
Mark Tedesco
Books, blog, and a life between California and Italy
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- Do I need a car in Italy?
PART 78: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Let's explore transportation in Italy. Step 1: Do I need a car while living in Italy? I have lived in Italy twice: first in Rome for eight years as a student, and more recently in Puglia. Now, we are moving to Tuscany. While living in Rome, if someone had asked me whether having a car while living in Italy was necessary, my answer would have been a resounding "no"! Rome is well-connected, and all the places I wanted to go were accessible by train. Besides, Rome is difficult to navigate and impossible to park in. Moreover, as a student, owning, leasing, or renting a car was an expense I could not afford. However, fast forward to our lives in Puglia and now Tuscany, and the answer to the question "Do you need a car while living in Italy?" would be a resounding "yes!" Why so? Let's explore both. Step 2: Geography and purpose. Having or not having a car is influenced by geography and what type of experience one wants in Italy. When I lived in Rome, I resided in a city with a central train hub and could easily access all the stores, museums, and cultural sites I was interested in on foot. I was more interested in exploring major European cities than rural areas or small towns at that time. However, when we moved to Puglia, we realized that having a car would be essential. Although we could still walk to stores, we wanted to experience the wider area, which was only possible with a vehicle. We could visit smaller towns, participate in local festivals, enjoy the beaches, or easily explore new hiking areas. Moreover, we lived in a smaller town that was not well connected by train. As we now plan to move to Tuscany, we have discovered that the most scenic areas outside of Florence and Siena are not well connected by trains. Whether it is Val d'Orcia or Monte Amiato, experiencing it without a car can be quite challenging. But let's go deeper into the advantages and disadvantages of having a car. Step 3: The advantages of not having a car in Italy. The first advantage of having no car in Italy is the expense. Whether buying, leasing, or renting, having a car for months is expensive. Plus, there is the added complication that a non-resident US citizen cannot register a car in Italy. So one can save lots of money by not having a car. Other advantages of being free of a car in Italy include no parking stress, no need to adapt to driving habits in Italy, an efficient train system, and no fear of breakdowns or being stranded somewhere. Last but not least, one avoids the difficult written driving test in Italy, which is a requirement for obtaining an Italian drivers license. Step 4: The disadvantages of not having a car. It is important to note that the disadvantages of not having a car in Italy can vary depending on one's individual travel needs and priorities. For instance, an expat who is considering where to live in Italy will find that not having a car means being restricted to living only in larger towns or cities that are well connected to train lines. However, living in a more populous town or city can have its own advantages and disadvantages. Some readers have pointed out that there are some smaller cities or towns that are along main train routes, which makes traveling by train convenient. Orte, less than an hour from Rome on a main train route, is one of these towns that we looked into. Though we decided that this town wasn't for us, there may be others along major train routes that might be a good fit for someone who decided to not have a car. When we were exploring different places to live in Italy, we considered both larger cities like Bologna and smaller cities like Orte. While both places are on strategic train lines, we found that the larger cities exceeded our housing budget, and some of the smaller cities didn't meet our requirements. Therefore, not having a car can limit one's options when it comes to choosing where to live in Italy. An important disadvantage of not having a car is the limited accessibility to areas with underdeveloped public transportation. In our experience, one requires a car to explore the Val d'Orcia in Tuscany, the magnificent beaches in Puglia, the trulli in the countryside around Alberobello, and the breathtaking views in the Dolomites. Without a car, one misses out on these areas and many other wonderful places. Participating in town feasts and festivals is a vital part of our life in Italy, as it provides us with a glimpse of history, culture, and sometimes religious beliefs. Sometimes we plan to attend a festival in a nearby town, while other times it is a spontaneous decision, as when friends invite us. These festivals are some of the most fantastic experiences we have had in Italy so far, and attending them without a car would be a challenge. Without a car, one also misses out on exploring the smaller, yet incredible towns, such as in the Val d'Orcia or other places that do not have a developed train service. Step 5: The advantages of having a car in Italy. The advantages of owning a car have already been discussed, and they include having more options for where to live, the ability to explore the countryside, beaches, and mountainous regions, and easier access to town feasts and festivals as well as smaller, charming towns. Moreover, there is the idea of spontaneity. In California, it is part of our nature to plan everything ahead of time. We schedule dinners with friends weeks in advance and book activities well beforehand. In Italy, it is not uncommon for a local friend to invite us to a dinner that same night, or to take us to an open-air concert in the nearby town or to watch a procession in another village. Without a car or a ride, we would have to decline such spontaneous invites, unless we had the chance to check the bus or train schedule. Furthermore, there are practical issues like grocery and other shopping; without a car, it can be hard to reach a big mall or larger shopping center and then carry the goods back home. Step 6: The disadvantages of having a car. As mentioned above, owning a car in Italy has some drawbacks, such as the high cost of renting, leasing or buying them. Additionally, one needs to learn the driving styles, speed limits, parking and other regulations in the country. Touristy areas often present parking problems, and it can be time-consuming to find a suitable spot to leave the car. Step 7: Hybrid approach. We considered a hybrid approach of not renting a car for the full three months that we are in Italy, but instead only renting it for a few days each month for exploring and shopping purposes. However, we ultimately decided against this idea because part of the adventure of being in Italy is being spontaneous, and we didn't want to limit ourselves without having transportation readily available. Step 8: Our solution. We discovered that Renault offers a car leasing program wherein one can reserve a car in advance and collect it either in Rome or Milan. In the long run, this option may prove to be more cost-effective compared to the standard car rental agencies. For those interested, this is the site that we use now. https://www.auto-tt.com . Their rates have risen, however. We are exploring other car rental options and I will write about what we discover. Insights: I cannot provide a one size fits all answer to the question of whether one needs a car in Italy as it's a personal decision. However, based on our own experience, we believe that having a car is essential. Our decision was influenced by the place we chose to live in and our reasons for living in Italy. We hope that our experience can assist others in making a decision. More next time. SECOND EDITION NOW ON SALE FOR $2.99! “She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome.” https://a.co/d/4Bx0Eh3 . Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Exploring the Charm of Monte Amiata: A Perfect Destination for Tuscany Enthusiasts
PART 79: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Let's explore: Why Amiata? Step 1: We explored many areas of Italy to settle down as our base. We lived in Puglia for about 2 years after visiting that area for nearly 10 years. But ultimately, we bought a house in Monte Amiata, Tuscany. It is the perfect area for us. Why? Step 2: Lifestyle Choosing an area to live in involves some soul-searching. What type of life do we want? What are our main interests? How do we want to live every day? My partner and I are interested in an active lifestyle and experiencing history and culture. The Monte Amiata area hits both these marks. Situated on and around a mountain, the towns in the Amiata area have access to ski areas, hiking trails, mountain bike paths, and camping. There are also gyms, running tracks, and indoor sports activities available. I am not interested in a sedentary lifestyle, so access to a gym, sports, and other activities is essential. While living in a great European city gives one ready access to cultural activities and monuments, access to sports activities can be more challenging. Therefore, living in the Monte Amiata area works for us because we have access to outdoor activities, culture, and history. Step 3: Culture "What if we could hop in our car and be in Florence, Siena, Assisi, or Rome in a few hours?" my partner asked one day while we reflected on our experience in Italy. I thought that "what if" was beyond our financial reach. More on that later. In California, I long for the history and culture I experienced in Italy. Exploring a museum of ancient sculpture or admiring a gallery of Renaissance paintings is what my dreams are made of. Having taught high school social studies, art history, and Italian language for 25 years, living in the Monte Amiata area works for me because I can experience Michelangelo's David, the Capitoline museums, and the medieval streets of Assisi within a few hour's drive. What was once my partner's dream has become my own and is finally coming true. Step 4: Friendliness I asked our realtor, "So, will people here have a problem with us being a gay couple?" He shook his head and replied, "They will treat you with the same respect they treat everyone. You will see." Our realtor took us out for drinks with his friends a few days after purchasing our house. The gathering was incredible, with spouses and children joining in, and we felt a strong sense of belonging. Although we are just starting our life in Monte Amiata, the reception has been warm and embracing. Step 5: Geography Geography is a crucial factor that affects our lives. The size of our town or our location in Italy can significantly impact our experiences. When we started our Italian adventure, we chose Puglia as our base, which was an excellent decision. Friends surrounded us, and renting a home made our transition smooth. However, we soon realized that beach life wasn't our cup of tea. We were more inclined to explore the mountains, historical places, and cultural sites in the north. As we became more focused on our interests and goals, we understood the importance of geography. Therefore, we have decided to move to Monte Amiata, which will be our perfect next step. Step 6: Affordability "We could never move to Tuscany; we could never afford it," I remember telling my partner. But the truth is, I had never looked into housing there and was going on stereotypes that I had formed. It wasn't until a local friend in Puglia suggested we check out Monte Amiata that we discovered the area. "I know if you go, you will love it," he said. "And that housing in that area of Tuscany is still affordable. Maybe Americans haven't discovered it yet!" As it turned out, he was right. We had been looking at houses for sale in Nardó, Puglia, in our price range. However, we were pleasantly surprised to find houses in the Monte Amiata area that were in the same price range or even less. We put in an offer on a house in Amiata, and it was accepted. And now, our adventure begins! More next time. Now on sale for $2.99: My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRKMKPWF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_X2WRQ3PTG2ZDD7AVF6GH Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Spotlight on Pienza
PART 80: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas and towns in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. This week, let's explore Pienza in Tuscany. Step 2: History Pienza was originally a small village that surrounded the Corsignano castle built in the 8th century. However, the town gained significance due to the birth of Eneo Silvio de Piccolomini in 1405 in the same area. Eneo later became Pope Pius II in 1458. But who was this man? Pope Pius II was a Renaissance man passionate about learning in various areas. He studied literature, poetry, oratory, history, and law at the University of Siena, where he obtained his degree. He wrote on diverse subjects, including history, biography, political science, horse care, and family life. His writings contain vivid descriptions of Tuscan life during the 15th century. Pope Pius II's church career took him to an important church council in Basel and various church missions across Europe. It's worth noting that he spent several years in Germany working with Holy Roman Emperor Frederick III. This fact is significant for some of the architecture found in Pienza today. During his time as Pope, Pius II wanted to make a lasting impact. He chose to renovate the village where he was born and turn it into a model Renaissance city, as the Papacy was then seen as both a worldly and spiritual authority. To accomplish this, Pius hired Bernardo Rossellini, one of the greatest architects in Florence, who designed the brick and travertine patterns in the central piazza, the Cathedral, the Canonical Palace, and the Pope's residence, called the Palazzo Piccolomini. The town was renamed Pienza in honor of Pius himself. Unfortunately, Pius died before the complete plan for the town was realized. He had hoped to lead a crusade but was unable to gather enough support and died before he could board the ship. However, even in its incompleteness, Pienza remains a gem left by Pius II. Step 3: Sights. Piazza Pius II is a beautiful square in Pienza that embodies the Humanist vision of the 'ideal city'. Standing in the middle of this piazza and turning full circle gives one a beautiful view of the Cathedral, Palazzo Piccolomini, and Palazzo Borgia. Piccolomini Palace, once the summer residence of the Piccolomini family, is now a museum that houses a library of rare books, period furniture, paintings, and engravings of Piccolomini family members. It is built around a courtyard that overlooks the city on three sides and an elegant garden overlooking the Tuscan landscape on the fourth side. Visitors can inspect the family's furniture and their collection of treasures. The Cathedral of Pienza is loved by everyone, regardless of religious beliefs. Pius' travels and time spent in Austria and Germany influenced the Gothic architecture and feeling inside the church. The floor slopes towards the altar, and this is not your imagination. The foundations of the church started to shift shortly after it was completed in 1462. The Episcopal Palace, also known as the Borgia Palace, was the Pope's residence in town. It is now an 11-room museum that houses 14th- 16th-century masterpieces and gold work from the 13th- 19th centuries. The Town Hall, or Palazzo Comunale, is the civic palace in Pienza that faces the Cathedral. The church and state are separate yet harmonious in this urban vision. The bottom level features a triple-arched loggia, similar to those of the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence. Step 4: Cool things. Take a leisurely stroll along Corso Rossellino when you visit Pienza. Though the town can be crossed in just 5 minutes, exploring the alleys, shops, and beautiful doors and architecture along the way is much more enjoyable. You may be pleasantly surprised if you slip down an alley towards the D'Orcia Valley. Walking along the city walls will bring you in contact with breathtaking views of Tuscan's Val d'Orcia. The movie "The Gladiator" shows a scene filmed along the ribbony dirt road dotted with cypress trees and surrounded by wheat fields. You can try to find it from the ramparts! Remember to follow your nose in Pienza and visit a cheese shop to sample and purchase some Pecorino di Pienza. This will allow you to not only "see" Pienza but also to "taste" it. Insights: Despite being a popular tourist town, Pienza has retained its charm and remains overwhelmingly beautiful. If you can, stay until the evening when many tourists have gone, and the locals from the town or surrounding areas fill the streets. It's truly a place not to be missed, and its history, panoramas, and architecture will remain in your imagination forever. More next time. Now on sale for $2.99: My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRKMKPWF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_X2WRQ3PTG2ZDD7AVF6GH Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Studying in Rome's Historical Libraries
Our Italian Adventure: Studying in Rome's Historical Libraries PART 91: It might be interesting to share how we managed to live in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). This week I am in Rome experiencing some of its historical libraries. Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we are discovering some gems that are worth sharing. Some of these are well known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. This week, let's take a field trip to Rome and explore accessing and studying in Rome's historical libraries. Step 2: Vallicelliana Library Right now, I am sitting in the Biblioteca Vallicelliana, which dates from 1565 and is in the center of Rome, near Piazza Navona and next to Chiesa Nuova. First, some history: The Vallicelliana Library (Biblioteca Vallicelliana) was established in 1565 by the Oratory Fathers, who loved books. It's linked to Saint Philip Neri and the Congregation of the Oratory. The Library was officially recognized by Pope Gregory XIII in 1575. The ancient Library of the Oratory Fathers, also known as the Borromini Hall, was inaugurated in 1644. It has 16 windows, a balcony, and a wooden coffered ceiling. The Library has over 130,000 volumes on Medieval Studies, History of the Church, Rome, and Lazio. There's a separate study room with computer outlets and Wi-Fi access. To enter, one must show ID and fill out a brief form, and then proceed to the reading room, where I am sitting right now. Step 3: Why go to a historical library? There are many reasons to visit a historical library in Rome or elsewhere, but my main focus is to continue my writing practice and be productive while visiting. Rome is magical to me, and every time I visit the city, it feels like a little corner of my life has changed. However, since I know the city so well (having lived here for 8 years in the past), aimlessly wandering the streets doesn't work for me anymore. When I visited Rome last year, I decided that when I stay here for more than a few days, I would make a historical library a part of my daily routine along with the gym. The atmosphere of a place feeds my imagination, and it reflects in my writing. For instance, when I visited the 4th-century house of the soldiers John and Paul (near the Colosseum) years ago, the vibe or spirit of the place brought these two men alive for me and eventually led to my historical novel on their lives and adventures. Similarly, working within a 15th-century library gives me a sense of the flow of history I am part of. And so, as I sit here, I am inspired to write this blog. Step 4: Other historical libraries nearby Last night, I attended a concert at the church of St. Ignatius near the Pantheon. Before the concert, we took a walk around the area and came across a stunning entrance to another historical library. The sign outside indicated that its study room was open. Later, we spotted another library in Piazza Minerva, next to Santa Maria Sopra Minerva. I went inside and asked if I could use their study room, and they said yes, as long as I didn't make any phone calls. So, I found three libraries in the area, but I wonder if there are more nearby. Step 5: Other historical libraries worth visiting Angelica Library (Biblioteca Angelica) The Library of the Senate (Biblioteca del Senato) Biblioteca Casanatense Before showing up at historical libraries in Rome, it's best to check their website or speak with an admin on site. Step 6: Libraries with outdoor reading space There are even libraries in Rome with calm and peaceful outdoor reading spaces. There are too many to name, so I will include the link in Italian here: https://www.bibliotechediroma.it/opac/news/sale-studio-allaperto/33045 Step 7: Study space in museums in Rome The Capitoline Council in Rome recently approved a resolution to establish a network of study rooms within its library system. The study rooms will be civic spaces for studying, reading, and gathering with longer opening hours than traditional library reading rooms. The network will be coordinated by the Library Institution of Rome and will include spaces from Roma Capitale, third parties, and city cultural institutions. All study rooms that join the network will be advertised on a single web portal starting from 2024. One such museum study space is near Piazza Navona at Museo di Roma a Palazzo Braschi ( https://www.informagiovaniroma.it/aule-studio-capitoline/ ). Step 8: Vatican Library? The Vatican Library is one of the most renowned libraries in Rome, and many people desire to visit, explore and browse its collections. However, access to the library is restricted to individuals who are conducting specific research and can provide documentation of their educational status. You can find the criteria for working in the Vatican Library by visiting this website: https://www.vaticanlibrary.va . Insights: Having a purposeful visit to Rome, for me, means not only discovering the city's treasures, but finding a place where I can write, reflect and be inspired. Rome's historical libraries fulfill all three criteria. More next time. Now on sale for $2.99: My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRKMKPWF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_X2WRQ3PTG2ZDD7AVF6GH Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Living in the historical center, or not?
PART 82: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Let's explore the perks and pitfalls of living in the historical center of a town/city in Italy. Step 1: We lived in Puglia for almost two years, renting an apartment outside the historical center. Then, we recently purchased a home in the historical center of our town in the Monte Amiata area. What have these two experiences revealed to us so far? Step 2: The draw of the historical center (centro storico). The draw of living in the historical center is in the name: because it is historical! Many of us dream of being able to call a 15th-century building one's home. Winding streets, centuries-old historical buildings and the unique atmosphere of living in a historical center draw house hunters like flies to honey, and with good reason. If one is seeking the unique experience of being part of the flow of history embodied in ancient roads, allies, and stone buildings, the historical center is the place to be. Step 3: Differences between historical centers. The historical center in our town in Puglia was one of the more neglected areas. Many empty houses and few businesses created an atmosphere of an overlooked area of the city, which held little attraction to us. But just a few kilometers away was another town, Nardò, with a fantastic and lively historical center; we went there often to sip espresso or explore the churches, cobble streets, and unique buildings. So, the conditions and life of the historical centers of various towns can differ significantly. In our town in Tuscany (Arcidosso), the historical center has excellent panoramic views, narrow winding streets, and stone buildings gathered under the town's towering castle. There is no restricted driving (ZTL zones), but most streets are too narrow for a car to pass. Most residents use the area as their second home since the historical center is quiet during the winter. Yesterday we went to a nearby town here in Tuscany, Santa Fiora. The historical center there is very well maintained, and sections of it are reachable by car, especially the lower part of the historical section. Here again, many houses seemed to be shuddered for the winter. We visited other historical centers off-season, especially in bigger towns with more of a year-round life and full-time residents. Step 4: The challenges of living in the historical center. When deciding to live or not live in this historical center of a town, one should consider all aspects, positive and negative. Some of the challenges we have encountered so far: Parking Although there is no restricted driving in our historical center, the streets are too narrow for a car to pass, so we have to find parking outside the entrance. We knew this coming into the situation, so the situation didn't catch us by surprise. We always find parking in front of one of the gates to the historical part, and then it is about a five-minute walk to the house. If we lived deeper inside the historical center, the walk from car to house would be more challenging. Groceries and supplies Not being able to park in front of or near one's house requires one to carry groceries, bottled water, and bags of pellets (we have a pellet heater) from the car to the house. We have learned to go to the store often to get supplies to carry lighter loads up the path to our house rather than waiting for house necessities to pile up. Carrying big bags of pellets up is never fun, but we are fit, and so far, that is fine. We have been told that pellets and groceries can be delivered to the house for a fee, but we have yet to feel the need to do that. Gas/electricity In some historical centers, including ours, there are no gas lines. We have a gas stove on a propane tank under the sink, and everything else runs on electricity. The consequence of this is that our electricity is constantly shutting off. For example, the eclectic switch flips if we turn on the oven while running hot water or turn on a space heater. Unlike Puglia, where we had gas lines to the house, the hot water heater and stove ran off the gas, so we never ran over our allotted 3 Kilowatts. Reliance on electricity alone and constantly losing power because of overuse was something we didn't expect. Our next steps are to switch to lower-consuming appliances, address the heating issue in the house with low energy requirements, and apply for more kilowatts to meet our immediate needs. Restrictions on outside work There are more restrictions on modifying a building, especially externally, in the historical center than in other parts of town. Creating a new window, changing an entrance door, or installing solar heating may be more heavily regulated in this historical center; such changes, in fact, may not be possible at all. A good realtor is an excellent source of information in this area. Garbage collection In Puglia, our trash was collected on our doorstep: Organico one day, paper the next, and mixed garbage afterward. Each day of the week was designated as a specific pick-up day. Our historical center has no house trash pick up, but one must deposit the different types of trash in large bins nearby. This can be a hassle for some, but we actually prefer it. Rather than having trash pile up as we wait for the specific pick-up day, we just put it in the designated dumpster while driving to the gym in the morning. This may seem to be a hassle for some, but it works better for us. Step 5: Which is right for me? It is impossible to say whether living in the historical center is suitable for someone or not. It depends on what type of experience one wants in Italy, whether one can carry supplies back and forth, what kind of house one wants, and a million other particular questions unique to each person seeking to establish a life in Italy. Step 6: What we have learned. We decided that the historical center is the place for us because we have all the conveniences we are accustomed to in California. Still, in Italy, we want a different experience. So far, lugging supplies up and down is not a big deal; we have to make sure that every trip to our car counts and that we always bring something each way. We are finding solutions to the lack of access to natural gas, lower energy solutions to heating, and lower consumption appliances. In this way, we are coming to adjust to and appreciate living within walls that breathe history. More next time. Now on sale for $2.99: My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRKMKPWF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_X2WRQ3PTG2ZDD7AVF6GH Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Spotlight on Abbey of Sant'Antimo
PART 81: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the Spring and then back again in the Fall. Step 1: As we explore towns in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. This week, let's explore the Abbey of Sant'Antimo in Tuscany. Step 2: History I have a weakness for Romanesque architecture, especially when it comes to churches. When some local friends suggested that we visit the Abbey of Sant'Antimo, claiming it is one of the most beautiful examples of Romanesque architecture in Italy, we decided to jump in our car and head towards Montalcino, which is the area in which the Abbey is found. Italy's buildings, monuments, and sculptures are often intertwined with stories; some are historical, and others are legends. The same is true for Sant'Antimo. According to history/legend, the abbey dates from the time of Charlemagne. The story is that Charlemagne and his court were returning from Rome along the Via Francigena and decided to camp on Monte Amiata. When the plague began spreading among the locals and his men, Charlemagne prayed and asked for help. That night, he had a dream in which he was told to make an infusion with wine and a specific grass growing in that area; the angel in the dream said to him that the soldiers who drank this would be cured. He believed in his dream, followed the instructions, and the plague subsided. This particular grass, even today, is known as "Carolina." The legend continues and holds that Charlemagne had a church built in the area of the Abbey in 781 in thanksgiving for his men being saved from the plague. On the right side of the church, in fact, is the 'Carolingian chapel,' perhaps the first abbey church. 1118 was the year that construction work started on the Abbey, leading to its current appearance. The Abbey is built of travertine stone, one of the most beautiful ornamental stones used in the Romanesque period. The Abbey was restored to being a place of spiritual importance only recently, thanks to the work of a community of Canons Regular, which settled here in 1992. These monks left some years later, and now a community of sisters lives at the monastery. Step 3: Sights. The church: When I entered the Abbey church for the first time, I noticed that there was no gold and no abundance of statues or paintings. Shafts of sunlight pierce the open spaces created by golden stone soaring towards the heavens, framing a medieval crucifix dating from the 12th century. Another wooden sculpture from around 1260 representing the 'Madonna with Holy Child Enthroned' rests against the right wall. The interior consists of three naves, round arches resting on columns, and capitals carved with geometrical, human, animal, and flower motifs. A quiet silence circulates inside the church among walls and stone columns with a few frescoes depicting various saints. What is unique about this Abbey church is the feeling. History and spirituality are palpable here, and attending a Sunday service brought it alive. Garden: Saint Hildegard's Garden is not to be missed (at least during the Spring and Summer. It is closed during the Winter). Hildegard was a Benedictine abbess born in 1098 and is one of the most influential female figures of the Middle Ages. She studied how to use nature in medicine and healing; the garden named after her and the healing herbs she used are growing here. It is a beautiful, peaceful place. Pharmacy: The Abbey pharmacy is set up in the ancient treasury room, where one can purchase food products made according to the recipes of the centuries-old monastic herbal tradition, body care products made with natural essences and medicinal herbs, Abbey beer as well as a liquor (amaro) made from Erba Carolina, a herb whose origins are intertwined with the legend of the foundation of the Abbey. Step 4: Cool things. The Abbey has many cultural events, from Gregorian chant to author presentations. They have a website in Italian, which one can also navigate by using Google Translate: https://www.antimo.it The Abbey is worth a visit. We go every time we are in the area because it is like stepping into a different world, and when we come out again, we take a bit of its peace with us. Insights: Listening to the advice of local friends has led us to discover incredible places and experiences. The Abbey of Sant'Antimo was not on our radar until our friend said, "You must go!" We listened and were glad we did. More next time. In my book "She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome," I bring the reader into the stories, past and present, that make the city unique. Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/She-Seduced-Me-Love-Affair-ebook/dp/B09885RSZZ/ref=tmm_kin_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&qid=&sr= . And also, on Amazon Italy, https://amzn.eu/d/eUKgXA1
- Managing Expectations in Italy
PART 85: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we settle into our life in Italy, sometimes our cultural backgrounds influence our experiences, and we may even find ourselves complaining that life in Italy is not unfolding as expected. This week, let's explore managing our expectations. Step 2: Expectations are a part of our daily lives. Once we become used to something, we often come to expect it. For instance, I expect my local supermarket to be open late, my gym to be open every day of the week, and my local Costco to stock the large bulk items I need. Similarly, I expect quick and courteous service when I visit a government or county office. I anticipate fast, accurate, and timely service in any transaction or human exchange. Step 3: Cultural differences and appreciation Carrying expectations from my culture to life in Italy can damage the joy of the adventure and disrupt one's time living in another country. In my previous blog posts, I have shared some examples of the "ugly American" behavior that I have either witnessed or been a part of. Using one's own culture, food, or viewpoint as the standard to evaluate another culture, people, or country reinforces the ugly stereotype of someone who believes that they are always right and everyone else is wrong. We may have all encountered people like that, and we know how unpleasant it can be to be around such people. So, how can we avoid becoming an "Ugly Whatever"? The answer is to manage our expectations. Step 4: Steps to managing expectations When I moved to Italy, I quickly realized that different doesn't necessarily mean better or worse. Just because someone in another country drives, cooks, speaks, or behaves differently from what I am used to, it does not mean that my way is superior. It is just different. The second step was to learn from the Italian culture. Most of my local friends are spontaneous. They would suggest going out for pizza and figure out the details later. I, on the other hand, usually prefer to plan ahead of time. However, I have come to appreciate the importance of relationships over schedules. The third step was to recognize that sometimes other cultures do things better than my own. For instance, when I first moved to Rome, I was frustrated by the time it took to shop for groceries. I couldn't understand why people went to different shops for different items instead of doing everything in one go at a supermarket. However, I have come to appreciate the quality of food and the relationships one forms by shopping at small, local stores. The fourth step was accepting that some cultural practices are imperfect, and I needed to learn how to work within the system. The bureaucracy involved in getting things done or improved at a government agency in Italy can be challenging. However, developing relationships with locals and learning to navigate the system has helped me get things done. Step 5: Letting go Letting go of expectations can be liberating. Sometimes, tasks that were meant to be completed within three days, end up taking ten days instead. It's up to me whether I get frustrated by this or accept it as part of the adventure. When I immerse myself in a different culture without judging it from my own perspective, I open myself up to new experiences. A fascinating religious procession, an ancient cultural festival, or a celebration of a historical event can become things that I no longer experience as a spectator but as a participant. However, this is only possible if I let go of my expectations. More next time. SECOND EDITION NOW ON SALE FOR $2.99! “She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome.” https://a.co/d/4Bx0Eh3 . Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Being Interviewed on Cusano News and Vatican Radio
PART 86: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Let's explore what happened when we returned to Italy recently. Two news organizations, Cusano News and Vatican Radio, invited me in for an interview about my book "She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome." Step 1: Nerves My Italian is OK on some days and flows on others. I don't know why it flows on one occasion, and on others, I stumble. I never felt confident enough in the language to engage in public speaking. Still, when Cusano News and Vatican Radio invited me for an interview, I had to put my fears aside and accept the adventure. Step 2: What is Cusano News? Cusano News is a news organization located in Rome at Cusano University (Università degli Studi "Niccolò Cusano"). Their mission is to provide objective news coverage of global events, with programs dedicated to news, politics, and sports. Additionally, they offer programs that provide insights into culture, entertainment, technology, and science. Step 3: My experience at Cusano I took a taxi to the Cusano campus and was impressed by the modern buildings, academic atmosphere, and the friendliness of everyone I encountered. Cusano News isn't directly connected to the university and is run as a separate entity, though both share space on campus. My interviewer, Gabriele, welcomed me and gave me a tour of the state-of-the-art broadcasting rooms and journalist work areas. He also introduced me to some of his colleagues. We had a few minutes before the live broadcast, and I expressed my nervousness. However, he helped me relax when he talked about his love for Agatha Christie (who I'm a huge fan of) and his cat, Miss Marple. We were then taken to the newsroom, where we did a camera and audio check, and before I knew it, we were live! Gabriele did an excellent job of leading the interview. We discussed several topics, including literature, education, and what it's like to be an author. During the first part of the interview, I was nervous and struggled to find my words. However, I eventually hit my stride and passionately shared my thoughts on education, history, and culture. The interview lasted about 20 minutes and flew by so quickly! Afterward, I told Gabriele about our move from Puglia to Tuscany and that there would undoubtedly be more stories to tell. We agreed to do a follow-up interview in the future. The experience of being interviewed by Cusano News was incredible, and I am incredibly grateful for the opportunity. Step 4: Vatican Radio I was amazed when Eliana from Vatican Radio invited me for an interview on her podcast about Rome's history, culture, and faith experience. Being interviewed by the Vatican on any topic is a privilege; for a writer, it can be a once-in-a-lifetime experience. She had read my book about Rome, which is now published in Italian (Lei me ha sedotto: Un rapporto d'amore con Roma), and wanted the interview to focus on the stories in the book. Step 5: The questions beforehand Neither Cusano News nor Vatican Radio revealed the interview questions to me beforehand, so I had to think on my feet. However, the Vatican podcast is not live, so Eliana reassured me that she would edit the interview, and if I could not think of a word or phrase, she could pause, give me some help, and then remove the pause. This made me feel more confident. Step 6: The experience at Vatican Radio During my visit to Vatican Radio, I had the opportunity to tour the Renaissance building, meet other journalists, and explore the broadcasting facilities. My interviewer, Eliana, then led me outside to show me stunning views of Castel Sant'Angelo. I couldn't believe I was lucky enough to be there and felt grateful for the experience. Eliana had done her research and found some interesting stories in my book that she wanted to expand upon. The interview felt more like a conversation between two people who had read the same book. At one point, I almost forgot that I was the author. We discussed what makes the stories of Rome unique, what brings history alive, my experience of working with the homeless at a shelter run by Mother Teresa's sisters, and my favorite spot in the city. As the interview ended, I was surprised to discover that 20 minutes had passed. Eliana was an excellent interviewer - knowledgeable, professional, and friendly. Step 7: Compare? My experiences at Cusano News and Vatican Radio were so unique that I find it difficult to compare them. Gabriele and Eliana were fantastic interviewers who understood my nervousness and led me through the interview with a calming presence and interesting questions. They are both skilled at getting someone to talk about what they are interested in and presenting it in a professional and polished way. I am incredibly grateful for both experiences, which were equally amazing. Step 8: The links Cusano News: https://youtu.be/zZWsPgBLwD4?si=H1bYecYGpUV_bP3r Vatican Radio: https://www.vaticannews.va/it/podcast/rvi-programmi/il-sampietrino/2024/02/il-sampietrino-06-02-2024.html Insights: Being invited to be interviewed on a news program in Italy was something that I never dreamed of when I wrote the first words of my first book, "As I lay awake at night flooded with thoughts of the past, I wonder if this is what happens in middle age: memories become as important as the present…" (Undeniable Longing). Those thoughts and those memories culminated in these two interviews. Whether they lead to other interviews or not, both are the pinnacle of my life as a writer. More next time. Now on sale for $2.99: My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRKMKPWF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_X2WRQ3PTG2ZDD7AVF6GH Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Exploring Tuscany
PART 87: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Som e of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. This week, let's explore Tuscany. Step 2: The parts of Tuscany In my experience, Tuscany consists of the towns/cities and rural Tuscany. Let's look at some areas we have explored up to now. Step 3: Towns and Cities Florence and Siena are two major cities in Tuscany. Still, many other beautiful and exciting towns are worth exploring, including Pienza, Montepulciano, San Gimignano, Pisa, Lucca, Volterra, and many others. Let's choose one since this is a blog and not a book. Florence. Step 4: A day in Florence. I've been to Florence four or four times, so for this visit, we decided to let our friend Sandro, who lives in Florence, organize our day. I've seen the Uffizi, the David, the cathedral, the Ponte Vecchio, the historical churches, and the Boboli Gardens on previous visits. So we didn't feel an urgency to do what only first-time visitors to Florence must do and see. "Show us things that you would do on a free day in Florence," we asked our friends. So we piled in his car and started our day on Boboli Hill, from where the most beautiful panorama of the city puts the postcard photos to shame. Parking was easy, and we walked across a piazza and sat on the stone wall looking out over Florence. "I can't find the words," my partner said as we tried to absorb the beauty of the Renaissance city. But we had the whole day before us, so we soon jumped into the car, drove down into the city, parked in an area that only locals would know about, and made our way to the Accademia Gallery. "Since it is off-season and opening right when we get there, maybe we won't have to stand in line." Our friend did not disappoint; when we arrived, there were only three people in line, and in five minutes, we were inside, standing before the David. Though I had seen it before, the statue still took my breath away. My partner had never seen it and kept circling, saying, "I can't believe I am here!" We took our time here, viewing Michelangelo's unfinished works, struggling to free themselves of the stone and circling back to the pulsating life of the David. But the museum started to fill up, so our friend bid us follow him, and we headed towards the cathedral. "Are we going inside?" I asked our local friend as we stood in front of the Duomo. "Not this time," he replied. "Let's look at the 'Gates of Paradise' on the baptistry doors. They are copies but are still magnificent. Then, let's back up to see Brunelleschi's dome, which was almost a miracle of engineering. He pushed design and engineering beyond its limits." Getting the grande view of the dome and the more intimate view of the baptistry doors introduced us to what is unique about Florence: the grand architecture and the beauty in the details. "It's time for a coffee with a view," our guide said. Near the cathedral is the department store "La Rinascente," where, unbeknownst to many, there is an outdoor cafe on the roof. We had to navigate through racks of coats and shirts on sale when we found the elevator behind one of the racks. We were whisked to the top, exited, and immersed in the beauty of Florence from above. We grabbed the best table, ordered coffee and pastry, and relaxed in paradise for a few euros. After our break, we visited the historical San Lorenzo Market, marveling at the incredible produce, meats, fish, and cheeses. We then took a stroll along the Arno, sat down for another coffee with a view of the Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge), and ended up at the Piazza della Signoria, where we snapped photos. "One last stop," our friend said as we made our way towards Palazzo Vecchio, built in 1299 as the City Hall. Instead of entering, our friend led us to an outdoor area with a grand piano with a sign that read "Play me." With lots of encouragement, my partner, an excellent pianist, sat down and started playing "Christmas Time is Near." Before long, we were surrounded by other visitors who wanted to be part of the feeling of Christmas below the Palazzo Vecchio on that cold December night. We concluded our day at our friend's home in Florence, where we made pasta together, shared experiences from our day, and played music together on his piano. It was a perfect day. Step 5: Rural Tuscany: Val d'Orcia When I lived in Rome in the 1980s, I never visited rural Tuscany. I saw the photos of the rolling hills and cypress, and I thought it was pretty but certainly not worth a trip. Then, finally, a few years ago, we drove up to Tuscany, booked an Airbnb in San Quirico, and decided to explore the Val d'Orcia. Rather than following a strict itinerary, we drove through the rolling hills, turned off on some gravel roads, and followed our instincts. "Shall we walk?" I suggested after we had driven for a while. We saw a chapel in the distance, which we later discovered was the Chapel of the Madonna di Vitaleta. As we headed in its direction, at a certain point, we stopped and looked around. The winds had increased, and the golden fields swayed in the breeze. As we turned 360 degrees, we became aware of the interplay of the breeze and the wheat fields, which produced a beautiful, peaceful sound that I can't find the words to describe. After a few moments of silence, my partner said, "This is so beautiful that I can't believe it." He was right. Seeing a photo of the countryside and standing in the swirling fields was like the difference between seeing a painting of the Grand Canyon and standing on the edge. At that moment, I understood what the fuss was about; rural Tuscany, the Val d'Orcia, is genuinely one of the world's most beautiful areas. On our spontaneous drives, we discovered the Abbey of Sant'Antimo, an ancient stone monastery and Romanesque church that tries to keep the tradition of Gregorian chant alive. We drove further and came across a castle-looking structure; we parked our car, strolled right in, and met the owner, who was getting ready for the tourist season. "What is this incredible place? Do you own it?" we asked. "My family owns it. There are apartments where they live, but I organize wine tasting and other events. Would you like to look around?" We were treated to an insider's look at her family life and business within the huge stone buildings. Hiking is another activity that we discovered on our spontaneous drives. Some well-marked trails in the Val d'Orcia (and some lesser-marked ones) gave us a different experience than driving. The people, panoramas, stone houses, and hamlets all seemed right at hand when we were on food, trekking through the hills. We decided to plan our next trip to the area around hiking. Insights: Tuscany has "layers," both in its town and its landscapes. We enjoy peeling away at these layers and discovering what is under by visiting a city or area more than once. Our experience of Florence was so much different than the first time I went because I didn't have a full itinerary of what I needed to see. It was more about experiencing the city through the eyes of our local friend. Even the rural areas, especially the Val d'Orcia, have layers and can be experienced through a planned itinerary, a spontaneous idea, in a car, on foot, or a combination. We have only scratched the surface of Tuscany and we are looking forward to seeing more of what is underneath. More next time. Now on sale for $2.99: My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRKMKPWF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_X2WRQ3PTG2ZDD7AVF6GH Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- The Struggle to Learn Italian
PART 93: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Let's explore the struggle to learn Italian. Step 1: This week, let's explore the challenge of learning the language as one more piece of the puzzle to make life in Italy complete. Step 2: I admit it: I had an advantage. I lived in Italy during my college years, and I didn't have the option of not learning Italian. If I didn't learn the language, I would have flunked my classes. Before moving to Rome, I had taken an adult Education evening class in Italian for two years. I thought that my Italian was pretty good until I arrived in Italy. Everyone seemed to be talking so fast that I couldn't understand a thing, and when I tried to speak, I got all tongue-tied. I initially experienced a period of panic as I fell behind in my classes and didn't understand what the professors were saying. However, I continued to attend my language lessons, and I made a more significant effort to speak Italian, build relationships with locals, and study systematically. Then the unthinkable happened. It was January of my first year, and I was sitting in my philosophy class at the Angelicum in Rome. Suddenly, like a rush, something in my brain switched gears. I suddenly began to understand what the professor was saying without having to translate it in my head. How did that happen, and how can my path to learning Italian help others who share my goal? Step 3: Reframing the question Is learning Italian a struggle? "Hell yeah!" I've heard from many an expat. But does it have to be? Learning Italian is an art rather than a struggle. This reframes the task and allows me, the student, to be flexible in my learning approach. Step 4: Learning styles To transform my approach to learning Italian from a struggle to an art, I need to first understand my learning style. As a former high school teacher with 25 years of experience and about 35 students in my classroom, I have witnessed different learning styles every day. Some of my students were auditory learners, who learned best by listening to podcasts or language tapes. Like myself, others were visual learners and needed pictures, videos, and other visual stimuli to grasp a concept. There were also independent, group, and kinetic learners who needed to learn through some physical action. What type of learner am I? In a previous blog, I explored this, so here, I will state that we can get frustrated with trying to learn a language because we are using a learning style that doesn't fit. For instance, listening to tapes or unstructured independent learning may not work for everyone. To determine what type of learner we are, we can look back at what has worked for us in the past or try different learning methods to see which one works best for us. Step 5: What is most crucial I will begin this section by sharing a brief account of my experience in the classroom. I used to teach at a school where the principal decided to switch to block scheduling. This meant that instead of my students attending my class for 55 minutes every day, they would meet for 100 minutes on a rotating schedule. For instance, in week 1, they would attend my class twice, and in week 2, thrice, and so on. My responsibility was to teach my high school students Italian 1A in the first semester and 1B in the second semester. Initially, it seemed like a good idea, as it allowed for project-based learning and longer time for student engagement. However, it turned out to be the opposite, as learning took a nosedive, and the students retained very little. Why? Because the crucial factor was missing: CONSISTENCY. They learned more by meeting 55 minutes daily rather than longer times every other day. Learning Italian as an art can only happen if I have two things in place: CONSISTENCY and STRUCTURE. Another example: Some years ago, I had a book written in my head about a dog living on the Acropolis, but I could never find the time or mood to write it down. Finally, I decided to go to school 15 minutes early every day and devote that time to writing. 15 minutes felt doable, so it didn't take a great effort to do that. After two years of working for 15 minutes a day, I completed the book. It is the same with learning Italian. I will learn more by being consistent than by spending hours studying Italian when I start to feel guilty. Starting small is the key. If one starts to study Italian for 15 minutes a day, every day or at least Monday-Friday, they will learn the language over time. Consistency, consistency, consistency. The other key is being systematic. This means that I have a system in place: a set time and place where I study/learn, a definite textbook that I go through, chapter by chapter, and other materials that I use systemically without jumping around. If I get on the internet or Youtube and start poking around for Italian materials every day, I am not being systematic. Finding a learning path/textbook/course and working at it consistently is systematic. Step 6: Speaking "I can't speak Italian, but I can understand it," I've heard over and over again. Many times, we let fear hold us back. We may think that others will laugh at us or feel self-conscious while trying to speak what we are learning. But that is all in our heads. In my experience, locals are happy when we share their language. The two factors that helped me to speak Italian were: Keeping a pad in my pocket with new words and phrases I wanted to learn and using them throughout the day Developing friendships/relationships with locals Step 6: The cost of not learning Italian Living in Italy, whether part-time or full-time, without learning the Italian language comes with a price. It means I will always be perceived as a foreigner, an outsider looking in from the outside. While many Italians do speak English, relying on Google Translate or any other translation tool is not enough for me to fully experience the culture. Therefore, I must learn the language to have a complete cultural experience. Step 7: Which path to choose? Learning Italian is as simple as: Making a decision Choosing a learning path Being consistent in my learning Choosing which learning path is different for each learner. I need consistency, accountability, and assignments, so taking an online or in-person course works best for me. For someone else, buying a textbook off Amazon works. For someone else, private tutoring. The critical step is that I make the decision, that I choose a learning path (even to try it out) and that I am consistent. Step 8: Studying in Italy What about studying in Italy? A huge number of Italian courses are offered in Italy, most by private schools or companies. However, the most respected that I know about are the full immersion courses offered by the University for Foreigners in Perugia ( https://www.unistrapg.it/en/node/30 ). I am sure there are others, and you are welcome to share your experiences with others in the comments. Insights: Learning Italian can become an art rather than a struggle. Three factors can help: making a decision, finding a learning path, and being consistent in learning. More next time. SECOND EDITION NOW ON SALE FOR $2.99! “She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome.” https://a.co/d/4Bx0Eh3 . Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Moving to Italy is Easy
PART 94: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Let's explore how easy it is to establish a life in Italy Step 1: Agatha Christie is one of my favorite authors, and her novel "Murder is Easy" inspired this blog. Not because it is about killing someone but because what seems complex can become easy, depending on how one goes about it. Step 2: When someone asks us how the process of moving to or living in Italy has been, our first response is always: we were surprised at how easy it has been. It is true; what seemed impossible has become an easy process of establishing a life in Italy. Step 3: Challenges and solutions. When we decided to move to Italy, we had to figure out how. Some of the challenges and questions we had included: Residency and citizenship Where to live? How to find a house? Rent or buy? Full-time or part-time? How do we figure out how to make it happen? Step 4: Residency and citizenship I spent several months researching residency and citizenship requirements for various European countries at the beginning of our journey to a life in Italy. Initially, we thought our only option was to find a country with the easiest residency or citizenship requirements and choose that one. It took us a while to realize that we had other options. Due to our obligations in California, we could only be away part time. We then understood that we didn't have to choose between full-time residency in Europe and not living in Europe at all. We discovered that we could follow the Schengen Zone guidelines, living in Europe for three months at a time while maintaining our California residency. Once we realized this, we no longer felt pressured to search for a country with easy residency requirements. Instead, we could choose a country that suited us best. Given my previous experience of living in Italy during my university years and the presence of many friends there, Italy became the obvious choice. Step 5: Where to live We researched various websites, joined online expat groups, and explored different areas in Italy to find the perfect town or area to live in. However, the more people we spoke with and the more information we gathered, the more confused we became. At that point, my partner suggested, "Why don't we build on what we have rather than start from zero. We have friends in Puglia; why don't we live there? Then we can figure the rest out along the way." Following visits to Orte, Perugia, Assisi, and the outskirts of Rome, we decided to rent a house in Puglia from a friend of ours. It turned out to be one of the best decisions we made. Renting a house was a great first step. During our Christmas vacation in Puglia, we visited the house our friend was renovating. It had two bathrooms, an open kitchen, and a rooftop terrace – it felt like it had been made for us. We asked, "Would you rent it to us for a few months?" he agreed. We flew back in the summer and started our first months living in wonderful Italy. Step 6: Full or part-time? We initially planned to live in Italy full-time, but we faced many obstacles, including work. It took us a while to realize that living in two places is doable if we control our expenses and follow the guidelines of the Schengen Zone (see previous blog on this). After renting our friend's house in Puglia for two months, we asked if we could rent it for 12 months and stay there twice a year for 2-3 months each time. After our first 18 months in Italy, it became clearer to us what we were looking for in our Italian experience. So, we recently moved to Tuscany and bought a home in the Monte Amiata area. Step 7: What is the point of these stories? Moving to Italy has been a smooth process for us due to these factors: - We understood that it wasn't necessary to commit to living here all year round; we could spend part of the year here. - We realized that we didn't need to have all the logistics of living in a foreign country figured out beforehand; learning along the way is part of the adventure. - We found that building friendships with locals gave us a sense of family and helped us navigate the red tape and uncertainties. - We understood that our attitudes play a significant role in shaping our experience in Italy. Insights: Living in Italy can be an easy and exciting adventure if we open ourselves up to the experience, make new friends, and learn to let go and allow things to unfold in their own time. More next time. SECOND EDITION NOW ON SALE FOR $2.99! “She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome.” https://a.co/d/4Bx0Eh3 . Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .
- Dryer or No Dryer in Italy?
PART 98: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we are discovering some gems that are worth shar ing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week let's stay close to home and explore whether we need a clothes dryer in our house in Tuscany. Step 2: It didn't take long to discover that most Italian households do not have a dryer. Whether because of electricity costs or the preference to dry laundry in the fresh air, most go without a dryer and do not miss it. But as two Californians establishing a life in Italy, what about us? Step 3: "We don't need a dryer," I told my partner once we purchased a house in Italy. "We can hang things outside in the summer, and in the rainy season, we can dry them on an electric clothesline. I have it all figured out!" In Puglia, we used to dry clothes on the terrace during the summer and hang them over our radiators in the winter. Since it was common to burn fields in our area throughout the year, many times out clothes hanging outside would take on the smell of smoke and we would have to wash them over again. During the rainy season we were tired of having damp clothes all over the house. The electric heating clothesline that I bought seemed to be the perfect solution. Step 4: The electric clothesline The idea of a heating element embedded in an indoor clothesline sounded amazing. I would just need to hang my clothes on the clothesline, turn it on, and in about 30 minutes, they would be dry. Right? Wrong. After my clothes remained damp even after hanging on the clothesline for hours, I decided to read the instructions. It turned out that in order for the heating element to work, the clothes needed to be spread across the top of the clothesline. However, with just two t-shirts across, all the space was already occupied, and I still had pants, socks, underwear, and five more t-shirts to dry. "Maybe I can lay them on top of each other, and the heat from underneath will dry them all," I thought. Right? Wrong. Through trial and error, I found that the electric clothesline can dry a couple of t-shirts or a pair of pants in about 4 hours. I had no idea how much electricity it was using, and drying such a small amount at a time wouldn't work. So now the clothesline sits in a corner of our attic. Step 5: The laundromat "I don't mind going to the laundromat once a week. I can even do your clothes if you want," I said to my partner after we got rid of the clothesline. It didn't seem like a big deal, since the washers at the laundromat in Italy take about 30 minutes, and drying takes about 45. We discovered a great laundromat in a nearby town and started going there every Monday afternoon. Since we had a lot of laundry each week, we typically used all four washing machines and two large dryers. Doing the laundry, which includes loading the car, sorting, washing, drying, putting the clothes back in the laundry bags, and going back and forth to the car, took up the entire afternoon. So, going to the laundromat consumed one whole afternoon every week when we were in Italy (we stay there for 2-3 months at a time). After a month of this weekly ritual, we reassessed our situation. Time in Italy is so precious and we have a lot of things that we wanted to do besides sit in a laundromat. We decided that we needed another solution. Step 6: The dryer In the end, we arrived at a solution that would fit us. We will buy a dryer. We visited our local electronic store and Euronics to explore our dryer options. We must stack it on top of our washer, which has a nonstandard depth. Yes," they said, "we can get that for you." But we don't have a way to vent the dryer to the outside. "That's no problem; most dryers we sell are like that," they replied. "The door has to open from the left side because of the wall," we insisted. "Well, that is more complicated. Let's look." They looked and found one, though they are rare with that nonstandard depth. We found the dryer we wanted but had to leave for California in a few days. "Can it be delivered by Thursday?" we inquired. Their response was, "No, it usually takes about 2 weeks." So we found our dryer and we are going to order it the day after we return to Tuscany. It feels like we came full circle! Insights: Balancing what we are used to in our own culture with adapting to what is common in another culture is an art learned through experience. We tried non-dryer options and ultimately decided that owning our own dryer will free up precious time and simplify the basic task of keeping clothes clean. More next time. Now on sale for $2.99: My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRKMKPWF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_X2WRQ3PTG2ZDD7AVF6GH Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .











