PART 142: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's stay in town and visit our local government offices to find out how to pay the property taxes (IMU) on our home and for garbage collection. Step 2: What is IMU? The Italian Municipal Property Tax (IMU) is a wealth tax imposed on immovable property, including buildings, building areas, and agricultural land. IMU stands for Imposta Municipale Unica, meaning "Unique Municipal Tax." This property tax applies when an individual possesses or owns real estate. It is levied on residential, commercial, and land properties. Each co-owner's tax amount is calculated based on the months they owned the property throughout the year. It is determined according to the property's cadastral value, as recorded in the building register. Unlike in other countries, homeowners in Italy will not receive a bill or reminder from their municipality regarding IMU payments. Therefore, it is the homeowner's responsibility to calculate and pay the applicable IMU amount annually. IMU EXEMPTION: Because IMU is a tax on second homes, primary residences are exempt – unless they are luxury properties categorized as A1, A8, or A9 in the land registry. IMU is categorized as a local tax, meaning that each municipality can impose an additional tax rate on top of the standard national rate, following specific parameters set by law each year. As a result, the IMU amount due for similar properties can differ from one municipality to another and from year to year. To calculate the IMU, the following information is required: 1. The property's taxable value and any outbuildings, such as garages, parking spaces, or cellars (rendita catastale). 2. The category type: A is for residential properties, while C is for accessory buildings (e.g., garage as C6 or storage room as C2). 3. The current IMU tax rate (aliquota) applied by the municipality where the property is located. 4. The cadastral coefficient values for each cadastral category. Don't worry: I will explain more about this below. Step 3: What are the garbage collection fees? Since we live in the historical center, we take our garbage down the hill to dispose of it in four separate bins, depending on the type of trash. After registering the house in our name, we received a plastic card that, when placed against a sensor on each bin, unlocks the lid for depositing our waste. While we were in Puglia, where we lived outside the historical center, trash was collected right in front of our house, so we didn't need to access neighborhood garbage bins. Our landlord paid the garbage bills for us. Now that we have purchased a house in Tuscany, we can't rely on a landlord to pay our garbage fees. We wanted to ensure that we didn't fall behind on our trash disposal bills, so we visited our local government office. Step 4: Our visit to the local government office (Comune) We noticed a sign reading "Comune" posted outside a majestic historical building in the center of our town. Unsure of where to go for information on IMU payments or trash collection fees, it seemed like a logical place to start. We walked in without an appointment and explained our needs to the attendant, who directed us to the appropriate office upstairs. Since it was just before lunchtime, the building was mostly deserted. We didn't find anyone in the upstairs office, so we waited until someone arrived and asked how they could assist us. A few minutes later, we were taken to the correct office, where the official on duty paused his work and kindly explained how to pay the IMU and garbage collection fees. Step 5: Paying the IMU The local government does not send out property tax bills; instead, it is the homeowner's responsibility to visit their bank and arrange payment. Although the Comune provided me with the formula for calculating the tax amount, I remained confused. He even recommended an app that calculates one's IMU, but I decided I needed more clarity. I spoke with other expats whose accountants ("commercialista") handle their IMU payments. Consequently, I contacted our excellent realtor, who referred us to a reliable accountant. For a small fee, this accountant helps manage the payment of our IMU directly from my Italian bank account. We found the property tax and garbage collection fees to be much lower than in California. No more confusion about the IMU! Step 6: Paying the garbage fees "But," I said to our local government official, "what if we fall behind on the garbage fees? We will be in California when some of the bills arrive. Can we get a bill emailed and then pay online?" He reassured us that there would be no problem, even though online billing and payments were not possible. He suggested that when we are in town during the Spring and Fall, we could come down to his office to find out what we owed, or arrange payment. Alternatively, he mentioned that we could simply email him and then go to our bank to have it paid. He made it very straightforward and assured us that a late payment due to being out of town would not be held against us. Insights: I don't know if all local government offices in Italy provide the same level of personal attention and patience we experience in Arcidosso. However, managing taxes, energy bills, and sanitation fees has become significantly easier here. The professionalism and willingness of the staff to guide us through the processes, along with their availability for questions and clarifications, is something I have never encountered in any other government office. Anywhere. When we went to our local bank (Intesa San Paolo) to pay the fees, the process was completely smooth and it only took a few minutes. We are so grateful. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 140: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing.  This week, let's explore our adventure in Rome during Easter weekend. Step 2: Whenever I go to Rome, I encounter a series of extraordinary situations and weird coincidences. This trip was no exception. Step 3: The plan I told my partner last year, "I would like to go to Rome during Easter week next year to experience the Easter Triduum services at the Vatican.'" He responded, "That sounds cool." Since it's a Jubilee year, we booked our Airbnb a year in advance and planned to stay from Thursday to Monday. Step 4: The transportation When I was young and broke, I always chose the cheapest lodging and modes of travel. When I was 19, I flew to London and then took a train to Rome, crossing the Channel on a ferry. It was a challenging experience, but it was affordable. Now, we have two choices to get to Rome from our area in Tuscany: take a train from Grosseto or drive. Driving would increase the cost due to parking fees in Rome, whereas taking the train would require us to transport our suitcases on a bus to reach our lodging. My partner suggested, "Let's drive; it's worth it. " I agreed. My teacher's pension would cover half the parking expenses, so we decided to skip the train and drive instead. It turned out to be a great idea. We parked at the foot of the Gianicolo Hill and were able to walk to our Airbnb in just seven minutes. Suppose you habitually choose the lowest-cost transportation due to past experiences. In that case, it's worth pausing to reflect on whether you can afford a more convenient and comfortable way to get there. I'm glad we did. Step 5: Thursday night: The city and the church We arrived on Thursday, known as "Holy Thursday" in the Catholic calendar, during a brief but intense rain shower that drenched us. When we reached our AirBnB, we found it was still being cleaned, so we decided to head to Piazza Navona after the rain stopped. We discovered a charming café under the arches, next to the Museo di Roma. After securing a premier spot by a window with a heater, we ordered cream teas and hung our jackets on the coat rack to dry. Sometimes, it's best to pause and enjoy the moment before moving forward when traveling. Afterward, we stopped by the supermarket before returning to our Airbnb on a lovely street in Rome (Via dei Coronari) near Castel Sant'Angelo. We turned on the heating, and after enjoying another hot tea and a sandwich, we relaxed until it was time for dinner. The city was crowded, and the weather was chilly, so spending a few hours in our apartment felt like the best option. We decided to keep dinner simple and walked over to a Chinese restaurant I know near Campo de Fiori. This restaurant is famous for its great Hot and sour soup, rice, and other dishes. I know the standard rule: for good food, don't choose a foreign restaurant, which is often true. However, I assure you, this place has fantastic food, and the soup cleared our sniffling noses! After dinner, we took a stroll, people-watched, and soaked in the vibrant atmosphere. Later, I decided to attend the Holy Thursday service at my favorite church in Rome, Chiesa Nuova. Chiesa Nuova is my favorite church because the priests are young and dynamic, and there's a lot of participation from people of all ages, creating a strong sense of community. I found the service moving, especially the involvement of scouts of all ages who had roles to play during the ceremony, resembling a color guard. During the service, I reflected on the entire Passion narrative, from the Garden of Gethsemane to the Praetorium of Pontius Pilate and finally to Golgotha. When I returned to our apartment, I found myself immersed in the mysteries of Holy Week. Step 6: Friday at the Capitoline and the Vatican We planned to attend the Good Friday service at the Vatican at 5 PM, thanks to a friend in Rome who secured us tickets. Having the morning free, we decided to visit the Capitoline Museum. As a history lover and a former high school history teacher for 25 years, I was excited to head to the Capitoline Museum for what was likely the 8th or 9th time. My partner had never been there, so I was eager to share the experience with him. What I appreciate about the Capitoline is its manageable size. Unlike larger museums such as the Louvre or the Prado—which can leave you feeling exhausted after trying to take in so much—the Capitoline's collection of Roman art is just enough to digest comfortably. The building itself is fascinating, and the art is impressively displayed. My favorite feature is the large central hall with the bronze statue of Marcus Aurelius on horseback. After exploring the museum, we strolled back toward our hotel, grabbing food along the way, and enjoyed a few hours of downtime before heading to the Vatican. "How long will the service last?" my partner asked on the way. "Probably a little over two hours," I replied. "TWO HOURS?" he exclaimed. "What do you expect? It's the Vatican," was my curt response. One important thing to know about attending papal ceremonies is that they are lengthy; they're manageable if you're prepared for that. They are also rich in tradition, music, and symbolism, excellently choreographed, and deeply spiritual if you choose to engage with them. The chanting struck me most about the Good Friday service at the Vatican. There is a haunting and melancholic chant used only on Good Friday when the Gospel is sung. It's hard to describe, but as I followed along with the English translation in my booklet, vivid images danced in my imagination. Our tickets allowed us to sit near the choir, which placed us at the front of the crowd but behind the altar area. Fortunately, a journalist in front of us was live-streaming the ceremony on YouTube, so when we couldn't see what was happening at the altar, we followed along on her screen. At one point, even I felt the ceremony dragging on. I looked around at the 8-foot-high letters lining the ceiling and dome, the side altars, the people, and the gilded chair in the back. I noticed four teenage boys behind us making paper airplanes from their entrance tickets. I chuckled as it reminded me of my days in the classroom. After the service concluded, we made our way out of the basilica and toward our lodging. My partner had struck up a friendship with a couple he met in Cortona, who were visiting from Mississippi. He encouraged them to expand their travel plans while they were in Italy. Later that morning, in Cortona, he introduced them to me. As we walked across the bridge over the Tiber toward our apartment after the Vatican services, my partner suddenly spotted the couple from Cortona standing right before us. "With all the thousands of people in Rome this weekend," he noted, "we happen to be crossing the same bridge at the same moment!" We were all astonished. We stopped to chat and swap travel stories. "I'm not Catholic," one of them said, "but when I walked through the 'Holy Door,' I felt something like a huge hug. I was almost in tears." Her husband explained how they had hopped on a train to experience Rome. "We have to run for dinner," they said, and we all shook hands, still in disbelief. We intended to attend the Way of the Cross at the Colosseum that evening, my favorite Holy Week service in Rome. However, after the service ended and we walked home, grabbed food, and sat down to eat at our apartment, we realized we only had 30 minutes to get to the Colosseum from the other side of town. I wanted to go, but I decided to pace myself, finish dinner, and then decide. Considering various factors, including my aching feet and the remnants of a cold, we ultimately decided to forgo the Colosseum and watch part of it on YouTube while enjoying a more relaxing evening. The lesson I took from this experience is that sometimes, when I travel, I need to let go of my plans to maintain a positive experience and be present in the moment. The second lesson is that travel creates magical experiences, like the one we had on that bridge. Step 7: Saturday at the catacombs I hadn't visited the Catacombs in decades, and my partner had never seen them. I did some online research to find the "best" catacomb to see, and "San Callisto" came highly recommended by most visitors, likely because it contains the tombs of the first popes and that of St. Cecilia. Since we were unsure about the bus routes, we decided to take a taxi, which cost us about 20 euros. Once we arrived, we realized that the buses were relatively easy to navigate, so we took one back. The area of the catacombs is located on the Via Appia, in a beautiful region surrounded by fields and olive trees. It felt like we had stepped into another world, just 20 minutes away from the historical center of Rome. Our English-speaking group included a wide variety of people, but the largest group caught my eye; they seemed to be members of a prep school for girls, with a leader who occasionally tried to guide the conversation of our archaeologist/guide instead of simply listening. However, I pushed that thought aside and focused on the tour. Anyone interested in archaeology shouldn't miss the catacombs. The corridors lined with tombs, the centuries-old graffiti scratched into the walls, and the painted mausoleums all created a sense of being in a time machine, transporting us back to the 2nd and 3rd centuries. The tour lasted about an hour, and by the end, we were hungry. But first, we wanted to see the chariot tracks left on the exposed parts of the Via Appia Antica. When we asked a kind-looking lady driving a tourist shuttle, she told us it was "up there, about a 5-minute walk." In reality, it was closer to a 15-minute walk. Still, it was interesting to see the buildings along the way, walk past the tomb of Caecilia Metella, and finally reach the original stones of the Via Appia, where the tracks were clearly visible. Nearby, we found a charming family-run restaurant with great outdoor seating and a fantastic atmosphere. We ordered hamburgers but quickly remembered why it's usually wise to avoid ordering a hamburger while traveling in another country. "This isn't about the food; it's about the experience," my partner said, and he was right. After leaving the restaurant, we hopped on a bus in the wrong direction, got off, and boarded the correct one. Once back in Rome, we wandered through the city towards our apartment, reflecting on our morning at the catacombs. Step 8: Easter Sunday and the Surprise of Pope Francis My friend in Rome got us excellent tickets for the Sunday Easter mass. We sat behind the altar next to the choir. We noticed several choirs and an orchestra, which we could hear but not see. The weather was sunny, the atmosphere joyful, and the ceremonies were meaningful. We could walk up to the railing and get a close view of the altar area while looking out at the ever-increasing crowds in the piazza. After the service, Pope Francis came out on the balcony. It was difficult to see him clearly as he was seated in his wheelchair. However, we listened to his speech, which was read by an assistant. He spoke about war and peace, love and hate, meaning and emptiness. I was particularly moved when he addressed the suffering in Gaza. After the speech, Pope Francis gave a blessing. Although his voice was weak, all reports indicated that he was recovering. Then, it was over. I felt happy and grateful to be there, as did my partner. We decided to dodge the crowd and leave before everyone else. We hurried down the steps and were about to exit the piazza when I spotted a bathroom. "Posso?" I asked the strict guard, meaning "Can I?" I went down the long corridor to the restroom, and when I returned, I saw an announcement on the jumbotrons: "Pope Francis will be descending shortly." Suddenly, a guard motioned for us to step behind a barrier with about eight other people to wait for the Pope. Then, it happened. In an open-air jeep, the Pope came from the side of St. Peter's. The next thing we knew, he was just four feet away. We were amazed and couldn't believe our luck. "If we had left a minute earlier, we wouldn't have seen this!" my partner exclaimed. We waited as the Pope was driven around the piazza. A few minutes later, as he returned to the area from which he had come, he was in front of us again. I took a video, wanting to capture the moment. Looking back, I wish I had kept the camera in my pocket and just looked at him, waved, and enjoyed the moment instead of only filming. But I was close to him, and he was close to me, and that was enough. Step 9: The return and hearing the sad news We returned to our apartment, packed our bags, and prepared for our trip back to Tuscany. The next morning, we grabbed a coffee, loaded our bags, and set off for Tuscany around 9 AM. I asked my partner, "Do you want to cook tonight?" He replied, "Nope. Why don't we stop at our favorite breakfast place? They serve lunch, too. We can get food and have it for lunch and dinner." It took us about three hours to reach our destination, and we arrived at our favorite breakfast café around noon. "Buon giorno!" one of the women who worked there greeted us. After placing our order, we turned to see the owner, our friend, coming to greet us. "I saw on your Facebook page that you got close to Pope Francis yesterday," she began. We nodded and smiled in response. "It's so sad that he died today." My mouth dropped open in shock. "You're kidding, right? This is a bad joke, isn't it?" I asked, but she shook her head. I quickly fumbled for my phone and opened the news app. "Pope Francis passed away..." I turned to my partner. "Pope Francis is dead!" I can't fully express the emotion I felt at that moment—like a weight had dropped onto my heart and settled there. He was one of my heroes, someone who showed me that there is room in the church even for someone like me; in fact, there is room for everyone. "I can't talk about this," our friend, the owner, said as she backed away. We sank into two chairs, overwhelmed. "Yesterday, we were so happy to be close to him; today, he is gone. How is that possible?" I asked. We sat in silence, struggling to comprehend the joy of yesterday and the devastation of today. Easter in Rome was unlike any Easter we have ever experienced or will ever experience again. Even amidst the sadness, I felt grateful for it. As soon as the date of his funeral was announced, we rushed online and booked a place near the Vatican. After it occurs, I will write another blog post about what happened, how it felt, and whether it provided us the necessary closure. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

Deciding to Sell our Home in Tuscany PART 138: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems that are worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. Let's explore whether we should sell our home in Tuscany this week. Step 2: Last year, when we purchased our home in Arcidosso, Tuscany, we established our roots in the Monte Amiata area, which we truly love. The appeal of this region lies not only in its rich historical and cultural sights, such as Florence, Pienza, Montepulciano, and the Val d'Orcia, but also in the numerous opportunities for outdoor activities and mountain sports, including hiking, skiing, and mountain biking. Given our desire to stay active in Italy, this area is an ideal choice for us. We remain committed to making this beautiful part of Tuscany our home. Step 3: Evolving Decision. We purchased a 16th-century house in the medieval center of Arcidosso. The house is full of character, featuring wood-beamed ceilings, terrazzo flooring, and stone walls. Our first step was to preserve the house's charm while upgrading it to a level that we Californians would feel comfortable in. It is now a two-bedroom, two-bathroom home with modern amenities and a design that blends Tuscan and mid-century modern styles. We lived in the house during the renovation process, which was challenging. (If you have ever experienced a renovation, you know what I mean: breathing in dust, waiting for your kitchen to be installed, and waiting for the replacement shower, among other inconveniences.) When we were about 80% finished with the renovation, my partner asked me, "What do you think about putting this house up for sale and taking on a bigger project? Now that we understand how renovating a property in Italy works, we could approach another one more efficiently." My initial response was a firm, "No way!" I was exhausted from the renovations. However, my perspective has shifted now that months have passed and the house is complete. At first, I thought, "Well, maybe," as a potential step forward. After some more time, I said, "We can put it on the market and see what happens. But since we are both happy here, I'm fine if it doesn't sell." Given everything we've learned during this renovation, we are now ready to put the house on the market as we consider a larger renovation project in our area. We have established relationships with our contractors, chosen an architect, and identified where to source our materials, which makes us feel prepared to tackle a more significant renovation. Step 4: What is the layout of the house? The house consists of three levels. On the street level, you'll find a spacious living area with a new kitchen, a living room, and a dining area. The upper level features two bedrooms and two bathrooms. There is also a large attic that we use for storage. Step 5: The design and what would be included. Our 16th-century house is already full of Tuscan charm, so we wanted to choose lighting and furniture that would complement it. We opted for a theme combining Tuscan, industrial, and mid-century modern styles, with moss green as the main color and wood tones upstairs. I was particularly keen on creating an open feel, so we avoided bulky furniture and instead selected modern pieces with a mid-century flair, all while ensuring they remained comfortable. This house is turnkey-ready. This way, someone moving from another country to Tuscany would only need to bring their clothes and toothbrush; everything else, including furniture, pots, and plates, is included. Why include everything? Because all the items we chose for this house align perfectly with its design theme, and we want to maintain that consistency. Step 6: What did we renovate? We hired an architect and did everything according to code. Created a new bathroom equipped with a shower, sink, toilet, and storage. Installed a washer AND dryer. Had the entire interior painted. Replaced all the lighting fixtures. Installed a new kitchen with all new appliances, including a dishwasher and induction stove. Chose a mid-century modern design, featuring a vintage-style full-size fridge and matching microwave. Replaced all windows with double-glazed glass for better insulation. Furnished the main room with mid-century modern style furniture and carpet. Upgraded the heating system. The main bedroom features a king-size bed, a hardwood bedroom set, a large flatscreen TV, and a pellet heater for additional warmth. The second bedroom features a study nook with a desk and can serve as a guest room or den. It also includes a sofabed/chaise lounge, an office area, and a large flatscreen TV. The main bathroom has been completely updated, while the second bathroom is brand new and modern. Additionally, the house's electrical capacity has been upgraded to 6 kilowatts. Step 7: What is our area like? The wonderful aspects of our area include: Arcidosso is abundant with symbols of the Knights Templar, who thrived in this area due to its position along one of the Via Francigena pilgrimage routes. Above our front door, there is an ancient and enigmatic symbol that resembles an elf-like face, welcoming visitors. Additionally, many Templar symbols can be found throughout our historic center (check out my blog about the Knights Templar in Tuscany for more information). Perched above is the Aldobrandesco fortress, a well-preserved castle dating back to 850. The fortress features a museum and hosts various cultural events. The historical center is also home to several ancient churches, including St. Leonardo, first mentioned in 1188. We have found the local people to be exceptionally warm and welcoming. We are near the beautiful Val d’Orcia. Our area has charming historic hilltop towns offering unique personalities and attractions. Step 8: Which amenities are near our house? Walking distance: Cafès, restaurants, supermarket, schools, historical churches 5-10 minute drive: Gyms, hospital, home improvement store, 4 star hotel/spa 15-20 minute drive (Mount Amiata): Ski lifts (for skiing/winter and hiking/summer), mountain bike tracks and hiking trails 30 minute drive: Bagno Vignoni hot springs, Montalcino (Brunello wine), Rocca d’Orcia An hour or less: Pienza, Montepulciano, Siena Step 9: Using our house as a base. We just returned from a road trip to France, which took us just over five hours to drive to Monaco. After arriving, we decided to continue and stayed in Nice, about a half-hour drive away. We explored France for a few days before returning to Nice and then driving home. The drive back to Arcidosso was easy, and we look forward to more road trips across Europe in the future. Step 10: Who would want this house? This house is ideal for a buyer looking to move in and start enjoying their new home immediately. No renovation projects are needed; everything has already been completed. It will appeal to those accustomed to modern amenities, including two bathrooms, a full-size refrigerator, and a washer/dryer, all while maintaining its charming Tuscan character. Our location is perfect for those who appreciate history and want to be close to the Val d'Orcia, Pienza, Siena, and other European destinations. Step 11: Where would we go? We plan to remain in our area but look for a larger property to renovate. We now have the experience to take on a bigger project and have built relationships that will help us move this project forward. (We already have a few properties in mind.) Step 12: If you're interested in learning more or know someone who is, please use the link below to contact the realtor. Here is the real estate link: https://www.ecocasaimmobiliare.it/web/immobile_dettaglio.asp?cod_annuncio=2464616&language=eng&force=1 More next time.

PART 133: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems that are worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's explore how we decided which months to live in Italy would be best for us. Step 2: Summers and winters in Puglia We began our adventure of living in Italy in Puglia. In previous blogs, I shared how this journey came about. Since we wanted to spend two to three months in Italy twice a year, the logical solution was to stay in Puglia during the summer to escape the intense heat of Palm Springs, and then return for the winter. We spent several summers in Puglia and were grateful for the experience. The beautiful beaches, local friendships, and favorite hangouts contributed to a rich life. However, during our second summer there, we struggled with the hot and humid weather, which even the beaches couldn't compensate for (We are used to the heat in Palm Springs, but it is dry heat). Our lovely rental had two room-based air conditioners, and on particularly hot muggy days, we found ourselves taking refuge in the kitchen under the air conditioning unit, avoiding the outdoors. After a few days, my partner remarked, "We didn't come to Italy to sit inside under an air conditioner!" And it was true. While we are accustomed to the hot summer weather in Palm Springs, we have learned how to manage it effectively. In California we enjoy access to a pool and jacuzzi in our community, and have central air conditioning, and access to a cool large modern community library where we can work. We also have the nearby mountains and often escape to Idyllwild, a mountain village where temperatures are considerably cooler than on the desert floor. Winter was a different experience in southern Italy. During the winter months in Puglia, many of the vibrant summer towns were deserted. While this lack of crowds was pleasing in some ways, it also made the towns feel lifeless. The damp winter weather, with its biting cold that seemed to penetrate to the bone, wasn't enjoyable for us. "I think we should rethink our strategy of coming during the summer and winter," my partner suggested. But everything changed when we moved to Tuscany. Step 3: Our first months: During the winter. We completed the purchase of our house in Tuscany in February and immediately moved in to start the renovation. How did the winter weather in Tuscany affect our stay? Simply put, by the end of our two-month winter stay, we both decided that we would prefer to avoid winter and instead visit Tuscany in the Spring and Fall. What happened? To provide some context, we are from Southern California, where cold weather typically means just a few rainy days with temperatures in the low 60s. As a result, we felt the winter weather in Tuscany more acutely than others might have. This past winter in Tuscany, we experienced chilly and rainy weather day after day. This is not a complaint; we understood we would face rainy weather when we planned our trip. We focused on navigating this challenging season to have a positive experience during our 2 ½ months in Italy. Our experience in Tuscany during the winter unfolded in three stages: 1. Excitement Initially, we were excited about purchasing our house in Italy, beginning renovations, and starting our new life in Tuscany. The chilly, rainy weather did not impact us much during that first month because we were too busy gathering renovation materials, visiting showrooms, and hunting down furniture. While it wasn't fun carrying items from our car to the front door in the rain, establishing our life in Italy energized us. 2. Weariness The second stage was weariness. This wasn't solely due to the weather; it was also because of the cold temperatures inside the house. We only had heating in the bedroom during renovations and no hot water. At one point, we were even without a kitchen. As the rainy days continued outside and the cold lingered inside, it began to wear on us. There was a moment when I said, "I just want to be back in California." I realized I was nearing my emotional breaking point, so my partner suggested I take a few days to visit Rome and escape the house project. It was a great suggestion; I managed to forget about the renovations for three days and returned feeling rejuvenated. Since we wanted to make the most of our time in Italy, we began to carve out time for exploration besides the renovation work. We visited Pienza, Montechiello, and Rocca d'Orcia and drove along the winding roads of Monte Amiata. The positive aspect of our outings was that there were few, if any, tourists wherever we went. The challenging part, however, was the rain; trudging through the streets of Pienza with umbrellas was quite different from exploring its beautiful architecture under a clear sky. After several weeks of almost nonstop rain, we decided to stop going on outings and focus solely on the house. 3. Resolution Experience can be the best teacher; I know this from my 25 years as a high school teacher, where I aimed to make history come alive for my students. Toward the end of our time in Tuscany, we reflected on our experiences, spoke with locals, and considered our options. Based on our winter experience, we resolved to return in the Spring and Fall moving forward. We make many sacrifices and spend considerable money to realize our dream of establishing a life in Italy, so visiting during better weather and when the tourist season is winding down makes sense. Thus, our future visits to Italy would consist of 2-3 months in the Spring and 2-3 months in the Fall. Step 3: Our second 3 months: The Fall We repeatedly heard the phrase, "Come to Tuscany in the Fall. The weather is beautiful, and the tourists are gone!" We found this statement to be partially true. September can a popular month in parts of Italy, which I was aware of when we booked our flights. I flew to Rome a few weeks before my partner to prepare for my book presentation (as mentioned in a previous blog) and to take care of other business. Aside from a few isolated thunderstorms, I found the September weather in Rome to be warm but not hot, and in the evenings, it was a bit chilly but not cold. However, the city was crowded. My partner arrived in mid-September, and we drove to our place in Tuscany. "Wow," what a beautiful day!" I exclaimed as we pulled into the historical center of our town. It was true: the sky was clear, the temperature was in the 70s, and the humidity was low. There were no tourists in our area at all. This ideal weather lasted about 10 days before it started raining almost daily. When we asked the local residents about the weather, we frequently heard comments like: "This weather is not normal!" and," "Last year, I was swimming at the end of October." Another local said, "Tuscany always has beautiful weather in the Fall, but that's not the case anymore. Everything has changed." We experienced weeks of cloudy skies, cool weather, and almost daily rain. While climate change may seem like a distant scientific concept to some, it is being felt acutely in other parts of the world, including Europe. We faced unusually scorching summers in Puglia, and in Tuscany, the rainy season has shifted to early Fall. I recently wrote a blog about turning rainy days into positive opportunities. By focusing on activities we enjoy, slowing down our pace, and engaging in pursuits we might usually overlook during sunny weather, we've discovered that rainy days in the Fall, with their mild temperatures, no longer feel like setbacks as they once did in winter. Living in Italy in the Fall is a wonderful decision and a bit of rain won't stop us from enjoying it! Step 4: The Spring: Expectations Today, we encountered two contradictory statements about the weather in our area during the Spring. This morning, a lady from our gym in Tuscany informed us that it tends to be rainy until mid-June. In contrast, our local friend claimed that the Spring weather in Tuscany is terrific. Perhaps the truth lies somewhere in between? My expectations for Spring in Tuscany include lush green hills, wildflowers, fewer tourists, and gentle sunlight. Will my expectations be met? I look forward to sharing my experiences in this Spring's future blog post. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 137: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's explore how we balance our lives between Palm Springs and Tuscany. Step 2: Our life in Palm Springs When I retired from teaching two years ago, my partner and I moved to the Palm Springs area. We had purchased a home a few years earlier, and we were eager to start building our life in the desert. Since relocating from Los Angeles to Palm Springs, we have focused on developing our friendships, completing renovation work on the house, and learning how to budget for two lives: one in California and another in Italy. I've also been focussing more on my writing. In Palm Springs, compared to Italy, I find it easier to organize my time, accomplish the goals I set, and maintain my healthy routines. My typical weekday routine involves starting the day at the gym, heading to the local library to research a book or work on my blog, engaging in various local activities afterwards, and enjoying dinner at home or with friends in the evening. I end my day with a long bike ride after dinner. Weekends are more fluid, but always end with my nightly hourlong bike ride. I find that I am more productive when we are back in California, especially with my writing. Producing a weekly blog requires time, as does writing and publishing a book, such as my recently released work titled "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat." I am now researching and writing a historical novel based in ancient Parthia and Judea. I experience a deep sense of satisfaction when I achieve my goals, and living in California makes this process easier for me. I also set fitness goals at the gym, as well as the aforementioned long nightly bike ride for cardio after dinner. Keeping these goals in front of me also is easier when I am in California. Step 3: Our Life in Italy Our life in Italy has gone through various stages: first as visitors, then as short-term renters in Puglia, followed by long-term renters, and now as homeowners in Tuscany. Throughout all these stages, one experience that has remained constant is spontaneity. Transitioning from a planned life in Palm Springs to being open to spontaneously meeting friends for dinner, attending local festivals, or jumping in the car to explore new areas or historical monuments has been a learning process for me. Embracing spontaneity in Italy has broadened my horizons and revealed my sometimes over attachment to routine, which I've had to consciously work to overcome while in Italy. Living in Italy is an adventure. From visiting new places to embarking on international road trips, meeting expats, or accepting last-minute invitations, life here feels "bigger" than it did before. The adventurous aspect of life provides me with plenty to write about, even though I often struggle to find the time to organize my thoughts and jot them down until I return to California. Step 4: Balancing California and Italy We live in two places: California and Italy. We have friends, homes, and favorite activities in both locations. However, the challenge is finding a way to balance our lives in these two countries so that it feels like a single, harmonious life rather than two separate ones. Step 5: Bridging life in Two Places We have taken several steps to balance our lives in two countries: 1. We focus on cultivating friendships in both places, regardless of whether we are physically present. 2. I have let go of the struggle to maintain consistent writing while in Italy. Embracing a more spontaneous approach has opened my horizons, allowing me to focus on regular writing when we are back in California and not worry about it while in Italy. 3. Establishing healthy routines in both countries provides us with a sense of consistency. We start our day at the gym, followed by coffee, which is our routine in both locations. We also prioritize a healthy diet, engage in physical activities like hiking, and make time to pursue our interests—nature in California and culture and history in Italy. We now view our life in two places as complementary rather than divided. Our months in Palm Springs tend to be more routine and goal oriented, whereas in Italy, we embrace a more spontaneous lifestyle. This combination works well for us. Insights: In my first blog post, I reflected on the fact that we don't have everything figured out yet, but we are willing to take the leap, start a life in Italy, and figure it out along the way. Life is short, we thought, and we can either pursue this dream or just keep talking about it. As we learn to balance our lives between Italy and California, it's becoming clear that the challenges of living in both places are an adventure we wouldn't trade for anything. More next time. SECOND EDITION NOW ON SALE FOR $2.99! "She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome." https://a.co/d/4Bx0Eh3 . Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 79: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we are taking and what we are learning along the way. We are loving every minute of it, and what was once a dream is now our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall and then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: In a previous blog post, I discussed our decision to move to Tuscany from Puglia. I also wrote a blog about our decision to buy rather than continue to rent. Buying a place in Italy is a big decision, but the whole process was made so easy by the people we met and the realtor in Tuscany who went the extra mile. Step 2: Realtor: what were we looking for? Responsiveness When we decided to explore the Monte Amiata region of Tuscany for a possible move, we decided to continue renting, just as we did in Puglia. "But it never hurts to look at what is on the market in our price range," I told my partner. Since we only had four days to explore the area, I contacted various realtors to set up a few house showings. Unlike the US, there isn't an MLS, in which one realtor can easily show a home for sale that is represented by another company. So I used Casa.it , which groups houses for sale on one website, to start our search. After we found six or seven homes for sale we were interested in seeing, we reached out to the various realtors representing them. One realtor stood out because of his responsiveness. He replied to my email immediately and showed a great willingness to help. The other realtor offices I contacted could have been more responsive and required multiple emails and phone calls to finally talk with someone. One office, in particular, showed no genuine interest but had some interesting homes. Professionality and knowledge base We were still determining whether we were ready to purchase a property in Italy and were equally uncertain about how it all worked. We shared these concerns when we traveled to Tuscany and met our most responsive realtor. He reassured us that he could find us a rental property if we decided not to buy, and he also gave us some background on his company, which stands out from the others due to its experience, professionalism, and knowledge base. We found that some realtors do more research than others on a property they represent. Questions like: is the property up to code? Were any changes or additions made to the property without the required paperwork? What is the history of the house? Fortunately, the real estate agent in Tuscany that was the most responsive also had the greatest knowledge base, and each property was researched and prescreened so that there would be no surprise. Before even seeing a property, questions such as codes, additions, and history were already answered. Working with foreigners (experience, language, and culture) Nonresidents who purchase a property in Italy have particular needs. Besides the language, other questions arise, such as how to pay energy and other bills, open an Italian bank account, wire money for a down payment, or complete a home purchase. I speak Italian, but my partner does not, and I wanted him to be part of the negotiations. We found a real estate office that has experience working with expats and foreigners. The realtors speak English and know how to navigate the Italian system to help set up a bank account, automatic energy payments, and other everyday needs in purchasing and maintaining a home in Italy. Particular needs and work to be done When we visited the Monte Amiata area of Tuscany and visited some of the homes for sale, we were still unconvinced about buying a house. Renting was a more comfortable option. Until we found "the one." We were awestruck when we stepped into a home for sale during our visit to the area. We saw some interesting homes that needed work in our price range, but this one was perfect. Historical, updated, and in the medieval center of town. Could this be the one? There was one problem with this home, however: it had only one bathroom. Could we add a bathroom? And how much would it cost? The extra mile Our realtor called his office staff and scheduled a meeting for the following day. They also took measurements of the property to see if creating a second bathroom within one of the bedrooms would be possible. The next day, we discovered that the realty office had a designer on staff who prepared a 3-D mock-up of the new bathroom within the measurements provided. Besides design, she is an expert in local codes and regulations and provided us with the bathroom plan and assurance that a second bathroom was possible. "How much do we need to pay for her service?" we asked. "Nothing" was the response. "It is a service that we provide to our clients." We made the offer, the owners accepted it, and now we are on our way to owning a home in Tuscany. "But wait!" I said. "Who will we get to do the work? How do we get an estimate?" "I have many local contacts who do quality work at a fair price; I will take care of that for you," our realtor said. Our 90 days in Italy were up, and we had to fly back to the US. But, true to his word, our realtor worked with his contacts to get us several estimates on creating the bathroom and doing some smaller jobs. We received a very reasonable estimate, confirmed our understanding on a Zoom call, and agreed to start the work right after we took possession of the house. Step 3: What we found. When the offer on the house was accepted, our realtor, his colleagues, and other friends invited us out on the town to celebrate. We met at a cute outdoor cafe in Abadia, where spouses and kids joined us. We started by looking for a house and, along with that, we found friendship. Our realtor is Sandro Marucci at Agente Immobiliare Sostenibile in Abbadia San Salvatore (SI): https://www.ecocasaimmobiliare.it/web/ Insights. "I am surprised at how easy this process was," my partner said. "It feels like it was meant to be! And that is because the people over at Remax made it so smooth. Plus, I can see us becoming friends!" I want to think that buying a house in Tuscany is a "meant to be." In any case, I am grateful for it and for the amazing people and help from Remax in Abbadia San Salvatore (SI). More next time. Now on sale for $2.99: My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRKMKPWF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_X2WRQ3PTG2ZDD7AVF6GH And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .

PART 135: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's explore St. John Lateran and how I was able to touch history. Step 2: As I write this, I am currently in Rome and have decided to do something different. I hopped on the #87 bus and rode over to St. John Lateran to see what it is all about. Step 3: The area Before and after my visit to the Basilica, I took some time to explore the surrounding area. I was struck by how residential the San Giovanni zone is, especially the stretch from the Lateran to the nearby Santa Croce basilica. Along this route is a park filled with families, children playing, and dogs running. It was a vibrant, refreshing space where locals enjoy their daily lives, and I noticed that tourists seemed to be in the minority. Step 4: My history I lived in Rome during the 1980s while pursuing my university studies, and for several years, I resided near the Lateran, which I saw every day. Most days, I would take a 45-minute walk to school, allowing me to clear my head and enjoy the beauty of Rome. However, it was a difficult time in my life as I searched for answers within the context of seminary life. As a result, my memories of St. John Lateran are intertwined with the sadness of that period. However, I wanted to experience this remarkable piece of history in a new light. I was eager to return, leave the past behind, and embrace the Basilica's history as something fresh and new. Step 5: Lateran History: Why this is an incredible place to visit The Basilica of Saint John Lateran was built in the fourth century on the Horti Laterani, an ancient estate that belonged to the Lateran family. This land was confiscated during the reign of Emperor Nero. The estate and the palace later came into Emperor Constantine's possession after he married Fausta, the daughter of former Emperor Maximian, in 307 AD. Tradition holds that Constantine commissioned the construction of the Basilica as a gesture of gratitude following his victory at the Battle of Milvian Bridge in 312 AD. The Basilica was consecrated in 324 AD by Pope Sylvester I, who dedicated it to Christ the Savior. The present day St. John Lateran features five large naves separated by rows of massive columns. In the apse, a stunning golden mosaic dates from the 4th to the 6th centuries (it has been restored several times since). The central nave, which was entirely redesigned by Borromini to conceal the original columns, contains niches with statues of saints and apostles. Above these niches, paintings inspired by the New and Old Testaments reflect those from the Imperial era. St. John Lateran Basilica in Rome is recognized as the mother church of all Catholic churches in the Western world. Inscribed on the church facade are the Latin words "omnium urbis et orbis ecclesiarum mater et caput," which translates to "The mother and head of all the churches of the city and of the world." The church houses some fascinating historical and legendary objects, as described below. Step 6: Touching History One of the most remarkable features of St. John Lateran is actually located outside the church. If you can visit, take a moment to stand in front of the massive bronze doors and touch them. These doors are the very same ones that once adorned the Senate House in the Roman Forum. Consider who may have touched them 2,000 years ago—who crafted and passed by them. Experience the weight of history. Step 7: Myths, Legends, and cool stories Above the Papal Altar in this church are two busts representing St. Peter and St. Paul. According to tradition, these busts contain the skulls, or parts of the skulls, of the two apostles. Beneath the Papal Altar lies a wooden table, said to be the one on which St. Peter celebrated Mass. Above a side chapel, to the left of the main altar, there is another ancient piece of wood. If you look up behind a bronze relief depicting the Last Supper, you will find what tradition holds as a part of the table used during the Last Supper. I cannot say whether these stories are based on history, myth, or legend. However, these and other objects within the Basilica tell tales that bring the place to life and make it a very cool place to visit. Step 8: The Mosaics in the Apse The mosaic illustrates the Crucifixion, featuring Christ on the cross with Mary and John the Baptist. Surrounding saints hold scrolls affirming Christ's divinity, while streams of water symbolize spiritual thirst and connect to Ezekiel's vision of healing waters. This artwork conveys that Christ's cross fulfills Ezekiel's promise of salvation, restoring nature to God's grace and echoing the four rivers of Eden. Below, the Tree of Life and the New Jerusalem reinforce this theme. On the left, figures include St. Paul, St. Peter, St. Francis, and Pope Nicholas IV; on the right, St. John the Baptist, St. Anthony, St. John the Evangelist, and St. Andrew. The scrolls they hold feature scriptural references that highlight Christ's role. This mosaic, which includes elements from the 4th to 6th centuries, was repeatedly restored and added to, starting in the 13th century. Step 9: What this visit meant to me Yesterday's visit to the Lateran helped me replace old memories with new ones. Rather than a symbol of a sad period in my life, the Basilica became a place where I could touch history (the bronze doors), walk on a 15th-century floor, gaze at a piece of wood said to be from the Last Supper, wander behind the altar to see the historical apse mosaics, and sit on one of the many chairs to let the place speak to me. I now have a new appreciation and a sense of belonging to a great history along with the Lateran Basilica. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 134: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's stay closer to home and explore our heating challenge in Tuscany. Step 2: We bought a house in Tuscany—yay! We discovered the house last summer, made an offer, and finalized the sale in February 2024 when we returned to the area. The house had a heating system that included two wood pellet furnaces: one in the kitchen/living room downstairs and the other in the bedroom upstairs. Before closing, we requested the seller remove the downstairs furnace to create more space. Fast forward to February. Step 3: "It's fuc—ing freezing" I exclaimed as we entered our newly purchased house. Being from Southern California, we weren't accustomed to such a drastic drop in temperature. "Let's go buy some pellets," I suggested. Without wasting any time, we rushed to the grocery store to stock up on fuel for the furnace. Step 4: Pellet heating A pellet stove is a heating source similar to a wood-burning stove; however, instead of using wood for fuel, pellet stoves burn renewable biomass fuel called pellets, made from wood chips and sawdust. Pellets are poured into a fuel hopper and are fed into the combustion chamber by an electric auger. This auger supplies pellets to the burn pot at a rate that maintains the temperature you set. As a result, the fire can burn intensely, modulate to a lower setting, or even go out and reignite automatically based on the current room temperature compared to the desired temperature. Due to the density of the pellets, pellet stoves produce minimal ash and are said to emit fewer greenhouse gases than other types of stoves. Italy is a leading European consumer of wood pellets, using approximately 3 million metric tons per year, with domestic consumption accounting for 96 percent of this total. Despite being considered a more environmentally friendly way to heat a home, pellet stoves have some drawbacks. They emit pollution in the form of fine dust and particles. While these stoves are cleaner than traditional wood stoves, the dust they emit is ultra-fine and can be easily inhaled, posing risks for vulnerable populations. In fact, pellet stoves are known to produce 15 times more particulate matter than oil heating systems and emit up to 1800 times more than gas heating sources. Infants and individuals with bronchitis, asthma, or other lung conditions are among the populations at the highest risk of exposure to these particles. Step 5: Our experience with pellet heating It took us a few days to figure out how to work the pellet furnace, but once we did, the bedrooms became toasty within just a few minutes. Over the next few days, we learned several important things about using a pellet furnace: 1. We need to vacuum out the debris every day (at least every other day) using a dedicated small shop vac. 2. We have to regularly bring large bags of pellets to the house. They can also be delivered, but we prefer to carry them from the car. 3. The quality of the pellets affects how much debris is left behind and, consequently, the air quality in our home. So it’s better to avoid the cheapest pellets. 4. When many people in the area are burning pellets, the air can feel thick and heavy. 5. One pellet heater is not sufficient to heat the downstairs, or the bathrooms, in our house. Step 6: The rest of our house After heating our bedrooms with our pellet furnace, we turned our attention to the bathrooms and the main room downstairs, all of which were really cold for two Californians. We thought that maybe turning the pellet heater up to full would heat all of the house, but that was incorrect. We needed to find long-term solutions for keeping the entire house warm. Step 7: Initial solutions We had to think quickly since we were freezing the day we took possession of the house. First, we bought some electric blankets to warm up the bed at night and wrap ourselves in them while working at the desk, since we didn’t know how to work the pellet heater yet (it took us a few days to figure it out). Next, we went to our local hardware store and purchased a space heater with a fan and another type that functioned like a radiator. We plugged it all in. Then the electricity shut off. It kept shutting off repeatedly. In a typical Italian household, the normal electricity usage is 3 kilowatts, which was what we were allotted when we took on the house. In Puglia, 3 kilowatts was always sufficient. However, this situation was different because there are no gas lines installed inside the house, so everything in the house is powered by electricity. We asked our realtor, who is always ready to assist us, "Can we increase our electricity allotment to 6 kilowatts? What kind of documentation do we need to provide?" He replied, "No problem, I will take care of it." The switch took about 10 days to take effect, so we had to be cautious and turn off everything except the lights when using a space heater. Once we received our 6-kilowatt allotment, we could keep the kitchen and bedrooms warm, but not much else. The bathrooms felt like walk-in refrigerators. Despite the challenges, we made the house livable while we worked on long-term solutions. We realized that relying on space heaters for an extended period would make our electric bill unmanageable, and they are also inefficient heating options that waste energy. Step 8: Heating alternatives and our solutions We spoke with our contractor about our desire to heat the rest of the house and inquired about running a pipe from our current pellet stove to the other rooms. "I can do that," he replied, "but I have another solution that I want you to consider." Our contractor is skilled in various areas, including building houses, plumbing, tiling, heating, and air conditioning. He invited us to a rental unit in Santa Fiora that he had created, where he showed us large flat stones mounted on the wall. "Feel them," he said. They were warm to the touch but not burning. "This is how I heat this place. It's a newer technology in Italy that consumes very little electricity. Instead of expanding your pellet system, I want you to consider this option." It was an intriguing idea we are currently evaluating for the future. We also found some other interesting heating alternatives. One option features radiant heat emanating from a metal surface mounted on the wall, while another is an electric fan heater that can also be mounted above a door or window. Both use more wattage than the stone slabs but not as much as the space heaters available at hardware stores. But we decided that these would not be the solution for us. For the two bathrooms, we discovered that low-wattage electric towel racks provide enough heat for the entire room. One of the towel racks even has a small built-in extra heater for frigid days. Problem solved! The bathrooms are now toasty warm. Our kitchen has a large fireplace, which is beautiful but allows all the heat to escape up the chimney. We sealed off the chimney and considered installing a pellet heater inside the fireplace. However, due to its height, it would require a custom design, which would get complicated. I wanted to enjoy the cozy atmosphere of a fire without the hassle of maintenance. Gas logs weren't an option since we don't have gas lines. Instead, I discovered electric logs from Germany that create the illusion of flames and also produce heat. They feature a low-wattage setting that keeps the room comfortably warm while using little energy. We ordered the logs, plugged them in, and I absolutely love them. Step 9: Where we are at now Only a few days before we had to return to California, our heating system was in place. A pellet heater upstairs, combined with low wattage wall mounted units in the bathrooms, keep all the upstairs warm. The comfortable atmosphere of the electric hearth keeps the downstairs nice and warm also. Now that we are spending Spring and Fall in Italy, the house will always be comfortably warm on chilly days. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 43: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the Summer and then back again in the winter following the 90/180 guidelines. Step 1: Having a car in Puglia is essential. We use it for errands and to visit incredible places and towns around Lecce. To keep in budget, we are renting a used car for the months we are living in Puglia. In February, our local Puglian friends suggested we take a more extended road trip to Amalfi from Lecce, Puglia. At first, we hesitated because of having other things on our plate, but our local friends insisted that March would be an ideal time before the tourists start arriving in April. Plus, our car was older and we weren’t sure about such a long drive. Step 2: The how Reliable vehicle. It is a five-hour drive from our place in Puglia to the town of Amalfi, and part of the draw of this coast is the harrowing drive on its rocky cliffs. Our used car has been reliable until now, but sometimes it just wants to stay in 3rd gear. Not a big deal on flat roads, but it could be an issue on the Amalfi coast. So to be sure, we rented a new car for our 4-day road trip. Where to say. To save money, we initially intended to stay outside the immediate Amalfi coast area, following the recommendation of a local friend. He recommended a hotel that was a good deal in the past; I made a reservation, but the prices were higher than I expected. The next day our friend contacted me with second thoughts. "Rather than staying in Cava dei Tirreni, where I first recommended, I now think it is better to stay on the Amalfi coast, perhaps in Amalfi. That way, you are in the middle of everything. And since it is the off-season, the price should be low." He was 100% correct. We found a great Airbnb in the middle of Amalfi for less than the hotel we had located outside the area. Parking. "There is no parking in Amalfi, so you must think of this before you go!" our Puglian mother hens urged us. Through our AirBnB host, we eventually found parking for 30 euros a night; not cheap, but a necessary step. When to go. Our local Puglian friends keep telling us to avoid the summer tourist months if we go to the Amalfi coast. "You will sit on the road and never move!" one said. "They restrict driving according to your license plate!" said another. "Go now or wait until next winter or spring!" said a 3rd. So following local advice, we took the plunge and went. Amalfi Our five-hour drive went quickly; once we arrived in the area, few cars were on the Amalfi coast road. Google maps directed us to Amalfi, but we bypassed the town since we needed help to get to our parking structure. The only road we could find into the town was full of pedestrians, with the cathedral to the right and the fountain to the left. "We can't bring our car in there," my partner said as we pulled aside and rechecked Google Maps. "Plus, it says 'ZTL' zone; we will get fined!" So we called our Airbnb host, who told us yes, that is the way in and to not worry about the fine; the garage would take care of it. So we pulled the car into the main piazza and inched our way through the pedestrians to the upper town, where the garages were located. Everybody was staring at us as if we were doing something wrong, but later our host confirmed that pedestrians and cars share the same road into the heart of the town. That was our first introduction to Amalfi. But once we parked, settled, and explored, we found a beautiful but highly touristy city. It is not a town I would want to stay in all day, but it makes an excellent base. The coast As stated above, our friends warned us about the traffic on the Amalfi coast during the summer months, so going in March was a great decision. The weather was already warming up, the sun was out, and we were the ONLY car on the coastal road in some areas! Driving along the coast, viewing the beautiful towns and panoramas was a highlight of our trip. The next day we parked along the coast some distance from Positano and walked down to the town; this was rewarding since we could pause, explore, enjoy the views, and discover hidden paths. Positano What I am going to say below is only our experience, so let me preface these comments with that fact. I found Positano more beautiful from a distance than from inside the city. Positano looks like a dream from the coastal road, nestled up the hillside on the sea. But once inside the town, I found it highly touristy, full of shops of items that I would never want to buy. We walked up and down the streets, wondering if we were missing something. We went to see the cathedral and then explored smaller streets; we passed shop after shop, selling a lot of ceramics, overpriced clothing, and cheesy artwork. We walked down to the beach; it was not warm enough to swim or sunbathe, but the water was beautiful. I know people who come to Positano for extended periods. They may love lying on the beach all day or staying in a pool; others may use it as a base. But for me, after two or three hours of exploring Positano, I was done. Grateful but done. The hikes We wanted to go to Ravello from Amalfi, and I was trying to figure out parking. "What do you think if we hiked there?" my partner asked. I got my Google Maps, and we calculated how doable it was. We were able to find a path that didn't take us on a busy road. About 10 minutes after we started, we passed some donkeys being led up the path, carrying supplies. We then bumped into a kind man, Gino, who worked at our garage. We told him where we were headed, and he suggested we go to the left rather than the right. "You will see a beautiful waterfall, pass an interesting organic restaurant run by farmers, and see incredible views." That was enough for us. This hike ended up being the highlight of our trip, and we resolved that our next Amalfi coast trip would be more hike-centered. As we made our way up the path to the first town, Portone, we passed a small cafe where the proprietor invited us in. "Would you like some freshly squeezed lemon and orange juice from my orchard?" he asked. A minute later, we sat at a table with ripening lemons hanging over our heads and a view of the sea to our left. Before I left, I told him this was a moment I would never forget. He thanked me and stuffed two huge lemons in my hand. We wandered through Villa Rufolo, which is impressive and well-known, and then walked further on to Villa Cimbrone, which I liked even better! The views from Ravello were terrific and were well worth the effort. I will remember the scene of school kids playing soccer in the town piazza, in front of views that words fail to capture. I think next time we go, we will make Ravello our base. Step 4: The experience The good The drive along the Amalfi coast off-season is fantastic, the panoramas are incredible, and the atmosphere is magical. Our favorite experiences included hiking to Ravello and seeing Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone. Exploring the Amalfi coast on foot was very fulfilling, and next time we go, we will hike the "path of the gods." The not so good Tourist towns: The tourist towns of Amalfi and Positano are great for a short visit, strolling through the town, going to the beach, or even using them as a base to see other things. But they are very touristy, full of shops with overpriced stuff I would never buy, so I was done with them after a few hours. Restaurants: These were probably isolated experiences, but we went to three restaurants in two days in the Amalfi area. At all three, we were overcharged. They were small amounts, but it kept happening. At the first one where we ate dinner, in Amalfi, we were charged for two coffees we did not order; we noticed it after we left. We figured it was an oversight and let it go. At the second, in Ravello, we were charged 36 euros for two lasagnas; when I inquired, the waitress said, "We gave you bigger slices." I didn't believe it, but I didn't make a fuss. At the third, in Positano, we were determined not to let it happen again. We checked the prices and ordered two pizzas. When the bill came, the price was higher than on the menu, so we pointed it out to the waiter. "Oh, they didn't update the price on my phone!" he explained. No, we didn't believe that one either. I don't know how common this is, but we started buying food at supermarkets to avoid wondering if we were being taken advantage of. Insights: Being a savvy traveler is just part of the learning experience, and we are grateful. The Amalfi coast is impressive, and we will return. Next time we will plan more hikes and be more aware of navigating tourist areas and restaurants. My book is now out: "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 . More next time.

PART 60: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the Summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: As we explore towns in Puglia, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. This week, let's explore Galatina. Step 2: History. Stories and legends influence our knowledge of Galtina. Still, the owl on the city's coat of arms hints at the Greek origins of the town since this bird was sacred to the goddess Minerva, who was worshiped in the area of Magna Grecia. The town was recorded as "St. Peter in Galatina" in a document dating from 1188, which captures the legend that the apostle Peter stopped here on his way to Rome around 42 AD. In the 14th century, Galatina came under the control of the Orsini family, and Count Raimondello gave the town its first great church in 1390. Triumphantly returned from the Holy Land and bearing a relic of Saint Catherine, Raimondello decided to build a church in her honor. The result is a fine example of late Romanesque Puglian architecture. In the 16th century, leaders erected the present-day walls and gates because of the growing need for defenses. In the 17th and 18th centuries, Gelatina experienced its golden age. Lecce's baroque style from this time is evident in many of its historical buildings. The Galatinese nobility was particularly interested in creating imposing, decorated doorways and balconies. You can see examples of this in the Palazzo del Concerto, the Palazzo Scrimeri, and the Palazzo San Lorenzo-Bardoscia with its elaborate facade. : Step 3: Sights. 1) The church of Santa Caterina d'Alessandria church is a must. When I first saw the frescoes in this church, I was speechless. Every time I return, I discover something new. The architecture of Santa Caterina is an excellent example of the Apulian Romanesque style, with incredible portals and a carved facade. Inside are incredible 15th-century frescoes that depict everything from early stories from the book of Genesis to scenes from St. Catherine's life, events from Christ's life, and scenes from church history. There is lots more; the fun part is discovering a new image or story each time one goes. The last time I went, I asked the Franciscan about the meaning of the frescoes. He explained that the artist was influenced by the class system of the time; in the back, where the poorer citizens sat, mostly Old Testament stories were painted, with themes of purification and judgment. In the front, where the nobility sat, are scenes of the life of Christ and redemption. At the back of the church, above the entry doors, the last scene that one sees, whether rich or poor, is the Last Judgement. Perhaps, this priest said, to remind each who enters and exits that, in the end, we are all equal. 2) Other sights include the walled historical center, baroque architecture, and three original gates: Porta Luce, Porta San Pietro, and Porta Cappuccini. We always enjoy wandering around this beautiful historical center, exploring ancient churches, interesting shops, and cool cafes. 3) Visit Pasticceria Ascalone, which invented Puglia's signature sweet, the pasticciotto - a crumbly pastry filled with a rich cream. 4) See the St. Peter and Paul church—a late baroque architecture church carved in Lecce stone facing the main piazza. The church dates from 1633 and is located in the town's main square. The façade is decorated with carved stone statutes. Inside are cycles of frescoes telling stories from the life of St. Peter. It is an elegant church and worth a visit. Step 5: Cool things. We always start visiting Galatina at Cafe della Rosa, a glass-walled cafe in a city park encircled by a roadway. Since it is right outside the historical center, getting a coffee and a sweet is our ideal way to start our visit. Insights: There is much more to Galatina than I have covered here, making it fun to return there repeatedly. The city's streets and allies always beckon us to explore and discover a historical palace, church, shop, or cafe. More next time. My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .

PART 95 It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas and towns in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. This week, let's explore The Via Francigena Step 2: What is it? The Via Francigena is an ancient walking trail that takes pilgrims on a remarkable journey from Canterbury in England, across the channel to France, and through Switzerland before crossing Italy towards Rome. This is a historic pilgrimage route that has been walked for centuries, similar to the Camino de Santiago. During the medieval era, the Via Francigena played a significant role in connecting Abbeys and Monasteries with the path leading south to Rome, which made it an important road for pilgrims. Step 3: The Via Francigena in Tuscany In the 1980s, Italian researchers discovered the travel journal of Abbot Sigerico, named Bishop of Canterbury in 990, in the British Library. In his journal, Sigerico wrote about 80 stops on the Via Francigena between Rome and Canterbury, covering a distance of 587 miles in Italy with 15 stops in the region of Tuscany. The Via Francigena is a historical European route that crosses Tuscany, offering a unique opportunity to explore almost 400 km of the ancient route that pilgrims, merchants, and travelers once traveled. The journey takes you through forests, hills, and medieval villages, providing glimpses into intriguing history, art, food, and wine. A trip along the Francigena route reveals an incredible beauty from the north to the south of Tuscany. Step 4: How to walk the Via Francigena For those who want to complete the entire Via Francigena, starting from Canterbury and ending in Rome, it takes approximately 100 days. However, if you're only interested in day trips, you can hike parts of the route anytime. Alternatively, if you're specifically interested in walking through Tuscany, completing that section of the route should take about a week. Some of the most beautiful stages of the Francigena in Tuscany include: San Miniato – Gambassi Terme (24 km/6 hours) This particular segment of the Via Francigena route takes you through the picturesque hills of Val d'Elsa, characterized by their lush meadows and towering cypress trees. The journey begins from San Miniato, located in the province of Pisa, and spans approximately 24 kilometers. Along the way, you'll be greeted by breathtaking views of fields dotted with ancient farmhouses and farms. The route culminates at the Gambassi thermal baths, an ideal spot to take a break and recharge your batteries. Gambassi Terme – San Gimignano (13 km/3 hours) To continue your journey from Gambassi Terme to San Gimignano, you only need to travel 13 kilometers. This route is relatively easy and perfect for cycling. Along the way, you'll come across the Pancole sanctuary, followed by the Romanesque church of Santa Maria Assunta in Cellole. San Gimignano is a remarkable example of medieval town planning and should be explored without rushing. San Gimignano – Monteriggioni (30 km/7 hours) This route is widely regarded as one of the most picturesque parts of the Via Francigena. Starting from San Gimignano, the longest path that crosses the region will take you right into the heart of the Tuscan hills, all the way to Abbadia a Isola, an ancient abbey on a patch of land. From there, the journey continues to the village of Monteriggioni, which is surrounded by impressive walls and sturdy towers. Monteriggioni – Siena (21km/6 hours) As you walk through Monteriggioni and explore its ancient walls, you can continue along the dirt roads and through meadows and woods until you reach the castles of Chiocciola. If you keep going through Pian del Lago and cross the Renai wood, you will soon see the magnificent outline of Siena, one of the most beautiful cities in Tuscany. Once you reach Siena, stroll along its cobbled streets and visit the stunning Duomo and Piazza del Campo. It's a gratifying experience. Step 5: Hiking and history We love hiking because it allows us to explore new areas and enjoy breathtaking views of nature. However, walking along certain sections of the Via Francigena is a unique experience. It makes us feel a strong connection to the rich history of pilgrims, soldiers, saints, sinners, the curious, and the indifferent. This awareness gives our walk a deeper meaning. Step 6: Resources There are many online resources where maps of the Via Francigena are broken into small day trips. For day trips, one can choose a section of the Via Francigena at: https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=1025i-0SYMgt3LgGoIy9Fx5Pl4H4&femb=1&ll=43.43094071944643%2C11.037143450000002&z=8 Insights: Stories give meaning to a place, building, monument, or hike. Walking along the Via Francigena makes us part of the great history of stories of those who have walked this path before. More next time. Now on sale for $2.99: My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRKMKPWF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_X2WRQ3PTG2ZDD7AVF6GH Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 1: Thought it might be of interested how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year, so will post some steps we took. Here I am now in Puglia southern Italy. Here until end of Sept. Step 1: Started several years back with the question: why not? Step 2: Let's explore the possibility of living in Europe, without any obligation. Step 3: Where? We took our time here, first considering Spain, then France and then Italy. We looked at visa/residency requirements for each, national health care system, quality of life and expenses/costs. Step 4: We zeroed in on Italy because of it's cost of living, health care network and quality of life. Step 5: What matters. Through this process, we came to realize what really matters to us: relationships. We have friends in Italy who are like family, and, rather than moving to some beautiful town where we know no one, we chose Italy because, in the end, it is relationships that are most important. Watch for my book coming out later in the year: "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy". More next time.