Do I need to be afraid of driving in Italy?

PART 143: It might be interesting to share how we pulled off living in Italy for part of the year. I will post some steps and what we are learning along the way.

We love every minute of it, and what was once a dream is our life!

We live in Tuscany in the Fall, then back again in the Spring, and in California for the rest of the time (in a previous blog, I explained why we live in Italy only part of the year).

Step 1: As we explore areas in Italy, we discover some gems worth sharing. Some are well-known tourist magnets, and others are lesser-known but always amazing. 

This week, let's explore whether I should be afraid to drive in Italy.

Step 2: I was afraid

The first time I drove in Italy was in Rome during the 1980s, and it was not the best experience. Two things stand out: First, it took me an hour to travel just half a mile because I didn't yet know how to drive assertively, and everyone kept cutting me off. Second, when I was nearly out of gas and pulled into a gas station on a Saturday afternoon, I discovered it was closed and there was no auto-pay system available.

After that experience, I didn't drive in Italy for over 20 years. I constantly told myself that I couldn't do it—that it was too complicated and that I wasn't aggressive enough behind the wheel. I feared that I would get into a terrible accident and bleed to death and die.

However, as our plan to establish a life in Italy developed, I realized that not driving in Italy would really hold me back and limit my experience.

Step 3: The first time I tried

A few years ago, after my partner returned to the U.S. and I stayed in Italy for a few more weeks, I decided to explore Sardinia and give driving in Italy another try. I thought that driving in Sardinia would be easier than in other areas, and I wanted to see if I could regain my confidence behind the wheel.

I stayed in Cagliari, where my Airbnb host assured me there was plenty of street parking available.

When I picked up my rental car, I felt nervous, especially since it had a manual transmission. However, within just a few minutes, driving began to feel natural again—almost as if I were back in California. My confidence grew over the next few days, and by the time I left Sardinia, I knew I could drive in Italy with assurance.

Step 4: The clutch

Renting a car in Italy with an automatic transmission can be significantly more expensive than opting for a manual one, so I decided to give it a try in Sardinia. The last time I drove a stick shift was in high school, so I was nervous before I picked up the car.

When I got into the car in Cagliari, my skills at driving a manual transmission came back to me almost immediately. It was eerie how quickly I remembered it; I even recalled that I had preferred driving a stick shift during my youth. It gave me a greater sense of control over the car.

Driving a manual transmission wasn't very challenging, and fortunately, I had a relatively traffic-free area in Sardinia to practice in.

Many people develop an unnecessary fear of driving a manual transmission car, but it's actually relatively easy to learn how to drive one. I recommend that anyone considering a trip to Italy rent a stick shift car in their home country first, especially if they have never driven one before. It's simple to pick up! Additionally, those who have driven a manual car in the past will find it even easier to relearn.

Step 5: Another issue: Traffic cameras

We thought we were safe from speeding tickets in Italy as long as we drove with the flow of traffic, but that turned out to be a false belief.

Six months after one of our trips to Italy, we received a strange-looking letter written in Italian. It informed us that we had been caught speeding on our way to the Rome airport and were required to pay a fine of a couple of hundred euros. The longer we delayed paying, the more the cost would increase.

During that trip, we had been careful to keep up with the traffic flow without paying much attention to our speedometer, which turned out to be a mistake.

In recent years, we've noticed a significant increase in the number of speed cameras in Italy.

Going with the flow of traffic is no assurance that one is following the speed limits.

Regardless of traffic flow, we now always adhere to the posted speed limits--which can continuously change on the same road or highway. Some speed cameras are fake — locals seem to know which ones are not real — but others capture photos of speeding vehicles, and you might not find out about a ticket until months later.

It's best to follow the speed limits posted on signs or displayed on Google Maps.

Step 6: Will the police stop me?

We've all seen groups of police officers waving down drivers, but we have never been stopped. "Could it be because they see we are foreigners?" I asked my partner, who shrugged in response.

Since we have never been stopped, I can't provide a firsthand account, but I can say that we are prepared. We keep the car's paperwork in the glove compartment and always carry our regular and international driver's licenses when driving. I also have a photo of my passport on my phone, as well as a photo of my international driver's license.

If we are ever stopped, we hope that we have all the necessary paperwork that the police might be looking for.

Step 7: Toll booths

When I first started driving in Italy, toll booths freaked me out. I would panic as I tried to steer into the credit card lane while searching for my wallet. However, now I glide through them like a pro. Grabbing a ticket or tapping my credit card is a breeze, and I no longer stress about finding change or bills.

Now, toll booths are not a big deal for me, and I can navigate them like a local driver.

So can you! It just takes practice.

Step 8: Navigating cities

I asked my partner to take the wheel when we drove to Rome for Easter. We found a parking garage near the Vatican that allowed us to avoid the ZTL (traffic-restricted) zones, but was still in the middle of a busy area.

My partner agreed to drive, as he enjoys it, and we set off for Rome. We took an alternative route along the coast, passing through Grosseto, which helped us avoid the twists and turns that Google Maps usually leads us through our mountainous area.

Driving in Rome—or any major European city—requires agility and quick decision-making, but I just wanted to relax this time.

We arrived at the parking garage without any incidents and stayed in Rome for a few days before returning on a Monday. On the return, the navigator guided us through some crowded streets in Trastevere and up steep hills. At one point, a taxi suddenly lurched in front of us, leaving us at a standstill in an intersection. The taxi driver cursed at us, acting like it was our fault, while a passerby shouted for us to back up. We waited a few minutes, hoping the taxi would let us pass, but he continued waving his arms. Even though we had the right of way, we decided to back up and let him go around before proceeding.

Driving in a busy European city can be stressful, so I'm happy to let my partner take the wheel when he wants to. However, I now feel confident in my own driving abilities because I've become accustomed to driving in other areas.

Step 9: Going the wrong way in Assisi

We drove to Assisi and parked in one of the underground garages near the historical center. We spent a few days there during Christmas and had a fantastic time; parking was easy since we had reserved it in advance.

On the day we were leaving, we needed to get to the other side of the city from our parking spot to reach the main road out of town. The logical route was to exit the parking structure, go downhill out of the historical center, and take the road around the base of Assisi to start our journey to the next destination. Simple enough. So, we entered our destination into Google Maps, exited the garage, and followed its directions.

I was relieved that my partner was driving as Google Maps began to lead us in circles, seemingly unable to navigate the medieval twisty streets. At one point, it instructed us to turn right onto a set of steep stone stairs heading downward. We managed to avoid that near-disaster and continued straight. Next, we found ourselves on a very narrow cobblestone street, with a car approaching us from the opposite direction. We realized we were going the wrong way on a one-way street! Fortunately, we were able to back up, but that meant retracing our steps a long way.

At that point, we turned off Google Maps and relied on our instincts to navigate wider streets downhill and out of Assisi.

The lesson learned: try to avoid bringing a car into historical centers, or if that's not possible, ensure you have a clear sense of direction and don't solely rely on Google Maps. Reading signs and using common sense helped us find the road we needed.

Step 10: Driving styles: Tuscany and Puglia

While it is certainly possible to live in Italy without a car, I believe that having a car is essential in Tuscany. Whether you're visiting the Renaissance city of Pienza, the wine region of Montalcino, or the iconic town of Montepulciano, you'll find that there are no train tracks crisscrossing this region, making a car necessary for exploration.

The Val d'Orcia, which showcases the beauty of rural Tuscany, is primarily accessible by driving. I was grateful to have overcome much of my fear of driving in Italy by the time we moved to Tuscany; driving through its iconic hills and navigating to historical towns is not particularly challenging. If I can do it, so can you!

After living in Puglia, we moved to Tuscany. Let's examine some of the various driving styles.

I want to note that my observations below are based solely on our experiences. Others may have different perspectives and experiences.

Driving in Puglia:

In Puglia, there seems to be a driving style that aims to intimidate other drivers into stopping or yielding. This behavior appears common among drivers of all ages. For instance, while driving down the main street in our town, we often encountered cars at intersections trying to turn right onto our street. As we approached, these drivers frequently lurched forward slightly, hoping we would stop or pause to allow them to merge in front of us.

We learned to ignore this intimidation tactic and continue on our way.

Driving in Tuscany:

In Tuscany, we sometimes experience tailgating. Whether on a highway or a narrow mountain road, drivers will come up closely behind us, often just inches from our bumper, even when there's no way to let them pass on a winding road. My partner frequently remarks, "They're on my tail again." Our solution has been to find a safe spot to pull off the road, allowing them to pass so we can continue our journey stress-free.

Step 11: Fear vs. reason

There is a distinction between emotion and reason.

I was afraid to drive for years because I generalized my negative driving experience from one day in Rome. It would be similar to driving in New York City and then being afraid to drive down a highway in Kansas.

There are various driving situations: some I am comfortable with, while others make me uneasy. However, overcoming my universal fear of driving in Italy has been necessary to access the country and fully enjoy our experience living here.

Step 12: Next step

My next steps include improving my driving skills in towns in Italy, especially in Tuscany, and adopting a more relaxed driving style that stays calm in response to the diverse driving habits we encounter. I have made progress and can now drive in many areas of Italy without concerns, but I still feel nervous about driving in cities or historical towns. I also want to focus on overcoming these fears.

What is your experience of driving in Italy?

Please see related blog about updates on long term rental of a car in Italy. Link is here.

More next time.

My new novel is on sale now for $2.99! "Onward: A Life on a Sailboat" is a tale that will draw the reader to the Amalfi coast, the deserts of Algeria, the south of France, and beyond. https://a.co/d/3hhJkxE

Amazon Italy- my book "Lei mi ha sedotto. Una storia d'amore con Roma": https://amzn.eu/d/13nuZCL.