Surprising Moments on Our Hike in Tuscany

PART 160: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way.

We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life!

We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then return again in the Spring, and spend the rest of the time in California (as I explained in a previous blog, we only live in Italy part of the year).

Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. 

This week, I will share our adventure as we hiked to the Vitaleta Chapel in the Val d'Orcia in Tuscany.

Step 2: Iconic

One of the most iconic places in Tuscany is the Vitaleta Chapel, perched atop the rolling hills of the region. I had seen it on postcards, in paintings, and in photographs, but experiencing it in person felt like stepping into another world.

During our first visit to Tuscany several years ago, we stumbled upon the chapel by chance. We had left the main street and were exploring small dirt and gravel roads without any particular agenda, eager to discover what lay ahead. Then, in the distance, we spotted it.

"Very cool! Let's go see it!" my partner exclaimed. We turned around and made our way toward the picturesque sight of cypress trees surrounding the old stone chapel.

On the day we visited, there were no other tourists around; the chapel was closed, and the adjacent building's restaurant was not yet open.

We parked the car, took a short walk, and stood on the hill next to the chapel.

And then we listened.

Looking around, we found ourselves surrounded by golden rolling wheat fields swaying gently in the breeze. It felt like a sacred moment, a beauty so overwhelming that we dared not disturb it with words.

"This is so beautiful it's almost ridiculous," I finally said, breaking the silence. "It's like we've stepped into another universe," my partner added.

I had seen photos of Tuscany before and often wondered what the hype was about. But now, standing in that place, I understood.

Step 3: An unexpected encounter

Yesterday, we decided to return to the Vitaleta Chapel, but instead of just parking nearby, I wanted to go for a hike. As soon as we spotted the chapel in the distance, we pulled over near a few cars parked by what seemed to be a trailhead.

The hike looked to be about 45 minutes long. There was a weathered sign indicating an agriturismo nearby, although we didn't pay much attention to it.

We started down the cypress-lined gravel road, encountered a few tourists taking photos, and took some pictures of our own. We continued on, going down and then up toward the Vitaleta Chapel in the distance.

At one point, we lost the path and found ourselves on the grounds of the agriturismo we had seen earlier.

(For those unfamiliar, an agriturismo is an independently owned farm that the owners have chosen to use, at least partially, for accommodation purposes.)

We stood in front of a beautiful rustic brick and stone house with stunning views across the hills, with the Vitaleta Chapel visible in the distance. "Wouldn't it be amazing to stay here, watching the sun rise and set over these hills and seeing the stars appear above the chapel?" I blurted out.

Before my partner could respond, we turned to see an older woman coming down the stairs, looking down at us. "Buon Giorno!" she greeted us warmly. "Give me a minute, and I will be right down!" she said.

We introduced ourselves and mentioned where we were headed. She kindly showed us where the path continued around the agriturismo and then onward toward the chapel. Before we left, she shared her story with us.

https://www.agriturismopoderino.it/

Step 4: The family and the Agriturismo Poderino

There was a profound connection between us and the owner of Poderino as we inquired about her history, family, and business. At one point, she was in tears as she shared the tragic stories of losing both her husband and one of her children. It might be best for me to convey her thoughts in her own words:

"We have been running this farm for over 40 years, and my husband and I started the agriturismo together. After he passed away, my son took on many of the responsibilities, but then he unexpectedly passed away as well. This is a beautiful location, and we love it here, but now it's just me. My daughters have gone off to college and started families of their own. In this area, I have been unable to find anyone to hire to help me, not even on a part-time basis. My greatest fear is that this agriturismo will end up abandoned. We produce oil and other farm products, but there really isn't enough money in agriculture to sustain us, so we rely on agriturismo. It is truly a beautiful place, and I hope that you will return."

Our 15 minutes together were filled with emotion, and we continue to carry her hopes and dreams with us.

This is the link to this incredible agriturismo: https://www.agriturismopoderino.it/

Step 5: The hike onward

We left the agriturismo and hiked toward the chapel, traversing fields, crossing a small creek, and ascending toward our destination. The hike was a bit more strenuous than I had anticipated, and my knee was sore the next day, but it was definitely worth it.

The Vitaleta Chapel area has undergone changes since our last visit: the chapel is now often open to visitors and is frequently used for weddings. The previously closed beautiful buildings now house a modern café run by a group of young people, serving sandwiches. On the upper floor, an exclusive gourmet restaurant with just six tables is located, open by reservation only.

The area has become increasingly well-known and is often filled with visitors. When we arrived, it seemed that a wedding had just taken place, as well-dressed guests were lingering and taking photos.

I stepped into the chapel, which had a plain and somewhat disappointing interior. Afterward, we bought a €5 soda at the café and sat facing the rolling hills of Val d'Orcia.

It truly is a fantastic place.

Step 6: Our return

We embarked on the rocky path leading back to our car, taking care to pace ourselves as the ups and downs of the hike left me feeling winded. Before long, we arrived at our car and paused to gaze back at the agriturismo, surrounded by the cypress trees near the Vitaleta Chapel.

"That was an amazing and unique experience," my partner remarked.

More next time.

My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE

Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL.