PART 70: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the Summer and then back again in the winter. Step 1: As we explore towns in Puglia, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. This week, let's explore the cathedral in Nardó. Step 2: The first thing that strikes me when I walk into the cathedral in Nardó is the harmony between new and old, tradition and modernism. Ancient frescos are complemented by art nouveau-esque images, contemporary windows illuminate baroque altars and modern statues (side chapel) stand out from gold leaf decor. Many different ages and styles are reflected in the art and architecture of the cathedral in Nardó which, somehow, forms a unified whole. What is the story behind this combination of art and history? Step 3: Some history: Architecture. 7th century: The church of St. Mary of Neritorio was founded on the site by a group of Greek monks. 1088: A monastery was documented to have been at this site from this date, dedicated to Mary Assumed into Heaven. 1354: After an earthquake, the church facade was rebuilt, the nave was elongated, and side chapels were added. 1456 marked the year of another earthquake, and further modifications were made to strengthen the structure. 1725: The church's facade was rebuilt again, and the baptismal font and other areas of the church's interior were modified according to the style of the time. 1892-99: Another church restoration returned it to its classical style. Step 4: Some history: Artwork. 12th-14th century: Frescos dating back to the 12th century can be found throughout the church. The most noteworthy include St. Nicholas (14th century), St. Augustine (14th century), Christ the Creator (Cristo Pantocratore, 12th century), Madonna and Child (14th century), and Madonna of Health (Salute), dating from 1234. The wooden crucifix, called the "black Christ," dates from the 12th century. The art nouveau-esque style of paintings behind and beside the altar in the nave were painted between 1896 and 1899 by Cesare Maccari. Step 5: Why visit? Churches are everywhere in Italy; some are historical, some house beautiful artwork, others are centers of spirituality, and still others are important architectural monuments. Some have been well preserved, others have been badly renovated, and still others have been neglected. So what is so special about the cathedral in Nardó? The church has many elements and styles, from medieval to art nouveau-esque frescos, baroque altars to modern statuary. Somehow, the cathedral in Nardó brings all these elements together into a unified whole while preserving an atmosphere of peace and prayerfulness. The church is unique in that it keeps the old, honors the new, and invites the visitor to sit for a moment to not only look at the art but to experience the history and absorb a little bit of the spirit of this remarkable place. Insights: By scratching under the surface of some of the sites we visit in Puglia and returning to them a second and even third time, we are coming to appreciate the history and culture surrounding us, going beyond the first impressions. More next time. More next time. My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .

PART 69: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the summer and then back again in the winter. But this may be changing. Step 1: Advantages of being in Puglia in the summer and winter. When we decided to live in Italy for half the year, we had to choose when. Following the Schengen zone guidelines, each stay is limited to 90 days so that we would be coming to Puglia twice a year. Choosing to be in Puglia during the summer made sense for several reasons: to escape the 115-degree (and higher) temperatures in the Palm Springs area, to make our time in Puglia coincide with the vacation schedules of local friends, and to be in Italy during excellent beach weather. Choosing Puglia in the winter made sense because it is off-season. We could explore the cathedral floor in Otranto without distractions, make a road trip to Amalfi (finding the coastal road mostly deserted), and enjoy the absence of tourists on our beaches and our favorite Puglian spots. Step 2: Disadvantages of the summer/winter model. We are in year 2 of our Puglia adventure and are rethinking this summer/winter model since we are experiencing some disadvantages. Some disadvantages of being in Puglia in the summer include the crowded beaches and coastal towns; the humidity plus the heat is more problematic to adjust to than the dry heat back in California; planning road trips when everyone else is traveling can become complicated, and international trips from Puglia are expensive because everyone else is traveling at the same time. As far as the disadvantages of being in Puglia in the winter, the humid cold is probably the most challenging, but this wasn't a big deal once we figured out our heater and got an electric blanket! Another disadvantage is that some towns are utterly dead in the off-season, with restaurants and cafes closed. Step 3: Clarifying goals. We paused to rethink some of our goals during our present stay in Puglia. These include cultivating friendships, becoming part of life in Puglia, international travel, new experiences, and learning a new culture. Clarifying our goals and reflecting on why we came here helps us refine our decisions about what type of experience we want in Puglia. Step 4: The new model: spring and fall. After much thought and discussion, we decided that, in the future, we will live in Puglia in the spring and fall. We realized that we could cultivate our local friendships without having the exact vacation schedules and that the mild weather of fall and spring would enhance our experience of living in Puglia. Step 5: Advantages of spring and fall. Some advantages of shifting our living in Puglia to spring and fall include more affordable travel experiences, fewer crowds, less traffic, milder weather, and more opportunities for new experiences. Insights. Our experience living in Puglia is organic in that we don't have it all figured out, but we are open to each step as it reveals itself. What worked for us last year may not work for this; our experience is evolving, and hopefully, so are we. Being open to what life in Puglia reveals is a path that works for us and helps us to move forward with serenity and gratitude. More next time. My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .

PART 71: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the summer and then back again in the winter, and soon, we will be switching to spring and fall. This blog is a more personal post on how our experiences in Puglia and elsewhere come together for me when I write. Step 1: Why write? Writing is a way to reflect on my life experiences and make sense of them. If I am writing a piece of fiction, my characters strive to make sense of and find meaning in their experiences. It is as simple as that. I don't write for the market or a target audience. I write what is inside, express it, and put it out in the world. Hearing that one of my stories speaks to someone is rewarding. A best seller would be fantastic, but I don't need that to keep writing. If someone wants to sabotage their writing, they base their sense of self as a writer according to what others say and think or the number of copies sold. Writing for oneself is analogous to what an artist does who is breaking new ground. I always recommend other writers to be their own Van Gough. Step 2: How my writing career started. My writing career began when I did not intend to write a book. My life had changed so much since I had been in a Vatican seminary, lived in Rome for eight years, returned to California, and eventually switched my path completely. Life felt like a puzzle, with many pieces that didn't fit together. So, during my breaks at my school site, I started to write about arriving in Rome at age 19 and beginning the road to the priesthood. I continued that narrative through personal struggles, coming to terms with being gay, figuring out how humanity and spirituality could be harmonious rather than in conflict, and discovering where I could find a sense of happiness and fulfillment. I wrote this draft to make sense of my life; when I showed it to my sister she said, "This is good, Mark; this is really good. You should see if you can get it published." I didn't think anyone would be interested in a story that began in the Vatican and ended up in California, but I sent the draft to a few publishers. A few weeks later, Chicago Review Press contracted me to publish the book. That is how it started. Though the circumstances of my life as narrated in the book are unique (seminary life, etc.), I discovered that the themes and issues I dealt with are shared by many. The book has gotten great reviews, and a few years ago, CNN made an animated short based on the story. Step 3: Problems encountered while writing. An event, person, or place must inspire me to write effectively. When I can't think of anything to write, I just let it go and focus on living life. Inevitably, after some days, weeks, or months, something happens, the narrative picks up, and I continue writing. A story or book often writes itself in my head before I start typing. It is hard to explain, but since I am a visual thinker, I usually see scenes from a story play out in my imagination. When I get in front of the computer, I write down, as best as I can, what I "see." If the images stop, I pause the writing and do more research if it is a historical story, and more living if it is not. I am very self-critical, so one strategy that helps me to keep writing is to only look at what I have written once I complete the entire piece. For example, as I researched and wrote each chapter of my recent book about Puglia, I only looked back to see what I had written once the first draft of the entire book was completed. Editing should come after, not during. Step 4: Problems encountered in trying to get published. I have published eight books, worked with three publishing houses, and self-published a few. The problems getting published are endless. First, major publishers will only look at a proposal if a literary agent presents it. Though I am a prolific writer, and some of my books have done very well, I gave up on finding a literary agent years ago. Now, I target small or mid-sized publishers who do not require an intermediary. My current publisher, Dixi Books, is based in London and is a smaller publisher with a good distribution network in Europe and a developing one elsewhere. The upside of working with smaller publishers is that the writer gets to work directly with the owner and has much say about the book, cover, etc. The downside is that the writer must do most of the work, from marketing to editing. Smaller publishing companies do not have the staff to do the footwork. Self-publishing is coming into its own, with some impressive success stories. But the downside is that most bookstores will not carry self-published books, and the only way to sell a self-published book is to use all of one's energies to make it known. Step 5: Dealing with positive and negative reviews. Writing a book is like putting your child out into the world and hoping they will be treated well by everyone, without having control over the actions or opinions of others. Any book will have a balance of positive and negative reviews; some may like my writing, and others not. I have read books on the New York Times best sellers list and have been unable to finish them because I didn't like the writing, the plot, the story, or any number of things. So, my writing may speak to some but rarely to all. Negative reviews can be hard to stomach, but writers must put on their big boy pants and move on. When I got a very negative review of my book, "She Seduced Me: A Love Affair from Rome," from a reviewer who confessed that he hates Rome and was offended by any references to church history in the narrative, I scratched my head and thought "so why write a review?" A lifelong writer has to let these things go. I write to make sense of life, and if it helps someone do the same, all the better. Good or bad reviews are less critical than writing with a purpose. Step 6: How our time living in Italy impacts my writing. Living in Italy is often the bread and butter of my writing because living in another culture gives me perspective on my world. I get to meet new and fascinating people, hear about the thoughts and dreams of others, or observe the way people we meet from different backgrounds and cultures live their lives and navigate through their sense of fulfillment, happiness, and meaning. Besides the people, the history found in Italy brings the past alive. I have a big imagination, and it only takes a hike up to one of the 16th-century towers in Salento for me to touch the stone and visualize the soldier sending signals to the next tower that pirates have been sighted on the horizon, that an invasion may be imminent and that one's life would depend on how fast the community could mobilize. I imagine soldiers jumping on their horses to warn the townspeople, and the population fleeing to the hills to hide; thus, a story is born. I could go on and on, but it is all summed up in the affirmation: Yes, living in Italy generates new stories from the past and present that invite me to write them down and share. I hope this story continues. More next time. My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .

PART 72: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the summer and then back again in the winter, but soon to change to spring/fall. This blog is a more personal post. Step 1: Self-Care A healthy sense of taking care of myself was a skill that I had to learn. Growing up in a challenging family situation influenced me to care for others while (sort of) ignoring myself. I brought this attitude into relationships, often finding myself doing for others what they could do for themselves. Experience taught me that self-care is not selfishness and that the basis of a healthy love for others is a balanced love of oneself. In adulthood, I gradually learned to mind my own business while seeking my happiness and allowing others to pursue theirs. Step 2: Levels Self-care has three levels, which I used to communicate with my educators when I worked as a teacher mentor. These three levels include the physical, emotional, and spiritual. Let's explore these levels in Puglia and California. Step 3: Physical. Physical self-care, to me, refers to my relationship with my body. How I eat, organize my day, exercise, and choose my lifestyle are all part of my physical well-being. Exercise: I was in my thirties when I started going to the gym. My initial motivation was survival: I was constantly getting sick, always on antibiotics, and could never seem to attain a sense of stable health. I was thin, tired, and worn out most of the time. Then, I stepped into a gym, connected with the right people, made a decision, and remained consistent with my training over the past three decades. When we came to Puglia, I was determined to keep my fitness program going, so on the day after we arrived, we found a local gym, established a rapport, joined, and became part of our gym family. As stated in another post (Fitness in Puglia), I had to learn flexibility because of the different opening hours and ways of accommodating others at the gym. When I go on a road trip or travel, it is more challenging to go to the gym for a few days or a week, so I give myself a break rather than stress over it and look for opportunities to hike or walk. Diet: When I first started training, I became aware of what I was eating. Fast food and grabbing a bite had to give way to something healthier, so I soon developed an eating routine that included high protein, lots of fruits and vegetables, and minimum junk food and sweets. I had this down to a science until we moved to Puglia. During our first extended stay in Puglia (we are following the 90/180 rule), my mentality was that I was following the Mediterranean diet if I ate whatever I felt like while in the Mediterranean! So, after our first three months in Italy, on our return to California, I realized that I was eating about 90% carbs all of the time. Pastries for breakfast, pasta for lunch, and pizza for dinner had become a habit. But this would not work for a healthy lifestyle. Something had to change. Since I am a visual thinker, I need to see something for it to stay in my mind. So, I set myself the task of working out my diet on paper. Drawing on past healthy eating routines, I set up an eating schedule independent of what I felt like. It is not a rigid schedule and is open to exceptions. Still, some of the things I came up with include eating a healthy breakfast before going out to coffee in the morning (so I am not missing the cornetto), building a rapport with our butcher, who already knows that I want sliced chicken breast when he sees me walk in; planning out our dinners for the week, which we have kept as our main meal; integrating all the great produce available into our diet each day, and going to the market often rather than buying perishables for the entire week. These past 90 days, we ate much healthier because of a bit of planning and attention. Step 4: Emotional: When I think "emotional," I think about relationships. Fortunately, I have an excellent partner in a stable and committed relationship who shares my interest in travel and curiosity about the world. But one's emotional side/needs also include other relationships with oneself, one's family, and friends. We will explore a couple of these. Oneself. It may seem weird to say that I have a relationship with myself, but this mindset helps guide me into a healthier attitude. For example, I can be self-critical, whether it be about my actions, abilities, or personality. It is easy for me to beat myself up over mistakes, flaws, or whatever. But a question that helps me reframe my thinking is: "Would I treat my best friends like that?" So if I drop a plate and it shatters, would I tell my best friend how clumsy they are? So why am I telling myself that? If I say something I regret and repeat to myself six months later how stupid I am, would I call a friend stupid? If I am not good enough, skilled enough, or smart enough, would I call my best friend evil, dorky or dumb? So why am I treating myself like that? So, having a good relationship with oneself means treating oneself as one's own best friend. Friendships. Taking care of oneself on an emotional level also involves others. It means realizing that there are different types of friendships, that some are for a season and others for a lifetime and that they always include sharing of oneself and not just one's activities. I have some friendships that go back decades, which I am incredibly grateful for. But I must continue cultivating historical friendships since, as I explored in another blog (Migratory Living), a friendship that is not cared for can fade over time. So when we are in Puglia, I nourish my distant friendships and avoid only sending photos of the latest thing we did that day. Our life in Italy is in its second year, so our local friendships are newer and evolving. We have some historical friendships with a few who live in both Rome and Puglia, and these have been pivotal in both our decision to come to this part of Italy and our feeling at home here. But we have recently met other locals, including expats, Puglians from birth, and others who live here part-time. We have found all of them friendly and open to friendship. What is fascinating about the expats we have met is that we all share the same quality: we seek a bigger life. The 9-5 job, weekend errands, and two weeks a year vacation routine don't work for us. We want more; we want to act and not just dream, so here we are! Ever since we began living in Italy, we have been meeting the most interesting people and potential friends. Step 5: Spiritual: Each individual's spiritual side will differ, so I can only speak to my experience. Taking care of my spiritual side boils down to one word: gratitude. By nature, I am a planner and controller and tend not to like the unknown. After years of waking up with to-do lists, goals, and fears for the day, I realized that I wanted another type of daily life, no longer to be ruled by planning and fearfulness. Over a decade ago, a friend told me: "I do a gratitude list. When I get stressed or distracted, I write down ten things I am grateful for; I do this every day for ten days. At the end of it, my attitude changed. I challenge you to do it." I took the challenge, and at the end of ten days, I found myself less focused on what "could be" and more on what I had been given. I have kept this practice beyond the ten days and start and end each day with a reflection on what I am grateful for. Beyond this, I have certain spiritual practices that work for me. Sometimes, if I am feeling empty or running on fumes, I need to multiply these; other times, I can be more relaxed. But I am aware of my spirit, so I can pause and care for myself. Some of the spiritual practices that work for me include hiking up a hilltop alone (Santa Caterina!), taking a quiet walk through the historical center of our town in the evening, stopping and meditating inside an empty church, gazing at a painting of a heroic life or looking up at the stars and saying "thank you." Everyone is different. I always encouraged my students to find ways to take care of the three components of their personalities. Insights: Taking care of oneself physically, emotionally, and spiritually are three components that I have needed to work on here in Puglia, but the effort is bearing fruit with a sense of peace and gratitude. More next time. My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .

PART 73: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the spring and then back again in the fall. Step 1: I think of myself as a spontaneous adventurer, ready to dive into any new situation and discover what it will bring. But, in reality, I like certain routines, and breakfast (colazione) in Puglia is one of them. So, through trial and error, we have found the best breakfast place "for us". Come with us. Step 2: Criteria. Starting on the right note can set the tone for the entire day. Before getting out of bed, I take a moment to think of all the things and people I am grateful for. But once we are up, what next? We want to take full advantage of being in Puglia, so we were determined to start our day with a uniquely Puglian experience. Through trial and error, we found the perfect cafe that fits the following criteria: great coffee, warm relationships, a unique location, and the right atmosphere. Step 3: The coffee. I like coffee that I can sip and enjoy for a long time, so expresso doesn't work for me. I don't want to look forward to that cup and finish it in 2 seconds. I used to drink cappuccinos in the mornings in Italy. I still like my occasional cappuccino, but under the influence of my partner, I now find myself ordering an Americano. The type of Americano that I like is strong, not too diluted, and mixed by the barista (rather than handing me an expresso with hot water on the side). I also like it with hot steamed milk, piping hot and creamy. We have found a few cafes that make great Americanos, one of which can be found at our favorite cafe. Step 4: The relationships. People who work at cafes are not machines but people who have jobs or own businesses. The "people" aspect is essential to us, and I want to frequent and support businesses that have relationships with their customers. When we started coming to our perfect cafe, we noted that the owners, managers, and workers are young, dynamic, friendly, and have a good vibe with their customers. Once this place became our daily stop, our relationships at the cafe grew and became an important component of our life in Puglia. As I wrote in another blog, we realized that relationships are central, which rings true at our cafe. Step 5: Location. So many things make up this magical land: its history, baroque architecture, olive groves, beautiful beaches, clear blue waters, fishing boats, kind people, and more. Where we begin our day is important. We used to have our coffee in a dark cafe near our house, but now our perfect cafe is on a beach with a view of the Ionian sea. Every day, as we sip our Americanos, we ask one another, "Can you believe we are here?" That is the way we want to start our day. Step 6: Atmosphere. Outdoor seating is essential to our perfect cafe since Puglia is about the views, the light, and the life swirling around us. A quiet atmosphere is also important, with low or no background music and enough tables to sit a group. Sometimes, we go for coffee and become a group of eight or nine. Insights: Through trial and error, we found the perfect place to start our day here in Puglia. Our perfect place is called Momento, in Santa Caterina, not far from Nardo'. https://www.facebook.com/momentosantacaterina Do you have a perfect place where you start your day? More next time. My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/Stories-Puglia-Californians-Southern-Italy/dp/1913680649 . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .

PART 74: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the summer and then back again in the winter, but soon, we will switch to spring and fall. Step 1: As we explore towns in Puglia, we discover some fascinating stories behind what we see. Sometimes, it is a building; other times, it is a piece of art. This week, we will travel to Trani. Come with us. Step 2: Reputation. Our first introduction to Trani was a road trip with some local friends. As we approached the town, the local stories emerged and piqued our interest. Our Puglian friend recounted the reputation that Trani had in the past in the area of sexuality. According to our local friend, the distinction between gay and straight was more blurred, and Trani was known for being an area of tolerance. "There is even a legend that the fishermen of Trani were very popular with visitors," he added. Of course, we wanted to know more; in fact, we told our friend to drive us down to the marina so we could see for ourselves! He laughed and said that this is history and Trani was popular when being gay was taboo decades ago. We sank back in our seats. But there was a different reason we journeyed to Trani. Our friend promised we would see something that would blow our socks off. Step 3: The sight. We parked, walked down a street, turned a corner, and looked up. My breath stopped, my heart missed a beat, and my mouth hung open. We were gazing at Trani Cathedral. I don't know what was more beautiful: the Romanesque church, begun in 1099, or its juxtaposition to the sea. The combination of the architecture and the grandeur of nature made it a breathtaking sight. Step 4: The story. Before entering the church, our friend sat us down to recount the tale of St. Nicholas the Pilgrim, to whom the church is dedicated. I capture this story in my book on Puglia but here I will share some elements. The intriguing part for me is that Nicholas the Pilgrim was a homeless man with many family and personal problems. He probably suffered from Tourette syndrome, which can compel one to either repeat a word or phrase over and over or result in an uncontrollable twitch. Misunderstood, persecuted, and beaten, Nicholas was eventually turned out by his family and wandered the roads of Magna Grecia. At a certain point, he decided that he must go to Rome on a pilgrimage, but on the way, Nicholas was persecuted and beaten by some church leaders to the extent that he was bleeding and losing strength. He made it as far as Trani, and then, on the steps of a church previously on that spot, he collapsed. The bishop came out to help him, but Nicholas died in his arms. Besides the tragic circumstances of his life, Nicholas became known for his lively faith, compassion, empathy, and outspokenness. Step 5: Why the story is important. The story of Nicholas brought Trani alive for me because the town chose to honor this man, whom others may have seen as a loser, as their patron saint. The church in his honor gives meaning to his life and shows that the citizens of Trani saw greatness where others saw only weakness; they saw that human dignity is not measured by what one may or may not accomplish but rather by the person that one is, by one’s character. Insights: Visiting Trani helped us understand Puglia in a new way because the church's greatness compared with the humble man it honors reveals something of the character of this land and people. More next time. Now on sale for $2.99: Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy https://a.co/d/fAE3q0B And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .

PART 76: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the summer and then back again in the winter; we will soon switch to spring and fall. Step 1: As we explore towns in Puglia, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some of these are well-known tourist magnets; others are lesser known but always amazing. This week, let's explore Monopoli and Polignano. Step 2: History. "Go to Monopoli! It is worth it!" our local Puglian friends urged us last summer. "And visit Polignano too!" "But it's such a long drive!" I whined. "It is worth it. Go. It is beautiful," he replied. But we kept putting it off. Finally, on a lazy weekend in February, we decided to make the drive. Monopoli was chilly and amazing. What was so interesting was that it is both a vibrant town with an awe-inspiring coastline and an incredible historical center. The absence of tourists added drama to the vistas. But what about the history of the town? Monopoli: "Mono Polis" means "unique city" or "only city," and Monopoli is just that. The town dates back to about 500 BC. Jumping ahead to the era of the Roman empire, Emperor Trajan had the vital road Via Traiana built between 108 and 110 AD, which connected the city to the rest of the empire. After the fall of Rome, Monopoli was inhabited by Byzantines, Normans, and others. It eventually became a critical launching port during the Crusades and, in the 1400s, was under Venetian control; it then passed to the Spanish crown in the 1500s. Why is any of this important or even interesting? Because the historical context gives meaning to some of the important buildings in Monopoli: the castle of Charles V (1525), the castle and monastery of St. Stephen (1086), Jerusalem Hospital (1350), and the 18th-century cathedral and Palazzo Palmieri. But face it, we come to Monopoli primarily for the vistas on the Adriatic. Step 3: Sights Basilica of the Madonna della Madia. A cathedral can give a glimpse into the life and culture of a people, and the same is true in Monopoli. This cathedral is bathed in fantastic legends and stories, connecting construction, funding, and engineering problems with faith. The story is that the builders ran out of beams to complete the roof's construction, so the work was halted. Years passed, and then as if by miracle, a wooden raft floated to the shore, which contained an icon of the Madonna and a pile of wooden beams. The beams on the raft were the exact number needed to complete the construction. So, the building was resumed and completed. In the 1700s, the original building was mostly demolished, and the basilica we see today was erected. We were struck by the baroque feast of color, stone, and light when we stepped inside, celebrating the story of the cathedral's origins and the Madonna who watches over the city. It is very cool. The Castle of Charles V Even though the castle was closed the day we went (it is used as an exhibition hall), the location, history, and architecture were worth it. I put my hand on the stone wall, wondering who may have touched that place in the 16th century. The castle is located near the old port and was used to defend the city against pirates; then, the Spanish took it over and used the castle to house soldiers and their families. Afterward, the castle was then used as a prison until the 1990s. Beaches. Since we went in the winter, the beaches were more about vistas than frolicking on the sand. But Monopoli and the area around it have beautiful beaches. As we gazed along the shoreline, we noticed a group of young adults who walked out onto the beach, slipped off their clothes to their bathing suits, and jumped into the cold water. The seemed to be having a blast. Step 4: Cool things. Walking without a goal. Strolling is an essential activity in Monopoli. Wandering through the historical center, in and out of alleys and small streets, along the coast and further inland, one discovers public art, small cafes', beautiful architecture, and incredible vistas out to the sea. Visit Polignano. Traveling to Poligignano is only a 15-minute drive from Monopoli. It is smaller, more compact, and has its particular type of beauty. My partner preferred Monopoli, but I liked Polignano more. Both were beautiful, and each had a different "vibe." Go to both. Insights: Exploring Puglia, taking the advice of locals, and being willing to not stick to our own plans all of the time is enabling us to discover beautiful towns, buildings, and people that were not on our radar before. We are very grateful. More next time. "Stories from Puglia": On sale now for $2.99: https://a.co/d/eqBqn5j . And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .

PART 75: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Puglia in the summer and then back again in the winter, but soon to be spring and fall. Step 1: Priorities. The decision-making process of establishing a life in Puglia required us to clarify our priorities. It would be much easier to remain in California and continue the calm and tranquil life that we established. Life in Palm Springs is much less stressful than in Los Angeles, where I lived and worked until recently. But the question kept arising: is calm and peaceful enough? What we wanted out of life was a question we couldn't escape, so we went on a quest to understand our priorities. So far, we have come up with these priorities: Step 2: Priority of relationships. Investing in our relationships in California and Puglia. Establishing a base in Europe that would become like home, I wanted something other than a nomad lifestyle. Exploration and travel to areas we have never been to. Coming to understand and also assimilate another culture and language (Italian). Grow, let the experience transform us, and have a bigger life. Step 3: Priorities and the News. Until we moved to Puglia, I was a newsie. I felt like I had to keep up with every political or social event during the day to ensure the world wasn't falling apart! I didn't have much peace of mind during that period. Being in Puglia and so distant from the day-to-day churning of news has diminished my desire to follow the news so closely. When we return to California, I look at news website headlines to get the gist of what is happening rather than watch hours of news. Don't get me wrong; I am not advocating ignoring current events and giving power to those who abuse it. I am an avid voter, but Puglia has changed what I am willing to fill my mind with every day. Living here shows me what I have power over: my own life. Step 4: Take nothing for granted. I am grateful for my 25 years as a high school teacher because the students have taught me so much. I remember a day when I felt burdened by personal challenges and school politics. I was withdrawn and brooding that morning when I walked into the school. After I signed in, I walked in front of a group of special needs students in wheelchairs; they were 15 or 16 years old, smiling and chatting with one of their teachers. I continued to my classroom, but the image of those kids remained in my mind. Every day was a challenge for them. Though the challenges I was going through remained, those faced by others gave me perspective and reminded me that even the everyday things, like health or the use of my limbs, are gifts. Somehow, my problems diminished. Being able to live in Puglia, even for part of the year; being able to use it as a base as we explore other areas of Europe; being able to swim in the sea, climb mountains, or ride a bike through the countryside are all gifts that I do not want to take for granted. Puglia is showing me that gratitude is a matter of perspective. Step 5: Spontaneity. I have to admit it: I like a plan. When my partner springs an idea on me, like, "Hey, would you like to hop in the car and drive to so and so," my response is usually like "No." I know I don't like spontaneity, but Puglia is changing this. Some of our local friends in Puglia are not planners but steer their lives with a more spur-of-the-moment attitude. At first, I resisted, but when we started accepting some spontaneous dinner invitations or road trips, we realized that these ended up being some of the most beautiful experiences that we have had there. So spontaneity can be a gift, and I am learning to be more open to what is beyond my plans, even while back in California. Insights: Without a project or plan, our time in Puglia transforms our life in California. A new sense of gratitude, a changing set of priorities, and a sense of purpose and meaning in our daily lives are gifts from our time in this magical place. More next time. Now on sale for $2.99: Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy https://a.co/d/fAE3q0B And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .

Our Italian Adventure: Leaving Puglia PART 76: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Italy in the Spring and back again in the Fall. Step 1: I never thought I would write the words "Leaving Puglia," but our sojourn in Italy unfolds in unexpected ways that keep getting better. We are closing one chapter in Puglia and opening a new chapter in Tuscany. But how did that happen? Step 2: Puglia beginnings. We had been talking about moving to Italy for about six years before we made the move. I retired in mid-June almost two years ago; on July 2, we started living in Puglia. As I explained in a previous blog, Puglia was the logical choice: We have local friends here. The combination of natural wonders and historical places is unique. Life is easy in southern Italy. In fact, for both of us, living in Italy or California has been seamless. Life has been so good and calm that we considered putting in an offer for a house in Nardó. Before making the offer, we sat down with our local Puglian friends and asked for their opinions. One of them made a comment that hit home. Step 3: A seed planted. "Are you sure you want to live in Puglia?" our friend asked. "Knowing you guys and your interests, I think further north in Italy would be a better fit. You guys are into history and culture, and you're not really interested in going to the beach all the time. Remember that our friendship doesn't depend on living in the same city." As soon as he made this comment, it resonated with both of us. Puglia has been great; our local friends have become an important part of our lives, the cultural monuments around us fascinate us, and the amazing sunsets and panoramas give us a sense of peace. But do we want more from our experience of living in Italy? Step 4: Discernment. In the seminary, the term "discernment" was used to indicate the comparison between outer events and one's inner feelings to discover one's path. So we began a path of discernment, asking ourselves why we sacrificed to come to Italy and what we are seeking from our experience. Before our move, I would long to be back in Italy, like a cultural hunger. I "need" to touch history, walk in the paths of emperors, step into the remains of an ancient cafe, and wander through museums of ancient art and sculpture. Even today, I long for it and can't wait until we return. While living in Puglia, we have taken full advantage of the region's cultural and historical heritage, whether it be Galatina, Otranto, Leuca, Bari, Alberobello, and beyond. We have been to these places multiple times. "What if we lived in an area," my partner asked recently, "rather than returning to the same church or painting or hilltop over and over again, we could go to Florence, or Pienza, or Assisi, or Siena or Rome on a whim? What if we could discover new areas? What if we lived in an area where more of Italy would be within our reach?" Step 5: Affordability. One of the great things about Puglia is its affordability, especially for housing. We are middle-class guys paying off student loans and keeping up with bills and our mortgage. I didn't think we could afford areas in the north. "There is an area in Tuscany where houses are as affordable as in Puglia," our local friend told us. We followed up on his advice and traveled to this area. He was right; we found a house, and it fits our budget. In a future post, I will describe the area of Tuscany that we discovered and are in the process of moving to. Step 6: Feelings. How do we feel about leaving Puglia? First, it doesn't feel like leaving. Puglia is the first chapter of a multi-part story, and our time in Puglia and our friends there will always be part of our lives. We are so grateful for the seamless beginning we have had in Puglia. Leaving Puglia feels like reading my favorite chapter in a book and wondering what will happen next. This chapter is excellent but is not meant to be the entire story, so we are excited to see how it unfolds. In future blogs, I will capture what steps we are taking, how life in Tuscany is unfolding, and what we are learning along the way. Insights. As we leave Puglia and begin the next chapter in Tuscany, our experience of living in Italy is becoming greater than our initial plans. It doesn't feel like we are leaving anything; it feels more like continuing the adventure. More next time. SECOND EDITION NOW ON SALE FOR $2.99!  “She Seduced Me: A Love Affair with Rome.” https://a.co/d/4Bx0Eh3 .  Amazon Italy- my book “Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma”: https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL .

PART 77: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Italy in the Summer and then back again in the Winter, but we will soon be changing our stays to the Spring and Fall months. Step 1: In a previous blog post, I discussed how we decided to move from Puglia to Tuscany. We are grateful for the many chapters our time living in Italy is revealing. Since we are in the midst of that transition, what are we finding as we move to Tuscany? Step 2: The parts of Tuscany. It is easy to equate Tuscany with the Val d'Orcia, its iconic wheat fields, towering cypress, and incredible stone houses. Pienza, Montepulciano, and Castiglione d'Orcia are some of the towns that come to mind. Florence and Siena are also among the most beautiful cities in the region. Though drawn to this area because of its beauty, we never considered a move there because its real estate prices would blow our budget. Local friends are often the best source for information, and one of our friends in Puglia, for several years, has been urging us to visit the part of Tuscany of Monte Amiata. At 1,738 meters, the mountain, with its incredible forests, hosts many different sports activities, from skiing, snowboarding, mountain biking, trekking, picnicking, and camping. Besides these, the area is close to those cultural sites that Tuscany is known for. Finally, we listened to our Puglian friend; we flew to Pisa, rented a car, and headed to our destination. Our friend gave us a list of towns he suggested we explore. These included: Abbadia San Salvatore Arcidosso Castel del Piano Seggiano Santa Fiora Piancastagnaio We found an Airbnb in Abbadia San Salvatore and explored the area. We had only four days, so we needed to allow enough time to experience the vibe in each place while not spending too much time in one. Step 3: What we found. Our friend from Puglia promised us: "If you go, I know you will LOVE it!" His words were prophetic. As we made our way from town to town around Monte Amiata, we drove through dense beech forests that were so beautiful that we seemed to be in a fairy tale. It was challenging to compare California's pine and redwood forests to what we found on Monte Amiata; it is a different type of beauty—equally awe-inspiring. During our forest drive, my partner exclaimed, "This is so beautiful it is ridiculous!" I responded, using an expression I've heard from my high school students: "This is sick!" Lol. As we visited different towns, we were surprised at the different architecture and vibe each had. On paper, I liked Abbadia the most because of its larger population and sports facilities. But in person, I fell in love with Arcidosso, where the medieval center and modern town are harmonious. One morning, we went to Seggiano for breakfast and sat on the edge of the town overlooking the rolling Tuscan hills while sipping our coffees and munching on our fresh pastries. It was so beautiful that it also seemed unreal. The town is historical, small, and beautiful; for me, a great place to visit, but a bit small to live in for my taste. We visited the other towns on our friends list and stayed a night in Castel del Piano, but none quite "fit" like Arcidosso. Arcidosso kept drawing us back, and we returned to walk through its medieval streets and dine at an excellent cafe in the modern town. Step 4: Housing. After spending almost two years in Puglia, we came to Tuscany to explore the possibility of living there. But could we afford it? We found that housing in the Monte Amiata area was much less expensive than in other parts of Tuscany. During our exploratory visit, we decided to budget some time to look at some houses for sale and others for rent. Step 5: Deciding to buy. In a future blog, I will explore our decision to move from renters (in Puglia) to owners (in Tuscany) more fully. Here, I will say that we found a house in Arcidosso that struck my partner and me as "the one." We loved the house and the town as soon as we walked in and, in the few days there, began a friendship with some locals. It is hard to explain how this house seemed to draw us in and embrace us. The owner told us that he has been waiting to sell the house to the right people, having previously turned down two offers. The decision to buy rather than rent was organic; we explored renting and buying in the Monte Amiata area without clinging to either choice. So, we are taking the leap: our offer has been accepted, and now we are taking the steps to take full possession of the house. In a few weeks, we will return to Italy and will be in Tuscany to begin our new life in our 16th-century home in Arcidosso. Insights: Sometimes, we restrict ourselves by setting limitations based on incomplete knowledge or fear of taking risks. At one point, we never thought it would be possible to live in Tuscany. We believed it was too expensive, didn't know anyone there, and were too scared to take such a significant risk. However, we eventually started listening to others who recommended visiting Monte Amiata and investigating housing costs in the area. After experiencing the towns, we realized we were being led here and started saying "yes" to what was being revealed. As a result, a new chapter of our lives in Italy has begun. More next time. Now on sale for $2.99: My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRKMKPWF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_X2WRQ3PTG2ZDD7AVF6GH And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .

PART 78: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we are taking and what we are learning along the way. We are loving every minute of it, and what was once a dream is now our life! We live in Tuscany in the Fall and then back again in the Spring, and in California fo r the rest of the time (in a previous blog I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year). Step 1: When we decided to live in Italy, we didn't have a grand plan or every detail worked out. We decided to step into the experience of living here and see what it would reveal. We had looked at houses for sale online, but since we didn't know the area well (Puglia), we decided to rent. When we visited during the Christmas holidays before our move, a local friend had just finished renovating his house near Nardo'. We knew we found our initial home when we stepped inside and saw the two bathrooms, modern kitchen, and sleek design. Step 2: Advantages of renting. We choose to move into our Italian life gradually rather than plunging in. So renting has the advantage of making a temporary commitment to a place. This is a positive because each town and area has a different flavor or vibe; some are more touristy, some are dead during the off-season, others have street life, and others don't. Some areas have many expats, others have none. These factors, and many others, are best revealed through experiencing life on the ground. After a year of renting, we found towns that we would like to live in and others that we would not; some looked great on paper (on the internet) but had a whole different look or feeling when we went to them. We slowly developed our criteria for what type of area or town we would like to live in. We made a one-year commitment to live in a town in Puglia, and the experience there has been incredible. But this first year and a half renting helped us clarify what we are looking for. Renting has also enabled us to reflect more on what we want out of our experience in Italy. Being from California and having experienced beach life there, we were looking for something different. We realized we wanted an active lifestyle and access to Italy's rich historical and cultural heritage. We were drawn to Tuscany and decided to explore housing there, both renting and buying. Ultimately, we decided to buy a place. Step 3: Why buy? We planned a trip to visit the Mount Amiata region of Tuscany (more on that in another blog); our local friends promised us that we would love it. We decided to explore the area to get a feel for it and look at housing for sale and rent. What we found in this area was what we were looking for in Italy: our desire for an active lifestyle could be fulfilled through the hiking/skiing/cycling on Amiata and the gyms and sports facilities in the area. Our cultural yearnings could find their answer in the proximity of Florence, Siena, Assisi, and Pienza. It didn't take us long to realize that this was the area we were destined for. We had contacts in the real estate world; with them, we visited some towns, saw some houses for sale, and discussed renting possibilities. Then we went to Arcidosso. Our friendly and professional realtor offered to show us a unique house for sale in the historical center. As we walked up the curving medieval streets, decked with flowers outside the front doors of the homes, it felt like we were walking into a fairytale. Stepping inside the 16th-century house, we were bowled over by its charm. But we didn't want to make any rash decisions. We would look at other towns and homes and explore the renting market. Step 4: The decision. It isn't easy to describe the difference between "forcing a solution" and being open to what is unfolding, but our decision to make an offer to purchase this house was more about acceptance of an opportunity instead of trying to manipulate a situation to make it go our way. We knew the limits of what we could afford and discussed this openly with the realtor. We also discussed practical challenges, such as wanting a second bathroom and if this would be possible, etc. So we put it all on the table and asked: could this work? We had both decided that if we got this house, it would be great, but if we didn't get it, it wasn't the one for us, and we would continue renting. We were at peace when we made our offer, whatever the outcome. When it was accepted, we were almost surprised. And grateful. The realtors and owners made our experience of buying a house in Italy smooth, beautiful, and positive. Moving from renting to buying a place in Italy was a natural step for us. Step 5: Advantages of owning. The advantages of owning a home in Italy include stability and belonging in an area we love. The ability to change the house to fit our needs, such as adding a second bathroom or swapping out the shower, is also a big plus. Becoming a more stable part of the community and committing to the area also figured into our decision to own. There are other advantages of owning rather than renting. Can you think of any? Add your ideas in the comments. Step 6: Connections. Relationships are essential to us; in fact, we started in Puglia primarily influenced by our friendships in the area. When we came to the Mount Amiata area, we felt welcomed and connected with our realtors and their families and friends. We realized that our time in Tuscany would be spent enjoying beautiful panoramas and historical monuments and cultivating friendships with those around us. Insights. Beginning life in Italy, even if for part of the year, can feel intimidating, especially if one feels like they have to buy a place before moving here. But it doesn't have to be like that. In the classroom, my students sometimes felt intimidated by a project they had to complete; it seemed so big that they couldn't even get started. I gradually learned how to "chunk" it, breaking the project into small components that we could focus on that day. After completing six or seven components, my students could cut them out, paste them on a poster board, and have a presentation on World War II, which they never thought they could do. Our experience in Italy is like this. We like "chunking" our journey here. It makes what once seemed impossible a reality. More next time. My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." On sale for $2.99. Amazon US: https://a.co/d/iXetAju .  And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .

PART 77: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps we took. We live in Italy in the Spring and back again in the Fall. Step 1: The road from living in Puglia to establishing a new life in Tuscany is happening organically, and we would like to trace some of these steps with you. Step 2: Evolving Friendships Although we imagined that Puglia would be our Italian home for life, we were open to what the experience of living in Italy would reveal. And during our second year, it revealed a lot. We chose Puglia as our home primarily because of our local friendships. We decided to build on those relationships we had already established from previous visits. These friendships have been and still are one of the most rewarding aspects of living (part-time) in Italy. We realized a few things about our local friendships during our second year in Puglia. Most of our Puglian friends were busy during the summer of our second year. Some had travel plans, others worked in the north, and others had demanding jobs. So, we saw very little of some of our friends during our second summer in Puglia, which made us reflect on our commitment to Puglia. We spoke with our friends about these changes and realized that maintaining and growing friendships is not dependent on geography; whether we live in the same area as a friend does not define friendship. We also realized that we could not come to Puglia and expect friends to stop their lives and rally around the Californians; it was up to us to organize our days around what was important to us. This process and reflection have led us to a more mature experience of friendship and freed us from feeling that if we left Puglia, we would lose our friends. Not true. Step 3: What is the point? Once we clarified the friendship issue, we felt more free to examine our motives. Why were we in Italy? It is a significant expense and challenging to balance all the moving parts. Are we here to hang out in Europe without purpose other than wanting to live in another culture? During year two, we began to ask ourselves: what is the point? What are we looking for here? Step 4: Beaches, mountains, culture, travel Being from California, we are used to beach life, so Puglia seemed like a great fit. Some of our local friends call Salento the "California of Italy." It has a similar laid-back feel and intense beach culture during the summer. The culture is also very open-minded, gay-friendly, and inquisitive. Since neither my partner nor I are interested in laying on a beach for hours, we found ourselves seeking out cultural, physical, or travel activities in Puglia rather than accompanying our friends to the beach. We sought places to hike, gyms to train in, historical sites to visit, and other European cities to fly to. Having been to many, if not all, cultural sites within two hours of our base in Puglia at least five or six times, we began to feel ready for something new. Because of our backgrounds, my partner and I are drawn more to the mountains than beaches; we like the challenge of a long hike, discovering a rarely seen panorama, or winter sports associated with mountains. One of the reasons that we chose to live in Italy was to use our place as a base to explore more of Europe. We lived in Puglia near the Brindisi airport and about two hours from Bari, and we took advantage of this by taking a few European trips. But, since we were in the extreme south of Italy, exploring other places by car was challenging. Would somewhere more central hit our target of using our place in Italy as a base? Step 5: Where in Tuscany? We had a lot of questions that rose to the surface during our second year in Puglia; perhaps this made us more open to finally listening to one of our local friends, who had been urging us for years: "Go to Monte Amiata in Tuscany. It is affordable, and you will love it." Though my partner had always been drawn to Tuscany, I had dismissed it, always replying, "We can't afford it." It was true that we could not afford to live in Florence or Siena or the Val d'Orcia. "There is more to Tuscany than those places, and yet you can be near all of them!" our local friend said. So, after finally hearing his words, we booked a flight to Pisa, rented a car and AirBnB for four days, and ended up in the towns in the Monte Amiata region of Tuscany. What we found was: More opportunities for an active lifestyle (hiking, mountain biking, winter sports, gyms, etc). More cultural sites to visit in the immediate area (Florence, Assisi, Siena, Pienza, etc). A more central location in Italy to use our place as a base. We were surprised to hear ourselves say: this is the place we want to be. Step 6: Budget questions Due to California obligations, we would need to live in two places, which constrains our budget. We have student loans, a mortgage, and all the other expenses; we could only make this work if it fits our budget. We found that the Monte Amiata area of Tuscany is more affordable than other parts, and we found housing that cost less than a house in Nardo' that we had considered buying. So, we are taking the step that feels natural, not forced. I will share more as we learn through our experience. Insights. Taking one step at a time, rather than having it all figured out at the beginning, is working for us as we establish our life in Italy. Moving from Puglia to Tuscany isn't something we could have imagined a year ago. Still, circumstances and experiences revealed the logic of such a move, and the doors opened almost by themselves. More next time. Now on sale for $2.99: My book is "Stories from Puglia: Two Californians in Southern Italy." Amazon US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRKMKPWF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_X2WRQ3PTG2ZDD7AVF6GH And also, on Amazon Italy: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/1913680649/ref=dbs_a_def_rwt_bibl_vppi_i0 .