Our Second House in Tuscany: Before and After

It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way.

We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life!

We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year).

As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing.

Step 1: This week let's explore the before and after of the second house we purchased in Tuscany, in Santa Fiora.

Step 2: Our first house in Italy. Arcidosso. As readers of this blog know, the first house we purchased in Italy was in the town of Arcidosso, in southern Tuscany. The house was built in the 15th century (depending on who you asked) and was full of charm. We decided to upgrade it, adding a second bathroom, new kitchen, double pane windows, washer/dryer and all new appliances. At the same time, we strove to keep the original charm: wood beam ceilings, rock walls, terra cotta floors. (see blog on the before and after of our Aricodosso house here). 

During the renovation of the Arcidosso house

We were pleased with the way it turned out. At its completion, almost as a dare, my partner suggested we put it on the market to see if there was any interest. If there was, we could purchase a larger house and start the renovation process all over.

Though I resisted at first, I relented, and we put it on the market. About three weeks later we got an offer and sold the home to an American couple who loved it.

We then used the money from that sale to purchase a house in the village next door which was owned by our contractor, who had already started renovating it.

Step 3: Our second house in Italy. Santa Fiora. Our contractor had purchased a condo in a 6 unit 1950s building in the welcoming town of Santa Fiora; his original idea was to renovate it and move in with his family. But for various reasons, he abandoned that idea and purchased a larger house nearby.

When we looked at the house, it was already stripped down. Unlike the Arcidosso house, which was full of charm but presented the challenge of upgrading a historical property from the 1500s, this house was basically a cement box, cleared to its bare bones. The challenge here would be to complete the house, give it some character, add a second bathroom and not blow our budget.

Step 4: The area and the building. When one lives in the historical center of a town or city, sometimes convenience is sacrificed for charm. Parking far away and lugging groceries or water, paying extra for deliveries of furniture or larger items, wore on us after awhile. Dealing with the quirks that older properties always carry, whether it be roof, plumbing or electrical issues, took their toll too. We reached the point where we were ready to trade some charm for convenience.

Santa Fiora has the advantage that both the historical and newer areas of the town are lovely, and most of the town is supplied by geothermal heating (discussed below). The part of town we are in is less than a ten minute walk from the historical center, with all its charm, and yet is in the newer part, about a five minute walk to the supermarket and other amenities. Plus there is parking in front and behind our building. The roof has recently been replaced and the facade refinished. Though not architecturally significant, the building is nice, newly painted and well kept up.

Our neighbors are amazing and can't do enough for us. In fact, the other day one of them said, "Get some of your friends to move to Santa Fiora too!"

Condominium fees in our area are much lower than in California, and are well worth the peace of mind that the building is being taken care of while we are not here.

Step 5: Geothermal heating. Santa Fiora is one of the few towns in our area connected to the geothermal district heating system, which is a real advantage. I wrote another blog explaining how geothermal energy works (see post here), but  here is the short version: hot water from a geothermal plant beneath Monte Amiata circulates through underground pipes and transfers heat to homes through a heat exchanger. It is efficient, renewable, and the costs are generally lower and more stable than conventional heating. We have ample heat and hot water without the bills that usually come with them.

Step 6: The before. When we walked into the house in Santa Fiora, the only thing that was in place was the front door and the tile floors. Everything else had to be done.

Our first decision had to be: what type of a home did we want? Did we want to try to imitate the historical charm that our first house had? But that could mean fake wood ceilings and beams and imitation stone. That wouldn't work.

But the house was sterile as is. How could we give it character?

In the end we decided to reach into two worlds: our Californian roots, where Palm Springs midcentury modern architecture is dominant, and our Tuscan life, with its wood floors and wide windows opening onto the countryside.

The furnishings, lighting and wall art we chose echo a vintage feel, with framed travel posters from Palm Springs and Italy, and light fixtures that are more of another era than this one. We got used to the dark tile flooring that resembles wood, but broke it up with lighter carpets.

What is special about this house is the light; unlike homes in the historical center, which tend to have smaller windows, this home faces the soccer field in the back and the beautiful town in the front, with large windows bringing in so much light from both sides.

Living room: Before and after

Step 7: The after. We are not yet in the 100% after phase, since we still have some projects to do and some artwork to decide on but we are almost there.

We made the most of every space, and the washer/dryer combo sits on wheels within the utility area that houses the geothermal system components. We have three work areas: a desk in the den, the dining room table next to the window facing the soccer field, and the living room facing the TV. So when one or both of us has work to do on the computer, there are choices.

Before and after: the den (with a new second bathroom)

The house feels open and spacious. Living in a historical center was a great experience for us and we learned a lot, but we realize that this is a better fit — a place where we can introduce our own charm in a home that works for us day to day: parking nearby, a more modern building, none of the issues an older property brings.

Step 8: Next steps. Now we are finishing the house and settling in, developing relationships with our neighbors and locals, and adjusting to living in Santa Fiora and beyond. The next steps include putting healthy routines in place — gym, hiking, keeping active, eating clean — and taking one day at a time.

Before and after: kitchen

Insights: Upgrading the house in Arcidosso to fit the needs of two Californians, while respecting and highlighting its charm, was the right move for us and for the house. Finding a way to express where we came from and where we are now in the Santa Fiora house, with references to California vintage and our Tuscan adventure, seemed the best way to express the uniqueness of the house with that of our lives. We also learned something about ourselves in the process: living in a historical center was a chapter worth having, but knowing when a chapter is over is just as important as living it fully.

A few more before and after photos:

Main bedroom; before and after

Before and after: main bathroom

More next time.

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