Driving Through Tuscany Without a Goal

PART 155: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way.

We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life!

We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then return again in the Spring, and spend the rest of the time in California (as I explained in a previous blog, we only live in Italy for part of the year).

Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. 

This week, let's explore some of the discoveries we've made in Tuscany by following our instincts.

Step 2: Planning and Spontaneity

Although I like to think of myself as a free spirit and a spontaneous person, I have to admit that I am more of a planner. At the beginning of each day, I prefer to have a clear plan for what I want to accomplish.

My partner, on the other hand, is the more spontaneous type. When he suggests an impromptu activity, he often says, "I know you're going to say no at first, but please just think about this…"

When it comes to exploring Tuscany, we sometimes plan our activities, but other times we embrace spontaneity.

Let's focus on the spontaneous side of our adventures.

Step 3: Dirt roads

"I've never seen a dirt road that I wouldn't turn onto," my partner often says. Another one of his expressions is, "I would never pass up a road that says 'private road'; it means there's something good to see." Sometimes I've clutched the seat in fear as we ventured down those roads, but I have to admit we have encountered some incredible sights.

Step 4: The first time

You can't truly experience Tuscany without a car; that's just a fact. When we visited the region for the first time a few years ago, we rented a car in Rome and drove north.

I had done some research and had a list of the main towns and sights to see. However, on the second day, my partner, true to form, suggested, "Let's just drive and see where we end up." I reluctantly agreed.

We started on the main roads for a while, but then he spotted a dirt and gravel road off to the right. He swerved onto it, and we bumped along the rural path through the Tuscan hills. After a few minutes, we encountered no cars or people (it was summer), and we continued on until we reached the top of a hill.

We parked the car on the side of the road, got out, and walked across the fields to the summit. Turning in a circle, we took in the breathtaking view: swaying golden fields, cypress trees, and distant farmhouses.

"Listen!" I said. The breeze flowing through the fields created a calming, almost magical sound that I can't quite describe. It felt as if we were inside a grand church or cathedral; we looked around but didn't want to speak. After a few moments, my partner remarked, "Now I see why so many people want to come to Tuscany! Photographs don't do it justice."

He was right. We were isolated on that road, enveloped by the beauty of Tuscany, experiencing what makes this place unique in the world.

Step 5: Discovering towns

Sometimes these dirt roads lead us to towns, while other times we stay on the paved road, see a cool town on a hilltop, and drive over to investigate. Some of the towns we have discovered are:

Step 6: Montemerano

We had never been to the thermal spas at Saturnia, so we decided to drive there after our morning coffee. It was a spur-of-the-moment decision, and we didn't know where the famous thermal spas were or if the town was worth visiting.

We found a parking spot in the historical part of Saturnia and started to follow a path down towards the spas, but it looked like a long way. "Is this the way to the thermal waters?" we asked an Italian couple walking on the same path. "Yes, you can walk down this path; it is about a 45-minute walk, and then you have to come back up again. It's better if you drive; there is a big parking lot there."

That seemed reasonable. I then asked, "Is the town of Saturnia worth exploring?" The kind woman shrugged her shoulders. "There is nothing very special about the town of Saturnia; if you want to see an incredibly charming place, go to Montemerano. It is very close by, and you won't regret it."

We thanked them, jumped in our car, and drove down to the thermal spas.

When we arrived at the parking lot, it was packed. Cars circled like vultures, waiting for someone to pull out. While my partner hunted for a space, I got out to pay for a few hours of parking. At the machine, a small group ahead of me was struggling to figure it out. When they finally moved on, I stepped up and tried my luck—but even after feeding in my coins three times, the screen flashed the same message: payment rejected. The rate was 2.50 euros an hour, and I had enough coins to cover it, but the machine refused every one.

Frustrated, I walked back to the car. "Do you want to just go to the town that couple mentioned instead?" I asked.

I hopped in, and we were on our way to Montemerano.

After we parked and walked through the stone entrance, it felt like we had stepped onto a movie set. We were surrounded by breathtaking views, charming stone buildings, and cobblestone streets. It reminded us of Montichiello but without the crowds of tourists.

We visited the Church of San Giorgio, a 14th-century parish church located in the village. Restored in 1980, it features remarkable artworks, including Sano di Pietro's "Madonna on a Throne with Child and Saints" and the intriguing "Madonna della Gattaiola," attributed to the anonymous Maestro di Montemerano.

The village dates back to the Middle Ages. It was originally owned by the Aldobrandeschi family in the 13th century, then passed to the Baschi family from Orvieto in the 14th century, before being conquered by the Republic of Siena in the 15th century.

We had an amazing time and stopped to eat at an outdoor restaurant, where we enjoyed fantastic tagliatelle with ragù.

Step 7: Montefollonico

We decided to visit Montepulciano one day since we had only been there once and wanted to explore the town more thoroughly. However, we didn't realize that a festival was taking place that day, and we soon found ourselves stuck in a massive traffic jam, surrounded by people searching for parking.

Although it was only 10 in the morning, we realized we would never find parking and made it our goal to escape the overcrowded town. We ignored Google Maps, which kept trying to direct us back into traffic, and headed toward San Quirico. Once we got out of the traffic in Montepulciano, we discovered an incredible country road with sweeping vistas of farms, vineyards, and rolling hills. At one point, we spotted an interesting historical church on a hill, surrounded by a charming stone village.

"Let's go see what it is," I suggested.

We drove along the road, turned right, and parked our car. By chance, we had found Montefollonico.

Monetfollonico is a peaceful village that remains largely undiscovered by tourists. Its ancient walls encompass charming examples of beautiful architecture, including the Romanesque Church of San Leonardo and the 12th-century Church of San Bartolomeo, which is possibly the oldest in the region. The Palace of Justice and the entire village are also worth a visit. As you wander through this town, you'll be inspired by its medieval character, stunning views, and the absence of large tourist crowds.

We promised ourselves that we would return.

Step 8: Sant'Angelo in Colle (Hamlet of Montalcino)

We had passed through this town multiple times on our way to Montalcino, and each time, we agreed we needed to learn more about it. So, two days ago, we decided to jump in the car and drive over.

Sant'Angelo in Colle is a stunning medieval village located in the Val d'Orcia Natural Park, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. At an elevation of 450 meters above sea level, it offers breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape and Mount Amiata.

The village began as a border castle for the Municipality of Siena in 1265. It has retained its original layout, featuring circular streets. At the center of the village is the Romanesque Church of San Michele Arcangelo, which boasts impressive entrances and several old frescoes from the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. The large tower at the entrance once served as a military fortress.

We parked at the bottom of the hill and walked along Via del Sole to Piazza Castello, taking in the sights along the way. We enjoyed a delightful lunch at Trattoria Il Pozzo, where the service was excellent, the food was fantastic, and the views of the piazza were incredible.

Step 9: Castello di Poggio alle Mura (Banfi Castle)

As we drove home from Sant'Angelo in Colle, we spotted a stunning castle rising from a hill amidst the vineyards of the Banfi wine company. Intrigued, we turned around and headed toward the fairytale-like building.

Located in the beautiful Montalcino region, just 16 kilometers from the center of Montalcino, Castle Poggio alle Mura, or Castello Banfi, was built in 1438 on a hill overlooking the Orcia and Ombrone rivers. Although there are no records confirming its origins, it is believed to have originally been the site of a Lombard watchtower, with its first fortified structure dating back before the year 1000.

Today, the castle houses a luxury hotel, restaurants, and a wine shop. It is renowned for its impressive wine cellars and high-quality wines that reflect its medieval charm and rich winemaking tradition.

We chose not to participate in a wine tasting or have lunch, instead opting to explore the grounds and soak in the stunning views, promising to return. Although there is a glass museum on-site, we found that no tickets were being sold that day. Unexpectedly, while other places were crowded that Sunday, the castle grounds were mostly empty.

Visiting this castle is definitely worth it.

Insights:

Exploring Tuscany aimlessly opens one up to new experiences and discoveries. We will continue to take gravel roads and, occasionally, the "private" streets!

More next time.

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