PART 113: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we are discovering some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's explore our priorities and criteria for searching for a home in Italy. Step 2: After a thorough search with some unexpected twists and turns, we found our home in Italy. As we explored different areas, towns, and geographical positions in the country, we came to the realization that no location or home was perfect. We understood that we needed to prioritize and decide what aspects were most important to us and which ones were less so. Maybe sharing the criteria we used to find our place could help others. Step 3: Needs and Wants When we were looking for a place to live in Italy, we had trouble finding one that met all of our needs and wants. Everything we were looking for seemed important, so we were reluctant to make any compromises. As we continued our search, we began to realize that it would be helpful to differentiate between what we absolutely needed and what would just be a nice bonus. Here are some of our findings. Step 4: Must haves We had a set budget to stick to, considering our retirement savings. It was crucial for us to find a property within our budget. We were looking for a place with at least two bathrooms or one big enough to add a second bathroom. We were keen on finding a home with historical character to make our life in Italy unique compared to California. Proximity to essential services such as gyms, supermarkets, and other amenities was important for us. We were particularly interested in living close to historical and cultural areas, which led us to focus our search in the northern parts of Italy. Since we planned to use our Italian home as a base for traveling around Europe, we prioritized finding a location with easy access to other European countries and nearby airports. We were also conscious of the overall mentality and openness towards diversity in the area, especially as a gay couple. We preferred a lively town with a vibrant community over a quiet village with limited social activities and a dwindling population. Living in town was a priority for us as we wanted to immerse ourselves in the local community and establish connections with our neighbors. We also wanted to be able to walk to cafes and restaurants. Lastly, we wanted a location with easy access to and from Rome, as it's the city we frequently visit and use as a hub for our travels. Step 5: "Mandatory" requirements that turned into "nice to have": Our criteria changed, and what started as essential sometimes became optional. Some of the criteria that are "nice to have but not essential" include: Having a train station in town: We realized that we would limit our options if we only looked at towns with train stations. Since we are comfortable with driving and renting a car in Italy, this wasn't a major factor for us. Street life: One of the main reasons I wanted to live in Italy was the vibrant street life I experienced in Rome. However, we discovered that only the larger towns or cities have the kind of street life I was looking for, and most of these places are outside of our budget. We believe that building local friendships will help fulfill this aspect of Italian life. Roof terrace or yard: Both of us enjoy entertaining, but we found that many homes in the historical centers of the Tuscany area we were considering lack outdoor space. While having outdoor entertainment space would be wonderful, we decided to treat this as a "nice to have" in order to achieve our goal of finding a place in or near the historical center. Step 6: What we found. I never thought that we could afford to live in Tuscany, so I never investigated the area from that point of view until our local friends in Puglia urged us to go there and look at the Monte Amiata, as well as other areas. We found housing that fit our budget. When we zeroed in on a house, we found a two-bedroom/one-bathroom place in the historical center of Arcidosso. Before we made an offer, our realtor did the footwork to find out if a 2nd bathroom could be built; the answer was affirmative. Since Arcidosso is a fully functioning town, with friendly neighbors and residents, we soon developed a sense of belonging. With no train station, we would need to rely on our car, but we could also drive to Grosseto, 45 minutes away, to access a major train hub. We don't have a terrace or yard, but we do have a 16th-century house with wood beam ceiling and terrazzo floors in the beautiful medieval center of Arcidosso, which is full of symbols of the Knights Templar and hints at a fascinating history near the Via Francigena pilgrim route. We had our second bathroom built and upgraded the house to American standards (new kitchen, new windows, washer/dryer, cozy living room) and now have a place in Tuscany that we can actually call home. It seems unreal, but it is true. Insights: Deciding what is essential and what is optional when searching for a house in Italy is a necessary step for a dream to become a reality. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 123: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. Let's stay close to home this week and concentrate on renovating our house. What happened when we needed bathroom and kitchen tiles to match the house's design? We went chasing after tiles. Step 2: The kitchen floor mystery We have standard brown tiles in our kitchen, which are commonly found in many older Italian homes. The tiles are simple and the color complements the wood tones in the room, so we thought they would work fine. When we started installing a new kitchen and removed the old one, we discovered the original terrazzo flooring underneath the brown tile. We were surprised to find out that it had been tiled over. Initially, we considered stopping the work to reveal the original floor. However, upon closer inspection, we noticed missing sections and the design of the original flooring was not to our liking. So we moved forward. After two days, the new kitchen was installed. We wondered if we could change the flooring sometime in the future if we felt like tackling that project. We consulted with our contractor, who assured us that he could tile over the existing floor, resulting in three layers of flooring. However, the increased height would cause problems with the fireplace drawer and the threshold in the adjoining entry. We could a lso take out the present floor to the level of the original terrazzo. Ultimately , we decided that we were already overwhelmed with the renovation process and that the current flooring was fine. Sometimes, it's best to avoid getting carried away with renovating a historic house. Step 3: The kitchen backsplash A domino effect can take place when renovating a historic house. At first, we had two projects: create a new bathroom and transform a bathtub into a shower in the main bathroom. Simple enough. But as the work progressed and we began living in that space, we discovered other areas of the house to renovate, starting with the kitchen. The domino effect began when we decided to swap out the existing kitchen for a new forest green one, which worked well with the wood-beamed ceiling but not the existing tile backsplash. We had to rip out the tile backsplash and find something that matched the room's new color scheme. We were new to Tuscany, so we were unsure where to go. We started at the local home improvement store in our town, but we didn't find any tile that would work for the kitchen. Step 4: The Search We drove to Grosseto, the nearest city with an industrial center, and visited several bathroom specialty shops and tile stores. We ended up in an exclusive store that sold high-end shower stalls, vanities, sinks, and faucets. As we were about to leave, my partner spotted their tile display on the back wall. Although their tile would exceed our budget for covering a large area, it was affordable for a backsplash. We devised a design on the spot, ordered the tile, and picked it up 10 days later. Having green as the main color shade in our kitchen was unexpected, but we are happy with the result. The point of this story is that we learned that investing in high-end tile for a visible area like a kitchen backsplash can be worth it and may not break the budget at all if it is a smaller area. Step 5: The new bathroom We needed to select materials for our new bathroom while we were in California. Luckily, we have a reliable and honest contractor who made some choices for us, which would be confirmed once we returned to Tuscany. Once we returned to Tuscany, we went to our local builder’s supply and, with our contractor’s help, found some great modern tiles that would fit well with the sleek design of the new bathroom. He had projected a budget which allowed for some choices, so we were glad when we found a great tile design at a local business. That was one of the easiest decisions we made during the renovation. Step 6: Renovating the old (main) bathroom We needed to make some decisions regarding our main bathroom, which is covered in 1980s-style solid white tiles from floor to ceiling. The bathroom also has an old-fashioned embedded mirror above the vanity surrounded by a swirly design tile frame. The floor is covered with plain brown tiles similar to those used in the kitchen. We considered the following options and questions: 1. Remove all the existing tiles and start over. 2. Keep the existing tiles and find new ones that harmonize with the existing ones. 3. What type of tile to use for the new shower? 4. What do we do with the off-center embedded mirror once we replace the vanity? After careful consideration, we decided to keep the existing tile in the bathroom and give it an updated look by tiling the shower with materials that would harmonize with the existing tiles. Additionally, we planned to update the lighting, mirror, toilet, and vanity. For the off-center embedded mirror, we stumbled across a solution. During our visit to Tecnomat, a store similar to Home Depot or Lowe's, we found some great white tiles for the new shower that matched the subway-style tiles in the same bathroom. We also discovered an illuminated mirror large enough to cover the embedded wall mirror and swirly tile design above the old vanity and long enough to center it above the new vanity. Looking back, we realized it would have been better to visit Tecnomat at the beginning of our renovation to see what they offered before spending so much time in specialty shops. Tecnomat has a huge selection of tile as well as other materials and specialty items that can be ordered. Step 7: When to leave well enough alone Renovating a historical property is a learning process. It's important to decide what to change and what to leave as it is. We don't need to do everything at once, and we may choose not to change some things at all. By holding back and letting the house reveal what our priorities are, we can experience life in our new home in Tuscany without undoing any work that we did. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 129: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's stay closer to home and share how we find supplies in Italy (Tuscany) for our home renovation. Step 2: When we purchased our house in the historical center of Arcidosso, Tuscany, we anticipated some renovation work ahead. We knew we needed to create a second bathroom and replace the bathtub with a shower. However, as we progressed through our renovation journey, our list of tasks expanded. In addition to our initial plans, we realized the main bathroom would require moving the toilet, removing the bidet, and installing new fixtures, including a vanity, sink, and toilet. We also identified a need for more storage space. The kitchen would have to be demolished entirely and replaced with a new one, and all the lighting throughout the house needed to be updated. Furthermore, the main room, currently used as a dining room, needed to be converted into a living room. We also planned to modify the heating system and replace the windows with double-paned glass. Step 3: Finding supplies while in California Since we wanted to start the renovation when we returned to Italy, we asked our excellent contractor to source the supplies for both bathrooms while we were away. He immediately set to work and developed a great plan, utilizing materials from our local builder's store to create the showers, vanities, new toilets, electric towel racks, and more. Step 4: Living in a space and changing one's mind Living in the space about to be renovated has revealed several issues we hadn't anticipated. One was the need for additional bathroom storage. Another was the layout of the main bathroom, which could be improved. The kitchen's functionality was a third concern. We asked our contractor if we could change a few of the materials we had initially chosen, and he agreed to the modifications. Step 5: What we needed. We started our renovation journey by visiting our local builder's supply store. We explored their selection of tiles, shower displays, bathroom vanities, faucets, and paints there. All of their products were of excellent quality, but since it is a medium-sized store, many materials would need to be ordered. With the renovation start date about a week away, we had little time to research. We quickly realized that a pedestal sink wouldn't work in the new bathroom due to our need for storage, so we needed to find a different option. We discovered some gray modern tiles within our budget at the local builder's supply store, which would be perfect for the new bathroom, including the shower and floors. However, since the main bathroom was already tiled in white and we didn't plan to rip it out, we decided the gray tiles wouldn't work its shower. Therefore, we needed to find tiles matching the room's style. Additionally, we had to find lighting that would balance modernity and Tuscany to complement the house's overall theme. Lastly, we needed to search for a new kitchen (more on that in a separate blog). Step 6: Specialty shops We initially looked at bathroom vanities at our local builder's supply store. The quality was excellent, but the sizes were too large for our space. Next, we visited a mid-sized builder's store in Grosseto; unfortunately, the quality was low. We then explored several high-end specialty stores throughout Tuscany, but the prices exceeded our budget. Our challenge was finding quality vanities that fit our limited space while providing maximum storage under the sinks in both bathrooms. We continued our search for the right vanities. We noticed a tile section at the back during our visit to one of the expensive specialty stores. We decided to look since we needed to tile the backsplash in the new kitchen and shower in the main bathroom. This store offered some very cool tile options for the kitchen, and after taking measurements and calculating costs, we ordered the backsplash tile. However, they didn't have anything matching the existing tile in the main bathroom. We still needed to keep looking for tiles. Step 7: Big box stores During our time in Puglia, we discovered that Technomat is Italy's equivalent to Home Depot. Even though it was a two-hour drive from our house, we decided to make the trip two days before we needed the shower tile to see what we could find. Walking through the aisles of Technomat felt warmly familiar. Shelves filled with home renovation products, tools, garden supplies, paint, and anything else a homeowner might need. We headed to the tile section and spoke with an attendant about our requirements. Within five minutes, we found the perfect white tile that had a modern touch yet complemented the more traditional white tile already on the walls of the main bathroom. It was an easy decision—we bought it. As we continued to explore the store, we came across a fantastic lighted bathroom mirror. We also checked out various bathroom sinks and vanities, but unfortunately, none matched the size or style we were looking for. We still needed to find our bathroom vanities, and the deadline was approaching. My partner suggested, "Why don't we visit Ikea since it's nearby to get some ideas?" Since we were just five minutes away, we jumped in the car and navigated through the model rooms until we reached the bathroom displays. There, we discovered some excellent ideas for bathroom vanities and storage solutions. Even if one doesn't end up buying from Ikea, their room designs are great for brainstorming. In fact, we clarified our design ideas for increasing storage in both bathrooms based on what we saw in the model rooms. That same day, we visited a few more stores and found the perfect vanity and sink combination for both bathrooms. Step 8: Amazon I prefer not to go to Amazon as my first choice since I like to support local businesses. However, Amazon can fill the gap when I can't find what I need elsewhere. Recently, we set out to find lighting fixtures in a modern Tuscan-industrial style. Additionally, we wanted an electric towel rack for the main bathroom that could also heat the entire room. We searched both boutique and big-box stores for these items. The lighting fixtures we found were either extremely modern or very old-fashioned. As for the towel rack, we couldn't find any that combined a small space heater with the towel rack feature, so we decided to turn to Amazon. We ordered the lighting fixtures and a great towel rack from the site. However, two ceiling-mounted lighting fixtures we bought didn't work because our wood beam ceiling was uneven. Since I wasn't sure how to return items on Amazon while in Italy, I asked our local friends and searched the Amazon website for guidance. We discovered we could package the items and take them to our local post office. We returned several items, to the point where the postal workers started recognizing us as the "Californiani" every time we walked in. We managed to avoid the long lines by going during riposo hours. Ultimately, we found the remaining items we needed on Amazon and were ready to proceed with our project. Step 9: How it is coming together A few days before we left to return to California, our contractor completed the renovations in both bathrooms, installed the new kitchen, added new lighting fixtures, and cleared all the debris. After we departed for California, he installed the double-paned glass windows and made a few final touches. When we returned to our Tuscan house a few months later, we were amazed at how it turned out. The blend of Tuscan charm and modern conveniences was simply stunning. Insights: The initial step in establishing our life in Italy was our choice to learn as we go rather than plan every detail in advance. This approach guides us through our renovation process as we explore blending modern and traditional elements in our Tuscan home. We are discovering where to source materials and trusting everything will fall into place. It's all part of the adventure. More next time. SECOND EDITION NOW ON SALE FOR $2.99! "She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome." https://a.co/d/4Bx0Eh3 . Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 92. It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Let's explore our experience (so far) of renovating our house in Tuscany. Step 1: We hadn't planned on buying a house in Italy, let alone renovating one. But at the beginning of this adventure, we decided that life is short and that we would plunge in and figure out the logistics of living in Italy along the way. In a past blog, we explored how we moved from renting to buying a place in Italy. So we bought a place and took possession just a few months ago. But it needed renovation, which included creating a second bathroom, completely redoing the present bathroom, upgrading the hot water system, replacing the kitchen, installing heating, painting the interior, and taking care of the leaking roof. Now that we have completed about 85% of the work let's explore how it is going. Step 2: Budget and ballpark figures The first stage of any renovation is deciding whether I can afford it. Knowing that the budget can change along the way, especially when renovating a centuries-old house, we knew that the budget would be more ballpark than rigid, so we decided on how much we could ultimately afford. The second stage was to gather information. We first spoke with our fantastic realtor (Remax in Abbadia San Salvatore) to ask if creating a second bathroom from nothing would be possible. Since he has a designer on on staff who knows local codes and permits, he asked her to take the measurements, create a blueprint of a complete bathroom within the second bedroom, and verify if it could conform to the codes. She did, and it was. The third stage was to find a contractor, whom we found through our realtor friends in our area. We met with him on Zoom from California, described the project, and he gave us a figure for all the work, with the assurance that an estimate in writing would be forthcoming. He followed through, and we knew we could move forward. Step 3: Living in the renovation and past experience Experience is the best teacher, and we lived in our house in Palm Springs while renovating it some years ago. We had already experienced breathing in dust all day, having a bathroom pulled apart, and having a non-functioning kitchen. It's tough to live in a house being renovated, but our budget didn't permit us to pay for a hotel for three months in Italy, and we knew we needed to be on-site as issues arose. There were moments in Tuscany when the work and living situation became overwhelming, such as showering at the gym, only having heating in one room, breathing dust, having a non-functioning kitchen for a while, etc., but recalling that we had done this before in the US gave us some strength and insight to keep focused on the light at the end of the tunnel. Step 4: Going the extra mile So many things function in Italy through relationships. We learned this during our two years in Puglia and experienced the same dynamic in Tuscany. We didn't know anyone in the area where we bought our house, but our realtor turned out to be not only the professional who accompanied us every step of the way but also our friend. He introduced us to his friends and colleagues, and soon, we began a network that felt like home. "Where will we find a contractor for the work?" we asked our realtor/friend. "Don't worry; I will take care of that." In fact, our realtor took care of many issues that showed his willingness to go the extra mile. From setting up our energy and water bills to finding an architect to locating an honest and professional contractor, he did it all. Our contractor dove into the project the week after we took possession of the house. Step 5: Why one must be present There were times during the renovation when I said, "Can't we just go back to California and let them do the work while we're not here?" But this was more about whining than a decision. Why? Why must one be present during the renovation of a historical home? The simple answer is: because of the unexpected. As our house dates back to the 15th or 16th century (depending on who you talk to), we encountered numerous issues as we opened up walls, installed plumbing, and dismantled the kitchen. These challenges required us to make quick decisions, such as determining how to route hot water to the new bathroom, addressing a wire running across a pipe inside the wall, and choosing a suitable vanity to fit into a narrow space. We often had to rush to Technomat (an Italian Home Depot) or our local builder's supply for information or materials. I suppose someone can just commission a contractor to renovate a historical home without being present, but one would probably end up redoing some of the work. Due to unexpected discoveries during the renovation of a historical building, it is essential to be present to make on-the-spot decisions based on new findings. There is no way around it. Step 6: Changing decisions When we began renovating our house in Tuscany, we had everything planned out: materials chosen, tile decided, and the scope of work locked down. But as we moved forward, we started changing our decisions. It started when we decided that the bathroom pedestal sink we had chosen wouldn't be practical because we needed storage. We then looked at the vanity in the other bathroom and decided against keeping it. Then, the position of the toilet needed to be changed. Then, we decided to remove the bidet from the existing bathroom to create more space. Finally, although the kitchen initially looked charming and historical, it turned out to be impractical for our needs, so we decided it would have to go. Living in a space can reveal the changes that need to be made to make it more livable, and this is what happened during our renovation in Tuscany. As issues became apparent, we spoke with our contractor, expanded the work, and braced for the outcome. He always reassured us that he could do the job and that he would control our costs. He was correct on both counts. Step 7: Hardships and rewards Living through a renovation project is tough, especially in a foreign country. The most challenging aspects included trying to maintain a daily routine, having three meals a day, not obsessing over house issues 24/7, staying warm, and functioning without a shower. However, the rewards of the renovation project have been significant. We've witnessed the transformation of the house taking place around us, had the freedom to make design decisions as issues arose, and have been able to create a home that we feel comfortable in. Now that the house renovation is almost complete, the rewards definitely outweigh the challenges. Step 8: Would we do it again? "What do you think if we would do this again sometime? Perhaps sell this place someday and do a bigger project," my partner asked towards the end of our last stay. My first reaction was, "No F—-ing way!" But then I thought about everything we learned and how we could build on our knowledge and experience if we renovated a house in Tuscany again. Now my answer is…"well….maybe…" Step 9: Youtube it? My partner has been capturing a lot of footage throughout the entire renovation process. He wants to create a Youtube series documenting our experience. The series will start with our dream of living in Italy, then move on to our time in Puglia, our decision to move to Tuscany, and finally the purchase and renovation of our house. Creating a YouTube series is a significant undertaking, but I've assured him that I will support him and even help write some scripts if he wants to pursue it. We will see. Insights: Main elements Renovating a house in Italy involves multiple aspects, including budgeting, living through the renovation, building local relationships, facing challenges, and reaping rewards. It is also important to reflect on whether we would undertake this endeavor again. I hope others will realize that this adventure is entirely achievable, that life is short, and that learning throughout the process is an integral part of the journey. More next time. SECOND EDITION NOW ON SALE FOR $2.99!  “She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome.” https://a.co/d/4Bx0Eh3 .  Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 126: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. Let's keep it close to home this week. Please accompany us on our house search in Tuscany, where we encounter lots of…shall we call them "Granny Houses"? Step 2: I hope this week's blog doesn't come across as the rant of an ugly American. In fact, it's written with a bit of tongue-in-cheek humor and I do not intend any disrespect. It is a humorous attempt to highlight differences . So let's get straight to the point: Why do so many houses for sale in Italy look like they belong to Grandma? I mean, doilies on the tables and lace drapes hanging in front of the windows? Not to mention the oversized sofas and chairs cramming small rooms, and the main room, which serves as both a living and dining space, dominated by a massive dining table with a sofa pushed against one wall and an ancient TV sitting on an old table across the room. Now, let's examine the bedrooms in some of these houses. Huge wooden-framed beds take up most of the space, accompanied by large side tables, old-fashioned lamps that resemble vases, and bedspreads that seem to have been handed down for generations. And what about the lighting fixtures? Should I continue? (This "rant" is tongue in cheek, for humor's sake. No disrespect.) Step 3: I may be being a bit harsh, but many homes advertised on real estate websites—whether in Tuscany, Puglia, or other regions—often share a similar appearance. Their common features can be summarized as an inefficient use of space combined with a design style reminiscent of a grandmother's taste. Step 4: Why? I am not sure why many real estate companies don't update the decor or remove some of the clutter before taking photos or showing the houses, especially in our price range. I'm not judging how the real estate market operates in Italy compared to California; I just want to highlight the differences with a bit of humor . And I can't help but chuckle at the doilies. Step 5: Modernizing the space Fortunately, the place we bought in Tuscany did not have Granny's decor, and we are grateful to the former owners! Through our renovation process, we are learning how to modernize a traditional space while preserving its unique historical features. Step 6: The living/dining room (soggiorno) Many traditional houses we viewed in Italy have a soggiorno, essentially a combination of the kitchen, dining area, and living room. Typically, the dining room table dominates the space, with the kitchen set against one wall and a sofa pushed against another. This layout gives the room a dated appearance, and we wanted the most important room in the house to feel modern and inviting. We decided to transform the soggiorno primarily into a living room to achieve this. Since the house came unfurnished, we had the freedom to work with the room's dimensions from the start. We installed a smaller, more modern kitchen against one wall. We opted for a midcentury modern vibe for the furniture and appliances and added a carpet to differentiate the living room area from the kitchen. After searching extensively, we found a collapsible dining table that could fit snugly against the wall. We plan to stain it the same shade as the exposed beam ceiling. We also updated the lighting and furnished the room with a small, comfortable sofa and a side chair. The room features a large fireplace, but neither of us wanted to carry logs up and down the path. However, we were reluctant to give up the warmth and ambiance of a fire. Ultimately, we found an electric log unit that provides both a flame effect and heat when needed. Once everything was finished, we stepped back and were amazed by how the room beautifully combined Tuscan charm with a modern feel. Step 7: Bedrooms Since our bedrooms already had a strong Tuscan feel, featuring wood beam ceilings and white plaster walls, we replaced the lighting fixtures with new ones with an industrial look, paired with Edison light bulbs. Thankfully, there were no doilies in sight. We also added modern wooden furniture, including dressers and nightstands, and selected a comforter reminiscent of the Swiss Alps. We chose room-sized jute rugs for the bedroom floors that give the space a warm and contemporary atmosphere. Step 8: Bathrooms Italy is the center of sleek and modern kitchen and bathroom designs, so we opted for a modern aesthetic in both spaces. Rather than replacing the white wall tile in the main bathroom, we decided to embrace it. We created a white-tiled shower and paired it with a contemporary white vanity. We installed an industrial-style light fixture on the wooden ceiling to add an interesting contrast between historical Tuscany and modern European design. Insights: Our goal is to share our experiences, even though we are not experts. This blog aims to encourage home shoppers in Italy to look beyond dated decor and recognize a home's potential. It is possible to preserve the historic character of a purchased house while giving it a modern feel. Gradually, we aim to achieve that balance. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 146: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. Step 2: Every morning, as we drove to get coffee from our home in Tuscany, we often spotted a church on a hill. "We should try to find a road that leads up there," we would say, but we never quite managed to discover how to access the mysterious stone church from the road below. Curious about the church and its history, I decided to do some research. After finding its name, I entered it into Google Maps and discovered a way to reach an incredible historic site: a Templar Knights church located near Arcidosso! The church's official name is "Pieve di Santa Maria ad Lamulas at Montelaterone." Step 3: Some history The Pieve di Santa Maria ad Lamulas, also known as the Pieve di Lamulas, has historical records dating back to 853 when Emperor Louis II of Italy confirmed its ownership. From the 9th to the 11th century, it served as the main religious and administrative center for the Maremma region, located west of Mount Amiata. According to local legend, the name "Lamulas" is derived from "la mula," meaning "the mule." It is said that a mule, feeling unworthy, knelt at the church's entrance instead of entering, leaving knee prints in the stone that are still visible today. By 1070, the Pieve had lost its significance and became a parish church. The Knights Templar reconstructed it between 1267 and 1270. An inscription in the first right pillar indicates that the reconstruction was completed in June 1268 under the reign of Charles I of Naples. The church is situated along a branch of the Via Francigena pilgrimage route, likely making it a safe haven for travelers. Step 4: Mysteries inside We recently found a way to reach it, so we decided to explore and see what we might discover. As we entered the church, we first noticed a cross enclosed in a circle at the entrance, a symbol recognized by Templar travelers centuries ago. Behind the main altar, an inverted carved stone block known as a "Seed Stone" confirms the Templars' assurance of safe haven for travelers. In November 1935, restoration efforts revealed two lancet windows and a door on the left wall. The latter features a carved architrave and fresco, both adorned with additional Templar symbols. One noteworthy column contains winding black stone steps that connect heaven and earth, referred to as the "Axis Mundi." At the altar is a wooden sculpture of the Madonna and Child, believed to be the sole survivor of a great fire. The two ram's heads in the sculpture symbolize strength and guidance. Armed knights on horseback flank each side of the presbytery, facing a fearsome beast. A juggler stands behind one knight while another terrifying creature lurks under the eaves. All of these were symbols used in the Templar era. The presbytery has a carved mask that may have Etruscan origins. Above the left aisle door, a woven lintel features Solomon knots and two symbolic frescoes: one depicts a flower of life with six petals, while the other has eight petals. Additionally, three medieval graffiti symbols can be found: six small balls, a Greek cross, and an octagonal shield with seven spheres, likely left by the Knights Templar during restoration between 1267 and 1270. Many more treasures await discovery within the church, and I invite you to explore as many as you can before checking the numbered photograph collection on the left wall of the nave, which leads visitors to the interpretation of the various Templar symbols inside. Step 5: The Rise and Fall of the Knights Templar The Knights Templar were established around 1119 and received official recognition from the Pope in 1129. This medieval Christian military order combined martial skills with a monastic lifestyle to defend Christian holy sites and protect pilgrims in the Middle East and beyond. Headquartered in Jerusalem and later in Acre, the Templars became a key and elite part of Crusader armies. Over time, the Knights Templar grew into a powerful organization, controlling castles and lands in the Levant and across Europe. However, French King Philip IV falsely accused them of heresy and corruption, successfully persuading the Pope to disband the order in 1312. Following this, King Philip confiscated many of the lands and castles that the Templars had accumulated, enriching himself and his kingdom. Step 6: Other signs to look for Armed knights on horseback facing a monstrous beast The laughing juggler The scary beast lurking on the column The wild cat The two carved faces in the presbytery Templar symbols above a door: At the bottom, a stack of six small balls. Above that a circle containing a Greek cross with branched ends. And above that, an octagonal shield containing seven small spheres Celtic knots A small dog Knights templar cross Step 7: Why it is interesting I have always found the Knights Templar intriguing due to its controversies. They were an organization that aimed to combine the medieval lifestyles of knighthood and monasticism with the mission of protecting pilgrims traveling to the Holy Land. They began as a group of poor men, which is reflected in their symbol of two men riding on one horse. Over the centuries, their lands and wealth grew as donations increased, making them a powerful force in a fragmented medieval world. However, their success ultimately led to their downfall, as the papacy fell under the control of the French monarchy, resulting in their dissolution so that a wealthy king could amass even more riches. Their story encompasses themes of idealism, faith, greed, power, and everything in between. The legendary mule prints at the door The Pieve di Santa Maria ad Lamulas is particularly interesting because of the history engraved in its stones. This structure initially served as a safe house for pilgrims, complete with a chapel, before evolving into the current church. This place enabled me to "touch history." Visiting there was a fantastic experience, connecting me to their world. Step 8: Sources: https://www.maremmaguide.com/pieve-di-santa-maria-ad-lamulas.html https://www.worldhistory.org/Knights_Templar/#google_vignette Step 9: See my other blog on the Knights Templar in our area of Tuscany : Link. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 147: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing.  This week, let's explore hiking and trekking around Monte Amiata. We are starting our adventure in Tuscany, discovering some amazing hiking in our area, and we want to share what we have found so far. Step 2: History Monte Amiata is the only mountain in the southern Tuscany region and the highest-extinct volcano in Italy. Its summit is 1,738 meters above sea level, and this extinct volcano marks the border between the provinces of Siena and Grosseto, where the territory of the Maremma meets the Val D'Orcia. The Etruscans considered Monte Amiata their Mount Olympus, and the area has been inhabited since prehistoric times due to its fertile land, mineral deposits, and thickly forested slopes. The last volcanic eruption was 180,000 years ago, and you can still notice the huge boulders that dot the slopes from the eruptions. There are many trails in and around Monte Amiata, suitable for trekking, biking, and even horseback riding. The best-known trail is the "Ring" or Anello dell'Amiata. Most of the woods on Monte Amiata have marked paths, and the network of trails covers an area of approximately 215 km, divided into 19 routes. Step 3: The Ring Trail Monte Amiata offers one of Tuscany's best-designed and well-kept circular trails, the Ring Trail or Anello dell'Amiata. This trail, indicated by red and white signs, stretches between 1000 and 1300 meters and can be accessed from all roads leading to the mountaintop. It takes about 12 hours to complete the entire circle, but shorter walk options are also available along the ring (see below). The Anello dell'Amiata is linked to most Amiata towns through a series of smaller paths. Why go on this hike? The chestnut forests, panoramic views, and immersion in nature make the walk a rewarding experience. We are tackling the Ring hike in sections of a few hours a day to keep it enjoyable while still reaping its benefits along the way. Step 4: Other trails There are paths for all levels, many of which are great for biking, whether mountain or e-bike. I will describe several fantastic hikes, ranging from 50 minutes to 5 hours. These hikes lead along the old mining sites or through chestnut and pine forests. I will also describe an extremely easy hike, using the chairlift, at the end of this post. Identifying the routes below is easy because they all start and end at the municipal stadium of Abbadia San Salvatore and are indicated by different- colored signs. a) Mine Route Red trail : 4.3 km, taking approximately 50 minutes. This route reaches an altitude of 985 meters, passes by the old mining plant, offers a stunning view of the lake, and then loops back to Abbadia. b) Path of S. Antonio The brown trail is 9.8 km long and takes approximately 2 hours to complete. This path reaches an altitude of 1068 meters and includes some challenging sections. It winds through chestnut and pine forests, following the old road that connected Abbadia San Salvatore to Piancastagnaio. The trail ends at the old farm of S. Antonio and Cipriana (1000 meters above sea level) before returning to Abbadia San Salvatore, which connects to other paths in the final section. c) Cipriana route The trail is marked with blue signs and is 12.5 kilometers long, typically taking about 2 1/2 hours to complete. The trail reaches an altitude of 1068 meters and includes a few challenging sections. It passes through chestnut and pine forests along the old road connecting Abbadia San Salvatore and Piancastagnaio up to the Cerro del Tasca farm. From there, it continues to the ruins of Montarioso, offering a beautiful mountain view, and then leads to Cipriana before descending back to Abbadia San Salvatore. d) Capomacchia route Purple signs . The route is 22.5 km long and takes about 5 hours to complete. This route is more challenging and reaches an elevation of 1530 meters above sea level. The path winds through chestnut and pine forests, continues through a centuries-old beech forest, and ends a few hundred meters from the mountain's summit. Along the way, hikers will pass through the village of Catarcione, the chestnut trees of Acquapassante with its sulphur hot springs, the church of Ermeta, and eventually join other paths to reach Abbadia. Step 5: Resources https://waidy.it/en/water-sightseeing-routes/mount-amiata-trails.html https://www.veganiinviaggio.it/2020/09/15/trekking-sul-monte-amiata/ Step 6: Very EASY hike from the summit Fear not! There is an easy hike waiting for you! The first time we hiked on Monte Amiata, we took the tram (funivia) up to the large metal cross at the summit and then hiked back down. It was an easy hike, and the tram ride offered stunning views, just like the hike itself. Below us, cyclists were navigating the challenging mountain bike trails, and as we ascended above the treetops, the vistas became truly spectacular. After getting off the tram, we took a short hike to reach the cross, where there’s a restaurant, tourist facilities, and breathtaking scenery. Hiking the descent was incredible, or just jump on the tram again. Insights: Living in Tuscany, we aim to lead an active lifestyle. Hiking on Monte Amiata and throughout Tuscany provides exercise, beautiful panoramas, and delightful surprises of nature. We plan to explore more on foot every time we are here. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 146: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing.  This week, let's explore whether Tuscany is an affordable option for house hunters. Step 2: When my partner first suggested living in Tuscany, my response was, "We can't afford it." At the time, I was still working, and we were evaluating all the factors involved in establishing a life in Italy. Since we planned to maintain residences in both California and Italy, we needed to stick to our budget to make it feasible. I argued that living in Tuscany would be impossible due to the high cost of housing. We then shifted our focus to other regions and ultimately decided on Puglia, where our friends lived, as it resembled our lifestyle in Southern California and was very affordable. Step 3: My statement, "We can't afford Tuscany," was based more on impressions than on thorough research. We had previously visited the Val d'Orcia and fallen in love with the rolling hills, the iconic town of Pienza, the charming Montepulciano, the wineries, and the stunning city of Florence. It felt like a magical land, seemingly out of reach for us to live in, but accessible for visits. Eventually, we settled in Puglia. However, after about a year, our local friend repeatedly urged us to return to Tuscany to explore another part of the region. "You should go to Monte Amiata! I have ridden through its towns on my motorcycle; there are beautiful villages, breathtaking panoramas, and some areas are as affordable as Puglia! You have to see it," he said, time and again. For reasons I can't fully explain, we didn't heed his advice until a year later, when we finally decided to drive up to the Monte Amiata region of Tuscany. Step 4: Monte Amiata Monte Amiata is a mountainous region located in southern Tuscany, between the provinces of Siena and Grosseto. There is an extinct volcano that has significantly shaped the local landscape, which offers various outdoor activities such as trekking, hiking, and skiing. The region is also known for its medieval villages, chestnut forests, and natural spas. Additionally, it is located near the famous Val d'Orcia. Step 5: What we found. Our intention was to visit the area, explore some towns in the Monte Amiata region, enjoy the local cuisine, hike up the mountain, and, just for fun, look at a few houses for sale. We had already reviewed some homes on the market in Puglia and were curious to compare them with what was available in this part of Tuscany. What we discovered included: - An amazing natural area for skiing and hiking on Monte Amiata, with a lift operating in the summer and winter; below the lift is the coolest mountain bike track I've ever seen. - An easy drive to the Val d'Orcia region, where we visited Pienza, the iconic Renaissance town. - Multiple medieval towns situated on hilltops and elsewhere closeby. - Friendly people. - Housing options that fit within our budget. - A historical house that truly captivated us with its charm. Step 6: What we did. We had no intention of buying a house when we visited the Tuscany region, but that's exactly what happened. As we explored the area, we grew fond of it. We visited several homes on the market, but none felt like the right fit. At the time, we were just looking for fun. Then, our gracious realtor introduced us to a 16th-century gem in the medieval Templar town of Arcidosso. When we found ourselves alone, I asked my partner what he thought. "Well, we didn't come here to buy; we were just looking," he said. "What do you think?" I replied, "What do you think?" He responded, "Well, what do you think?" I said, "I think we're on the same page." So we decided to make an offer. If it didn't go through, we would be content renting in Tuscany or even staying in Puglia. We felt at peace either way. In the end, our offer was accepted, and here we are in Tuscany! Step 7: The lessons Affordability is a relative concept; what is affordable for one person may not be for another. We had a specific price range that guided our house search since we were still maintaining our home in California, and I am now retired and living on my teacher's pension. This range helped us narrow down areas where real estate was available within our budget. Southern Tuscany offers options for those looking to buy a house for under or around 100,000 euros. In fact, some towns have fixer upper properties well below that price, while others may be slightly above it. I never thought we could find a decent home in Tuscany for less than 500,000 euros. My initial perception was due to my lack of research and the fact that I associated Tuscany primarily with Florence and the big villas of Val d'Orcia. However, by speaking with locals, following up on leads, and remaining open to new discoveries, we ultimately found this region of Tuscany, which is rich in charm, history, and stunning views. And, it's affordable! Step 8: So is Tuscany affordable? Tuscany can be affordable, depending on where you search and what you're looking for. Specifically, the southern region of Tuscany, particularly around Monte Amiata, offers reasonable options for those who want to live near the Val d'Orcia. This area is packed with medieval towns and offers numerous opportunities for an active lifestyle. However, it's important to note that the nearest major train station is 45 minutes away, so it's also important to become comfortable driving in Italy. Overall, Tuscany can indeed be affordable! See blog post on selling our house in Tuscany. Link here. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 145: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing.  This week, let's explore our adventures in Rome at the funeral of Pope Francis. Step 2: Last we saw him "Wasn't that amazing!" my partner exclaimed as the Popemobile passed by on Easter Sunday. "I actually made eye contact with him," he continued. It was true; we had decided to go to Rome for the Easter weekend, and a good friend there had obtained tickets for us to attend the outdoor Easter Sunday service. The liturgy was beautiful, and joy filled the air, creating a celebratory atmosphere throughout the service. It was even more special when Pope Francis stepped out onto the balcony to deliver his Easter message and blessing. Once he retreated and the bands began to play, my partner suggested we quickly exit to avoid the crowds. We hurried down the steps toward the exit until I spotted a much-needed bathroom. "I will be right back," I said as I slipped inside. Many people were using the bathroom, so it took a few minutes before I emerged again. Just as I did, an announcement was made: "Pope Francis is coming down momentarily to greet the faithful." Before we knew it, a guard ushered us into an enclosed area with about eight other people, and a few minutes later, we saw the white jeep approaching. Because we were near the Vatican City entrance from which the jeep was coming, we were able to see him and wave twice. He passed just about four feet in front of us. It's difficult to describe what I felt at that moment—a mix of excitement, disbelief, joy, amazement, and gratitude. As we waited for the jeep to come around a second time, we both expressed how surprising it was to be so close to Pope Francis, whom I have always admired and considered my hero. Step 3: Back to Tuscany Our drive back to our place in Tuscany took about three hours. "Do you feel like cooking tonight?" my partner asked. I shook my head. "Let's stop at our favorite café and get some Pici," he suggested, referring to the thick spaghetti-like noodles with ragu sauce. It didn't take much to convince me. Since we go to this café ( https://www.dabegname.it/  ) every morning for coffee, we enjoy their food and have become friends with some of the staff and the owner, who is a wonderful woman. We walked in, greeted everyone, and stood in line to order our takeout dinner. "I'm so glad you got to see the Pope before he passed away," our friend, the owner, said. I turned to her, thinking it was a poorly-timed joke. She continued, "I saw on your Facebook page that you got to see him up close. I'm glad for you…" As she spoke, I fumbled for my phone. "You're kidding, aren't you?" I blurted out. I finally opened my phone, clicked on the news, and saw the headlines. I called out to my partner, who was on the other side of the café, "Pope Francis died this morning!" Our friend, the owner, backed away, visibly upset, saying, "I can't talk about this." I sank into a chair as my partner walked away to gather himself before sitting next to me. "I can't believe this. We could almost touch him yesterday, and today he's gone." We sat there silently for a long time, trying to process what had just happened. When we got our food, we drove home in silence. Pope Francis was gone. Step 4: Back to Rome. The lodging. The suddenness of his death, combined with the joy of being so close to Pope Francis the day before, made it difficult for me to find any emotional closure. I didn't want to forget what had happened; instead, I wanted to come to terms with it. "Why don't we return to Rome for a night? We can attend the viewing and play the funeral by ear; that way, I can say 'thank you' and 'goodbye' to the Pope," I suggested. My partner, feeling the same way, readily agreed. Next, we needed to decide how to make the trip. A friend of mine in Rome informed us that the funeral would likely be on Saturday, and if we arrived on Friday, we could probably see Pope Francis lying in state. The word "probably" bothered me, though, and I wanted some certainty before booking a place to stay overnight. We went for coffee, as we often do, and while there, we browsed possible accommodations for Friday night. We found several great options near the Vatican and narrowed our search to three or four places. Around 10:15 a.m., I checked my news feed and confirmed that the funeral was indeed on Saturday and that the viewing would be available until Friday at 7 p.m. Immediately, we grabbed our phones to book one of the places we had pre-selected, only to watch them all vanish before our eyes. Suddenly, AirBnB listings popped up, charging 400-600 euros per night! Realizing time was of the essence, we knew we had to book a place within the next few minutes or risk missing out. I rarely use Booking.com , but I decided to check it for options. I found a place that looked to be near the Vatican, received reviews like "Wonderful" and "Excellent," and the photos appeared inviting. "It's about 200 euros a night; should I book it before we lose it?" I asked. My partner agreed, so I completed the booking. We were set. Upon arriving in Rome, we parked the car and made our way to the lodging, only to discover it was farther from the Vatican than we had expected, and the neighborhood left much to be desired. "I didn't think such a run-down area could be close to St. Peter's," my partner remarked. When we entered the lodging, our reactions were the same. "What the heck?" I exclaimed, using the word with two "l" s. What a dump," my partner added. Unlike the photos, the room was tiny and filled only with a bed and two cheap, wobbly folding plastic chairs that seemed likely to break if we sat on them. The shower was moldy, and the bedspread hadn't been washed. I felt guilty since I had pushed to book this place out of fear we would miss out. "I'm just going to sleep in my clothes tonight; there might be bedbugs," my partner said. I didn't want our poor lodging to dampen our day, so I suggested we consider the trip a pilgrimage, complete with the minor hardships it entails since we were there to see Pope Francis one last time and not to enjoy an elegant room. (Although "elegant" was part of the lodging's name.) We made our peace with the shabby accommodations, secured our belongings, and set out to get in line for the viewing. Step 5: The viewing We had been informed that we would have to wait in line for 4 to 5 hours before we could enter the basilica to see Pope Francis lying in state, so we took along some water bottles and snacks to prepare for the wait. When we arrived, we noticed many young people in line, and the process seemed well organized. First, we had to pass through security. A few obnoxious individuals tried to cut in front of those waiting, but I decided to let it go. Once we cleared security, we joined the line that snaked around the piazza. Surprisingly, the line moved faster than expected, and in about 2 hours, we were inside! The day before our visit, I had read an article by a friend of Pope Francis, Antonio Spadaro, who described the contrast between the rigid, lifeless body of the Pope and the vibrant, compassionate figure we knew—always bending down to embrace others, washing the feet of prisoners, and kissing the feet of South Sudanese political leaders as he implored them to stop the war. This article helped set the context for me as I gazed upon the body of Pope Francis, who no longer looked like the man we knew but was rigid instead. It was not shocking; I felt grateful to be there. We were able to move to the side and take a moment to reflect. During this time, I felt a sense of peace as I thanked Pope Francis for who he was, said my goodbyes, and prayed for those dear to me. As we left the basilica, I felt a mix of sadness, joy, and a sense of completion. Step 6: The funeral We didn't sleep well at our AirBnB from hell, so getting up early to see if we could attend the funeral wasn't a problem. We dropped our belongings in the car, parked near the Vatican at a parking garage, and then walked over to the Vatican area after asking a police officer for directions. We spotted a crowd waiting in what could hardly be described as a "line." A fence and gate held everyone back, and security guards and volunteers instructed people to wait. We anticipated a wait, but it was difficult amidst an ever-growing crowd—some pious-looking women were elbowing their way ahead while others were pushing us from behind. After about 40 minutes, the guards opened the gate, and we rushed forward, only to find ourselves in another mob of people. "I can't do this," my partner said. "I'm going to watch from the outside; you go ahead, and I'll meet you at the car afterward." Though I wanted him to stay, I understood how the chaotic atmosphere could be overwhelming. Before I could respond, he was gone. I remained in the crowd, and after another 30 minutes, the gate opened again, allowing me to slip through! Once inside, I quickly passed through security and was free from the mob. There was ample space within the security area, so I walked to the far side of the Via della Conciliazione and positioned myself right behind a wooden barrier in front of a jumbotron. Here, I could watch the proceedings on the screen without being pushed. As I stood there, enjoying my newfound space, I noticed that security guards periodically let large groups of people through the gate at the middle of the Via della Conciliazione, allowing them to approach the piazza more closely. I faced a decision: whether to stay where I was, watching the funeral from a distance on the jumbotron, or take the risk of moving through the gate when it opened to see how close I could get. I wavered: stay or go, stay or go. I decided to take the chance after about 40 minutes in my secure space, and 90 minutes before the funeral. I left my safe spot and stepped through the open gate, joining a crowd of others passing through. I went with the crowd, and after about five minutes, I found myself in Piazza San Pietro, near the central obelisk, facing the basilica. I couldn't believe how quickly I had moved! One minute, I was halfway back on the Via della Conciliazione, and the next, I was in the middle of the piazza. "Maybe this is meant to be," I thought. I positioned myself behind a large group of teenagers sitting on the ground and waited for the funeral to begin. I couldn't believe my good fortune! When the funeral finally started, I was struck by the small, simple wooden coffin placed among some of the world's most powerful people. It was a stark contrast—the simplicity of this man who taught others how to live through humility and always spoke of peace in the midst of world leaders who often have other priorities. Transitioning from standing on the sidelines in front of the jumbotron to being in the piazza shifted my role from a spectator to a participant, for which I was grateful. I found the funeral to be moving, sad, and inspiring. Step 7: The aftermath The crowd control after the funeral was excellent, and in just a few moments, I found myself outside the piazza. Since we had parked on Janiculum Hill, I only needed to walk down one street and cross another, and then we could jump in the car and drive home to Tuscany. "Sorry, you cannot cross this street," a police officer told me. "The funeral procession, with the Pope's casket, is coming through. You have to wait before crossing, and this could take a while. Or you can go around," she said, pointing towards the crowded round castle and bridge area. Rather than waiting, I decided to take the longer route, walking behind the crowd. After about half an hour, I finally reached the other side of the Tiber. I just needed to go to the next bridge, cross over, and I would be at the garage! When I arrived at the next bridge, another police officer said, "Sorry, you cannot cross. " I had no idea what was happening; security was tight, with police rafts in the river, a drone overhead, and officers scanning the sky with binoculars. I couldn't move for a while, so I leaned against the bridge to wait until they let us through. Then, there was a commotion, followed by a long line of police officers on motorcycles. "What's happening?" I asked the woman next to me. "I think they are bringing Pope Francis through here," she replied. Within five minutes, I looked up and saw the vehicle carrying the casket with Pope Francis right in front of me—very close, since there weren't many people on that bridge. Perhaps they, like me, didn't realize the funeral procession was passing through. It was incredible to have the opportunity to say "thank you" and goodbye to Pope Francis three times: once in the basilica the day before, again during the funeral, and now, during the procession. Step 8: The Gratitude "How was it?" my partner asked as I got into the car a few minutes later. "I feel a sense of completion now that I didn't have before. I am so grateful. These days have been magical. Thank you for being a part of it." Then we drove home, filled with the experience. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 144: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing.  This week, let's explore why toilet seats are missing in some public restrooms in Italy. Step 2: Predicament Have you ever found yourself in this situation? You're traveling or away from your lodging in Italy, and you really need to find a bathroom. You rush in, check for toilet paper (what a relief!), and then turn to sit down—only to discover there's no toilet seat. How do you react? (No swearing please) Step 3: Experience Today, I walked into the bathroom at our gym in Tuscany and noticed, once again, the absence of toilet seats. I decided to ask the manager about it. Additionally, I spoke with some locals regarding the shortage of toilet seats and, at times, toilet paper. Here's what I discovered. Step 4: Why? The first reason for the lack of toilet seats is breakage. Our gym manager explained this issue: "It's not a matter of cultural differences; it's about usage. I've replaced the toilet seat six times, and each time it was broken. People come in, and because they don't want to touch the seat, they squat on it—or even stand on it! Naturally, this causes the seat to break, so I just stopped replacing them." The second reason for the absence of toilet seats, as locals have informed me, is that there isn't a "one size fits all" toilet seat in Italy. While the U.S. has a few sizes of toilet seats, Italy features many different types of toilets and seats. Consequently, finding a replacement for an older toilet seat can be quite challenging. Our gym manager also mentioned the toilet paper dilemma: "Every time I put toilet paper in the bathroom, someone steals it. When I put hand sanitizer there, it disappears too. I have no idea why, so I stopped providing it." Additionally, a local shared that it's difficult to find staff to clean public restrooms. The dirtier the restroom becomes, the less likely people are to want to sit on a dirty seat, which leads them to stand or squat. By the way, I can't imagine how anyone aside from an acrobat could stand on top of a toilet seat and use it. Step 5: Dealing with it. Plan. Instead of complaining about the mystery of the missing toilet seat in Italy, it's more practical to create a plan. Here's what I do: 1. Carry disinfectant wipes. 2. Bring your own toilet paper or wipes. 3. Have something to cover the toilet rim before sitting down. First, wipe the rim with disinfectant. Then, place toilet paper or another covering over the rim. After that, sit, relax, and enjoy. Remember to bring your own toilet paper or wipes for cleaning up. Finally, wash your hands. Now, face the world with confidence! Insights: With a little planning, the mystery of the missing toilet seat doesn't have to ruin an outing. Instead, it can become one more memory that brings a smile. If one is prepared. More next time. Please see related blog on the mystery of the Italian washing machine. Link is here . My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 143: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing.  This week, let's explore whether I should be afraid to drive in Italy. Step 2: I was afraid The first time I drove in Italy was in Rome during the 1980s, and it was not the best experience. Two things stand out: First, it took me an hour to travel just half a mile because I didn't yet know how to drive assertively, and everyone kept cutting me off. Second, when I was nearly out of gas and pulled into a gas station on a Saturday afternoon, I discovered it was closed and there was no auto-pay system available. After that experience, I didn't drive in Italy for over 20 years. I constantly told myself that I couldn't do it—that it was too complicated and that I wasn't aggressive enough behind the wheel. I feared that I would get into a terrible accident and bleed to death and die. However, as our plan to establish a life in Italy developed, I realized that not driving in Italy would really hold me back and limit my experience. Step 3: The first time I tried A few years ago, after my partner returned to the U.S. and I stayed in Italy for a few more weeks, I decided to explore Sardinia and give driving in Italy another try. I thought that driving in Sardinia would be easier than in other areas, and I wanted to see if I could regain my confidence behind the wheel. I stayed in Cagliari, where my Airbnb host assured me there was plenty of street parking available. When I picked up my rental car, I felt nervous, especially since it had a manual transmission. However, within just a few minutes, driving began to feel natural again—almost as if I were back in California. My confidence grew over the next few days, and by the time I left Sardinia, I knew I could drive in Italy with assurance. Step 4: The clutch Renting a car in Italy with an automatic transmission can be significantly more expensive than opting for a manual one, so I decided to give it a try in Sardinia. The last time I drove a stick shift was in high school, so I was nervous before I picked up the car. When I got into the car in Cagliari, my skills at driving a manual transmission came back to me almost immediately. It was eerie how quickly I remembered it; I even recalled that I had preferred driving a stick shift during my youth. It gave me a greater sense of control over the car. Driving a manual transmission wasn't very challenging, and fortunately, I had a relatively traffic-free area in Sardinia to practice in. Many people develop an unnecessary fear of driving a manual transmission car, but it's actually relatively easy to learn how to drive one. I recommend that anyone considering a trip to Italy rent a stick shift car in their home country first, especially if they have never driven one before. It's simple to pick up! Additionally, those who have driven a manual car in the past will find it even easier to relearn. Step 5: Another issue: Traffic cameras We thought we were safe from speeding tickets in Italy as long as we drove with the flow of traffic, but that turned out to be a false belief. Six months after one of our trips to Italy, we received a strange-looking letter written in Italian. It informed us that we had been caught speeding on our way to the Rome airport and were required to pay a fine of a couple of hundred euros. The longer we delayed paying, the more the cost would increase. During that trip, we had been careful to keep up with the traffic flow without paying much attention to our speedometer, which turned out to be a mistake. In recent years, we've noticed a significant increase in the number of speed cameras in Italy. Going with the flow of traffic is no assurance that one is following the speed limits. Regardless of traffic flow, we now always adhere to the posted speed limits--which can continuously change on the same road or highway. Some speed cameras are fake — locals seem to know which ones are not real — but others capture photos of speeding vehicles, and you might not find out about a ticket until months later. It's best to follow the speed limits posted on signs or displayed on Google Maps. Step 6: Will the police stop me? We've all seen groups of police officers waving down drivers, but we have never been stopped. "Could it be because they see we are foreigners?" I asked my partner, who shrugged in response. Since we have never been stopped, I can't provide a firsthand account, but I can say that we are prepared. We keep the car's paperwork in the glove compartment and always carry our regular and international driver's licenses when driving. I also have a photo of my passport on my phone, as well as a photo of my international driver's license. If we are ever stopped, we hope that we have all the necessary paperwork that the police might be looking for. Step 7: Toll booths When I first started driving in Italy, toll booths freaked me out. I would panic as I tried to steer into the credit card lane while searching for my wallet. However, now I glide through them like a pro. Grabbing a ticket or tapping my credit card is a breeze, and I no longer stress about finding change or bills. Now, toll booths are not a big deal for me, and I can navigate them like a local driver. So can you! It just takes practice. Step 8: Navigating cities I asked my partner to take the wheel when we drove to Rome for Easter. We found a parking garage near the Vatican that allowed us to avoid the ZTL (traffic-restricted) zones, but was still in the middle of a busy area. My partner agreed to drive, as he enjoys it, and we set off for Rome. We took an alternative route along the coast, passing through Grosseto, which helped us avoid the twists and turns that Google Maps usually leads us through our mountainous area. Driving in Rome—or any major European city—requires agility and quick decision-making, but I just wanted to relax this time. We arrived at the parking garage without any incidents and stayed in Rome for a few days before returning on a Monday. On the return, the navigator guided us through some crowded streets in Trastevere and up steep hills. At one point, a taxi suddenly lurched in front of us, leaving us at a standstill in an intersection. The taxi driver cursed at us, acting like it was our fault, while a passerby shouted for us to back up. We waited a few minutes, hoping the taxi would let us pass, but he continued waving his arms. Even though we had the right of way, we decided to back up and let him go around before proceeding. Driving in a busy European city can be stressful, so I'm happy to let my partner take the wheel when he wants to. However, I now feel confident in my own driving abilities because I've become accustomed to driving in other areas. Step 9: Going the wrong way in Assisi We drove to Assisi and parked in one of the underground garages near the historical center. We spent a few days there during Christmas and had a fantastic time; parking was easy since we had reserved it in advance. On the day we were leaving, we needed to get to the other side of the city from our parking spot to reach the main road out of town. The logical route was to exit the parking structure, go downhill out of the historical center, and take the road around the base of Assisi to start our journey to the next destination. Simple enough. So, we entered our destination into Google Maps, exited the garage, and followed its directions. I was relieved that my partner was driving as Google Maps began to lead us in circles, seemingly unable to navigate the medieval twisty streets. At one point, it instructed us to turn right onto a set of steep stone stairs heading downward. We managed to avoid that near-disaster and continued straight. Next, we found ourselves on a very narrow cobblestone street, with a car approaching us from the opposite direction. We realized we were going the wrong way on a one-way street! Fortunately, we were able to back up, but that meant retracing our steps a long way. At that point, we turned off Google Maps and relied on our instincts to navigate wider streets downhill and out of Assisi. The lesson learned: try to avoid bringing a car into historical centers, or if that's not possible, ensure you have a clear sense of direction and don't solely rely on Google Maps. Reading signs and using common sense helped us find the road we needed. Step 10: Driving styles: Tuscany and Puglia While it is certainly possible to live in Italy without a car, I believe that having a car is essential in Tuscany. Whether you're visiting the Renaissance city of Pienza, the wine region of Montalcino, or the iconic town of Montepulciano, you'll find that there are no train tracks crisscrossing this region, making a car necessary for exploration. The Val d'Orcia, which showcases the beauty of rural Tuscany, is primarily accessible by driving. I was grateful to have overcome much of my fear of driving in Italy by the time we moved to Tuscany; driving through its iconic hills and navigating to historical towns is not particularly challenging. If I can do it, so can you! After living in Puglia, we moved to Tuscany. Let's examine some of the various driving styles. I want to note that my observations below are based solely on our experiences. Others may have different perspectives and experiences. Driving in Puglia: In Puglia, there seems to be a driving style that aims to intimidate other drivers into stopping or yielding. This behavior appears common among drivers of all ages. For instance, while driving down the main street in our town, we often encountered cars at intersections trying to turn right onto our street. As we approached, these drivers frequently lurched forward slightly, hoping we would stop or pause to allow them to merge in front of us. We learned to ignore this intimidation tactic and continue on our way. Driving in Tuscany: In Tuscany, we sometimes experience tailgating. Whether on a highway or a narrow mountain road, drivers will come up closely behind us, often just inches from our bumper, even when there's no way to let them pass on a winding road. My partner frequently remarks, "They're on my tail again." Our solution has been to find a safe spot to pull off the road, allowing them to pass so we can continue our journey stress-free. Step 11: Fear vs. reason There is a distinction between emotion and reason. I was afraid to drive for years because I generalized my negative driving experience from one day in Rome. It would be similar to driving in New York City and then being afraid to drive down a highway in Kansas. There are various driving situations: some I am comfortable with, while others make me uneasy. However, overcoming my universal fear of driving in Italy has been necessary to access the country and fully enjoy our experience living here. Step 12: Next step My next steps include improving my driving skills in towns in Italy, especially in Tuscany, and adopting a more relaxed driving style that stays calm in response to the diverse driving habits we encounter. I have made progress and can now drive in many areas of Italy without concerns, but I still feel nervous about driving in cities or historical towns. I also want to focus on overcoming these fears. What is your experience of driving in Italy? Please see related blog about updates on long term rental of a car in Italy. Link is here . More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

Our Home Featured on Youtube (Brad’s World) This is an “out of sync” blog which I am posting mid week because this just happened! PART 142.5: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing.  This week let’s explore our home on a popular Youtube channel: Brad’s World. Step 2: One of the unexpected benefits of establishing a life in Italy is meeting many interesting people. There are others out there who are looking for something more, whether it be a bigger life, more adventure or expanded horizons. It’s been exciting for us to meet expats from Sri Lanka, part timers from San Diego and home searchers from Washington DC. The willingness to help one another along this adventurous path has been an incredible experience that we have had time and time again. We had coffee the other day with a fantastic couple from California, who recently purchased a house in our area of Tuscany, and are about to embark on the renovation journey. We shared some of our experiences and resources, and they shared some of theirs. Then, one of them said, “Have you ever watched ‘Brad’s World’ on Youtube? He showcases homes for sale, but also produces informational videos on living in Italy. You should check him out!” I had heard of “Brad’s World,” and have watched many of his videos. “Brad produced a video about our house. I think he would love yours, especially since it is for sale and you guys have done such a great job. Why don’t you contact him?” Step 3: Brad and “Brad’s World” My partner and I have looked at many Youtube videos about real estate in Europe in general, and Italy in particular, over the years.  But Brad’s video presentations are different. What I find so interesting about Brad’s presentations are the fact that he does his homework. Instead of simply walking the viewer through a house for sale, he researches the town, its amenities and geography. He also makes the distinction to whether it is a seasonal town (busy in summer, empty in winter), year round or a dying town. This puts the house viewed into context, since a great house in an area that is not a good fit for someone would not have a positive ending. Brad also is a great guy and his sense of humor comes through on his videos, making them both informational and entertaining. So, I thought, why not contact him, to see if he is interested. Step 4: Deadline week We had coffee with our friends on Wednesday of this week, and we were leaving for California on Friday. “Contact him today if you can!” they urged us.  There was just no way he could come on such short notice; we would need to wait until September, when we returned, I thought. Brad confirmed as much; when I contacted him that same afternoon, he said he could come in a few weeks, since he was really backed up.   Step 5: Change of mind To give him more information, I sent Brad the real estate listing, with the photos of our renovated home in Arcidosso, Tuscany. About an hour later, I got a WhatsApp from him: “Mark, you guys did a fantastic job! I love your house, and my viewers would love it too! And just 99,000 euros? If you have some time tomorrow afternoon, I will switch my schedule around so we can make the video before you leave. Can we do that?” Uh, yeah, I said! Step 6: Brad, his method, and Brad’s World My first impression of Brad is that he is a great guy. My second impression of Brad is also that he is a great guy. Brad and his wife took the leap, moved to Italy full time, and are building a life for themselves in Montepulciano. They are also helping others realize their dream of living in Italy, sharing his experience along the way. I immediately connected with him and was happy to connect the person with the video channel. When we met at the clock tower in our town of Arcidosso, Brad expressed his enthusiasm for our town, which is alive year round, has all the amenities as well as historical character. Brad had already done his homework, as he told me that he had already filmed the town, found out where the local hospital and grocery stores are, and created the footage necessary to put the house into context, so that a viewer could judge if it would be a good fit for them or for someone else. I walked Brad past our 1,000 year old castle and led him through the historical center to our house. When we entered the house, Brad said, “Wow!” I think that the video he produced says the rest. Step 7: The link to the Brad’s World video on our home for sale: https://youtu.be/98i38kjrMQo?si=A1Uc29F1xJsqZZuW More next time.