PART 124: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems that are worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week let's explore traveling to France from Tuscany. Step 2: Why When we first discussed moving to Italy after I retired from teaching, my partner expressed a desire for a place that we could use as a base for exploring Europe. Initially, we settled in Puglia, but traveling by car or train to other countries proved challenging due to the geography. The closest airport, Bari, was two hours away, and we relied on it to fly to destinations like Hungary for our European explorations. Wanting Europe to be more accessible, we eventually moved to Tuscany, specifically the Monte Amiata region, for various reasons (which I have explained in a previous blog). After purchasing our house in February and completing the renovations a few weeks ago, we were finally ready for our first road trip—to the south of France. France seemed the logical choice for our first road trip since we could cross the border in about five hours and reach Nice in six. Since we both wanted to visit Lourdes, we decided on a circular route: Nice-Lourdes-Nice-Monaco-Rapallo-Home. We set aside a week for the trip and set off. Step 3: How We were both surprised at how easy the road trip between our town, Arcidosso, and Nice was. Taking scenic highways for most of the journey made the hours pass quickly. Watching the Italian and French coastlines, observing the changes in architecture and vegetation, and experiencing a sense of adventure along the way made the drive an integral part of our international experience. We arrived in Nice to beautiful weather, making this part of France live up to its name. We only stayed for one night, as we planned to drive to Lourdes the following day and return to Nice for a few days the week after. The drive to Lourdes fascinated us by how the countryside transformed from the coast to the Pyrenees mountains. Beaches gave way to mountains, and sandy shores turned into lush forests. It was a fantastic drive, but it took longer than anticipated. We had initially estimated 7.5 hours on the road, but it took us 9 hours due to a traffic jam and an extended stop for a meal. On the return drive, however, we were more efficient and returned to Nice in less than 8 hours. Step 4: What What did we see, do, and experience along the way? Nice Like any larger city, not all of Nice is "nice." That was our first impression when we arrived and promptly got lost in a run-down area of the town. Once our Google Maps started working again, we soon found our hotel near the port, outside the old town area. My second impression of Nice was the view from our window: the gentle waves, the curved coastline, the mansions on the hillside, and the historical buildings along the harbor seemed almost like an illusion. But it was real—we had arrived in the south of France! We walked along the promenade and explored the historical center on our first day. The promenade was beautiful, while the historical center was touristy yet enjoyable. We also popped into several historic churches along the way, which provided a welcome break from the hustle and bustle of the town. When we returned to Nice for a few days after we visited Lourdes, we decided to take one of the scenic roads toward Monaco (Moyenne Corniche), stopping along the way as each view became more and more breathtaking. We pulled off in the village of Eze, which was relatively quiet since it was October. It is a charming village overflowing with awe-inspiring views! We walked up to the botanical garden, which is a must-see. The combination of plants, rocks, sculptures, and the views of the sea below, made every angle a perfect photo opportunity. I did have two issues with Eze: first, it feels like a "museum" town, as it has no permanent residents. Everything has been converted into rentals and shops. Second, while the church is majestic from the outside, it appeared neglected on the inside. Other than that, Eze was absolutely incredible. Impulse stop: Monaco We planned to drive to Monaco, turn around, and take the upper road (Grande Corniche) back to Nice. However, I thought impulsively: "Why don't we stop in Monaco just to see what it's like?" When I asked my partner, he responded, "As long as we avoid the casino." Since I had no interest in that tourist trap, we looked up the nearest parking lot to the palace and old town and set off. I was pleasantly surprised by Monaco. The stunning vistas, the large square in front of the Prince's Palace, the ornate cathedral housing the tombs of Princess Grace and Prince Rainier, and the charming shops made for a fantastic half-day trip. We decided that we would explore the Oceanographic Museum and tour the palace on our next visit. Lourdes Our experience in Lourdes was too significant to be contained in just a few paragraphs, so I will write a separate blog about it. For now, I want to share the valuable advice we received from our priest friend from California: "Ignore the town itself and focus on the basilica area. It's important to be open to what the experience may bring you and to approach it without preconceptions." The town of Lourdes has seen better days and has a somewhat shabby appearance. It is filled with tourist shops selling everything from T-shirts to plastic Madonnas. Surprisingly, the shops didn't bother me; the local residents in this isolated area need to pay their rent, buy food, and keep up with car payments. These shops help support the local economy and cater to the needs and desires of visitors. One important aspect of Lourdes is that each person can have their own unique experience. Some visitors arrive in groups, others come alone; some are ill and hoping for healing, while others are well and searching for meaning. There are religious visitors and those who are not; there are many volunteers and pilgrims. We had our own personal journey in Lourdes, and by visiting, I was able to fulfill my mother's wish to come here when I was a child. When we left Lourdes, I felt a sense of fulfillment and was smiling as if I had completed something important in my life. More details in a future blog. Step 5: Feelings The predominant feeling I experienced in the south of France was gratitude. In Nice, I felt thankful for the stunning landscapes; in Eze, for the incredible drive; in Monaco, for the unexpected adventure; and in Lourdes, for the deep sense of love and fulfillment. Step 6: Again? Would we return to the south of France? Absolutely! Nice serves as a good base, but I wouldn't stay in town for more than a day before exploring further along the Riviera or venturing inland. If I return to Lourdes, it would be to participate in their volunteer program (more on that in a future blog). So, the answer is yes—we both would and will return to this amazing place. Insights: Using our home in Tuscany as a base to explore more of Europe has been part of our dream from the beginning. We recently took our first step by embarking on our first road trip. It was a fantastic experience; we hope it will be the first of many more. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 123: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. This week, let's explore how we manage to control the cost of renting a car for the long term (2-3 months) while living in Italy. Step 2: During our first extended stay in Italy, we followed the advice from several travel forums and decided to lease a car from Renault near the Rome airport (https://www.autoeurope.com/renault-eurodrive/). At that time, it cost us approximately $1,900 for two months, which included a new vehicle, roadside assistance, full insurance, and multiple drivers. While it wasn't cheap, it was still more affordable than a daily rental. We had a great car and faced no worries. However, we noticed that leasing prices skyrocketed; at the writing of this blog I checked the rates, which were over $3,000 for two months for their most economical car. This prompted us to begin exploring other alternatives. (FYI: After posting this blog, I got an email from Renault, stating that their 2025 rates have been lowered. I just checked their rates for when we will be needing a car, and they are comparable to when we first started leasing from them. It is worth checking them out.) Step 3: Many aspects of life in Italy operate smoothly through personal relationships. While living in Puglia, we heard about a company that rents out used cars at low prices. We communicated via WhatsApp instead of through a website and arranged a two-month car rental for our upcoming trip. The company is located not far from Lecce: https://noleggio.lafenicesrl.it/noleggio-auto-usate/14/14/noleggio-auto-usate . Our experience was positive. During the off-season, we found used cars available for rent, including insurance, for as little as 15 euros per day. However, we chose to spend a bit more to get a better vehicle. Pros: Low prices, a local company, and insurance included. Cons: These cars are only for local use and cannot be driven across Italy. For instance, when we traveled to the Amalfi Coast, we rented a new car from a different company for the four days we spent driving along the coast. Step 4: Newest Solution When we moved to Tuscany, our previous car rental service no longer met our needs, so we looked for alternative solutions. I asked a local friend from Rome to accompany me to the Rome train station to gather information from each car rental agency. After collecting details from all the agencies, we found one Italian-based agency that would suit our needs, as they offer monthly rentals during some months of the year. Step 5: Sicily By Car We spoke with Mario, who works at the Sicily By Car desk at the Rome train station, about their monthly car rental options. Here are some important points to keep in mind regarding the monthly car rental: 1. The monthly rate is not available during the high season. You can check their website for specific dates. 2. The monthly rate comes with mileage limits: either 2,500 miles or 4,000 miles per month, depending on the chosen rate. 3. The online rate does not include insurance. More information on this is provided below. 4. For insurance, both employees at the desk advised against purchasing it through the website. Instead, they recommended buying it at the desk. The website offers third-party insurance that requires the driver to pay for any accidents upfront and then seek reimbursement. Make sure to consider these points when planning your rental! Step 6: The link For additional information about this monthly deal, please visit the following link: https://www.sicilybycar.it/en/car-hire/info/monthly-car-rental Step 7: Insurance and rental costs Although the rental car cost on the website was listed as approximately 450 euros per month, additional expenses such as insurance brought the total to around 800 euros per month for the car from Sicily By Car with a 4,000 mile limit, since we were driving long distances during that time. This price is much cheaper than the leasing program we were using and significantly less expensive than a daily rental. Step 8: Drawbacks One drawback for us was the timing of our visit in September. Since we arrived on September 15 and the low season began in October 1, we had to rent a car on a daily basis for two weeks. This increased our expenses significantly. However, we still spent less than we would have if we had leased a car from Renault or other companies. One drawback of the Sicily By Car website is the inconsistency in car availability. Sometimes it displays a wide range of options, while at other times, there are none listed. Occasionally, I can view prices for cars 3 to 6 months in advance, but other times I can only find cars available a month ahead, with no options for later dates. We checked the website two or three times in October to reserve a car for the spring for two months, and on one occasion, it finally allowed us to make a reservation. This approach worked for us in the fall, as the staff at Sicily By Car assured us that starting on October 1, they would have plenty of cars available, and that turned out to be true. When we picked up our car on September 15 (daily rental), they advised us to go on the website and reserve the month-long rental beginning October 1. We had to return to swap cars, but the process went smoothly. In the end, we were also able, with some effort, to reserve a car for the spring for two months. However, we remain uncertain if this will be a permanent solution for us due to the difficulties in securing a car in advance. As we explore more car leasing and rental solutions, I will share additional blog posts. Step 9: Your experience If you have discovered affordable car rental or leasing solutions in Italy, please share them in the comments, and I will look into them. Thank you! I hope that helps! Step 10: Update of May 2025: we just returned from Italy and ended up leasing the car from Renault , as refernced above. The price of leasing with Renault and Sicily-by-car were so close, that we went with Renault . So it is well worth investigating both options for long-term rentals, since Renault’s prices are coming down and Sicily-by-car seems to be marketing their month-long rental options more aggressively. More next time. If you have enjoyed reading about our life in Italy, my memoir goes deeper into where it began. Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy — the memoir of finding our way through the towns, food, and people of the deep south. "This book elevated my trip. Well written and fun." — Amazon reviewer https://a.co/d/0340l3Ak

PART 122: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we are taking and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall and spring, then back again in the Fall, and in California the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. This week, let's explore Charlemagne in Tuscany. Step 2: Some history. Who was Charlemagne? For those of us who struggle to remember the history of Charlemagne from our Western Civ class in college, here's a summary. Charlemagne was a powerful ruler who held significant influence over a large part of Western Europe from 768 to 814. In 771, he became the King of the Franks, a Germanic tribe that lived in present-day Belgium, France, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, and western Germany. Charlemagne was known for his military prowess and engaged in numerous battles and wars during his reign, which allowed him to expand his empire's reach. In 800, Pope Leo III crowned Charlemagne the Holy Roman Emperor, elevating his status to become one of the most influential leaders of his time. As an emperor, Charlemagne played a crucial role in the Carolingian Renaissance, a period of cultural and intellectual revival in Europe. He supported the arts and sciences and promoted education and literacy throughout his empire, laying the groundwork for the development of modern Europe. By his death in 814, Charlemagne's empire had expanded to cover much of Western Europe. His reign is often called the "Carolingian Empire," he is sometimes called the father of Europe due to his significant impact on the continent's history. Charlemagne's legacy continues today, and his contributions to the arts, education, and governance remain influential. Step 3: Charlemagne and Tuscany: Sant'Antimo In a separate blog post, I discuss Charlemagne's connection to Montalcino, but I'll provide a brief summary here. Legend has it that Charlemagne established the abbey of Sant'Antimo after he and his army suffered from the plague while on Monte Amiata. Charlemagne prayed for healing, which was granted. To express his gratitude for this miracle, he had Sant'Antimo built. The original core of the abbey was constructed when the relics of Sant'Antimo of Arezzo, a martyr who died in 352 A.D., were installed. This initial section was built on the remains of a Roman villa, which was believed to have had a healing water fountain, as indicated by an inscription on a piece of stone that reads "Venite et bibite" (come and drink). While returning from Rome in 781, Charlemagne stopped at Sant'Antimo along the Via Francigena. He left his seal on the monastery's foundation, which was still under construction. In 814, a decree from Louis the Pious, Charlemagne's son and successor, bestowed numerous gifts and privileges upon the abbey, officially elevating Sant'Antimo to an imperial abbey and ushering it into its full glory. Today, the abbey is home to a small community of sisters from Mexico and is utilized for religious services as well as for tours and hiking in the surrounding area. If you walk around the church and head towards the abbey pharmacy, you may glimpse the original Carolingian chapel if the door happens to be open. The chapel is located beneath the floor of the current abbey church. Step 4: Charlemagne takes over Tuscany (conquering the Lombard territories) Before Charlemagne: During the Middle Ages, Tuscany was ruled by various groups, including the Germans under Odoacer, the Ostrogoths, the Eastern Empire through Narses, and the Lombards following the Fall of the Roman Empire. In 773, Charlemagne, the King of the Franks, invaded the Kingdom of the Lombards, which included all of Italy except for the Duchy of Rome, the Republic of Venice, and the Byzantine possessions in the south. By June 774, the Lombard kingdom had collapsed, and the Franks became the rulers of northern Italy. Charlemagne declared himself the King of the Lombards and was crowned emperor in Rome in 800. As a result, Tuscany became a part of the Frankish Empire during Charlemagne's reign. The Carolingian dynasty continued to rule over Italy until Charles the Fat was deposed in 887, and the dynasty briefly regained the throne in 894-896. Step 5: Traces of Charlemagne Via Francigena The Via Francigena is a historic 2,000-kilometer pilgrimage route from Canterbury to Rome, also known as "the way of the Franks." It follows the path Sigeric, the Archbishop of Canterbury, took in AD 990 on his return journey from Rome after receiving his cloak of office, or pallium, from Pope John XV. The route gained popularity during the Carolingian era after the unification of a significant part of the north of the Italian peninsula under the Holy Roman Empire of Charlemagne. During this time, going on a pilgrimage became an important and widespread practice. San Miniato in Florence During the Carolingian Period in the 8th century, the Holy Roman Empire established a feudal system and designated Florence as a county. According to tradition from the earliest Florentine chronicles, Emperor Charlemagne visited Florence and contributed money and houses for the rebuilding of the original church of San Miniato in memory of his beloved bride Hildegard, who passed away at the age of 26. Siena In the 8th century, Siena began to take shape after being conquered by Charlemagne. The Frankish lords who took over the city married into the existing Sienese nobility and established abbeys that still exist today. One of these abbeys is the Abbey of Sant'Antimo. Step 6: Sources and more information links. https://www.history.com/topics/middle-ages/charlemagne#:~:text=Charlemagne%20was%20a%20medieval%20emperor,the%20Netherlands%20and%20western%20Germany . https://www.montalcinowinetours.com/what-to-see/the-val-dorcia/sant-antimo/ https://www.antimo.it Insights: Exploring the history of the area where we are settling down gives us a sense of appreciation and belonging to a rich and ongoing history. When we visit Sant'Antimo or other places associated with Charlemagne, the hours I spent in my Western Civilization class start to make sense and become relevant. More next time. My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

This is an out-of-sync blog post to celebrate the publishing of my book in Italian! PART 59.5: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the Summer and then back again in the winter. Before the pandemic, I wrote a book about Rome called "She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome." In this work, I gathered some of the past and present stories that make Rome unique. The chapters include encounters with Nero, Augustus, Caravaggio, street performers, expats, and contemporary Romans. The book has done relatively well, having been published by a small UK publishing house (Dixibooks). But I wanted the book to be published in Italian so that those living in this beautiful country could be part of the "love affair with Rome" described in this book. But how? Step 1: Starting point. Dixibooks has been good about seeking out publishers in different language areas; the Rome book was published in Serbian and English. However, the publisher needed help finding contacts in Italy willing to take on this book. I would have to do the footwork. My starting point was confusion: Where do I begin? Who do I know in the Italian publishing world? The answer: nobody. So, I turned to LinkedIn. Step 2: Contacts, Annoyance, and Rewards. I've used LinkedIn in the past to recruit readers for the books I have published in the past. Being an unknown author, one has to start by connecting one-on-one with people, asking that they might read and review the book. Recruiting readers on LinkedIn can be annoying for some since most are on LinkedIn to connect with job contacts or career advancement. But, from all of the social media apps I have used, I have been most successful on LinkedIn in finding some interest in my books, especially the one about Rome. One must have a thick skin when putting oneself out there; some responses were warm ("I'd love to read your work!" others were angry ("So you come here to peddle your book?") and others seemed like scams ("Sure, I'd love to review your book. Let's talk about fees.”). I love writing but hate marketing, but there is just no way around it if one is trying to build their own readers base. So I jumped in, didn't respond to rude contacts, and am still building a base of interested readers. While searching for readers, I found an Italian publisher interested in my Rome book. Step 3: Copyrights and translations. One of the disadvantages of having a publisher (as opposed to self-publishing) is the contract's web of legal and financial obligations. For example, if I find a foreign publisher, there has to be a contract and financial agreement between the original English publisher and the translation publisher. I didn't yet have a clear understanding of these challenges. Step 4: Visiting Alpes Libri in Rome. Trying to accomplish something in Italy face to face rather than through phone calls or emails is much more effective. I gave the publisher the dates I would be in Rome, and we agreed on when to stop by. Step 5: This was easy! The staff at Alpes was/is interested, open, and professional. After discussing the book translation and contract with Dixi would involve, I set out to put the two publishing houses together to negotiate terms. I also agreed that I would find a translator for the book. Step 6: Where can I find a legitimate translator? There are offers for translation work all over the internet, but I needed to figure out where to start, who to trust, and the costs involved. However, after a few starts and stops, I again turned to LinkedIn. It was providential that an Italian professor from Southern California contacted me and asked about translating the book. She was already using the English version of the book in her classroom and thought that an Italian translation could benefit students and others. Step 7: Relationships. One great lesson of our time living in Italy is that, in the end, it is relationships that matter. A collaborative relationship sprung up between the translator, Alpes, and myself, in which we worked online and in person to craft a translation that would focus on transmitting meaning rather than just words. This was a long and sometimes challenging process; we went through several revisions to capture what each chapter, story, and dialogue was trying to convey. Step 8: The result. The result of this translation journey is the Italian publishing of "Lei mi ha sedotto: Una storia d'amore con Roma." I am happy that some of the stories that make Rome unique are now accessible to the Italian-speaking world. It was an arduous journey, but worth it. More next time. SECOND EDITION NOW ON SALE FOR $2.99!  “She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome.” https://a.co/d/4Bx0Eh3 .  Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 90: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we are taking and what we are learning along the way. We are loving every minute of it, and what was once a dream is now our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall and then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore towns in Italy, we are discovering some gems that are worth sharing. Some of these are well known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. This week, let's explore Assisi in Umbria. Step 2: Our visit Spending Christmas in Italy can be both rewarding and tough. It's rewarding because Italy has unique ways of celebrating the holiday, which are quite different from those in Southern California. However, it can also be tough because our family is far away, and our local friends are occupied with their own celebrations. To overcome the challenge, we have decided to meet up with our friends from Puglia and Rome after Christmas. Meanwhile, we planned to spend the holiday itself in Assisi. Step 3: History Assisi, a town founded by the Umbrians around 1000 BC, was conquered by the Etruscans about 500 years later, and then it was taken over by the Romans after the Battle of Sentinum in 295 BC. It became a part of the Duchy of Spoleto during the early Middle Ages. In the 12th century, it became an independent Ghibelline commune and had a lot of battles with Guelph Perugia until it was annexed to the Papal States in the 16th century. Francis, born in 1182 in Assisi, was a carefree young man who dreamed of becoming a knight. After being captured and imprisoned for a year, Francis returned home as a broken man. He decided to go to war again but had a vision telling him to return home. This was a turning point in his life. Francis began to beg for stones and repaired the chapel of San Damiano with his own hands. Francis then went to live among lepers and ministered to them, realizing that he and the poor were building the kingdom of God. He expanded his brother's/followers' ministry beyond Assisi and even went on missionary journeys preaching conversion and forgiveness. Francis also tried to be a peacemaker between Christians and Muslims during the Fifth Crusade. He revered all created things and had a harmonious relationship with animals and nature. The remains of St. Francis and St. Clare were discovered in 1818 and 1850, making Assisi one of the most important pilgrimage destinations in Italy and the world. However, what's less known is that during World War II, Assisi played a crucial role in hosting over 300 Jewish refugees from September 1943 through June 1944. These refugees were disguised as friars and nuns and hidden in underground basements. Thanks to the bravery and sacrifices of the locals, the local refugees were never deported to Nazi concentration camps. Step 4: Assisi and Francis and Clare If anyone tells me that they are planning a visit to Assisi, I always recommend that they watch the movie starring Mickey Rourke first: https://youtu.be/18rO843lZvM?si=oM_Dfc0iA49sKZb9 . Whether someone is religious or not, having a basic understanding of the history of St. Francis and Clare can provide a better context to what they see and experience in Assisi. The video shared above provides an objective view of the lives of these two figures without being overly preachy. Step 5: Sights. Basilica of St. Francis The church was built between 1228 and 1253 and has three parts: the upper basilica, the lower basilica, and the saint's tomb. In the lower basilica, Giotto, a follower of St. Francis, painted a fresco of the Crucifixion that was considered revolutionary because it was so realistic and showed holy people expressing emotions. The saint's tomb is located beneath the lower basilica and is beautifully simple, just like the saint's message. Basilica of St. Clare The Basilica di Santa Chiara, also known as the Basilica of St. Clare, was constructed in the Gothic style during the 13th century, shortly after St. Clare's death. St. Clare was one of the first devotees of St. Francis and established the Order of Poor Clares, a religious order for women in the Franciscan tradition. The remains of St. Clare are preserved in the crypt within the basilica. The Chapel of San Giorgio houses the Crucifix, which is believed to have spoken to St. Francis. This cathedral is a stunning architectural masterpiece. It features three flying buttresses that run along one side of the church. Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli The basilica was built in the 16th and 17th centuries and houses the "Porziuncola" chapel, where St. Francis began to understand his mission to return to the origins of Christianity and to teach by example rather than just words. St. Francis passed away in the Chapel of the Transitus here. The basilica also has the Courtyard of the Roses, Rose Garden, and Chapel of the Roses. The Ancient Friary on the upper floor served as living quarters for the first friars. Church of St. Damian The Church of St. Damian, also known as the Convento di San Damiano, is an ancient church that dates back to the 8th century. During St. Francis's time, the church was in disrepair. While praying at the church, Francis heard a voice through the Crucifix to repair his house. He understood this to mean the Church of St. Damian and began renovating it with his own hands, but later, he realized that "house" referred to more than repairing a building. Subsequently, St. Clare established the Order of Poor Clares here, and just before his death, St. Francis wrote the Canticle of the Creatures on this spot. Step 6: Cool things. Strolling Via San Francesco is the road that connects Piazza Del Comune with the St. Francis Basilica. It is lined with small stone buildings, housing boutique shops that sell food, souvenirs, and religious artifacts. It is a cool walk that crosses the historical town. Ristorante Bar San Francesco This is where we had breakfast every morning. It has great food and coffee, views, and a unique atmosphere. We met an expat from Texas who moved to Assisi after he turned 80. He said it was the best decision he ever made. Piazza del Comune Assisi's main square is a must-visit spot for anyone exploring the city! Piazza del Comune is a large, open area surrounded by some of the area's most historic and significant buildings. You'll definitely want to check out the Temple of Minerva, the oldest building on the square and dates back over 2,000 years! Next door is the cool Torre del Popolo tower from the 13th century. Carceri Hermitage The Carceri Hermitage, or Santuario Eremo delle Carceri, is a peaceful retreat high in the mountains above Assisi, where St. Francis used to meditate. Hidden away in the forest, this sanctuary comprises small stone buildings, chapels, a cloister, and the grotto of St. Francis. A visit lasts 30 to 45 minutes and is free to enter. It's a 15-minute drive from Assisi. This turned out to be the highlight of our trip. Being out in nature, wandering among the trees, you could almost touch the spirit of St. Francis. It was amazing. We stopped in the chapel on our way out, and my partner noticed that a nun sitting across from us was sitting in the pew texting with her volume on. I had to stop him from walking over and yanking her veil! The projections As we strolled through the streets of Assisi on Christmas Eve, we were drawn towards the basilica. As we approached, we heard music. Soon, we were standing in front of a concert of lights and music, as images of the story of Christmas taken from Giotto's and other Renaissance artists' paintings danced on the basilica facade, set to classical music. We were spellbound by its beauty, and we felt deeply moved as we stood there gazing at the Christmas story unfolding before us. Expats I was eager for some English, so I asked at the basilica about a Christmas service in my mother tongue. On Christmas morning, I walked down to the basilica, into the monastery, and found myself inside a brightly lit chapel used by English-speaking expats for Sunday services. The service was peaceful, and the expat community seemed closely knit. Afterward, I stayed and chatted with several of them about how they moved to Assisi and how it was unfolding. It was amazing to hear their stories. Intimate moments: The Tomb For me, THE highlight of Assisi is the tomb of St. Francis. Surrounded by his closest friends, it is the simple tomb of a poor man who is honored through the centuries because of his peace and the love that he exemplified. I walked over to the basilica on Christmas Eve at around 10 pm; the church was open as there would be a midnight mass a little later. I spotted the entrance to the tomb area below; I slipped down and couldn't believe that I was the only person there. I was grateful that I had a quiet, intimate time with the saint of Assisi. Insights: Assisi is a magical place, no matter one's background or belief system. Something in the atmosphere speaks of beauty and peace. I encourage anyone to go there with an open heart. Step 6: Links and sources: https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/finding-peace-and-faith-in-assisi https://www.earthtrekkers.com/best-things-to-do-in-assisi/ More next time. In my book "She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome", I bring the reader into the stories, past and present, that make the city unique. Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/She-Seduced-Me-Love-Affair-ebook/dp/B09885RSZZ/ref=tmm_kin_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&qid=&sr= . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/She-Seduced-Me-Love-Affair/dp/1913680045/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 .

PART 89: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas and towns in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. This week, let's explore Montichiello. Step 2: Our experience Today, we decided to take a break from home renovation (more on that in a future blog) and explore unfamiliar areas of Tuscany. So we hopped in our car, drove towards Pienza, saw a side road with a sign pointing towards the "Medieval Town of Montichiello," and let instinct guide us. Once we exited our car, we realized we had been there before. Years ago, we visited Tuscany for the first time and saw so many towns and villages that they became a blur. This time, we resolved to give Montichiello the time it deserved. Walking through the town gates, it felt like we had entered a children's story. The beautiful cobblestone streets were lined with unique stone buildings that housed shops, restaurants, and apartments. We then walked to one of the main piazzas in town, where a white-bearded elderly man came up to us and welcomed us to his town. He told us he was born there and had lived in Montichiello his entire life. He then asked if I knew who he was. His question perplexed me, and I wondered if we had met the last time we were there. He repeated his question again: "Don't you know who I am?" I smiled and said no. "People say I look like Santa Claus, and children constantly ask to pull on my beard to see if it is real." I looked at him in a new light and realized that, yes, he did look like the classic Santa Claus. At this point, Santa gave us a tour of his beloved town, shared its history, and led us into the main church. Once inside, he explained the meaning of the frescoes, which had been discovered when the church was renovated. He went on to tell us that the town is known for its summer theatrical productions and that he has been involved as an actor for decades. He asked us to look for the documentary "Spettacolo," which recounts the story of this local theater. I will share some of this history here. Step 3: History Monticchiello, a serene town, has a rich history dating back to Etruscan times. The current fortress, built in the 1200s, served as a defense for the Republic of Siena, making it a valuable asset in conflicts with Montepulciano. Later, the Medicis took control of the area, and in 1777, Monticchiello became a part of the district of Pienza where it remains to this day. Despite its peaceful atmosphere now, the history of Monticchiello tells a different story of conflict and strategic importance. During World War II in 1944, there was a conflict between the local partisan fighters and the occupying German forces near Monticchiello. In retaliation to the partisan activities, the German army entered the town to slaughter the residents. However, a fortunate incident occurred when a young German woman, who was married to a local man, was present among the villagers. With the help of the village priest, she persuaded the soldiers to spare the people's lives. As a result, all the citizens of Monticchiello were saved from execution. Step 4: Theater Monticchiello is a place that attracts many visitors, particularly during the summer when the unique Teatro Povero takes place. The Teatro Povero, or Poor Theater, originated in the 1960s during a period of significant change in the local community. At that time, the traditional agricultural practice of share-chopping was diminishing, people were migrating to urban areas for employment, and significant economic and social changes were happening. The theater, which involves producing a play based on a theme of local importance, has been a means of community engagement and self-expression for over 50 years. The local theater group chooses the theme, writes, directs, and acts in the play. Every year, a single play is produced and presented as an outdoor event from July to August. In 2017, a documentary film called "Spettacolo" was released, which beautifully and insightfully tells the story of this unique tradition. Step 5: Cool things Medieval Entrance Upon entering Monticchiello, the first eye-catching feature is the well-preserved city walls encircling the town. Dating back to the 1200s, the walls include a grand tower and a gate with a pointed arch, which serves as the primary entrance to the town. Although the gate was initially constructed to protect the town, it now stands as a charming backdrop to the elegant and high-end restaurant Osteria La Porta. The Pieve dei Santi Leonardo e Cristoforo The Pieve dei Santi Leonardo e Cristoforo is a magnificent Gothic-style church constructed in the latter part of the 13th century. However, in the late 18th century, it underwent a Baroque renovation that whitewashed and plastered the church's incredible 14th-century frescoes. In the 1930s, an incomplete restoration of the interior began with the aim of uncovering the frescoes and restoring some of the original chapels. The church's most exciting feature is its colorful frescoes. One touching fresco depicts St Christopher carrying the baby Jesus on his shoulder. Exploring the streets In addition to the landmarks, the small streets and medieval homes in Monticchiello are also gorgeous. They are now immaculately kept and decorated with flowers and climbers. The views One thing you should not miss when in Monticchiello is the panoramic view just outside the main medieval gate. As you leave the town, the hills of Val d'Orcia roll out before you, offering one of the most quintessentially Tuscan landscapes you could ever wish for! In front of Monticchiello, you can see the hill with Pienza, and from a distance, you can recognize the distinctive shape of Pienza's bastions and duomo. Step 6: Links Teatro Povero: https://teatropovero.it/la-chiesa-propositurale-dei-santi-leonardo-e-cristoforo/ Insights: Getting in the car and exploring by instinct rather than by plan has rewarded us with unexpected discoveries. Today, we burst upon Montichiello and met a resident born in the town who has lived there his whole life. He let us experience "his" Montichiello. More next time. Now on sale for $2.99: My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRKMKPWF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_X2WRQ3PTG2ZDD7AVF6GH Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 88: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas and towns in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. This week, let's explore an abbey dating from 1319. Step 2: History The Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore, located in Tuscany, is a Benedictine monastery founded in 1319 by three Senese noblemen who decided to embrace the Benedictine way of life. The monastery comprises different buildings from the 1300s to the 1700s and is built around three cloisters of various sizes. The Great Cloister is home to frescoes of the Life of St. Benedict, painted by Luca Signorelli and Giovanni Bazzi (Il Sodoma). The church, which dates back to the 1400s, showcases artworks by Il Sodoma and a magnificent wooden inlaid choir by Giovanni da Verona. The Middle and Small Cloisters are currently not open to visitors. However, the Monastic Library houses around 40,000 volumes and is accessible via stairs decorated with frescoes by Sodoma. The church is designed like a Latin cross and was renovated in the Baroque style in 1772. The main attraction is the amazing wooden inlaid choir, which dates from 1505. Behind the main altar is a painting of the Assumption, dating from 1598, and there is also a dramatic 14th-century wooden Crucifix in the Sacrament Chapel. Step 3: Visiting and what not to miss After parking your vehicle, you can reach the Abbey by walking through a fortified medieval building with a square tower and a drawbridge. The entrance to the building features a stunning glazed terracotta Madonna and Child, which is likely a product of the famous Della Robbia family. The building now houses a restaurant and bar with an outside terrace. After leaving the entrance building, you will proceed down a long avenue flanked by cypress trees. About halfway down the avenue, you will find a sizeable 16th-century fish pool, and at the end of the avenue, you will see the Abbey itself. When you visit the Abbey, be sure not to miss the inlaid choir inside the Abbey church. The great cloister's frescoes are the Abbey's real attraction. Thirty-five frescoes cover the entire surface of the four sides of the cloister. These frescoes depict the life of St. Benedict and are considered masterpieces of the Italian Renaissance due to their incredibly vivid colors and rich details. The paintings offer a fascinating look at the life and landscape of the time. Step 4: Our experience I enjoy living monasteries. It makes me feel empty if I visit an abbey or monastery that has been abandoned, even if it is filled with great artwork. So when our local friend informed us that this monastic community had been present at the Abbey since the 1300s and that about 30 monks were in the community who chanted their prayers every day, with their culminating event, the Gregorian Chant Mass, on Sundays, I was excited to go and visit. I was surprised by the vast grounds, the beauty of the woods lining the path to the Abbey, and the peacefulness of the place. When we entered the church, the organ filled the space with incredible music, the monks were preparing for the service, and the fantastic architecture and the inlaid choir stalls were striking. Regarding the Gregorian Chant service, I realized that it is not entertainment. The music developed in the 9th and 10th centuries and is more subtle than "in your face." I had to settle into it and stop my mind from trying to understand the words. Once I allowed myself to be carried by the chant, I was in another world. On that particular day, we had to go to Florence for an errand, so we skipped the cloister frescos. We had seen them a few years before but resolved to return in a few weeks to give them the focus they deserve. When we walked out of the church, the first thing I said to my partner was: "What do you think if we would come here once a month?" It was that type of experience; it keeps drawing you back. Step 5: Cool things The pharmacy The monastery pharmacy continues its tradition of preparing herbal remedies for body health. One of the liqueurs available at the pharmacy is La Flora di Monte Oliveto, a blend of 23 herbs that have been infused for more than six months according to the recipe of the ancient pharmacy of the Abbey. Wine cellar In the upper courtyard, on the side of the church, there is a shop that sells souvenirs and products from the Abbey's farm. Try the herbal liqueur, which is believed to have curative properties. It's highly recommended that you visit the wine cellar located below the cloister. Here, you can witness giant wine barrels containing wine produced from selected vineyards in the surrounding area and taste the wines with the guidance of an expert. The guest house According to the thousand-year-old Benedictine tradition, the monks at Oliveto provide accommodation at their guesthouse next to the abbey church. The guesthouse has twenty-five rooms and is modern, clean, and inviting. The restaurant/cafe A historic restaurant run by the Giustarini family is located at the main entrance of the Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore. The family specializes in Tuscan cuisine. You can savor a variety of delicious dishes such as ribollita, croutons, cold cuts, cheeses (including the authentic Tuscan pecorino), and flavorful meats. The restaurant's atmosphere is warm and welcoming, making you feel right at home. On sunny days and during summer, you can enjoy your meal at the outdoor tables under the umbrellas. The evening atmosphere resembles the past, with flavors, sounds, and lights transporting you back in time. The land The monastery today is surrounded by picturesque countryside, which boasts cultivated fields, vineyards, olive trees, and woods. The monks residing here have been engaged in agriculture since the 1300s and have produced various products such as olive oil, wines, cereals, and liquors. These products are available at the monastery itself or can be purchased online. The monks generate their income through these activities. The drive to Florence After attending the Sunday service, we had to go to Tecnomat in Florence. So, we put on our GPS and started driving through the rolling hills. I am mentioning the drive because as soon as we left the monastery grounds, it felt like we were driving through some fantasy land for the next hour or so. The rolling green hills and stone houses looked like something out of a dream. We were so enchanted by the beauty of the place that we decided to take our visitors on the same drive after a visit to the Abbey. Step 6: Link https://www.monteolivetomaggiore.it Insights: Experiencing a living monastery is more than touring an ancient series of buildings representing something from the past. Visiting the Abbey of Monte Oliveto was like stepping into another world that still exists today, being renewed by it, and returning to daily life. As we drove through the hills to Tecnomat outside Florence, we knew we would revisit the Abbey because the experience was too beautiful to be had only once. More next time. If you enjoy history told through a good story, my novel takes you back to fourth-century Rome. I Am John, I Am Paul: A historical novel of two Roman soldiers whose bond outlives the empire they serve. "Low-key but very believable humanity. Recommended." — Historical Novel Society https://www.amazon.com/John-Paul-Story-Soldiers-Ancient/dp/B0DDRTXYX7

PART 83: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way. We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. This week, let's explore the Knights Templar in the Monte Amiata area of Tuscany. Step 2: Who were the Templars? The Knights Templar was a military order in the Middle Agrs that followed a monastic lifestyle and was trained in combat to protect Christian holy sites and pilgrims in the Middle East and other places. They were a significant and elite part of the Crusader armies, with their headquarters first in Jerusalem and then in Acre, near Haifa in Israel. The Order was founded in 1118 and "stopped functioning" in 1312. They were actually suppressed because of others' jealousy and greed, but that is another story. Step 3: History of Templars in Tuscany Tuscany was one of the wealthiest and most advanced economies in western Christendom, and the trade routes between East and West passed through it, as did the pilgrimage routes to Rome and the Adriatic ports for embarkation to the East. From receiving their first donation in Tuscany in 1138, the Knights Templar built an impressive network of receiving houses connecting the cities of Florence, Siena, Pisa, and the coast. Maremma region in Tuscany Routes to Maremma's hills and the coast from Florence to Poggibonsi and San Gimignano converged with those from Siena at Frossini, north of Massa Marittima. There are eleven verified Templar buildings in Tuscany, four of which are in the Maremma Grossetana area: the Church of Mercy in Grosseto, the Magione of San Salvatore in Grosseto, the Pieve di Santa Cristina and Ospedaletto in Rochette Fazio, and the Pieve Santa Mustiola at Sticciano. Numerous places in Maremma and greater Tuscany are believed to have a connection to the Templars. Local legends and the symbolism that can still be seen today on doors and walls strongly suggest this connection, but there is no solid evidence for many of the sites. Step 4: The Templars and the Maremma The Templars exact location in Maremma is not well documented as they were exempted from paying taxes by Pope Innocent II; thus, their presence is not found in administrative documents. However, as stated above, various symbols can be attributed to the Templars along the main communication routes of that time. These symbols provided reference points for pilgrims, who could receive the message that they were safe and protected and on the right path. Some of the places in Maremma where these symbols can be found include San Rabano in Alberese, San Martino in Magliano, S. Pietro e Paolo in Sovana, the village of Rocchette di Fazio, S. Salvatore in Istia, and throughout Arcidosso. Step 5: Templar symbolism found in the area The primary emblem of the Order of the Temple was the Patent Cross, which had arms that widened at the ends and was used to identify the Templar members. The word ""patent"" comes from the Latin ""patentem,"" which means enlarged. In addition to the Patent Cross, the Templars used various symbols to allude to their mission and beliefs. These symbols can be found throughout the village of Arcidosso and in its parish church. Step 6: The Templars and Arcidosso (our town!) Arcidosso is a village situated on Mount Amiata connected to the Knights Templar. The town is rich in symbols frequently used by the Order of Soldier Monks. Around the year 1000, Arcidosso was ruled by the Aldobrandeschi family, one of the most powerful families of the Middle Ages. During that time, the Maremma territory, like much of Europe, was perilous due to the presence of pirates and bandits. Hence, it was crucial to protect both the population and the pilgrims traveling to the Holy Land. To achieve this, the Templars were established to safeguard the roads the pilgrims used. Initially, the Order consisted of a few knights known as ""Poor companions in arms of Christ and of the Temple of Solomon."" Later, the Templar Order grew, and their protection was extended to the major routes used by pilgrims, such as the Via Francigena and through the town of Arcidosso. Step 7: Hunting for Templar Symbols in Arcidosso Taking a stroll through Arcidosso village, one cannot miss the mysterious Templar symbols on buildings, the castle, and churches like San Leonardo. Church of San Leonardo The Church of San Leonardo is situated in a medieval square, the convergence point of several alleys. On the church's left side is a rectory displaying the coat of arms of the Abbey of San Salvatore. Beside the rectory was a hostel that used to provide pilgrims refuge. The original door is located on the short side of the building, beneath the arch. Even though it is blocked up, the arch of the door bears the symbol of the Agnus Dei (a lamb with a cross), representing Christ. On the right side of the supporting column of the entrance portal of the church, at the height of a person's face, you can see the patent Templar cross. In an alley behind the church, on a cornerstone of the wall, underneath the electrical wires, there is an inscription, believed to be from the 16th century, that contains several alchemical symbols, such as a circle with a point, which represents the sun, and a triangle with the points downwards, which represents water. On the jamb of a window, on the other side of the same building, there is the symbol of a fish and a patent cross. There seems to be a convergence of Templar and alchemical symbols in Arcidosso. Via Talassese and Clock Tower Via Talassese is one of the main streets in the village. Several shops lined the road, as indicated by symbols on the buildings. For instance, a horseshoe can be seen above a former blacksmith shop. On the arch of a window on this street, you can see a circle with rays, an alchemical symbol of the sun. In 1200, the Aldobrandeschi constructed Porta di Mezzo as an entrance to Via Talassese. Later, Porta di Mezzo was remodeled during the rule of the Republic of Siena with the addition of the clock tower. Palazzo Giovannini, the home of one of the families closely associated with the Medici, is located near Porta di Mezzo, or Clock Tower, along Via Talassese. The portal was added in the style of a diamond-pointed symbol to add prestige to this family's important building. A particularly significant alchemical symbol can be seen in the stone coat of arms at the corner of the building: a seven-pointed star or the heptagram. The heptagram on the Palazzo Giovannini The heptagram represents Venus in cosmology. However, the number seven is also seen as the number of perfection and the number of life, where matter meets spirit. It is also the alchemical number of the seven elements (air, fire, water, earth, life, light, and magic) and the seven planets (sun, moon, Mars, Mercury, Jupiter, Venus, and Saturn). Seven is also a significant biblical number. The significance of the heptagram here is still under debate, as are many other Templar images found in the area. The intriguing open question is: why is there a convergence of Templar and alchemical symbols throughout the town of Arcidosso? (That could be a great topic for somebody's dissertation!) Step 8: Sources: https://persaperilmondo.com/arcidosso-e-templari/. World History Encyclopedia. Insights: Uncovering proof of the existence of the Knights Templar in Tuscany sounds like a chapter straight out of "The Da Vinci Code." However, the focus here is on historical facts rather than fiction. Regardless of one's personal beliefs about the Templars, they were an intriguing society of the past whose remnants still exist today for curious individuals to discover. Their symbols and legacy continue to be researched and debated by scholars and enthusiasts alike. More next time. If you enjoy history told through a good story, my novel takes you back to fourth-century Rome. I Am John, I Am Paul: A historical novel of two Roman soldiers whose bond outlives the empire they serve. "Low-key but very believable humanity. Recommended." — Historical Novel Society https://www.amazon.com/John-Paul-Story-Soldiers-Ancient/dp/B0DDRTXYX7

PART 66: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I am posting some of the steps we are taking and what we are learning. We live in Puglia in the Summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: As we explore towns in Puglia, we discover some fascinating stories behind what we see. Sometimes, it is a building; other times, it is a piece of art. This week, we will travel to Santa Maria Leuca, or De Finibus Terrae, the end of the land, and explore its stories. Come with us. Step 2: What? The cool thing about S. Maria di Leuca is that it is on the extreme tip of the spur of Italy where the Ionian Sea and the Adriatic Sea meet. One can watch the churning currents of the two seas and sometimes note a diversity of colors in the merging of the waters. Besides the fantastic views and atmosphere, S. Maria di Leuca has an interesting history, legends, and sights. Step 3: History The history of S. Maria di Leuca is a swirl of facts and legends dating back to the Neolithic area. But the area enters western literature in the Aeneid, in the words of Virgil: From the eastern sea, Curving in an arc, The thick foaming waves break Against their opposing rocky masses. Hidden from sight, Sheltered behind its double seawalls, Lies the internal port, From where the hilly land rises Towards the far-off temple. "Leuca" comes from the Greek Leukos, meaning light or luminous, which could refer to the stones of the temple of Minerva that once stood on that spot or the foundations of the current Basilica, consecrated by Pope Julius I on 1st August 343 AD. The legend holds that St. Peter traveled through this area towards Rome, where he gave up his life. The story continues that the columns of the Minerva temple shook and cracked as he passed through. The area took on the term De Finibus Terrae, Latin for "at the ends of the earth." To the Romans, and probably many people who came before them, Santa Maria di Leuca represented the land's end: It is the most extreme point of the Italian peninsula where the Ionian and Adriatic Seas meet. Step 4: Sights Lighthouse The beautiful lighthouse at the edge of the land dates from 1864 and is 47 meters high and 102 meters above sea level. I've never seen it open to visitors, but I have been told by some who got inside that, from the top, one can see the island of Corfu on a clear day. Church As stated above, the Basilica of the Madonna of Leuca, or De Finibus Terrae, originates above the temple of Minerva, previously built on that spot. The first Christian church was consecrated in 343 AD, followed by a 6th-century church; the current structure dates from the 1700s. Older buildings were often filled with rubble in the ancient world, and newer buildings were constructed on top—example, San Clemente in Rome. Hence, the layers of churches at De Finibus. The yearly religious feast is celebrated in the middle of August and consists of a grand procession from the church to the harbor. The procession continues on the water, with illuminated boats carrying the Madonna statue. It is said to be a spectacular sight. The Basilica is simple and beautiful, but I have always been intrigued by a painting in a side chapel at the back. It is of a man floating in the water, with stars around his head. This painting is beautiful and tragic, depicting the drowned John of Nepomuk, who refused to tell King Wenceslaus IV of Bohemia what his wife had confessed. It may seem strange, but the painting is so cool. Panorama "This area is so beautiful, and I bet no Americans know about it!" I blurted out as we gazed over the harbor, the town below, and the intersection of the two seas. "This is AWESOME!" I suddenly heard from behind us. Perfect timing: two American ladies in shorts and t-shirts (just like us) were walking towards the edge. My partner laughed. I made a bee-line towards them and introduced ourselves. "We are here for a wedding, but we didn't want to miss this!" one of the kind ladies said. Note to self: just because I haven't heard of a place doesn't mean nobody else has. But the panorama is beautiful: The whitewashed town The beautiful harbor, with its colossal breakwater blocks The seas to the horizon The lighthouse jutting out Just for the views, it is well worth the drive. Town The town of Santa Maria Leuca is part tourist, part harbor, and part just beautiful. We walked down the main drag to enjoy the views and the beaches. We had a forgettable lunch at a bar/cafe but then explored the peaceful seaside main boulevard while darting into the smaller streets, where we discovered beautiful homes and a calm vibe that added to its beauty. Insights: Beautiful vistas, a long history, and fascinating architecture make Santa Maria Leuca a place not to be missed. Walking from the basilica area to the town is like walking from the heavens to the earth, and I can't help but think that it was meant to be that way. More next time. My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .

PART 65: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: As we explore towns in Puglia, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. Let's explore Martina Franca, about a 90-minute drive from our home this week. We went to Martina Franca on a whim, hopping in our car on a Saturday, ready for a road trip. We visited Martina Franca 6-7 years ago; comparing our first impression of the town with our second visit was enjoyable. Step 2: History. The city of Martina Franca dates from the 10th century AD when refugees from Taranto fled their town in the face of the Saracen invasions. Today, there are about 50,000 residents in Martina Franca; the city is on the edge of Trullo territory. The town's name derives from St. Martin, a 4th-century French saint who used his sword to cut his tunic in two to share it with a beggar. The term "Franca" derives from when the town was granted certain privileges in the middle ages, including tax exemption (franchigia). Step 3: Layout. A protective wall was erected in the Middle Ages, with only four gates and 12 square and 12 round watchtowers. Once inside the gates, the visitor easily gets lost since so many twisting and turning streets branch off in every direction. This layout was purposeful to confuse an invading enemy and to give the townspeople time to evacuate or hide. To faciliate escape, the townspeople developed a secret code in the street design, using black paving stones for streets that led to the gates and white stones for streets inside the labyrinth. Most of the dark stones were replaced, but some can still be found, dating from the Middle Ages. Step 4: Architecture The hill Martina Franca rises on is called San Martina, between the Adriatic and Ionian seas. The town center is filled with beautiful baroque palaces, whitewashed buildings, and cute houses, many dating from the 17th century, along narrow medieval alleys that open up to the countryside, which is peppered with white "trulli" houses. Step 5: Sights. Martina Franca city walls and gates One can discover Martina Franca's medieval and baroque influences in the city walls and gates. Though constructed for protection during the Saracen invasions, today, they embrace and highlight the elegance of the city center. Its four gates are named after four saints: St. Stephen, Peter, Nicholas, and St. Mary. The main gate or entrance is St. Stephen's gate and its baroque decor hints at what the visitor is about to see inside. Ducal palace One of the first sights after St. Stephan's gate is the ducal palace within the beautiful Rome piazza. The palace was built in 1688 on the foundations of a 12th-century castle. There are over 300 rooms decorated with colorful frescos by Domenico Carella. Most painted scenes are of biblical themes or illustrate life in medieval Puglia. Today, the building is used as the town hall and cultural center. Entry is free, but only a small part is open to the public. Basilica of St. Martin The basilica was completed in 1747 on the foundations of a Romanesque church from at least the 1300s. The most impressive parts of the church include the massive facade, which displays intricate carvings depicting the life of St. Martin; the interior is in the form of a cross in which the baroque interior and the more modern stained glass windows seem to complement one another, forming a beautiful, unified whole. Above the altar is a statue of St. Martin, the city's patron. Piazza Maria Immacolata There are many beautiful piazzas in town, but the most amazing is Piazza Maria Immacolata. The piazza is surrounded by semi-circular buildings with shaded porticos, under which are cafes and restaurants. On some weekends, live performances and parades are held in this piazza, and it is a perfect place to people watch. Step 6: Cool things Wandering Martina Franca's whitewashed streets and La Lama Martina Franca is one of Puglia's "white cities" because of its whitewashed buildings in the historic center, especially those in the neighborhood of La Lama, right off the main square. This neighborhood has no main sights, but it is a great place to wander since it is laid out like a maze, offering a surprise at every turn. This section was initially the poorest part of the city since it got little sunlight and was damp during the winter. Today, it is one of the most architecturally interesting areas to explore and get lost in! People watching When we went to Martina Franca the other day, we started to feel tired after all the driving and walking. We found a cafe in one of the squares, ordered coffee, and rested. Soon, we discovered the joy of people-watching in Martina Franca. Germans, Brits, Americans, Italians, Spaniards, and others strolled by under a partly cloudy sky in front of an incredible architectural playground. Our time at this cafe became one of our favorite activities in town! Step 7: Things to remember when visiting We came to Martina Franca in high season (August) on a Saturday and realized parking can be challenging. After driving around the historical center once, we got lucky and found a parking place only a block away. The next time we plan a trip there, we will go on a weekday or outside the high season. Even though there were many tourists in Martina Franca, it wasn't unpleasantly crowded, the streets were immaculate, and the cafes and restaurants were charming. Insights: Martina Franca is one of those towns that one keeps putting off visiting. "Some day, we will make the drive," we said repeatedly. Once there, the phrase one repeats is, "Why didn't we do this sooner?" It is a fantastic place; if one wants to get a taste of Puglia, it should certainly be on one's "must-see" list. More next time. My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .

PART 64: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I am documenting what we are learning along the way. We live in Puglia in the summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: How is our experience of driving in Puglia, or all of Italy for that matter, going? What about getting gas? Is it easy, or are there glitches? In one word, Great. Easy. Well, with a few bumps. Let's go over a few points. Step 2: Manual transmission Before I started driving in Italy, I hadn't driven a manual transmission since high school. But once I discovered how much more it costs to rent an automatic rather than a manual, I dove right in. I had a lot of fears about re-learning how to drive in Italy, and I made a bigger deal out of driving a manual shift than it was. It only took me a few minutes to get used to a manual transmission, which is good practice for traveling through Europe. I suggest diving right in. Step 3: Gas and GPL We were perplexed the first time we rented a car with two gas tanks in Italy. My partner nor I knew of vehicles running on gasoline (benzina) and GPL. But we ended up renting a GPL car anyway, and when we pulled into a gas station marked "GPL," the attendant walked us through it. GPL = liquified petroleum gas (gas di petrolio liquefatto' ) , and is much cheaper, I mean much cheaper, than regular gasoline (benzina). Cars with both tanks first use the GPL and then switch to the standard gas tank. Tips: Keep the GPL tank full so you don't start using the gasoline. You will save lots of money. Look for the GPL sign before pulling in since not all stations carry it. GPL can only be filled by an attendant. If a gas station is automated after hours, you cannot get GPL. Since gas can get very expensive if you take road trips (as we do), renting a GPL car is preferred. Step 4: Paying for gas and the credit card I like the sense of trust I find in many gas stations in Puglia (as well as other areas in Italy); paying after filling up is perfectly acceptable at many stations. How to pay? I like to use my credit card when I travel, so I use a "no foreign transaction fee" card at gas stations. But when I tried to use it to get gas in Italy last summer, I was surprised it wouldn't work at the pump. When I asked the attendant, he said that I needed a pin. I never had a credit card pin before, so I was perplexed. I soon learned that not having a pin could significantly limit my ability to pay in Europe, so I resolved to rectify it. I eventually called my credit card company; I was surprised that the process would take about a week and that the pin would be mailed to my California address, and, no, they would not give it to me over the phone. When we returned to Puglia in the winter, I found that my credit card, with a pin, worked at some gas stations, but at others, it did not. I still haven't solved this mystery, but now I always go on road trips with cash and credit cards, just in case. Step 5: The gas station and costs The cost difference between self and full-serve is pretty significant, so after using full serve for a fill-up or two, we realized we had to get over our fears and do the self serve. We first used stations where an attendant on duty could coach us. If I had a credit card issue, the attendant could usually make it work through his credit card swipe. As far as the cost, gas goes up and down. Currently, gas is about $7.50 per US gallon in our area. Remember that gas is priced per liter in Italy, and 1 US gallon contains about 3.78 liters. Step 6: Traffic signs and rules "Italians don't worry about the rules, so you shouldn't either," was one piece of advice I got. "Just go with the flow of traffic on freeways; they don't ticket for speeding if you do that," was another. "Stops signs and just a suggestion; slow down and roll through," was another. No, no, no! I say. Traffic rules are in place and enforced. Speed limits: There is always a speed trap warning in Puglia, where cameras are present. It may seem strange to warn speeders to slow down in the camera zone, but many speed through anyway. Last year, we drove to Rome from Umbria and found out nearly six months later that we got two speeding tickets. We were going with the traffic flow rather than focussing on the signs. We paid for the tickets and learned our lesson; it wasn't cheap. Speeding is heavily fined and monitored. Stop lights and stop signs: In California, we can turn right at a red light unless otherwise indicated. "No, you will get a fine!" our Puglian friends responded when we asked about doing the same. As far as stop signs, we see some roll through them in our town, but I prefer to interpret "stop" as "stop the car." Step 7: Pedestrians: Although pedestrians have the right of way here in Italy, our experience here in Puglia is not to assume that drivers will stop. Few drivers will stop in our area if a nervous foreigner is standing on the sidewalk, wondering if he/she should step into the crosswalk. My strategy: Step into the crosswalk. Look the oncoming driver in the eyes. Have him/her an excellent thumbs up when they stop and let me pass. Step 8: Car break downs: We have not had the misfortune of a car breakdown in Italy, so I have no unique insights here. But when we rent our car, we always gather that information so, in case it does happen, we do not end up on some dark road at night not knowing who to call. Step 9: Parking rules: The color of the lines painted on the side of a street often indicates what type of parking is available. Some general guidelines for our area in Puglia: Blue lines: paid parking. Look for the payment station. White lines usually mean free parking, but there are situations where it means resident parking. Check the signs; if it is residents only, it will be indicated. Yellow lines: you need permission to use the space, like a taxi or handicapped permit. Pink lines: for pregnant or parents with infants. I have yet to see these in person. Green lines: electric charging parking only. No lines; it could mean free parking, but read the signs. If I am uncertain, I ask a kind-looking person nearby. Timed free parking: some zones are marked "60-minute parking" or another time window. To use this space, you must display that plastic clock image on your windshield with the clock hands turned to the time you pulled into that spot. This plastic clock enables the police patrol to know who is within the designated limits. We purchased ours at our local tobacco store. The parking apps: I've downloaded a few apps that were listed in areas we tried to park in but have never been able to make them work. My credit card wasn't accepted, or my information could not be processed. If you have any insight into Italian parking apps, please share. Step 10: Traffic and Google Maps: Google Maps can be a blessing and a curse. We rely on it while driving through Puglia, but the minute we get into a tight area with winding roads, it goes bonkers. We were trying to leave the Assisi area once, and Google Maps led us up into the old city, down a street that was one way (the wrong direction), and tried to make us make a right turn down some steep stairs. In Puglia, we followed Google Maps to our friend's house last night when it suddenly changed directions. They live in a small town in a somewhat rural area. We had to stop the car several times, reload the maps, and then read the directions to look for street signs. We eventually got there, but it was confusing. On the positive side, Google Maps has enabled us to discover incredible areas and coastal drives that we would have never known otherwise. Step 11: ZTL zones. The ZTLs are restricted circulation zones in Italian cities with historic centers. Only the residents and registered vehicles are authorized to drive there. Often, ZTL zones have signs that are turned on or off, depending on whether the restrictions are in place. Do NOT take any chances here; there are huge fines for driving in a ZTL zone when it is turned on. Insights: Driving in Italy is like learning a new sport; you can have fun once you get the hang of the rules and practices. Getting over the fear is the first step. The second is to be a respectful driver; just because someone else drives like a jerk doesn't mean I have to react or be one. The third point is to remember that living in Italy is an adventure, and being comfortable driving here is part of the experience. More next time. My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .

PART 43: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the Summer and then back again in the winter following the 90/180 guidelines. Step 1: Having a car in Puglia is essential. We use it for errands and to visit incredible places and towns around Lecce. To keep in budget, we are renting a used car for the months we are living in Puglia. In February, our local Puglian friends suggested we take a more extended road trip to Amalfi from Lecce, Puglia. At first, we hesitated because of having other things on our plate, but our local friends insisted that March would be an ideal time before the tourists start arriving in April. Plus, our car was older and we weren’t sure about such a long drive. Step 2: The how Reliable vehicle. It is a five-hour drive from our place in Puglia to the town of Amalfi, and part of the draw of this coast is the harrowing drive on its rocky cliffs. Our used car has been reliable until now, but sometimes it just wants to stay in 3rd gear. Not a big deal on flat roads, but it could be an issue on the Amalfi coast. So to be sure, we rented a new car for our 4-day road trip. Where to say. To save money, we initially intended to stay outside the immediate Amalfi coast area, following the recommendation of a local friend. He recommended a hotel that was a good deal in the past; I made a reservation, but the prices were higher than I expected. The next day our friend contacted me with second thoughts. "Rather than staying in Cava dei Tirreni, where I first recommended, I now think it is better to stay on the Amalfi coast, perhaps in Amalfi. That way, you are in the middle of everything. And since it is the off-season, the price should be low." He was 100% correct. We found a great Airbnb in the middle of Amalfi for less than the hotel we had located outside the area. Parking. "There is no parking in Amalfi, so you must think of this before you go!" our Puglian mother hens urged us. Through our AirBnB host, we eventually found parking for 30 euros a night; not cheap, but a necessary step. When to go. Our local Puglian friends keep telling us to avoid the summer tourist months if we go to the Amalfi coast. "You will sit on the road and never move!" one said. "They restrict driving according to your license plate!" said another. "Go now or wait until next winter or spring!" said a 3rd. So following local advice, we took the plunge and went. Amalfi Our five-hour drive went quickly; once we arrived in the area, few cars were on the Amalfi coast road. Google maps directed us to Amalfi, but we bypassed the town since we needed help to get to our parking structure. The only road we could find into the town was full of pedestrians, with the cathedral to the right and the fountain to the left. "We can't bring our car in there," my partner said as we pulled aside and rechecked Google Maps. "Plus, it says 'ZTL' zone; we will get fined!" So we called our Airbnb host, who told us yes, that is the way in and to not worry about the fine; the garage would take care of it. So we pulled the car into the main piazza and inched our way through the pedestrians to the upper town, where the garages were located. Everybody was staring at us as if we were doing something wrong, but later our host confirmed that pedestrians and cars share the same road into the heart of the town. That was our first introduction to Amalfi. But once we parked, settled, and explored, we found a beautiful but highly touristy city. It is not a town I would want to stay in all day, but it makes an excellent base. The coast As stated above, our friends warned us about the traffic on the Amalfi coast during the summer months, so going in March was a great decision. The weather was already warming up, the sun was out, and we were the ONLY car on the coastal road in some areas! Driving along the coast, viewing the beautiful towns and panoramas was a highlight of our trip. The next day we parked along the coast some distance from Positano and walked down to the town; this was rewarding since we could pause, explore, enjoy the views, and discover hidden paths. Positano What I am going to say below is only our experience, so let me preface these comments with that fact. I found Positano more beautiful from a distance than from inside the city. Positano looks like a dream from the coastal road, nestled up the hillside on the sea. But once inside the town, I found it highly touristy, full of shops of items that I would never want to buy. We walked up and down the streets, wondering if we were missing something. We went to see the cathedral and then explored smaller streets; we passed shop after shop, selling a lot of ceramics, overpriced clothing, and cheesy artwork. We walked down to the beach; it was not warm enough to swim or sunbathe, but the water was beautiful. I know people who come to Positano for extended periods. They may love lying on the beach all day or staying in a pool; others may use it as a base. But for me, after two or three hours of exploring Positano, I was done. Grateful but done. The hikes We wanted to go to Ravello from Amalfi, and I was trying to figure out parking. "What do you think if we hiked there?" my partner asked. I got my Google Maps, and we calculated how doable it was. We were able to find a path that didn't take us on a busy road. About 10 minutes after we started, we passed some donkeys being led up the path, carrying supplies. We then bumped into a kind man, Gino, who worked at our garage. We told him where we were headed, and he suggested we go to the left rather than the right. "You will see a beautiful waterfall, pass an interesting organic restaurant run by farmers, and see incredible views." That was enough for us. This hike ended up being the highlight of our trip, and we resolved that our next Amalfi coast trip would be more hike-centered. As we made our way up the path to the first town, Portone, we passed a small cafe where the proprietor invited us in. "Would you like some freshly squeezed lemon and orange juice from my orchard?" he asked. A minute later, we sat at a table with ripening lemons hanging over our heads and a view of the sea to our left. Before I left, I told him this was a moment I would never forget. He thanked me and stuffed two huge lemons in my hand. We wandered through Villa Rufolo, which is impressive and well-known, and then walked further on to Villa Cimbrone, which I liked even better! The views from Ravello were terrific and were well worth the effort. I will remember the scene of school kids playing soccer in the town piazza, in front of views that words fail to capture. I think next time we go, we will make Ravello our base. Step 4: The experience The good The drive along the Amalfi coast off-season is fantastic, the panoramas are incredible, and the atmosphere is magical. Our favorite experiences included hiking to Ravello and seeing Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone. Exploring the Amalfi coast on foot was very fulfilling, and next time we go, we will hike the "path of the gods." The not so good Tourist towns: The tourist towns of Amalfi and Positano are great for a short visit, strolling through the town, going to the beach, or even using them as a base to see other things. But they are very touristy, full of shops with overpriced stuff I would never buy, so I was done with them after a few hours. Restaurants: These were probably isolated experiences, but we went to three restaurants in two days in the Amalfi area. At all three, we were overcharged. They were small amounts, but it kept happening. At the first one where we ate dinner, in Amalfi, we were charged for two coffees we did not order; we noticed it after we left. We figured it was an oversight and let it go. At the second, in Ravello, we were charged 36 euros for two lasagnas; when I inquired, the waitress said, "We gave you bigger slices." I didn't believe it, but I didn't make a fuss. At the third, in Positano, we were determined not to let it happen again. We checked the prices and ordered two pizzas. When the bill came, the price was higher than on the menu, so we pointed it out to the waiter. "Oh, they didn't update the price on my phone!" he explained. No, we didn't believe that one either. I don't know how common this is, but we started buying food at supermarkets to avoid wondering if we were being taken advantage of. Insights: Being a savvy traveler is just part of the learning experience, and we are grateful. The Amalfi coast is impressive, and we will return. Next time we will plan more hikes and be more aware of navigating tourist areas and restaurants. If travel and adventure draw you, my novel carries the reader across the Mediterranean and beyond. Onward: A Life on a Sailboat — a young man's journey from the Amalfi coast to the deserts of Algeria and the south of France. "Vividly written with beautiful and striking descriptions." — Novels Alive https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE More next time.