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- Buying a Kitchen in Italy
PART 96: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Let's explore how we bought a kitchen in Italy. Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we are discovering some gems that are worth sharing. Some of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. Previous kitchen/before photo This week, let's focus on living in Italy and what we learned about swapping out our kitchen for a new one. Step 2: At the beginning of our Italian adventure, we thought we would settle in Puglia, where many of our friends live and where the lifestyle is similar to that of southern California. So, after renting for a year, we made an offer on a house. Though the offer didn't work out, we learned a lot, especially about kitchens in Italy. Step 3: We worked with a realtor in Puglia and crafted the offer to stipulate what we wanted included in the sale, including the kitchen. The kitchen was a bit dated, but we couldn't afford to install a new one immediately. The seller responded that they would consider our offer but that they would not leave their kitchen. When we asked the realtor why, she said, "It was a wedding present, so they want to take it with them." We were like, "huh?" The realtor went on to explain that it is common practice to remove the kitchen when a house is sold because it often has sentimental value. "But," we objected, "we can't afford 12-15,000 euro for a new kitchen!" The realtor laughed. "Kitchens don't have to cost that much in Italy!" We learned that she was right. Step 4: Fast-forward to when we bought our house in Tuscany. At a certain point, we realized that the historical kitchen wouldn't work for us and that we needed to find out what a new kitchen would cost. We consulted with our local friends and realtor, who directed us toward a few large national chain stores; the most well-known is Mondo Convenienza. Our friend told us, "There you can find affordable but nice kitchens that include all the appliances!" But we were more familiar with Ikea kitchens, so we went there first. Step 5: Our Ikea experience in Florence There was something comforting and familiar about walking through the kitchen displays at the Ikea in Florence. They seemed so affordable, with signs displaying things like "950 euro, including appliances, "or "All this for 1,500 euro!" We set up the planning appointment at Ikea, provided our measurements, and met with a planner online from our home. She quickly devised a design but didn't seem to hear some of our wants. "We want the stove to be between the sink and the dishwasher because there is a window that we don't want the stove in front of," we said. "Oh, we can't do that," she said as she proceeded. Then she asked if we wanted assembly included and a few other questions about the wood countertop, etc. Previous kitchen Ultimately, we didn't get the kitchen design we wanted, and the price was way over what we wanted to spend. What happened to the "All this for 1,500 euro" kitchen? It wasn't a reality. Step 6: Other kitchen stores We decided to follow our local friend's advice and headed over to Mondo Convienza to take a look. This store has kitchens, furniture, lighting, and other household amenities. We found their furniture bulky and lighting fixtures old-fashioned, but their kitchens looked sleek and modern with prices starting at around 1,700 euro. Within 15 minutes, they accommodated us with a designer. Step 7: Design, delivery, and installation We walked through the store and found a kitchen that we liked. After we provided the measurements, the designer developed a great design with all the basics. But the sink was too small, and the faucet was ugly. We upgraded the sink and stove and said that we would provide our own kitchen faucet. Installation? Yes. Do you need a plumber to do the hookups? No, we have our own. New kitchen So, our sleek kitchen, including a dishwasher, oven with induction cooktop, large sink, and modern cabinets with countertops, cost a fraction of what it would have back in the US, even with the upgrades. We ordered the kitchen, and the following month, it was installed with no glitches. Step 8: What we learned. When buying a house in the US, having to put in a new kitchen is a big consideration in deciding whether to proceed. This mindset is what we brought with us to Italy, but we discovered that swapping out a kitchen for a new one doesn't have to be as expensive as we thought. Doing the leg work helped us discover that buying and renovating a house and establishing a life in Italy can be less expensive than we had imagined. More next time. Now on sale for $2.99: My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRKMKPWF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_X2WRQ3PTG2ZDD7AVF6GH Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Trash and Recycling in Italy
PART 114: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. So me are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. Let's stay close to home this week and sort our trash together. Step 2: We believed we were recycling in California by putting our plastic and glass in one bin and everything else in another. But when we got to Italy, we realized that our recycling practices were at a basic level. Step 3: How trash is differentiated in Italy The separation of trash in Italy goes something like this: Paper Organic materials Plastic Glass Metals Non-recyclable Step 4: Is it the same everywhere in Italy? The way you recycle depends a lot on your location. The Italian government is eager to maintain its reputation as a leader in sustainability. This is why Italy continues to enhance its waste management systems and services to promote reusing, reducing, and recycling for residents and businesses. Municipalities (comuni) will also impose fines on those who do not comply. Step 5: Trash pick up: At home or down the street. In our town in Puglia, trash was picked up every week on designated days. We had to remember the day each type of recycling or trash was collected and put it out the night before. We frequently had to check our chart because we could never remember! If we were away for a few days or more, the accumulated trash would have to sit until we returned. Now that we live in the historical center of our town in Tuscany, we don't have trash pick-up at the house. Instead, we must bring it down to large color-coded bins a few blocks away. We prefer this method since we don't have to wait until a specific day to dispose of particular trash. These bins are locked but can be opened with a magnetic card obtained at the local government office by showing proof of home ownership. If someone is renting a place, the owner would supply this card. Step 6: Color coding of trash bins. Trash bins are color-coded: blue for paper, brown for organic, yellow for plastic, gray for non-recyclable. Some areas also use green for glass and turquoise for metals. Step 7: The challenge of multiple garbage containers in the kitchen. I'll be honest; having multiple trash containers in the kitchen can be a hassle when you have a small space. In our kitchen in Puglia, we were fortunate to have a larger space, so we could place all of our containers on one side of the kitchen. Although we had to see them all the time, at least we didn't trip over them. We also had an outdoor storage area at the bottom of our stairs, which allowed us to take out the trash and recyclables from the kitchen and keep them in the storage area until trash day. In Tuscany, we have a "soggiorno" or main room that serves as a kitchen, living room, and dining room. Because space is limited, we want to avoid trash containers cluttering the floor. We found some stackable units a few days before we returned to California and put them in our pantry. We had to get small trash cans so they could fit in our pantry. Smaller trash cans mean more trips to the trash bins, but it's worth it. I hate clutter and would prefer to drop off recycling every morning on the way to the gym than having to look at trash containers in our main room. Step 6: Links, sources: https://www.expatica.com/it/living/household/trash-and-recycling-in-italy-84629/#sorting Insights: Italy's recycling program takes some getting used to, but it's an excellent step for the environment. The US is a bit behind on this, but we are heading in that direction. In fact, our local trash disposal company in California recently issued color-coded bins as a voluntary recycling program modeled on the EU. Starting this more differentiated recycling in Italy is good practice for us, and once we've overcome the learning curve, it has become second nature. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Updates on Reducing the Cost of Renting a Car in Italy
PART 123: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's explore how we manage to control the cost of renting a car for the long term (2-3 months) while living in Italy. Step 2: During our first extended stay in Italy, we followed the advice from several travel forums and decided to lease a car from Renault near the Rome airport ( https://www.autoeurope.com/renault-eurodrive/ ). At that time, it cost us approximately $1,900 for two months, which included a new vehicle, roadside assistance, full insurance, and multiple drivers. While it wasn't cheap, it was still more affordable than a daily rental. We had a great car and faced no worries. However, we noticed that leasing prices skyrocketed; at the writing of this blog I checked the rates, which were over $3,000 for two months for their most economical car. This prompted us to begin exploring other alternatives. (FYI: After posting this blog, I got an email from Renault, stating that their 2025 rates have been lowered. I just checked their rates for when we will be needing a car, and they are comparable to when we first started leasing from them. It is worth checking them out.) Step 3: Many aspects of life in Italy operate smoothly through personal relationships. While living in Puglia, we heard about a company that rents out used cars at low prices. We communicated via WhatsApp instead of through a website and arranged a two-month car rental for our upcoming trip. The company is located not far from Lecce: https://noleggio.lafenicesrl.it/noleggio-auto-usate/14/14/noleggio-auto-usate . Our experience was positive. During the off-season, we found used cars available for rent, including insurance, for as little as 15 euros per day. However, we chose to spend a bit more to get a better vehicle. Pros: Low prices, a local company, and insurance included. Cons: These cars are only for local use and cannot be driven across Italy. For instance, when we traveled to the Amalfi Coast, we rented a new car from a different company for the four days we spent driving along the coast. Step 4: Newest Solution When we moved to Tuscany, our previous car rental service no longer met our needs, so we looked for alternative solutions. I asked a local friend from Rome to accompany me to the Rome train station to gather information from each car rental agency. After collecting details from all the agencies, we found one Italian-based agency that would suit our needs, as they offer monthly rentals during some months of the year. Step 5: Sicily By Car We spoke with Mario, who works at the Sicily By Car desk at the Rome train station, about their monthly car rental options. Here are some important points to keep in mind regarding the monthly car rental: 1. The monthly rate is not available during the high season. You can check their website for specific dates. 2. The monthly rate comes with mileage limits: either 2,500 miles or 4,000 miles per month, depending on the chosen rate. 3. The online rate does not include insurance. More information on this is provided below. 4. For insurance, both employees at the desk advised against purchasing it through the website. Instead, they recommended buying it at the desk. The website offers third-party insurance that requires the driver to pay for any accidents upfront and then seek reimbursement. Make sure to consider these points when planning your rental! Step 6: The link For additional information about this monthly deal, please visit the following link: https://www.sicilybycar.it/en/car-hire/info/monthly-car-rental Step 7: Insurance and rental costs Although the rental car cost on the website was listed as approximately 450 euros per month, additional expenses such as insurance brought the total to around 800 euros per month for the car from Sicily By Car with a 4,000 mile limit, since we were driving long distances during that time. This price is much cheaper than the leasing program we were using and significantly less expensive than a daily rental. Step 8: Drawbacks One drawback for us was the timing of our visit in September. Since we arrived on September 15 and the low season began in October 1, we had to rent a car on a daily basis for two weeks. This increased our expenses significantly. However, we still spent less than we would have if we had leased a car from Renault or other companies. One drawback of the Sicily By Car website is the inconsistency in car availability. Sometimes it displays a wide range of options, while at other times, there are none listed. Occasionally, I can view prices for cars 3 to 6 months in advance, but other times I can only find cars available a month ahead, with no options for later dates. We checked the website two or three times in October to reserve a car for the spring for two months, and on one occasion, it finally allowed us to make a reservation. This approach worked for us in the fall, as the staff at Sicily By Car assured us that starting on October 1, they would have plenty of cars available, and that turned out to be true. When we picked up our car on September 15 (daily rental), they advised us to go on the website and reserve the month-long rental beginning October 1. We had to return to swap cars, but the process went smoothly. In the end, we were also able, with some effort, to reserve a car for the spring for two months. However, we remain uncertain if this will be a permanent solution for us due to the difficulties in securing a car in advance. As we explore more car leasing and rental solutions, I will share additional blog posts. Step 9: Your experience If you have discovered affordable car rental or leasing solutions in Italy, please share them in the comments, and I will look into them. Thank you! I hope that helps! Step 10: Update of May 2025: we just returned from Italy and ended up leasing the car from Renault , as refernced above. The price of leasing with Renault and Sicily-by-car were so close, that we went with Renault . So it is well worth investigating both options for long-term rentals, since Renault’s prices are coming down and Sicily-by-car seems to be marketing their month-long rental options more aggressively. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- The Schengen Shuffle
PART 132: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's explore the Schengen Shuffle Step 2: Our story When our dream of living in Italy began to take shape, we realized we needed to determine what would work best for us. Initially, we thought our only options were to either live there full-time or not at all. We explored dual citizenship, residency requirements, and visa regulations. We learned that we could stay in Italy for only 90 days without a visa, and an elective visa was the best option for a more permanent stay. However, our commitments in California would prevent us from living in Europe full-time. We felt stuck and couldn't see beyond the constraints we had imposed on ourselves. In a previous blog post, I reflected on how we moved past that "all-or-nothing" mindset and began to recognize that a life in Italy could fit within the realities of our situation. Ultimately, we decided that our best solution would be to maintain our residency in the U.S. and live in Italy for 2-3 months at a time, twice a year, in compliance with Schengen Area regulations. During our research, we encountered others who were already living in Italy. Some had found various solutions that suited their individual lifestyles. A few have become expats, living in Italy full-time; they obtained residency and sold their homes in the U.S. while maintaining American citizenship. Others chose arrangements similar to ours, spending part of the year in their home country and the other part in Italy, each lasting 90 days or less. Additionally, some found solutions that worked well for them, often called the "Schengen Shuffle." Step 3: In a previous blog, I explained what the Schengen Area is, but to summarize: The Schengen Area allows free movement for over 450 million EU citizens and non-EU nationals legally residing in the EU, including tourists and business travelers. It enables these individuals to travel, work, and live in EU countries without special permits, effectively eliminating border checks within the area. Currently, the Schengen Area consists of 29 countries, including most EU nations except Cyprus and Ireland. Bulgaria and Romania became members on January 1, 2025, joining non-EU countries Iceland, Norway, Switzerland, and Liechtenstein. The agreement removes internal border checks while establishing regulations for entry at external borders, allowing individuals to stay for up to 90 days. If you plan to travel to Europe, it is essential to understand the Schengen Border Agreement to facilitate smooth movement among the participating countries. Step 4: History: What is the Schengen Agreement? The Schengen Area is one of the significant achievements of the European Union. Five countries—France, Germany, Belgium, the Netherlands, and Luxembourg—initiated it in 1985. It has since grown to become the largest free travel area in the world. Named after a village in Luxembourg where the original agreements were signed, the Schengen Area allows member countries to eliminate checks at internal borders, except during specific security threats. Instead, standardized controls are implemented at their external borders based on clear criteria. Step 5: Passport requirements To enter the Schengen area in Europe, your passport must be valid for at least six months from the date of your entry. If your passport is set to expire within that six-month period, airlines may deny you boarding on your flight to Europe. Step 6: Time limits: 90/180 For travelers from non-EU countries, such as the U.S., visiting Schengen countries without a visa is allowed for a maximum of 90 days within any 180-day period. If you frequently travel to these countries, keeping track of your stays is essential to avoid exceeding this limit. I recommend using the Schengen Visa Calculator, a useful tool for determining how long you can legally stay in the Schengen area without exceeding the 90-day allowance. We like this calculator: https://www.visa-calculator.com/ Step 7: What is the Schengen Shuffle? The Schengen shuffle is a strategy that travelers use to manage their time in and out of the Schengen Area, ensuring they do not exceed the 90-day limit. This often involves moving between Schengen and non-Schengen countries. For example, as a traveler approaches their 90-day limit in the Schengen Area, they might take a 90-day trip to a non-Schengen country such as the UK, Ireland, or even Morocco. Since the rule allows individuals to stay in the Schengen zone for a maximum of 90 days within any 180-day period, this temporary exit effectively "resets" their stay duration in the Schengen Area. After spending time outside of it, they can return for another stay. We know of a couple who lives in Italy for 90 days at a time. After that period, they move to Turkey, where they rent a house for another 90 days. They have been doing this for years, and it works well for them. Step 8: Who would do the Schengen Shuffle and Why? Maintaining residency in one's country of origin while living full-time in Europe by utilizing the Schengen Shuffle can be an effective strategy for those not seeking European residency. There could be various reasons for this choice, including: Taking a sabbatical and wanting to live in Europe for a year Needing to retain one's U.S. (or other country of origin) residency due to work or family obligations, financial or medical reasons, etc Desiring to experience different cultures and countries throughout the year I have heard accusations that people participating in the Schengen Shuffle do so to evade taxes. But this is simply judging others without knowing their story. In the end, individuals who choose to engage in the Schengen Shuffle are making decisions that suit their unique circumstances. Step 9: Schengen Countries The Schengen Area consists of 29 European countries with common entry and exit requirements, eliminating the need for internal borders. This agreement enables travelers to move freely between these countries without undergoing border checks or obtaining separate visas. The countries in the Schengen Area are: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Czechia, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Italy, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, the Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, and Switzerland. Step 10: Non Schengen European Countries Several European countries are not part of the Schengen Area. These countries have their own border regulations: Albania, Belarus, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Cyprus, Ireland, North Macedonia, Moldova, Montenegro, Russia, Serbia, the United Kingdom, and Ukraine. Step 11: How to do the Schengen Shuffle Doing the "Schengen Shuffle" refers to living in non-Schengen countries between stays in Schengen countries. For instance, you can spend 90 days in Spain and then travel to Montenegro or Albania, which are outside the Schengen Area. After your stay in these non-Schengen countries, you can return to the Schengen Area and continue traveling without needing a visa. Step 12: Tips on doing the Shuffle Track Your Days Use apps like Schengen Calculator to keep track of your time inside and outside the Schengen Area. Even one extra day can lead to fines or a travel ban. Plan Ahead Book your travel and places to stay for your off-period before you reach your Schengen limit. This helps you avoid last-minute stress. Understand Visa Requirements Some non-Schengen countries have specific visa rules. Check these and get any needed visas well in advance. Mix Up Your Locations Plan to visit popular tourist spots during your "on" days in the Schengen Area and explore quieter places on your "off" days. Embrace Slow Travel Staying 90 days in one or two Schengen countries helps you experience the local culture, and your off-period lets you discover new regions. Step 13: Sources https://www.bdbrelocationandlegal.com/the-schengen-shuffle-in-italy/ https://motoroaming.com/managing-the-schengen-shuffle/ https://atypicalvagabond.com/mastering-the-schengen-shuffle-a-guide-to-maximizing-your-time-in-and-around-europe/ More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Is It Worth Buying a Home in a "Dying" Italian Town?
PART 139: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's explore our experience of deciding whether to buy a house in a dying Italian town. Step 2: What is a dying Italian town? With the emergence of "1 euro homes" for sale, reflecting on the advantages and disadvantages may be worthwhile. The first step to gaining clarity is to define our terms: A "dying town" may refer to several factors, including: - Population decline - Economic decline, such as the loss of jobs and businesses - Deterioration of infrastructure, including roads Thus, the definition of a "dying town" can encompass all or just one of these characteristics. Step 3: My experience In my experience, the most common reason for an Italian town's decline is a decrease in population, often linked to economic factors. A town that may appear charming to an American can feel like a dead end to a local young person seeking career or job opportunities. So they move away. Another phenomenon is a lively town with a declining historical center. Locals might shy away from living in the historical area due to narrow streets and other inconveniences. In contrast, foreigners may be drawn to the historical center's history and charm. Step 4: Plus factors Suppose one is a foreigner looking to establish a life in Italy. In that case, whether full-time or part-time, there are several advantages to renting or buying property in areas with declining populations. These advantages include: More affordable housing options Economic incentives offered by the local government The chance to live in a historic and charming area Greater opportunities to connect with locals in smaller towns Many smaller historical towns feature beautiful centers and houses full of character Step 5: Negative factors What may be a negative factor for me might not be for someone else. Positive and negative aspects depend on what one is looking for in establishing a life in Italy. For example, some might prioritize enjoying wine on a balcony every evening, or having easy access to cultural and historical sites, or mountain biking along the rolling hills. For me, some of the negative factors of living in a declining town include: There isn't anything going on. In some towns I have visited, there hasn't been much going on. Years ago, I stayed in one such town while looking at housing. It was a beautiful, charming historical area. However, after a few days, I realized the place felt deserted. I was often the only person on the streets, and if we moved to a town like that, we would likely just spend our evenings watching TV—something we can already do in California. Lifestyle challenges. We desire a more active lifestyle, whether in California or Italy. Whether it involves going to the gym, hiking in nature, or exploring new areas, we want to be near these opportunities. Some of the places I have researched and visited lack some of these options nearby. Accessibility to cultural and historical sites Both of us are interested in history and culture, so being within a short distance of multiple historical and cultural sites is important. Some (not all) charming villages in decline can feel isolated from these attractions. Accessibility Some declining towns require comfort when driving in Italy and might not have nearby train connections. Abandoned or empty houses Abandoned houses are a sign of decline, which may or may not be an obstacle, depending on what one is looking for. Step 6: Big city or smaller town Many expats or individuals looking to establish a life in Italy often consider living in large cities like Rome or Florence. However, some may find themselves priced out of these metropolitan areas. This leads to an important decision: what type of town should I consider for living within my budget? That was our experience as well. We were priced out of the larger cities, and my partner doesn't enjoy city living. As a result, we shifted our focus to smaller towns that offer charm and a sense of community. Step 7: What we found We settled in Arcidosso, a lively town with a fascinating historical background. It is linked to the Knights Templar, the Via Francigena pilgrimage route, and features an 8th-century castle. Arcidosso is a vibrant community with schools, shops, festivals, easy access to cultural sites, and various sports activities. Additionally, we are located next to Mount Amiata, which offers skiing, hiking, and mountain biking opportunities. Before finding the right fit for our lifestyle, we visited many towns, some in decline and others not. We started in Puglia and had a great time there, but we felt the lifestyle was too similar to Southern California for us. Ultimately, we ended up in Tuscany because of our love for the outdoors and the easy access to historical and cultural sites. Our town, Arcidosso, is ideally situated for exploration, new experiences, and starting a new life. Insights: Finding a place to live in Italy can feel like taking a personality test; it largely depends on your interests and desired lifestyle. Determining what constitutes a "dying" town versus a vibrant one also relies on the experience I seek. Being close to cultural landmarks and historical sites may attract some people to areas where the towns are small and picturesque, with museums and history within driving distance. Quiet evenings on the terrace and the opportunity to connect with locals might entice someone to another town experiencing population decline, even if it lacks vibrant street life, as that might not be what they seek. Being close to hiking trails, biking paths, and stunning views may attract nature lovers to a different, less populated, town. Some people are attracted to the historical center of a town, even when a newer and more vibrant area is nearby. They often appreciate the charm and history of the old buildings despite the presence of abandoned houses and signs of decline. For many, the appeal of the past and the excitement of taking on a renovation project in a historical area outweigh the challenges involved. As we explored more towns, we began to understand the unique vibe of each place, which helped us clarify what we were looking for. This journey happily led us to our current home. I hope your journey leads you to a town that fits what you are looking for. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- The Mystery of the Italian Washing Machine
PART 15: I t might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. Our theme is: "Why is the washing machine still going?" Step 1: When traveling or living in Italy, I always try to stay in an Airbnb with a washing machine, so I don't have to worry about running out of clothes. But sometimes, I've stayed in a hotel traveling around the country and sought other laundry solutions. I will share some of my experiences. Step 2: The full-serve laundromat conundrum. I went to the Dolomites with friends years ago, where we stayed in a beautiful hotel in an excellent area for a week. We didn't realize that, with all the hiking, we would take multiple showers a day, so we quickly ran out of clothes. We had too many to wash in our sinks, so we bagged them up and went to look for a laundromat in town. After much searching, we found one. When we asked where we could do our laundry, the lady working there told us that was impossible, but the laundromat would be happy to wash our clothes for us. To make a long story short, we discovered that the cost depended on the weight of the pile of clothes. Once we found that it would cost us over $60, we picked out what we could wash in sinks and left the rest, paying $40 for the combined load. Since this was years ago, I am unsure what the price would be today, but we resolved to avoid that situation in the future. Step 3: The self-service laundromat. When I go to Rome and stay in my favorite area (Campo dei Fiori), I know exactly where the self-service laundromat is; if I am staying in a place without a washing machine (which is rare), I just wash my clothes there. However, finding a laundromat in other European cities can be more challenging, depending on transportation. A few years ago, we were in Vienna, and we both wanted some fresh clothes, but we didn't want to wash them in our sink. We got online and found the self-serve laundromat, which would have required about a 30-minute bus ride and navigating unfamiliar streets to find it. "I don't want to waste our precious time here doing that," my partner said. He had a point; why waste half a day on laundry? Fortunately, we found an H&M store, so we just bought the new cheap clothing we needed and saved hours we would have spent at a laundromat. Lesson learned: don't depend on laundromats when traveling in unfamiliar areas. Step 4: Washing in my room. I have to confess that I've never used a bidet for its designed purpose, but I have found that it is the perfect shape and size for soaking and washing socks and underwear (after sanitizing it, of course). The plus is that it is hassle-free washing using minimal time. The minus is that the clothes are refreshed but not cleaned and that finding a place to dry them can be a hassle. Enough said about that. Step 5: The Italian Washing Machine Mystery. My first experience of the mystery of the Italian washing machine was when I was staying with my friend in Rome. After a few days, I needed to do laundry; I threw some clothes in, poured some detergent, and set it to the "cotton" cycle. When I left the apartment and returned about four hours later, the washing cycle was still churning. There were three of us in the apartment, and, at this rate, we could only do two small laundry loads a day. We all studied the illustrated dial on the washing machine, which looked like something on the Voyager spacecraft which other creatures on another planet were supposed to be able to decipher. We couldn't figure it out, so we started doing our laundry before bed, another load when one of us first got up, and another during the day. So we have it: the mystery of the Italian washing machine . Now that we live in Puglia, we have had to try to crack this mystery. With the help of our local friends, we have, to some extent. We found a cycle on the dial that permits us to wash a load in 30 minutes, with either 30 or 40 degrees Celsius, which is room temperature or warm. This short cycle suits our needs, though we have been told that our clothes will not get clean on such a short cycle. But our clothes seem fine to us. Why such long cycles on Italian washing machines? A local friend told us it is because of water and energy conservation. Our friend also stated that Italian washing machines have to heat the water since most are not hooked up to a water heater, which makes the cycle longer. Step 6: Dryer luxuries. We went to Naples with our local friends last year and wandered through the incredible streets, observing the history, architecture, and laundry. When we happened upon somebody's clothes drying rack on the street, chained to a pole, I remarked, "But don't they have dryers?". Our Italian friends stopped in the street, looked at each other, and busted out laughing. They keep recounting this story to their friends; one of them told me that it reminds them of the remark attributed to Marie Antionette: "Let them eat cake." Since Italy has to import all of its gas and most of its energy, having a dryer is a type of luxury since they take a lot of energy to run. So the American expectation that an Italian home or family has a dryer makes our Italian friends laugh. And rightly so. Step 7: The washer/dryer combination. "Wow, this is so cool! We have a washer that also dries our clothes!" I cried out to my partner upon checking into our Airbnb. Combined washer/dryers are not uncommon in Europe but are virtually unknown in the US. We were excited to have this new convenience. When my partner came down with the flu on this trip and was feverish and sweating, we soon needed to wash clothes. "Good thing we have this washer/dryer combo," I said as I opened it to put in a load. I couldn't get a load of clothes in; I was trying to stuff them in as a whole. So I put the clothes aside and knelt to look inside the front load machine. I chuckled as I noticed that the machinery of the washer/dryer took up so much room that the actual basin to wash the clothes was tiny. We could only insert a few items at a time, and the cycle was never-ending. We found that doing a laundry load that we were used to in California took at least three loads utilizing this machine; plus, the clothes often came out damp, perhaps because we added too many. We decided to avoid this combo machine in the future. Step 8: Drying clothes. Without a dryer, clothes need to be hung out to dry. When we are here in Puglia in the summer, it is a relatively simple task to carry the clothes to our terrace, hang them on the clothesline, and bring them down a few hours later. In the winter, the challenge is to find the space where clothes will dry as quickly as possible. Like most Italian households, we have an indoor folding clothesline, which we set up in front of our radiator. When we run out of space, we lay our socks or other clothing on the radiator itself (only when we are in the house), but please don't tell anyone about that! Insights: Though I haven't read a scientific study on the topic, our local friends claim that their system of washing (front loading, longer cycles) gets the clothes cleaner and is more water and energy efficient. They also say that the front loading machines are easier on your clothes. Regarding clothes being cleaner, that makes sense to me: a longer cycle means washing more of the dirt out. However, I am still unsure how running the machine for hours to wash a load uses less energy than the short cycle we are used to in California, but maybe there is something that we don't grasp yet. **Please see this updated blog on the same topic: https://www.marktedesco.com/post/our-italian-adventure-the-mystery-of-the-italian-washing-machine-revisited Here in Puglia, our clothes smell and look clean. We have cracked the mystery; we use the quick wash cycle and have figured out how to dry our clothes in both summer and winter. If any of this changes, I will need to write another blog! More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- The Mystery of the Italian Washing Machine - Revisited
PART 115: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we are discovering some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's revisit how to solve the mystery of the Italian washing machine. Step 2: In our first year living in Italy, I wrote a blog about the mystery of the Italian washing machine. It was meant to be lighthearted and aimed at making readers smile rather than explaining all the technical details of the machine. I wrote it because many people who come to Italy face the same mystery: why does washing laundry at home take over three hours? To solve this mystery, we asked local friends in Puglia to come over and explain the codes or symbols on the washing machine dial. At one point, there were four of us, with a fifth person looking over our shoulders, trying to make sense of it. Finally, I suggested they show us the shortest cycle, and we would stick to that one. After some investigating, we found the shortest cycle, about 30 minutes. Through trial and error, we discovered we could clean clothes by running this cycle twice: once with detergent and once without. While we didn't fully understand the Italian washing machine, we found a solution that worked for us. Then something happened. Step 3: In previous blog posts, we discussed our decision to move from Puglia to Tuscany, buy a house, and renovate it. As part of the renovation, we opted to purchase a dryer to speed up the laundry process, as we mentioned in a previous blog. When the dryer was delivered by our local electronics store, a trained technician came to install it and provide us with instructions. In Italy, many things are based on relationships, so we chose to support our local businesses by buying large items, such as appliances, from them. When the dryer was delivered, we were already friendly with the store's staff and the delivery technician. During the technician's visit, he explained the workings and unveiled the mystery of the Italian washing machine, which also applies to our new dryer and dishwasher. Step 4: Long Cycle on dishwasher, washing machine and dryer When I first used our new dishwasher, the default program was "Eco," it ran for 3 hours before finishing. The next day, I found a "short wash" cycle, which caused our electric switch to turn off twice. Some weeks later, when our new dryer was delivered, I asked the technician about the best energy-saving programs for our washer, dryer, and dishwasher. The information provided was interesting, and the long washing cycles were explained. Step 5: Explanation of the Eco Default Program Our local technician explained the " eco " cycle and why it is preferable. The term "eco" usually refers to more efficient cycles in terms of electricity use. For a washing machine, clothes are washed at lower temperatures than traditional cycles. The cycle length is also different: the eco mode takes much longer than other wash cycles. How long does an eco-program take? Depending on the washing machine, it can take up to 5 hours. The cycle length doesn't mean higher energy use; on the contrary, it saves electricity. How? With the eco-program, a dryer, for example, heats up much more slowly and works at lower temperatures. More on this below. Step 6: More economical. Eco-washing is the most cost-effective option for a washer, dryer, and dishwasher. This program efficiently uses the right amount of water and electricity to clean clothes and dishes or dry your clothes. For instance, a dishwasher in Eco 50°C mode uses only 0.54 kWh* per cycle, saving up to 2.4 kWh* of energy. Step 7: More facts. How does the Eco 50° program save energy even though it takes longer? It's simple: the longer wash cycle means the water heats up more slowly than shorter programs. Also, clothes or dishes remain in contact with the water and detergent for longer, resulting in less energy consumption than other programs. The same principle applies to the dryer: lower heat, longer cycle, and pauses during the eco cycle lead to reduced energy consumption. Step 8: Other symbols on the dial and workarounds There are various symbols on the dial of an Italian washing machine, some of which are only symbols, while others are words in Italian, Greek, or another language, accompanied by the respective symbol. I will include an image in this blog to help you understand the dial. As a general rule, if you see the word "Eco," it indicates a long cycle (3 hours or more) that uses less energy. If you see a number with a minute symbol, such as 40', it probably signifies a shorter cycle of 40 minutes. If you see a number with the degree symbol (40°), it refers to the water temperature; the higher the number, the more the washer/dishwasher has to heat the water, and the more energy is used and it can extend the washing time. If you see an "Express" or "Rapido" cycle, it will likely be a very short cycle of 15-20 minutes. You may want to run this type of cycle twice - once with soap and then without - to ensure your clothes are thoroughly cleaned. Step 9: Using the other options I have a reference image of the symbols commonly used in the EU for washing machine cycles, which can also help you solve the mystery of the Italian washing machine. To minimize our energy consumption, we mainly use the Eco cycles and plan the time accordingly (running the appliance at night or before we leave in the morning). For the other cycles, we have a visual guide similar to the one I posted. Additionally, our strong relationship with the managers of our local appliance store means they are always willing to assist us with any challenges we face as we unravel the mystery of the Italian washing machine. Please see this other blog post on the same topic: https://www.marktedesco.com/post/how-we-pulled-it-off-living-in-italy-the-mystery-of-the-italian-washing-machine More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- From Tuscany to Notre Dame
PART 150: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then return again in the Spring, and spend the rest of the time in California (as I explained in a previous blog, we only live in Italy part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's embark on a journey from Tuscany to Paris and visit Notre Dame in that glorious city. Step 2: About six months ago, we had a bold idea: why not drive to France and create a big loop that includes Nice, Lourdes, Paris, and Carcassonne? However, after calculating the driving distances, we realized that it would be too much for the 8- to 9-day period we had set aside for the trip. Eventually, we devised a more manageable itinerary that suited us. Step 3: Our itinerary What we came up with as our itinerary was this: Friday: Drive to Nice and spend the night exploring the old city. Saturday: Drive to Lourdes to volunteer. Sunday to Tuesday: Continue volunteering in Lourdes. Wednesday: Take a train to Paris, arriving in the afternoon for a stroll through the city. Thursday: Visit Notre Dame and the Louvre in Paris. Friday: Take a train back to Lourdes, pick up the car, and drive to Carcassonne. Saturday: Drive to Nice to explore, eat, and enjoy. Sunday: Drive home to Arcidosso. Step 4: Our focus While I could focus on various topics, including the impactful volunteering experience in Lourdes, today, let's explore our visit to Notre Dame in Paris, which was truly extraordinary. Step 5: First impressions On the afternoon of our arrival in Paris, after settling into our cozy Airbnb, we decided to take a 30-minute walk to the Notre Dame Cathedral. We had tickets to visit the inside the next day, so we just wanted to admire it from the outside and soak in its grandeur. My first impression was one of magic. Notre Dame feels almost mythical; it's very real, but it has an enchanting quality. The sight of its flying buttresses reminded me of my first visit at the age of 20. Back then, the stones appeared darker, and the building seemed harsher and colder from the outside than it does now. I recalled those two days in Paris when I didn't have enough money for a meal, yet I was profoundly grateful to witness something so magnificent. As a smaller-town boy from Sacramento, being in such a great city was overwhelming. My second impression was the surprise at how unfinished the exterior still is. From the interior photos I had seen, the restoration efforts were complete, and for the most part, they are inside. However, the outside still requires significant work, with scaffolding on one side and workers climbing up on the other. I found this surprising. Step 6: Background Notre-Dame de Paris, meaning "Cathedral of Our Lady of Paris," is a medieval Catholic cathedral located on Île de la Cité in Paris, France. It serves as the cathedral church for the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Paris. Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, Notre-Dame is considered a prime example of French Gothic architecture. It is renowned for its ribbed vaults, flying buttresses, large rose windows, and intricate sculptures. The cathedral also houses three pipe organs and impressive church bells. Construction began in 1163 under Bishop Maurice de Sully and was largely completed by 1260, although it has undergone modifications in subsequent centuries. The cathedral suffered damage during the French Revolution but later hosted significant events, including the coronation of Napoleon. As a symbol of both Paris and France, Notre-Dame was granted honorary status as a minor basilica in 1805. It attracts approximately 12 million visitors each year, making it the most visited monument in Paris. Step 7: The fire On April 15, 2019, a fire broke out under the eaves of the Notre Dame Cathedral's roof at approximately 6:30 PM local Paris time. The blaze rapidly engulfed the spire and most of the roof, continuing to burn until the following morning. Investigators believe the fire may have been caused by a discarded cigarette or an electrical short circuit. While the wooden spire and roof were destroyed, the vaulted stone ceiling helped contain the damage and prevented extensive harm to the interior. Many works of art and religious relics were moved to safety, although some suffered from smoke damage. Fortunately, the altar, two pipe organs, and three 13th-century rose windows sustained little to no damage. Firefighters managed to bring the blaze under control, saving the main structure, including the bell towers and rose windows. Fortunately, no injuries were reported. In the aftermath of the fire, the international community pledged hundreds of millions of dollars for reconstruction efforts. Step 8: The Restoration On April 16, 2019, the flames that devastated Paris's Notre-Dame Cathedral were finally extinguished. French President Emmanuel Macron promised to rebuild the iconic monument within five years, stating that it would emerge "more beautiful than ever." The restoration involves carefully reconstructing the areas damaged by fire, particularly the roof and spire, using traditional methods and materials. This process includes repairing the stone walls, restoring the stained-glass windows, and revitalizing the interior. The project engages around 2,000 craftspeople and 250 companies, with an estimated budget of $900 million. Although the site reopened before the end of the year, restoration work is ongoing. Step 9: Stepping inside To ensure we could enter Notre Dame in the morning, I reserved free tickets the day before. As soon as we stepped inside, the first thing I noticed was the light. The entire interior of the church seemed to be bathed in a soft glow, reflecting off the white stone walls and soaring ceiling. It's difficult to describe the experience of being in the "new" Notre Dame. I was standing inside a church that dates back to 1163, yet it appeared remarkably fresh. The light streaming through the massive stained glass windows illuminated the white stone walls, creating a warm, majestic space that felt both welcoming and cozy. We arrived early enough to explore the church's perimeters, entering side chapels, admiring the restored paintings, and marveling at the craftsmanship. My favorite part was the exterior of the choir enclosure, adorned with carvings that depict the stories of Christ's life. I was among the few who paused to appreciate these intricate images, which made the events of Christ's life accessible to both the literate and the illiterate. What I love most about this section of Notre Dame is the human quality of the carvings, which express emotions such as surprise, joy, sorrow, and triumph. After completing our tour around the cathedral, it became increasingly crowded, so we sought refuge in the enclosed areas reserved for prayer at the front and took a seat. Rather than merely touring the cathedral as a visitor, I wanted to experience it like a pilgrim. Sitting there, allowing the sacredness of the place to envelop me, and enjoying the tranquility was a crucial part of our visit. We spent a long time in reflection and began to understand the purpose behind the construction of Notre Dame. We found ourselves in a different world, with a new perspective and feeling, removed from our daily lives yet still connected to them. By the time we left Notre Dame, we felt a joyful transformation, as everything outside seemed to be illuminated with the warm light that had filled the interior. Insights: We started our visit to Notre Dame as mere tourists but ended up experiencing it as a sacred place. As we gazed at the artwork, marveled at the restoration process, and admired the architecture, we found ourselves drawn into the peace and serenity that embody the heart of Notre Dame—a place where everyone is welcome. Sitting in the cathedral and allowing its history, architecture, and artwork to "speak" can uplift you, transport you elsewhere, and then gently guide you back, ready to continue your day. That's what Notre Dame meant to me. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Transforming Our Italian Dream: Before and After Renovating Our House
PART 119: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems that are worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week let's explore how our house renovation is going. Step 2: We fell in love with our Tuscan home as soon as we saw it, but we knew some changes were necessary to fit our lifestyle. We didn't want to remove walls or make structural alterations, but we hoped to make it more "user-friendly," especially for American tastes, so we would feel more comfortable. Here are some before and after images of our home renovation in Tuscany. Step 3: The Kitchen The original built-in kitchen was beautiful but not practical for us. It had minimal storage and no dishwasher, and the stovetop relied on a propane tank under the sink. The sink was also tiny, and there were no drawers for silverware and other utensils. Before/After We decided to remove the old kitchen and purchased and installed a new one featuring an electric stove/oven, a dishwasher, a large sink with a dish sprayer, and plenty of drawers and storage options. The new kitchen actually occupies less space than the original and gives the room a more sleek and modern feel. Since our pantry adjacent to the kitchen is too small for a refrigerator, we knew the fridge would need to be placed in the main room. To make it visually interesting, we chose a 1950s-style refrigerator and microwave. Step 4: Converting the Dining Room into a Living Room In our house, one main room was originally furnished with a large dining table in the center, which occupied most of the space. This room functioned as both a kitchen and dining area, leaving no room for a living space. We didn't want a room dominated by a massive table with a sofa pushed against one wall. Our goal was to create a genuine living room with a sofa, chairs, a rug in front of a fireplace, and a smaller table for meals. To achieve this, we explored space-saving furniture options and discovered a wooden dining table that folds up against the wall, resembling a mantelpiece. We also found some space-saving living room furniture with a mid-century modern design. To maintain unity between the kitchen and living room, we decided to continue with the green theme of the kitchen cabinets. As a result, we now have a cozy living room with a fireplace and a dining area that we can open up during mealtimes. We chose not to place a TV in the main room but created a snug TV area upstairs. Before/After Step 5: Lighting We frequently bumped our heads on the house's lighting fixtures, most of which were pendant lights. We desired a more modern industrial aesthetic for the lighting, so we searched extensively for rustic fixtures that would sit closer to the ceiling. Our initial attempt to create an industrial lighting effect on the beams didn't turn out as expected, so we decided to redo the lighting by installing cable lighting between the rustic ceiling beams. The new lighting perfectly complements our home's Tuscan, mid-century modern, and industrial design themes. We ended up replacing all of the lighting in the home, using fixtures with a Tuscan/industrial theme. Step 6: Bathrooms Initially, we had only one bathroom but realized we needed two. Thankfully, our realtor referred us to an excellent contractor and architect who assisted with designing, selecting materials, and obtaining the necessary local government approvals. We decided to use part of the guest bedroom to create the new bathroom while preserving the rest of the room for a TV snug and a sofa bed for guests. We opted for a sleek, modern design for the new bathroom that maximizes utility and storage. Once we completed the new bathroom, we realized that the original bathroom also needed renovation. The half bathtub was inadequate for our needs, the sink and vanity were too large, and there was no heating. The hot water heater was about the size of a shoebox, which meant we had a lot of work ahead. We chose to keep the original white wall tiles and created a shower area using similar tiles. We removed the vanity, built a wall between the shower and laundry area, and installed new lighting and a large mirror. We also installed an electric towel drying rack that functions as a room heater during the winter. The result is a clean, sleek design that retains the original flooring and wood beam ceiling. Before/After Step 7: Bedrooms For the main bedroom, we knew we wanted a king-sized bed, ample storage, and a TV. We aimed for the room to feel spacious and uncluttered. To achieve this, we rearranged the furniture to accommodate the larger bed, added a dresser that doubles as a TV stand, and installed a metal industrial locker under the stairs for extra storage. We also added a carpet to give the room a warmer atmosphere. We wanted a multi-use space in the guest bedroom: it needed to serve as a sleeping area when we had guests, and a TV room and study/work area when it was unoccupied. We found a comfortable chaise sofa that could be used as a bed, included a dresser that could serve as a TV stand, and purchased a desk and lighting to create a study/work space in the window nook. Before/After Step 8: Work Areas Whenever my partner or I need to work on our computers, we utilize a dedicated workspace in the guest bedroom and another in the living room. Additionally, we can have a third workspace in the attic, although we have not started that project yet. Step 9: Other Improvements In addition to the improvements mentioned above, we also made the following upgrades: - Installed a clothes washer and dryer - Replaced all the windows with double-paned glass - Installed a large-capacity water heater - Installed heating downstairs and in the bathrooms - Created much-needed (hidden) storage Step 10: The Result The outcome of our renovation project is a Tuscan-style home that incorporates industrial and mid-century modern design elements. It is functional for both living and working and is equipped with the amenities we are accustomed to as Californians. Video of main room : Video . Insights: Renovating a house in Tuscany has been a learning experience. Our patience was tested during the months we spent living amidst the renovation, but now it feels genuinely worth it. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Mixing Italian Charm with American Comfort: Renovating a House in Tuscany
PART 136: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's stay close to home as we continue to renovate our house in Tuscany according to American preferences. Step 2: Kitchen priorities When we purchased our house in Tuscany, we didn't want to recreate our house from California. Instead, we aimed to preserve the Tuscan character, embrace the Italian lifestyle, and adapt to the new culture. However, we also wanted to make renovation choices that reflected some aspects of our Californian background. We began our renovations in the kitchen. Rather than just calling it a kitchen, we viewed it as the house's main room. Previously, it functioned mainly as a dining room, featuring a large table at its center, a kitchen against the back wall, and a small refrigerator next to the window. A large pellet stove was positioned near the window, with a few scattered chairs and a small TV was mounted on the wall near the fireplace. While we needed a space for dining, we envisioned our main room as a place to relax, entertain, and enjoy our life in Tuscany. Our first step was to remove everything. We requested the removal of the pellet stove, which took up a lot of space, as well as the previous owner's furniture. Next, we reimagined the room to create a space where Californians like us would feel comfortable. We decided on a midcentury modern design theme that would incorporate Tuscan elements. The original kitchen had a cool, historical look but occupied too much space, offered little practical storage, lacked a dishwasher, and relied on a propane tank under the sink. It didn't take us long to decide to replace it. We found an integrated kitchen with an electric stove and dishwasher, which took up less space and had a sleeker look. We then purchased a 1950s-style refrigerator and microwave, organizing the kitchen along the room's far wall. Rather than a dining table that would dominate the space, we chose a wood foldable dining table that could comfortably seat up to six people. When folded and not in use, it resembles a sideboard. We placed it next to the fridge and mounted a large Tuscan-style clock above it. Since the main room features a large fireplace, we wanted it to be the focal point. We decided against having a TV in our main room and instead focused on creating a living area around the fireplace. We bought a vintage-style rug to delineate the living space and found a midcentury-style sofa and chair to provide seating. Modern wire-supported ceiling lights were installed on the wooden beams, and we positioned a lamp with Edison-style lighting in the corner where the pellet stove used to be. Lastly, since we didn't want to haul wood but desired the ambiance of a fireplace, we found a realistic-looking electric log set (from Germany) and installed it in the fireplace, which can also provide heat if needed. Now, when entering the main room, the cozy midcentury living area draws the eye, as well as the Tuscan style stone walls and wood beam ceiling. Behind the sofa is the simple and sleek kitchen, and on the opposite wall is the concealed dining table, which we extend each evening for our meals together. Transforming the dining room into a living space allowed us to create a main room that fits our Californian taste while preserving Tuscany's charm. Step 3: A second bathroom We made an offer on our house in Tuscany, contingent upon whether a second bathroom could be created. Although there are only two of us, we're accustomed to having our own bathrooms, and when guests stay over, we want them to have their own space as well. The only location where a new bathroom could fit was against the wall of the second bedroom. However, several questions arose: Would there be enough space for a shower, sink, and toilet? Could this be done under local building codes? Would the design have a modern and sleek feel? Fortunately, our realtor employs a skilled designer who was able to help us. We provided her with the measurements, and she spent just one day researching the codes, crafting a design, and presenting us with a 3-D mockup. A week after we took possession of the house, work began on the new bathroom. Our contractor, an expert in renovations, skillfully created the new plumbing and electricity. The final look is sleek and modern. The bathroom was completed a few days before we left for California. When we returned in the Fall, we were amazed that he transformed an empty wall space into an impressive second bathroom. Step 4: Main bathroom priorities What is a bathroom according to American taste? Have you seen those short bathtubs in Italy where you are meant to sit? They often have two levels (your butt on one level, your feet on the other), and we had one of those in the main bathroom. Taking a shower without getting water everywhere and avoiding slips was quite a balancing act. Our main bathroom also featured a bidet, a huge vanity with a jutted-out sink, a washing machine, and a tiny water heater. In our renovated main bathroom, we wanted to include a full shower, a large water heater, a hidden area for the washer and dryer, ample storage, a space-saving vanity, and a toilet positioned against the wall rather than in the corner. Additionally, we wanted a towel rack to dry towels and keep the room warm in winter. Our incredible contractor explained how he could realize our vision while staying within our budget. We had to live without a shower for a while but removed the old bathtub, sink vanity, bidet, and toilet. We then built a shower with the dimensions as the previous tub, constructed a wall to house the plumbing, installed a larger water heater, relocated the toilet, and found a modern vanity with plenty of storage. We also replaced the lighting with something more industrial in style. Later on, we had a clothes dryer installed on top of the washer, which we located in a less visible space. This work also was completed just a few days before we had to leave for California. Now, we have a bathroom that aligns more closely with American preferences: a "bigger" shower, a modern vanity with storage, a designated area for the washing machine and dryer, and more floor space for storage cabinets. All this, while preserving the Tuscan style with the wood beam ceilings. Step 5: Privacy choices Every couple has common interests, and some don't align. Sometimes, I want to work on my computer while he prefers to phone his friends back in the U.S. Other times, he wants to watch TV, but I would rather have some quiet. Occasionally, he likes to reflect on a future work project while I want to play some music. In California, we are accustomed to spending quality time together and having private spaces. So, how can we create those private spaces in our smaller house in Tuscany? We decided to convert the second bedroom into a cozy "snug" TV room with an office nook in the corner. Instead of filling the space with a large bed, we chose a chaise sofa that can also serve as a guest bed. We added soft lighting and placed a TV on the opposite wall. Now, we have a warm and inviting space that works for both of us, whether relaxing or doing desk work. Initially, we considered creating an office in the attic and almost purchased a desk for that purpose. However, after living in the house for a while, we realized it wasn't necessary. As a result, we now use the attic solely for storage. The foldable dining table in the kitchen can also serve as a desk, and I frequently work there when writing a blog like this one. The third private space is still a work in progress. The main bedroom can accommodate a lounge chair or a desk, providing a spot to work, relax in front of the TV, or listen to music. We haven't finalized the design for this space yet, but we are actively working on it. Americans generally prefer having private spaces in their homes, and that is what we aimed to achieve in our renovation. Step 6: Increasing storage As a Californian, one of our mottos is, "You can never have enough storage." Therefore, one of our first tasks in our house renovation was to increase our storage options. Fortunately, a kitchen pantry was built under our staircase, complete with some already installed shelving. The existing kitchen was spacious but lacked the storage we needed. After researching various kitchen designs that would meet our needs and blend with the style of the house, we ultimately installed a fantastic new kitchen. It features a dishwasher, induction stove, oven, ample storage, and a large sink. We also added more shelving units and containers to the existing pantry. We also aimed to create more storage in the two bedrooms. We found a dark wooden six-drawer dresser for the main bedroom, but we needed additional storage. To maintain our industrial and mid-century modern design aesthetic, we eventually opted for a tall metal industrial-style locker/storage unit that fits perfectly under the attic stairs. Now, we have plenty of storage in the main bedroom; it also looks great and fits with the overall design. We incorporated storage within the sofa bed in the second bedroom and added another six-drawer dresser. If we need more storage, we are on the lookout for an additional industrial-style metal cabinet, but everything seems to have its place. For the bathrooms, we selected vanities with ample storage areas, a free-standing metal cabinet in the main bathroom, and a shelving unit. Our storage dilemma has been resolved! The attic also serves as a great storage space, where we have infrequently used items in plastic bins. Step 7: Tuscan character Our house has a lot of Tuscan character, featuring wood-beamed ceilings and exposed stone walls. When we show our home to our American friends, the phrase we often hear is, "Wow, this is so cool!" We explored a variety of homes for sale in Puglia and Tuscany and were consistently drawn to those with historical features. As we began renovating our home in Tuscany, we aimed to preserve and highlight its historical aspects. Visitors notice the wood-beamed ceiling first, and it was what initially attracted us to this home. One of my first tasks was to apply wax to the wooden beams to refresh and nourish the wood. This was more challenging than I had anticipated; the rough-cut beams would snag the cloth, leaving little pieces embedded in the wood. I had to change my approach and tools, so what was meant to be a quick job took a long time. Eventually, I managed to wax the beams, and ended up applying bees wax to all the wood features in the house. Another prominent Tuscan feature is the exposed stone on the walls. We recently had the home's interior painted, and our incredible painter took great care to preserve the embedded stonework. The stone walls stand out even more against the freshly painted plaster. The third important aspect is the flooring. The original travertine flooring is still intact in the upstairs bedrooms, while the travertine in the two bathrooms and the main kitchen/dining/living area was covered with tile at some point. Instead of removing it, we decided to thoroughly clean the existing flooring. This choice proved wise, enabling us to complete the renovation in just a few months and the existing tile goes with our Tuscan theme. Step 8: Being flexible We didn't come to Tuscany to replicate our life in California; instead, we aim to be flexible and adapt to local customs while also incorporating elements of our background into our renovation. This is an ongoing learning process. Our hope is that the house will showcase the history of our area while providing the comfort that two Californians are used to. And it will be a place we can eventually pass on to someone else who desires an authentic Tuscan experience blended with American and British tastes. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Our House Renovation Journey in Tuscany
PART 148: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems that are worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's explore how we transformed our house in Tuscany. Step 2: What we liked. We visited the Monte Amiata area of Tuscany to explore potential new bases as we considered moving north from Puglia. We looked at some houses for sale during our stay, primarily for fun. While we were open to buying, we felt more comfortable renting as we had done in Puglia. As we toured various houses, one in Arcidosso particularly caught our attention. In fact, it was the first house we viewed, and we returned to it the following day and again the day after. The original main room What we loved about this house was its historical character. Located in the historic center of Arcidosso, the town is rich in Templar symbols and other marks left by pilgrims who traveled the Via Francigena, an important medieval pilgrimage route from Canterbury to Rome. Above the door of the building, which dates back to the 16th century (or possibly earlier, depending on whom you ask), there is a curious elf-eared figure peering out and inviting viewers to a bygone era. When we stepped inside the house, we were struck by its charm: the beamed ceilings, tile and terrazzo floors, wooden accents, a massive fireplace, and an unmistakable aura of Tuscany enveloped us. Step 3: What our goal was. When we decided to purchase the house (discussed in another blog), our goal was to preserve its historical character while upgrading it to suit the needs of two Californians. We aimed not to replicate our life in California but to create a peaceful, relaxing, and convenient environment. Step 4: What we wanted to change at the beginning. Before we purchased the house, we made our offer contingent on the possibility of adding a second bathroom. Measurements were taken, and our realtor consulted with his design team to determine if a bathroom could be constructed in the second bedroom according to code. The new bathroom They confirmed it was feasible, and we received a design plan from our contractor, also recommended by our realtor and friend. The bathroom was our top priority for renovation. Next, we wanted to replace the existing bathtub, in the main bathroom, with a shower. The house had a half-bathtub with a sloping interior that seemed designed for either a child or an acrobat. We discussed this with our contractor, and he agreed to build a shower that matched the tub's dimensions, which would be ideal. The third issue was the lighting. We kept bumping our heads on the hanging fixtures, so we wanted to install lights that were more flush with the ceiling and featured a Tuscan/industrial aesthetic. We wanted to make these three main changes in the house before moving in. Step 5: What we decided to change during the renovation. Living in the house has brought to light some issues we hadn't anticipated. For example: Kitchen: We were initially fond of the old-fashioned Tuscan kitchen but soon realized it didn't meet our needs. There was little storage space, no room for a dishwasher, and the stove relied on a portable propane tank. Midway through the renovation, we decided to replace the kitchen. Our new kitchen features an induction stovetop and oven, a new refrigerator and microwave, and a dishwasher. Main Bathroom: We originally planned to convert the bathtub into a shower and leave it at that, but we soon recognized that the rest of the bathroom would appear dated alongside the new shower. As a result, we decided to install a new sink and vanity, update the mirror, remove the bidet to create additional space, and replace the toilet. Previous bathroom with half tub Renovated bathroom with shower Practicalities: Several practical matters arose while we were working on the house. Here are some of the key issues we addressed: Windows: We noticed the windows had paper-thin glass, which didn't keep out the cold. Therefore, we opted to have double-pane glass installed in all the windows. Hot Water: When we bought the house, we didn't realize that the hot water heater for the bathroom was about the size of a microwave, making showering nearly impossible. We purchased a large flat water heater and installed it behind the bathroom door to provide ample hot water. Laundry: Our approach to laundry evolved, as I described in another blog. Initially, we hung our clothes outside in Puglia. However, after moving to Tuscany, we found we didn't have an outside terrace to dry clothes. We bought an electric clothesline, but we started using a laundromat when that didn't work. Eventually, we realized that too much of our valuable time in Italy was spent on laundry, so we purchased a dryer a few weeks ago, which completely simplified the laundry process. Theme: We adopted a specific theme for the house, particularly with the tile and furnishings. We chose a Tuscan/industrial/mid-century modern look, which is reflected in the color scheme (green and wood tones), as well as the lighting and appliances, such as our fridge and microwave, which have a 1950s design. Heating: When we took possession of the house in winter, we were unprepared for how cold it would be. We had asked the seller to remove the pellet heater from the kitchen because it took up so much space, thinking we could address the heating later. However, the lower house ended up being really cold, with the only warm area being the bedrooms where we kept the pellet heater upstairs. Eventually, we devised effective heating solutions: we installed electric logs in the fireplace (in the living room) that produce heat, added electric towel racks in the bathrooms to warm the rooms, and kept the pellet heater in the main bedroom area. The pellet heater, in fact, warms the whole upstairs area. Fortunately, the new double-pane windows are also helping keep the house warmer. Paint: Initially, we thought the interior paint was in good condition. However, as we installed new appliances and furniture, we noticed that the kitchen ceiling was dingy due to years of fireplace use, and some walls appeared more gray than white. After consulting with our contractor, he found us a painter, and now the place looks fantastic! The new main room Step 6: How it came out. The house turned out beautifully, boasting much Tuscan charm with features such as wood beam ceilings, tile and terrazzo floors, exposed rocks in the walls, painted stucco, and a 16th-century structure. In addition to its rustic appeal, the house includes all the conveniences that an American or British person would find comfortable: a large refrigerator, a dishwasher, a washer and dryer, and a second bathroom. Step 7: Would we do it again? As we were wrapping up the project, my partner asked me, "What would you think about selling this place to someone looking for a 'move-in ready' home and taking on a bigger renovation project?" My initial reaction was a firm, "No way!" However, I considered the idea after reflecting on how much we had learned through this process and how we could renovate more efficiently if we did it again in Italy. It would be nice to have extra space for family and friends. A few weeks later, I discussed the topic again and said, "Well, maybe…." Insights: Renovating a house is like a journey that unveils what needs to be addressed along the way. Living in the house during the renovation posed challenges but brought to light issues we hadn't previously considered. Now that the renovation is complete, we have a charming, cozy home with all the necessary amenities. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- The Real Estate Market in Our Area - Southern Tuscany
PART 141: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's explore the real estate market in southern Tuscany. Step 2: The Interview I thought it would be interesting to interview our fantastic real estate agent, Sandro Marucci, from the agency "Eco Casa Immobiliare," part of the brand "Agente Immobiliare Sostenibile." https://www.ecocasaimmobiliare.it/web/ I want to learn about the real estate market in southern Tuscany and gather insights on specific areas and cities. My goal is to understand the advantages of living in particular locations, the prices of houses, and the buying process for foreigners. Let's jump right in and get started. Step 3: The questions What is the real estate market like here? The real estate market in southern Tuscany is quite diverse. It is essentially a "buyer’s market," meaning there is a greater supply of properties than there is demand. This offers the opportunity to find properties at very advantageous prices, but knowing how to identify and select them wisely is essential. Aside from the more internationally renowned cities and areas, such as Siena, San Gimignano, Pienza, Montalcino, and Montepulciano—which have significantly higher prices per square meter—hidden gems exist in the less famous municipalities. You can find excellent real estate deals in these areas, often priced between 50,000 and 100,000 euros. However, it's worth noting that the farmhouse market operates under its own specific dynamics. Advantages of Southern Tuscany This area is very strategic and has a mix of beautiful landscapes within just a few kilometers. You can visit the hills of the Val d'Orcia, the largest beech forest in Europe on Mount Amiata, Lake Bolsena, and the beaches of Maremma. It also has a rich culture and great food and wine. Since it is in the center of Italy, you can easily travel from here to the north and south of the country. Are there challenges to face living in this area? Getting around the area can be challenging due to a public transport system that is not well organized or widespread. The best way to travel is by car. You can use taxis and buses to reach train stations and airports if you don't have a car. Most of the unique homes are in the historic centers, where parking for cars is not allowed. However, there are usually parking options nearby. The urban areas outside these old villages mostly date back to the 1970s and 1980s. Not every town has a hospital, but services are generally easy to find. You will also find many shops, entertainment options, and sports activities. What are the starting prices of houses in these areas? Siena: House prices range from €2,000 to over €4,000 per square meter in Siena. Generally, prices are higher in the historic center, with peaks near Piazza del Campo and the cathedral. Montalcino: On average, house prices are between €2,000 and €2,400 per square meter. However, prices can easily double in the countryside, where the land has significant wine value. Monte Amiata Area: Prices in this area are much more accessible, averaging around €1,000 per square meter. The real estate market is consistent throughout the region, with larger municipalities like Abbadia San Salvatore (SI) and Castel del Piano (GR) offering the most amenities. The most tourist-friendly municipality is Santa Fiora (GR), while Arcidosso (GR), Seggiano (GR), and Piancastagnaio (SI) are excellent places to explore. Montepulciano's average property prices are between 1,600 and 1,800 euros per square meter, although housing costs are generally lower in the nearby hamlets. The historic center tends to have higher prices, while the surrounding countryside, renowned for its exceptional winemaking, features a distinct housing market of its own. Pienza's average property prices range from 2,200 to 2,600 euros per square meter. Farmhouses in the picturesque surrounding countryside can fetch significantly higher prices based on their location and features. Insights: As many regions of southern Tuscany are currently a buyer's market, there are numerous opportunities to start a new life in Italy. Being comfortable driving in Italy can enhance accessibility and make exploring the Val d'Orcia and surrounding areas much easier. Additionally, having a reliable real estate agent is crucial for identifying neighborhoods that align with your interests and budget. Living in Italy is easy; it just takes that first step. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .