PART 51: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: As we explore towns in Puglia, we discover some incredible places, vistas, and history. Our local Puglian friends encouraged us to drive down to Santa Maria Leuca and then back to our area (near Nardo) through Castro, along the Adriatic coast. So we did just that. Come with us. Step 2: Where? The lighthouse, church, town, and panoramas of Santa Maria Leuca are breathtaking, but I will describe that in another blog. Here we will focus on the drive. After viewing the S. Maria Leuca marvels, our friends suggested that we take a longer way back home, through the town of Castro, to see what we might discover. So after our visit, we hopped in our car, put "Castro" in Google Maps, and took the road towards the Adriatic coast. Step 3: What? The drive. "Wow! These views are awesome! Look at that!" we exclaimed as we left S. Maria Leuca behind. We were enthusiastic about the deep blue Adriatic waters on the right, rising hills with beautiful villas on the left, and occasional small villages and homes on the road's edge. "Imagine the views of the water if we lived there!" my partner said, laughing. Since exploration was our focus, we decided to be spontaneous and get off the main road; we turned down an unknown street and found ourselves heading toward the water, having no idea what lay below. As we zigzagged down, a small beach town revealed itself, lined with whitewashed homes, a few shops, and some water-related businesses. Once we got to the bottom, we spotted the remains of a 16th-century defensive tower; we pulled up and jumped out of the car. I practically ran up to it because I wanted to touch the stones at the base of that tower and imagine the soldiers or others who occupied it centuries before. What were they feeling, seeing, or expecting? We sat down and watched the water lapping against the tower's stones for a few minutes before driving on. We continued to turn down unknown roads, found hidden streets with similar treasures, and stumbled on an ancient church with wide open doors. Of course, we stuck our noses in. Castro There are two parts to Castro: the Marina, where the beaches and sunbathers are, and the historical center, where one can experience a 16h century castle, a Byzantine church, and a clifftop piazza with stunning sea views. Castro is a quieter town than Gallipoli or Otranto, but it is cute. There's no sandy beach in the town, but there are beach clubs in the summer with platforms and deck chairs, and umbrellas hovering over the rocks. There is a piazza with a coffee bar and a promenade (Lungomare), which becomes lively in the evenings. But the main draw to Castro is the historical center. There is a large piazza with amazing sea views from the Belvedere di Castro. Getting a spritz at the bar close by and watching the sunset is easy and rewarding. Next to the 16th-century castle (Castello Aragonese) is an archeological museum, but I enjoyed watching the castle silhouette against the setting sun. Wandering around Castro, we stumbled on the city's cathedral, Chiesa dell'Annunziata, which was built in 1171 and has a beautiful Romanesque facade. Attached to it are the remains of a 10th-century Byzantine church with traces of frescoes. A few steps past the piazza is the Palazzo Vescovile, a privately owned palace that the owner restored; he sometimes opens it for tours or just visits. At the end of the evening, we took the steps down to the port; it was a perfect ending to a wonderful day. Insights: Getting out of our comfort zone and exploring areas that we are not familiar with leads to discoveries of beauty, history, and culture. The road to Castro is one of these areas, and the town itself was such a beautiful place that we resolved to experience again. More next time. My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .

PART 49: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the Summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: As we explore towns in Puglia, we discover some fascinating stories behind what we see. Some stories are connected to a building; other times, to a piece of art. This week we will look deeper into the skulls and bones stored in cases in the side chapel of the Cathedral of Otranto. Come with us. Step 2: What? I'm not into skeletons. I lived in Rome for eight years and never went to the "Bone church." I'm not frightened of human skeletons; I am just not interested in seeing them as a tourist attraction. But when we went to the Cathedral of Otranto to see the 1000-year-old "Tree of Life" floor, I was drawn to the side chapel, which houses bones, behind glass, and a stone, under an altar. I was intrigued because behind these remains is a story. In the 1400s, the Ottoman Empire expanded; in 1480, 120 Ottoman ships landed in Otranto. Their goal was to conquer and use the city to control southern Italy, slowly working their way up to Rome. Around the same time, the Ottomans attacked Vieste, Taranto, and Brindisi. 20,000 Ottoman Turks invaded and sacked Otranto that year, burning, destroying, and looting the city. They killed about 12,000 residents and sold about 5000 women and children into slavery. The remnants of this attack are the canon balls strewn throughout the city today. But 813 men and the bishop were hiding in the crypt of the cathedral of Otranto. They were eventually discovered, taken into custody, and given the choice to convert or be executed. The local tailor, Antonio Primaldo, stood up and said: "We believe in the Son of God, Jesus Christ, and are ready to die for him a thousand times." Primaldo was the first to be executed (beheaded), followed by all the others, and their bodies were dumped and remained unburied on Minerva Hill (now called Martyrs Hill), for more than a year, until September 13, 1481, when the army of Prince Alfonso of Aragon recaptured Otranto. The remains were subsequently taken to the cathedral, where a chapel was built in 1711 to the right of the main altar. Most of the bones were placed in glass cases behind the altar (which can be seen today). The stone below the altar is said to be where they were beheaded. During the occupation, the Ottomans badly damaged the cathedral; they used it for everything, from a mosque to a stable. When the city was re-taken, the rose window and some of the 12th-century frescoes in the crypt were eventually restored along with the unique Norman mosaic floor, considered one of the most important examples of 12th-century art. Today the cathedral stands as a monument to art, history, culture, and also to the faith of these men. Step 3: Why? Why is this story important or even interesting? The bones of the martyrs of Otranto are fascinating because they testify to both intolerance and the fortitude of the human spirit. On the one hand, the bones in the chapel of Otranto remind me that I am not immune to intolerance when faced with those who are different in their beliefs, lifestyle, appearance, or culture. On the other hand, the bones remind me of "legacy" since these men would have been forgotten by history if they hadn't affirmed their beliefs in the face of adversity. Insights: As I wander through the beautiful streets of Otranto and look at the shops and cool restaurants, I usually stumble across at least one or two canon balls lodged in the stones. They remind me that Otranto is more than cute shops and fascinating architecture; the city's history includes cannon balls, defensive systems, and a burial area in the cathedral. When I see the bones of the martyrs of Otranto, I am not just looking at human remains but at the stories of 813 people, with their individual histories and backgrounds, whose lives converged at the same point on that day. Their bones tell a story to the visitor willing to look, pause and reflect. More next time. My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .

PART 50: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: In a few days, we will return to Puglia after spending 90 days out (in California). We are following the 90/90 guidelines, according to the Schengen zone rules. What am I looking forward to in our life in Puglia? Step 2: Local friends. Friendship has become central to our new life in Puglia, and I look forward to continuing and deepening our friendships with locals who live in Puglia (and a few who live in Rome). Puglians and Italians, generally, are open, affectionate, and interesting people ready to laugh, share stories, and form bonds. I am looking forward to seeing those faces again who warm my heart. Step 3: Expats. Taking steps to have a better life by establishing ourselves in Italy has borne the unexpected fruit of encountering others on similar adventures. So many times, I have said to my partner, "We are meeting the most interesting people here!" I've always been intrigued by those who want more from life than taking care of responsibilities and fulfilling commitments. I remember a counselor at a high school where I worked; he had long hours and a family. Yet, he had such a passion for music that he made the time to play the saxophone with his band at gigs on weekends. People who want a bigger life are interesting, and we have met, and I am sure we will meet fascinating people in Puglia who dare to live their dream. I am looking forward to seeing them again. Step 4: Way of life in Puglia. Slower pace It's funny that I find the pace of life in Puglia slower on the one hand and more intense on the other. Life feels slower because it is a culture that knows how to savor the moment, enjoy good friends and food, and celebrate traditions and history. Life also feels more intense because of the closeness of friendships, the cultural and other sites to visit, and the travel opportunities. Life on the streets My first experience living in Italy was eight years in Rome, beginning at age 19. I fell in love with life on the streets: street performers, friends strolling, gelaterias, free concerts, and people-watching. In Puglia, we love walking in our town, Lecce, Nardo, or other areas and enjoying the people, sites, vistas, and sounds; we go out without a plan and always encounter exciting people and places. Much better than watching TV every night. Focus on friendship We have made friends with some locals in Puglia; their sense of community and friendship is rubbing off on us. These relationships have transformed our experience of Puglia and given us a sense of home. History and Culture I taught World History for twenty-five years; being in Italy makes me feel like a child who ditched his parents and found himself in a candy store with his dad's wallet! The history and cultural wealth are everywhere, from the 16th-century towers of Salento to the Trulli of Alberobello. I love to experience history, not only study it, and being in Southern Italy brings the past to life. Outdoor activities My partner and I are drawn to an active lifestyle and get restless if we sit around all day, even in a beautiful area. Besides training at the gym daily in our town, I look forward to our hikes in Puglia; we often climb the hills around Santa Caterina to enjoy the views and discover new vistas. I also can't wait to swim in the sea again at a sandy beach; I'm not too fond of the rocky shores that some of my friends go to. Cycling is also an activity that I engage in every day in California, but I still haven’t found a good cycling area near our place in Puglia. Step 5: Exploring Europe. In a previous blog, I wrote about using Puglia as a base; this is an aspect of our life in Italy that I look forward to every time. This summer, we plan on driving to Tuscany and flying to Vienna; I can't wait! Step 6: Visiting Rome. There is something about Rome that feels like home and speaks to me. I lived there during my formative years and always found the city magical, despite its faults. I can't wait to spend some time there while we are in Puglia. Insights: Being away from our life in Puglia for 90 days helps me appreciate what we have and seek to deepen and build on it. More next time. My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .

PART 52: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: I don't want to ignore the challenges of living in Puglia in this blog; it is better to confront them head-on and learn ways to deal with them. Since I have asthma, one of these challenges is the air quality in Puglia. Let's go through challenges and figure out how to deal with them. Step 2: Winter wood pellets. Italy and the EU are in a difficult situation since energy is expensive, and heating one's home in the winter can take a big chunk of one's budget. The solution that many are turning to are wood burning pellets. But the consequences include: Smoke from wood-burning stoves contains fine particulate matter and other dangerous substances like carbon monoxide. The fine particulate matter released by wood burning has been shown to "flood" the home and impact the community. In Italy, wood-burning stoves comprise 75 percent of the total health costs of pollution from domestic heating and cooking. When we were in Puglia over the winter, the smoke from wood pellets was so strong that it irritated my lungs and made hanging laundry outside challenging since clothes absorb the smoke smell. But it is understandable why many turn to wood pellet heating because it is more cost-effective. Step 3: Secondhand smoke. Coming from California, we are not used to the amount of secondhand smoke we breathe here in Puglia. We have a favorite coffee place where we start our day in front of the Ionian Sea. It has a beautiful outdoor seating area which we love. Since Italy currently doesn't have laws regulating smoking in outdoor cafe areas, the place often fills with fumes when smokers arrive. From another culture, seeing mothers smoking beside their children at a table or a group of grandmas light up seems strange. The photos of tumors and corrupted lungs on the back of the cigarette packs also seem odd but make little impact. Smoking was even more prevalent when I lived in Italy in the 1980s, so there is definite progress. But, for now, breathing some secondhand smoke here cannot be avoided. Step 4: Car exhaust. Car exhaust is everywhere; whether one lives in New York, Tokyo, or Gallipoli, it is not confined to one country or culture. We like to live in a town where we can walk to the historical center or a bar for a coffee. Row houses are common in our neighborhood, with streets on both sides of the buildings. The consequence is a lot of car exhaust from the main street in the back and some, but less, exhaust from the front. If one chooses to live in a city or town, car exhaust will be part of life. Or one could choose to live in the countryside, away from cars and traffic. Will the air always be pure there? See the next point. Step 5: Burning vegetation. This week we have driven through a couple of smoke clouds generated by farmers burning vegetation, such as dead olive trees. Yesterday evening our house was filled with smoke from vegetation burning in the fields nearby, especially in the summer. If one chooses to live in the countryside to avoid city air pollution, it would be wise to investigate the vegetation-burning practices in that area. Step 6: Navigating the challenges of air quality. When creating a life in Italy, or in any foreign country for that matter, it is essential to figure out what I can change and what I cannot. The first thing I can change is my attitude: things will differ from my home country. Not necessarily better or worse, but different. The second is to decide how to navigate these differences. Wood pellets Through trial and error, we have learned not to leave windows open during wood pellet season and to dry our laundry inside. (We ended up washing and rewashing laundry to get the smoke smell out until we decided that it would be easier to set up the indoor clothesline.) Secondhand smoke We have no control over whether someone smokes, so we can sit indoors, where smoking is prohibited, or outdoors. If we sit outside and someone sits next to us and smokes, we don't let it ruin our time. We either put up with it and enjoy our surroundings, move to a different table, or continue our day elsewhere. Car exhaust Since we like living in a town, car exhaust is part of our experience, which we have accepted. Lately, however, my lungs have been feeling inflamed, and my asthma increasing, so we will have to play this one by ear. Burning vegetation Farmers burning vegetation in fields sometimes affects us at home when the wind blows in a certain direction. We close the windows on one side of the house, which usually solves the problem. Insights: I hope this blog doesn't come off as negative. There are challenges to living in Puglia, and if we are going to make this a success, we have to find ways to navigate them to keep the experience positive. One of our best decisions was to rent rather than buy immediately, since air quality can impact our long-term housing decisions. More next time. My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .

PART 53: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the summer and then back again in the winter. We are beginning our second year of living in Puglia. What are some insights we have gleaned after a year? How is living here for a second year different from our first? Year 1. Moving to Puglia last summer fulfilled about six years of dreaming, research, and planning. After losing some close friends who were too young to die, we realized that life is short and it is better to start to fulfill the dream as soon as I could retire early as a teacher. When we arrived in Puglia, we wanted to take full advantage of being in Europe by planning daily "field trips" in our area, long driving trips (Amalfi coast, Dolomites), and some international trips, including Budapest. History and culture are coming to life through our travels so far, and we feel privileged to be in a place where an international life is easy. Our priorities began shifting during our first year as we realized that relationships matter most. Our local friends became like family, and meeting expats on parallel paths, seeking a bigger life is fascinating. Between building new and old bonds and exploring interesting cultures and areas, our horizons are growing, and our life, too, feels bigger and more fulfilling. Year 2. We just began Year 2 in Puglia, and rather than jumping in the car to see the cathedral floor in Otranto, or the beautiful coast and town of Polignano, we started our stay by running over to the mall once and the grocery store thrice. Feeling settled became a priority. We have a sense of stability now, and the urgency to see and do as much as we can because time is short has given way to a sense of calm, knowing there is time for more travel and new experiences, but it doesn't have to be today. The focus is on taking care of the practical steps of daily living. Getting supplies for the house Joining a new gym Beginning a healthy eating and exercise routine Our morning coffee Another focus is on tweaking our experience in Puglia to help our experience here grow. Some decisions we have made in year 2 include: we will start coming in the Fall and Spring rather than the Summer and Winter. In this way we will take advantage of milder weather and better rates and ease of travel. Another decision we have made is to investigate purchasing a home at some point. The third decision is to plan our local and international trips, using Puglia as a base, months in advance; we have found that, with the tourist industry in full swing, it is challenging to travel on last minute whims. Next week we will probably start going on our local field trips, but all in good time. Our friendship bonds are still strong, but we realize that our local friends also have their own lives; their lives don't stop because the "Californiani" have arrived. Going from the role of visitor to resident means that we are responsible for planning our days in fulfilling ways, enjoying time with our local friends when we can, and engaging in meaningful activities when they cannot. What next? This summer, we have planned road trips and a long weekend in Vienna as we continue to take advantage of the privilege of living in Italy. Friends are also visiting, and we are so grateful to share our life and show them some of the places we love. Local friendships are becoming more settled, and our sense of responsibility for planning our days is increasing. As stated above, we will plan to be in Puglia in the Spring and Fall, we will be open to new housing possibilities (renting/purchasing) and will take more advantage of using Puglia as a base. We are unsure what will come next, but we are comfortable with having an organic experience in Puglia as the next steps reveal themselves at the right moment. Insights. We are beginning year 2 in Puglia with the realization that, as visitors, we often tried to fit many experiences into a limited number of days. Now that we have established a life here, the sense of urgency to see or do as much as possible is gone, and we are adapting more to the rhythm of life here: Slowing down. Staying in the present moment. Planning our activities rather than waiting for local friends to develop plans. Spending time with friends while respecting their lives. Gratitude for what we have. More next time. My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .

PART 54: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the Summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: As we explore towns in Puglia, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. But recently we did something different. We hopped on a train in Lecce and hopped off in Rome five and a half hours later. Our goal? To experience underground Rome. Come with us. Step 2: Why? Though we love living in Puglia, I periodically get the itch to spend time in Rome since I first lived there in the 1980s (for eight years). Rome always feels like home; it is a pivotal part of my history. But that is another story. Since I have seen the main sights in Rome multiple times, we decided to plan a visit to the city that would focus on the archeological areas: underground Rome. Step 3: How? We found that we could obtain a deep discount on our first class train ticket if booked in advance. So we planned our trip the month before, located lodgings (see the blog post on monastery stays), and got on the early train at the Lecce railway station. In the early afternoon, we arrived at the Rome train station and navigated through the confusing maze of buses until we found the ones that would let us off close to Piazza Navona, where our lodging was located. Our first appointment was the following morning at 9:30 am. Step 4: Sights. Necropolis tour: St. Peter's Oral and written history, for centuries, claimed that the apostle Peter was buried below the present St. Peter's, but excavations began in the 1940s. Most archeologists assumed they would not find much after almost 2000 years. However, archaeologists found a burial ground (aka a necropolis) dating back to the 4th century, which is now the beginning of the Necropolis tour below St. Peter's. The tour brings a small group of visitors below the basilica floor and then further down below the tombs of the popes to a cold and dark archeological area; walking on ancient streets, visitors pass ancient mausoleums and testaments of love to those who passed. The tour is organized like a "whodunit," as the guide and participants seek evidence for the location of the burial place of Peter. I don't want to give the end of the story, but the tour is one of the most amazing experiences that I have had in Rome. Getting tickets can be challenging (Excavations office, Vatican/Ufficio Savi), but the effort is well worth it. Domus Aurea History was changed when a 15th-century man descended through a hole on the Esquiline hill, candle in hand, and looked up. He didn't know it yet, but he discovered Nero's Golden House, the Domus Aurea, the dream of an emperor more known for his madness than his accomplishments. Visitors can walk through the excavated rooms of the Domus, accompanied by an archeologist, who brings the rooms and frescoes alive. At one point, visitors put on virtual reality headsets, revealing the complex's glory. I found that the fascinating part of the visit was the thought of Nero and his guests. Unpredictable and vengeful, an invitation to the emperor's table was not what senators and aristocrats longed for. They tried to avoid Nero as much as possible. As I stood in the circular room, with its oculus and waterfall, I wondered what Nero's guests felt, standing where I was, as they wondered what his next move would be. Would he require one of the senator's wives to have sex with him in the next room? Would he take offense at an offhand remark? Would he start singing for his guests for hours, expecting long, heartfelt applause? There I stood, amid it all, almost hearing the thoughts and fears of those who stood on this spot. St. Clement's Exploring St. Clement's captures the experience of going back in time. The Basilica of San Clemente is a multi-level time machine: there are two churches, one built over the other; the lower church was, in turn, built over Roman buildings of the 1st century. Just stepping into the ground-level church brings one into the 12th century, with its incredible mosaic apse, ancient floor, and 6th-century marble chancel. Descending further, one enters the 4th-century church, with its stunning medieval frescoes dating from the 8th-11 century. When one descends even further, one is embraced by the 1st century, with its Mithraic temple and across a narrow alleyway, a large public building, around whose foundations flow the lost waters of Rome. It is difficult to describe the feelings I had as I sat on a stone seat outside the Mithraic temple, in the very place where ancient soldier worshipers would have sat before being admitted. As I listened to the underground river rushing behind its stone walls, the mystery of St. Clement's began to reveal itself. The layers of history demonstrate that humanity always seeks the meaning behind the everydayness of life, no matter what era. House of Augustus and Livia The House of Augustus and the House of Livia are part of the imperial compound, which contains some of the best surviving examples of ancient Roman painting anywhere. Admiring the same artworks that Augustus himself gazed at two millennia ago is an incredible experience. The most impressive room is that identified as the emperor's study on the upper floor. According to contemporary sources, Augustus would retreat here to think or study privately. Standing inside the walls of Livia's home, gazing at her garden frescoed walls, or into the intimate study of Augustus, where he planned and plotted the empire, I can't help but feel connected with the real people behind an empire; these people had a dream of greatness and made it come true. Insights: Exploring the archaeological findings under the streets of Rome reveal the city's roots that many tourists miss. I am grateful that we have the opportunity to visit there from Puglia when the ancient city beckons us. More next time. In my book “She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome”, I bring the reader into the stories, past and present, that make the city unique. Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/She-Seduced-Me-Love-Affair-ebook/dp/B09885RSZZ/ref=tmm_kin_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&qid=&sr= . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/She-Seduced-Me-Love-Affair/dp/1913680045/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 .

PART 55: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: As we explore towns in Puglia, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. This week let's explore Santa Caterina. Step 2: History. The beautiful town of Santa Caterina was born from violence. When the Saracens often attacked this coastal area, Santa Caterina was a defensive post, as evidenced by the two 16th-century watchtowers. The Spaniards built these to defend against Ottoman incursions. The purpose of these and other towers in the area was communication. By day, soldiers sent smoke signals, and by night, fire; these signals would be transmitted from tower to tower if invading ships were sighted. Because of its strategic location on the Ionian Sea, the miles of rocky beaches, and crystal clear blue water, the town evolved into the resort community one sees today. Why all this history? History gives flavor to what one sees. When I hike to one of the two 16th-century towers above the town, I always touch the stones that make up the structure. I imagine the soldiers stationed in that tower and wonder what they felt as they gazed at the waters. Fear? Foreboding? Courage? Determination? Step 3: Architecture. Today Santa Caterina is a summer beach resort community. Its architecture isn't that unique, so it is better not to come for that. Come for the sights. Step 4: Sights. Torre dall'Alto Of the two towers in Santa Caterina, this is my favorite to hike up to. It only takes about 10 minutes up the hill to reach the tower, with sweeping views of the Ionian Sea. We find a place to sit and gaze at the sea, the occasional boats and yachts, and the beachgoers near Porto Selvaggio. The stairs up the tower were added later, but in the 16th century, this was a strategic lookout position as the Ottomans sought a foothold in this area. Adjacent to the tower is a nature preserve with trails parallel to the sea. It is an excellent hike that we often do. Town center The town center is merely a series of cafes and tourist shops, but we found our favorite coffee shop next to the small sandy beach (Momento). We come here almost every morning, sipping our coffees and gazing at the sea, boats, and people. It is a perfect way to start the day. Rocky beaches Rocky beaches are not my thing, though my friends love them because they are less populated than the sandy ones. But even I have to admit that the waters off the shores of the rocky beaches here are so clean and pure that they look like a blue emerald. Sometimes we walk down the rocky paths to the edge of the water. My partner keeps threatening me that he will jump in; it hasn't happened yet. Hiking The hills around Santa Caterina are great for hiking, especially in the nature preserve surrounding Torre dall'Alto. But a great sunset walk is between Santa Caterina and Santa Maria del Bagno. Ending the walk with a gelato or Aperol is the reward. Step 5: Cool things. The cool things to do in Santa Caterina, in my experience, include: starting the day at a coffee cafe with a sea view, followed by a hike up to the tower. A pause is necessary here as one sits down and gazes at the surrounding beauty. We stop, sip our waters and enjoy the view. After this, a ramble through the nature preserve, following one of the trails. Santa Caterina pulses with life and music in the evening during the summers. Temporary structures cling to the beach rocks during the summer, serving loud music, food, and drinks. But that's not my thing. I prefer to escape the noise, walk on the sidewalk towards Santa Maria del Bagno, and gaze at the moon reflecting on the waves. Insights: Visitors to Santa Caterina might only see its tourist facade, but below the surface, one can find history and beauty, as well as a sense of community. More next time. My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .

PART 56: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the Summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: Experiences in Italy and Story Writing. I've had the incredible experience of living in Italy twice; the first time was in Rome, while I was a student at a Vatican seminary for eight years. The second time is now, in Puglia for half the year. My background is as an educator (high school social studies), but my side gig is as an author. Most of my books spring from particular circumstances or events while in Italy. It would be interesting to share some of these. Step 2: The seminary. When I reached my 40th birthday, my past seemed like a puzzle, full of pieces I couldn't fit together. At age 19 I moved to Rome and lived in a seminary near the Vatican for much of my eight years there. I then returned to California where I was ordained a priest and worked as an assistant pastor, professor, and national leader. I then left that life behind and eventually started my teaching career. In the middle of all that, I realized that I had let others steer my life rather than taking the driving wheel, that happiness was more than a concept but could be a real possibility, and that I was gay. To understand my life better, I started writing down what happened when I entered the seminary in Rome until the day I left the priesthood. When I showed the manuscript to my sister, she thought it was good enough to be published. So, on a whim, I sent it out to a few publishers, and the 3rd one, Chicago Review Press, signed me on. The result is "That Undeniable Longing: My Road to and from the Priesthood." This book was the first one inspired by my experience living in Italy. Books have been written by those who left the religious life or convent, but often from a victim perspective. But my experience was different. I loved being in the seminary, loved being in Rome, and loved the experience afterward. But it was time to move on. I am grateful for it all. The book has done very well and is well received by those without religious affiliation. It could be because it documents our core human struggles but in different circumstances. Step 3: The two soldiers. I was eating lunch with a friend who lives in Rome; we were sitting outside at a table near the Vatican, chatting about friends from our past, Rome and its history, and other trivial things that now escape me. During this conversation, my friend told me about the history of the 4th-century soldiers/martyrs John and Paul. He didn't say much, but when he recounted the last recorded words that the one said to the other, he planted a seed that eventually blossomed into my first historical novel. These recorded words are: "If we submit to this, we will be together forever in paradise." I wondered how these two men had lived their lives to be able to say these words at the end. I went on a quest to find out. Over eight years, I researched Latin documents, befriended and drew knowledge from the on-site archeologist (the house of John and Paul has been excavated and is near the coliseum), visited numerous mithraic temples in and around Rome, purchased more books for research than I wish to admit and consulted with various professors of ancient history. The result is the well-researched "I am John, I am Paul: A Story of Two Soldiers in Ancient Rome." The story is fascinating; the most incredible thing is that it is true. Above their excavated house lies the church carrying their names, and underneath the altar is a stone sarcophagus where the remains of both men lie together. Their last words came true. Step 4: What makes Rome, Rome? It had been a year since I had written a book when I visited Rome some time ago; I was open to creating something new, but a story had to come to me; I can't just invent it. So I patiently waited, keeping my eyes and ears open. A few days before returning to California, I wandered around Trastevere. I didn't have a goal but eventually ended up in Santa Maria Trastevere, an ancient church whose floor and mosaics ooze history, faith, and culture. I stepped outside into the bright sun, looked across the piazza, and then, like a lightning bolt, the next book came to me. What makes Rome unique? Its stories. No building, street corner, or statue lacks a story behind it that brings that place or thing to life. So I would endeavor to tell some of these stories. The result was "She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome." To create this book, I delved into my own experiences of the city, beginning from when I lived there as a student. I also did much research to describe daily life in ancient Rome accurately. Thirdly, I had to leave my comfort zone to interview street performers, Romans, and expats whose place in Rome is part of its story. I am grateful that this book will now be published in Italian by Alpes Libri. The reviews of this book are overwhelming. Step 5: The dream. This may sound weird, but it's true: the premise and outline of this book came to me in a dream on the last night that I was staying in Rome before my flight back to California. When I returned home, I wrote it down and completed the manuscript in about two weeks. "The Words of my Father" recounts the bedtime stories of Giuseppe to his son Joseph. The framework of the stories is the phrases of the Our Father prayer. Giuseppe takes a word or phrase and uses examples from his own life and other stories to make sense of the prayer for Joseph. On the other hand, the boy keeps begging his father to continue because he doesn't want to go to sleep yet. The book has greatly impacted my interior life. Step 6: Puglia. Friendship led us to Puglia. Several of our friends in Rome, whom I visited often, were from Puglia and owned property there. They invited me to visit a few times over the years until my partner and I accepted. We passed thousands of olive trees as we drove to Salento, the southern part of Puglia. Just as we started to complain about the redundant scenery and make jokes about unending olive groves, our friend called us and, over the speakerphone, revealed the stories behind the olives. After that, a tree was not just a tree anymore. It became a sign of a history linking Puglia to Greek settlements, the Roman Empire and beyond. The olive trees and our friendships were our first step into Puglia, which eventually resulted in my newest book: "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Two cultures (Californian and Puglian) that intermingle can be humorous, frustrating, and enlightening. As we explore the towns and areas of Puglia, we take the reader with us as we sometimes make snap judgments, become aware of a bigger picture, and learn what makes Puglia such a magical place. Historical figures, such as Nicholas of Bari, Pantaleone of Otranto, and Nicholas of Trani, step into the present. I hope this book imparts some of the beautiful experiences we have had in Puglia so far. More next time. My books on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/stores/Mark-Tedesco/author/B00A504PO2?ref=ap_rdr&store_ref=ap_rdr&isDramIntegrated=true&shoppingPortalEnabled=true . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/Mark-Tedesco/e/B00A504PO2?ref=sr_ntt_srch_lnk_2&qid=1691781826&sr=1-2 .

PART 57: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the Summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: From my observations during our time in Puglia, there are two ways that visitors treat local service workers: as an employee or as a person with a job. Let's explore both. Step 2: Treating service workers only as employees Almost every morning, we start our day (after the gym) at our favorite coffee place in front of the Ionian Sea. The site has incredible views, friendly staff, and great food. Apart from the manager, most of the staff are high school kids or young adults. They work long hours and deal with many types of people. This morning we witnessed them being treated as mere employees. A family is visiting the area; several times, they have come to the cafe when we are there. I will not say which country they are from, but the group consists of a matriarch who sometimes boasts about her Ph.D. loudly and her teenage kids who shout at each other across customers' heads. Today the matriarch was complaining about Italy in a not-so-quiet voice, and she kept calling the waitress over to her table with different requests. At one point, this young lady/waitress, a high school student we know by first name, was standing at our table; she was taking our order, and we were chatting for a minute. The matriarch reached over, poked the girl's arm, then shoved a 20 into her hand, saying, "The bill!" Patrons pay at the register at this cafe, but the visitor didn't ask; she demanded to get the bill paid so she could leave. Her actions seemed to reveal a belief that the waitress was a mere employee and her job was to follow orders. I like to think of myself as kinder than the matriarch, but I, too, can treat others forgetfully as I rush through my errands while oblivious to the people I am dealing with. It helps me to remember that service workers are not just employees; they are persons with interesting lives who happen to be working at this job. Step 3: Service workers as persons Having worked in customer service, I have experience of how challenging it can be to deal directly with the public. When I remember what it was like, I can pause and realize that the checkout person at the grocery store is not a cog in the machine but has hopes and dreams and is a person I get to encounter today. Living in Puglia has sharpened this awareness because people here are so amiable! Examples: We went to the grocery store down the street from us soon after we moved here; one of the girls who works at the checkout asked where we were from. "California" is like a magical word, like a fantasy or dream. "I want to go to California!" she said. "Come visit us!" we said. Since that day, we always take a minute to chat and share what we did over the weekend or which is our favorite beach. When we go to our butcher, I always ask how he is doing before asking for anything. His answers vary, but the rapport is more than "How is the chicken today." A few days ago, he shared photos of his friend's house in town, which he had just renovated and is amazing. Our favorite gelato maker often shares his new recipes with us, asking us to taste a unique flavor or granita he came up with. We often find ourselves talking with him about his passion for food and his uncanny natural ability to create gelatos, pastries, and even liquors from an idea. Step 5: Method I don't want to treat others as only an employee, even in a rush. So I had to develop a method to slow down and be in the moment. When dealing with someone in customer service, I try to find the opportunity to ask how their day is going. Something as simple as "Come va?/How is it going?" or "Come sta?/How are you?" or, if I already have a rapport, "How was your weekend?" Asking someone in customer service how their day is going can signal, "Hey, I know you are a complete person, having a tough or great day, and that a job doesn't define you. I appreciate you." It only takes a second to ask, "Come va?" Sometimes the checkout or store worker doesn't respond or responds with a short phrase. Other times they smile and appreciate the question. But their response is not the point. I ask because I want to treat service workers with respect and as real people. Insights: Living in Puglia is increasing my conviction that, in the end, what matters most are relationships. These relationships can begin with the butcher, the baker, and the waiter at my favorite cafe. Locals in Puglia are very interested in our lives as we show interest in theirs. More next time. My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .

PART 58: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the Summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: As we explore towns in Puglia, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. This week, let's explore St. Nicholas in Bari. Step 2: My first impression of Bari was from the train station on our way to Lecce. As we looked out at block after block of ugly apartment buildings, we imagined that the town may not be worth visiting. Our friend stayed overnight in Bari and explored the town one evening. "How was it?" we asked. "The historical center in Lecce is better," was his reply. So we put off a trip to Bari for a while. I spent 25 years as a history teacher, and the stories and tomb of St. Nicholas in Bari kept tugging at me. So, after much delay, we finally jumped in the car and made the 2-hour drive to the center of Bari. I was sure surprised. Step 3: What we saw. We put "Basilica of St. Nicholas in Bari" in Google Maps, which led us along the coast, with rocky beaches and dilapidated buildings on the other. The beaches became more beautiful as we approached the town center, and the buildings grew in elegance. When we neared the Basilica area, we said "Wow!" repeatedly. A beautiful park, seafront baroque buildings, and a gracious promenade welcomed us to a different world than the one next to the railroad tracks. Parking was easy, and we soon stepped into a unique and beautiful historical center. The Bari historical center feels more lived in than Lecce, with winding streets, hanging laundry, excellent shops, and cafes. As we wandered the tourist and residential streets, we were surprised at how cool Bari Central is. We both decided that it is a "not to be missed" part of Puglia, in which the history and culture of the past shine from the architecture and the people. After walking through the old town for about an hour, I was starving, so we stopped at a Salumeria, where I had the best sandwich I had ever eaten. Fresh, crunchy bread, aged prosciutto, creamy mozzarella, and a swirl of fig sauce made me want more. But we were here for a purpose: I wanted to see the tomb of the real St. Nicholas. Step 4: The church. The Basilica of St. Nicholas is relatively easy to find; the town seems to grow out of it. But when we entered the large piazza and looked up, we were overwhelmed with the incredible Romanesque architecture, built with big white blocks of limestone, soaring to the sky. The church was built in the 12th century to house the remains of St. Nicholas. How did St. Nicholas, who died in 343 AD in present-day Turkey, get to Bari? The short story is that sailors from Bari stole his body, but the longer story, which I related in my book (Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy), is much more intriguing. The church's interior is simple, in a restrained Romanesque sort of way, with a Baroque ceiling. Fortunately, in the 20th century, much of the Baroque overlay was removed to return the basilica to its original design; only the ornate ceiling, of a later date, was left in place. I explored the church, which oozes history, from its Byzantine-style columns to its soaring ceiling and the women's galleries overlooking the central nave. I sat down to experience the atmosphere as a participant rather than a tourist at a certain point. I noticed an orthodox priest, bearded with a long robe, praying in one area; a few rows over, I noted two Catholic priests saying their prayers. The church is a pilgrimage destination for both Catholic and Orthodox churches, St. Nicholas being a sign of unity, even today. I liked the sacred atmosphere of the church, and it left me with a sense of peace. We then descended into the tomb below the main altar. I was eager to approach that area where St. Nicholas lay and to touch his spirit somehow. But, once in the tomb area, the touristy atmosphere put me off. Chatting, picture-taking, and general chaos overshadowed the room. We approached the altar and looked for an indication that this was where St. Nicholas' remains lay, but there was no sign or explanation anywhere. But from the artwork on and below the underground altar, we concluded that we were standing in front of the tomb of St. Nicholas. I was a little disappointed as I ascended the stairs to the basilica above. The talking, selfie-taking, and touristy atmosphere contrasted with the sacred silence of the church above. Plus, the lack of any historical explanations posted in the tomb area made me wonder why. When we got back to the basilica, I sat down again to grab onto that sense of peace and history that was easy to feel. After a few minutes, I smiled and realized that the spirit of St. Nicholas was here, on the upper level! Once I lit a candle, we left to continue our adventures. Step 5: Stories and history. When I write about a historical era or person, I want to ensure I have my facts correct, so I do much research before putting anything into words. I decided to focus on the history of St. Nicholas when I wrote the chapter on Bari in my Puglia book because he turned out to be a fascinating man. Separating fact from legend can be challenging when writing historical fiction, and many legends surround Nicholas. But some of the essential points that emerged from my research include: he came from a wealthy family, lost his parents at a relatively young age, and his uncle, a bishop, raised him like a son. Nicholas had incredible empathy for people experiencing poverty and soon gave away his wealth and possessions. He followed in his uncle's footsteps and became an important voice in early Christianity as Christians tried to understand their core beliefs, resulting in what is called today the Nicene Creed. The compassion and empathy of Nicholas speak to me today, and as we left the church that contains his remains, I hoped that I would learn to be a little more attentive to those in need. Insights: Stories can bring a place or person to life; I learned this from my high school students when I taught social studies. St. Nicholas became more real when we visited Bari; his life now has meaning in a way that it didn't before. I am so grateful that we took the time to visit Bari. It is a "must-see". More next time. My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .

PART 59: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the Summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: The riposo, siesta, or afternoon nap in southern Italy is neither an obligation nor a recreational activity. It is an art. Step 2: Some history. The riposo originated with the ancient Romans, not in Spain, as many believe. The Spanish word "siesta" comes from the Latin words "hora sexta," or sixth hour, counting from dawn, hence the midday rest. Midday nap breaks are common around the Mediterranean and many Latin American countries with warm climates and hot afternoons. Before air conditioning, the midday nap (riposo) offered a break from the hottest hours. Step 3: Benefits. Numerous studies show that naps can improve one's mood and physical and mental performance. When I lived in Rome as a student, I began taking long naps in the afternoon, after lunch, with wine. The consequences were that I had trouble sleeping at night and lacked the necessary daylight hours for my studies. It was then that I discovered that the riposo is an art. I eliminated wine from lunch and began taking shorter naps, no more than 30 minutes; brief rests helped me be more alert and refreshed. Studies have also shown that naps that last between 10-20 minutes can improve physical and mental performance and reduce stress. But naps that last longer than 30 minutes might provide different immediate effects; if one enters a deep sleep beyond the 30-minute mark, grogginess or sleep inertia is often the result, which can impair one's performance. So, setting an alarm for 30 minutes or less can help avoid sleep inertia. Again, the riposo is an art. Step 4: The riposo and business hours. A friend spent a few weeks in Italy some years ago, traveling around and seeing the beautiful sites. We all gathered to hear about his trip when he returned to Los Angeles. One companion asked him, "Did you learn any Italian?" The friend answered, "Yes, I learned one word." We looked at one another, perplexed. Then I asked, "what word?" He responded “Chiuso.” “Chiuso” means “closed.” One day, soon after arriving in Puglia, we decided to go to Otranto to see the cathedral floors. The town is about a 45-minute drive; once we arrived, we looked for parking, walked across the city, dodged cafes and tourist shops, and made our way to the cathedral. It was about 12:15 when we arrived. We approached the front door, which was closed. "What the ….????!!!!" I swore as we discovered that the church was locked. We forgot about riposo, which, in this case, began at noon. We belong to a gym in our town. Being from California, we are used to gym hours from 5 a.m. until 11 p.m. We should have paid more attention to the hours posted when we joined the gym that first week since we intended to go every morning. But one day, we had things to do in the morning, so we walked over after lunch and found the gym closed. Another "What the…???!!!" came out of my mouth. We forgot about risposo. Since these events, I have come to appreciate the rhythm of life in southern Italy, including the riposo, and we now consider it when we plan a field trip somewhere. There is something human about the riposo, allowing employees to go home, have lunch, spend time with their families, rest, and then return to complete the work day. Many businesses have abandoned the riposo, and I suspect this trend will continue. Still, it would be a pity if riposo is abandoned because, in a world where value is measured by production, the art of the riposo points to something more important than what can be produced or consumed in the shortest time. The art of the riposo allows one to pause and savor the day, return to the present, refresh oneself, and then continue. Insights: Life in Puglia has many lessons, including the art of the riposo. Rather than seeing the afternoon closing of businesses as an inconvenience, one can experience it as a blessing, in which the day is paused to allow one to feel refreshed and renewed before heading into the evening hours. More next time. My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .

PART 61: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: I have to admit that I am not a foodie (if one defines a foodie as someone who researches the best and most prestigious restaurants online and then goes to experience them). That is not me. But I love good food and a pleasant, friendly atmosphere, so my favorite places to eat out are simple and more hole-in-the-wall establishments. I will share some of mine, and please feel free to share some of yours in the comments. Step 2: Lecce Braceria Toro Nero is an excellent restaurant in the historical center of Lecce, with fresh food, outdoor seating, and friendly staff. A large display of meat draws hungry carnivores, and a varied menu that can appeal to anyone. The dishes are also very reasonably priced. We already have our favorite dishes, and it is our go-to restaurant in Lecce. Antica Pizzeria da Michele needs no introduction since it is the best pizza in Lecce, and everyone who visits the city knows it. Settimo Cielo is an independent (not a chain) gelateria with the freshest and most delicious gelato in Lecce (according to…me). Angelo is the proprietor who works hard day and night. Make sure to say hello to him. Pollicastro Boutique Hotel Bar is in the historical center of Lecce and is unique because the owner handcrafted all the art pieces, chandeliers, and furniture. It is a boutique hotel, but there is a bar with an amiable bartender who welcomes everyone. There are several amazingly furnished rooms to browse or enjoy one's drink. It is another world in the heart of Lecce. Step 3: Nardo' Caffè Parisi is an elegant bar/cafe in the center of Nardo', which is a great place to meet people, grab a coffee, and order one of their incredible pastries. Bar Piazza Salandra is across the piazza from Parisi and is locally owned and family-run. It has an informal and friendly atmosphere; its menu is interesting, including great salads, sandwiches, and vegetarian fare. We like the friendly atmosphere and all the menu choices when we are hungry. Step 4: Otranto. Forno 2m is a great takeaway place for incredible cold and hot food. They also have a bakery; the site is very popular with locals who grab a few wishes and wisk them home for lunch. The staff is helpful, the prices are excellent, and the food is always fresh. It is a local secret that I am sharing here. Step 5: Santa Catarina Momento coffee bar is in front of the Ionian Sea. Is that reason enough to go there? Yes, but there is more. They make excellent coffees and baked goods and recently brought on board a gelato maker, Francesco, who creates homemade gelatos daily. The establishment is also open at night, serving drinks and sandwiches, and it is hopping. But the mornings are calm and beautiful; we start our day every day there. Step 6: Galatina Staglio Forno is a great bakery and pizza place with incredible bread, rolls, and pizza. I have heard that Galatina has some great restaurants, but we are often there on the go, so this place is perfect for us. Insights: Since we are in Salento, most of our eating experiences are in that region, which has shown no lack of variety, freshness, and friendliness. We love locally owned establishments that we can help support and make known. Here in Puglia, food becomes an exercise for the taste buds and a way of forging bonds. More next time. My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .