Our Italian Adventure: Transporting Pets: Information and Experiences PART 35: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the Summer and then back again in the winter. In last week's Blog, I asked readers to share their experiences transporting their pets to Italy/EU. I want to share these here and provide links to some clear information on how pet transport works. Step 1: Transporting pets is a hot topic for animal lovers. I wanted to share some useful official information and readers' experiences transporting their pets to the EU/Italy/Puglia. Step 2: Government information: US Embassy in Italy: Dogs and cats must have: a veterinary certificate, rabies vaccine, microchip, labeled cage, and EU passport once in Europe. https://it.usembassy.gov/embassy-consulates/rome/sections-offices/foreign-agricultural-service/pet-travel-faqs-italy-u-s/ . The Italian health ministry requires a microchip, valid rabies vaccine, and more: https://www.salute.gov.it/portale/caniGatti/dettaglioContenutiCaniGatti.jsp?lingua=italiano&id=4590&area=cani&menu=vuoto . US Department of State: 3 ways to ship your pet: with you, on a separate flight, or through a commercial pet shipper. Microchip and certification requirements. https://www.state.gov/pets-and-international-travel/ . European Commission: microchip, rabies vaccination, rabies test, treatment for Echinococcus multilocularis, and health certificate. https://food.ec.europa.eu/animals/movement-pets/eu-legislation/entry-union_en . Step 3: Airlines information: American: You can only travel with a checked pet (no carry-on) for transatlantic flights: https://www.aa.com/i18n/travel-info/special-assistance/pets.jsp . American uses "PetEmbark" and is said to be one of the most pet-friendly airlines. Delta: Temporary embargo on all pet shipments. https://www.delta.com/us/en/pet-travel/international-connection-pet-travel . Jet Blue: Jet Paws program provides a carrier bag and tips. Pet-friendly airline. https://www.jetblue.com/traveling-together/traveling-with-pets . Air Canada is another very pet-friendly airline that accepts pets in the cabin and in the baggage compartment. https://www.aircanada.com/ca/en/aco/home/plan/special-assistance/pets.html#/ . Many other airlines offer pet services. (I have recently been told that Lufthansa is one of the best.) Please check your airlines. Step 4: Bringing your pet by ship: Only one cruise line, the Cunard Queen Mary 2, carries pets across the Atlantic, and there are only 24 kennels, so reservations must be made a year in advance. The cost is currently $1,000-$1,600 per pet. Pets are not allowed in cabins but are confined to the kennel area. Playtimes and feedings are well organized, and owners can visit their pets during specific times. https://www.cruisecritic.co.uk/articles.cfm?ID=3439 . Step 5: Tips: Dogs cannot fly in the cabin when entering the UK and Iceland, regardless of the airline you're flying. Double check size and weight restrictions as they differ slightly between pet-friendly airlines. Pets are often not allowed to travel in business class due to the design of the seats. Do not travel with your pet in cargo during extreme weather months (too hot or too cold). Step 6: Readers' experiences: I moved from San Francisco to Rome and now Bergamo with my Australian shepherd. He flew cargo with Lufthansa in April 2019, and the flight was great. Lufthansa has a dog lounge at the Frankfurt airport, so my dog got a pee break there. I made sure not to travel during the hot months. Positive experience overall, but I don't take him when I visit….I have an awesome dog sitter for those times -T I used to be a flight attendant, and depending on the airlines, having a pet onboard should not cost that much as long as they are small and can fit in a carrier under your seat the entire flight. Domestically it would cost approx $100 again, depending on the airline. Larger dogs go as luggage in haul in a carrier. I personally would not put my dog through that stress and noise unless that's your only option. You could always take your larger dog on a ship (cruise ) might be more humane -R We've just started this process! We are relocating to Italy from the UAE with our two dogs at the end of July. As our dogs are small enough, they can travel with us in-cabin for €200 each. We did need to call the airline before we booked to make sure they could accommodate our two since there is a limit to how many pets can be on board each flight. We've hired a professional pet relocation service to handle all import/export paperwork and ensure smooth sailing. -K I transport my dog from the USA to Italy twice a year with zero trouble. It's necessary to complete forms, get the international tracker, etc., but the actual act of flying over was no trouble. She flies in the cabin in a comfortable crate and sleeps the entire 9 hours. It's been a blessing to have her here, as we didn't want to leave her for months on end. She loves to explore, and go to the beach, the grocery, and the restaurants. -S Insights: Carrying one's beloved pet to Italy or another EU country is a big decision. What is the safest way to transport my pet? How can I diminish the stress of travel on my pet? What is the cost? What are the risks? What is the trade-off? I hope this information and experiences enrich your decision-making process. Watch for my book coming out soon: "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." https://www.bookdepository.com/Stories-from-Puglia-Mark-Tedesco/9781913680640?ref=grid-view&qid=1666212800375&sr=1-2 . More next time.

PART 36: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We are in Puglia for three months during the summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: In another blog post, I explained the evolution of our decision to live in Italy part-time (half the year, following the 90/180 rule) instead of full-time. This situation works for us, for now, at least. But what about the challenges that living in two countries presents? Step 2: Challenge 1: Finances. We are a middle-class couple. We have a mortgage, student loans, bills, and other expenses. I recently retired, so I am living off my teacher's pension. We are not wealthy. So how can we afford to live in two places? In another post, I took a deeper dive into how we are pulling this off, but a few key points are: We choose to live in a smaller town in Puglia. We could not afford a house in California and to live in a major (expensive) European city. We reduced our California expenses by paying off the car and following a budget. It is surprising how much money Amazon can eat up if one doesn't have a monthly budget! We lease a place in Puglia for 12 months rather than for shorter periods, even though we are only here for part of the year. The monthly rent is thus much lower. While in Italy, we either lease a car from Renault or rent a used one, whichever is lower. Having local friends is essential. From them, we found the house and the car. Step 3: Challenge 2: Relationships/friendships. As I move forward in life, I realize that relationships are my most significant treasure. But friendships must be cultivated; just like a plant needs water and sun, friendships require time and dedication to grow. Some important factors in keeping friendships alive on both sides of the ocean include: Continuity: We keep in regular contact with friends in California while in Italy and vice versa. We keep the same communication going, whether in the US or Italy. Whatsapp, both texting and calling, works great for this. Communication: While traveling or living in Italy, reducing communication with friends to photos and messages about our adventures can be tempting. But friends also share thoughts, feelings, and events. I strive to remember this as we keep in touch with friends in Puglia and California Making time: Let's return to the plant analogy. A friendship needs time to continue growing. When I return to California, I immediately look for opportunities to spend time with friends. Some of our favorite friendship activities include: making dinner together, meeting for coffee, hiking, or meeting on a mountain in the evenings for stargazing. Then, when we return to Italy, we immediately dive in to do much of the same with our friends in Puglia. Since we love our friends, this is all very easy, but it involves deciding what is important and how to use our time. Step 4: Challenge 3: Taking care of two homes. We own a home in California and lease one in Puglia. How this works for us: Critters. Since we live in the desert in southern California, we are aware of the constant efforts of critters to set up housekeeping inside our house. Two rats living in a wall, ants constantly trying to set up a community in the kitchen, cockroaches coming in through the shower drains…it takes constant vigilance to keep them out. We try to pest-proof the house when we are away for months. We spray the perimeter with natural insect spray (it actually works!), put ant traps everywhere, and seal under doors, drains, window sills, etc. So far, this has worked. Fingers crossed. Humidity in Puglia. The sturdy houses in Puglia are often made of stone or brick and during the long winter humid months, sometimes water seeps in. Damage or mold can be the consequence. Having friends check on the house while we are gone during the colder months is the best prevention. The elements: Windstorms and, less often, driving rain can be a phenomenon that can cause damage to the house. The last time we were in Puglia, I looked through the camera of our Ring doorbell and saw that one of the external window shades had partially detached in a windstorm and could break the window with the next gust. We contacted our neighbor, who kindly came over and took care of it. Rain has also come in under our front door when there is a storm. So I continue to weatherproof the house: storing all external shades when we are gone and caulking around the doors. So far, so good. Neighbors. Relationships are essential, whether in Italy or California, and we are blessed to have good people in both places who come over, check on our house, and let us know if everything is fine. In Italy, since we lease, the owner often looks at the house when we are back in California. Security: There is some crime where we live in California, so we now have a security system that also allows us to peer through the cameras. Being able to see through the cameras gives us peace of mind. Step 5: Clothing and Supplies Carrying clothing, toiletries, and other items back and forth across the Atlantic gets old quickly. So we took steps to eliminate this challenge. Clothing. For me, finding clothing that fits in Italy has been challenging. To eliminate bringing clothes back and forth, we both purchased enough essentials to have enough clothing in both places. We brought enough clothes for all seasons during our winter stay this year. From now on, we can travel lighter. Toiletries: We have found that the toiletries used in California are available in Puglia, either the same brand or something similar. That lightens the load in the suitcase. Useful items: We all like to carry things that we are familiar with, and the temptation is to feel that we must lug all these things over to Italy. I have to laugh at myself for having packed things readily available in Puglia, and Amazon Italy works like a charm. Fully equipped in two places: Our goal is to have two fully equipped homes, with enough clothing and house supplies in both so we do not have to carry things back and forth. I think we have achieved this now. So for my next trip, I will only bring a small carry-on. Insights: Living in two countries has challenges, but the rewards far outweigh any hassles. Whether it be housing, relationships, two homes, or having supplies, living in Italy and California is doable and amazing. Watch for my book soon: "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." https://www.bookdepository.com/Stories-from-Puglia-Mark-Tedesco/9781913680640 . More next time.

PART 37: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: Our first long experience in Puglia was last year, during the summer. We filled our days with evenings at the beach with friends, dinners out in groups, village festivals, outdoor concerts, and hiking in the hills above Santa Caterina. But how would our experience be different when we came to Puglia in the off-season? Since we are just concluding our winter stay (following the 90/180 rule), it might be helpful to share what we found in Puglia during the off-season and how it has been a fantastic experience. Step 2: Differences. Our local friendships are a big part of why we chose Puglia, and spending time with friends and traveling with them has been a big part of our summer experience here. But several friends work in Rome as educators during the school year, and others work in northern Italy during this time. So we came to Puglia in the winter, knowing that it would be up to us to construct a fulfilling time here and that each day depended on us rather than friends. Another difference is the absence of tourists. Our area can feel inundated with visitors in July and August because of the beaches nearby. The weather and water are warm, and everyone wants to be where they want to be. We navigated this just fine, but we did have to do more planning if we were visiting a high-density tourist area or town. The third difference was the different options of things to do. In the summer, we dined in the open on the terraces of friends, hiked along hillside paths, and spent time at our favorite beaches. We also visited the cultural sites in the area; we enjoyed exploring Lecce, gazing at the 1000-year designs on the cathedral floor in Otranto, and looking at the meeting of the seas at Santa Maria Leuca. But in the winter, the weather curtailed some of these activities. Step 3: Challenges. The challenges we faced included being more independent from our local friends in a land we are still learning, finding new activities and areas to explore that are compatible with colder weather, and expanding our horizons beyond what our friends have shown us until now. Step 4: Opportunities. We decided to turn our off-season months in Puglia into opportunities. Some things that we have discovered: The lack of tourists frees us up to explore areas in a more profound way than in the summer. Example: we drove to Otranto and spent over an hour in the cathedral, examining the ancient floor designs, with nobody in the church besides us. We are exploring some beautiful beaches which are extremely popular and are hard to access in the summer months. Today we went to a popular, beautiful beach. We parked our car, walked out, and explored the coastline. We were the only humans from horizon to horizon. We use our Puglia location as a base to explore other areas. Examples: we flew to Budapest to visit friends and see the city, and, another weekend, we drove to the Amalfi coast off-season. We have taken opportunities to develop new friendships with locals we have met and with expats in our area. We have integrated ourselves into our town community. Whether it be our gym, grocery store, butcher, or veggie guy, they all know the two Californians, and we always chat about how their lives are going while they inquire about ours. We have taken the initiative and explored other beautiful areas we had not seen before, such as Monopoli and Polignano. We have many other towns and places still to be explored. Insights: Being in Puglia during the off-season has been a fantastic experience because it enables us to dive deeper into the history and culture of this place, explore new areas, and develop new relationships. Watch for my book soon: "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=BQZLY&content-id=amzn1.sym.22f5776b-4878-4918-9222-7bb79ff649f4&pf_rd_p=22f5776b-4878-4918-9222-7bb79ff649f4&pf_rd_r=139-2813617-8702466&pd_rd_wg=TLIBp&pd_rd_r=d7eb5db5-db2f-4be9-9668-bd03b855b59b&ref_=aufs_ap_sc_dsk. More next time.

PART 38: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the Summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: I must admit that it seemed weird the first time I saw a religious procession in Italy. Though I grew up and still identify as catholic, the closest I had ever seen to a procession was the Macy's Thanksgiving parade. So when I saw a statue carried through the streets of the town where I was living, followed by people in hoods that looked like the KKK, police officers, officials, school children, a marching band, and, finally, the priest….I didn't get it. Step 2: In our town in Puglia, as well as all over Italy and other countries, there are religious processions during Easter and other saints' days. Participation is robust from all ages and layers of the town and surroundings. So I wondered about the meaning of what I was seeing. Step 3: My neighbor. A short time ago, I was chatting with our neighbor in our Puglian town, and he said: "I love the Good Friday procession. I can't wait until it arrives! I've participated in it since childhood, and it is so beautiful. I'm not a believer, but I love this event." I was struck by the "I'm not a believer" part. Why would someone participate in a religious procession if it didn't resonate with their faith experience? I reflected, asked my Italian friends, and then I had some realizations. Step 4: History: Religious processions probably evolved from figures of gods honored in the Roman empire carried through the streets. From the empire on, and probably before, the procession originated as an expression of the people asking for diving help. Rather than abolishing this practice, Christians "baptized" it, giving the practice new content. The seeking of divine help resonates with many involved in the procession, both past and present. Step 5: Realization. As I stood on the street watching the statue of Christ being carried by, and the lines of carabinieri, officials, school kids, and others, I looked at the faces of the onlookers across the street. There was every type of person present: young, old, and in between, professionals, workers, nuns, moms, dads, believers, unbelievers, good, not-so-good, and the rest of us. The amazing thing is that, at a procession, everyone is welcome. Nothing is asked of you. You can observe or participate or just be present. The procession is an expression of the history and culture of a people. Yes, also of a people's religious faith, but that is not a requirement. All are welcome to be part of that event that marks Good Friday or another feast day to make it memorable, give it meaning, and be part of the community. Step 6: So why is a procession in Italy so cool? Because it has the meaning that each participant brings to it. For some, it is a sacred moment, asking for diving help. For others, it is a historical continuation. For still others, it is an experience to admire another culture from the sidelines. For everyone, it is an expression of community in which everyone is welcome to play a part. Insights: The longer we are in Puglia, the less we feel like the outsider looking in. Even a religious procession, which can feel so foreign, can begin to have meanings we can relate to. The sense of community, faith, history, and welcome are all moments that make processions well worth participating in. MY NEW BOOK JUST CAME OUT: "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." On Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=Y8HHi&content-id=amzn1.sym.22f5776b-4878-4918-9222-7bb79ff649f4&pf_rd_p=22f5776b-4878-4918-9222-7bb79ff649f4&pf_rd_r=139-2813617-8702466&pd_rd_wg=LIblK&pd_rd_r=7d440c26-361f-4b9f-90c1-d9518e90ffa4&ref_=aufs_ap_sc_dsk . It is also on Barnes and Noble. https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/stories-from-puglia-mark-tedesco/1143316713. More next time.

PART 39: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the Summer and then back again in the winter. FYI: This blog post is more personal. Step 1: My experience: Sorrow and even tragedy can often reveal some of life's most important lessons. During a challenging year, I lost some friendships but deepened others. It was in 2012 that I lost my close friend Juan to an unexpected death. Suddenly, I was no longer fun to be around. I started living in a daze, somewhere between sorrow and disbelief. I remember telling a friend: "I feel like I am dead on the inside and am just pretending to be alive." Because I took healthy actions (therapy, friendships, spiritual practices, reaching out, etc.), I was able to overcome that depression, but the whole experience gave rise to questions that boiled down to this one: What do I want out of life? That was the first step on a road that led me to Italy. Step 2: The experiences of others. In California, a dear neighbor has led a fascinating life in Israel, Italy, and the UK. Her career path carried her from doing metal work to dabbling in Astrology. In a conversation not long ago, she confided, "I have the money to travel, but I don't have the health." From this conversation, another question surfaced, "Since I don't know how many years of excellent health I will have (even if I live a healthy lifestyle), what decisions should I make about the following chapters of my life? Step 3: Finance. I just retired from teaching. I was a high school social studies (World and US History) and language (Italian) teacher for over 25 years. In our retirement system, a teacher can max out if they retire after 31 years of teaching. So the next question became: "How long should I postpone retirement to create a more secure financial future?" Step 4: Relationship. About ten years ago, I met a wonderful man who would become my partner. Sharing life with someone else has influenced the questions I ask, especially the first one, "What do I want?" Step 5: In other blog posts, I've described how I realized I wanted a bigger life and how we decided to move to Italy (for half of the year). But the question became: When? When will we feel secure enough that we can minimize the risk? Step 6: After reflecting, discussing, and, yes, praying, we realized that the best decision would be to move to Italy sooner rather than later. We had both unexpectedly lost younger friends we were close to. We both have friends who are facing health challenges. And we both know people who never realized their dreams but got stuck in the "longing" phase. I could make more money if I retired at 31 years rather than 25 in the pension system, but the nagging question remained: How many years of healthy living would we have? How many years of living in Italy would we have together if we waited until we could get the most money out of retirement? Would we be able to hike up those Italian mountains or swim in those seas that we talk so much about? We found that there is never enough money in the bank to feel completely secure, so why not trust and roll the dice? So we did the math. Can we make this work with my early retirement (at 25 years in) and our combined income? All our life experiences came together to make the answer easy: Yes, we can and will do this. Now, not later. And we did. I retired in June, and we started living in Italy on July 1! Insights: Rather than using financial considerations alone to guide our decision to live in Italy, we decided to prioritize health, quality of life, and the desire to start living now the type of life we dream about. We took the leap, and we are here in Puglia. We can't believe how glorious and also smooth this process has been. Life is short. There are dreamers, and there are doers. We want to be both. My book is out NOW: "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . Barnes and Noble link: https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/stories-from-puglia-mark-tedesco/1143316713?ean=9781913680640 . More next time.

PART 40: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the Summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: As we explore towns in Puglia, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always unforgettable. This week let's explore Nardo', which is close to Lecce. Step 2: History. Though the history of Nardo's area dates from Paleolithic times, the town can be traced to 269 BC, when the Romans built an extension of the Via Appia through it. The city was controlled by the Byzantines, Lombards, Normans, Angevines, and the Kingdom of Naples. Nardo' is the 2nd largest and most populated city in the Province, right after Lecce, with about 32,000 inhabitants. Nardo' is one of the most culturally vibrant towns in the region. When the House of Acquaviva acquired it under their domain, Nardo became the leading cultural hotspot of Salento, the seat of many Universities, Academies, and literary and philosophical studies. Step 3: Appearance. Walking past the 15th-century Acquaviva castle, which seems to transform from orange during the day and moonstone at night, then into the historical center, I am first struck by the beautiful but restrained baroque architecture everywhere. From church facades to stately homes, the stone seems exuberant and dignified. The historical center is clean and very walkable, and the central plaza is an excellent place to meet friends or sit in a cafe and people-watch. Step 4: Sights. A list of things to see and do in Nardo' is subjective. What I like may not appeal to someone else. Therefore, the things I will share here are things in Nardo that we find interesting. (Feel free to share your favorites!) Piazza Salandra This piazza feels like the heart of Nardo', where people gather, stroll, and enjoy the sun. In the center is a beautiful baroque monument, the Immacolata Steeple, built in 1769 to thank the Virgin Mary for protecting the town from an earthquake. At Christmas, playful lights are projected on the surrounding buildings, and a festive atmosphere reigns. Cathedral I've seen a lot of churches in Italy, and I have to say that the cathedral in Nardo' is one of my favorites. The paintings in the apse are uniquely historical and modern, and the prayer chapel on the side, with its baroque architecture and modern sculptures of saints on the sides, beacons me to pause to remember how much I have to be grateful for. There is something about how the new and old form a harmony, with beautiful artwork and architecture, which translates into a peaceful space. The present cathedral probably stands on the site of a Byzantine church; then, in 1080, another church was built here by the conquering Normans, which became a cathedral in the early 15th century. Today's facade dates from the 1700s, and the interior contains both medieval and 19th-century frescoes. Alleys and winding streets The fun of Nardo' is wandering through its alleys to see what we bump into. Dozens of churches, cool buildings, and exciting renovations always make a walk through the historical center full of discoveries. Exploring without a rush or itinerary is best. Castle Giovanni Antonio Acquaviva d'Aragona commissioned the Castle of Nardò, built between the 15h and early 16th centuries. He aimed to make the city safer following the Turkish invasions of 1480. A large moat surrounded the building, but when it became a noble residence, it was filled in and transformed into a garden, today the Villa Comunale. The Acquaviva castle is today the seat of the Municipality; its defensive architecture hints at its purpose. Step 5: Cool place to enjoy the moment. Caffè Parisi in the central square has the atmosphere of an upscale coffee cafe in Paris or Madrid. A beautiful art nouveau-like interior and plentiful outdoor tables always invite us to make this cafe' one of our stops. The coffee is perfect, the pastries fresh, and the milkshakes are to die for. They have heartier food there also, which is always high quality. Step 6: Modern Nardo’. The town has some great shops, but I will leave this section alone since shopping isn't my thing. :) Insights: Many towns and locations in Puglia are lesser known, and these become the real gems of our time here. Many are so close that, within 30 minutes, we find ourselves standing in a great piazza, church, or neighborhood that we never knew existed. And that is part of the fun of Puglia: the discovery of beautiful places without an itinerary. My book is out NOW: "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . More next time.

PART 41: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the Summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: Behind every story is another story. When I taught history (25 years as a high school social studies teacher), I found that storytelling drew students in and made sense of all the other facts. Step 2: When we visited Puglia and started living there, there was a story behind that decision. As we explored and discovered this incredible area, we were fortunate to have solid friendships with locals who showed us their favorite historic and cultural places and revealed some of the stories that make those places significant. Step 3: Two cultures. We Californians have a relatively strong sense of identity, and when we started visiting and subsequently moved to Puglia, the two cultures, Californian and Puglian, intermingled. Sometimes the meeting of two cultures is humorous, other times enlightening, but at all times, fascinating. Step 4: Otranto and the floor. One of the first places our Puglian friends showed us was the floor of the cathedral of Otranto. The "Tree of Life" is fascinating because of the scope of knowledge it includes for its time; it was completed in 1165. The name of the monk Pantaleone, who designed and supervised the work, is at the back of the cathedral, inlaid on the floor. When I saw the floor and its symbolism of ancient world knowledge, I wondered about Pantaleone. Who was he? What kind of man could create something that embraces the entire world, excluding no one? This "wondering" led to research which led to reflecting, which led to the chapter on the "Revolutionary Monk." The well-researched chapter which tells the story of Pantaleone was the first chapter I wrote; the rest of the chapters in the book eventually grew around it. Step 5: Interviews. It is challenging to define "Puglia"; to avoid me, a Californian, giving meaning to this land, I sought ways to provide a voice for the people living there. So I devoted a few chapters of the book to interviews with Puglians born there and expats who chose Puglia as their home. Each person gives a glimpse into what Puglia is for them. Mohsen, who we befriended in Lecce, shares his passion for Egypt and has created a reproduction of the Tomb of Tutankhamun in Lecce for school children and others to visit. Other locals shared their love for the history and culture of their land, and several expats shared humorous situations in which different mentalities grapple with one another. The picture of Puglia, according to locals, is not complete but imparts the experience of those who live there to the reader. Step 6: Recreating ancient scenes. I have a big imagination. It may be because I like to read or because I've worked with high school students for 25 years, and they love a good story. Plus, I'm a visual thinker. I decided to recreate ancient stories in several book chapters because that is how I experience the writing process. When I am researching a topic to write about, at a certain point, I start to see a scene play out in my imagination. When that starts to happen, I write down the scene as best I can. So in my writing, I do not get inspired by the right words to write down, but instead, I "see" images that make up a story. So when I set out to tell the story of Nicholas of Bari, I did extensive research about his family, origins, education, and adventures. At a certain point, the imagination took over, and I could see Nicholas' father banging on his brother's door, announcing that his wife was with child. I could "see" Nicholas as an adult, tossing and turning during his travels one night, hearing the words in a dream that he should return home to discover his destiny. I could feel his sadness when he learned his path would take him away from his beloved uncle. I could see it all. I describe these scenes in the book to help the reader experience the story. Step 7: The big picture. Puglia is greater than this book. The reader will only glimpse some places that make this land unique. My hope is that the reader will use the "method" related to this book: look for the story behind a place, person, or event. That way, we will be less likely to judge and more open to learning. My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And NOW on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 . More next time.

PART 42: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: Where? When we started discussing moving to Italy five or six years ago, we were still determining where to base ourselves. We first went through a decision-making process since my partner, and I were on different pages regarding countries (see previous blog post). Once we both agreed on Italy, we needed to decide where. Step 2: Exploration. We started to use our vacation time to explore different areas and towns in Italy. We both love Tuscany but ruled it out right away: too expensive for us. We then spent some time in Umbria; we liked Perugia as a base. But the prices exceeded our projected budget, so we put that one on hold. Step 3: Near large cities. I used to live in Rome and remain very attached, but we could never afford to live there while keeping our home in California. So we explored outside the city; we had a friend who lived in Sermoneta, which has a beautiful medieval center and is easily commutable from Rome. We looked at houses and prices which could fit into our budget. But my partner wasn't ready, and I was unsure about taking that step, so we kept looking. "Where can we live outside of Rome, on a major train route, and find affordable housing?" I asked one of my Italian friends. He recommended a town north of Rome with about a 30-minute train ride to the city. "That's perfect!" I responded. I decided to spend four nights there to find out if this was "the" place. I had a feeling we would be living in this town. Step 4: Reality. I am so grateful for spending a few days in this beautiful town. It has an unspoiled historical center that oozes beauty. When I went, it was rainy weather; I remember watching the clouds drift by in the valley below. I sent photos to friends and relatives, who responded, "I wish I were there!" I even looked at several houses for sale. But after the first day, reality set in. "Where is everyone?" I asked myself, wandering through the empty streets. I would find myself alone as I explored the alleys, roads, and vistas. There was no life in the town. On the third day, I called my friend in Rome. "Can you pick me up? I'm dying here!" Don't get me wrong; I was not looking for a party city. But a beautiful historic town without any life wasn't speaking to me. After all the sacrifices in moving to Italy, I could imagine us watching TV every evening since there was nothing to do in the town. But we could watch TV in California. Step 5: Looking further. We kept looking at Italian towns, contacting real estate agents, and focussing on affordable areas. But since we had no other criteria than wanting to be in Italy and wanting to be on a budget, we soon got lost and stopped looking. Step 6: What is essential? After exploring several areas, we paused to ask ourselves the most critical question: What is important to us? The answer came quickly enough; in the end, relationships matter most. Step 7: Puglia. "Where are you from?" locals often ask us in our town. "California," we respond. Then, with a look of surprise, the comeback is almost always the same: "Then what are you doing here?" We laugh. Our Puglian town is not on the tourist radar; it is primarily working class. After laughing, we say the one word that makes sense: "Friendship." Step 8: Relationships and Puglia. We were ultimately pulled into this beautiful area because of our friendships with some locals we befriended in Rome but originally from Puglia. They drew us into their lives, and them into ours, until we have become like family. Of course, we moved to Puglia; it is our home, where we have a sense of belonging because of our relationships. Anywhere else, we would just be visiting outsiders. But there were other factors that drew us to Puglia. Step 9: Other factors that draw us to Puglia. Weather. The winters can be cold but mild compared to other areas, and the summers draw us all to the beaches. Being from northern California, the rain in the winter and the hot summers in Puglia merit the name "the California of Italy." History. Having been a history teacher for 25 years, I wanted to be where I could experience it, and Puglia does not disappoint. From the 1000-year-old designs on the floor of the cathedral of Otranto to the 16th-century guard towers along the coast to the ancient trulli in Alberobello, all the way to the historical center and tomb of St. Nicholas in Bari, Puglia has it all. Culture and festivals. Greek and other historical influences permeate the people and culture of Puglia. This influence can also be seen in the Pizzica festivals, which celebrate a particular form of dance and music. There are also religious and regional festivals that we can experience throughout the year, especially in the summer months. People. The people in Puglia have been welcoming, curious, and quick to offer friendship. Diversity: We have encountered a great mix of gay/straight residents; in our experience, whether someone is gay or not isn't on anybody's radar. Expat community. We have encountered many expats in Puglia who are willing to risk it all to have a bigger life, and I feel privileged to know them. Beaches and nature. The bluest turquoise waters, the most beautiful sandy and rocky beaches, and the fantastic sunsets and panoramas are a few of the natural beauties in Puglia. For example, last Summer, a group of us went to the beach and watched the sunset from the water; we then gathered on the beach and shared the food we all brought. As the stars appeared and the city lights illuminated the coast in the distance, it seemed like a magical moment. Affordability. We get more house for our money (purchasing or renting) than in many other areas and the general cost of living is lower. Insights: We discovered that asking ourselves what is most important to us illuminated our search for our home base in Italy. We needed to ask that question to have a focus or guide. After we realized that relationships in Puglia are our priority, we began to discover the other marvels of this land: the beaches, historical towers, architecture, food, festivals, and beautiful towns and cities. We are so grateful for our life here in Puglia because of our friendships. My book is now out: "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And NOW on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 . More next time.

PART 44: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the Summer and then back again in the winter. Our situation is that we live in Italy for about half the year due to our obligations in California. But what are the regulations for those living in Italy part time? When living in Italy as a resident or part time as a non resident, it is essential to know the guidelines of the Schengen Area. Before starting our stay, we researched the guidelines and we always use a calculator (see below) to confirm that we are within the Schengen regulations. Step 1: What is the Schengen Area? This is a zone, currently consisting of 27 European countries, which allow for unrestricted movement of people. The countries in this zone follow common rules for controlling external borders. Step 2: What are the countries that are members of the Schengen zone? The 27 Schengen countries are Austria, Belgium, Czech Republic, Croatia, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Italy, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, and Switzerland. Step 3: Rules concerning visitors to the Schengen Area. For travelers transiting through or intending to stay in the Schengen area for a short period, the EU has established common visa rules. Step 4: Visa free visitors. For visa-free visitors, the duration of stay in the Schengen countries is up to 90 days over 180 days in retrospect. Step 5: Consequences of staying in the Schengen Zone without a visa: Overstaying Schengen visa limitations (90 days out of 180) can result in a number of consequences: unpleasant interviews, fines, deportation and entry ban. Step 6: Who does this affect? If one has not established residency in Italy but is living here for part of the year, following the guidelines of the Schengen Zone for non residents is essential. Otherwise one becomes a nonlegal resident with all its consequences. Step 7: How to calculate one’s stay: This is often called the 90/90 rule (90 days in followed by 90 out) but it is a little more nuanced than that. Since we want to always be sure that we are in compliance, we found this calculator to be the most useful: https://www.visa-calculator.com . Step 8: Some come to reside in Italy and establish full time residency. The advantages of this include being able to live in the country full time, being able to purchase a car and sharing in the rights and obligations of EU residency. But for some, like us, because of obligations, we can only live in this wonderful place for part of the year. Thus it becomes important to keep up to date on any changes to guidelines regarding the Schengen Zone. Step 9: For more information, see this EU website: https://www.consilium.europa.eu/en/policies/schengen-area/#:~:text=to%20new%20challenges%3F-,What%20is%20Schengen%3F,travel%20area%20in%20the%20world .. Insights: Living in Italy in compliance with Schengen guidelines is one of our top priorities since dwelling in two countries can get complicated without an understanding and implementation of how all the moving parts fit together. My book is now out: "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 . More next time.

PART 45: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the Summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: As we explore towns in Puglia, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. This week let's explore Lecce. Step 2: History. Stories and legends date Lecce to the fall of Troy, but the archeological evidence reveals that the Messapian tribe first inhabited the area and then was dominated by the Romans. The town center's arena and the Roman theater testify to the thriving Roman community in Lecce. The layers of history continue, as Lecce was under Byzantine domination until the Normans took over the area in about 1000 AD, followed by other dynasties connected to France and Venice. The turning point was in the 15th and 16th centuries when Charles V of Hapsburg gained control of the area. A turning point: Saint Orontius of Lecce was attributed to saving the Lecce citizens from the plague, which decimated the kingdom of Naples in 1566. He thus became Lecce's patron saint. Why all this history? Because Lecce's architecture, buildings, and layout express these events. Step 3: Architecture. "Florence of the South." Lecce flourished and developed its Puglian baroque architectural style between the 16th and 17th centuries. The city has many examples of the characteristic Lecce stone, which, being a light stone with a yellow hue, gives the town its evening glow. Some principal examples of this architectural style include the cathedral, the Basilica of the Holy Cross, and the church of St. Nicholas and Cataldo. Because of the number of historical treasures, including baroque churches, palaces, Roman theaters, and the 16th-century castle, Lecce is often called the "Florence of the South." Step 4: Sights. A list of things to see and do in Lecce is subjective (Feel free to share your favorites!) What I am drawn to may not appeal to someone else; the things I will share here are sights in Lecce that interest us. Piazza Sant'Oronzo This piazza feels like the city's heart, with street performers, cafes, a Roman amphitheater, and people-watching. With gelato in hand, we often head directly here and find a place near the arena to sit, chat, people-watch, and enjoy the moment. Cathedral Plaza When we enter Piazza del Duomo in Lecce, I always feel embraced. It is one of the largest enclosed piazzas in Italy and is often teeming with activity. I especially enjoy the piano player who somehow gets his piano to the piazza to entertain the crowds. The beautiful illuminated baroque architecture always makes my jaw drop. The cathedral itself is nicer on the outside than the interior. It feels dark and heavy when I step inside, but it is worth at least one visit. Baroque churches. Visiting the baroque churches (Santa Croce and others) in the historical center is always enjoyable; they are sacred spaces and historical monuments that speak to everyone. They now charge admission to raise money, but it is worth it, and the 16th-century churches need the funds to keep up the buildings. Even though Baroque isn't my favorite church architecture, there is something cleaner and lighter about this style in Lecce. Streets and alleys Getting lost in the historical center in Lecce is the way to come across interesting shops, cafes, churches, and monuments. We sometimes wander in and out of streets and alleys, looking into windows, ducking into courtyards, and gazing at beautiful buildings. Step 5: Cool places. Everyone has their "cool" places that they prefer, and I can think of two of them that we like in Lecce. Gelato “Settimo Cielo” "Settimo Cielo" is a gelato place on the edge of the historical center in Lecce, which has fantastic gelato. It is always fresh, packed with fruit or other flavors, and we return more than we should. Say hello to Angelo if you drop by. Porto San Biagio Three (out of four) remaining gates lead into the historical center of Lecce. One of our favorites is Porto San Biagio because it is perfect when one can sit outside with an Aperol spritz and enjoy the moment when the weather is nice. We sometimes drive the 20 minutes to Lecce to sit at our favorite cafe at Porto S. Biagio and drink in the atmosphere and the Aperol. Insights: Getting close and personal with a city is the way for a place to become meaningful. Lecce lends itself to this type of relationship. Lecce has everything, whether one is into architecture, history, food, entertainment, or just people-watching. My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 . More next time.

PART 47: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the Summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: How is our life different in Puglia? How is it the same as in California? I reflected on this today and would like to share some of our experiences. Our weekends tend to be more unstructured, but I will describe our typical weekday. Step 2: Early morning. I can't function without coffee, so I first roll out of bed and turn on my American percolator. Yes, I admit it. I like the sound and smell of coffee percolating, so I brought one over and, before anyone else is up, I turn on my coffee, return to bed, then get up when the coffee smell is wafting into the bedroom. It is gym time once the coffee is consumed and my brain is awake. My partner and I walk to our local gym and have a focused workout at the beginning of our day. Step 3: Healthy breakfast. I found myself eating croissants for breakfast every morning in Puglia, so I changed that habit, and now, right after the gym, I consume a protein-rich meal. Step 4: Mid-morning. We drive 10 minutes to a beautiful coastal town (Santa Caterina) and have our "real" coffee. Our table is about 30 feet from the Ionian Sea: the sun sparkles, the water laps, and the coffee is fantastic. We have made friends among the staff there and other friends in our area, and we always enjoy a laugh or chat to start the day. It is a moment of relaxation as we gaze at the sea and smile. Step 5: Late morning. After coffee, it is field trip time. We get out every day to explore a new area or return to a previously visited site to savor it more deeply. This morning, for example, we drove to Santa Maria Leuca to view the panoramas, lighthouse, church, and sea (without the presence of summer tourists). There is so much history, culture, and nature in Puglia that we have many choices of destinations within an hour of us. We also go hiking in the hills above Santa Caterina or to our favorite beaches before the crowds arrive. Step 6: Errands. Though I'm not too fond of shopping, sometimes we must get supplies at the grocery store or mall; when we do this, we sacrifice our field trip. We keep this from happening too often, but sometimes we can't avoid it. Step 7: Lunch/pranzo. We eat lunch more often at home during the week compared with last Summer. Eating at home allows us to control our eating habits and stay within budget. Step 8: Afternoons. Slowing down to rest for an hour at the beginning of the afternoon is a habit in Puglia that makes the day more relaxing. We are learning that the riposo is sacred. After riposo: I usually devote some time to writing, either working on my new book (8 books published so far) or on a blog. It is a way to tap into creativity and achieve a sense of accomplishment. Step 9: Evenings. During the Summer, evenings are for friendship. Cultivating relationships is number one on our list here in Puglia; usually, local friends reach out to go to a festival or pizzeria or walk around Lecce together. Sometimes we organize a dinner, gathering, or just an aperitif at Santa Caterina. In the winter months, when local friends are away for work, I take a long walk every evening before dinner to explore the historical parts of our town; I wander in and out of churches, courtyards, and alleys and clear my head. These evening walks help me slow down, stop planning and be grateful. Insights: We are discovering that living in Italy is more meaningful if we have fulfilling and purposeful days. We are learning to use our time here to explore beautiful areas, build meaningful relationships and become part of the rhythm of life. More next time. My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .

PART 48: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: When we decided to start living in Italy, it was also with the idea that we would explore Europe, using Puglia as our base. So far, we have taken several such trips in the summer and winter months. Step 2: Why? We travel to grow in understanding, seek new perspectives and enlarge our horizons. When we first came up with the idea of living in Italy, besides the beautiful life waiting for us in this country, the travel possibilities drew us. My partner and I are curious about other cultures, languages, history, architecture, and people. Being based in Europe facilitates visiting other EU countries, and we wanted to take full advantage of this. From Puglia, we have taken several trips inside and out of Italy. I will share a few things about these adventures. Step 3: How? Getting there: Budget airlines, trains, and driving. Budget airlines: Many of us have experienced budget airlines in Europe, whether Ryanair, Wizzair, Easyjet, etc. We recently took Wizzair to Hungary; our experience was alright. The plane left on time, we paid a little extra to book a seat, and the flight was only slightly over an hour from Bari airport. On the way back, however, I was stopped and told that my carry-on bag was over the allowed dimensions and I would have to pay 40 euros to bring it on board. When I said, "But in Italy, I didn't have to pay," their response was, "This is Hungary." So I paid the fee. I've had mixed experiences with Ryanair; you get what you pay for. On one flight, the attendants constantly tried to sell us stuff, like raffle tickets, perfumes, and other worthless junk. But it was cheap and acceptable for short flights. Trains: We have had great experiences with trains within Italy and beyond. We always take the fast trains (Frecce) and, if booked in advance, a first-class ticket becomes ridiculously cheap. What I love about the train is that we get to skip the whole airport scene, get up and walk around, and enjoy the sights swirling by. Despite some minor delays, the experience has been overwhelmingly positive. I use the Italian trains app on my phone to book my tickets. Driving. Sometimes we want to travel to a place that doesn't have a convenient flight connection, or the train schedule doesn't work for our plans. So we take matters into our own hands, jump in the car, and drive. I used to be afraid to drive in Italy since it seemed more challenging than what I was used to in California. Plus, driving a stick shift intimidated me. Finally, after years of being held back by fear, I rented a car on my own and drove around Italy for a week. It didn't take long to realize that it was no big deal. The different driving styles become second nature quickly, as does the stick shift. So far, our longer road trips from Lecce include the Dolomites (far!) and the Amalfi coast. Sharing costs helps since the cost of tolls and fuel adds up quickly. Step 4: Sights. Some details of our trips. Budapest: We live outside of Lecce, close to Nardo', and our two airports are Brindisi (45 minutes) and Bari (2 hours). We found that Bari has many more international flights which fit our weekend travel schedule. When our friends invited us to visit them in Budapest, we found a convenient Wizzair flight from Bari, which only took about an hour to arrive in Hungary. We were surprised at how easy it was. We booked an Airbnb for Budapest, one of the best apartments we've ever stayed in! The parliament building was right outside our window, as was the Danube. Among hits and misses with AirBnB, this was a hit! Traveling from Puglia to Budapest gave me a weird feeling that we just stepped onto a different planet. It was so different from where we were an hour beforehand! We arrived on a Friday and had to leave on a Monday; could we see the city in that limited time? We certainly didn't see and do everything that Budapest offers, but with the help of local friends, we got a good experience of the city. We were amazed by its history, culture, elegance, and panoramas. We also gained some understanding of the evolution of the political situation, which I will not go into here. This trip from Puglia was terrific, and we were struck by how easy it was. Puglia is a great base. Dolomites: Our local Puglian friends invited us on a road trip to the Dolomites during the summer, and we jumped on it. Since it is about a 13-hour drive, we decided to break it into two days. Our first night was in Verona. We learned from this trip that driving 10+ hours to Verona included a positive and a negative. The positive: Verona is a beautiful and incredible city that merits more time. The negative: we should have calculated better where to stop that first night since we were on the road for about ten hours; by the time we got to Verona, we were spent. The next time we try to drive from Lecce to the Dolomites, Loreto (6 hours) would be a better stop, breaking the drive into two even days of driving. We are still in our driving learning curve. Impressions: I have to say that driving from the beaches of Salento to the dramatic Dolomite mountains was similar to our Budapest trip in that it felt like we got on a spaceship and landed on another planet! So much was different that it was hard to digest: the weather, vistas, people, food, habits, churches, architecture; I would go on and on. We are so happy that we traveled from Salento to the Dolomites because it imparted an experience of the diversity of this beautiful country that offers so much for those willing to seek it. Insights: Using Puglia as a base, whether in Lecce or Alberobello, is entirely doable. One's understanding of the world and one's place in it can increase by stepping out of one's area, perspective, and point of view and walking down the paths, streets, and boulevards of another. My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 . More next time.