Exploring the History of the Abbey in Abbadia San Salvatore, Tuscany

PART 164 It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way.

We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life!

We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year).

Step 1: As we explore areas and towns in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing.

This week, let's explore the ancient Abbey in Abbadia San Salvatore in Tuscany

Step 2: History and Experience

We had visited the Abbey at Abbadia San Salvatore before, but only briefly. Without the historical context, we hadn't fully grasped what we were seeing. So when Sandro, an excellent realtor and good friend, invited us on a guided tour with a local historian, we eagerly accepted.

The Abbey sits at the edge of the town's historical center. Our guide was already waiting when we arrived—young, knowledgeable, energetic. After a warm welcome and some small talk about California, we began the tour. What followed brought the stones alive.

It started with a tree.

Step 3: Origins

In 743, King Ratchis of the Lombards reported having a vision of Christ above a white fir tree. He ordered a monastery built on the site to commemorate it. The Abbey was constructed around the tree itself, and the stone opening from which it emerged is still visible today. A painting in the right transept's side chapel depicts this founding moment.

The location proved strategically important. It sat near the Via Francigena, the major pilgrimage route from Canterbury to Rome, and the steady flow of pilgrims and merchants led to settlements growing up around the Abbey.

Step 4: Some history

The Abbey is a significant historic monument with a rich and complex history. Adjacent to the church is a mysterious crypt featuring 32 unique columns of unknown origin (more information below).

The Abbey of San Salvatore underwent renovations in 1035, with additional restorations occurring in the 1930s and 1970s.

The interior of the Abbey follows a classic Latin cross layout with a single nave. In the two transepts of the cross, there are two chapels: the Chapel of the Madonna della Pieve on the left and the Chapel of the Holy Savior on the right.

Notable works within the church include:

1. A polychrome wooden crucifix from the late 12th century.

2. A painting depicting the Legend of Duke Ratchis (1652-1653) by Francesco Nasini.

3. A painting representing the Martyrdom of Saint Bartholomew (1694) by Francesco Nasini.

Older than the church, the crypt likely dates back to the 7th century. It features thirty-two columns adorned with beautifully crafted capitals. These unique capitals showcase various designs, including animals, plants, and geometric patterns.

For nearly a thousand years, the Abbey housed the Codex Amiatinus, also known as the Amiatina Bible, the oldest manuscript copy of the Bible in Latin.

A museum preserves and displays liturgical furnishings from the Abbey and nearby churches in the cloister. One significant artifact is the reliquary bust of St. Mark the Pope, along with several reliquaries containing relics of other saints, which can be viewed up close.

Step 5: Cool things.

The crypt is the coolest feature of the Abbey. Each column is unique—human figures, natural motifs, and one carved with the mysterious "knot without beginning or end." Beyond the architecture, the space carries a palpable sense of sacredness.

What struck me most was the round hole in the ceiling where the fir tree once grew. The monks built the entire monastery around it, preserving the legend in stone. The tree is long gone, but its absence feels almost as powerful as its presence must have been.

Upstairs in the church, I found myself drawn to the 12th-century crucifix. Our guide pointed out something I might have missed: "Note that this is not a suffering Christ but a triumphant one. In fact, this is one of the very first depictions of Christ triumphant on the cross that we have." Once he said it, I couldn't unsee it—the peacefulness in Christ's expression, the calm instead of agony.

Insights.

We often drive to distant corners of Tuscany and beyond, chasing historical and cultural sites. But this visit reminded us that some of the richest experiences are right in our backyard. With a guide's help, we discovered the story behind the stones—and that's what gives a place like the Abbey its meaning.

More next time.

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