PART 122: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we are taking and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall and spring, then back again in the Fall, and in California the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. This week, let's explore Charlemagne in Tuscany. Step 2: Some history. Who was Charlemagne? For those of us who struggle to remember the history of Charlemagne from our Western Civ class in college, here's a summary. Charlemagne was a powerful ruler who held significant influence over a large part of Western Europe from 768 to 814. In 771, he became the King of the Franks, a Germanic tribe that lived in present-day Belgium, France, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, and western Germany. Charlemagne was known for his military prowess and engaged in numerous battles and wars during his reign, which allowed him to expand his empire's reach. In 800, Pope Leo III crowned Charlemagne the Holy Roman Emperor, elevating his status to become one of the most influential leaders of his time. As an emperor, Charlemagne played a crucial role in the Carolingian Renaissance, a period of cultural and intellectual revival in Europe. He supported the arts and sciences and promoted education and literacy throughout his empire, laying the groundwork for the development of modern Europe. By his death in 814, Charlemagne's empire had expanded to cover much of Western Europe. His reign is often called the "Carolingian Empire," he is sometimes called the father of Europe due to his significant impact on the continent's history. Charlemagne's legacy continues today, and his contributions to the arts, education, and governance remain influential. Step 3: Charlemagne and Tuscany: Sant'Antimo In a separate blog post, I discuss Charlemagne's connection to Montalcino, but I'll provide a brief summary here. Legend has it that Charlemagne established the abbey of Sant'Antimo after he and his army suffered from the plague while on Monte Amiata. Charlemagne prayed for healing, which was granted. To express his gratitude for this miracle, he had Sant'Antimo built. The original core of the abbey was constructed when the relics of Sant'Antimo of Arezzo, a martyr who died in 352 A.D., were installed. This initial section was built on the remains of a Roman villa, which was believed to have had a healing water fountain, as indicated by an inscription on a piece of stone that reads "Venite et bibite" (come and drink). While returning from Rome in 781, Charlemagne stopped at Sant'Antimo along the Via Francigena. He left his seal on the monastery's foundation, which was still under construction. In 814, a decree from Louis the Pious, Charlemagne's son and successor, bestowed numerous gifts and privileges upon the abbey, officially elevating Sant'Antimo to an imperial abbey and ushering it into its full glory. Today, the abbey is home to a small community of sisters from Mexico and is utilized for religious services as well as for tours and hiking in the surrounding area. If you walk around the church and head towards the abbey pharmacy, you may glimpse the original Carolingian chapel if the door happens to be open. The chapel is located beneath the floor of the current abbey church. Step 4: Charlemagne takes over Tuscany (conquering the Lombard territories) Before Charlemagne: During the Middle Ages, Tuscany was ruled by various groups, including the Germans under Odoacer, the Ostrogoths, the Eastern Empire through Narses, and the Lombards following the Fall of the Roman Empire. In 773, Charlemagne, the King of the Franks, invaded the Kingdom of the Lombards, which included all of Italy except for the Duchy of Rome, the Republic of Venice, and the Byzantine possessions in the south. By June 774, the Lombard kingdom had collapsed, and the Franks became the rulers of northern Italy. Charlemagne declared himself the King of the Lombards and was crowned emperor in Rome in 800. As a result, Tuscany became a part of the Frankish Empire during Charlemagne's reign. The Carolingian dynasty continued to rule over Italy until Charles the Fat was deposed in 887, and the dynasty briefly regained the throne in 894-896. Step 5: Traces of Charlemagne Via Francigena The Via Francigena is a historic 2,000-kilometer pilgrimage route from Canterbury to Rome, also known as "the way of the Franks." It follows the path Sigeric, the Archbishop of Canterbury, took in AD 990 on his return journey from Rome after receiving his cloak of office, or pallium, from Pope John XV. The route gained popularity during the Carolingian era after the unification of a significant part of the north of the Italian peninsula under the Holy Roman Empire of Charlemagne. During this time, going on a pilgrimage became an important and widespread practice. San Miniato in Florence During the Carolingian Period in the 8th century, the Holy Roman Empire established a feudal system and designated Florence as a county. According to tradition from the earliest Florentine chronicles, Emperor Charlemagne visited Florence and contributed money and houses for the rebuilding of the original church of San Miniato in memory of his beloved bride Hildegard, who passed away at the age of 26. Siena In the 8th century, Siena began to take shape after being conquered by Charlemagne. The Frankish lords who took over the city married into the existing Sienese nobility and established abbeys that still exist today. One of these abbeys is the Abbey of Sant'Antimo. Step 6: Sources and more information links. https://www.history.com/topics/middle-ages/charlemagne#:~:text=Charlemagne%20was%20a%20medieval%20emperor,the%20Netherlands%20and%20western%20Germany . https://www.montalcinowinetours.com/what-to-see/the-val-dorcia/sant-antimo/ https://www.antimo.it Insights: Exploring the history of the area where we are settling down gives us a sense of appreciation and belonging to a rich and ongoing history. When we visit Sant'Antimo or other places associated with Charlemagne, the hours I spent in my Western Civilization class start to make sense and become relevant. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

This is an out-of-sync blog post to celebrate the publishing of my book in Italian! PART 59.5: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the Summer and then back again in the winter. Before the pandemic, I wrote a book about Rome called "She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome." In this work, I gathered some of the past and present stories that make Rome unique. The chapters include encounters with Nero, Augustus, Caravaggio, street performers, expats, and contemporary Romans. The book has done relatively well, having been published by a small UK publishing house (Dixibooks). But I wanted the book to be published in Italian so that those living in this beautiful country could be part of the "love affair with Rome" described in this book. But how? Step 1: Starting point. Dixibooks has been good about seeking out publishers in different language areas; the Rome book was published in Serbian and English. However, the publisher needed help finding contacts in Italy willing to take on this book. I would have to do the footwork. My starting point was confusion: Where do I begin? Who do I know in the Italian publishing world? The answer: nobody. So, I turned to LinkedIn. Step 2: Contacts, Annoyance, and Rewards. I've used LinkedIn in the past to recruit readers for the books I have published in the past. Being an unknown author, one has to start by connecting one-on-one with people, asking that they might read and review the book. Recruiting readers on LinkedIn can be annoying for some since most are on LinkedIn to connect with job contacts or career advancement. But, from all of the social media apps I have used, I have been most successful on LinkedIn in finding some interest in my books, especially the one about Rome. One must have a thick skin when putting oneself out there; some responses were warm ("I'd love to read your work!" others were angry ("So you come here to peddle your book?") and others seemed like scams ("Sure, I'd love to review your book. Let's talk about fees.”). I love writing but hate marketing, but there is just no way around it if one is trying to build their own readers base. So I jumped in, didn't respond to rude contacts, and am still building a base of interested readers. While searching for readers, I found an Italian publisher interested in my Rome book. Step 3: Copyrights and translations. One of the disadvantages of having a publisher (as opposed to self-publishing) is the contract's web of legal and financial obligations. For example, if I find a foreign publisher, there has to be a contract and financial agreement between the original English publisher and the translation publisher. I didn't yet have a clear understanding of these challenges. Step 4: Visiting Alpes Libri in Rome. Trying to accomplish something in Italy face to face rather than through phone calls or emails is much more effective. I gave the publisher the dates I would be in Rome, and we agreed on when to stop by. Step 5: This was easy! The staff at Alpes was/is interested, open, and professional. After discussing the book translation and contract with Dixi would involve, I set out to put the two publishing houses together to negotiate terms. I also agreed that I would find a translator for the book. Step 6: Where can I find a legitimate translator? There are offers for translation work all over the internet, but I needed to figure out where to start, who to trust, and the costs involved. However, after a few starts and stops, I again turned to LinkedIn. It was providential that an Italian professor from Southern California contacted me and asked about translating the book. She was already using the English version of the book in her classroom and thought that an Italian translation could benefit students and others. Step 7: Relationships. One great lesson of our time living in Italy is that, in the end, it is relationships that matter. A collaborative relationship sprung up between the translator, Alpes, and myself, in which we worked online and in person to craft a translation that would focus on transmitting meaning rather than just words. This was a long and sometimes challenging process; we went through several revisions to capture what each chapter, story, and dialogue was trying to convey. Step 8: The result. The result of this translation journey is the Italian publishing of "Lei mi ha sedotto: Una storia d'amore con Roma." I am happy that some of the stories that make Rome unique are now accessible to the Italian-speaking world. It was an arduous journey, but worth it. More next time. SECOND EDITION NOW ON SALE FOR $2.99!  “She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome.” https://a.co/d/4Bx0Eh3 .  Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 90: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we are taking and what we are learning along the way. We are loving every minute of it, and what was once a dream is now our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall and then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore towns in Italy, we are discovering some gems that are worth sharing. Some of these are well known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. This week, let's explore Assisi in Umbria. Step 2: Our visit Spending Christmas in Italy can be both rewarding and tough. It's rewarding because Italy has unique ways of celebrating the holiday, which are quite different from those in Southern California. However, it can also be tough because our family is far away, and our local friends are occupied with their own celebrations. To overcome the challenge, we have decided to meet up with our friends from Puglia and Rome after Christmas. Meanwhile, we planned to spend the holiday itself in Assisi. Step 3: History Assisi, a town founded by the Umbrians around 1000 BC, was conquered by the Etruscans about 500 years later, and then it was taken over by the Romans after the Battle of Sentinum in 295 BC. It became a part of the Duchy of Spoleto during the early Middle Ages. In the 12th century, it became an independent Ghibelline commune and had a lot of battles with Guelph Perugia until it was annexed to the Papal States in the 16th century. Francis, born in 1182 in Assisi, was a carefree young man who dreamed of becoming a knight. After being captured and imprisoned for a year, Francis returned home as a broken man. He decided to go to war again but had a vision telling him to return home. This was a turning point in his life. Francis began to beg for stones and repaired the chapel of San Damiano with his own hands. Francis then went to live among lepers and ministered to them, realizing that he and the poor were building the kingdom of God. He expanded his brother's/followers' ministry beyond Assisi and even went on missionary journeys preaching conversion and forgiveness. Francis also tried to be a peacemaker between Christians and Muslims during the Fifth Crusade. He revered all created things and had a harmonious relationship with animals and nature. The remains of St. Francis and St. Clare were discovered in 1818 and 1850, making Assisi one of the most important pilgrimage destinations in Italy and the world. However, what's less known is that during World War II, Assisi played a crucial role in hosting over 300 Jewish refugees from September 1943 through June 1944. These refugees were disguised as friars and nuns and hidden in underground basements. Thanks to the bravery and sacrifices of the locals, the local refugees were never deported to Nazi concentration camps. Step 4: Assisi and Francis and Clare If anyone tells me that they are planning a visit to Assisi, I always recommend that they watch the movie starring Mickey Rourke first: https://youtu.be/18rO843lZvM?si=oM_Dfc0iA49sKZb9 . Whether someone is religious or not, having a basic understanding of the history of St. Francis and Clare can provide a better context to what they see and experience in Assisi. The video shared above provides an objective view of the lives of these two figures without being overly preachy. Step 5: Sights. Basilica of St. Francis The church was built between 1228 and 1253 and has three parts: the upper basilica, the lower basilica, and the saint's tomb. In the lower basilica, Giotto, a follower of St. Francis, painted a fresco of the Crucifixion that was considered revolutionary because it was so realistic and showed holy people expressing emotions. The saint's tomb is located beneath the lower basilica and is beautifully simple, just like the saint's message. Basilica of St. Clare The Basilica di Santa Chiara, also known as the Basilica of St. Clare, was constructed in the Gothic style during the 13th century, shortly after St. Clare's death. St. Clare was one of the first devotees of St. Francis and established the Order of Poor Clares, a religious order for women in the Franciscan tradition. The remains of St. Clare are preserved in the crypt within the basilica. The Chapel of San Giorgio houses the Crucifix, which is believed to have spoken to St. Francis. This cathedral is a stunning architectural masterpiece. It features three flying buttresses that run along one side of the church. Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli The basilica was built in the 16th and 17th centuries and houses the "Porziuncola" chapel, where St. Francis began to understand his mission to return to the origins of Christianity and to teach by example rather than just words. St. Francis passed away in the Chapel of the Transitus here. The basilica also has the Courtyard of the Roses, Rose Garden, and Chapel of the Roses. The Ancient Friary on the upper floor served as living quarters for the first friars. Church of St. Damian The Church of St. Damian, also known as the Convento di San Damiano, is an ancient church that dates back to the 8th century. During St. Francis's time, the church was in disrepair. While praying at the church, Francis heard a voice through the Crucifix to repair his house. He understood this to mean the Church of St. Damian and began renovating it with his own hands, but later, he realized that "house" referred to more than repairing a building. Subsequently, St. Clare established the Order of Poor Clares here, and just before his death, St. Francis wrote the Canticle of the Creatures on this spot. Step 6: Cool things. Strolling Via San Francesco is the road that connects Piazza Del Comune with the St. Francis Basilica. It is lined with small stone buildings, housing boutique shops that sell food, souvenirs, and religious artifacts. It is a cool walk that crosses the historical town. Ristorante Bar San Francesco This is where we had breakfast every morning. It has great food and coffee, views, and a unique atmosphere. We met an expat from Texas who moved to Assisi after he turned 80. He said it was the best decision he ever made. Piazza del Comune Assisi's main square is a must-visit spot for anyone exploring the city! Piazza del Comune is a large, open area surrounded by some of the area's most historic and significant buildings. You'll definitely want to check out the Temple of Minerva, the oldest building on the square and dates back over 2,000 years! Next door is the cool Torre del Popolo tower from the 13th century. Carceri Hermitage The Carceri Hermitage, or Santuario Eremo delle Carceri, is a peaceful retreat high in the mountains above Assisi, where St. Francis used to meditate. Hidden away in the forest, this sanctuary comprises small stone buildings, chapels, a cloister, and the grotto of St. Francis. A visit lasts 30 to 45 minutes and is free to enter. It's a 15-minute drive from Assisi. This turned out to be the highlight of our trip. Being out in nature, wandering among the trees, you could almost touch the spirit of St. Francis. It was amazing. We stopped in the chapel on our way out, and my partner noticed that a nun sitting across from us was sitting in the pew texting with her volume on. I had to stop him from walking over and yanking her veil! The projections As we strolled through the streets of Assisi on Christmas Eve, we were drawn towards the basilica. As we approached, we heard music. Soon, we were standing in front of a concert of lights and music, as images of the story of Christmas taken from Giotto's and other Renaissance artists' paintings danced on the basilica facade, set to classical music. We were spellbound by its beauty, and we felt deeply moved as we stood there gazing at the Christmas story unfolding before us. Expats I was eager for some English, so I asked at the basilica about a Christmas service in my mother tongue. On Christmas morning, I walked down to the basilica, into the monastery, and found myself inside a brightly lit chapel used by English-speaking expats for Sunday services. The service was peaceful, and the expat community seemed closely knit. Afterward, I stayed and chatted with several of them about how they moved to Assisi and how it was unfolding. It was amazing to hear their stories. Intimate moments: The Tomb For me, THE highlight of Assisi is the tomb of St. Francis. Surrounded by his closest friends, it is the simple tomb of a poor man who is honored through the centuries because of his peace and the love that he exemplified. I walked over to the basilica on Christmas Eve at around 10 pm; the church was open as there would be a midnight mass a little later. I spotted the entrance to the tomb area below; I slipped down and couldn't believe that I was the only person there. I was grateful that I had a quiet, intimate time with the saint of Assisi. Insights: Assisi is a magical place, no matter one's background or belief system. Something in the atmosphere speaks of beauty and peace. I encourage anyone to go there with an open heart. Step 6: Links and sources: https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/finding-peace-and-faith-in-assisi https://www.earthtrekkers.com/best-things-to-do-in-assisi/ More next time. In my book "She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome", I bring the reader into the stories, past and present, that make the city unique. Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/She-Seduced-Me-Love-Affair-ebook/dp/B09885RSZZ/ref=tmm_kin_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&qid=&sr= . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/She-Seduced-Me-Love-Affair/dp/1913680045/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 .

PART 89: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas and towns in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. This week, let's explore Montichiello. Step 2: Our experience Today, we decided to take a break from home renovation (more on that in a future blog) and explore unfamiliar areas of Tuscany. So we hopped in our car, drove towards Pienza, saw a side road with a sign pointing towards the "Medieval Town of Montichiello," and let instinct guide us. Once we exited our car, we realized we had been there before. Years ago, we visited Tuscany for the first time and saw so many towns and villages that they became a blur. This time, we resolved to give Montichiello the time it deserved. Walking through the town gates, it felt like we had entered a children's story. The beautiful cobblestone streets were lined with unique stone buildings that housed shops, restaurants, and apartments. We then walked to one of the main piazzas in town, where a white-bearded elderly man came up to us and welcomed us to his town. He told us he was born there and had lived in Montichiello his entire life. He then asked if I knew who he was. His question perplexed me, and I wondered if we had met the last time we were there. He repeated his question again: "Don't you know who I am?" I smiled and said no. "People say I look like Santa Claus, and children constantly ask to pull on my beard to see if it is real." I looked at him in a new light and realized that, yes, he did look like the classic Santa Claus. At this point, Santa gave us a tour of his beloved town, shared its history, and led us into the main church. Once inside, he explained the meaning of the frescoes, which had been discovered when the church was renovated. He went on to tell us that the town is known for its summer theatrical productions and that he has been involved as an actor for decades. He asked us to look for the documentary "Spettacolo," which recounts the story of this local theater. I will share some of this history here. Step 3: History Monticchiello, a serene town, has a rich history dating back to Etruscan times. The current fortress, built in the 1200s, served as a defense for the Republic of Siena, making it a valuable asset in conflicts with Montepulciano. Later, the Medicis took control of the area, and in 1777, Monticchiello became a part of the district of Pienza where it remains to this day. Despite its peaceful atmosphere now, the history of Monticchiello tells a different story of conflict and strategic importance. During World War II in 1944, there was a conflict between the local partisan fighters and the occupying German forces near Monticchiello. In retaliation to the partisan activities, the German army entered the town to slaughter the residents. However, a fortunate incident occurred when a young German woman, who was married to a local man, was present among the villagers. With the help of the village priest, she persuaded the soldiers to spare the people's lives. As a result, all the citizens of Monticchiello were saved from execution. Step 4: Theater Monticchiello is a place that attracts many visitors, particularly during the summer when the unique Teatro Povero takes place. The Teatro Povero, or Poor Theater, originated in the 1960s during a period of significant change in the local community. At that time, the traditional agricultural practice of share-chopping was diminishing, people were migrating to urban areas for employment, and significant economic and social changes were happening. The theater, which involves producing a play based on a theme of local importance, has been a means of community engagement and self-expression for over 50 years. The local theater group chooses the theme, writes, directs, and acts in the play. Every year, a single play is produced and presented as an outdoor event from July to August. In 2017, a documentary film called "Spettacolo" was released, which beautifully and insightfully tells the story of this unique tradition. Step 5: Cool things Medieval Entrance Upon entering Monticchiello, the first eye-catching feature is the well-preserved city walls encircling the town. Dating back to the 1200s, the walls include a grand tower and a gate with a pointed arch, which serves as the primary entrance to the town. Although the gate was initially constructed to protect the town, it now stands as a charming backdrop to the elegant and high-end restaurant Osteria La Porta. The Pieve dei Santi Leonardo e Cristoforo The Pieve dei Santi Leonardo e Cristoforo is a magnificent Gothic-style church constructed in the latter part of the 13th century. However, in the late 18th century, it underwent a Baroque renovation that whitewashed and plastered the church's incredible 14th-century frescoes. In the 1930s, an incomplete restoration of the interior began with the aim of uncovering the frescoes and restoring some of the original chapels. The church's most exciting feature is its colorful frescoes. One touching fresco depicts St Christopher carrying the baby Jesus on his shoulder. Exploring the streets In addition to the landmarks, the small streets and medieval homes in Monticchiello are also gorgeous. They are now immaculately kept and decorated with flowers and climbers. The views One thing you should not miss when in Monticchiello is the panoramic view just outside the main medieval gate. As you leave the town, the hills of Val d'Orcia roll out before you, offering one of the most quintessentially Tuscan landscapes you could ever wish for! In front of Monticchiello, you can see the hill with Pienza, and from a distance, you can recognize the distinctive shape of Pienza's bastions and duomo. Step 6: Links Teatro Povero: https://teatropovero.it/la-chiesa-propositurale-dei-santi-leonardo-e-cristoforo/ Insights: Getting in the car and exploring by instinct rather than by plan has rewarded us with unexpected discoveries. Today, we burst upon Montichiello and met a resident born in the town who has lived there his whole life. He let us experience "his" Montichiello. More next time. Now on sale for $2.99: My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRKMKPWF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_X2WRQ3PTG2ZDD7AVF6GH Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 66: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I am posting some of the steps we are taking and what we are learning. We live in Puglia in the Summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: As we explore towns in Puglia, we discover some fascinating stories behind what we see. Sometimes, it is a building; other times, it is a piece of art. This week, we will travel to Santa Maria Leuca, or De Finibus Terrae, the end of the land, and explore its stories. Come with us. Step 2: What? The cool thing about S. Maria di Leuca is that it is on the extreme tip of the spur of Italy where the Ionian Sea and the Adriatic Sea meet. One can watch the churning currents of the two seas and sometimes note a diversity of colors in the merging of the waters. Besides the fantastic views and atmosphere, S. Maria di Leuca has an interesting history, legends, and sights. Step 3: History The history of S. Maria di Leuca is a swirl of facts and legends dating back to the Neolithic area. But the area enters western literature in the Aeneid, in the words of Virgil: From the eastern sea, Curving in an arc, The thick foaming waves break Against their opposing rocky masses. Hidden from sight, Sheltered behind its double seawalls, Lies the internal port, From where the hilly land rises Towards the far-off temple. "Leuca" comes from the Greek Leukos, meaning light or luminous, which could refer to the stones of the temple of Minerva that once stood on that spot or the foundations of the current Basilica, consecrated by Pope Julius I on 1st August 343 AD. The legend holds that St. Peter traveled through this area towards Rome, where he gave up his life. The story continues that the columns of the Minerva temple shook and cracked as he passed through. The area took on the term De Finibus Terrae, Latin for "at the ends of the earth." To the Romans, and probably many people who came before them, Santa Maria di Leuca represented the land's end: It is the most extreme point of the Italian peninsula where the Ionian and Adriatic Seas meet. Step 4: Sights Lighthouse The beautiful lighthouse at the edge of the land dates from 1864 and is 47 meters high and 102 meters above sea level. I've never seen it open to visitors, but I have been told by some who got inside that, from the top, one can see the island of Corfu on a clear day. Church As stated above, the Basilica of the Madonna of Leuca, or De Finibus Terrae, originates above the temple of Minerva, previously built on that spot. The first Christian church was consecrated in 343 AD, followed by a 6th-century church; the current structure dates from the 1700s. Older buildings were often filled with rubble in the ancient world, and newer buildings were constructed on top—example, San Clemente in Rome. Hence, the layers of churches at De Finibus. The yearly religious feast is celebrated in the middle of August and consists of a grand procession from the church to the harbor. The procession continues on the water, with illuminated boats carrying the Madonna statue. It is said to be a spectacular sight. The Basilica is simple and beautiful, but I have always been intrigued by a painting in a side chapel at the back. It is of a man floating in the water, with stars around his head. This painting is beautiful and tragic, depicting the drowned John of Nepomuk, who refused to tell King Wenceslaus IV of Bohemia what his wife had confessed. It may seem strange, but the painting is so cool. Panorama "This area is so beautiful, and I bet no Americans know about it!" I blurted out as we gazed over the harbor, the town below, and the intersection of the two seas. "This is AWESOME!" I suddenly heard from behind us. Perfect timing: two American ladies in shorts and t-shirts (just like us) were walking towards the edge. My partner laughed. I made a bee-line towards them and introduced ourselves. "We are here for a wedding, but we didn't want to miss this!" one of the kind ladies said. Note to self: just because I haven't heard of a place doesn't mean nobody else has. But the panorama is beautiful: The whitewashed town The beautiful harbor, with its colossal breakwater blocks The seas to the horizon The lighthouse jutting out Just for the views, it is well worth the drive. Town The town of Santa Maria Leuca is part tourist, part harbor, and part just beautiful. We walked down the main drag to enjoy the views and the beaches. We had a forgettable lunch at a bar/cafe but then explored the peaceful seaside main boulevard while darting into the smaller streets, where we discovered beautiful homes and a calm vibe that added to its beauty. Insights: Beautiful vistas, a long history, and fascinating architecture make Santa Maria Leuca a place not to be missed. Walking from the basilica area to the town is like walking from the heavens to the earth, and I can't help but think that it was meant to be that way. More next time. My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .

PART 65: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: As we explore towns in Puglia, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. Let's explore Martina Franca, about a 90-minute drive from our home this week. We went to Martina Franca on a whim, hopping in our car on a Saturday, ready for a road trip. We visited Martina Franca 6-7 years ago; comparing our first impression of the town with our second visit was enjoyable. Step 2: History. The city of Martina Franca dates from the 10th century AD when refugees from Taranto fled their town in the face of the Saracen invasions. Today, there are about 50,000 residents in Martina Franca; the city is on the edge of Trullo territory. The town's name derives from St. Martin, a 4th-century French saint who used his sword to cut his tunic in two to share it with a beggar. The term "Franca" derives from when the town was granted certain privileges in the middle ages, including tax exemption (franchigia). Step 3: Layout. A protective wall was erected in the Middle Ages, with only four gates and 12 square and 12 round watchtowers. Once inside the gates, the visitor easily gets lost since so many twisting and turning streets branch off in every direction. This layout was purposeful to confuse an invading enemy and to give the townspeople time to evacuate or hide. To faciliate escape, the townspeople developed a secret code in the street design, using black paving stones for streets that led to the gates and white stones for streets inside the labyrinth. Most of the dark stones were replaced, but some can still be found, dating from the Middle Ages. Step 4: Architecture The hill Martina Franca rises on is called San Martina, between the Adriatic and Ionian seas. The town center is filled with beautiful baroque palaces, whitewashed buildings, and cute houses, many dating from the 17th century, along narrow medieval alleys that open up to the countryside, which is peppered with white "trulli" houses. Step 5: Sights. Martina Franca city walls and gates One can discover Martina Franca's medieval and baroque influences in the city walls and gates. Though constructed for protection during the Saracen invasions, today, they embrace and highlight the elegance of the city center. Its four gates are named after four saints: St. Stephen, Peter, Nicholas, and St. Mary. The main gate or entrance is St. Stephen's gate and its baroque decor hints at what the visitor is about to see inside. Ducal palace One of the first sights after St. Stephan's gate is the ducal palace within the beautiful Rome piazza. The palace was built in 1688 on the foundations of a 12th-century castle. There are over 300 rooms decorated with colorful frescos by Domenico Carella. Most painted scenes are of biblical themes or illustrate life in medieval Puglia. Today, the building is used as the town hall and cultural center. Entry is free, but only a small part is open to the public. Basilica of St. Martin The basilica was completed in 1747 on the foundations of a Romanesque church from at least the 1300s. The most impressive parts of the church include the massive facade, which displays intricate carvings depicting the life of St. Martin; the interior is in the form of a cross in which the baroque interior and the more modern stained glass windows seem to complement one another, forming a beautiful, unified whole. Above the altar is a statue of St. Martin, the city's patron. Piazza Maria Immacolata There are many beautiful piazzas in town, but the most amazing is Piazza Maria Immacolata. The piazza is surrounded by semi-circular buildings with shaded porticos, under which are cafes and restaurants. On some weekends, live performances and parades are held in this piazza, and it is a perfect place to people watch. Step 6: Cool things Wandering Martina Franca's whitewashed streets and La Lama Martina Franca is one of Puglia's "white cities" because of its whitewashed buildings in the historic center, especially those in the neighborhood of La Lama, right off the main square. This neighborhood has no main sights, but it is a great place to wander since it is laid out like a maze, offering a surprise at every turn. This section was initially the poorest part of the city since it got little sunlight and was damp during the winter. Today, it is one of the most architecturally interesting areas to explore and get lost in! People watching When we went to Martina Franca the other day, we started to feel tired after all the driving and walking. We found a cafe in one of the squares, ordered coffee, and rested. Soon, we discovered the joy of people-watching in Martina Franca. Germans, Brits, Americans, Italians, Spaniards, and others strolled by under a partly cloudy sky in front of an incredible architectural playground. Our time at this cafe became one of our favorite activities in town! Step 7: Things to remember when visiting We came to Martina Franca in high season (August) on a Saturday and realized parking can be challenging. After driving around the historical center once, we got lucky and found a parking place only a block away. The next time we plan a trip there, we will go on a weekday or outside the high season. Even though there were many tourists in Martina Franca, it wasn't unpleasantly crowded, the streets were immaculate, and the cafes and restaurants were charming. Insights: Martina Franca is one of those towns that one keeps putting off visiting. "Some day, we will make the drive," we said repeatedly. Once there, the phrase one repeats is, "Why didn't we do this sooner?" It is a fantastic place; if one wants to get a taste of Puglia, it should certainly be on one's "must-see" list. More next time. My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .

PART 64: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I am documenting what we are learning along the way. We live in Puglia in the summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: How is our experience of driving in Puglia, or all of Italy for that matter, going? What about getting gas? Is it easy, or are there glitches? In one word, Great. Easy. Well, with a few bumps. Let's go over a few points. Step 2: Manual transmission Before I started driving in Italy, I hadn't driven a manual transmission since high school. But once I discovered how much more it costs to rent an automatic rather than a manual, I dove right in. I had a lot of fears about re-learning how to drive in Italy, and I made a bigger deal out of driving a manual shift than it was. It only took me a few minutes to get used to a manual transmission, which is good practice for traveling through Europe. I suggest diving right in. Step 3: Gas and GPL We were perplexed the first time we rented a car with two gas tanks in Italy. My partner nor I knew of vehicles running on gasoline (benzina) and GPL. But we ended up renting a GPL car anyway, and when we pulled into a gas station marked "GPL," the attendant walked us through it. GPL = liquified petroleum gas (gas di petrolio liquefatto' ) , and is much cheaper, I mean much cheaper, than regular gasoline (benzina). Cars with both tanks first use the GPL and then switch to the standard gas tank. Tips: Keep the GPL tank full so you don't start using the gasoline. You will save lots of money. Look for the GPL sign before pulling in since not all stations carry it. GPL can only be filled by an attendant. If a gas station is automated after hours, you cannot get GPL. Since gas can get very expensive if you take road trips (as we do), renting a GPL car is preferred. Step 4: Paying for gas and the credit card I like the sense of trust I find in many gas stations in Puglia (as well as other areas in Italy); paying after filling up is perfectly acceptable at many stations. How to pay? I like to use my credit card when I travel, so I use a "no foreign transaction fee" card at gas stations. But when I tried to use it to get gas in Italy last summer, I was surprised it wouldn't work at the pump. When I asked the attendant, he said that I needed a pin. I never had a credit card pin before, so I was perplexed. I soon learned that not having a pin could significantly limit my ability to pay in Europe, so I resolved to rectify it. I eventually called my credit card company; I was surprised that the process would take about a week and that the pin would be mailed to my California address, and, no, they would not give it to me over the phone. When we returned to Puglia in the winter, I found that my credit card, with a pin, worked at some gas stations, but at others, it did not. I still haven't solved this mystery, but now I always go on road trips with cash and credit cards, just in case. Step 5: The gas station and costs The cost difference between self and full-serve is pretty significant, so after using full serve for a fill-up or two, we realized we had to get over our fears and do the self serve. We first used stations where an attendant on duty could coach us. If I had a credit card issue, the attendant could usually make it work through his credit card swipe. As far as the cost, gas goes up and down. Currently, gas is about $7.50 per US gallon in our area. Remember that gas is priced per liter in Italy, and 1 US gallon contains about 3.78 liters. Step 6: Traffic signs and rules "Italians don't worry about the rules, so you shouldn't either," was one piece of advice I got. "Just go with the flow of traffic on freeways; they don't ticket for speeding if you do that," was another. "Stops signs and just a suggestion; slow down and roll through," was another. No, no, no! I say. Traffic rules are in place and enforced. Speed limits: There is always a speed trap warning in Puglia, where cameras are present. It may seem strange to warn speeders to slow down in the camera zone, but many speed through anyway. Last year, we drove to Rome from Umbria and found out nearly six months later that we got two speeding tickets. We were going with the traffic flow rather than focussing on the signs. We paid for the tickets and learned our lesson; it wasn't cheap. Speeding is heavily fined and monitored. Stop lights and stop signs: In California, we can turn right at a red light unless otherwise indicated. "No, you will get a fine!" our Puglian friends responded when we asked about doing the same. As far as stop signs, we see some roll through them in our town, but I prefer to interpret "stop" as "stop the car." Step 7: Pedestrians: Although pedestrians have the right of way here in Italy, our experience here in Puglia is not to assume that drivers will stop. Few drivers will stop in our area if a nervous foreigner is standing on the sidewalk, wondering if he/she should step into the crosswalk. My strategy: Step into the crosswalk. Look the oncoming driver in the eyes. Have him/her an excellent thumbs up when they stop and let me pass. Step 8: Car break downs: We have not had the misfortune of a car breakdown in Italy, so I have no unique insights here. But when we rent our car, we always gather that information so, in case it does happen, we do not end up on some dark road at night not knowing who to call. Step 9: Parking rules: The color of the lines painted on the side of a street often indicates what type of parking is available. Some general guidelines for our area in Puglia: Blue lines: paid parking. Look for the payment station. White lines usually mean free parking, but there are situations where it means resident parking. Check the signs; if it is residents only, it will be indicated. Yellow lines: you need permission to use the space, like a taxi or handicapped permit. Pink lines: for pregnant or parents with infants. I have yet to see these in person. Green lines: electric charging parking only. No lines; it could mean free parking, but read the signs. If I am uncertain, I ask a kind-looking person nearby. Timed free parking: some zones are marked "60-minute parking" or another time window. To use this space, you must display that plastic clock image on your windshield with the clock hands turned to the time you pulled into that spot. This plastic clock enables the police patrol to know who is within the designated limits. We purchased ours at our local tobacco store. The parking apps: I've downloaded a few apps that were listed in areas we tried to park in but have never been able to make them work. My credit card wasn't accepted, or my information could not be processed. If you have any insight into Italian parking apps, please share. Step 10: Traffic and Google Maps: Google Maps can be a blessing and a curse. We rely on it while driving through Puglia, but the minute we get into a tight area with winding roads, it goes bonkers. We were trying to leave the Assisi area once, and Google Maps led us up into the old city, down a street that was one way (the wrong direction), and tried to make us make a right turn down some steep stairs. In Puglia, we followed Google Maps to our friend's house last night when it suddenly changed directions. They live in a small town in a somewhat rural area. We had to stop the car several times, reload the maps, and then read the directions to look for street signs. We eventually got there, but it was confusing. On the positive side, Google Maps has enabled us to discover incredible areas and coastal drives that we would have never known otherwise. Step 11: ZTL zones. The ZTLs are restricted circulation zones in Italian cities with historic centers. Only the residents and registered vehicles are authorized to drive there. Often, ZTL zones have signs that are turned on or off, depending on whether the restrictions are in place. Do NOT take any chances here; there are huge fines for driving in a ZTL zone when it is turned on. Insights: Driving in Italy is like learning a new sport; you can have fun once you get the hang of the rules and practices. Getting over the fear is the first step. The second is to be a respectful driver; just because someone else drives like a jerk doesn't mean I have to react or be one. The third point is to remember that living in Italy is an adventure, and being comfortable driving here is part of the experience. More next time. My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .