checklist includes every item I need for that week, detailing the exact number of socks and shirts to bring. By mapping everything out in advance, I can avoid the time-consuming process of staring at my suitcase and wondering how many pairs of pants to pack. I use this same list for every trip I take. I then add the items from my spreadsheet for Tuscany to my carry-on list, and I am set for the next trip! As our return to Italy approaches, I've streamlined my packing to just one carry-on. I included enough essential clothing for a week and basic toiletries to last a couple of days until I can shop in Rome for the rest. Additionally, I'm bringing a few items from my spreadsheet that I plan to leave in Tuscany, as I'm running low on them. There's no longer a need to check a bag. Step 5: Mission accomplished? Although my goal was to bring nothing back across the Atlantic, I couldn't achieve that due to my week-long stopovers in Rome. However, fitting my CPAP machine, clothing, and a few essential toiletries into one carry-on bag is a significant step forward. Exiting the plane without waiting for checked baggage is a fantastic feeling. Step 6: Having confidence in our life in Italy Learning to travel lighter is closely linked to building confidence in our life in Italy. Things will be different, and that's perfectly okay. We will find what we need and learn to adapt; it's all part of the adventure. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 153: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then return again in the Spring, and spend the rest of the time in California (as I explained in a previous blog, we only live in Italy for part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing.  This week, let's explore whether I am someone who dreams of moving to Italy or someone who actually does it. Step 2: Qualities of a Dreamer Visionary Thinking: Dreamers envision possibilities and possess a broad outlook on the future. They see the bigger picture and set long-term goals. Strong Vision: They have a vision of what they want to achieve in the future. Creative and Imaginative: Dreamers often have vivid imaginations and draw inspiration from new and innovative ideas. Motivated by Passion: They are driven by a desire to create something meaningful and impactful. Step 3: Qualities of a Doer Action-Oriented: Doers focus on taking action and accomplishing tasks. Detail-Oriented: They focus on the specific steps and details required to achieve their goals. Persistent: Doers are willing to put in the effort and work hard to overcome challenges. Practical: They concentrate on making things happen in the real world. Step 4: Living in Italy: Dreamers and Doers I can't count how many times friends and acquaintances have said, "I wish we could do what you're doing!" I always feel like responding, "You can; just take a small step." Many of us aspire to a bigger life. I remember when I worked for a nonprofit in Washington, DC, sitting in my cubicle and dreaming of a different life in a different place. Back then, I had no idea how to change my circumstances, so dreaming helped me cope. Two significant events shifted me from being a dreamer to becoming a doer: 1. I became increasingly determined to have a bigger life. I had my career, friendships, routines, and a stable life in the U.S., but that wasn't enough. I wanted more. 2. I lost several close friends who passed away before their time. This made me recognize that life is short, and if I keep postponing my dreams, I may never achieve them. Step 5: Is anything wrong with dreaming? Dreaming is often the first step toward taking action: I can't reach a goal or complete a task without first envisioning it. There's nothing wrong with dreaming, and it can sometimes help us navigate difficult circumstances. However, dreaming becomes an obstacle when it replaces taking action. Unless I am willing to turn my dream into reality, it will remain only in my mind. So, how can I take the next steps toward something as daunting as moving to Italy? Step 6: Baby steps and chunking I taught high school social studies in Los Angeles for 25 years, and one important lesson I learned from my students was the practice of "chunking." "Mr., I can't do this! It's too hard!" was a phrase I often heard during my early years of teaching. Since my approach was project-based, some projects were extensive, such as creating an illustrated booklet about World War II. Many students felt intimidated and believed they couldn't master the task. Then, I discovered the technique of "chunking." This involves breaking the project into smaller, manageable parts. "All you have to accomplish today is to write two paragraphs about the beginnings of World War II, using the outline I will provide and your notes." By dividing the larger project into bite-sized pieces and setting daily goals, rather than facing the entire assignment at once, my students completed their booklets with ease. In fact, we even visited a middle school where the students presented their booklets individually to the younger students. This same method can be applied to establishing a life in Italy. Eventually, we realized that we didn't need to understand every aspect of living in Italy right away. Instead, we could take small steps and learn along the way. We could "chunk it." Step 7: All or nothing Our journey began with a two-week trip to Italy during my winter break. This allowed us to explore different areas of interest, and we decided to start our Italian adventure in Puglia, where our friends live part-time. We later returned for two months during the summer, and then we leased a place for a year. During this time, we realized two important things: First, it didn't have to be all or nothing; we could live in Italy for part of the year while maintaining our residency in California. This arrangement better suited our commitments than a complete move. While our time in Puglia was wonderful, primarily because of our local friends, it felt too much like Southern California for us. We didn't travel all the way to Italy just to replicate our Californian lifestyle. Therefore, we searched for an area in Tuscany that better aligned with our interests and desires for history, culture, and more, and ultimately, we decided to buy a house there. Step 8: Making it happen and learning along the way Stepping out of the dream and into reality meant taking a small step: coming to Italy for two weeks and staying in the area we were interested in. The next step was to stay for an entire summer. During our first two years of establishing a life in Italy, we rented a place. Purchasing our home in Tuscany felt like a logical next step rather than a radical leap. Taking it one step at a time worked for us, helping us turn our dreams into reality. Could this approach also work for you? More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 151: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's stay closer to home and reflect on some things we are learning as we renovated our house in Tuscany. Step 2: Contractor and architect and local codes We began our renovation project in Tuscany, thinking that, similar to our previous renovation in California, we simply needed a contractor to start the work. As the house is in a historical center, we assumed that we wouldn't need any approvals or permits as long as we didn't alter the exterior. We soon realized we were mistaken; we had to file paperwork before we could begin. Our contractor mentioned, "I have an architect I've worked with for years. He can handle the paperwork and obtain the necessary approvals for you." We learned that either an architect or a "geometra" , is essential for researching local building codes and managing the paperwork needed to initiate major renovations on a property. We also discovered that working with an architect with a good relationship with the contractor can significantly streamline the process. Our architect was reasonably priced compared to the costs in California. He conducted inspections before, during, and after the work, ensuring everything complied with local codes. The paperwork was submitted to government office in Grosseto, and he got it approved within a few days. When it comes to finding a reliable architect, "geometra" or contractor, recommendations from realtors or local friends are the best resources. Fortunately, we were referred to an excellent architect and contractor who performed quality work at a reasonable price. Remember: things work more smoothly and quickly in Italy through relationships. Step 3: Looking for materials: Speciality shops versus big box stores like Tecnomat When we started renovating our house in Tuscany, we asked our contractor to source all the materials for us, including tiles, vanities, showers, and lighting, as we were unfamiliar with where to find supplies in Italy. After spending a few days on-site, we discovered a mix of specialty shops and big-box stores in our area of Tuscany. It seemed that in Italy, at least in our part of Tuscany, there were either expensive specialty shops offering a wide range of products—from tiles to custom bathrooms—or large big-box stores, with little in between. We decided to refine some of our contractor's choices and see if we could build our renovation project around a selected color palette and theme while keeping in budget. Initially, we visited the specialty shops and found some unique tiles for our kitchen backsplash that complemented our chosen decor color of green. However, we noticed that some of the smaller specialty stores dramatically increased our budget for showers, bathroom vanities, faucets, lighting, and other renovation materials. We set out to find sources for general renovation materials, such as showers, faucets, sinks, toilets, and more. We discovered Tecnomat, which is Italy's closest equivalent to Home Depot. We drove to the location near Florence to explore their selection and look for shower tiles that we needed for the next day. To our pleasant surprise, we found a wide variety of options and were able to select the right color and size. Additionally, we came across good-quality toilets, mirrors, vanities, and faucets that could be useful for future renovation projects. We concluded that Tecnomat is an excellent source of essential renovation materials. Step 4: Swapping out a kitchen We found that we could replace our kitchen, including all the appliances, for less than it would cost in the U.S. In Italy, it's common to purchase a complete kitchen package that includes cabinets and appliances, often with installation included. Deciding to install a new kitchen was an easy choice for us. Step 5: Ordering materials and waiting In our region of Tuscany, several independently owned home and builder supply stores exist. Most materials, such as tiles, showers, sinks, and toilets, must be ordered rather than readily available in stock. We initially assumed that everything displayed in the stores would be in stock, but this was often untrue. As a result, work sometimes had to stop while we waited for orders to arrive. In the future, understanding this situation will help us submit orders well before we need the materials from local suppliers. Step 6: Visiting Ikea is helpful During our renovation, we realized that the bathroom we were designing lacked sufficient storage. The existing bathroom had no drawers or cabinets, and the flat wall mirror provided no extra space for our bathroom supplies. We visited a local builders' supply store to explore various vanities and storage options, but we couldn't find anything that suited our design or needs. "I don't want to step into an IKEA in Italy!" I told my partner months earlier. However, we needed storage ideas and didn't know where else to go. Fortunately, the trip was helpful, as it gave us ideas even if we decided to purchase elsewhere. While exploring the model bathrooms at IKEA, we came up with great solutions to create more storage in our space. In fact, we decided to cancel the order for the bathroom vanity we had initially placed with our local building supply store and found a different option elsewhere that offered ample storage. Whether you choose to purchase or not, visiting IKEA is a fantastic way to browse and gather ideas for a renovation. Step 7: Local stores and Amazon I prioritize supporting local stores over big box retailers or Amazon. Down the street from us in our town, there is an electronics store where we bought our clothes dryer, toaster, and a shop vacuum. When we need materials for our renovation, we first explore local businesses. If they don't have what we're looking for, we head to Tecnomat. If we still can't find it there, we go to Amazon. We recently needed to replace the lighting fixtures in our home but couldn't find anything that matched the modern Tuscan style we were trying to achieve at our local stores. The options available either appeared too old-fashioned or too "space age" modern. In the end, we turned to Amazon, where we easily found lighting fixtures that suited the style of our house. If anything arrived and looked different than expected, we returned it to Amazon through our local post office. Our rule of thumb is to first check local businesses, then big box stores, and lastly, Amazon. As we embark on our journey of building a life in Italy and renovating our house in Tuscany, we are learning valuable lessons along the way. One of the most important discoveries we've made is that relationships matter and referrals are essential. We now view this process as an adventure rather than merely something to endure. More next time. SECOND EDITION NOW ON SALE FOR $2.99! "She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome." https://a.co/d/4Bx0Eh3 . Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 3: I thought it might be of interest to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We are in Puglia until the end of September, then back again in the winter. The title of this posting is: citizenship, Visa or Passport? Step 1: Our first step was to decide how long we want to be in Italy initially. From our research, we discovered that, with a US passport, the formula is, more or less, 90 days in and then 90 days out. Step 2: But should we want to stay longer what are our options? Since neither of us qualify for Italian citizenship, our next option was applying for a visa. Since I just recently retired, I could qualify for the elective visa, which we will look into in the future. Step 3: How long? Our choice is to remain in Italy for part of the year and in California for the other part, due to our ties and obligations. But how long would we stay each time? This was the nagging question. Step 4: Decisions. We decided to do a trial run of three months, a little shy of 90 days, as our initial stay. This seems wiser to us than a complete plunge. For this, we would only need our passports and not a visa. Step 4: Future questions. We decided to take our life in Italy one step at a time. So far, our life here has been amazing. I may apply for a visa in the future, but for right now, coming on a passport for 90 days is a great beginning way to experience life here as a resident. Watch for my book coming out later in the year: "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy". More next time.

PART 46: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the Summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: I lived in Italy for eight years in the 1980s, and now we are returning, living in Puglia following the 90 days in/out model (see previous blog). Peoples, cultures, and practices evolve, including the emergence of American foods in Italy. Examining some foods that have entered the Italian mainstream might be fun. Step 2: The pancake. I was in our grocery store in Puglia recently, looking at all the packages of cookies that I shouldn't be buying. One package caught my eye since it was labeled "pancakes." Of course, I picked it up and squeezed it. Yep, cooked pancakes inside wrapped in cellophane. I called my partner over and showed him with a curious expression. We went for coffee the following week, and I saw pancakes on the menu, so I ordered them. A few minutes later, I had a nice stack of 3 pancakes with maple syrup, nuts, and bananas in front of me. When I squeezed the bag of pancakes in the grocery store and then ordered them at our cafe, the pancakes had a similar feel of density. The pancakes were not light and fluffy but were much firmer than what I am used to, having been made beforehand. I have seen cooked pancakes stacked up and pre-prepared, in fact, in several cafes. In conclusion, the pancake has entered the mainstream in Italy, but it is a different take. I don't find pancakes in Puglia better or worse than the fluffier type I am used to since they are a different type of product adapted to another kind of taste. I am glad that I can appreciate both. Step 3: Peanut butter. I love my peanut butter but hate the kind that separates into a layer of oil. Personal preference. When I lived in Rome in the 1980s, the seminary supplied us with peanut butter (shipped in from Africa) because of the number of Americans. But then, one day during a conference, the priest in charge claimed it caused cancer, so the peanut butter stopped. We suspected the real reason was the expense; he wanted to reduce the budget, so he made a story to cover his tracks. Fast forward to now; we can find peanut butter in just about every supermarket we have set foot in here in Puglia. But in our experience, stores tend to carry less expensive Italian brands with a layer of oil, or Skippy, which spreads easier. What is the downside? Skippy peanut butter is expensive. Our solution: buy the Skippy but stop putting gobs of it on a sandwich as we do back in California. If I have to spread thinner to keep getting my Skippy, I will do that! Step 4: Doughnuts. When I lived in Italy in the 1980s, I saw donuts at most bars and cafes; they were always sugar donuts. I am not a big donut eater, but occasionally, I would enjoy a fresh Italian donut with a crunchy sugary crust. What about the American version of donuts, covered with maple, vanilla, pink, blue, and almost every other color and flavor of frosting? Back in California, there are so many choices that sugar donuts get hidden by the maple bars and strawberry-filled jellies. Back to Italy: I've always felt a sense of pride that Italy seemed to have stood fast and stuck with the simple but fresh sugar donut. But alas, all things change. I counted at least five different frosting colors on the donuts at the bakery in our supermarket. I saw the increased variety as a setback rather than progress. Why can't we stick to the delicious fresh sugar donuts, which depend more on simple, fresh ingredients rather than crazy-colored frostings? Give me my plain sugar donut, please. Step 5: Coca-cola and milk. Years ago, a family I knew invited me to a formal lunch at their home in southern Italy. When we sat down, everyone except me had a wine glass on the table. In front of my dish was placed a can of Coke. Since I was friends with this family, I laughed out loud. "But don't you always drink Coca Cola?" one of my hosts asked. "I haven't drunk a Coke in years!" I replied. "What do you drink with your meals?" they asked. I thought for a moment. "Well, water, juice, or sometimes, when I have a sandwich for lunch, a glass of milk." You can guess what happened next. "Milk! Milk???? Milk with a meal????" I still hear about that one. Coca-cola has been mainstream in Italy for decades; the first bottle produced in the country was in 1927. It is a popular beverage, as evidenced by various varieties in stores. The stereotype that Americans drink Coke a lot still has some remnants here. Some do, but others stick to water, juices, and other beverages. I have to make a confession: recently, the longer I am in Puglia, the more often I ask for a Coke Zero, whereas in California, I rarely touch it. Why is that? As far as drinking a glass of milk with a sandwich for lunch…well, my local friends still think I'm crazy when I do that. But I like my milk. What can I say? Insights: American foods working their way into Italian culture can be gratifying, amusing, or regrettable. (I hope junk food doesn't replace the incredible cuisine here.) It can be interesting to trace the influence of cultures through foods and appreciate what is unique to certain areas; it helps one understand that the intermingling of cultures can have many positive, negative, or neutral effects. More next time. SECOND EDITION NOW ON SALE FOR $2.99!  “She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome.” https://a.co/d/4Bx0Eh3 .  Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 83: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. This week, let's explore the Knights Templar in the Monte Amiata area of Tuscany. Step 2: Who were the Templars? The Knights Templar was a military order in the Middle Agrs that followed a monastic lifestyle and was trained in combat to protect Christian holy sites and pilgrims in the Middle East and other places. They were a significant and elite part of the Crusader armies, with their headquarters first in Jerusalem and then in Acre, near Haifa in Israel. The Order was founded in 1118 and "stopped functioning" in 1312. They were actually suppressed because of others' jealousy and greed, but that is another story. Step 3: History of Templars in Tuscany Tuscany was one of the wealthiest and most advanced economies in western Christendom, and the trade routes between East and West passed through it, as did the pilgrimage routes to Rome and the Adriatic ports for embarkation to the East. From receiving their first donation in Tuscany in 1138, the Knights Templar built an impressive network of receiving houses connecting the cities of Florence, Siena, Pisa, and the coast. Maremma region in Tuscany Routes to Maremma's hills and the coast from Florence to Poggibonsi and San Gimignano converged with those from Siena at Frossini, north of Massa Marittima. There are eleven verified Templar buildings in Tuscany, four of which are in the Maremma Grossetana area: the Church of Mercy in Grosseto, the Magione of San Salvatore in Grosseto, the Pieve di Santa Cristina and Ospedaletto in Rochette Fazio, and the Pieve Santa Mustiola at Sticciano. Numerous places in Maremma and greater Tuscany are believed to have a connection to the Templars. Local legends and the symbolism that can still be seen today on doors and walls strongly suggest this connection, but there is no solid evidence for many of the sites. Step 4: The Templars and the Maremma The Templars exact location in Maremma is not well documented as they were exempted from paying taxes by Pope Innocent II; thus, their presence is not found in administrative documents. However, as stated above, various symbols can be attributed to the Templars along the main communication routes of that time. These symbols provided reference points for pilgrims, who could receive the message that they were safe and protected and on the right path. Some of the places in Maremma where these symbols can be found include San Rabano in Alberese, San Martino in Magliano, S. Pietro e Paolo in Sovana, the village of Rocchette di Fazio, S. Salvatore in Istia, and throughout Arcidosso. Step 5: Templar symbolism found in the area The primary emblem of the Order of the Temple was the Patent Cross, which had arms that widened at the ends and was used to identify the Templar members. The word ""patent"" comes from the Latin ""patentem,"" which means enlarged. In addition to the Patent Cross, the Templars used various symbols to allude to their mission and beliefs. These symbols can be found throughout the village of Arcidosso and in its parish church. Step 6: The Templars and Arcidosso (our town!) Arcidosso is a village situated on Mount Amiata connected to the Knights Templar. The town is rich in symbols frequently used by the Order of Soldier Monks. Around the year 1000, Arcidosso was ruled by the Aldobrandeschi family, one of the most powerful families of the Middle Ages. During that time, the Maremma territory, like much of Europe, was perilous due to the presence of pirates and bandits. Hence, it was crucial to protect both the population and the pilgrims traveling to the Holy Land. To achieve this, the Templars were established to safeguard the roads the pilgrims used. Initially, the Order consisted of a few knights known as ""Poor companions in arms of Christ and of the Temple of Solomon."" Later, the Templar Order grew, and their protection was extended to the major routes used by pilgrims, such as the Via Francigena and through the town of Arcidosso. Step 7: Hunting for Templar Symbols in Arcidosso Taking a stroll through Arcidosso village, one cannot miss the mysterious Templar symbols on buildings, the castle, and churches like San Leonardo. Church of San Leonardo The Church of San Leonardo is situated in a medieval square, the convergence point of several alleys. On the church's left side is a rectory displaying the coat of arms of the Abbey of San Salvatore. Beside the rectory was a hostel that used to provide pilgrims refuge. The original door is located on the short side of the building, beneath the arch. Even though it is blocked up, the arch of the door bears the symbol of the Agnus Dei (a lamb with a cross), representing Christ. On the right side of the supporting column of the entrance portal of the church, at the height of a person's face, you can see the patent Templar cross. In an alley behind the church, on a cornerstone of the wall, underneath the electrical wires, there is an inscription, believed to be from the 16th century, that contains several alchemical symbols, such as a circle with a point, which represents the sun, and a triangle with the points downwards, which represents water. On the jamb of a window, on the other side of the same building, there is the symbol of a fish and a patent cross. There seems to be a convergence of Templar and alchemical symbols in Arcidosso. Via Talassese and Clock Tower Via Talassese is one of the main streets in the village. Several shops lined the road, as indicated by symbols on the buildings. For instance, a horseshoe can be seen above a former blacksmith shop. On the arch of a window on this street, you can see a circle with rays, an alchemical symbol of the sun. In 1200, the Aldobrandeschi constructed Porta di Mezzo as an entrance to Via Talassese. Later, Porta di Mezzo was remodeled during the rule of the Republic of Siena with the addition of the clock tower. Palazzo Giovannini, the home of one of the families closely associated with the Medici, is located near Porta di Mezzo, or Clock Tower, along Via Talassese. The portal was added in the style of a diamond-pointed symbol to add prestige to this family's important building. A particularly significant alchemical symbol can be seen in the stone coat of arms at the corner of the building: a seven-pointed star or the heptagram. The heptagram on the Palazzo Giovannini The heptagram represents Venus in cosmology. However, the number seven is also seen as the number of perfection and the number of life, where matter meets spirit. It is also the alchemical number of the seven elements (air, fire, water, earth, life, light, and magic) and the seven planets (sun, moon, Mars, Mercury, Jupiter, Venus, and Saturn). Seven is also a significant biblical number. The significance of the heptagram here is still under debate, as are many other Templar images found in the area. The intriguing open question is: why is there a convergence of Templar and alchemical symbols throughout the town of Arcidosso? (That could be a great topic for somebody's dissertation!) Step 8: Sources: https://persaperilmondo.com/arcidosso-e-templari/ . World History Encyclopedia. Insights: Uncovering proof of the existence of the Knights Templar in Tuscany sounds like a chapter straight out of "The Da Vinci Code." However, the focus here is on historical facts rather than fiction. Regardless of one's personal beliefs about the Templars, they were an intriguing society of the past whose remnants still exist today for curious individuals to discover. Their symbols and legacy continue to be researched and debated by scholars and enthusiasts alike. More next time. Now on sale for $2.99: My book is ""Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy."" Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRKMKPWF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_X2WRQ3PTG2ZDD7AVF6GH And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/dp/8865318236?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_5KEAN2PWRTHQQ0X1PMTP

PART 84: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: We recently bought a house in Italy (Tuscany) and were given unclear information about whether we needed a bank account in Italy to purchase a house. I am not setting myself up as an expert in this area, but I am happy to share some of our experiences. Step 2: Do I need a bank account in Italy? The simple answer is: No. Down payment: I can wire the down payment directly from my bank to the seller's bank to purchase a house in Italy. Balance of purchase: When it comes time to pay the balance, I can wire the remainder to the bank of the Italian Notary handling the sale. Step 3: What about the Fiscale Code (codice fiscale)? IIt is mandatory to have an Italian tax code for several activities, such as opening an Italian bank account, starting an Italian court dispute, buying or inheriting an Italian property, registering a preliminary contract for a property purchase, getting Wifi installed, applying for a utility connection or applying for an Italian mortgage. When my partner and I decided to purchase a property in Italy, I had already applied for my fiscal code through an Italian consulate in the US. However, after a month, I still hadn't heard anything back. I started to get nervous because the purchase date was approaching. Our realtor told us that they could obtain a codice fiscale much quicker. We decided to let the realtor take over the process, and we obtained our fiscal codes within a week. Step 4: Is it BETTER to have an Italian bank account set up before purchasing a home in Italy? The overwhelming answer is: YES! We returned to the United States after our offer on the house was accepted without opening an Italian bank account. We chose to wire the money to a notary and let him handle the transaction. However, we soon discovered that the process of closing the sale on the house can be more complicated without an Italian bank account. Here are some of the challenges we faced: Firstly, we had to wire money to several banks: The down payment to the owner's bank The balance of the cost of the house to another bank The taxes and notary expenses to another bank Each wire from a US bank would have fees and/or lower than market exchange rates. Secondly, I wanted to wire the balance of the house payment from my investments instead of directly from a bank. However, I found out that it can take weeks to get approval from an investment firm for a third-party payment (wiring the money to a bank account that is not mine). I had to change my strategy since I only had a few weeks before the closing. I had the investment firm wire the money to my US bank account, and then I had my bank wire it to Italy. However, like most others, my bank didn't give me a great exchange rate, and I didn't have enough time to learn how to use services like Wise or other transfer services. Finally, fees are attached to a notary handling the final payment for the house rather than the buyer bringing a certified check from the bank. Despite these challenges, we overcame them all and successfully closed on the house. Step 5: How to open an Italian bank account: Can I do it online? It has been said that opening a bank account in Italy online is possible. Before purchasing our house, while we were in Rome a few days before returning to California, I visited the bank's website and filled out the questionnaire. I thought it would be an easy process and that we would have our bank account before buying the house. However, I encountered a question that required me to scan in my Tessera Sanitaria, or Italian health insurance card. Since we were not residents, we did not have one. Fortunately, there are branches of this bank all over Rome. I took my computer, walked to the branch and explained the problem. "You don't need to be a resident of Italy to open a bank account. However, you do need to be a resident to open an account online. You just need your passport to open an account in person," they told me. Therefore, to open an online bank account, you must be a registered resident of Italy. Otherwise, you must do it in person. One requirement of opening up a bank account in Italy is supplying the bank with an Italian address of residence. Since we had been renting a home in Puglia, this wasn’t a problem for us. In fact, the bank told me that I could supply the address of the home we were purchasing, even though we hadn’t closed on it yet.  Step 6: Opening an account in a different city. At the same bank in Rome, I asked, "So can I just open an account here and then access it from Tuscany, where we will live?" The bank employee shook her head. "In theory, yes, you can access your funds anywhere. But I would strongly suggest you open your account in the town where you will be living. Otherwise, you will not have access to some of the bank services you may need." In California, my bank is in Los Angeles, and I live in Palm Springs; I have access to all bank services everywhere. But, according to the banks in Italy that I consulted, opening one's account in the city of residence is always recommended to access all of the bank's services. Step 7: What about utilities? Based on what my expat friends have told me, there are a few options to pay for utilities in Italy. You can pay in person, use PayPal, or pay through your bank. However, the most convenient way to manage your utility payments in Italy is by connecting them to your Italian bank account and setting up automatic payments. This will help avoid any issues that may arise from missed payments due to an oversight, such as a lost email or a mistake made while using PayPal. To avoid any potential issues with our utility payments, our realtor has helped us set up automatic payments. Step 8: Opening the account in our town We just arrived in Tuscany to finalize the purchase of our house. We transferred the money for the purchase to the Notary, who did an excellent job guiding us through the closing process. The next day, I visited a local branch of Intesa San Paolo, a well-known Italian bank, to open my first bank account in Italy. The account opening process took two days but was effortless and straightforward. The day after opening the account, I wired money from the US to the account to make paying for home renovations more manageable. Having an Italian bank account has made money transfers, bill payments, and obtaining euros much more convenient. I regret not having done it sooner. Insights: We are gradually discovering what life in Italy is like and adapting as we go. Despite making mistakes along the way, we try to learn from them. We always seek guidance from locals and draw insights from our experiences. The process would have been smoother if we had opened an Italian bank account before buying a house. Now that we have a local bank account, paying bills and handling other expenses has become much easier. More next time. Now on sale for $2.99: My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRKMKPWF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_X2WRQ3PTG2ZDD7AVF6GH Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 88: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas and towns in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. This week, let's explore an abbey dating from 1319. Step 2: History The Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore, located in Tuscany, is a Benedictine monastery founded in 1319 by three Senese noblemen who decided to embrace the Benedictine way of life. The monastery comprises different buildings from the 1300s to the 1700s and is built around three cloisters of various sizes. The Great Cloister is home to frescoes of the Life of St. Benedict, painted by Luca Signorelli and Giovanni Bazzi (Il Sodoma). The church, which dates back to the 1400s, showcases artworks by Il Sodoma and a magnificent wooden inlaid choir by Giovanni da Verona. The Middle and Small Cloisters are currently not open to visitors. However, the Monastic Library houses around 40,000 volumes and is accessible via stairs decorated with frescoes by Sodoma. The church is designed like a Latin cross and was renovated in the Baroque style in 1772. The main attraction is the amazing wooden inlaid choir, which dates from 1505. Behind the main altar is a painting of the Assumption, dating from 1598, and there is also a dramatic 14th-century wooden Crucifix in the Sacrament Chapel. Step 3: Visiting and what not to miss After parking your vehicle, you can reach the Abbey by walking through a fortified medieval building with a square tower and a drawbridge. The entrance to the building features a stunning glazed terracotta Madonna and Child, which is likely a product of the famous Della Robbia family. The building now houses a restaurant and bar with an outside terrace. After leaving the entrance building, you will proceed down a long avenue flanked by cypress trees. About halfway down the avenue, you will find a sizeable 16th-century fish pool, and at the end of the avenue, you will see the Abbey itself. When you visit the Abbey, be sure not to miss the inlaid choir inside the Abbey church. The great cloister's frescoes are the Abbey's real attraction. Thirty-five frescoes cover the entire surface of the four sides of the cloister. These frescoes depict the life of St. Benedict and are considered masterpieces of the Italian Renaissance due to their incredibly vivid colors and rich details. The paintings offer a fascinating look at the life and landscape of the time. Step 4: Our experience I enjoy living monasteries. It makes me feel empty if I visit an abbey or monastery that has been abandoned, even if it is filled with great artwork. So when our local friend informed us that this monastic community had been present at the Abbey since the 1300s and that about 30 monks were in the community who chanted their prayers every day, with their culminating event, the Gregorian Chant Mass, on Sundays, I was excited to go and visit. I was surprised by the vast grounds, the beauty of the woods lining the path to the Abbey, and the peacefulness of the place. When we entered the church, the organ filled the space with incredible music, the monks were preparing for the service, and the fantastic architecture and the inlaid choir stalls were striking. Regarding the Gregorian Chant service, I realized that it is not entertainment. The music developed in the 9th and 10th centuries and is more subtle than "in your face." I had to settle into it and stop my mind from trying to understand the words. Once I allowed myself to be carried by the chant, I was in another world. On that particular day, we had to go to Florence for an errand, so we skipped the cloister frescos. We had seen them a few years before but resolved to return in a few weeks to give them the focus they deserve. When we walked out of the church, the first thing I said to my partner was: "What do you think if we would come here once a month?" It was that type of experience; it keeps drawing you back. Step 5: Cool things The pharmacy The monastery pharmacy continues its tradition of preparing herbal remedies for body health. One of the liqueurs available at the pharmacy is La Flora di Monte Oliveto, a blend of 23 herbs that have been infused for more than six months according to the recipe of the ancient pharmacy of the Abbey. Wine cellar In the upper courtyard, on the side of the church, there is a shop that sells souvenirs and products from the Abbey's farm. Try the herbal liqueur, which is believed to have curative properties. It's highly recommended that you visit the wine cellar located below the cloister. Here, you can witness giant wine barrels containing wine produced from selected vineyards in the surrounding area and taste the wines with the guidance of an expert. The guest house According to the thousand-year-old Benedictine tradition, the monks at Oliveto provide accommodation at their guesthouse next to the abbey church. The guesthouse has twenty-five rooms and is modern, clean, and inviting. The restaurant/cafe A historic restaurant run by the Giustarini family is located at the main entrance of the Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore. The family specializes in Tuscan cuisine. You can savor a variety of delicious dishes such as ribollita, croutons, cold cuts, cheeses (including the authentic Tuscan pecorino), and flavorful meats. The restaurant's atmosphere is warm and welcoming, making you feel right at home. On sunny days and during summer, you can enjoy your meal at the outdoor tables under the umbrellas. The evening atmosphere resembles the past, with flavors, sounds, and lights transporting you back in time. The land The monastery today is surrounded by picturesque countryside, which boasts cultivated fields, vineyards, olive trees, and woods. The monks residing here have been engaged in agriculture since the 1300s and have produced various products such as olive oil, wines, cereals, and liquors. These products are available at the monastery itself or can be purchased online. The monks generate their income through these activities. The drive to Florence After attending the Sunday service, we had to go to Tecnomat in Florence. So, we put on our GPS and started driving through the rolling hills. I am mentioning the drive because as soon as we left the monastery grounds, it felt like we were driving through some fantasy land for the next hour or so. The rolling green hills and stone houses looked like something out of a dream. We were so enchanted by the beauty of the place that we decided to take our visitors on the same drive after a visit to the Abbey. Step 6: Link https://www.monteolivetomaggiore.it Insights: Experiencing a living monastery is more than touring an ancient series of buildings representing something from the past. Visiting the Abbey of Monte Oliveto was like stepping into another world that still exists today, being renewed by it, and returning to daily life. As we drove through the hills to Tecnomat outside Florence, we knew we would revisit the Abbey because the experience was too beautiful to be had only once. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .