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- Exploring Tuscany
PART 87: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Som e of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. This week, let's explore Tuscany. Step 2: The parts of Tuscany In my experience, Tuscany consists of the towns/cities and rural Tuscany. Let's look at some areas we have explored up to now. Step 3: Towns and Cities Florence and Siena are two major cities in Tuscany. Still, many other beautiful and exciting towns are worth exploring, including Pienza, Montepulciano, San Gimignano, Pisa, Lucca, Volterra, and many others. Let's choose one since this is a blog and not a book. Florence. Step 4: A day in Florence. I've been to Florence four or four times, so for this visit, we decided to let our friend Sandro, who lives in Florence, organize our day. I've seen the Uffizi, the David, the cathedral, the Ponte Vecchio, the historical churches, and the Boboli Gardens on previous visits. So we didn't feel an urgency to do what only first-time visitors to Florence must do and see. "Show us things that you would do on a free day in Florence," we asked our friends. So we piled in his car and started our day on Boboli Hill, from where the most beautiful panorama of the city puts the postcard photos to shame. Parking was easy, and we walked across a piazza and sat on the stone wall looking out over Florence. "I can't find the words," my partner said as we tried to absorb the beauty of the Renaissance city. But we had the whole day before us, so we soon jumped into the car, drove down into the city, parked in an area that only locals would know about, and made our way to the Accademia Gallery. "Since it is off-season and opening right when we get there, maybe we won't have to stand in line." Our friend did not disappoint; when we arrived, there were only three people in line, and in five minutes, we were inside, standing before the David. Though I had seen it before, the statue still took my breath away. My partner had never seen it and kept circling, saying, "I can't believe I am here!" We took our time here, viewing Michelangelo's unfinished works, struggling to free themselves of the stone and circling back to the pulsating life of the David. But the museum started to fill up, so our friend bid us follow him, and we headed towards the cathedral. "Are we going inside?" I asked our local friend as we stood in front of the Duomo. "Not this time," he replied. "Let's look at the 'Gates of Paradise' on the baptistry doors. They are copies but are still magnificent. Then, let's back up to see Brunelleschi's dome, which was almost a miracle of engineering. He pushed design and engineering beyond its limits." Getting the grande view of the dome and the more intimate view of the baptistry doors introduced us to what is unique about Florence: the grand architecture and the beauty in the details. "It's time for a coffee with a view," our guide said. Near the cathedral is the department store "La Rinascente," where, unbeknownst to many, there is an outdoor cafe on the roof. We had to navigate through racks of coats and shirts on sale when we found the elevator behind one of the racks. We were whisked to the top, exited, and immersed in the beauty of Florence from above. We grabbed the best table, ordered coffee and pastry, and relaxed in paradise for a few euros. After our break, we visited the historical San Lorenzo Market, marveling at the incredible produce, meats, fish, and cheeses. We then took a stroll along the Arno, sat down for another coffee with a view of the Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge), and ended up at the Piazza della Signoria, where we snapped photos. "One last stop," our friend said as we made our way towards Palazzo Vecchio, built in 1299 as the City Hall. Instead of entering, our friend led us to an outdoor area with a grand piano with a sign that read "Play me." With lots of encouragement, my partner, an excellent pianist, sat down and started playing "Christmas Time is Near." Before long, we were surrounded by other visitors who wanted to be part of the feeling of Christmas below the Palazzo Vecchio on that cold December night. We concluded our day at our friend's home in Florence, where we made pasta together, shared experiences from our day, and played music together on his piano. It was a perfect day. Step 5: Rural Tuscany: Val d'Orcia When I lived in Rome in the 1980s, I never visited rural Tuscany. I saw the photos of the rolling hills and cypress, and I thought it was pretty but certainly not worth a trip. Then, finally, a few years ago, we drove up to Tuscany, booked an Airbnb in San Quirico, and decided to explore the Val d'Orcia. Rather than following a strict itinerary, we drove through the rolling hills, turned off on some gravel roads, and followed our instincts. "Shall we walk?" I suggested after we had driven for a while. We saw a chapel in the distance, which we later discovered was the Chapel of the Madonna di Vitaleta. As we headed in its direction, at a certain point, we stopped and looked around. The winds had increased, and the golden fields swayed in the breeze. As we turned 360 degrees, we became aware of the interplay of the breeze and the wheat fields, which produced a beautiful, peaceful sound that I can't find the words to describe. After a few moments of silence, my partner said, "This is so beautiful that I can't believe it." He was right. Seeing a photo of the countryside and standing in the swirling fields was like the difference between seeing a painting of the Grand Canyon and standing on the edge. At that moment, I understood what the fuss was about; rural Tuscany, the Val d'Orcia, is genuinely one of the world's most beautiful areas. On our spontaneous drives, we discovered the Abbey of Sant'Antimo, an ancient stone monastery and Romanesque church that tries to keep the tradition of Gregorian chant alive. We drove further and came across a castle-looking structure; we parked our car, strolled right in, and met the owner, who was getting ready for the tourist season. "What is this incredible place? Do you own it?" we asked. "My family owns it. There are apartments where they live, but I organize wine tasting and other events. Would you like to look around?" We were treated to an insider's look at her family life and business within the huge stone buildings. Hiking is another activity that we discovered on our spontaneous drives. Some well-marked trails in the Val d'Orcia (and some lesser-marked ones) gave us a different experience than driving. The people, panoramas, stone houses, and hamlets all seemed right at hand when we were on food, trekking through the hills. We decided to plan our next trip to the area around hiking. Insights: Tuscany has "layers," both in its town and its landscapes. We enjoy peeling away at these layers and discovering what is under by visiting a city or area more than once. Our experience of Florence was so much different than the first time I went because I didn't have a full itinerary of what I needed to see. It was more about experiencing the city through the eyes of our local friend. Even the rural areas, especially the Val d'Orcia, have layers and can be experienced through a planned itinerary, a spontaneous idea, in a car, on foot, or a combination. We have only scratched the surface of Tuscany and we are looking forward to seeing more of what is underneath. More next time. Now on sale for $2.99: My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRKMKPWF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_X2WRQ3PTG2ZDD7AVF6GH Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- The Struggle to Learn Italian
PART 93: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Let's explore the struggle to learn Italian. Step 1: This week, let's explore the challenge of learning the language as one more piece of the puzzle to make life in Italy complete. Step 2: I admit it: I had an advantage. I lived in Italy during my college years, and I didn't have the option of not learning Italian. If I didn't learn the language, I would have flunked my classes. Before moving to Rome, I had taken an adult Education evening class in Italian for two years. I thought that my Italian was pretty good until I arrived in Italy. Everyone seemed to be talking so fast that I couldn't understand a thing, and when I tried to speak, I got all tongue-tied. I initially experienced a period of panic as I fell behind in my classes and didn't understand what the professors were saying. However, I continued to attend my language lessons, and I made a more significant effort to speak Italian, build relationships with locals, and study systematically. Then the unthinkable happened. It was January of my first year, and I was sitting in my philosophy class at the Angelicum in Rome. Suddenly, like a rush, something in my brain switched gears. I suddenly began to understand what the professor was saying without having to translate it in my head. How did that happen, and how can my path to learning Italian help others who share my goal? Step 3: Reframing the question Is learning Italian a struggle? "Hell yeah!" I've heard from many an expat. But does it have to be? Learning Italian is an art rather than a struggle. This reframes the task and allows me, the student, to be flexible in my learning approach. Step 4: Learning styles To transform my approach to learning Italian from a struggle to an art, I need to first understand my learning style. As a former high school teacher with 25 years of experience and about 35 students in my classroom, I have witnessed different learning styles every day. Some of my students were auditory learners, who learned best by listening to podcasts or language tapes. Like myself, others were visual learners and needed pictures, videos, and other visual stimuli to grasp a concept. There were also independent, group, and kinetic learners who needed to learn through some physical action. What type of learner am I? In a previous blog, I explored this, so here, I will state that we can get frustrated with trying to learn a language because we are using a learning style that doesn't fit. For instance, listening to tapes or unstructured independent learning may not work for everyone. To determine what type of learner we are, we can look back at what has worked for us in the past or try different learning methods to see which one works best for us. Step 5: What is most crucial I will begin this section by sharing a brief account of my experience in the classroom. I used to teach at a school where the principal decided to switch to block scheduling. This meant that instead of my students attending my class for 55 minutes every day, they would meet for 100 minutes on a rotating schedule. For instance, in week 1, they would attend my class twice, and in week 2, thrice, and so on. My responsibility was to teach my high school students Italian 1A in the first semester and 1B in the second semester. Initially, it seemed like a good idea, as it allowed for project-based learning and longer time for student engagement. However, it turned out to be the opposite, as learning took a nosedive, and the students retained very little. Why? Because the crucial factor was missing: CONSISTENCY. They learned more by meeting 55 minutes daily rather than longer times every other day. Learning Italian as an art can only happen if I have two things in place: CONSISTENCY and STRUCTURE. Another example: Some years ago, I had a book written in my head about a dog living on the Acropolis, but I could never find the time or mood to write it down. Finally, I decided to go to school 15 minutes early every day and devote that time to writing. 15 minutes felt doable, so it didn't take a great effort to do that. After two years of working for 15 minutes a day, I completed the book. It is the same with learning Italian. I will learn more by being consistent than by spending hours studying Italian when I start to feel guilty. Starting small is the key. If one starts to study Italian for 15 minutes a day, every day or at least Monday-Friday, they will learn the language over time. Consistency, consistency, consistency. The other key is being systematic. This means that I have a system in place: a set time and place where I study/learn, a definite textbook that I go through, chapter by chapter, and other materials that I use systemically without jumping around. If I get on the internet or Youtube and start poking around for Italian materials every day, I am not being systematic. Finding a learning path/textbook/course and working at it consistently is systematic. Step 6: Speaking "I can't speak Italian, but I can understand it," I've heard over and over again. Many times, we let fear hold us back. We may think that others will laugh at us or feel self-conscious while trying to speak what we are learning. But that is all in our heads. In my experience, locals are happy when we share their language. The two factors that helped me to speak Italian were: Keeping a pad in my pocket with new words and phrases I wanted to learn and using them throughout the day Developing friendships/relationships with locals Step 6: The cost of not learning Italian Living in Italy, whether part-time or full-time, without learning the Italian language comes with a price. It means I will always be perceived as a foreigner, an outsider looking in from the outside. While many Italians do speak English, relying on Google Translate or any other translation tool is not enough for me to fully experience the culture. Therefore, I must learn the language to have a complete cultural experience. Step 7: Which path to choose? Learning Italian is as simple as: Making a decision Choosing a learning path Being consistent in my learning Choosing which learning path is different for each learner. I need consistency, accountability, and assignments, so taking an online or in-person course works best for me. For someone else, buying a textbook off Amazon works. For someone else, private tutoring. The critical step is that I make the decision, that I choose a learning path (even to try it out) and that I am consistent. Step 8: Studying in Italy What about studying in Italy? A huge number of Italian courses are offered in Italy, most by private schools or companies. However, the most respected that I know about are the full immersion courses offered by the University for Foreigners in Perugia ( https://www.unistrapg.it/en/node/30 ). I am sure there are others, and you are welcome to share your experiences with others in the comments. Insights: Learning Italian can become an art rather than a struggle. Three factors can help: making a decision, finding a learning path, and being consistent in learning. More next time. SECOND EDITION NOW ON SALE FOR $2.99! “She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome.” https://a.co/d/4Bx0Eh3 . Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Moving to Italy is Easy
PART 94: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Let's explore how easy it is to establish a life in Italy Step 1: Agatha Christie is one of my favorite authors, and her novel "Murder is Easy" inspired this blog. Not because it is about killing someone but because what seems complex can become easy, depending on how one goes about it. Step 2: When someone asks us how the process of moving to or living in Italy has been, our first response is always: we were surprised at how easy it has been. It is true; what seemed impossible has become an easy process of establishing a life in Italy. Step 3: Challenges and solutions. When we decided to move to Italy, we had to figure out how. Some of the challenges and questions we had included: Residency and citizenship Where to live? How to find a house? Rent or buy? Full-time or part-time? How do we figure out how to make it happen? Step 4: Residency and citizenship I spent several months researching residency and citizenship requirements for various European countries at the beginning of our journey to a life in Italy. Initially, we thought our only option was to find a country with the easiest residency or citizenship requirements and choose that one. It took us a while to realize that we had other options. Due to our obligations in California, we could only be away part time. We then understood that we didn't have to choose between full-time residency in Europe and not living in Europe at all. We discovered that we could follow the Schengen Zone guidelines, living in Europe for three months at a time while maintaining our California residency. Once we realized this, we no longer felt pressured to search for a country with easy residency requirements. Instead, we could choose a country that suited us best. Given my previous experience of living in Italy during my university years and the presence of many friends there, Italy became the obvious choice. Step 5: Where to live We researched various websites, joined online expat groups, and explored different areas in Italy to find the perfect town or area to live in. However, the more people we spoke with and the more information we gathered, the more confused we became. At that point, my partner suggested, "Why don't we build on what we have rather than start from zero. We have friends in Puglia; why don't we live there? Then we can figure the rest out along the way." Following visits to Orte, Perugia, Assisi, and the outskirts of Rome, we decided to rent a house in Puglia from a friend of ours. It turned out to be one of the best decisions we made. Renting a house was a great first step. During our Christmas vacation in Puglia, we visited the house our friend was renovating. It had two bathrooms, an open kitchen, and a rooftop terrace – it felt like it had been made for us. We asked, "Would you rent it to us for a few months?" he agreed. We flew back in the summer and started our first months living in wonderful Italy. Step 6: Full or part-time? We initially planned to live in Italy full-time, but we faced many obstacles, including work. It took us a while to realize that living in two places is doable if we control our expenses and follow the guidelines of the Schengen Zone (see previous blog on this). After renting our friend's house in Puglia for two months, we asked if we could rent it for 12 months and stay there twice a year for 2-3 months each time. After our first 18 months in Italy, it became clearer to us what we were looking for in our Italian experience. So, we recently moved to Tuscany and bought a home in the Monte Amiata area. Step 7: What is the point of these stories? Moving to Italy has been a smooth process for us due to these factors: - We understood that it wasn't necessary to commit to living here all year round; we could spend part of the year here. - We realized that we didn't need to have all the logistics of living in a foreign country figured out beforehand; learning along the way is part of the adventure. - We found that building friendships with locals gave us a sense of family and helped us navigate the red tape and uncertainties. - We understood that our attitudes play a significant role in shaping our experience in Italy. Insights: Living in Italy can be an easy and exciting adventure if we open ourselves up to the experience, make new friends, and learn to let go and allow things to unfold in their own time. More next time. SECOND EDITION NOW ON SALE FOR $2.99! “She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome.” https://a.co/d/4Bx0Eh3 . Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Dryer or No Dryer in Italy?
PART 98: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we are discovering some gems that are worth shar ing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week let's stay close to home and explore whether we need a clothes dryer in our house in Tuscany. Step 2: It didn't take long to discover that most Italian households do not have a dryer. Whether because of electricity costs or the preference to dry laundry in the fresh air, most go without a dryer and do not miss it. But as two Californians establishing a life in Italy, what about us? Step 3: "We don't need a dryer," I told my partner once we purchased a house in Italy. "We can hang things outside in the summer, and in the rainy season, we can dry them on an electric clothesline. I have it all figured out!" In Puglia, we used to dry clothes on the terrace during the summer and hang them over our radiators in the winter. Since it was common to burn fields in our area throughout the year, many times out clothes hanging outside would take on the smell of smoke and we would have to wash them over again. During the rainy season we were tired of having damp clothes all over the house. The electric heating clothesline that I bought seemed to be the perfect solution. Step 4: The electric clothesline The idea of a heating element embedded in an indoor clothesline sounded amazing. I would just need to hang my clothes on the clothesline, turn it on, and in about 30 minutes, they would be dry. Right? Wrong. After my clothes remained damp even after hanging on the clothesline for hours, I decided to read the instructions. It turned out that in order for the heating element to work, the clothes needed to be spread across the top of the clothesline. However, with just two t-shirts across, all the space was already occupied, and I still had pants, socks, underwear, and five more t-shirts to dry. "Maybe I can lay them on top of each other, and the heat from underneath will dry them all," I thought. Right? Wrong. Through trial and error, I found that the electric clothesline can dry a couple of t-shirts or a pair of pants in about 4 hours. I had no idea how much electricity it was using, and drying such a small amount at a time wouldn't work. So now the clothesline sits in a corner of our attic. Step 5: The laundromat "I don't mind going to the laundromat once a week. I can even do your clothes if you want," I said to my partner after we got rid of the clothesline. It didn't seem like a big deal, since the washers at the laundromat in Italy take about 30 minutes, and drying takes about 45. We discovered a great laundromat in a nearby town and started going there every Monday afternoon. Since we had a lot of laundry each week, we typically used all four washing machines and two large dryers. Doing the laundry, which includes loading the car, sorting, washing, drying, putting the clothes back in the laundry bags, and going back and forth to the car, took up the entire afternoon. So, going to the laundromat consumed one whole afternoon every week when we were in Italy (we stay there for 2-3 months at a time). After a month of this weekly ritual, we reassessed our situation. Time in Italy is so precious and we have a lot of things that we wanted to do besides sit in a laundromat. We decided that we needed another solution. Step 6: The dryer In the end, we arrived at a solution that would fit us. We will buy a dryer. We visited our local electronic store and Euronics to explore our dryer options. We must stack it on top of our washer, which has a nonstandard depth. Yes," they said, "we can get that for you." But we don't have a way to vent the dryer to the outside. "That's no problem; most dryers we sell are like that," they replied. "The door has to open from the left side because of the wall," we insisted. "Well, that is more complicated. Let's look." They looked and found one, though they are rare with that nonstandard depth. We found the dryer we wanted but had to leave for California in a few days. "Can it be delivered by Thursday?" we inquired. Their response was, "No, it usually takes about 2 weeks." So we found our dryer and we are going to order it the day after we return to Tuscany. It feels like we came full circle! Insights: Balancing what we are used to in our own culture with adapting to what is common in another culture is an art learned through experience. We tried non-dryer options and ultimately decided that owning our own dryer will free up precious time and simplify the basic task of keeping clothes clean. More next time. Now on sale for $2.99: My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRKMKPWF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_X2WRQ3PTG2ZDD7AVF6GH Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Being Gay in Tuscany
PART 97: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we are discovering some gems that are worth sharing. Some of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. This week let's explore being gay in Tuscany. Is the mentality here accepting? We will share some of our experiences. Some facts: Step 2: Some history In 2004, Tuscany became the first Italian region to ban discrimination against homosexuals in areas such as employment, education, public services, and accommodations. The city of Pisa hosted the first march opposing violence against homosexuals in 1979, known as Pisa79. In Pistoia, the first monument in Tuscany was erected in memory of the homosexual victims of Nazi extermination. The memorial, located in the parterre of Piazza San Francesco, was inaugurated in 2015. These and other events reflect the inclusive culture of the region. Our experiences: Step 3: I'm well beyond making excuses for who I am or how I live. However, I was also curious about how open-minded the community in the Tuscany area, where we were planning on moving to, was. After spending two years in Puglia, where gay people were everywhere and being gay wasn't an issue, we weren't so sure about this part of Italy. Step 4: It's important not to generalize; just because someone has a problem with gay people or any other group, it doesn't mean the whole town or region thinks that way. In fact, if I think back on the only times that I have been called a "faggot" on the street, it happened in New York City and Palm Springs! So, an incident does not represent a mentality, and I wanted to keep this in mind as we got to know the Monte Amiata region of Tuscany. Step 5: Our visit and our realtor Last year, when we were considering settling in the Monte Amiata area, I asked our realtor/friend if a gay couple like us would encounter any issues. He seemed surprised and replied, "It's the 21st century, isn't it? Nobody I know would have any issues with that." Step 6: Our priest It was during the first week of living in Arcidosso that I met our local priest, who oversees 3 or 4 local churches, including one on the street above our house. When I introduced myself as being from California, he asked me if I had a family - a wife and kids with me. "No, I have a partner," I replied. Without skipping a beat, he asked, "Do you think your partner would help carry the statue during the procession in a few weeks? You look like strong guys." Later, we ran into him on the street with another gay couple visiting from Palm Springs. "Tell them to move here, and tell your other friends to move here too," he said. Step 7: Our church lady Does every town have a church lady? We do. She lives a few houses down, attends church every day, visits her late husband's grave daily, and always takes time to chat when we pass each other in the neighborhood. She comes to our door to tell us local news, asks about the renovation of our house, and seemed sad when we told her we were leaving until September. It doesn't seem to matter to her in the least that we are a gay couple. Step 8: Everyday life We interact with many people in our community, including our realtor and their family and friends, our contractor and their friends, local shopkeepers, and others we frequently chat with. In our daily lives here in Tuscany, being a gay couple doesn't seem to be on anyone's radar. Step 9: Discos, bars and clubs My partner and I don't drink much and we have much life experience. Because of that, we no longer find going to discos, bars, or clubs appealing. It's like we've been there and done that. As a result, we haven't been seeking out these places, so I can't provide much firsthand information about what's out there. At this stage in our lives, we prefer spending time with friends over a good meal, going on a great hike with a group, or taking road trips with friends from our local area and California. Insights: In this blog, our reflections are based on our initial experiences in Monte Amiata, Tuscany. So far, being gay in Tuscany feels like having green eyes in Tuscany—people don't seem to notice, or if they do, they don't care. There is an open attitude, which we appreciate, and it adds to our sense of feeling at home here. I promise to write a follow-up blog on the same topic a year from now, based on more experiences in our little piece of paradise in Tuscany. More next time. SECOND EDITION NOW ON SALE FOR $2.99! “She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome.” https://a.co/d/4Bx0Eh3 . Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Making a Mexican Dinner in Italy
PART 99: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: "Why don't we invite our local friends over for a Mexican dinner. We can make tacos and enchiladas," my partner suggested. Being from California, going out for Mexican food or making tacos at home is second nature for us. How would our experience be different in Italy? Come with us on our adventure. Step 2: The tortilla challenge. When we initially set out to hunt down ingredients for our dream dinner, the first task was to see if we could find soft corn and flour tortillas. We discovered that many supermarkets have a small section of Mexican ingredients. However, Most consisted of prepackaged taco seasoning, cans of refried beans, and hard, pre-formed corn tortillas; some had large, soft flour tortillas. We grabbed both types of tortillas but left the beans and spice since we had brought our Mexican seasonings from California. We needed soft corn tortillas for the enchiladas since flour tortilla enchiladas produce a slimy mess. So, we broadened our search for soft corn tortillas. After reaching out on social media, we eventually found "corn" tortillas. Large tortillas made of corn and flour were softer than typical corn tortillas. Nevertheless, they were the closest thing we could find, so we grabbed them. Step 3: Fresh ingredients. We needed onions, cheddar cheese, cilantro, and jalapeno peppers as fresh ingredients for tacos and enchiladas. Finding the onions was easy. Finding the cheddar cheese was a bit more complicated. We found "cheddar" at our supermarket. It looked like cheddar and smelled like cheddar, but it was more rubbery than the cheddar we are used to. Nevertheless, we bought it. For the cilantro and jalapeno, we went to our local grocer, whose shop carries just about everything. He said he would track them down for us and asked us to return in a few days, which we did. Upon returning a few days later, he shook his head. "I am so sorry," he said. "I cannot find them. But I have an idea. I will loan you my Metro card. You can pick up something for me and find your cilantro and peppers." Step 4: Our Metro adventure We visited a Metro store in Italy, similar to Costco, but only accessible to business owners and their employees. To gain entry, we had to show our card and a letter from our produce supplier. After a short wait, the staff let us in. We explored the aisles and found outdoor furniture, household items, bulk food items, and rows of refrigerated and frozen goods. We also stumbled upon a section with Mexican food, although the selection was similar to what we could find in our local supermarket. The highlight of our visit was discovering fresh cilantro and a box of jalapeno peppers in the produce area. We were thrilled with our findings and considered the trip worthwhile as we checked out and drove the 45 minutes back home. Step 5: Taco sauce and sour cream We bought tomato sauce at our local supermarket and used it as a base for making our enchilada sauce. We also found some mild taco sauce in a jar at the supermarket, but we prefer hot sauce. We bought it anyway, thinking we could still use it and enhance the flavor. Since sour cream could be challenging to find and we didn't want to make it from scratch, we opted for plain yogurt. Step 6: Ground beef We decided to make beef tacos and enchiladas. We decided to spice up the meat to make it the dominant flavor. We got good quality ground beef from our butcher and were ready to create our masterpiece. Step 7: Bringing it all together My partner enjoys cooking Mexican food, so he dedicated an afternoon to preparing for the 10 friends we had invited. We had bought avocados the day before, so we made a large bowl of guacamole, which turned out fantastic. Tortilla chips are readily available, so we snacked on chips and dip to keep us going during the preparation. Step 8: Drinks We had planned to make margaritas, but we ultimately decided that it would be too much to handle. Since our friends kept bugging us to bring something, we asked them to bring fizzy water and some Coronas with lime. Step 9: How it went Some of our local friends had tried Mexican food before, while others had not. We were hopeful that both newcomers and seasoned enthusiasts would enjoy the meal. It was a pleasant evening, so everyone gathered on the terrace to indulge in the guacamole while savoring the Coronas. We arranged a station for the tacos, with all the toppings, seasoned ground beef, and crispy taco shells. I am picky when it comes to Mexican food, but I have to say that the tacos turned out excellent. Everyone relished the mild spiciness, which was complemented by the diced tomatoes, shredded lettuce, and cheese. Our local friends who were new to Mexican food loved the enchiladas, but I found them too gooey. The corn tortillas, mixed with some flour, became somewhat slimy, creating a texture that didn't appeal to me. But I kept my mouth shut and let everyone enjoy their experience. Step 10: Dessert We brought some boxes of See's candies from California and served them for dessert. In California, there is no better chocolate confection than See's, and we expected our local Italian friends to feel the same way. "Have another one," I urged. "They are a bit too sweet," a local friend said. I was surprised. Too sweet? Then, I realized that cultural differences also influence taste. Sweets, cookies, and pastries in Italy have a different flavor profile than those we are used to, and the same goes for locals exposed to some of our flavors. What tastes perfect to us may be too sweet for others. Step 11: What we learned We learned that preparing a Mexican meal for friends in Italy can be a fun experience. Next time, if we can't find 100% soft corn tortillas, we will make tacos with hard shells and skip the enchiladas. We also need to find somewhere to grow our own cilantro and jalapenos! Thirdly, discovering and respecting cultural differences in tastes and flavors is part of the adventure of living in Italy! More next time. Now on sale for $2.99: My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRKMKPWF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_X2WRQ3PTG2ZDD "AVF6GH Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Spotlight on Nocturnal Vatican
PART 101: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Italy for part of the year; we have just switched to Spring and Fall (rather than Summer and Winter). Step 1: As we explore sights in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. Let's travel to Rome and explore the Vatican Museums at night. Step 2: Background. We want to use our home in Italy (Tuscany) as a base to explore as much of Italy and Europe as we can. We decided to visit Rome to experience the Vatican museums, but it was tourist season. Would the crowds make it impossible? Since I used to live in Rome, I have been to the Vatican Museums more than once, so I didn't need to see the whole collection again. "Wouldn't it be nice," I asked my friend in Rome, "to return to the museums and only focus on a few things?" He agreed. We knew that the museum is open at night during the summer and fall months, the crowds are fewer, the lighting is eerily wonderful, and the atmosphere is unique. So we pre-arranged our tickets, bypassed the line, and immediately went inside. Step 3: Sights. We had to decide what to focus on and what to skip at the museum. My friend was interested in the Etruscan collection, and I wanted to spend time with the Greco-Roman statues and the paintings (Pinacoteca). We started in Ancient Egypt but quickly walked through, dodged some small tourist groups, glanced at the collection of Assyrian artifacts, got lost, asked a guard for directions, and then decided to go to the "Braccio Nuovo," where larger statuary from ancient Rome is displayed. There were some tourist groups, but it was relatively quiet. Walking down the vast hall, we headed towards statues that caught our eye. A touching statue of "Silenus with Dionysus's child in his arms" beautifully captured the bond between man and child. We also stood under the "Augustus of Prima Porta," where the emperor was displayed as a strong, muscular military man (imperial propaganda), with his arm outstretched as if speaking to his soldiers. We also saw the bust of Hadrian and got into a discussion about whether he was handsome or not. The personification of the Nile from the Temple of Isis found in S. Maria sopra Minerva might be the most impressive statue in the wing. After admiring the 2,000-year-old mosaic floor we were standing on, we made our way to the Etruscan collection. Step 4: Etruscans. The collection's star is at the beginning: the 5th century BC Mars of Todi. It is one of the few bronze statues from the ancient world. The statue depicts a warrior influenced by Greek sculpture preparing to pour a libation. The inscription uses an ancient form of the Umbrian language. The statue is truly amazing. We then moved on to the various sarcophagi, made from stone to terra cotta; the figures were all reclining, symbolizing the Etruscan belief that death was a type of rest. It was astonishing to see the faces of those who lived thousands of years before us, hundreds of years before the founding of Rome, staring up at us. At a certain point, I turned to my friend and remarked, "We are the only ones here." It was true; other parts of the museum attract more tourists than the Etruscan collection. I wanted to spend my time on something other than the endless ancient vases in the adjoining rooms, so we quickly glanced at these and then resumed our quest. Step 5: Choices and highlights. At this point, we had to make some choices. Therefore, we decided to leave the Museum of Paintings for another time and go in search of sculpture. My favorite statue from the ancient world is the Laocoon, which we found in the Statues Courtyard. The Laocoon dates back to 40-50 BC and depicts Laocoon, a priest of Apollo for the city of Troy. Laocoon is warning the Trojans about bringing the wooden horse within the city's walls. Athena and Poseidon, who were against the Trojans, sent two serpents to stop Laocoon and his sons from preventing the catastrophe. I was able to get extremely close to the statue, something that is impossible during the day. From the front and then from the side, I saw the faces of Laocoon and his sons as the serpents wound around them and began pulling them into the sea. Expressions of agony and sadness are carved across their faces, together with the realization of destiny: that no matter how much they struggled, they could not prevent what the gods had decreed. It is a sad yet magnificent sculpture, portraying humanity as struggling against destiny. Step 6: The Raphael Rooms and Sistine Chapel. In my 25 years of teaching high school social studies I integrated art history into my World History courses. One memorable experience was discussing Raphael's "The School of Athens" with my students as part of our Renaissance unit. My friend and I stopped and admired the magnificent work for a few minutes until some loud tourists approached and broke the spell. So, we moved on to explore the former Papal apartments, where we marveled at the historical portrayal of the Papacy as both a worldly and spiritual power. In one frescoed room, the image of the Pope crowning a king captured the essence of that era. Upon entering the Sistine Chapel, we encountered some bustling crowds. After looking around, we decided to save a longer visit for another time. Step 7: Eating. We were hungry and hoped to visit a nice Bistrot in one of the museum's courtyards, but unfortunately, it was closed. Then, my friend suggested a great Mexican restaurant nearby, but when we called, they told us they were fully booked. As we were about to leave the museum area, I decided to ask one of the guards at the entrance for a recommendation. He directed us to a newer, less touristy restaurant. We followed his advice and enjoyed a delicious chicken dinner there. Insights. From this experience, we learned that visiting attractions at night or during off-peak hours, asking locals for recommendations, and avoiding crowds can significantly enhance one's experience in Rome. Despite not seeing as much at the Vatican museums as we had at other times, we had a more intimate experience, allowing us to truly appreciate the art. Overall, it was the best visit I've ever had. More next time. SECOND EDITION NOW ON SALE FOR $2.99! “She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome.” https://a.co/d/4Bx0Eh3 . Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Pathways to Learning Italian
PART 102: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas and towns in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's explore specific pathways to learn Italian. Step 2: Background In our previous blogs, we delved into the process of learning Italian and the fundamental elements of language acquisition. As previously emphasized, consistency is the most crucial component. For instance, dedicating 15 minutes to studying Italian daily is more effective than cramming in 3-4 hours sporadically due to guilt. The fundamental components of learning Italian are: 1. Commitment to learning 2. Selecting a learning approach that aligns with one's learning style 3. Consistency 4. Applying what one learns into practice Today, let's concentrate on various learning approaches. Step 3: Learning styles In my 25 years of teaching, I've learned that everyone has unique learning styles. Some students are visual learners, others learn best through audio, and some are kinesthetic learners who prefer activities. Some students excel with projects, while others do better with quizzes or a combination. I've also noticed that some students thrive in group learning while others prefer to work independently. We all have our own learning styles, and sometimes learners, including adults, become frustrated not because they can't learn but because they are using a learning style that doesn't suit them. Through trial and error, I have discovered that understanding my own optimal learning style is crucial in choosing the best learning path. For example, I learn best in a classroom with assignments and deadlines. As much as I wish it were otherwise, that approach works best for me. Step 4: Structured in-person learning. I want to provide some examples of in-person learning opportunities near me in Southern California. These types of classes are available in many metropolitan areas; just do a Google search. Italian Cultural Institute: https://iiclosangeles.esteri.it/en/lingua-e-cultura/i-corsi-di-lingua/ Pasadena Community College: https://pasadena.edu/academics/divisions/english-languages-esl/languages/italian.php Glendale Community College: https://www.glendale.edu/academics/degree-certificate-programs/certificate-programs-gainful-employment/italian-language Santa Monica College: https://www.smc.edu/academics/academic-departments/modern-languages/italian.php Step 4: Structured online learning Structured online courses are "live" classes with assignments and deadlines, not self-paced. This type of course works better for me than self-paced, but everyone is different. Pasadena Language Center: https://pasadenalanguage.com/weekly-class-schedule.php Palomar College: https://www.palomar.edu/onlineeducation/italian/ University of Wisconsin: https://continuingstudies.wisc.edu/classes/italian-1/ Step 5: Self-Paced Online Learning Self-paced learning requires the learner to be disciplined and organized. Some excellent self-paced offerings are: Wellesley College: https://www1.wellesley.edu/italianonline Irvine Valley College: https://www.ed2go.com/ivccommunityed/online-courses/instant-italian/ University of New Hampshire: https://training.unh.edu/course/instant-italian-self-paced-tutorial Step 5: Individual tutoring I have tutored Italian to individuals and small groups for several years and'd like to share my experience. Tutoring can be effective when the learner is also enrolled in a systematic online or in-person course. In other words, tutoring works best when it is just one part of the learning process. In my experience as a tutor, those not simultaneously enrolled in a course do not make much progress. Adults who seek a tutor for Italian typically do so for leisure and are not inclined to do homework or assignments between tutoring sessions. As a result, the tutoring sessions often end up focusing on learning words and phrases rather than building a comprehensive understanding and practical use of the language. Based on my experience, I advise against hiring a tutor if you are not enrolled in an Italian course. Even if you are taking a course, consider whether a tutor is really necessary. Step 6: Self-study, including software learning Some independent learners thrive when they study on their own. Give them the right textbook or learning software; they are off and running. Some of the tools that I've found effective in this regard are: Rosetta Stone: I used Rosetta Stone in my classroom. Students engaged in interactive learning Monday through Thursday, and on Fridays, they used Rosetta Stone. Students enjoyed it, especially the activities in which they spoke using the microphone, and the software corrected their pronunciation. Like tutoring, Rosetta Stone can be an effective tool to supplement learning but can't replace a course or textbook. Textbooks: There are many great Italian textbooks out there. I can't claim to know which ones are better than others, but a few that I like for beginners include: 1. "Italian in 10 minutes a day" https://a.co/d/2lq7XXy : I like this book because it is very visual and includes some fun activities. It's a great first step for beginners. 2. "Italian Made Simple" https://a.co/d/0SIlW83 : This book is designed for self-learners and delves deeper into Italian grammar compared to the previous book. 3. "Complete Italian Step-by-Step" https://a.co/d/6Ux8YCk : This comprehensive self-learning book on Italian includes more grammar explanations and exercises. Step 7: Full immersion learning Full immersion learning involves living in an environment where only Italian is spoken and attending classes conducted in Italian. Various programs offer this type of experience, but the most renowned and respected ones are the courses provided at the University for Foreigners in Perugia. Upon enrollment, students take an entrance exam and are then grouped with others at the same language proficiency level. The university offers both distance and in-person courses, with an emphasis on in-person. More information can be found here: https://www.unistrapg.it/en/studying-at-unistrapg Italian courses last as little as four weeks up to a quarter of the semester. More information on course duration can be found here: https://www.unistrapg.it/en/studying-at-unistrapg/italian-language-and-culture-courses/corsi/italian-language-courses . Insights: Choosing a learning path can be as individual as assembling a fitness regimen. Am I a jogger, a weightlifter, or a walker? Which activities best align with my goals and aspirations? I hope that the learning path examples provided in this blog will assist others in creating their own path to learning the Italian language. More next time. SECOND EDITION NOW ON SALE FOR $2.99! “She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome.” https://a.co/d/4Bx0Eh3 . Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Chasing Down Spirituality in Italy
PART: 103. It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we are discovering some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. Let's explore a personal topic this week: chasing down a spiritual connection in Italy. Step 2: Mentor Teacher Advice In the final years of my teaching career in Los Angeles, I mentored new educators. Due to the high attrition rate (up to 44% of teachers leave within the first 5 years), my school district established a program in which experienced teachers guided new teachers for two years. One piece of advice I always imparted to new teachers was to "live the type of life that you want your students to have." I emphasized this because it's easy for those in service-oriented professions (such as teachers, ministers, and social workers) to become so consumed by helping others that they neglect their own well-being. After witnessing the challenges my new teachers face and reflecting on my own experiences, I identified three levels of self-care crucial for effectiveness: physical, emotional, and spiritual. While these levels are interconnected, I want to specifically discuss the spiritual dimension in this blog. Step 3: "Spirituality" I understand that spirituality can mean different things to different people. I want to take some time to reflect on my own experience of spirituality and how that translates into our life in Italy. How do I find ways to nourish my spirit? How do I find peace of mind when I'm in turmoil? Where do I find a sense of meaning and purpose when things feel out of control? I will share some spiritual practices that work for me here in Italy. Step 4: Smart Feet Many years ago, I first came across the concept of having "smart feet'' at a 12-step meeting (Al Anon). I was dealing with a loved one's addiction and struggling to cope. Around the same time, a close friend unexpectedly passed away, and I found myself sinking into depression. Despite this, I continued attending meetings and hearing the message about "smart feet": "I cannot control what I feel, but I CAN control what I do." In my case, I felt like isolating myself, but I believed that wouldn't be good for me. So, I took contrary action and decided to have "smart feet": I reached out to my friends, sought counseling, and actively engaged in life rather than withdrawing. I didn't feel like doing any of it, but I knew I could make healthy choices regardless of my feelings. I am grateful that I was able to navigate through that period of depression and learned valuable lessons along the way. The concept of having "smart feet" has significantly impacted how I incorporate spirituality into my life. Instead of being only an internal, contemplative activity, my spiritual practices almost always involve physical movement and deliberate choices. Step 5: The Walk When I'm in California, I bike every evening after dinner. In Italy, I prefer walking because riding on cobblestones is difficult. The purpose of both activities is the same: taking a walk in the evening in Italy is a spiritual practice for me. During that time, I reflect on my day, set aside any worries or obsessions, and focus on what I'm thankful for. During my evening walks in town, I often take breaks to admire the scenery, explore historic churches, or simply gaze at the beautiful buildings and sky. Without this evening pause, I tend to get lost in my mental "to-do" lists, over-plan future events, or dwell on past mistakes. The evening walk (or ride) helps me pause and reconnect with my spirit, returning me to a place of tranquility. The stunning landscapes of Italy serve as incredible inspiration for my evening strolls. Step 6: Unlocked churches I visit churches in Italy for various reasons. Sometimes, I appreciate the art and culture, and other times, I explore historical tombs or monuments. Other times, I enter an unlocked church specifically to find the sanctuary candle, which allows me to sit, reflect, and express gratitude. Italy has plenty of unlocked churches, providing opportunities to escape the hustle and bustle of daily life and find a peaceful environment. Whether walking or exploring a new area, I sometimes seek out unlocked churches to rejuvenate my spirit. Step 7: Trekking Reconnecting with nature allows me to experience serenity and a connection with the divine. Driving through beautiful landscapes moves me less than trekking through a forest, up a hill, or along a cliff. When I'm not immersed in nature regularly, something is missing. Living next to Monte Amiata provides plenty of hiking opportunities. We went on a few hikes last summer, but the cold kept us indoors when we returned in the winter. I'm excited to return in the Fall to reconnect with nature on Monte Amiata. Step 8: Monastic spirituality I have a special connection to living monasteries. Something about the Gregorian chants, the monks, and the overall atmosphere makes me feel part of a different world. I always feel a unique sense of peace and tranquility when I visit a living monastery. When I say "living" monastery, I mean a monastery still populated by monks or nuns. I find these places more spiritually moving than abandoned monasteries, which are just historical monuments. In our area, we've visited the Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore in Tuscany ( https://www.monteolivetomaggiore.it/ ) and the new monastery, still under construction, of Siloe near Grosseto ( http://www.monasterodisiloe.it/ ). Monte Oliveto is a fully functioning historical monastery with a beautiful abbey church, an organic farm, a store, a guest house, and a welcoming community of monks. The Gregorian chant services on weekends are incredibly moving. The grounds are also worth exploring, with forests, frescoes, vineyards, and wine tasting. The Siloe monastery is being created by a group of monks who were inspired to form a new community, detached from their surroundings yet connected to the modern world. The architecture reflects their inspiring vision. The monastery also has a small guesthouse available for visitors. Step 9: Setting Sundays apart My spirituality has evolved over the years, and I still like to set aside Sunday mornings to focus on that part of my life. If we do not go to Monte Oliveto, we usually drive to the ancient abbey of Sant'Antimo ( https://www.antimo.it/ ), where we participate in the service. There are only a few nuns there, in contrast to the thriving monastic community of the past. But with a history that stretches back to the time of Charlemagne and situated in a beautiful area of Tuscany, visiting Sant'Antimo is a great way to start our week. Since Sant'Antimo is in the Val d'Orcia, we usually continue our Sundays by hiking or driving to explore a new area before returning to our home in Arcidosso. Insights: Spirituality varies from person to person, and as we settle into our lives in Italy, I am exploring ways to nurture myself on all three levels: physical, emotional, and spiritual. Italy has so much to offer to nourish anyone's concept of spirituality. More next time. SECOND EDITION NOW ON SALE FOR $2.99! “She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome.” https://a.co/d/4Bx0Eh3 . Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- The Joys of Living in Italy
PART 104: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we are discovering some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week let's explore some of the joys of living in Italy, even part-time! Step 2: Culture Living in Italy brings the joy of being part of American and European cultures. The more time we spend in Italy, the more I realize that things that I thought were absolutes are more flexible, people I believed fit into categories are more complex, and detaching from one's own culture, at least for part of the year, can give greater insight into what is important and what is not. In Italy, access to culture is easier than in our area in California. Visiting major museums, attending classical music concerts, and exploring historical sites is simple. We can jump in our car in Tuscany and drive to the neighboring town to experience these cultural offerings. Step 3: Experiential history I spent 25 wonderful years as a high school history teacher and absolutely loved it (most of the time). Some challenges, such as the politics of education and classroom management issues, could sometimes get in the way, but it was a great experience overall. One of the most rewarding aspects of teaching history was bringing the subject to life. I found that students were most engaged when they could experience history rather than just read about it. For instance, when we studied the French Revolution, I divided the class into 3 estates to simulate the social hierarchy of that time. The nobility were given complete freedom, the clergy had some restrictions, and the rest of the class, representing the peasants, had to follow orders from the other two groups. This simulation led to heated debates and disagreements, allowing us to empathize with the peasants' struggles during the French Revolution. In Italy, there are numerous opportunities to experience history. For example, during a weekend trip to Rome, we visited the Mithraeum underneath the Basilica of St. Clement's. Visiting St. Clement's felt like stepping into a time machine. The ground level houses a basilica dating back to 1100. While sitting and taking in the atmosphere, we reflected on the fact that services had been held at that altar for over 1,000 years. Afterward, we descended to the area of the 4th-century basilica, where we wandered through and admired the ancient frescoes. Further descent led us to the second-century Mithraeum, a place where soldiers and followers of Mithras held their secret ceremonies. We heard the sound of rushing water behind the wall, indicating an underground river. Though there were school children present, they soon left, and my partner and I found ourselves alone in that mysterious place. We discovered some seating carved into the rock just outside the Mithraeum and sat in that spot where Roman soldiers had once waited to enter the place of worship. It was a truly immersive experience where history came to life. Step 4: Meeting others who want a bigger life One of the unexpected joys of living in Italy is meeting others on similar journeys. The people we have met come from various backgrounds and ages, but they all share one common quality: the desire for a more fulfilling life. Those willing to take a risk for the kind of life they want, even outside their comfort zone and without knowing exactly how it will turn out, are some of the most interesting people. Whether they are retiring in Italy, starting a business, or living part-time, these individuals tend to have diverse interests and a sense of adventure. It's truly a delight to meet others living in Italy and share in some of their adventures. Some of our friends from Puglia also resided in Budapest; we flew up for a long weekend, and they showed us the city from a local point of view. It was amazing. Step 5: Using our home as a base We have had the goal of using our home in Italy as a launching point to explore the rest of Europe. This was difficult when we were located in Puglia due to its southern location, as we had to fly for international trips. However, now that we are in Tuscany, we find that more of Europe is easily accessible. This Fall, we plan to drive to the south of France and then continue to Lourdes. Next Spring, we are considering spending two weeks in another European city (we are still deciding on the destination). We are just beginning to use our home as a home base, and I will write more about it in the future. Step 6: Life becomes an adventure Life is short. I know this because my mother passed away when I was a child, and my closest friend passed away when he was 50 a few years ago. I want to live my life as an adventure. I could have kept putting it off until I made more money, had more security, or better understood what living in Italy entails. But life is short. That's why my partner and I decided to dive in and start living part-time in Italy, as we can only live there part-time. We love our routine in California, but we need more. We want life to be an adventure. With our lives split between Italy and California, it has become just that. More next time. Now on sale for $2.99: My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRKMKPWF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_X2WRQ3PTG2ZDD7AVF6GH Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Exploring the Val d'Orcia: A Hiker's Paradise in Tuscany
PART 105: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall and, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas and towns in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's explore hiking in the Val d'Orcia. Step 2: History The Val d'Orcia is a beautiful countryside in southern Tuscany, bordered by Umbria on one side and the slopes of Mount Amiata on the other. It extends along the agricultural lands outside of Siena and is named after the Orcia River that runs through the area. One of the most photographed spots is the famous Val d'Orcia cypress trees near San Quirico d'Orcia. The area's gentle, cultivated hills are occasionally broken by gullies and by picturesque towns and villages such as Pienza (rebuilt as an "ideal town" in the 15th century under the patronage of Pope Pius II), Radicofani (home to the notorious brigand Ghino di Tacco) and Montalcino (the Brunello di Montalcino is counted among the most prestigious of Italian wines). The landscapes of the Val d'Orcia have been depicted in works of art, from Renaissance paintings to postcards today, and have been used in many films, including Gladiator. My partner and I have explored Tuscany by car several times, and we always go off the beaten path to see what we can discover. Recently, we have begun to hike the area, and the experience is more rewarding than driving. Step 3: Some great hikes There are many hiking opportunities in the Val d'Orcia area. Here are a few that we like. a) Rocca d'Orcia to Bagno Vignoni Start your hike at the top of the village of Rocca d'Orcia and make your way down to Bagno Vignoni. You can park at the parking lot just outside of town and then walk up into the medieval village. Along this path, you'll often find art displays. Continue to the fortress tower at the top of the hill to enjoy a beautiful view of the neighboring village of Castiglione d'Orcia. After exploring the village of Rocca d'Orcia, follow the path downhill toward Bagno Vignoni. The trail is well-marked, winds through vineyards, farmyards, and fields with stunning views. The walk is about 4 km downhill to the Orcia River. Upon crossing the river, the path leads to the bottom of the thermal springs that flow down from Bagno Vignoni. You'll pass a series of pools that get warmer the closer you get to their source, often with people swimming or soaking in them. Take some time to enjoy Bagno Vignoni, where you can visit cute shops, interesting restaurants, and the amazing Albergo Le Terme spa, offering thermal waters for a fee. The hike ends here. You can hike back up the hill to the parking lot or arrange for a taxi. b) Hiking Pienza Another great hike is in the hills surrounding Pienza. This easy hike begins at an organic sheep farm called Podere il Casale, which specializes in pecorino cheese. You can enjoy a great lunch at the restaurant, with its pecorino cheeses and other farm produce, before setting off for a trek to Pienza. The hike leads through the farm and down the fertile landscape surrounding the medieval village of Pienza. Part of the path follows the Via Francigena, the ancient pilgrimage between France and Rome. Poppies and wildflowers surround the path in the spring as farmers tend their fields and work the vines. This hike takes you through everything you would associate with Tuscany - winding lanes, tall cypress trees, beautiful villages, and many grape vines. The path continues through a valley pass with a few steep hills to trek up, but the stunning views of Pienza make it well worth it. Once the path leads into Pienza, the reward is one of the most beautiful hill towns in Tuscany. Beautiful shops, several restaurants and bars, and a lovely church await visitors. However, the greatest reward is the breathtaking views over the Val d'Orcia from Pienza. c) Circular walk between Pienza and the Cappella di Vitaleta, along the famous Gladiator road This is an easy path to follow, and reaching the iconic Cappella di Vitaleta is worth it. It feels like standing inside of a postcard. During the first part of the hike, you pass the winding scenic road where Russell Crowe returned home in "Gladiator." Visiting Pienza and then Pieve di Corsignano (right outside the town) is a must. The hike itself: Just inside Porta al Prato, the main street leads to Pienza's central square, Piazza Pio II. Take time to explore this 15th-century "perfect" Renaissance town, including the Piccolomini Palace, the Borgia Palace, and the cathedral with its pure Renaissance exterior and late Gothic-style interior. Take the street left of the Duomo, walk through the Porta al Santo, then turn right onto Via di Circonvallazione. An 11-minute walk leads to the Pieve di Corsignano. At this point, the asphalt path becomes gravel, and on the left, signs point to the Agriturismo Terrapille (the sign is sometimes hidden by a huge hybrid fig tree). Soon, the path becomes the famous Gladiator road where Ridley Scott filmed some iconic scenes from "Gladiator." After 6 km, the path continues down the valley to the famous chapel, Capella di Vitaleta, and the adjacent farmhouse. On the Via Santa Caterina, make a final stop at the UNESCO World Heritage sign and gaze at the beautiful panorama overlooking the trail and Monte Amiata. Step 5: More hikes: Resources https://www.eurotravelcoach.com/blog/two-great-hikes-in-val-dorcia-tuscany?format=amp https://poderesalicotto.com/en/2019/05/09/best-hiking-trails-in-the-val-dorcia/ https://www.alltrails.com/lists/val-d-orcia-and-pienza https://www.alltrails.com/italy/tuscany/san-quirico-d-orcia Two. Hikes from S Quirico: https://emotionschaser.com/2021/08/07/val-dorcia-discover-two-wonderful-hiking-trails-from-san-quirico-in-tuscany-italy/ Insights: Driving and hiking offer two distinct experiences. As we engage in both activities, we uncover hidden gems in Val d'Orcia that we never knew existed. Hiking reveals the little details: a rare viewpoint, a small flower, or a farmer tending to his field. More next time. SECOND EDITION NOW ON SALE FOR $2.99! “She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome.” https://a.co/d/4Bx0Eh3 . Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Unveiling Rome: The Art of Presenting My Book in the Eternal City
P ART 106: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas and towns in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, I want to share an exciting event in Rome with you! Step 2: Why write? Teaching is my profession, and writing is my hobby. This separation allows me to write without feeling pressured to cater to market demands. Writing for the "market" involves conforming to current trends and creating content for profit. I write because stories come to me. These stories usually manifest as images, and I strive to capture them with the best words I can manage. The writing process is challenging, but finishing and seeing a book in print is immensely fulfilling. Positive feedback, whether through book sales, reader enjoyment, or comments, is the ultimate bonus! Step 3: The event In my recent blog, I discussed the historical libraries in Rome and highlighted that many offer open study areas for the public. Whenever I spend more than a few days in Rome, I make it a point to visit these libraries as they provide a peaceful and conducive environment for research and writing. My favorite historical library in Rome is the Vallicelliana Library, established in 1565 near Piazza Navona, one of my favorite areas in Rome. This library is located next to the Chiesa Nuova, and the most impressive part is the Borromini Hall, a majestic rectangular room. The room is filled with natural light from 16 windows and a balcony that overlooks Piazza della Chiesa Nuova, providing a wonderfully bright ambiance ( https://www.livetheworld.com/activities/italy/vallicelliana-library ). Recently, the library invited me to present the Italian version of my book "She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome" ( https://a.co/d/iwsclKf ). The Italian version is titled "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma" ( https://amzn.eu/d/0eFUMCHN ). The presentation will be on September 11, 2024, at 17:00 (5 p.m.) in Piazza della Chiesa Nuova in Rome (see flyer in this blog). Step 4: A big deal? I don't make any money from writing, as the little I earn (about $1 per copy sold) goes back into promoting my book. So, for me, the rewards of writing are not monetary, but rather: Satisfaction: I enjoy setting goals, working towards them, and achieving them. It gives me a sense of satisfaction in my work life, gym, or writing. Putting down a story that's been floating around in my mind, going through the painstaking process of editing the initial draft, refining it, finding a publisher, and seeing it released all add up to immense satisfaction and a sense of purpose and meaning, especially now that I am retired. Meeting interesting people: An unexpected benefit of writing is meeting some incredible people. Whether through this blog or the books I have published, I've met and befriended others who seek more out of life and are willing to take risks for their dreams. Amazing experiences: If someone had told me five years ago that I would be interviewed by Vatican Radio, I would have laughed in their face. If someone had told me I would be interviewed by a news program in Italy, I would have said they were lying. If someone had said I would be doing a public presentation of one of my books in the center of Rome, I would have said, "You're crazy!" Yet here we are. Step 5: The presentation I am passionate about teaching, so I want to ensure that this learning experience is engaging. To achieve this, I plan to use a Google Slides deck to make the presentation visually interesting and encourage audience interaction through questions. Drawing on my experience as an educator, I will intertwine stories from Rome with my personal history. Additionally, I aim to share examples of excellent teaching from my former professor of archeology, who provided enlightening insights about underground Rome. To enhance the presentation, I have invited the translator of my book to co-present with me. She has a unique perspective as a native Italian speaker and educator in Italian studies. Additionally, she has experience teaching in California, so she understands the culture and mindset there. After the presentation, I will open the floor to questions about the book's content and our experiences in the field of education in the United States. The entire presentation will be conducted in Italian, so I'm doing my best to prepare for it. Step 6: The gratitude I am honored to have the opportunity to present my book about Rome in the heart of Rome. It is definitely one of the most exciting moments in my writing career. I am grateful for the friendships, experiences, and cultural opportunities my writing journey has brought into my life. I don't know how many people will attend the event, but if you happen to be in Rome in September, I would be thrilled to see you there. More next time. SECOND EDITION NOW ON SALE FOR $2.99! “She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome.” https://a.co/d/4Bx0Eh3 . Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .











